(After describing a long, multi-course meal)… “The magic would have happened, and we’d sit for a long time with our elbows on the table, talking easily, hearing and seeing more than we had for some time because of the way we’d tasted more.” – M.F.K. Fisher (from “Shall it Be…Eating or Dining?”, 1944)

Fall is ushered in with September… my favorite time of year: for eating, travel, cozy nights at home or blustery excursions around the city and Wine Country.

Slow Food Nation, the biggest food event in US History, just wrapped up here in our fair city, and though unable to hit all the dozens of daily activities, what I did experience left me optimistic about the state of food in the Bay Area and the country. I hit the Civic Center Marketplace two days in a row to repeat a breakfast of Benton’s ultra-salty ham on made-on-the-spot biscuits, perfectly offset with homemade jam (wild blackberry one day; the next, strawberry) from Tennessee. Then, a hefty Muffaletta sandwich made by Armandino Batali (Mario’s Dad), with cured meats (ginger garlic and spicy mole) from his Seattle storefront. One of the weekend’s best eats was Fatted Calf’s juicy sausage with grilled onions and peppers on an Acme bun. Samples were endless from dozens of tents and tables, with delights like Gilroy’s Van Dyke Ranch Blenheim Apricot Jam, balanced sweet/tart Elephant Heart Plums from Blossom Bluff Orchards, or the ever perfect Frog Hollow Peaches. Alice (Waters, of course) and Gavin roamed among us at the Marketplace followed by cameras, discussing the nationwide foods represented, presented even more fully in the Fort Mason Taste Pavilions.

This month, I share my Top Tastes: favorite new dishes, drinks and bites from my culinary explorations. In Featured Neighborhood, I lead you to just a few of the treasures of Outer Richmond. Wandering Traveler highlights my recent trip to Jackson Hole, Wyoming.

I’d love your feedback on any spots you visited from my site. You can leave comments through the site on the Perfect Spot Blog or email me directly.

Let me guide you to the perfect spot!

Virginia

BREAKFAST

Luxurious brunch at my fave 1300 on Fillmore; order a generous entrée portion of Barbecue Shrimp & Creamy Grits (one of their best dishes, $14), perfect Scones (Three: Lemon, Blueberry, Raisin w/ Strawberry Rhubarb Preserves, $4), or a Hang Town Fry with egg, fried oysters (yes!), potato, bacon and toast ($9).

SAVORY – VEGETARIAN

At slick new Urban Tavern, I dined two nights after opening and service was earnestly attentive. The food? Entrees were good to mediocre for the price, while appetizers and cocktails all hit a home run… so my first/early take is go to the lounge/bar area for drinks and apps; my favorite app was a Special-of-the-day: comforting Tomato Bisque with Crème Fraiche, Basil, Red Pepper, EVOO, with a Provolone Grilled Cheese Sandwich layered with a sweet honey to dunk in the soup… if only I could have this when I’m sick, it would cure all ($8).

Using the best Anson Mills’ grains, a rich Polenta ($6) topped with your choice of Grana, Mascarpone or Gorgonzola at one of Oakland’s best neighborhood restaurants, the heartwarming (if mobbed) Pizzaiolo.

Over the years, I’ve eaten at well over a dozen restaurants in Burlingame but have yet to find much beyond suburban mediocrity (“best” options are local chains that originated in SF, like Straits Café). A new Burmese spot, Mingalaba isn’t going to change the fact that one needn’t venture from the city to dine here (Burma Superstar, even Nan Yang or Mandalay, it ain’t!) Many dishes are basically Americanized Chinese (Honey Walnut Prawns, anyone?), but if in town, Burmese Mango Salad ($8.50) is a refreshing traditional dish, with slivers of mango, cucumber, green pepper, onion, fried garlic chips, cilantro.

SAVORY – MEAT and SEAFOOD

One of my favorite restaurants in SF, the surprisingly still under-the-radar (though not according to Michelin or Michael Bauer’s 3-star rating), ever inventive, decadent Bushi-Tei. I adore their mainstay appetizer, Lobster & Crab Salad (fresh chunks of meat, $18) with Chrysanthemum leaf lettuce, papaya, bacon, tossed in ginger cream and curry oil.

Cheesy Shrimp and Grits with Roasted Tomato and Bacon ($9) – a Special at Brenda’s French Soul Food, SF’s New Orleans’ gem. Oh, Brenda, please put this hearty, satisfying dish on your permanent menu! It’s one of the best things I’ve eaten there since it opened.

Coffee Roasted Duck Breast in Port Cinnamon Sauce on a bed of diced Caramelized Pear and Fingerling Potatoes ($25) – a surprisingly balanced, sweet/savory entree at Oola.

SNACK

Crispy Calamari with Preserved Meyer Lemon Remoulade ($10) at Level III in JW Marriott’s gorgeous, entire third floor bar/ restaurant, a classy, roomy space, with intriguing nooks and elegant couches – linger post-work with a fab half-price Happy Hour menu (4-7pm).

SWEET

Chewy Ginger Molasses cookies with chunks of crystallized Australian ginger from the incomparable Bakesale Betty’s.

DRINK

Clover Coffee at Coffee Bar – One of SF’s best cafes, serving excellent Mr. Espresso or an amazing cup of coffee made in a crazy expensive Clover machine from your choice of ever changing beans. You can drink your way around the world (Kenya, Papua New Guinea), as they freshly grind and brew each individual cup – the right way to start the day.

Minero Cocktail at NOPA – an herbal, aromatic, unique Pisco-based drink made with Quebranta Pisco, St. Germain, Lemon Juice, Egg White, Sunshine Bitters ($9).

Subtly sweet and smoky, smooth house-made Longan Juice (a fruit similar to lychees in appearance and texture; $3) at Basil Canteen, SoMa’s brand new Thai spot in the gorgeous space that was The Public.

Outer Richmond, Part One

You’re out in the ‘wilds’ of the Richmond, near the ocean or the Presidio… in the midst of housing grids where restaurants seem infrequent and predominantly Asian. But there’s way more to the Richmond than its fabulous array of authentic, cheap Asian food. Like just about every neighborhood in the city, Outer Richmond holds treasures aplenty, varied and affordable, if you know where to look.

CAFES/TEA & COFFEE

Bazaar Café: One of my favorite quirky, personality-filled cafes, it’s too bad the drinks are just ok. Decent coffee, tea, and pastries warm up a morning or evening. But come for the idyllic neighborhood café setting, to linger over conversation, a good book, or to write. Inside it’s eclectic and homey, with storytelling nights or sing-a-long/open mics around the piano. The back patio is a magic secret garden that makes you wish it was your own backyard. It almost feels like it is…

Tal-y-tara: With another delightful back garden and impeccable British tea, this Polo Shop/Tea Haven is a unique place you cannot find the equal to anywhere. The owners of this family run shop are amazing people who will make you feel like old friends stopping in for a ‘spot of tea’.

BBQ

Ironwood BBQ: Randomly situated on a golf course in Golden Gate Park, next to the Archery Field (with parking!) this unexpected BBQ mecca offers some of SF’s best Pulled Pork, Brisket and homemade BBQ Sauce. Using a rare Wham Turbo BBQ Pit from Memphis, meats are 100% oak-wood fired. You can order juicy Ribs or Chicken but I’m a Pulled Pork girl first, and theirs does not disappoint. Sit outside overlooking the golfing green, whether foggy or sunny, for a unique experience of down home BBQ by the ocean in GG Park. I’ve been happily going since they opened, as this is one of SF’s lesser-known food havens.

MOROCCAN & MIDDLE EASTERN

Aziza: Pricey for the Richmond, Aziza, with finely subdued Moroccan décor, is recognized citywide for its Moroccan cuisine and well-crafted cocktails. Chicken & Almond Bastilla (they call it Basteeya; $18) is exquisitely flaky, sweet, savory. They haveFig Lamb Chops ($26), Rabbit with Dried Cherries ($24), Vegetarian ($17) or Meat ($21) Couscous platters and a range of intriguing small plates, such asWatermelon with Honey, Feta, Rosemary, Honeydew ($9). Cocktails ($10) explore the herbal and exotic with The Tarragon (made with Cachaca and aromatic, floating Cardamom Pods), or The Kumquat balanced with Rum and Thyme. There’s also extensive wines, beers and teas for the cocktail-averse.

El Mansour: Not as experimental as Aziza, I almost prefer that it’s a more traditional Moroccan meal, though by no means staid. Reminiscent of feasts I actually had in Morocco (note: you’ll be eating every course with your hands), sink into low, pillow-drenched couches in a vibrantly colorful, tent-like draped room, until first course (and belly dancer) appears. The whole experience is transporting. Prix Fixe menus are the only option so come prepared for a multi-course event – a fabulous place to bring a group. My full review: www.theperfectspotsf.com/archive/sep_07/established.html.

Layaly: (2435 Clement Street at 25th Ave; 415-668-1676; Lunch/Dinner) – Another Outer Richmond surprise, this affordable mid-range Middle Eastern/ Mediterranean café serves classic hummus, Mezze platters, Kabobs and beyond in a crisply clean setting, with affordable and generous service. The price to quality/taste ratio makes this a real neighborhood find.

PIZZA

Gaspare’s: Gaspare himself is from Sicily (my heritage, thank you very much!), serving up authentic thin crust pizzas ($10.50-$22.50, depending on size) since the ‘80’s on Geary Blvd. It’s Old School in all the right ways… though maybe not the best pizza in the city, it’s some of the most comforting. Put some coins in the table jukeboxes while you chow down on a hearty Pepperoni, a “Gaspare’s Special” with fresh tomatoes, roasted bell pepper, feta and mozzarella, or a spicy Enrico’s Pizza Caliente, loaded with jalapeno, sausage and onions.

Pizzetta 211: A long time favorite for “creative” (I hate to say Californian) thin crust pizza ($9-14; serves 1-2), their pizzas actually remind me of great pizzas in Italy – not Neopolitan-style, but simple, with uber-quality meats and vegetables, crispy crust, olive oil drizzle or an egg on top. I’ve been going here years before Pizzeria Delfina even opened and I think this place is way better (as are many!) Pizzetta’s lackluster service can leave something to be desired – and the space is not much bigger than a closet, so get it to go, or come early/late to sit at one of few indoor or outdoor tables. It’s all about the food here… even the daily changing baked goods and desserts are mouth-watering.

JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING

August led me to the tiny mountain town of Jackson Hole, at the entrance of the Grand Tetons near Yellowstone. Just landing in the airport, the only one inside a national park in the US, is a thrill. The Tetons’ jagged peaks pierce the bluest of blue skies, making a majestic line along the valleys of grass and wildlife below.

Near this natural wonder is the tiny, walkable little cowboy/tourist town of Jackson. Thanks to a city law, all architecture must fit the mountain theme, so log cabins and rustic chic abound, looking not unlike the architecture around much of Tahoe or Aspen (I loved the historic Wort Hotel, capturing the charm and history of the Old West).

The bad news is, it is a tourist town so most establishments cater to that constituency (and all that implies). Sure, if you can afford thousands on leather coats and cowboy boots, you’ll find some unique stuff. But if you’re a world-seasoned traveler or live in a major world city, the look will charm, but the substance behind, not always as much. I found that though there are a couple popular sushi or Nuevo Latino restaurants in town, this hardly makes the choices comparable to what you can eat in many great cities. Of course, you don’t come here for the food, because cities don’t offer such wildlife, splendid nature and views. And I was lucky enough to meet some amazing, kind locals and see their lovely homes… But in my unstoppable search for great, local meals, wherever I may be, from the smallest to largest town, my sights were charmed by many down-home bars and restaurants, while my taste buds were feeling a bit left out.

I WISH I could have made it to Jackson’s most famed restaurant, Snake River Grill, a rustic chic dining room I merely peeked into. With a dear friends’ wedding festivities every night I was in town, I couldn’t get away long enough for a fine dining meal, though I was dying to try the North Dakota Elk Chop with Spiced Bing Cherries and Sweet Potato Fries (at a shocking $49!) or a more humble Sugar Snap Peas with Sesame and Mint ($6). From what I hear, this is Jackson’s shining mecca for food, albeit at a price.

I’d be tempted to come back in Winter (Summer is the busiest season with the town completely overrun by tourists) for sleigh rides among moose and elk, world class skiing and warm drinks by roaring fireplaces.

Here are my Jackson food stories:

BREAKFAST/COFFEE

Jackson Hole Roasters: A delightful shock in Wyoming or anywhere… who’d have thought this coffee snob (that’s me, by the way) would find a café serving not only beans roasted on the premises, but made one cup at a time in an astronomically expensive (and rare) Clover machine?? Though service was surprisingly abrupt and distant (come on, really?), for “the goods”, this is the one and only place around to get it. Another plus? It’s in an utterly charming cottage a couple blocks off the Town Square with a green, lush yard, picnic tables, and a front porch swing so you can optimally, peacefully take in the glorious mornings.

The Bunnery: AVOID at all costs the mile-long breakfast lines filled with Food Network viewers… every critique I read ahead of time warned that the restaurant was less than mediocre (looks like a Knotts’ Berry Farm-type country kitchen: cute but bland). What’s all the fuss about, then? Baked goods are their claim to fame, which you can get at the To Go counter. Though my mouth watered just looking at bakery choices, I have to say the pastries and Pumpkin Apple Muffin were alright. Maybe I’m spoiled with Tartine – and many other greats – within walking distance of me (James Beardwinner for most Outstanding Pastry Chef in the US this year, and the best pastries I’ve tasted anywhere in the world). But The Bunnery’s famed Very Berry Pie (raspberry & blackberry) is just like Grandma used to make: sweet, jammy, buttery crust dusted with sugar. Paired with Jackson Hole Roasters’ coffee (where I took my goods to eat)… watch out!

FOOD

Cadillac Grille & Billy’s Giant Burgers: Believe it or not, the best meal I had in my Jackson visit was burgers! I wanted there to be more, but this duo of restaurants serving each other’s food (the cute diner/bar side or ‘classier’ restaurant side), was the most solid meal I ate. Hearty, juicy burgers were great whether from Billy’s to-the-point burgers (around $5) or “fancied up” (with applewood bacon and avocado) from the Grille menu ($9). Even Wyoming’s state law allowing only MEDIUM WELL on any restaurant meat (what the??!! how can a chef work under such a law?) didn’t keep them from leaving it a little pink for me.

Q Roadhouse: For the sake of trying something “new and hip” in town, or rather, in nearby Wilson(about 4 miles from Jackson), I hit up this fun-sounding mix of BBQ and New Orleans. The large restaurant has personality, even if looking rather chain-like. Tons of Harleys were parked outside when we pulled up, and bikers were celebrating a wedding at a large table in rowdy fashion. I was liking the spirit of the place right off. The back patio is where good times are had, overlooking a broad lawn where kids chase each other as you eat. There’s a good beer, cocktail, and whiskey selection (Mint Julep for me, thank you!) Fried Green Wyomatoes ($7.95; don’t ask – I won’t even say it) are spicy as all get-out, but festive. The BBQ is surprisingly disappointing (dry, flavorless pulled pork; faux-BBQ sauce at the table). I couldn’t believe it – or could?: we have more authentic Southern BBQ in San Francisco! Crab & Avocado BLT ($11.95) was not great. Oddly, the sides ($3.95) ended up being the highlight. Satisfying Mac & Cheese and some of the best BBQ Beans I’ve ever had. Smoky beans loaded with savory, tender chunks of beef brisket…. Mmmm. All in all, this place hit the spot in setting, but not with the half-baked menu.

Alpenhof Lodge’s Bistro: Ok, this place really let me down but maybe I should’ve known being in a touristyTeton Village resort (about 10 miles from Jackson). But the online menu looked authentically Austrian/Swiss with mention of Tyrolean cuisine, a mix of Austrian and Italian food I loved in the Tyrol region of Italy (on the border of Austria) last year – very rare to even hear mention of this cuisine in the US. With the online menu stating fondue was served for lunch in the Bistro as well as at dinner in theAlpenrose, I was hoping to recreate favorite travel memories in another mountain setting, maybe even finding some Tyrolean sausages, which I still dream of from carts in the Italian Alps. But it was one let down after the other… not only was the dining room décor a dingy mix of 1980’s US bar with a meek attempt at Swiss/Austrian – thank God for the sunny outdoor deck – but I was told no fondue was served during the day. I said they should update their website, but too late for me. We still enjoyed a hearty meat and cheese platter with some authentic Swiss/Austrian cheeses and meats. It slid down nicely with a lovely glass of Gruner Veltliner. But the phyllo-wrapped “sausage” was pretty much a glorified hot dog and the rest of the menu, basically American sandwiches. I’ve heard the one other Austrian restaurant in town, Steigler’s, is much better, but it’s not open for lunch and I needed a lunch spot. I suppose my Tyrolean dreams will have to remain sweet memories until I return…

SNACKS

Elk or Buffalo Jerky at Jackson’s Farmer’s Market: Enjoying the Saturday morning Farmer’s Market around Jackson’s Town Square, I tasted Jackson Hole Buffalo Meat’s famed gourmet jerky in beef, elk and buffalo – I tasted all, impressed by the mild, meaty flavors and tender (for jerky) texture. An appealing snack and easy way to be introduced to buffalo and elk if you’ve never tried them.

BARS

Million Dollar Cowboy Bar: THE bar to hit in town, right on Town Square, unmissable with that kitschy old world Vegas signage and loud décor (just follow the crowds). It’s too crowded for its own good – on Summer nights, you might not even be able to get in (my friend got ‘bounced’ from Jackson Hole’s Cowboy Bar!) There are often covers for live bands, but you can walk through during the day or come by for a quick drink just to see the huge, open space filled with red pool tables and wood carvings, lined with saddle bar stools. In a memorabilia display case showing off spurs and chaps, I saw tickets when Merle Haggard or Willie Nelson played here decades ago. If only…

Mangy Moose: Another loud, crazy looking bar with stuff hanging everywhere (ceilings and walls), this Teton Village bar inside the sadly (or aptly?) named Mangy Moose Lodge has a relaxed feel and eclectic look worthy of a few photos (though the restaurant side looks better than the bar, I wouldn’t recommend eating there). Best of all, there are some surprisingly good bands making their way to the stage, like the upcoming Mofro or Eric McFadden Trio shows.

Saddle Rock Family Saloon: Yet another kitschy, over-the-top cowboy bar – this one with a for-tourists-only “family saloon” menu and Wild West show. I’d personally avoid all the above, but was still charmed by the atmosphere and bar décor (will they let you get a drink with all those kids around?) It reminds me of the Disneyland Frontierland of my youth, with swinging saloon door, animal heads and bad nature paintings.

CAFES/TAKE OUT FOOD

Back Country Provisions: Sandwiches to go? You could do worse than this little deli serving a long list of delectable sandwiches with quality meats like Genoa Salami, Prosciutto, Soppreseta and Mortadella.

Planet Palate Organic Café & Bakery: The most Bay Area-like café around, the food is organic (Carrot Cardamom Muffins, for example) and the space clean and modern, with a sunny outdoor deck (in front of neighboring, appealing looking Blu Kitchen restaurant, with a modern fusion menu only open for dinner).