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A New England seafood gem in my favorite part of New York, the West
Village, Pearl’s Oyster Bar is an impeccable seafood stop and one
of New York’s most rewarding neighborhood finds.
The cozy, white-walled space feels distinctly New England. Laid-back
service is appealing in a city that can at times deliver stuffy or
snooty service, with food impeccable in freshness and taste. This is
the consummate seafood experience I’ve had in New York thus far (nearby Mary’s
Fish Camp is a delightful, neighborhood spot of similar ethos; while the classic
NY scene of underground Grand Central Oyster Bar is hard to beat, the food
at Pearl’s is a slight step above the former and clearly superior
to the latter).
My best friend, a New Yorker through and through, shared a leisurely afternoon
with me over drinks and a giant bowl of mussels. Straight from Prince Edward
Island, she and I knew the land of L.M. Montgomery produced good things,
yet I’ve eaten PEI mussels and oysters before and never quite this
juicy, plump, lacking in “fishy” taste, just fresh and warm.
Cooked in a brilliant wine and mustard cream sauce, I found myself sopping
every drop up with bread.
The clam chowder was not necessarily the finest I’ve tasted, though
it held its own with savory, milky goodness, large chunks of clam and the
nice, smoky touch of bacon.
Pearl’s renowned lobster roll? Flawless. From the buttery, slightly
crispy bun to the plump, mayo-coated lobster. I’ve not had the
privilege (yet) of eating a lobster roll in Maine but heard many say
this one tastes of Maine, which means you get a perfectly balanced roll
that is comfort food, freshness of the sea and a fine lobster meal all
in one.
The one clear down side is price. In typical New York fashion, everything
costs more than almost anywhere else in the US. While I typically see
lobster rolls for around $15 in San Francisco, Pearl’s roll was
$25 … for lunch! Definitely a pricey sandwich. The mussels were
a reasonable $10 for a hearty bowl full, so I found it evened out somewhat.
Just be prepared should you order some of the prime menu items like the
lobster roll.
Rebecca Charles, who opened Pearl’s in 1997, spent much time in
Maine learning the art of this type of New England seafood cooking. After
spending two years planning towards opening an upscale seafood restaurant,
a visit to San Francisco’s one-of-a-kind Swan
Oyster Depot, one
of my all-time favorites serving the ultimate fresh crab and amazing
chowder, she was inspired, changing her entire plan to open a small,
more low key, neighborhood place, while still holding a high standard
of impeccably prepared seafood.
New England comes to New York… and we are grateful.
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