“This is the violet hour, the hour of hush and wonder, when the affections glow and valor is reborn, when the shadows deepend along the edge of the forest and we believe that, if we watch carefully, at any moment we may see the unicorn.” – Bernard DeVoto, The Hour

The year has so swiftly reached an end… hard to believe. Certainly it’s been a tumultuous year in the world but also one of the sweetest for me in discovery and experience. It’s a short newsletter this month as I’ve been away a good portion of November.

I just came back from Miami and New Orleans where I ate and drank like a Queen, especially in the latter. I’m in love with NoLa, as I always knew I would be, and after a long stay, exploring many neighborhoods, I have a wealth of finds to share with you. But that will come at a later date…

Certainly many of this month’s best Top Tastes (favorite new dishes, drinks and bites) were from my travels, but I’m sticking to Bay Area revelations for now. Palo Alto and classic films are highlighted in a combo column of Around the Bay.

I’d love feedback on any spots you visited from my site. Enjoy the holidays with those you love and make time for reflection on the year and to dream for the new one ahead…

Let me guide you to the perfect spot,

Virginia

BREAKFAST

Oakland’s brand new Aunt Mary’s serves up soul/Southern food with East Bay flair in their weekend brunches: I liked the “Stuff in the Pepper” Poblanofilled with chorizo cornbread stuffing (with cherries, nuts, pear) over black beans ($10).

SAVORY – VEGETARIAN

Tropisueno just debuted in Yerba Buena Lane, acting as a super-fresh taqueria for lunch, and a more creative-flair Mexican restaurant and tequila bar at night. For lunch, a veggie taco does it (get it “super” to add sour cream and guac) stuffed with grilled zucchini, yellow squash, onions, red bell peppers, mushrooms and beans on a soft corn tortilla.

SAVORY – SEAFOOD

In Oakland, I was satisfied on a rainy afternoon with Pho 84’s crispy, lightly Fried Catfish with vermicelli noodles, mushrooms, onions and cilantro in a bracing, just-the-right-amount-of-spice coconut milk curry sauce ($14).

SAVORY – MEAT

After a crazy debut night of Mission St. Food in Lung Shan, a dingy Chinese hole-in-the-wall on Mission, they’re taking a hiatus for November, potentially looking for a bigger space. The first night I tried everything, but this one I had to order two of: PB&J, a Kurobuta Berkshire Pork Belly and Jicama in pickled jalapeno cilantro aioli on a homemade (incredible!) flatbread.

Tenderloin’s Morty’s Deli cures my Reuben (and East Coast) craving with either pastrami or corned beef (I like both in one sandwich) for $6.75, hot and pressed together with sauerkraut and a Swiss/Russian dressing. I love Morty’s!

Chan Chan Café Cubano (4690 18th Street at Clover; 415-864-4199) serves up the best Cubano sandwich I’ve had yet (in a city short on Cuban food, this new, Cuban-run neighborhood spot is a real find)… the Cuban was loaded with pork (only downside for some may be the excess fat, which is the source of the flavor), pickles and tomatoes, on a hearty bread in a subtle mayo of orange and Zinfandel. A gorgeous salad came with it, decorated with edible flowers, ripe with raspberries, blueberries, strawberries, mango, feta and candied walnuts. The salad dressing sent it over the moon: homemade raspberry vinagrette with sesame oil and garlic. I shall return!

SWEET

Berkeley is lucky to get new choco shop, Chocolatier Blue- besides making exquisite chocolates, I’m warmed up by handmade to order Dark Hot Chocolates, like the Cinnamon & Chili ($3.50), with a homemade vanilla bean marshmallow and rare, ultra-expensive Camargue Fleur de Sel in the mix from France.

DRINK

Range never fails to create some of the best cocktails in the country… classic, with creative flair. This month was no different as winter doldrums were beat with The Swafford: applejack, rye whiskey, maraschino liqueur, Chartreuse and a dash of Angostura bitters ($9.50).

For all you Whiskey/Scotch lovers, classic Lagavulin’s 16-year Scotch is a peaty, deeply smoky Scotch that can be found for around $55 a bottle, or get a glass at the Haight’s brown-liquor king, the Alembic to try it out.

CLASSIC FILMS at Palo Alto’s STANFORD THEATRE

Thanks to my classic film-obsessed Mother, one of my favorite pastimes is watching old movies. I may not know as much as my Mom does about all things classic film, but I do have an in-depth appreciation & knowledge of film in general, and the classics in particular. I feel lucky to be able to partake in the incomparable line-up of popular and rare (often not available on DVD/video) old movies shown daily at the Stanford Theatre in downtown Palo Alto.

This historic theater has the necessary classic movie-house organ (with live performances before most evening screenings), elaborate carvings and murals. Tickets are $7, which will get you into both films on whatever day/night you go. Over the years, I’ve hit screenings during what can be 2-3 month long “festivals” showing dozens of films of featured actors (Bette Davis, Jimmy Stewart, Katharine Hepburn, Cary Grant), directors (Alfred Hitchcock, Preston Sturges, George Cukor) or themes like Romantic Comedies or Film Noir. They’re keeping it light for the holidays with perennial classics like Bogart films, “The Wizard of Oz” and “It’s A Wonderful Life”.

Palo Alto, though more lively (and crowded) than most suburban downtowns, doesn’t have a wealth of city-quality restaurants (there’s certainly a great volume, however), and I more often than not, end up having a mediocre meal, but after much digging over the years, here are some of the best for pre or post film viewing:

RESTAURANTS

My favorite restaurant in Palo Alto is Bistro Elan where a gourmet, fresh, delicious Cal French meal (and warm service) is in order, but… it’s not really ideal in conjunction with a film as it’s a short drive, rather than walk, from University Ave, and as you want to take your time here. Still, I had to mention it as a Palo Alto great.

SF’s impeccable Bong Su was opened by owners of Palo Alto’s Tamarine. Upscale Vietnamese is done right here with Crab and Garlic Glass Noodles ($15), Clay Pot Cod ($19), Hoisin Lamb Chops ($25) or Citrus Soft Shell Crab ($11), served in a spare, but elegant, dining room.

Evvia Estiatorio – An offshoot of SF’s fabulous, elegant Greek Kokkari, Evvia is a secondary player to the more stimulating décor and layout at Kokkari, though charging similar prices. Here you can get lunch or dinner in a large, open-air room with delicious Greek food, making it one of Palo Alto’s better dining options.

LIGHT EATS/APPETIZERS

Vino Locale – See description below under “Drink” and come here for Panini to eat in or to go.

Kanpai Sushi (330 Lytton Avenue, between Florence and Bryant Streets; 650-325-2696) is a decent sushi stop in downtown Palo Alto where the Omakase meals are steep ($45-65) but lunch is real deal and ala carte items are always available.

Nola – This place must come with a caveat: at least half the menu and drinks are suburban average and at night the party scene and noise absolutely ruins it. But for lunch or appetizers, this place transports to The Big Easy with its awesome two-level layout of house, bar, courtyard, Zydeco music and NoLa artwork; menu items are not quite Cajun (um, Cajun Spiced Fish Tacos?) and not always that good. Still, portions are generous and the better dishes are satisfying enough (think of it as better-than-average bar food and you’ll be on the right track), but it’s all about the setting. I like the surprisingly good, albeit drowned in rich cream sauce, Crawfish Andouille Dumplings ($8.95) or Crispy Calamari & Delta Blue Lakes with Red Creole Remoulade ($8.95). Share these hearty appetizers with friends over a cocktail (again, hit and miss) and you just might be ready to party Mardi Gras-style.

DRINK

Vino Locale – There’s no place around quite like this magical Victorian cottage housing bottles of local wines, simple foods (appetizers, salads, panini and desserts prepared with a Slow Food ethos), local artists’ artwork (+ a monthly “Meet the Artist” night) and all around charm. Sip a glass in the house or courtyard or order food for a picnic.

Junoon – Though the décor is hot, their bland “Indian fusion” is way overpriced and utterly disappointing – don’t even waste your time on appetizers. But you just might like the Tipsy Lassi, a Mango Lassi spiked with Mango Rum, for an after-movie imbibement. And the setting is, after all, cool in that London Indian restaurant sort-of-way.

Tea Time – A cute little shop with a nice range of teas… pre-movie only as they close early (7pm Monday-Saturday; 6pm Sunday).

DESSERT

Peninsula Fountain/Palo Alto Creamery – A charming, retro diner around since 1923, don’t come here for a meal, but do come for dessert (baked pies or creamy milkshakes). An ideal setting for a soda or an ice cream float post-classic films (yes, you can sit at the counter and pretend you’re Lana Turner about to be discovered).

Fraiche Yogurt – This is Palo Alto’s “froyo” (tart frozen yogurt) locale with not only great froyo, but fresh probiotic, cultured yogurt (made from Clover organic milk; tart but not sour). I love the Valrhona Chocolate flavor. They also serve a Soy frozen yogurt, which I like better than their Plain. And they bless the South Bay with Blue Bottle Coffee.

Zibibbo – Though taste value vs. cost means eat elsewhere, the candlelit, spacious dining room and bar are so enchanting, it’s worth a drink or dessert to soak up the atmosphere.