“Reviewing has never struck me as having much to do with assigning scores or handing out demerits.  The reviewer’s job – and pleasure – is akin to any reader’s. It is the pleasure of talk.  If nobody talks about books [or the suject of review], if they are not discussed or somehow contended with, literature ceases to be a conversation, ceases to be dynamic.” –  Patricia Hampl, “I Could Tell You Stories”

Gorgeous sunny days with pristine blue sky, people dot the lush green of Dolores Park, smells from neighbors’ BBQs waft through my window. Spring is here…

My Top Tastes of the month:

• Perfect Meyer Lemon Gelato Pie in a Graham Cracker crust with white vinegar sauce drizzled atop it at Hollywood’s latest hot spot, Pizzeria Mozza
• Crawfish Beignets at Brenda’s French Soul Food – I keep coming back for more!
• Ham & Caramelized Onion Pizza at The Pizza Place on Noriega
• Crab Momos with Tomato Cilantro Chutney at Metro Kathmandu
• Cherry or Strawberry Cheese Rolls at Russian Cinderella’s Bakery

This month in Featured Neighborhood, we’ll visit two of San Francisco’s hidden gems in Portola. I share favorite dishes at the Mission’s newest Latino fusion, Lolo, in The Latest. Through Wandering Traveler, load up on beef in Oklahoma City.

I’d love your feedback on any spots you visited from my site. You can leave comments through the site on the Perfect Spot Blog or email me directly.

Let me guide you to the perfect spot!

Virginia

LOLO

3230 22nd Street (between Mission and Bartlett) San Francisco, CA 94107
415-643-5656
Hours: Tuesday-Thursday: 5:30-10pm
Friday-Saturday: 5:30-11pm

Yet another “fusion” restaurant, nonetheless Lolo has captured my fancy as a great Mission addition and a step above the average Nuevo Latino spot. Combining cuisines of the owners’ homelands of Mexico and Turkey (with an unwitting touch of Asia?), Lolo’s servers are affable, aiming to please. The décor is inviting, funky, colorful… all made from recycled materials. Bright fabrics line the couch along the wall, with eye-catching wallpaper, paintings, knickknacks, and cute, retro lawn benches out front. The place feels ‘homemade with love’, appropriate for the Mission’s creative spirit, without looking too grunge or garage sale.

If you focus more on small plates, the real highlight here, you’ll savor delicious, unusual dishes. The much hyped menu king is Panko-breaded shrimp “tacos” with chipotle aioli and tropical fruit relish ($8), which may not sound revolutionary, but on a tortilla shaped sheet of jicama, delivers a surprising burst of crisp flavor. The downside? You only get two to an order. Pistachio Salmon is another favorite of mine: crunchy on the outside, seared inside, with an ideal accompaniment of wasabi cream and ponzu sauce. The Huitlacoche & Ricotta Dumplings are paired well with a fluffy corn sauce, even if the idea of eating Huitlacoche fungus, otherwise charmingly known as “corn smut”, throws some off. Dubbed by the James Beard Foundation as “the Mexican Truffle”, a more appealing term for corn fungus, Huitlacoche, paired with ricotta, is a unique, mild, taste experience. The breaded Baked Brie pops with a delectable hibiscus-juajillo sauce.

On the entrée side, I like Duck Confit Tacos ($15), though the portion is too small to fill the hot, homemade tortillas (more confit, please?) The dish is perfectly simple, accompanied by cilantro and a piquant sauce. Grass-fed Flank Steak is charcoal-grilled and served with crispy tortilla strips, but its strawberry peach mole tasted neither like strawberry or peach, though still pleasing.

Wines by the glass are overpriced, hovering in the teens, so imbibe Tuesdays and Wednesdays when they’re discounted 30%. Forgoing wine, I like a not-on-the-menu creation they call “Madre”, a refreshing, generous blend of white wine with strawberry, orange and cranberry juices.

If Lolo could work out minor issues such as price vs. portion size (none of the dishes need be much bigger than they are – just a slight increase would do), this could easily become not only a great neighborhood joint but a unique destination serving dishes with flare and flavor so memorable, you’ll want to experience them again.

PORTOLA

When I mention Portola as an SF neighborhood, most locals look confused. Like me, you probably don’t spend a lot of time eating south of Bernal Heights. But I’ve kept quiet for too long about two gems full of dingy charm on San Bruno Avenue. In the midst of Asian food hole-in-the-walls, fast food joints, banks and ethnic markets, lies these two delicious, thankfully unhip food havens:

Breakfast at Tiffany’s
2499 San Bruno Avenue (between Felton St & Thornton Ave) 415-468-0977

When I want sheer comfort with a side of 1970′s blue collar camaraderie (and Audrey Hepburn looking on from a faded poster), I head to Breakfast at Tiffany’s. Did I mention it’s cheap, hearty and unpretentious? Servers call you “hon” as Beach Boys play on cassette tape (no lie!) I sip coffee under Audrey’s watchful eye. Leave it to Ms. Hepburn to brighten up cheap wood paneling. But this dingy dive is not merely ironic.

There’s massive plates of French toast and egg scrambles, though I particularly love Tiffany’s pancakes loaded with fresh blueberries. They taste even better after you’ve sat at the counter, watching them transform on the griddle from batter to fluffy cakes. For savory contrast (if you have room), I go for hash brown “sandwiches” stuffed with ham, cheese, onions. Layered between a massive of crispy shredded potatoes, it defines bad-for-you-goodness. The setting feels straight out a movie: the classic diner or truck stop where everyone seems to know each other, treating you as if you’re regular… even if it’s your first visit.

Johnson’s Barbecue
2646 San Bruno Avenue (between Bacon & Burrows Streets) 415-468-0977

For this avowed BBQ lover, I have to admit SF isn’t exactly swimming in BBQ joints reminiscent of the Deep South. I’ve yet to find much that resembles the joys found in my two week road trip through four Southern states eating BBQ in each. There are a few gems here, of course, the best outside the city: Uncle Frank’s in Mountain View.

One of my city favorites is Johnson’s, also on San Bruno Ave right by Breakfast at Tiffany’s. This is Arkansas style BBQ… when they say their sauce is hot, they mean it.

Lunch is a deal: for $6.75, I get a half order of the “pork sandwich” plus two sides (coleslaw, baked beans, yams, etc…), which is actually a huge heaping of BBQ pulled pork over a slice of bread (worth it even if you don’t want the bread!) They serve ribs, catfish, oxtails, links and more. I have to say the dingy environment is not appealing, though authentically like many of the best BBQ joints in the South.

OKLAHOMA CITY

I realize Oklahoma is far from a culinary mecca and I do struggle to find noteworthy meals here. Variety and quality are not standards in any area but one: beef. Similar to neighboring Texas, OK has tasty beef everywhere, from steakhouses to BBQ (albeit sadly not grass fed or humanely raised in most cases). If you find yourself in the OK state, here are local gems I frequent when visiting family:

Red Prime Steak: A welcome addition to downtown Oklahoma City (from the owners of wonderful Iron Starr) in a converted, 100 year old brick building, this spot may signal a welcome upswing in OKC dining? Yes, it’s steak again (where, oh where, is any authentic or creative Asian or Indian, to start?), but Red Prime takes traditional steakhouse fare, infusing it with modern playfulness. Though some drinks fall short of their vision, the cocktail menu at least attempts unique drinks, if none I tried actually succeeded. Enter the strikingly artistic, if cavernously chilly warehouse dining room, in reds and blacks with hanging “walls” making a pathway down the center. Playful starters please the tastebuds, such as mini-Sloppy Joe’s or Fried Green Tomatoes served Caprese-style with fresh mozzarella and basil. Steaks (at big city prices of $29-$45) are done to perfection accompanied by your choice of intriguing crusts (such as fresh cracked pepper, coffee, Maytag blue cheese) or sauces (like brandy mushroom, creamy horseradish or roasted poblano chimichurri). For non-red meat eaters, Fried Chicken is tender and crispy in just the right way, and seafood dishes are good but not as strong as the steaks (this isn’t seafood territory!) “Accessories”, or sides, come in huge portions and are excellent: Blue Cheese Biscuit Pudding – wow! Smoked Bacon Creamed Corn, another highlight. It’s pricey but you get plenty of food so, by all means, share.

Iron Starr: Probably my favorite spot when in OK for its affordability and consistent quality. Casual and tasty, Iron Starr freshens-up traditional BBQ and Southern food. Go ahead and order spicy Prairie Fries smothered in jalapenos and sweet Texas onions or Chili topped with cheddar cheese and red chili crème fraiche. I get the “lite” portion (still hefty) of Pulled Pork Smoked Plate (choose between Pork, Beef Brisket, Turkey or Sausage), then, with difficulty, narrow it down to two of the top notch sides (mac n’ cheese, slaw, baked beans). Indulge in Buttermilk Pie or Key Lime Pie for dessert. The brick-walled dining room with funky, colorful paintings is spacious, laid back, modern.

Ranch Steak House: If you’re not burnt out on steak yet (even if you are, best to stick with what’s good), and your wallet holds an extra wad of cash, you’d do well to visit this OKC classic. Around for many years, it provides what they call an “Old West” dining experience. Dining rooms show simple elegance, in dark woods and browns, and service is friendly, livening up what could be a staid atmosphere. Again, steak is king (a $23-$53 price range) with sizes large enough for a few (22 oz., anyone?) They serve surprisingly fresh Lobster from Australia with melted butter. Traditional sides and salads are simple and satisfying at this celebratory restaurant.

Redrock Canyon Grill: Though I am reluctant to mention a chain restaurant, this Kansas/Oklahoma based chain has only three locations in entirety (others in Tulsa and Wichita), so with narrower options for great food here, I’ll make an exception and steer you here. The Oklahoma City locale sits idyllically on a lake, gorgeous at sunset. Massive portions of hearty food, like skillet cornbread, tender rotisserie chicken, impeccable ribs, or perfectly tart key lime pie, make this a local highlight. Unless you can eat enough for three, be sure to share – portions are gigantic!