Even when times are tight, we’ve got to eat. There have been a slew of revisits, cheap eats and comfort food keeping me going lately, like Town Hall’s new BBQ-out-back lunch (ribs, sausages, po boys), ever lovable Phat Philly cheesesteaks, maki at Sushi Zen, Belgian waffles at Civic Center Farmer’s Market, always heroic sandwiches at Morty’s (jury duty had to have some reward!), lunch (ok food, but great coffee and snacks) in Horatius’ dramatic, pristine space, shopping at beer kings, City Beer Store & Healthy Spirits, a rowdy German dinner at Schnitzelhaus (”yes” to Black Forest Deer Ragout with spaetzle & red cabbage), and a late night Mission Heat at Urban Burger.

SAVORY - VEGETARIAN

• At a recent Girl & the Fig dinner (a place I always enjoy, but never love, food-wise - I do love the classic bar and idyllic Summer evening back patio, however), the cheese platter included Pleasant Ridge Reserve cow’s milk cheese from Dodgeville, Wisconsin - grassy and firm, a pleasant mix of salt with sweet sides of quince paste and fig cake.

SAVORY - MEAT

• Three days a week I work in Potrero and am rather blase about nearby 18th Street lunch options. Helps to have Dogpatch (and Kitchenette) a short drive away, with The New Spot my stop for pupusas, fresh juices and Mexican food. Now New Spot folks debuted a little sandwich shop on Third called Oralia’s Cafe, which slices some mean pastrami. Get a sandwich for $7.49 loaded with thick, savory cuts of the meat, nicely contrasted with pickles.  Makes me homesick for the East Coast.

• Bar Tartine does me right for brunch every time. Mellow, sweet service, Blue Bottle coffee, excellent food - and no waits (though they just started taking brunch reservations). I tend to overdo it on

the pork belly ’shout-outs’, I know (I can’t help it!), but my favorite recent dish was their Open-face Pork Belly Sandwich ($14), a huge helping of belly, avocado, perfectly-made egg salad, sweet and spicy pickled jalapeno, with shoestring fries and aioli.

• Masa’s is a stellar experience, from service to food - truly a San Fran fine dining classic. Last week, I found myself (for the sake of other diners) trying to reign in my excess pleasure over an amuse bouche of Siberian Caviar atop a Cauliflower Panna Cotta, and a dish of warm, silky Foie Gras topped with Royal Blenheim Apricots on a bed of French green lentils and squab consommé (the latter a tasting menu option).

SAVORY - SEAFOOD

• On a pristine Sebastopol day, lunch at Starlight Wine Bar was a one-of-a-kind experience aboard a gorgeous, original Pullman car inside a barn-like structure housing a cute cafe and Starlight’s partner wine bar. The setting, with big band & jazz classics softly playing, and informed service, impresses, but I also noted ultra-fresh salads and vegetable platter with nearby farm ingredients. Most fun was an appetizer of plump Cajun Shrimp with addictive Creole sauce and (thankfully) bread to soak it up with.

• It was a happy night back at Wexler’s (tried it for lunch last time), working my way through a Slow- Roasted Smoked Sturgeon ($21) with divine Lobster/Bacon/Corn Cake and bartender, Carlos Yturria’s, classically strong, beautiful Mint Julep (yes, in a proper julep cup, just the way it should be!)

SWEET

• A late night pizza feast at Giovanni’s was already satisfying after Caprese and Mexican pizzas were devoured. But a Banana & Cinnamon Pizza (order any size from small to extra large), with slivers of baked banana on top of a blend of four dry cheeses (including Parmesan) for a subtly savory touch, is one of the more comfortingly good desserts I’ve had in a while. When the generous owners came by offering everyone a slice of a hot-out-of-the-oven Crab Apple pizza, I dug the contrast of savory cheese with ultra-sweet crab apples. They told me they’re working on a Guava dessert pizza next. These aren’t gooey sweet, but rather light, unique desserts worth trekking to Outer Mission/border of Bernal for.

• Wexler’s deserves a second, and even a third, mention as I recently got to try the two desserts ($6 each) I most wanted to order on opening day but which they were out of… both were winners. Sour Cream Japanese Pear Pie looks thin, but is just the right amount of flaky, buttery crust with Winchester Gouda for a savory hint to the pears and spices, while sour cream rests as a light, tart whip on the side. Inside-Out Root Beer Float is a delightful mix of house-made vanilla soda with Humphry Slocumbe’s root beer ice cream (in which I distinctly tasted ginger), topped with whipped cream and two boozy (soaked) cherries.

DRINK

• Bourbon & Branch does it again (no surprise) with a new Summer creation from bartender, Andrew Mitchell: a Favala ($12 - hint: they’re also serving it at fabulous Rickhouse, their second bar which just opened tonight!) This beauty is a refreshing burst of Cachaca, Mint, Lemon and Orange Bitters, that surprises with a hint of Arabica Syrup giving it a mint coffee finish. Hello!

• One of my favorite wineries, Matanzas Creek, with its complex wines, French owners and lavender fields, is always a dreamy respite for me. At a recent tasting, I sampled some lovely reserve and limited edition wines, but my favorite is the $29 bottle of complex and comforting 2007 Chardonnay, layered with pear and apples, creamy, with a mineral finish.

• Basil Canteen, where I go for a brick-walled, New York loft-like setting with my Thai food, has some fun cocktails. I really liked bartender, Russell’s, robust variation on an Old Fashioned ($9): Knob Creek w/ orange bitters, tangerine, a touch of lemongrass syrup.

• I gratefully took a Beretta bartender’s suggestion and ordered a Kentucky Mule ($9), a classic variation of their listed Agricole Mule, which I’d had a number of times before. Substituting rye whiskey for the Agricole’s rum, with a mix of ginger, mint and lime juice, makes a bright, smooth cocktail I’d have over and over again.

• At Masa’s, Master Sommelier, Alan Murray, knew the ideal pairing for each course, perfectly orchestrating a symphony of tastes from sake, to whites, reds and sparkling wines. Dessert reached an apex when he paired my Chocolate Sacher Torte with Bugey-Cerdon Sparkling Rose, Patrick Bottex’s “La Cueille”. This 80% Gamay/20% Poulsard blend from Savoie in eastern France, is a rosy beauty, sparkling with wild strawberries, not too sweet. Tangy acidity and the brightness of berries makes this one to please a range of palates.

• At a Nirvino party at RIGHT Gin’s chic SoMa Loft, Josh Harris, of 15 Romolo, shared two of his cocktails (happy a match is made between absinthe and strawberries), while Danny Louie, of Dosa, served a new creation that may make it’s way to the Dosa menu (ask for it!), The Peony: RIGHT gin, homemade Hibiscus Masala nectar (an enticing mix of black peppercorn, cumin, mustard seed, chili, hibiscus, coriander, sugar), lime juice, orange flower water, with a creamy touch of coconut milk and kaffir lime leaf garnish. Quite drinkable, I must say.

RN74… Michael Mina’s latest project, named after a highway running through Burgundy. Much has been said since its April 24 opening, most of it raving about the unparalleled 3000+ wine selection, heavy on the French, with treasures at every turn (and every price range). Responses to the food have been more mixed, including an early menu change that was actually a response to feedback on sizes being too small (I respect a restaurant that takes immediate action on input). I’ve also heard debate on it being “too fine dining” (those prices do add up), in “typical” Michael Mina fashion, for as casual a setting as it is, or if they should focus on small plates rather than multi-course options. Since I finished writing my review, Michael Bauer’s buzzed about three star review came out (on 6/28), giving it high marks.

Having been three times since opening week, for dinner (food priced at $9-31), lunch ($11-21) and in the bar, I’ve had a solid initial sampling, taking immediately to the industrial chic space with warm splashes of red and wine bottles highlighted on a French train station board. I find, in some ways, you can make RN74 what you want it to be, from special occasion meal to a post-work stop for bites with a glass of wine. I feel the space and service allow for all these scenarios.

The food? Well, a starter of  Smoked Sturgeon Rillettes ($9) is a pot of creamy heaven: smoky-fresh sturgeon mixed with creme fraiche, herbs, meyer lemon and toasts to spread it on. A highlight, to be sure.

Yes, I’m partial to Pork Belly, and RN74 does right by theirs, at turns decadently fatty and crispy. I had the dinner version ($19) with butter lettuce, cherries, pearl onion, black truffle cream and hazelnut vinaigrette.

Applewood-Smoked Sturgeon ($15) with fingerling potatoes (prefer the Sturgeon rillettes) and Italian Yellow Cornmeal & Mascarpone Agnolotti ($16) are both satisfying enough dishes, but what blew me away was the Foie Gras Terrine ($22). Currently, they’re serving it with Dijon mustard and grilled peach (works for me!), but when I had it, it was a divine melding of strawberry with buttery toasts, celery and poppy seed marmalade.  Sweet and silky.

A generous Organic Chicken Breast ($26) is pricey for what is certainly a less exciting meat, but trust them to elevate the bird: juicy, enlivened with fennel, apricots, brioche bread pudding, green peppercorns and watercress.

But, oh, those scallops! A supremely done scallop has to be one of the finer things and at dinner, three hefty, perfectly-cooked Maine Sea Scallops ($29) with tender Rancho Gordo beans, grilled Swiss chard, Meyer lemon were a among the best I’ve ever had. RN74’s Foie Gras and Scallops could follow me home and I would not turn them away.

Then there’s the wines… many a better expert than myself can wax eloquent about the glories residing in RN74’s extensive wine list from brilliant Sommelier and French wine expert, Rajat Parr. Some may get a rush from seeing the last remaining bottle disappear off the train station sign after they order it. I felt privileged to taste truly exceptional wines by the glass I can’t afford by the bottle (though there are many reasonably-priced bottles). Since my goal was to taste wines I may not always get to, my top picks (barring the Tissot Classique) are on the pricier end, but, once again, there’s a range on the menu:

• 2005 Vincent Girardin Puligny-Montrachet Chardonnay from Burgundy ($8.50 taste/$17 glass) - Citrus crisp with notes of rose and vanilla.
• 2006 Tissot Classique Arbois Chardonnay from Jura, France ($6 taste/$12 glass) - Reasonably priced but intriguingly complex and spicy; tops for taste vs. value… and from a woman winemaker, no less.
• 2004 Domaine Lejeune Pommard “Poutures” 1er Cru from Burgundy ($10 taste/$20 glass) - For someone who can tend to find many California Pinots, for lack of a better term, bland (I usually prefer Zins, Syrahs, Cabs), this French Pinot blew me away with subtle cherry and plum notes and an earthy mushroom complexity. Nothing like any other Pinot I’ve tasted.
• 2004 Betts & Scholl Hermitage Syrah from Rhone, France ($9.50 taste/$19 glass) - This captivating wine (92 points in Wine Spectator) has butter almond notes with a creamy finish.

Cocktails didn’t fare as well with me, though none I tried were poor by any means. All nice, they didn’t quite stack up to the ever-growing list of craft cocktails to be had in this town. At least, not yet. Ingredients are of top quality and recipes intriguing - it’s just not a cocktail destination. Especially with all the wines you must try!

Desserts ($9 each) are a happy finish, though not as striking as starters and entrees: I like tart Kumquat Confiture with coriander sponge cake, yogurt and white verjus sorbet, or rich Chocolate Delice with roasted banana and brown butter cashew ice cream.

Though costly, a meal at hip-but-low-key RN74 is cheaper than Michael Mina’s flagship and namesake fine dining destination (which remains a special occasion favorite for me).  If money is no object, there are dozens of revelatory taste discoveries here. For the rest of us, it’s a place to escape into vino bliss (from Mr. Parr to the waitstaff, trust them with informed wine recommendations), whether treated as a wine bar with fine food accompaniments or a fine restaurant with a stellar wine list.

Fried Green Tomatoes at FISH

SAVORY - VEGETARIAN

• There are a number of Burmese gems in SF (see last month’s Top Tastes), but I’ve been getting my lunch lately at a little alley Burmese restaurant that’s quite tasty: Yellow Pa Taut. Traditional Tea Leaf or Ginger Salad ($9.95 each) are treated well here (ask for the Ginger Salad without dried shrimps if you’re a vegetarian). Some curries are a little oily, but savory and filling, with lots of fluffy rice.

• You wouldn’t expect culinary adventure in a nightclub, would you? I sure didn’t, which is why Brian Beach’s (formerly at Aqua and Cosmopolitan) recently launched menu at Infusion Lounge is a pleasant surprise. “Whimsical” ($9) is technically not vegetarian since the ice cream is made with bacon, but there’s no actual meat in this daring, well-executed dish: 63-degree egg with bacon ice cream, chive and sourdough toasts. The cream of the egg and ice cream meld into one savory, lush mix. Paired with a peppery Santa Carolina Carmenere from Chile ($7 a

glass), a smoky essence explodes. I felt like I was having breakfast… or maybe BBQ (see “Seafood” for another great dish.)

• 54 Mint, helmed by New York’s Il Buco chef, now an SF transplant, serves up some filling Italian fare. I love the delicate Octopus Carpaccio ($10) and was comfortingly filled by Arancina di Carne ($10 - rice ball stuffed with ragout), but it was the Caponata ($8), eggplant ratatouille with sweet, grilled peppers and onions, that lingered with me.

• Flour+Water may be yet another artisan pizza, pasta, charcuterie spot, but I still found worthwhile tastes, even if there are better pizzas around town (theirs still works, especially the Uovo/egg pizza, $15). There’s a bright, fresh Summer Squash Salad ($10) with duck prosciutto, toasted pistachio and vibrant basil leaves. I was especially struck by Sweet Pea & Ricotta Tortelli ($16) enlivened by mint, Meyer lemon and pig cracklings for some crisp (vegetarians, ask for it without the latter). PS - Kudos to the Paxton Gate-like bathroom display from Paxton’s designer, Sean Quigley.

SAVORY - MEAT

• In the wood and brass bar area of Grand Cafe, happy hour is a pleasure with a glass of wine or a cocktail (like Elphaba’s Wicked Emerald-tini: Hendrick’s Gin, Ciroc Vodka, St. Germain Elderflower, basil, cucumber, lemongrass syrup, $10 or $6 at happy hour… one of three inspired by “Wicked” at nearby Orpheum). Gougere d’ Escargots ($9), essentially escargot sliders in Chartreuse-garlic-parsley butter, go down like juicy jewels on puff pastry.

•  Little Skillet has been a good time from day one. How can I resist chicken & waffles from an alley walk-up window? They just went up a notch in my book by feeding my love of Cheese Grits with or without Andouille Sausage (with, thank you very much!) With maple syrup mixed in, there’s a hint of sweet to the savory, smooth cup o’ grits.

• Yes, Korean tacos and burritos risk getting played-out, but not yet in our city - and in an internet cafe? Slipping into Golden Gate Perk for a Spicy Pork Taco ($3) doused in lime is transporting - feels like I’m 23 and backpacking alone through Europe again… minus the Korean tacos. Low ceilings, top-40 hip hop playing (rock on, Kanye’s “Amazing“), sweet Korean owners, and European clientele checking email. But the best part is that these are damn good tacos - an ideal balance of meat and kimchi.

• On opening day lunch at new gourmet BBQ haven in FiDi, Wexler’s, I dug the minimalist, European-bistro reminiscent space, draft beer list (Allegash, Ommegang, hooray!) and uber-fresh Monterey Bay Squid Salad ($9) with chunks of fried green tomato (yeah!), pickled Fresno chilis and frisee. The 4505 Meats Mission Dog ($11) with bacon works (wanted it wrapped in bacon instead of bacon chunks), but I could just keep eating the “Sloppy Joe” ($12). Despite being engulfed in Acme bread, it was loaded with savory, tender Texas-style burnt ends, considered a delicacy as choice cuts of brisket. Read more in my SF Bay Guardian Appetite column.

SAVORY - SEAFOOD

• “Transcendence” ($13) is just that at Infusion Lounge. A thrill of a take on a BLT, with the flavor profile of a BLT but one creative path to get there! Hiramasa (yellowtail kingfish) is splayed out sashimi-style, tomato gelee to the side, topped with a frozen sorbet scoop of, yes, iceberg lettuce and pea shoots. The plate is streaked with Wasabi mayo, dusted with bacon powder. Brian Beach’s possibility and passion show in these kinds of dishes… and it happens at a nightclub (see “Vegetarian” for his Whimsical egg dish). Slip in post-work during happy hour (till 8pm with discounted drinks) for the unexpected.

• A Sunday afternoon at FISH is always idyllic. Seafood at picnic tables, sittin’ on the docks as houseboats squeak in the water, sipping beer from a mason jar. The good life (albeit at a price - sandwiches are $25, y’all! But portions are huge, so share!) On a radiant blue Sunday, I blissfully ordered Monterey Sardines ($14) from the specials board - plump, with lemon squeezed over them, their silver grilled skins shimmering in the sun atop a huge salad.

SWEET

• At Supperclub’s rousing Uber Dinner II on June 1, Jamie Lauren (Absinthe, Top Chef) and Jennie Lorenzo (Fifth Floor), prepared a one-night only 4-course feast with Guus Wickenhagen, Supperclub’s Exec Chef. Besides being one sensual experience of show, massage, food, drink, lounging, music, dance, it was fun to see what each chef created, my dessert rave for the night being Lorenzo’s Black Licorice Candy Parfait with strawberries. Tasted like an absinthe and berries cream - exquisite! Once the sparkling, blue bunny came out and the place erupted into a spontaneous dance party, it officially became a Monday night to remember.

DRINK

• Oh, boy. Coffee at darling, closet-sized Farm: Table is one non-stop joy. From a Tendernob (their version of a Gibraltar and ode to the ‘hood) to a bitter, strong espresso, it’s all beautiful, using Verve Coffee Roasters from Santa Cruz. Paired with apricot bread pudding or grapefruit bread as you sit in the picturesque window or sidewalk tables, feels like the best of a European lifestyle.

• Two vinos I especially enjoyed at Flour+Water are Anselmi’s San Vicenzo from Veneto ($7 glass/$28 bottle), a bright garganega white with hints of peach and nuts. A 2004 Di Bruno Sangiovese from Santa Barbara’s Stolpman Vineyard ($11.50 glass/$45 bottle) is smooth with smoky, cherry notes.

• Domaine Chandon hosted a fabulous Art of the Cocktail party on June 4 with DJ Dukes playing the tunes we all want to dance to (morphed into quite the dance party, let me tell you!) on Chandon’s scenic open-air tasting room and back patio.  NOPA’s Neyah White was the perfect guest bartender creating champagne cocktails using Chandon’s sparkling wines. A number of highlights, my top taste was his cardamom-infused cocktail. Sparkling wine, cocktail attire and great music under the stars makes for a truly magical Napa Summer evening. Join me at the next one?