“The trees down the boulevard stand naked in thought.
Their abundant summery wordage silenced caught
In the grim undertow, naked the trees confront
Implacable winters long crossquestioning brunt.”

- D.H. Lawrence, Winter in the Boulevard, 1916

February is the month of love…or so they say.  As always, I think it appropriate to celebrate with those you love, whatever month it is, over food – whether celebrating love of a partner, friends or life.

My Top Tastes of the month:

• Coconut Curry Mussels and Frites at North Beach’s La Trappe - paired with Belgian Ale, of course
• Cappuccinos at brand new Coffee Bar in the Mission, serving Mr. Espresso coffee
• Gumbo (with crab legs, shrimp, Andouille sausage; $19.50 for a huge bowl) at Hunter’s Point dive bar, Monte Carlo (1705 Yosemite at 3rd Street; 415-822-7338); lunch only but call ahead to make sure the cook is in
• Serpentine’s Savory Bread Pudding
• Brussel Sprouts at SPQR !

This month in Night on the Town, I share favorite Valentine’s (or any other time) spots. Take a Saturday morning excursion through Oakland in Around the Bay. In Wandering Traveler, I continue through Switzerland’s restaurants.

I’d love your feedback on any spots you visited from my site. You can leave comments through the site on the Perfect Spot Blog or email me directly.

Let me guide you to the perfect spot!

~ Virginia

Valentine’s

I think Valentines as we know it is lame, with true love reduced to teddy bears, cherubs, bad chocolates… and overcrowded restaurants with ridiculously costly “special” menus that have become synonymous with a Valentine’s date. So if you ask me, I would avoid going out that night at all. But I just might go out some other time this month to celebrate love in my own way: peaceably, over superb food and wine, maybe at one of these fine establishments:

Cafe Jacqueline

Café Jacqueline: 1454 Grant Avenue (between Green and Union Streets), 415-981-5565, Wed-Sun 5:30-11pm – Yes, you will eat soufflé for dinner AND dessert – and wait about an hour for each soufflé… but could you ask for a better way to go? Since lingering is (or should be) the point, this place, with simple, candlelit environs, will force you to do just that. Jacqueline herself handcrafts each soufflé until they come out piping-hot perfection. All are for sharing, more than large enough for two. Savory soufflés include Spinach & Gruyere or White Corn, Ginger & Garlic ($35 range). Splurge for Crab or Lobster versions (around $55). Dessert brings more decadence with Key Lime, Strawberry and, of course, Chocolate soufflés, among others. Don’t come here for anything but soufflé… the reason for Café Jacqueline’s long existence.

Firefly: – Make reservations now at this perennial classic. Though the menu changes regularly (but for their famed gourmet Fried Chicken and Buttermilk Biscuits), after dozens of visits over the years, I’ve never had a bad dish (entrees range from $16-$25). The ultimate neighborhood restaurant, Firefly is worth visiting any time and books up fast. Service is warm and accommodating, as are the cozy dining rooms, ideal for intimate conversation over the best in upscale comfort food. Save room for dessert!

Bix

Bix: - For a classic vibe of the 1930’s Supper Club kind (including live jazz most evenings), Bix offers swanky digs off a Financial District alley for added mystique. Make sure to reserve an upstairs table in the high-ceilinged room overlooking the action below. Cocktails are a focus with a menu offering classic American fare (first courses from $9.95-$15.75; entrees from $19.75-$39.50). Though I think it’s definitely overpriced, especially compared to other options in this range, their food is solid to great and the speakeasy vibe makes it a romantic rendezvous.

worthy mention: I was going to recommend glowingly intimate Clementine, until I heard it was just sold to nearby Chapeau! and will be closed a few weeks for renovations. I hope they don’t greatly alter the interior as it’s one of the most romantic bistros in the city, though no worries about the food staying superb with Chapeau’s chef at the helm.

Saturday Morning in Oakland

A morning excursion across the Bay Bridge provides many pleasures… here are merely a couple of my favorite non-restaurant food stops in Oaktown:

Bakesale Betty’s:
5098 Telegraph Avenue (at 51st Street)
Oakland, CA 94609
510-985-1213
www.bakesalebetty.com
Hours
Monday: 7am-3pm
Tuesday-Saturday: 7am-7pm

Yes, we San Franciscans have a wealth of bakery options, including near legendary Tartine, which I am thrilled to frequent. But if I had my way, I’d make Bakesale Betty’s my neighborhood bakery (for some lucky souls, it is!) The “menu” (there is none per se) changes but is simple: usually less than ten items, baked that day, each one… flawless.

Their scones are the best I’ve ever had. Scones are often dense and leaded, but these are flaky, melt-in-the-mouth as well as dense. Flavors change, including lemon-raisin, pear-ginger… it doesn’t matter. It’s ALL good! Seasonal pies, cakes and cookies round out the buttery goodness.

You’ll hear paeans of praise to their famed Buttermilk Fried Chicken sandwich, which even first thing in the morning are being assembled by the dozens: crispy, peppery fried chicken on a soft roll with a jalapeno slaw (not spicy, seedless). I could jump on the bandwagon but for one slight complaint: without mayo or sauce, it is a little dry. But that shouldn’t stop you – I’d take one for breakfast or lunch anytime!

If the pleasure of stellar baked goods isn’t enough, playful ironing board tables lining the sidewalk give it a down-home feel, and the ultra-friendly staff is a highlight of an already great place. Every time I go, they always give me a free slice of pie, cake or a cookie on top of my order. Oh, Betty! If only you were my neighbor…

Taylor’s Sausages:
907 Washington Street (between 9th and 10th Streets in the Housewives’ Market)
Oakland, CA 94607
510-832-6448
Hours
Monday-Saturday: 9:00am-6:00pm

When the Renaissance Man and I want to grill up our own sausages instead of visiting our beloved Rosamunde Sausage Grill in the Lower Haight, we head to Taylor’s, our cooler packed with ice (since we do have to cross the Bay to get them), to buy some of the best sausages in existence at Oakland’s historic Housewives’ Market.

This place is hardcore – just watch them grind up raw meat, as you pick out sausages to take home. Even freezing sausages to grill weeks later takes nothing away from their amazing flavor. We serve them in a soft roll topped with grilled onions and our favorite mustards from Healdsburg’s Hop Kiln Winery. Paired with an ice-cold beer, we enter a higher level of food heaven.

I adore Taylor’s Boudin Blanc, a New Orleans’ specialty: white sausage with rice. Other greats include a spicy Cajun Chicken, Louisiana Hot Sausage and the Italian… you really can’t go wrong.

DINING IN SWITZERLAND

Dining pleasures are boundless in this stunning country… cheese and chocolate may be the items that come to the uninformed mind, but if you dine at a noteworthy restaurant in most Swiss cities or villages, you’ll also experience savory meats, the freshest of lake fish, generous vegetables, and always… clean, fresh cooking.

LUCERNE

Lucern

After two visits, Lucerne remains my favorite Swiss city. Though small as big cities go and hardly cosmopolitan, it is chic, intimate, charming. Staying in Old Town is necessary to experience the full allure of the city, as many outlying streets hold wonderful gems but aren’t as stimulating visually. Old Town is a car free zone of cobblestone streets, extensive shops, cafes, famed bridges, all on a glistening lake.

Pfistern: English menu found by clicking “Kuche”, then “Menuvorschlage”) – Though in a 1300’s building with original painted façade, the mobbed sidewalk tables made me fear: “touristy”. Not so. Inside, it’s peaceful and pub-like, if a bit musty. On the upstairs deck, there are quieter outdoor tables (with that gorgeous lake view). Salads are fresh, loaded with lentils, beans, tomatoes. I love classic regional dishes like Aechtes Lozarner Chugelipastetli, a puff pastry stuffed with mushrooms, pork, veal and raisins in a creamy sauce. Mmm! The crème-de-la-crème is Butterfish Medallions. Fresh from the lake, they’re a buttery revelation served with herbed rice and a hefty portion of pistachios, almonds, pine nuts and orange slices. The salty nuts, light citrus juice and texture of the fish make for a flawless dish.

Brassiere Bodu: Kornmarkt 5 (Plz 6004), Lucerne, 041-410-0177, – An elegant French bistro in the heart of Old Town, literally next door to Pfistern, Bodu’s excellent service sets the tone for an enchanting meal of classic French cuisine. A whole fish, fresh from a nearby lake, was perfectly baked with onions and herbs stuffed in its stomach. Quiche, steak and salads were all flawless. The wine list is award-winning and Bordeaux focused. Paired with the classic French dishes, it makes for one of Lucerne’s best meals.

MONTREUX

Montreux

Paradise Le Chalet: After a fruitless Sunday night search for an open restaurant, I stumbled across this touristy fondue spot, entering with trepidation. What followed was a surprisingly delightful fondue meal of lush melted cheese paired with thinly sliced meats, pickled vegetables, a delightful local Swiss white wine, Fendant, and a shot of Kirsch (cherry liqueur, similar to brandy) mid-meal to aid in digestion of all that cheese.

MURREN

An idyllic village a cable car ride up the mountain from divine Gimmelwald, Murren provided restaurants when we needed a break from cooking in our Gimmelwald cabin.

Alpenruh: Service is harried at this touristy chalet but never a better view was had with your food and drink. Sitting outside on the deck, breathe in mountain air and sigh with your good fortune to witness such an incomparable view. You can’t go wrong with local beers on tap and traditional Swiss fare such as Rosti and Alpen Pasta, baked with caramelized onions and gruyere cheese, which we saw regularly on regional menus. An ideal lunch spot.

Bellevue Hotel: For more gourmet local food, visit the Bellevue. We sat outside on the deck, again taking in that magnificent scenery (Alpenruh has a better panoramic perch but Alpine views everywhere are nothing short of ethereal). Washed down with a Swiss Apfelwein (hard Apple Cider), one of the best dishes of my Switzerland travels was traditional Rosti, or hash browns, served with sausages, topped with a fried egg, bacon, cheese and a golden onion sauce. Sheer decadence. Other good dishes: hearty beef and mashed potatoes in red wine gravy, and spaghetti with veal medallions (breaded, schnitzel style) in a red pepper olive sauce. We finished up with a tart filled with plump blackberries and raspberries, topped with homemade cream.

Murren