“I am tempted to believe that smell and taste are, in fact, but a single composite sense, whose laboratory is the mouth its chimney the nose.” – Brillat-Savarin

Despite economic woes, it’s been a month of great eats, food events and new restaurant openings in San Francisco. I’m looking forward to more slated for October. I share my favorite dishes this past month in Top Tastes (dishes, drinks and bites from my culinary explorations). This month, Featured Neighborhood is my “part two” on the Outer Richmond. I have a new section, Happenings, recapping a great food event I went to at La Cocina. Wandering Traveler is our chance to explore together enchanting Charleston.

I’d love your feedback on any spots you visited from my site. You can leave comments through the site or email me directly.

Let me guide you to the perfect spot!

Virginia

SAVORY / SWEET

Crispy Pork Rinds sprinkled with chile powder, dipped in a dark chocolate sauce (also rich with spice) at a private tasting at Orson. The addictive snack I’ll dream of in my sleep… more! More!

SAVORY – VEGETARIAN

Regalito Rosticeria

Elote (traditional Mexican grilled corn-on-the-cob covered in grated Cotija cheese, Mayo, Lime and Arbol Chili powder; $6) at the always pleasant Regalito Rosticeria - though toned down both in spice and mayo compared to how its traditionally done (try Dona Tere’s Cart at 21st & Alabama if you want the hardcore experience), their sweet, white corn on the cob is a juicy rendition of a Mexican street food favorite

Radio Africa Kitchen

Moroccan style Carrot Soup with Ginger and Lemon Crème Fraiche at Radio Africa Kitchen, Chef Eskender Aseged’s “nomadic Ethiopian restaurant”, currently residing in Coffee Bar on Thursday and Friday nights

SAVORY – SEAFOOD

Tsar Nicoulai

Fresh-as-the-sea Paddlefish Sturgeon Caviar, native to Tennessee Valley rivers, most similar to Caspian caviar ($35 for 1 oz. or order tasting menus starting in the $40’s, served on tiny blinis with crème fraiche) at Tsar Nicoulai in the Ferry Building - widely regarded as some of the US’ best caviar, it’s a revelatory taste

Monk's Kettle

The Pot Pie of the Day ($16) at Monk’s Kettle – a creamy seafood pot pie with veggies and two giant, juicy scallops under the puffiest of puff pastries

Bar Crudo

One of my favorite seafood restaurants, the one-of-a-kind, matchbox-sized Bar Crudo, always thrills me: this month with a crudo of raw Massachusetts Dayboat Scallops ($12 for 4) on white corn puree with lobster mushrooms (tastes like grilled garlic) and tarragon oil; I’m sad to see Crudo move to Divisadero St. soon as I love their unique space (maybe there will be two locations depending on what they do w/ the current space?)

SAVORY – MEAT

Miss Pearl's Jam House

I enjoyed everything on my first visit to Jack London Square’s new hotspot on the Bay, Miss Pearl’s Jam House, but… if you made me, I’d say I was most pleasantly surprised by the Jamaican Pepperpot Stew ($9) a delicious mix of oxtail, cassava, okra, yams, spinach, coconut broth, piquant chilie

OUTER RICHMOND, Part Two

Here’s a link to Outer Richmond, Part One (in case you missed it or need a refresher). Now let’s hit more of my favorites in the wealth of cheap, tasty Outer Richmond food:

BRUNCH

Cliff House Bistro: This one isn’t cheap and the location is notoriously touristy as it is historical, perched on the edge of the sea. But since the remodel a couple years ago, when faced with the need for a breakfast spot overlooking those gorgeous Pacific waves, I find the Bistro surprisingly satisfying, albeit costly. The free Swedish popovers and jam they start you off with fill me up fast. I like the Johnson Omelet (Dungeness Crab Meat, avocado and sour cream – how could you not? $16.95), and theSourdough French Toast (with crisp bacon and an apple compote; $12.95) is not half bad. They don’t take reservations and waits are loooong on weekends so go early.

DINER/BURGERS

Bill’s Place: Greasy spoon diner, it is. But a darn charming one. With the requisite white countertop and red chairs comes the startling placement of chandeliers along the ceiling. That way you can have your chili burgers (smothered in chili and cheese) or a big Dreyer’s milkshake with a touch of class.

SEAFOOD

Pacific Cafe: This long-timer is seafood ala 1970 with cheap wood paneling, booths and the feel of an old school Boston seafood house. Since I first moved to SF eight years ago, it has been a favorite. The FREE, all-you-can-drink (or as often as they come out and pour) house white or red wine is certainly a crowd-pleasing draw. I’ve made many a friend waiting for a table in the chilly ocean air, sometimes well over an hour, as they don’t take reservations. But it’s all part of the unique experience. The food is far from exquisite: think fat steak fries, iceberg lettuce and slightly unappetizing sides of boiled vegetables. But the fish is fresh and dishes heartwarming and tasty. You won’t get the inventive here (no fish in mango salsas or coconut broth), just traditional goodness: I like the clam chowder and my fave entrée, Parmesan encrusted fish of the day (the upper teens cost of this dish has risen to mid-twenties over the years).

ASIAN

Mayflower: 6255 Geary Boulevard at 27th Ave; 415-387-8338; A cheap, clean spot serving unique additions to the usual dumplings and buns Dim Sum (though they do these well, too), such as Shrimp Banana Rolls or sweet Pan-fried Water Chestnut Cakes. Eat your fill for not much more than ten dollars in the relaxed (or at prime meal times, bustling) dining room.

Shanghai Dumpling King: 3319 Balboa Street between 34th & 35th Ave; 415-387-2088; Mon, Wed-Fri 11am-9pm, Sat-Sun 10am-9pm; On a rather desolate block in a dingy dining room sits a spot with Shanghai specialties rarely seen in the US. Their wontons, buns and steamed soup-filled dumplings, Xiao Long Bao (watch out as they explode in your mouth), taste freshly homemade and at $4.25 for 10 spicy wontons, 10 dumplings or 8 mini-pork buns, it’s beyond a steal. You’ll be hooked.

Shanghai House: 3641 Balboa Street between 37th & 38th Ave; 415-831-9288; Some of the most delicately homemade soup dumplings (Xiao Long Bao) you’ll ever taste come from this quiet little haven on Balboa. Clean and fresh, this peaceful, slow-paced restaurant is a preferred lunch spot for me with a good book on a foggy, moody day. Much of the menu is equally delicious and authentic (cash only so prepare accordingly).

Oyaji: I’ve heard mixed reviews on whether sushi is the reason to come here. With so many fave sushi joints already, I came to Oyaji for what I heard was great Izakaya (Japanese snacks/small plates served with drink) and was not disappointed. I like the grilled cod, yakitori skewers and the changing menu of ryori (“tavern food”) specials. There’s a good number of vegetarian plates and ramen along with the sushi, which I’ll have to try next time.

Khan Toke Thai: 5937 Geary Blvd, between 23rd & 24th Ave; 415-668-6654; Usually I’m all about food first so I have to warn you: the food alone would never bring me to Khan Toke. There’s much better Thai around and though decent, nothing here has ever overwhelmed or taken me back to months spent in Thailand. But what does transport me and makes the place worthy of mention, is the playful layout and décor. Take your shoes off as you enter and get seated on the floor in one of a network of rooms. You’ll feel like you’re in a Thai home, either in one of the small spaces or the larger room looking out at the back garden.

La Vie: 5380 Geary Blvd, between 22nd & 23rd Ave; 415-933-6232; An unassuming but clean little dining room on Geary is the setting for authentic Vietnamese food I’ve liked for years. Fresh standards like pork vermicelli bowls are under $10 and often big enough for two. A real deal and one of the better Vietnamese joints on this side of the Avenues.

LA COCINA OPEN HOUSE

La Cocina is a neighborhood food endeavor you should know about. Located on a residential Mission block of Folsom (between 25th and 26th), it’s a non-descript building housing over twenty young food businesses in our fair city from gourmet catering to specialty food products to farmers market ventures. They have a lovely commercial kitchen space and offer technical assistance to low-income entrepreneurs as they launch, market and formalize their business. What a friendly, delightful staff they have and a vision that excites me.

On September 12, I went to an afternoon industry-only Open House at La Cocina (which was followed by a public event that evening). A few of the vendors I already knew and tasted (like Kika’s Treats or Sabores del Sur’s alfajores), but many I discovered, delightedly so, for the first time. Best of all, I got to talk to many of the entrepreneurs, mostly women, about what inspired them to start their businesses or the vision behind their excellent foods.

I want to recommend a few of my favorites, so you can check them out, too. I can honestly say there was not a bad one in the house – I was impressed at the consistent quality and taste of every vendor, so it’s tough to narrow it down. Some don’t have websites so read about them on La Cocina’s (which links to sites if they exist) for contact info and where you might find the products.

DRINK

It helped to have Hangar One/St. George Spirits on hand to wash down all those tastes with little shots of vodkas, whiskeys and Eau di Vies. After a recent tour of their distillery, I have a fuller appreciation for the craft alcohol they make. Crispin’s Rose Liqueur is a fascinating, hand-distilled, fresh rose petal liqueur I tasted at this event with a subtle rose flavor to compliment the apple and honey tones (www.greenwaydistillers.com).

SAVORY

Oh, those pepitas! Botanas Felicitas (email; 415-574-1449) roasts Mexico City botanas (snacks) like pumpkin seeds (pepitas), peanuts and chicharrones to perfection. The Pepitas Con Chile (spicy) or Con Limon Y Sal (with lime and salt) make perfect movie-watching snacks.

El Buen Comer is a family owned business that cooks homemade Mexican guisados, mole sauce and chilaquiles at my neighborhood Noe Valley Farmer’s Market on Saturdays (8am-2pm). Yum!

El Golazo – Hearty homemade pupusas.

SWEET

The aforementioned Sabores del Sur (“Flavors of the South”) is a catering company that makes sinfully decadent Alfajores (classic South American shortbread cookie sandwiches layered with caramel-ly dulce de leche, dusted with powdered sugar). I can’t get enough! You can buy them at the La Cocina booth at the Ferry Plaza Farmer’s Market or in places like Canyon Market on Diamond.

Billie Grant makes truly Sinful Sweets, individually packaged brownie-cookie-cake type desserts, my favorite being “Gabrielle’s Delight”, a pecan pie/buttery shortbread-like brownie. Richly satisfying.

Kika’s Treats you’ll see more readily around town in popular shops like Bi-Rite. Their artisanal shortbreads, graham crackers and honey cakes are dipped in dark chocolate. I have to say, I love ALL five of their products, but am especially fond of the Espresso Cardamom Shortbread in Dark Chocolate.

Di Tullio’s is a Cal-Italian family business making Neopolitan foods, including a White Chocolate/Candied Orange Peel Biscotti and Pastiera Napoletana, a signature Naples’ dessert: creamy ricotta cheese cake with the texture of cooked wheat berries? Sign me up!

And maybe my favorite of all…

Neo Cocoa – These handcrafted, “unshelled” chocolate truffles are some of the best I’ve tasted. The chocolate is dark, rich, aromatic and the flavor combinations in perfect balance: Mocha Cinnamon or Toasted Coconut (wow!) I can’t wait to try Key Lime and Roasted Peanut Butter.

CHARLESTON, Part One

“Even without canals, Charleston is the Venice of America. It’s an incredibly beautiful city on the sea, perfectly preserved, a living museum, but not at all Disneyfied like Colonial Williamsburg.” – William Stadiem, “Everybody Eats There”

What a shock to come through the drab drive across South Carolina and Charleston’s seedy outskirts to find a city so pristine, museum-like. It’s small, walkable and Southern, with incredible architecture, seafood and balmy storms, Charleston envelops you in ethereal beauty.

So well-preserved you almost can’t believe such a historical, colorful “city” (more like a village) exists in the US,  it’s by no means a relic, retaining a hip charm in its clean streets. The famed homes are stunning, and the harbor, a welcome outline for incoming boats. Wedged into alleys between sleek modern shops are cafes, unexpected gardens, overgrown graveyards. Palmetto trees add an exotic Southern island feel while the architecture ranges from New Orleans to colonial British. Pubs and seafood spots are plentiful. Mystique abounds.

The inequity of the rich, touristy vs. decrepit, poverty-stricken areas (both in Charleston and South Carolina, one of the poorest states in the US), is disturbing for any who venture beyond the tiny city center. But, again, unlike any other place in the US, the sheer, color-explosive beauty of Charleston enthralls…

(Stay tuned next month for Charleston bars and eats from surrounding islands).

RESTAURANTS

ANSON: Long known to be one of the best upscale Charleston restaurants, this elegant dining haven serves some of the Low Country’s finest dishes with gourmet, delicate flair. One of Charleston’s most renowned local dishes is She Crab Soup ($7), among my favorite foods of the South. A cross between a bisque and a chowder, it’s made with Blue Crab… and the crème de la crème, Crab Roe (eggs), which dot the soup with brightly tantalizing orange. I had the soup in upscale restaurants like Anson as well as from shacks on nearby islands. Anson’s version, laced with sherry, is superb. Other greats include Grilled Peaches ($11) with Benton’s unparalleled Tennessee Ham, Spiced Pecans, Goat Cheese and Mosto Olive Oil (wow!) or addictively fine Shrimp & Country Ham Grits ($9), made from amazing house-ground hominy and sweet with Roasted Tomatoes. Entrees change seasonally, like Roasted Duck Breast ($22) with Duck Confit, Peaches and Blackberries or Seared Scallops ($25) in a Bacon-Brown Butter Sauce with Field Peas, Okra and Tomato.

 

COAST: It almost feels like a chain: cavernous, loud, but with a couple warm touches, escapes the TGI Friday’s feel. It’s like fabulously glorified bar eats – IF said bar was rich in shellfish and seafood. Since, to me, there is no meat better than crab (I also “heart” cream), the Coast Crab Dip ($8.95) got me all jazzed up. Once I downed Crispy Fried Lobster Tails (with Bacon Blue Cheese Slaw and Honey Mustard Sauce – yes!) and delicately prepared Halibut (check the chef’s “fish of the day”), I was in a haze of contentment. The whole menu reads like one mouth-watering dream (Crab Stuffed Tilapia, Cashew Encrusted Grouper, Lobster Ceviche and Fried Green Tomatoes).

 

MAGNOLIA’S: A Charleston classic with famed chef and cookbook. I had to try their famous Fried Green Tomatoes ($8.95) with White Cheddar and Caramelized Onion Grits, Country Ham, Tomato Chutney – the best I’ve ever had! I wouldn’t recommend it for more than lunch, though, as it’s pricey for what you get, oddly 1980’s and slightly stiff in spirit. But go for those FGTs!  Brilliant.

 

SLIGHTLY NORTH OF BROAD (lamely called SNOB): A charming environment for a Southern restaurant “empire” where I had only dessert – worth a stop if only for that Sour Cream Apple Pie ($6)!

 

IL CORTILE del RE: A nice change of pace from the Southern food I love so… an authentic Italian trattoria, small, warm, with an artistic mix of staff and patrons creating the feel of being in an Italy with heartwarming classic dishes.

 

HOMINY GRILL: One of Charleston’s most popular spots is this idyllic Low Country, neighborhood spot. You’ll understand the hype after eating hearty Shrimp & Grits Casserole in the warmth of the country kitchen dining room or back patio. This is the kind of place that’s gonna give you your biscuits, sausage, homefries, cornbread, fried chicken and, of course, hominy like mama made… but with gourmet flair (how about Grilled Soft Shell Crab with Baked Cheese Grits, Apricot Almond Slaw & Lemon Herb Butter?) In “Everybody Eats There”, William Stadiem says: “Hominy Grill, with its glorification of the most traditional southern cooking with the finest, freshest, most artisanal southern ingredients, is the Chez Panisse of the Low Country… [it] looks straight out of Porgy and Bess.”