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This IssueOn the TownThe EstablishedImbiberWandering Traveler
 
 
  outer mission  
Tiki Time
 
           
   

I’ll admit it: I have a weird fondness for all things Tiki – especially in a 1960’s, paper umbrellas in drinks, “Blue Hawaii” sort of way. Though Tiki-themed bars can be cheesy, the more over the top the better, in my book, for a true island experience.

Though we are surrounded by water here in this spectacular city of mine, the chill breezes or fog can be more conducive to a cozy pub or warm Irish coffee than Hawaiian luau. Yet in the greatest cities of the world, one can “escape” to many worlds via something as simple as an authentic bar or restaurant and SF is no exception.

I’ll share my favorite Bay Area spots to sip a Piña Colada and almost hear bright blue waves lapping outside the door. There’s the usual worldwide or nationwide chains such as Trader Vic’s (originally birthed in the Bay Area in Oakland) and Roy’s. SF’s Trader Vic’s has great Tiki-influenced décor (Roy’s does not), however, it has entirely sub-par food at overly high prices. Roy’s is likewise overpriced but serves some tasty dishes. Both make good drinks (Roy's Original Hawaiian Martini is recommended), but, again, at a premium.

Let me show you a better way…


 
   

Neighborhood: Alameda (East Bay)
1304 Lincoln Avenue (at Sherman Street)
Alameda, CA 94501
(510) 749-0332

www.forbiddenislandalameda.com

Hours:
Tuesday-Thursday 5pm-12am
Friday-Saturday 5pm-2am
Sunday 3pm-10pm

   
   

My number one choice for getting my Tiki fix is not in San Francisco proper, but rather on the island of Alameda, parallel to Oakland in the East Bay. Walking up to Forbidden Island Tiki Lounge, I wondered if this odd suburban structure in the midst of LA-reminiscent 1960’s apartment complexes and homes could actually be worth a visit?

Walking inside I was met with a glow of dim lighting and a TV behind the bar playing “Blue Hawaii”. They had me at “aloha”. One of my favorite Elvis movies, inane as it is, it set the tone of the place.

The room is narrow and hung with all kinds of flowers, bananas, blowfish lamps and dollar bills (Forbidden Island’s nod to a tradition apparently started in WWII when soldiers would leave a dollar bill at their local bar to pay for their drink when they came back from the war). Bamboo chairs and intriguing wood booths under bamboo huts line one side of the room, while the bar lines the other. A charming patio with palm leaf umbrellas and torches sits behind the bar in the parking lot, ideal on warm nights (though it closes at 9pm due to surrounding residential properties).

The spirit is festive on weekends but not obnoxious. There’s a buzz but it’s not so loud that you can’t talk comfortably. The music selection ideally encompasses 1950’s and 60’s tunes, though not all obvious. Hawaiian themed music is at a minimum, though I wouldn’t mind more of it. I’m eager to go back for events such as the last Thursday of the month Church of Sinatra night, or the last Sunday of the month for 2pm rum and cigars on the patio (my husband will like that one!)

Though I’ve seen a grouchy bartender or two on busy weekend nights, I’ve also had impeccable service from a vivacious woman dressed in a bright red, flowered sun dress with a flower in her hair (a get-up I’d wear myself).

My favorite Forbidden Island night was after picking up my brother-in-law, Chicken Man (he raises exotic chickens in the implausible sprawl of Orange County), from the Oakland airport. Chicken Man and my husband, The Renaissance Man, were both giddy over a rating system on the menu noting strength of drinks and were trying to outdo each other in their manly appraisal of what level they could withstand. Even more fun was had with names of drinks; they were tempted to try an array of spicy Pirate Grogs. Rum tasting flights: another intriguing option.

In the end, The Renaissance Man ordered a refreshingly perfect Monkeypod, a rum based cocktail with just the right blend of tamarind, coconut and lime.

I had “dessert in a drink” with the lush Banana Mamacow, like a rich banana milkshake laced with silver rum and coconut, brightly decorated with an umbrella. Perfection.

Our peppy server gave us the tip of the month when she mentioned a drink not on the menu known as Señor Amor. “The bartenders would kill me if they knew I was telling you about this one on a busy night”, she confided. “It takes about ten minutes to make due to the extra special whipping needed to make the perfect layer of cream over the top. It’s really indescribable.”

I don’t know if she just liked the cut of Chicken Man’s jib or felt he was the sort of chap to appreciate this insider drink (which apparently is ok to order on slower nights), but he was the lucky one to possess this truly indescribably martini, even as we loved our own drinks. Of course we stole as many sips of Señor Amor as we dared. I WISH I could tell you what was in it - such a thrilling cocktail: not too sweet, but creamy and potent. It almost felt like taking a flavorful, luxuriant bath.

One tip: avoid the food (bar bites and appetizers). Even basics, like sweet potato fries, are mushy and bland, while ketchup was generic crappy tomato and sugar paste in two little packets that barely served the portion of fries (more never came when we asked). Moral of that story is: eat elsewhere. Come here for the drinks and atmosphere. The drinks are some of the most appetizing I’ve had at any bar, and they pride themselves on hand-squeezed-on-the-premises juices and fresh drinks.

It felt as if we’d stumbled across an out-of-the-way island treasure. Forbidden did the Tiki theme right: not half-hearted or hinting at, but over the top and all the way. A night here feels like a kitschy, welcoming party you want to linger at all night.

Next month, I’ll give you a few more Tiki spots in the Bay Area and San Francisco when you’re not able to make it to Alameda… but if you can, you’ll be glad you did.

   
   
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