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YaYa is on such a non-descript block of Van Ness that I've driven
by many times over the years without noticing it. It's long been
on my "to go to" list since hearing it is a rare Middle Eastern
haven specializing in Mesopotamian recipes. I was delighted to find it
even better than I'd heard: a truly unique Iraqi food experience in San
Francisco.
Entering the well cared for restaurant on a Saturday night sets the
mood with blue lamps, gold tinged walls (including a giant mural) and
comfortable service. The decor is not hip or striking so much as
pleasant, subdued. Much to my delight, the noise factor was ideal:
quiet, easy to talk, lingering encouraged. None of this was hindered
by affordable wines (note: no full bar, only wine and beer). Paired
with our appetizers, the evening was already a success!
We started with what is a traditional Iraqi snack, Kelecha, converted
by the chef into ravioli (how I'd love to try the original incarnation!) The
ravioli is stuffed with dates, cardamom, cinnamon, in a creamy, perfectly
unsweetened yogurt sauce topped with walnuts and parmesan cheese. All
of us, my husband and friends, peppered our too few bites of these pockets
of goodness with such exclamations as, "Wow! So different! What
flavor! Like dessert!"
Our other starter was the Mezze
Platter served with warm pita, tabouleh
and three kinds of dips: the standard hummus was "goosed up" with
fresh herbs and dubbed "California Hummus"; Mama Ghanooge,
a smoky blend of eggplant, garlic, pomegranate and tahini; and finally,
Hudhud Ghanooge was an indescribably tasty blend of turnips, tahini and
herbs (trust me, it's better than it sounds!)
The entrées are easily shared between two - especially after appetizers. Entrees
are served in pleasing trios, allowing for a range of flavors, with "Nomad" ("Bedouin" in
Arabic) monikers. Each is served with a salad of romaine, diced cucumber,
tomato and radish in sumac and rose water vinaigrette (the dressing was
subtle and fresh, with merely a hint of rose water).
My husband and I chose The Nomad, a substantial, mouth-pleasing trio. First,
Perdaplow - phyllo stuffed with shredded chicken, saffron rice, almonds,
golden raisins, and cardamom swimming in a bright, sweet raspberry-cinnamon
sauce; Kuzi - phyllo-covered shredded lamb shank, rice, almonds, golden
raisins, allspice, cinnamon, and ginger in a savory/sweet pomegranate-rosemary
sauce; finally, Makhlama - an Iraqi mashed potato mound flavored with
curry and vegetables.
Our friends ordered the Ancient Nomad, serving three types of Kebe, which
the menu describes as "created in 612 B.C. to celebrate the Festival
of Nineveh". Mosul Kebe - served on grilled zucchini, is a breaded
wheat and beef shell stuffed with diced lamb, almonds, golden raisins,
spiced with nutmeg, cinnamon, and allspice in a tomato curry sauce. Kubet
Basra - a tumeric rice shell filled with chicken, seasoned with thyme,
sesame seed, sumac. Finally, Kubet Baghdad - a paprika bulgur (wheat)
shell crammed with beef, dates, rice and cardamom in a yogurt sauce with
eggplant.
An adventure in taste, YaYa took me on a journey from start to finish. On
top of superb food unlike any I've had at other Middle Eastern restaurants,
the space is quiet and relaxed on a weekend. I could hear my friends
talk and linger over our dinner, enjoying a night that was truly a respite
from demanding life.
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