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This IssueOn the TownThe EstablishedImbiberWandering Traveler
 
Orange County
         
   

Orange County – where I grew up happily during my elementary school years, and where I returned at age 18 (after high school years in New Jersey) and spent my early twenties. It’s a sea of glorified suburbs, an extension of Los Angeles, an endless mesh of freeways and strip malls lacking in character. But there are gems inherent in that sea and some of its highlights are legendary (Disneyland, for example), and exemplary beach towns (like the cliffs and rocks of Laguna Beach, where I was married).

Food is another story. Chain restaurants rule in ‘the OC’ and many get more excited waiting two hours to eat at the Cheesecake Factory than to try a new cuisine, if it can even be found in its best form. One must wade through overhyped, overpriced (OC ain’t cheap!) supposed ‘hot spots’ to find what ends up just being an average SF or NY meal at best. Tacos are an exception (fish tacos, my favorite, are well done many places) and a few stalwarts (such as seafood at the Crab Cooker) may not lead in innovation but remain destinations over the years.

This time around, I share two OC spots (“oldies but goodies”, to quote a lame but accurate phrase) that helped fill the void for a funky, unique environment with good food or drink in the years I lived there, and even still when I visit.

   
   

Memphis
201 N. Broadway (in the Artists’ Village)
Santa Ana, CA 92701
(714) 564-1064

OR
2920 Bristol Street (next to the LAB Anti-Mall)
Costa Mesa, CA 92626
(714) 432-7685

http://memphiscafe.com
Hours:
Weekend Brunch, Lunch & Dinner: check website for hours

Memphis 1    
   

When one wants what might be an average meal in a big city, one that is hip but casual, serving a specific cuisine with a modern touch, Memphis is a local OC chain that delivers (with two locations: Santa Ana and Costa Mesa). It may not rock your taste buds, but it’s a satisfying Southern-comfort-food-via-California joint with flair beyond the chain restaurant world. The logo itself is delightfully retro 1960’s kitsch, and the décor a modern/1960’s fusion.

Zuni Frybread has long been a favorite appetizer: flatbread with a white corn salsa, pepperjack cheese and sage pesto. A winning combo. Salads are fresh and lunch time sandwiches filling. The BBQ Soul Burger is large and juicy. Cornmeal-fried Catfish and Fried Chicken entrees (sides include hush puppies and collard greens) are two entrée highlights.

Southern Soul Food with a California touch is lacking almost anywhere else in the area, so Memphis holds a unique spot. Their cocktails are good (the Mint Julep is made with Maker’s Mark Bourbon; the Watermelon Martini is a disappointment), and they serve two quality coffees: Deidrich’s for a cup of coffee or Illy (one of Italy’s best) for cappuccinos, espressos and the like.

Its fun for a group and the Costa Mesa location has a ‘60’s backyard patio or Santa Ana’s sidewalk tables for those ideally warm So. Cal. Summer nights.

   
   
   
   

Gypsy Den
125 N. Broadway Avenue (in the Artists’ Village)
Santa Ana, CA 92701
(714) 835-8840

Hours:
Monday-Friday 7:30am-10pm (or 11pm on Friday)
Saturday 8am-11pm
Sunday 8am-9pm

OR

2930 Bristol Street (in the LAB Anti-Mall)
Costa Mesa, CA 92626
(714) 549-7012

Hours:
Monday-Friday 7:30am-11pm (or 12am on Friday)
Saturday 8am-12am
Sunday 8am-11pm


www.gypsyden.com

   
   

Next to both Memphis locations is a two location OC café, Gypsy Den, whose food is mediocre (or worse), but which I go to as a cafe for its personality and decent coffee any time of the day… a thankfully bohemian alternative to Starbucks or Coffee Bean. It may not strike a city dweller used to such cafes as overly original, but for the OC, it’s a refreshing change of pace and an oasis for a poet-at-heart such as myself, who withers in the same blandness of chains.

The thrift store furniture, helter-skelter wall décor and garage sale art, musty bottles lining the shelves, create a Boho feel that promote lingering over coffee, a book or long conversation with a good friend.

   
   
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