Aug
15
2014

August 15, 2014

Far away there in the sunshine are my highest aspirations. I may not reach them, but I can look up and see their beauty, believe in them, and try to follow where they lead.” – Louisa May Alcott

Red Hill Station in Bernal Heights (see "Top Tastes")

Red Hill Station in Bernal Heights (see “Top Tastes”)

Another full round of recommends from the continual stream of new openings (I hit them all), forgotten (or never discovered) classics and notable drinks, from Napa to the East Bay, and around Manhattan.

This issue:

Top TastesMy Top Food Articles, August 1-15: 16 of my latest Zagat articles on new restaurants, underrated spots, weekend escapes and noteworthy events.
ImbiberMy Top Drink Articles, August 1-15: 6 of my latest Zagat articles on cocktail menus, quality drinks around the Bay Area, highlights in wine and beer.
Wandering Traveler: My 10 Best Meals in NYC 2014: In one of my second homes, my best from this year’s return visits to NYC.

As your personal concierge who tells it like a good friend would, I also create personalized itineraries: trips, meals, explorations (under “Services“).

Virginia

CLICKABLE LINKS to Social Media & Articles:
Twitter
Facebook

Liquor.com
Zagat
7×7 Magazine
Spoonwiz
Pinterest

**Unless otherwise noted, all photos by Virginia Miller**

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Written by in: Intro Letter |
Aug
15
2014

Top Tastes

Urchin Bistrot Mussels-Virginia Miller

Mussels cooked escargot-style at Urchin Bistrot

My Top Food Articles: August 1-15

Photos and articles by Virginia Miller

From my 15 articles/posts a week as Zagat Editor, I summarize and link to just some coverage highlights here – you can sign up for Zagat’s weekly newsletter for highlights here and follow along on Twitter @ZagatSF, where I post daily.

As I have been for over a decade, I’m on the ground daily looking for early standouts at each new opening, while sharing underrated places and dishes you’ve seen me write about here at The Perfect Spot for years, and, of course, plenty of drink coverage (cocktails, wine, spirits, beer).

New Bay Area Openings

First Look: What to Eat & Drink at Modern French Bistro, URCHIN BISTROT, in the Mission

First Look at PLIN, Italian Newcomer in the Mission

Hidden New Seafood Gem in Bernal Heights: RED HILL STATION

FERRY PLAZA SEAFOOD – Reborn in North Beach

Every Friday: 25 NEW RESTAURANTS TO TRY IN THE BAY AREA

Underrated & Established Spots

SF’s Most Underrated Italian Food ‘Hood

$10 Lunch: DINING ON CHINESE HAKKA CUISINE in Outer Richmond

Unsung Heroes: LUCCA RAVIOLI in the Mission

Secretly Awesome: TONGA ROOM‘s bao, Spam fried rice and Tiki cocktails

Secretly Awesome: CHOLO SOY’S PERUVIAN COUNTER

HOG & ROCK‘s Late Night Korean Pop-up

NorCal

7 Top FOODIE ROAD TRIPS Around NORTHERN CALIFORNIA

Events

The 6 Best Things We Ate at OUTSIDE LANDS

The Best Things We Ate at EAT DRINK SF 2014

The LAST STREET FOOD FESTIVAL in the Mission – What to Eat

TASTE OF SONOMA Weekend Happens Pre-Labor Day

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Aug
15
2014

Imbiber

Urchin Bistrot Cocktail-Virginia Miller

Cocktails at Urchin Bistrot in the Mission

My Top Drink Articles: August 1-15

Photos and articles by Virginia Miller

From my 15 articles/posts a week as Zagat Editor, I summarize and link to just some of this coverage here – you can sign up for Zagat’s weekly newsletter for the Bay Area here and follow along on Twitter @ZagatSF, where I post daily.

Cocktails/Spirits

- First Look: What to Drink at the new URCHIN BISTROT in the Mission
- WHITECHAPEL: Martin Cate’s (of Smuggler’s Cove) New Gin Temple
- Trendspotting: FRENCH SPIRITS-CENTRIC BAR PROGRAMS
- 5 Best Things I Drank at EAT DRINK SF

Wine

3 Killer WINES TO DRINK NOW on Bay Area Menus

Beer

Take a Beer Break at BARREL HEAD BREWHOUSE

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Written by in: Imbiber | Tags:
Aug
15
2014

Wandering Traveler

Empire State Building from my Ace Hotel room in the morning

Empire State Building from my Ace Hotel room in the morning

Empire State Building from my Ace Hotel room at night

Empire State Building from my Ace Hotel room at night

New York: My 10 Best Meals of 2014

Photos and article by Virginia Miller

Working on a video project this Spring for Tastemade, I returned to my old stomping grounds, a city I’ve long and intimately known, to dig in again, this time staying in the Flatiron district.

Waldorf salad prepared tableside at Eleven Madison Park

Waldorf salad prepared tableside at Eleven Madison Park

I kept fueled on coffee at the delightful Happy Bones in Little Italy/Nolita, shakeratos from Zibetto Espresso Bar, and faced perpetual coffee lines at the Stumptown downstairs from my room at the Ace Hotel. Next time I will share cocktail bar discoveries from this visit, but here are my top 10 restaurants/meals in NYC this year (years of additional recommendations here).

1. ELEVEN MADISON PARK, Flatiron

Eleven Madison's Baked Alaska set alight tableside

Eleven Madison’s Baked Alaska set alight tableside

One of the great fine dining restaurants anywhere in the world, this 3-Michelin star restaurant is as spectacular as the best restaurant visits of my life, like Osteria Francescana in Modena, Italy. I’d also easily call it my favorite NYC splurge (second place would be the modern classic Gramercy Tavern). Here is my full review and photos from this year’s visit.

2. RUBIROSA, Little Italy

Rubirosa pizza

Rubirosa pizza

At his cozy, low ceiling Little Italy haven, Rubirosa, Angelo (A.J.) Pappalardo serves recipes inspired from his father Giuseppe’s Staten Island restaurant, Joe & Pat’s, since 1960. A.J. opened Rubirosa with his father and chef friend Al Di Meglio. His paper-thin, almost cracker-like pizzas are dreamy, laden with cheese and meat, among my favorite pizza in Manhattan (slices available at lunch only). The family-friendly, rustic space begs for an amaro cocktail and hearty bowl of fantastic “Sunday sauce”, a changing weekly option of pasta and red sauce. Recently I had the choice of spaghetti or rigatoni ($21) in a downright fantastic red sauce, savory from multiple meats: braciole, meatball, braised rib and sausage, topped with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.

3. ZZ CLAM BAR, Greenwich Village

Romantic & intimate: ZZ Clam Bar

Romantic & intimate: ZZ Clam Bar

ZZ Clam Bar, a 12-seat, reservations-only seafood and cocktail bar is an intimate oasis in The Village that sings of island breezes and upscale Tiki culture circa 1940s with its romantic setting, set to a soundtrack of lounge, exotica and other musical pleasures. Sounds like my dream spot, right? In many ways it is. Opened Summer 2013 by Rich Torrisi and Mario Carbone of neighboring Carbone, it is, like that red sauce Italian haven, vastly overpriced. It can easily cost a few hundred dollars here for dinner and cocktails, which are $20 each, though it is a fairly informal setting of a couple tables.

Despite many friends in common and his former ties to SF and The Alembic (where he used to work and though I am writer, where I bartended for a few months – I did not present any of this information but should not have had to for quality service as one of only 12 people there), barman Thomas Waugh didn’t seem interested in engaging or even explaining the many cocktails we tried, which would have made the difference between an overpriced experience and a fantastic one commensurate with the tiny space and one bartender ratio. A place this intimate is uncomfortable if the welcome is not warm and engaged. Thankfully, it was from our server, which should be imperative from all staff given the prices paid.

s

Shimaji tartare

It’s hard to say $300+ is worth it for a non-fine dining experience where portions are so tiny, although in making reservations, one could request a couple seats against the wall and go for drinks only. At the same time, ZZ is such a one-of-a-kind spot, it is worth experiencing if you can afford it and desire something different as those of us do who dine and drink at hundreds of places each year around the world. While we’ve seen seafood crudo and raw fish menus many times before, ZZ’s interpretation is imaginative and bright, and the cocktails maintain tropical flair, each visually striking in gorgeous vintage glassware.

Cherry trout, trout roe, fried leeks crudo ($27)

Cherry trout, trout roe & fried leeks crudo ($27)

Menu highlights included uni toast on pretzel bread ($30) vivaciously accented by apple, mustard, horseradish, and also seared live scallops ($18), silky in brown butter and nutty with Sicilian pistachios. We splurged (big time) on rare shimaji tartare ($98), a square of lovely raw fish, with thick layers of ricotta and caviar. I tasted six cocktails, intrigued by combinations like Plymouth gin, creamy with pistachio and honey, tart with kumquat, or a Reposado Tequila-based concoction mixed with squash, thyme and allspice. I crave this type of creative, culinary experimentation in cocktails, some working better than others, though I relish the vision beyond the usual… and that vintage glassware.

4. CAFE KATJA, LES

Cafe Katja's Emmentaler sausage

Cafe Katja’s Emmentaler sausage

Café Katja transports me straight back to Austria, owned by Austrian native Erwin Schrottner and business partner Andrew Chase. Though bustling with a Lower East Side vibe, it’s refreshingly comfortable for Manhattan, with a warmer welcome than at the majority of Manhattan restaurants, enhanced by plenty of woods and a candlelit glow. Most importantly, it’s a source for actual Austrian schnaps, expensive though a pour may be. While I have been bemoaning the lack of importation of real schnaps into the US compared to the amazing producers I tasted in Austria last fall, Katja pours a few of the greats, like Reisetbauer and Golles, albeit at high prices, $25 or more a pour. But there’s nothing better with a mountain of marinated herring ($11) and cucumber potato salad, or plump house sausages like an Emmentaler sausage ($14) – yes, filled with Emmentaler cheese, served with savoy cabbage and quark dumplings. Lovely food, drink and setting make this an ideal neighborhood restaurant.

5. THE SHAKESPEARE, Midtown East

The Shakespeare's burger

The Shakespeare’s burger

The Shakespeare just opened in December 2013 as a multi-room, wood-walled restaurant that evokes the classic pubs of England, Scotland and Ireland, serving all manner of cask ales and English drafts, from Jason Hicks and Yves Jadot who also run Jones Wood Foundry. The best part is that the food is top-notch gastropub fare, thanks to British chef Robert Aikens (from none other than London’s Le Gavroche). Despite the exhaustion of the gastropub category the last couple decades, this is one of the better ones in NY, serving flaky, beer-battered cod fish and chips ($23), and an excellent burger ($19) with a patty of aged NY strip and skirt steak, short rib and chuck, slathered in cheddar, smoked bacon and Brooklyn brine pickles.

6. DESPANA, SoHo

Afternoon tapas at Despana

Afternoon tapas at Despana

One of the great Spanish grocers (a Queens-based importer), Despana is not only killer source for all foods Spain, from cheeses and meets, to cockles and chocolates, it’s a winning tapas stop with changing Spanish wines by the glass and a few communal tables from which to enjoy a quick bite of fresh boquerones (anchovies) or octopus drizzled in silky olive oil.

7. LOUIE & CHAN, LES

Louie & Chan's Peking duck calzone

Louie & Chan’s Peking duck calzone

I almost jumped for joy when I heard about the opening of Louie & Chan in late 2013, a China-meets-Italy (due to its perch near both Chinatown and Little Italy) with an upstairs Neapolitan trattoria and a candlelit, downstairs Asian cocktail lounge. It’s the kind of mash-up I’d like to see more often, despite the heavy DJ and dance action in the downstairs bar (with thankfully good cocktails, like the Chinatown Daiquiri, a blend of Appleton’s Reserve rum, lime, ginger and honey syrups, Sriracha sauce and muddled strawberries). But the place still feels like its finding itself. A Louie & Chan calzone ($16) is a brilliant idea: a giant calzone stuffed with buffalo ricotta, mozzarella, tomato sauce, shiitake, bok choy – and, yes, Peking duck. It lacks cohesive unctuousness and the mushrooms are bland but the concept of an Asian-Italian calzone begs to be further explored.

Aperitifs and bites

Aperitifs and bites

The other very smart concept here is the Aperitivo menu, a pairing of aperitif cocktails with a bite, like a Negroni Blanco ($13 for drink and bite) with choice of bites like polpettine al limone (lamb/beef fried meatball in lemon, Parmigiano, herbs) or montanarina (fried dough, pomodoro sauce, mozzarella, Parmigiano). I’d love to see more of this kind of creative clash of cuisines happening everywhere.

8. MAHARLIKA, East Village

Maharlika's Filipino fried chicken and purple ube waffles

Maharlika’s Filipino fried chicken and purple ube waffles

This funky little Filipino spot, Maharlika, breathes life and even hip factor into the cuisine, honoring the authentic and playful (bottles of Jufran banana sauce – a Filipino banana ketchup – and black and white photo artwork of Filipina Miss Universe 1973). Nicole Ponseca, Enzo Lim and Noel Cruz’ intimate restaurant shines at brunch/lunch with traditional dishes like sisig (pig ears, snout, belly) and pancit bihon (rice vermicelli noodles). But it’s the funky, unusual entrees that make it a draw. Case in point: excellent, batterless fried chicken and purple yam waffles ($17). Filipino chicken and waffles are fun enough, but ratchet it up another level by dousing them in anchovy-bagoong (fermented fish/shrimp) butter and caramelized macapuno (a variety of coconut) syrup.

9. SKAL, LES

Skal's salt cod croquettes

Skal’s salt cod croquettes

I’m ever on the hunt for great Scandinavian food in the US. Skal (open since Summer 2013) is one of the better in the category I’ve been to in NY, although over the years, I’ve not found a Nordic menu I like near as well as Aquavit in its older days. Skal is a nod to Iceland (the name means “cheers” in Icelandic) serving the likes of pickled smelts on antique china in a cozy-chic space. The dishes don’t always wow and neither do the cocktails, yet both are consistently gratifying. Recent highlights: salt cod croquettes ($7) with horseradish remoulade, charred broccoli ($11) doused in green garlic and breadcrumbs, sugar snap peas ($12) artfully accented by crushed radishes, whey and Mangalista lardo, and smoked mackerel ($19) contrasted by sour onions, walnuts and shaved, frozen foie gras.

10. THE LIBRARY at the PUBLIC THEATER, NoHo

Inviting: The Library at The Public

Inviting: The Library at The Public

Upstairs above the Public Theater is The Library, a spacious, soothing restaurant lined with vintage theater posters. The place is refreshingly mellow, classy and half empty — until the theater lets out and all the actors and theater crew head upstairs, applauding each other over drinks and bites. While the food didn’t exactly impress, it is still good, and after a particularly hard day, I couldn’t imagine a more soothing setting in these parts of NY – with gracious service to boot. Andrew Carmellini (James Beard Award-winner behind Locanda Verde) and chef Michael Oliver (also of Locanda) keep it simple but comforting in dishes like smoked cauliflower cassoulet ($24) and crispy calamari and shishito peppers ($14) dipped in chipotle sauce, accompanied by decent cocktails.

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Written by in: Wandering Traveler | Tags:
Aug
01
2014

August 1, 2014

“It’s not the conviction that something will turn out well, but the certainty that something makes sense regardless of how it turns out.” – Vaclav Havel, former Czech president

Lolo Cevicheria

Lolo Cevicheria

Another late comer but packed full of recommends from the continual stream of new openings (I hit them all), forgotten (or never discovered) classics and notable drinks, from Napa to the East Bay.

This issue:

Top TastesMy Top Food Articles, July 16-31: 21 of my latest Zagat articles on new restaurants, underrated spots, weekend escapes and noteworthy events.
ImbiberMy Top Drink Articles, July 16-31: 11 of my latest Zagat articles on cocktail menus, quality drinks around the Bay Area, highlights in wine and beer.

As your personal concierge who tells it like a good friend would, I also create personalized itineraries: trips, meals, explorations (under “Services“).

Virginia

CLICKABLE LINKS to Social Media & Articles:
Twitter
Facebook

Liquor.com
Zagat
7×7 Magazine
Spoonwiz
Pinterest

**Unless otherwise noted, all photos by Virginia Miller**

FacebookShare
Written by in: Intro Letter |
Aug
01
2014

Top Tastes

Lolo Cevicheria

Lolo Cevicheria

My Top Food Articles: July 15-31

Photos and articles by Virginia Miller

From my 15 articles/posts a week as Zagat Editor, I summarize and link to just some coverage highlights here – you can sign up for Zagat’s weekly newsletter for highlights here and follow along on Twitter @ZagatSF, where I post daily.

As I have been for over a decade, I’m on the ground daily looking for early standouts at each new opening, while sharing underrated places and dishes you’ve seen me write about here at The Perfect Spot for years, and, of course, plenty of drink coverage (cocktails, wine, spirits, beer).

New Bay Area Openings

LOLO opens LOLO CEVICHERIA – Mexico meets Peru in an artfully festive space

CHARLES PHAN’s new Mexican restaurant/bar, SOUTH

New Scandinavian influence at NEW, EXPANDED OUTERLANDS by Ocean Beach

OUTERLANDS under-the-radar WEEKDAY BREAKFAST

French-centric at Corey Lee’s new MONSIEUR BENJAMIN

TONY’S PIZZA is now at the ballpark

Every Friday: 25 NEW RESTAURANTS TO TRY IN THE BAY AREA

Underrated & Established Spots

The Bay Area’s 10 BEST ICE CREAM SHOPS

6 must-order items on BAR TARTINE’s SUMMER menu

Try EMPORIO RULLI’s fantastic Alsatian kouglof

Unsung Heroes: seafood classic way out by the beach at PACIFIC CAFE

Secretly Awesome: Dumplings and hand-pulled noodles at HOUSE OF PANCAKES

Unsung Heroes: KATIA’s RUSSIAN TEA ROOM

Secretly Awesome: B STAR’s THAI CURRY SALMON POT PIE

$10 Lunch: ZA PIZZA on Russian Hill

Secretly Awesome: SUGAR & SPUN’s GOURMET COTTON CANDY

Outerlands' perfect bread

Outerlands’ perfect bread

East Bay

Spanish fun from Top Chef alums at brand new SHAKEWELL in OAKLAND

Destination Oakland: seafood haven alaMar

Napa

Excellent fine dining in SONOMA (Healdsburg) at romantic MADRONA MANOR

TORC, in the former UBUNTU space in downtown Napa

Events

OUTSIDE LANDS announces GastroMagic, the first interactive culinary stage August 8-10

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Written by in: Top Tastes |
Aug
01
2014

Imbiber

Erik Adkins cocktails at South at SFJAZZ - the new Mexican restaurant from Charles Phan

Erik Adkins cocktails at South at SFJAZZ – the new Mexican restaurant from Charles Phan

My Top Drink Articles: July 15-31

Photos and articles by Virginia Miller

From my 15 articles/posts a week as Zagat Editor, I summarize and link to just some of this coverage here – you can sign up for Zagat’s weekly newsletter for the Bay Area here and follow along on Twitter @ZagatSF, where I post daily.

Cocktails

San Francisco wins at TALES OF THE COCKTAIL

ERIK ADKINS’ cocktails at CHARLES PHAN new Mexican restaurant/bar, SOUTH

Full bar and cocktail menu at NEW, EXPANDED OUTERLANDS by Ocean Beach

Pam Bushling’s garden-fresh cocktails in SONOMA (Healdsburg) at romantic MADRONA MANOR

Wine & cocktail recommends (French-centric) at Corey Lee’s new MONSIEUR BENJAMIN

A fantastic Lavender Flip and more at brand new SHAKEWELL in OAKLAND

Destination Oakland: cocktails at seafood haven, alaMar

Wine

New CADET wine + beer bar in NAPA

BARREL ROOM ROCKRIDGE’s wine classes study Spanish and Portuguese wines

Beer

ABBOTS CELLAR sells rare beers from its (and Monk’s Kettle) cellars

Books

3 NEW BOOKS (2 of them cocktail books from drink experts in NY and Portland)

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Written by in: Imbiber | Tags: , ,
Jul
15
2014

July 15, 2014

“I am the rain coming from the dew
that causes the grasses to laugh with the joy of life.
I call forth tears, the aroma of holy work.
I am the yearning for good.”
– Hildegard of Bingen

Stones Throw's stellar summer menu

Stones Throw’s stellar summer menu

This newsletter is going out a bit late (I apologize), but I’m shooting for the next one to be on time. Just back from New Orleans and savoring these balmy San Francisco nights, I’m a bit behind on work but grateful to be home as I was to gather the pieces of home I always feel keenly in NOLA.

This issue:

Top TastesMy Top Food Articles, July 1-15: 15 of my latest Zagat articles on new restaurants, underrated spots, weekend escapes and noteworthy events.
ImbiberMy Top Drink Articles, July 1-15: 11 of my latest articles on cocktail menus, quality drinks around the Bay Area, highlights in wine and beer.

As your personal concierge who tells it like a good friend would, I also create personalized itineraries: trips, meals, explorations (under “Services“).

Virginia

CLICKABLE LINKS to Social Media & Articles:
Twitter
Facebook

Liquor.com
Zagat
7×7 Magazine
Spoonwiz
Pinterest

**Unless otherwise noted, all photos by Virginia Miller**

FacebookShare
Written by in: Intro Letter |

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