“You must have been warned against letting the golden hours slip by… but some of them are golden only because we let them slip.” – J.M. Barrie

It’s February… a month that will take me to Kentucky, Denver, and Monterey. Meanwhile, I am grateful to be right here at home in San Francisco, savoring its endless treasures.

In Around the Bay, I revisit one of the Bay Area’s best fine dining splurges in Palo Alto.

Imbiber sips just released Concannon Irish Whiskey over an Old World boxing match and an Irish breakfast in Livermore.

On the Town highlights this year’s Science of Cocktails at the Exploratorium, including bourbon finished in a barrel used to age a Manhattan cocktail.

See Bordeaux through the faces of its winemakers and chateaux, the first in my Wandering Traveler Bordeaux series.

I’d love your feedback on any spots visited from my site. As your personal concierge who tells it to you like a good friend would, I also create personalized itineraries: trips, meals, explorations (under “Services“).

Let me guide you to the perfect spot,

Virginia

Follow me on Twitter: http://twitter.com/ThePerfectSpot

Recent entries in my Bay Guardian column:
Palo Alto high at fine dining destination, Baume
3 New & Notable Cheap Eats Spots
Barrel Aged Beauties, from genever to rye

**Unless otherwise noted, all photos by Virginia Miller**

Experimentation: alive & well
at BAUME, Palo Alto

There are meals that live on in memory: a diorama of conversation, heartwarming food, and that misty glow from a fine bottle of wine. Then there are the game changers, meals that are an elaborate tapestry, weaving complex threads of creativity into an unexpected whole. True: experimentation is useless if it is not also delicious. But if the food is as impacting to the taste buds as to the eye, it borders on art.

Baume (pronounced “bo-meh”) vies for the latter category at a level not seen enough in the Bay Area. Having lived in numerous parts of the country, including near major food cities (New York and Los Angeles), and ever eating my way across the globe, it’s easy to list San Francisco as one of the world’s great food cities. We breathe food from our pores, the quality of ingredients and passion for good cooking as high as you’ll see anywhere… and has been for decades.

Here I never suffer for impeccable presentation, ethnic authenticity, or heartwarming perfection. Where I find myself hunting for inspiration is in the realm of, for lack of a better term,  molecular experimentation? Molecular gastronomy has been deemed by many as “out” (or according to Britain’s seminal chef Heston Blumenthal, “dead”), a “trend” that watched its glory days die with the closing of legendary El Bulli. But if, as Thomas Keller posits, the issue is in the terminology, since the ripple effect of Ferran Adria has so permeated restaurants everywhere as to become “standard”, then experimental cooking is far from irrelevant.

Though the Bay Area has pushed boundaries for decades, one finds countless perfect Neapolitan pizzas or whole animal menus here, but only a handful of molecular menus. Maybe it’s our fierce devotion to purity, our desire to be above pretense, our commitment to letting ingredients speak for themselves that makes the Bay Area somewhat skittish around fussy equipment, even as we played out sous vide and foams along with every other leading food city.

We have our masters (e.g. Manresa, Coi, Restaurant at Meadowood, Benu, the great French Laundry). We also claim that growing category of fine dining, molecular cooking in affordable, casual formats (AQ, Commonwealth), a godsend to those of us who want boundaries pushed but not under the weight of stuffiness or stratospheric costs.

The study of science and gastronomy has been greatly advanced by locals like Harold McGee and Elizabeth Cawdry Thomas. While we have made notable inroads historically and new ones of late, I wish for just a few more Alinea and Jose Andres’ The Bazaar-type restaurants on our varied culinary map.

Craving comfort and loathing pretension as much as anyone, I don’t want to see us shrink from boundary-pushing. There’s room for it all. With the “dumbing down” of fine dining everywhere in recent years, many fear appearing ostentatious. Hence, “upscale comfort food” has taken over formerly more creative menus ad nauseam. Such a climate makes moves like chef Dominique Crenn opening Atelier Crenn all the more bold.

Thankfully, Baume is not staying in the safe, comfort zone. Foams may be long over, but for an adventurous food lover, to sit down for three hours with merely a list of ingredients, nearly 20 bites and courses, is an exciting event.

Baume has become one of our best fine dining restaurants. It is artful, employing molecular processes alongside classic French technique. A list of ingredients like vadouvan, Calvados, kabocha, caviar, and like, tease but essentially give little intimation of what lies ahead.

Naming Baume one of 2010′s best new restaurant openings in both SF Guardian and the Perfect Spot, I found Chef Bruno Chemel’s vision inspiring, even as the restaurant was still discovering itself. Returning at the end of 2011, it is coming into its own. Prices reflect this “sense of self”. Formerly just over $100 per person, it’s now a whopping $168 without drink. Add on wine pairings and it’s $288 (or $368 if you desire the premium wine pairing). It’s one mighty expensive night out. But there are more courses than there were before, more intermezzos, bites, and delights at every turn. If you’re going to splurge, Baume is one of the more experimentally satisfying fine dining options in the Bay Area.

The setting is understated, modern, but still a little staid, even museum-like. Thankfully, intimacy and bright orange and brown tones keep it from being cold, with one small room of 4-5 tables and additional individual tables behind curtains. Service is seamless, though with this many courses, expect to see waitstaff often throughout the meal. I am always impressed when I can ask even a server filling my water about ingredients and all are well-versed on each dish. This level of care is crucial in a place like Baume. I’m glad to say their staff seem clued in on the vision.

Even a menu of expensive aperitifs (four, ranging from $15-28) is elevated since my last visit. A Baumetini ($18) is dramatically presented with sparkling sake poured over liquid nitrogen lilikoi/passion fruit “ice”, an icy haze erupting from the glass, while the taste is tart, intense, palate-cleansing.

On a white, indented ceramic block sits a round roll of fig pistachio “focaccia” – the bread course. Looking more akin to mochi, the warm, green roll perks up in yuzu glaze and salt flecks. Moving on to juicy beets and onions in panko crumbs with a potent shot of celery beet juice, it’s clear this meal won’t be typical.

In 2010, Chef Chemel’s most memorable dish was a 62 degree egg. This is the only dish I recognize from the year before, silky as ever, though presentation is different over lentils in a vermouth sabayon, topped with tiny sage leaves and toasted garlic bread crumbs.

Produce proves to be a realm where Chemel shines. A delicate Autumn salad is one of the most beautiful and finest tasting dishes. It combines bits of apple, pear, squash, and vivid red leaves with acorn wafers. The dish blossoms with a gorgeous pairing of 2005 Domaine des Baumard Clos du Papillion Savennieres from the Loire, a 100% Chenin Blanc that surprises with orchard fruit contrasted by mineral earthiness.

Other stand-out moments included the add-on course (yes, for even more money) of Alba white truffles from Piemonte, Italy, in season and available for a matter of days. They generously shaved a luxurious truffle over cauliflower tapioca risotto, pairing it with 2006 Morey-Coffinet Morgeot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru from Burgundy.

Fatty suckling pig in crispy skin is a winning main with braised endive and ginger sponge foam. Apple plays prominent  in both freeze-dried green apple slices and a sauce of balsamic Calvados (French apple brandy). A bright, acidic 1999 Heitz Cellars Trailside Vineyard Cabernet from Napa alternately displays a raisin richness reminiscent of port, making an ideal apple-pig companion.

Dessert comes in four parts, but it’s a liquid shot that leaves an impression: fizzy, young coconut water soda with a lychee float. After dessert, I was served house eggnog with nutmeg foam in an egg shell. Perfect for December, it’s a playfully refined statement to end a nearly three hour feast.

Additional courses:

- Caviar parfait with green apple, puffed rice, carrot, smoked creme fraiche, gold flecks
- Matsutake mushroom wasabi consomme with 2007 Chateau de Fonselette Blanc, Cotes-du-Rhone – surprisingly excellent pairing, bringing out sweet, mulled cider notes in wine
- Halibut in pumpkin scales with coconut vadouvan emulsion
- Lobster with vanilla coffee foam, lavender, mushroom, paired with 2009 Kistler Chardonnay Les Noisetiers, Sonoma Coast – wine is full bodied, with mineral, passion fruit notes
- Intermezzo: green apple sorbet over green apple sand with marjoram
- Grass-fed filet mignon with leek terrine, truffle jus, black shaved truffle, paired with 2007 Bernard Burgaud Cote Rotie, a Rhone Syrah with dry mouth feel, tart, earthy notes
- Cheese course: funky, earthy, French cow’s milk cheese, L’Ami du Chambertin served with grapes and frisee; creamy, earthy, raw sheep-cow’s milk cheese Il Menalat Robiola, Lombardia, Italy
- Dessert: Pink ruby red grapefruit mint gelee; a “Rocky Road” redux including vanilla orange marshmallow and liquid nitrogen-toasted walnuts; coconut passion fruit blanc mange with Madelienes on a bed of guava

FIGHTING IRISH:
The Launch of Concannon Irish Whiskey

An Irish whiskey with a Bay Area connection… Livermore, to be exact? It’s true. January saw the release of a brand new whiskey, not a common occurrence in Ireland. What better way to initiate this new release than with a Bon Vivants’ party?

My recent travails through Ireland, particularly exploring whiskey production in County Cork (from pot still beauties like Redbreast, to mass production Jameson), amplified my love for the smooth pleasures of Irish whiskey.

Cocktail and event gurus, the Bon Vivants throw some of the most memorable parties I’ve ever been to, and their Concannon Fighting Irish party was no exception. Think unmarked Mission warehouse, rousing, traditional Irish band, and two boxers pounding it out in a clandestine brawl for multiple rounds (yes, there was blood).

Meanwhile, pours of Concannon (which means “wisdom without compromise”) flowed neat, over hand-chipped ice, in Irish Coffees or punch. Filling up on corned beef sandwiches, were were a happy lot, transported to another time and place, to boxing matches of decades ago.

What about the whiskey? It’s smooth and supple as you’d expect an Irish whiskey to be, but not because it’s thrice distilled, like a number of popular Irish whiskeys. Concannon is actually twice distilled at Ireland’s Cooley Distillery by master blender, Noel Sweeney, who blends all Cooley whiskeys. I appreciate minimal distillations at it simply means more of the original flavors are left in the spirit rather than stripped out of it.

Made from locally harvested Spring barley and blended with French corn distilled in a column still (again, unusual for Irish whiskey), the whiskey is distilled in copper pot stills, then aged a minimum of 4 years in Heaven Hill bourbon casks.

Cooley Distillery is known for pushing Irish whiskey boundaries: they continue that tradition by finishing Concannon whiskey for four months in Concannon Vineyards‘ Heritage Petite Syrah barrels (the winery’s highest tier, award-winning wine). The whiskey is then bottled here in California.

After a rousing release party, I spent the next day in Livermore at Concannon Vineyards over Irish breakfast and Irish Coffees, made with Concannnon whiskey, naturally. We were joined by the winery’s 4th generation vintner, John Concannon, and Cooley’s global brand ambassador, John Cashman.

John Concannon regaled us with stories of the Concannon family’s immigration from Ireland to California, the winery’s history dating back to the 1800′s, and how they survived Prohibition by being one of the few wineries designated to make altar wine… yes, religion kept them alive. The unexpectedly swank but relaxed winery is well worth visiting on its own with a tasting room, restaurant and wine bar pouring over 50 wines by the glass.

Concannon whiskey is an obvious step above other Irish whiskeys in this price range. Smooth and affordable ($24.99 a bottle), caramel and vanilla notes from bourbon barrels hit the nose. To taste, there’s apples, gentle spice and golden raisins with a silky, oak finish. And that Bay Area connection creates an immediate bond. $24.99

SCIENCE OF COCKTAILS 2012

Though Science of Cocktails may be on hiatus next year due to the Exploratorium‘s big move to the Embarcadero, this year’s party is worth highlighting. Attending since the inaugural event three years ago (my review here), Science of Cocktails gets better each year.

I’m not sure if the new VIP area added much other than a bird’s-eye view from above with a few additional bites and drinks, the bulk of food being downstairs. Edible options were more enticing than ever in the uber-cool museum space (mini Reubens, sushi, Chinese dumplings, In-N-Out-inspired burgers with Thousand Island dressing). The cavernous space easily holds hundreds of people without feeling packed. Here one can interact with exhibits, kid-free, cocktails in hand.

Drinks were poured by some of the Bay’s best bartenders and distillers, sporting white lab-coats, delivering concoctions from test tubes, beakers and hand-crafted contraptions. Cocktails were served in pre-bottled, liquid nitrogen, jello, even powdered forms. Let us not forget the shiny, porcelain toilet spouting Speakeasy beer.

The biggest treat of the evening was a special barrel from distiller Dave Smith at St. George Spirits in collaboration with bartenders Darren Crawford (Bourbon & Branch) and Russell Davis (Rickhouse). The three of them call the endeavor the Manhattan Project, a tribute to Frank Oppenheimer, founder of the Exploratorium. He also worked on the Manhattan Project, producing the first atomic bomb, with its director and his brother Robert.

No bombs here, however. Only fine whiskey. Using St. George’s new Breaking & Entering Bourbon (B&E), the dynamic trio aged Manhattan cocktails with their own precise blend of vermouths (Punt E Mes, Dolin Rouge, Carpano Antica), serving a balanced, aged Manhattan. The unexpected came when they followed that up with a p0ur of B&E bourbon finished in the barrel used to age the Manhattan.

Whispers of spice and bitters from the Manhattan up the B&E whiskey experience. This beauty won’t be for sale but you might just see the like of it at special drink events such as this.

My favorite cocktail of the night was Christina Cabrera’s (Michael Mina) Roses Foxtrot. Made with Four Roses bourbon, Calvados apple brandy, Gran Classico, Benedictine, Angostura bitters, and her own cardamom pear syrup and coffee tincture, the pièce de résistance was a finish of thick absinthe foam and gently fried sage leaf. Lush and light, the absinthe foam endowed a creamy crown and anise spirit to the cocktail. I could eat the foam and softly sugared sage leaves all on their own (and did). As a whole, the drink melded into a textural, breezy pleasure.

Other highlights included Jennifer Colliau’s (Slanted Door) mocktails using her own unmatched Small Hand Foods line of gum syrups, grenadine and the like. Leave it to skilled hands to make some of the best drinks of a cocktail event sans alcohol (I was in love with her coconut water/orgeat drink).

It’s a long wait until 2014, but here’s to many more years of Science of Cocktails in the new Exploratorium.

The Face of Bordeaux

Bordeaux surprises. Some think of Bordeaux wines as pricey, out of reach, inaccessible. Others as some of the best wines in the world.

Visiting numerous winemakers throughout the region during their recent harvest, I was delighted at the vast range of quality, affordable wines from the region.

Another pleasant surprise is witnessing traditional chateaus and generational family winemakers alongside forward thinking, modern wineries and career-changing winemakers entering the field later in life.

Here are just a few of the faces, chateaus and wines of Bordeaux that made an impression on me. All recommended wines are available in the US, many through K&L Wine Merchants and JJ Buckley Fine Wines.

CHATEAU de PRESSAC, Saint-Emilion

Probably my favorite winery and couple of my Bordeaux travels is Jean-Francois and Dominique Quenin at Chateau de Pressac. Jean-Francois bursts with joy over the work he does at his stunning chateau, first built in the Middle Ages. A career changing top-level executive who went from major corporation (Darty, a huge European electronics company) to winemaker, he’s also St. Emilion’s Wine Council President.

Jean-Francois and his wife exude a tender love for the land. They hosted an unforgettable lunch in their chateau, sampling me through other winning wines from the region besides their own.

Recommended wine: 2008 Chateau de Pressac exhibits ripe cherries on the nose, with cassis, a silky texture and balanced acidity. $28

CHATEAU PALOUMEY, Haut-Medoc

Chateau Paloumey‘s female winemaker, Martine Cazeneuve, is inspiring. A teacher turned winemaker, she restored the land’s vines to award-winning status (formerly Cru Bourgeois Superieur), her vino served in many Michelin-starred restaurants. Martine and staff also educated on the Medoc region and its brand new classification and rating system, with a tasting of numerous wines from the region, mostly priced under $25.

Recommended wine: Though I like the smooth, soft 2007 Chateau Paloumey, the 2009 Cru Bourgeois Grand Vin de Bordeaux, a Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot blend, exhibits the most promise, tasting of dusty strawberry, balanced acidity, minimal oak, and a hint of smoke. $20-25

 CHATEAU OLIVIER, Pessac-Leognon

Chateau Olivier has a storied history, dating back to the 12th century when its striking, moat-surrounded chateau was built. Winemaker Laurent Lebrun uses forward-thinking winemaking techniques, replanting vines and maximizing the land’s varied, rich soil of gravel, sand, clay, and limestone.

Recommended wine: 2009 Chateau Olivier Blanc is a blend of 75% Sauvignon Blanc, 23% Semillion, 2% Muscadelle grapes. On the nose it is refreshingly grassy and bright with lemon peel, translating to acidic citrus and hint of herbs to taste. $38.99

2005 Chateau Olivier is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 5% Cab Franc. Earthy berries hit on the nose, with a taste of wood, dark chocolate and berries in this balanced, elegant red. $45

CHATEAU D’ARCOLE, Saint-Emilion

Delightful couple Victorie and Phillipe own a winery in Bordeaux’s Entre deux Mers region, but after turning 40 decided it was a time for a new challenge. They took on a tiny, 5 hectares plot of land in ultra-expensive Saint-Emilion. Their Chateau D’Arcole land has never seen chemicals and is certified organic, a rarity in the region. Victorie and Phillipe restored the humble winery from the ground up. In soil of gravel and sand, they planted 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet grapes.

Recommended wine: I like their 2009 Chateau D’Arcole Grand Cru best, with soft, fresh berry on the nose, and a round, earthy, dried berry profile. $20

CLEMENT PICHON, Medoc

On an idyllic estate with a magnificent 1885 mansion, ponies, ponds and statues, sits Chateau Clement Pichon, with merely 25 hectares of vineyards and modern, sleek production facilities.

Owned by Clement Fayat of the huge Fayat Group, the peaceful grounds will soon launch five guest rooms and host outdoor parties by a fountain with full view of the mansion where the Fayat family resides.

Recommended wine: 2008 Clement Pichon is 70% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Cab Franc. With high acidity and a light body, it’s elegant but easy, everyday drinking. $16.99

CHATEAU LA GRAVE & CHATEAU D’ARCHE, Sauternes

In the famously “sweet” region of Sauternes, I met two winemakers, the soft spoken, hard working Virginie Tinon, a 1st generation winemaker for Vignoble Tinon wines, and Jérôme Cosson on the peaceful grounds of Chateau D’Arche, with on-site lodging and a talented chef.

Both châteaux pick grapes completely by hand. I had the privilege of harvesting “noble rot” (botrytis) grapes with the workers at Chateau D’Arche. Painstaking work it is, with multiple picks required as the grapes rot at various stages, requiring multiple “picks”.

D’Arche’s on-site chef walked us through numerous mostly savory food pairings with their wines, showcasing Sauternes wines as more than just dessert wine.

Recommended wine: Chateau D’Arche‘s 2008 Chateau Costeau is 100% Semillion (from grapes in the Cadillac region of Bordeaux) with honey, peach notes but a vivid acidity keeping cloying aspects at bay. $15

“… in a time lacking in truth and certainty and filled with anguish and despair, no woman [or man] should be shame-faced in attempting to give back to the world, through her work, a portion of its lost heart.”
- Louise Bogan

As you receive this, I’m returning from the snowy regions of Niagara-on-the-Lake in Ontario, Canada, exploring icewine during harvest season. I’ll return with stories from Inniskillin, Jackson-Triggs, and Niagara Falls.

At home, Top Tastes is giddy with excellent new cheap eats spots: fried chicken with Asian attitude in North Beach, rotisserie in Pac Heights, and Breton crepes that almost fill the Ti Couz void.

In Imbiber, I explore East Bay cocktail bars in general, and two brand new ones from SF bar stars in particular. Imbiber, part two, sips Brian Means’ cocktails on the Fifth Floor menu.

Around the Bay weekends in Sonoma at a hotel whose winning features are its restaurant and spa, and at new restaurants from Healdsburg to Santa Rosa.

I’d love your feedback on any spots visited from my site. As your personal concierge who tells it to you like a good friend would, I also create personalized itineraries: trips, meals, explorations (under “Services“).

Let me guide you to the perfect spot,

Virginia

Follow me on Twitter: http://twitter.com/ThePerfectSpot

Follow my “best of” lists on NBC’s The Feast

Recent entries in my Bay Guardian column:
Cocktailing the East Bay – Further Adventures
Easy Honors: 2 Shining New Stars in the East Bay Cocktail Scene
Shining Season: Review of the new AQ restaurant

**Unless otherwise noted, all photos by Virginia Miller**

3 First-Rate Cheap Eats Spots

Our city is loaded with amazing cheap eats. Here’s three new places worth adding to your go-to list.

CHUBBY NOODLE, North Beach (570 Green Street between Columbus & Jasper Place, 415-361-8850)

Chubby Noodle easily counts as a best cheap eats opening of 2011. In the back of comfortably retro Amante bar, order at a kitchen window (illuminated in neon by the word, “Hungry?”). Then slide into roomy booths to fill up on fresh, daily ceviche, Hawaiian tuna poke ($11), and heartwarming red miso ramen ($9 with pork and poached egg; $11 with shrimp). From owners of the excellent, neighboring Don Pisto’s, I expected good, but it’s better than good.

Whatever you do, don’t miss organic, buttermilk-brined, Mary’s fried chicken (5-piece wings or strips $9; 2 piece drum & thigh meal $7). It’s American fried chicken with Asian attitude, dipped in habit-forming, creamy sambal dipping sauce. Tender chicken strips are an elevated, gourmet version of chicken tenders from childhood.

House kimchi is no slouch, working its gently heated wonders as a side ($4) or on a kimchi kobe beef hot dog ($6). Besides the fried chicken, my other top dish is spicy garlic noodles ($8). Chewy and homemade, they’re oozing with garlic, oyster sauce, and a little jalapeno kick. Their Korean pork tacos ($9) aren’t carbon copies of the usual trendy dish. Instead of shredded pork, chunks of Niman Ranch rib chop imbue beefy heft, contrasted by Korean pickles, yogurt sauce, and arbol chile vinegar.

Don’t opt for Italian next time you’re in North Beach. Opt for Chubby Noodle. You won’t be sorry.

ROOSTERTAIL, Pacific Heights (1963 Sutter Street between Fillmore & Webster), 415-776-6783

Roostertail is, yes, another rotisserie joint. But only weeks into opening, and a few visits later, I’m impressed with friendly staff who exude a warm welcome even when merely grabbing take-out (note: they just launched curbside pick-up with pre-paid phone orders). The space boasts silver countertops and bright red stools, festive with beer and wine on draft.

When it comes to rotisserie, I’ll take dark meat, thanks ($5.75-$18.50, quarter to whole birds). The organic, juicy meat is delightful with their garlicky green sauce. Husband/wife team, Gerard Darian and Tracy Green, get their mainstay right.

A pulled pork sandwich ($10.75) is a solid sandwich pick, on an Acme bun topped with fresh coleslaw unencumbered by mayo. Tiny chicken wings didn’t excite (I prefer Hot Sauce & Panko‘s creative, meatier wings), nor did the cheesesteak sandwich. But there’s brisket, five different sandwiches or hefty salad options, along with soulful sides ($4-$5.50) like brisket baked beans or brussels sprouts with bacon.

I keep going back for the rotisserie.

GALETTE 88, Financial District (88 Hardie Place at Kearny, 415-989-2222)

There’s a Ti Couz-shaped hole where my Brittany crepe hunger resides.

Through the years, crepes didn’t get better than at the now-defunct Ti Couz. At the end of an alley off Kearny, the new Galette 88 isn’t exactly a replacement. There’s note quite the same depth of buckwheat earthiness. Their French galettes (aka buckwheat crepes; savory: $6-10, sweet: $5-6) are even thinner, still crisp, a little less flavorful, but nonetheless worthwhile. Gluten free and healthy, they’re made with only three ingredients (water, sea salt, buckwheat flour made from buckwheat which is a plant, not a grain), loaded with fiber, vegetable protein, calcium, iron.

Order Four Barrel coffee, Mighty Lea tea, or hard cider and choose a crepe. Bruce’s choice ($10) is my first pick, layered with smoked salmon, caramelized onions, and capers, topped with avocado slices, greens, and a tart/sweet lemon chive creme fraiche. Light yet filling, the zesty lemon sauce makes it.

Bleu Velvet ($9) is a savory/sweet choice of blue cheese, browned apples, arugula, honey, toasted almonds. Dessert crepes (lemon sugar, roasted apples with salted caramel, chocolate with candied orange peel, or nutella), made with eggs, milk, wheat flour and sugar, lacked the subtle chewiness and flavor of Ti Couz’ wheat dessert crepes.

But in their absence, Galette 88‘s crepes contend for the best in town.

It’s already one of the more pleasant FiDi lunch options (with just-added dinner, Wed.-Fri.): casual, order-at-the-counter ease, the owner flitting about, ensuring water cups are filled and everyone is content. The space is minimalist with live birch trees towering in one corner and a decidedly Mission air… rare in FiDi.

Galette 88 may not fill that Ti Couz-shaped hole, but it definitely satisfies Breton crepe cravings.