Valentine's

I think Valentines as we know it is lame, with true love reduced to teddy bears, cherubs, bad chocolates… and overcrowded restaurants with ridiculously costly “special” menus that have become synonymous with a Valentine’s date. So if you ask me, I would avoid going out that night at all. But I just might go out some other time this month to celebrate love in my own way: peaceably, over superb food and wine, maybe at one of these fine establishments:

• Café Jacqueline

Café Jacqueline: 1454 Grant Avenue (between Green and Union Streets), 415-981-5565, Wed-Sun 5:30-11pm - Yes, you will eat soufflé for dinner AND dessert - and wait about an hour for each soufflé… but could you ask for a better way to go? Since lingering is (or should be) the point, this place, with simple, candlelit environs, will force you to do just that. Jacqueline herself handcrafts each soufflé until they come out piping-hot perfection. All are for sharing, more than large enough for two. Savory soufflés include Spinach & Gruyere or White Corn, Ginger & Garlic ($35 range). Splurge for Crab or Lobster versions (around $55). Dessert brings more decadence with Key Lime, Strawberry and, of course, Chocolate soufflés, among others. Don’t come here for anything but soufflé… the reason for Café Jacqueline’s long existence.

• Firefly

Firefly: (www.fireflyrestaurant.com) – Make reservations now at this perennial classic. Though the menu changes regularly (but for their famed gourmet Fried Chicken and Buttermilk Biscuits), after dozens of visits over the years, I’ve never had a bad dish (entrees range from $16-$25). The ultimate neighborhood restaurant, Firefly is worth visiting any time and books up fast. Service is warm and accommodating, as are the cozy dining rooms, ideal for intimate conversation over the best in upscale comfort food. Save room for dessert!

• Bix

Bix: (www.bixrestaurant.com) - For a classic vibe of the 1930’s Supper Club kind (including live jazz most evenings), Bix offers swanky digs off a Financial District alley for added mystique. Make sure to reserve an upstairs table in the high-ceilinged room overlooking the action below. Cocktails are a focus with a menu offering classic American fare (first courses from $9.95-$15.75; entrees from $19.75-$39.50). Though I think it’s definitely overpriced, especially compared to other options in this range, their food is solid to great and the speakeasy vibe makes it a romantic rendezvous.

• worthy mention

worthy mention: I was going to recommend glowingly intimate Clementine (www.clementinesf.com), until I heard it was just sold to nearby Chapeau! and will be closed a few weeks for renovations. I hope they don’t greatly alter the interior as it’s one of the most romantic bistros in the city, though no worries about the food staying superb with Chapeau’s chef at the helm.