The year is off to delectable start with gratifying new openings (check out my Top Tastes section), two articles I wrote published in the SF Bay Guardian’s “Hard Times Handbook” cover story, and the Fancy Food Show at the Moscone Center (held in SF and NYC).

On Fancy Food: Imagine, if you will, over 80,000 food and beverage artisans from around the world, showcasing their wares and offering samples for what seems like miles in the Moscone Center. Eventually, my stomach was begging me to forgo one more drop of a chocolate, sauce, spread or snack (a rarity!) After massive tastebud overload, I regret the endless discoveries I had to miss but especially loved wandering the international section grouped by country. Many industry folk have already written about this massive event so I’m going to list just a few personal highlights:

• My favorite was probably Beehive Cheese Co’s “Barely Buzzed“: a nutty, exotic White Cheddar hand-rubbed in a surprisingly perfect combo of coffee and lavender, the rind imparting caramely notes – it placed 1st in national US competitions and one bite told me why
• I’ve long been a fan of Gelato Massimo (you can buy it at Rainbow Grocery and a few Bay Area grocers), but was happily able to try more of their bright flavors here
• Elaine’s (ETC Toffee Company) fabulous Dark Chocolate Almond Toffee
• The surprisingly toothsome Indian “TV dinners” from Tandoor Chef(samosas, curries and naans) – kudos for their inviting eating area with floor stools and cushions
• Justin’s yummy organic Peanut Butter – smooth, lightly touched with honey
• A simple, satisfying probiotic yogurt drink, Yakult
• Otis & Betty’s playful trail/peanut mixes
• Fentiman’s wonderful botanically brewed old-fashioned bottled drinks and sodas, from Curiosity Cola to Dandelion & Burdock – I dig their packaging

Every month, I share Top Tastes, favorite new dishes, drinks and bites from culinary explorations. In Imbiber, get dolled up to visit Retro Bars. Wandering Traveler highlights food and music in the Treme and Fauborg Marigny neighborhoods of incomparable New Orleans.

I’d love your feedback on any spots you visited from my site… don’t forget, I can help with any trips, outings or in local exploration by creating personalized itineraries, whether for an evening, a day or a whole vacation (check out my “Services” page).

Let me guide you to the perfect spot!

Virginia

BREAKFAST

Since the Meetinghouse closed years ago, I’ve been a sad girl – not only because it was a supreme SF brunch spot, but because Joanna Karlinsky’s biscuits are about the best I’ve ever put in my mouth (and that includes my visits to the South!) Thank you, Joanna, for bringing your buttery biscuits to us at one more location besides the well-intentioned but mediocre Elite Cafe (it’s a NoLa-themed restaurant so believe me, I wanna love it). If you don’t want to have to go to a restaurant to get them, they’re now served in the little “food court” inside Laurel Height’s Jewish Community Center all day, every day.
Bette’s Oceanview Diner – Sitting at the counter, I ordered a special of the day, the near perfect Cornmeal Currant Pancakes with Sweet Potato & Bacon Sausage. Sounded good… tasted even better. Now that’s the way to brunch!

SAVORY – MEAT

This “take two” on Venice Beach favorite, Baby Blues BBQ, is a joy from start to finish. Not only do they deliver (to my ‘hood of Noe – right on!), but everything from their brisket to pulled pork to smoked links to BBQ gulf shrimp hits the spot. It’s may not be the best (though certainly is among) SF BBQ, but every note is right, from friendly service, to Johnny Cash on the stereo, to revolving beers on tap.

Phat Philly (3388 24th Street at Valencia, 415-550-7428) – Yes, you can get authentic Cheez Whiz cheesesteaks here, but there are plenty of other toppings besides (if you’re a Cali native who doesn’t ‘get it’): from housemade sauces (Cheddar Beer, Garlic Mayo, Mr. Pibb BBQ Sauce) to caramelized onions or peppers. Amoroso rolls are shipped from Philly with East Coast snacks for sale like Tastycakes andHerr’s. I’m not always in the mood for cheesesteak, but when I am, I’m comin’ here.

SWEET

Humphry Slocumbe – Look out, my new obsession is here! You who know me know I freak out over ice cream and this may be the most exciting around. Sure, I adore classic Mitchell’s, creamy Bi-Rite, et. al. as much as everyone else. But where else can I get “Secret Breakfast” (Bourbon & Cornflakes! I’m hooked!), Blue Bottle Vietnamese Coffee, Thai Chili Lime Sorbet, Strawberry Candied Jalapeno, Banana Red Hots and Peanut Butter Curry?!? The Mission’s brand new Humphry Slocumbe is where. These vibrantly rich flavors thrill adventurous taste buds – and initiate the less adventurous to a new level of pleasure. Vision is alive and well here – no surprise given the fine dining background of the creators. I’ve tasted every flavor at each visit and not one is short of great. Meet me there now?

Chill - I’m sick of fro-yo as much as you are, but Chill is doing it differently offering a range of fresh, unique toppings/combos, tea “coffees” (lattes made with red rooibos tea), crepes and housemade sodas. Consider it a froyo-dessert-drink cafe plus. There’s also free wi-fi, impeccable ingredients and convenient FiDi location. If you’re gonna do fro-yo, their Black Sesame is uniquely nutty and worth a visit.

DRINK

The stunning new Dosa on Fillmore has an intriguing list of cocktails created by Johnny Raglin of Absinthe. Smoked Cup ($11) is a smoky Mezcal imbibement (Pimm’s, Black Cardamom, Ginger Beer, Cucumber, Smoked Sea Salt), but I can’t stop dreaming of the Juhu Palm ($10) with Palm DH Krahn Gin, coconut milk, lime juice, Kaffir lime leaf, bird’s eye chili, served up with a spanked (yes, spanked!) curry leaf. Not too sweet, but sweet enough, not too thick, rather, a hint of cream… it goes down, oh, so easily. But beware the crowds at this place, which have already descended.

Church Key (1402 Grant Avenue at Green Street, 415-963-1713) – Brand new artisan beer bar in North Beach (a ‘hood which already has Belgian beer treasure, La Trappe) has about 8 draught beers and another 50 bottles in what is, for now, a thankfully mellow setting. In initial weeks of opening, they had Allagash Curieux ($10 on draught) from Portland, Maine’s Allagash Brewing Co. It’s a bright, refreshingly complex Bourbon barrel-aged tripel with notes of Bourbon (natch), oak, cognac, vanilla and peach.

Inner Sunset gets a prize in tiny, low-ceilinged new coffee haven and curious shop, Hollow (1435 Irving Street between 15th and 16th, 415-242-4119). Like a little Hobbit’s corner or Secret Garden hovel, there’s only two tables but it’s a dreamy, welcoming spot to linger with a book over Ritual coffee, a Jessica Foster truffle (try the Dark Chai) or their homemade buttery Pecan Crisp.

I know where my latest classic cocktail hangout is gonna be. Despite rather small portions of good but not-worth-the-cost food at Charles Phan’s brand new Heaven’s Dog & Noodle Shop (1148 Mission Street between 7th and 8th, 415-863-6008), the gorgeous, elongated bar hosts a thrilling line-up of SF mixologists (like Thad Vogler, Jackie Patterson, Erik Ellestad) and an ice machine par excellence… it’s worth coming out just to drink here. With a changing cocktail list (all $10) from Charles H. Baker’s classic “Gentleman’s Companion“, there’s not a shoddy drink on the list. Stand-outs? TheBiarritz Monk Buck bursts with spicy ginger, refreshes with Pellehaut Armagnac and yellow chartreuse. Remember the Maine is a gorgeous blend of Rye Whiskey, Italian Vermouth, Cherry Brandy and Absinthe. Or take the final option (I did) to choose a liquor and have them create the drink – they know what they’re doing. Did I mention it’s the most beautiful ice you’ll ever see?

“Fussy and particular, the yuppie… simply would not, could not, bring anything but an imported beer to his lips, or the rarest of single-malt Scotches. In cocktails as in food, he insisted on authenticity, integrity of ingredients, and top quality all the way around. For this let us give thanks, even if snobbery and status seeking often lay behind the ruthless ‘pursuit of excellence’… sometimes snobbery has its uses. The image-conscious drinker who insists on the best as a form of self-advertisement winds up as often as not educating his taste buds and, in the end, actually learning how to discriminate between good, better, and best. Somewhere along the way, the snob develops respect for the subject mater, whether it’s wines of the Loire, English bitters, or single-malt Scotches. Arrogance gives way to humility, image-mongering to the disinterested pursuit of knowledge. This is the yuppie way of knowing, the seven upscale pillars of wisdom. Heap scorn if you will, but America and the cocktail are better for it.”

- William Grimes in “Straight Up or On the Rocks: A Cultural History of American Drink” (1993)

RETRO BARS, Part One

It’s no secret I’m sold on all things retro. Besides calling me Renaissance Woman, some friends say I was born in the wrong time. I shoulda been a 1940’s/1950’s siren… at least in my dreams. I’ll take the freedom and independence of today, though in an ideal world (and I do try!), I’d fuse the modern with the bohemian and poetic, with clothing and music of past decades; with vintage furniture/décor, classic cars, old movies and martinis. I’m a sucker for a restaurant or bar where I can walk in wearing my red/leopard peep toe shoes with seamed stockings, while Ella, Sinatra, Billie, Louis… weave their magic. Here’s to a few places where this is possible, embodying the spirit of those stylish days. I’m thankful for bars where you can dress up IF you feel like it, but this is still California, after all, so for those who get less of a kick out of dressing up, anything goes, really.

1920’s SPEAKEASY

Bourbon & Branch – This gorgeous speakeasy harkens back to the ‘20’s & 30’s, and though I’ve been going since they opened some years ago, reservations have gotten progressively harder to come by (and the crowd on the sidewalk at opening time a little annoying). But the past few years, its remained a favorite because not only do they make superb cocktails, both classic recipes and a revolving seasonal menu of their own creations ($11-13 on average), but they’ve launched many a great bartender around town (Thad Vogler, Joel Baker, et. al.) Plus, ambiance couldn’t be better: ‘30’s jazz plays in a sultry, dim, multi-room ‘bordello’ (two bar/table rooms, a darkly seductive Library Room and Russell’s Room – a tribute to the 1920’s cigar shop once here). It’s by reservation only (unless you go to the Library Room with the password “books”). Give your assigned password after you ring the buzzer at the signless door on a seedy Tenderloin corner. Then enter a candlelit world of books, cocktails, jazz, and a touch of elegance. Mind the speakeasy rules (like “Don’t Even Think of Asking for a Cosmo”, thank you very much!, no photos or “Please Speak Easy”). Finally, a grown up bar where one can imbibe AND talk! No matter how many knock-offs or how popular this place gets, I’m still a fan.

CASUAL NEIGHBORHOOD RETRO BARS

Club Deluxe – This low-key classic is the real deal. It’s been on Haight Street since the ‘40’s complete with blonde wood walls, chipped bar and fedora-wearing crowd. They’ve started stand-up comedy nights, which doesn’t exactly fit the setting – what happened to their weekly Bossa Nova or Church of Sinatra nights? Bring ‘em back, please! They do have some good live jazz, make a refreshing Spa Collins cocktail and give off the welcoming vibe of an ideal neighborhood hangout.

Lone Palm
(3394 22nd Street at Guerrero; open 4p-2a daily; 415-648-0109) – This Mission haven is on 22nd Street between Guerrero and Valencia, unremarkable but for the glowing neon sign. It’s small, dim and old school in all the right ways. When not crowded, I find it downright romantic, like a neighborhood bar of the ’60’s where you can talk in low tones while gazing into each other’s eyes.

NEW ORLEANS

New Orleans, city that enchants me. Even in its gritty crime and scarred, beating heart, it is beautiful, radiant, full of history, color and hope. I have many places to write about here… too many for even multiple articles. But I’ll share some from time to time, hoping you’ll go and explore like a local. Here are a just a few favorites from the Treme and Fauborg Marigny neighborhoods:

Treme

Granted, it’s a somewhat scary walk through this gritty, rough ‘hood and should be attempted during the day with your wits about you. It’s a historic neighborhood for jazz fans such as myself, a breeding ground for brass bands, including the amazing Rebirth Brass Band (more about them at a later date), bordered by Louis Armstrong Park (he was actually born in the Uptown district).

True to the Treme’s Creole, African-American roots, food is important in this depressed area, none more so than the elderly kitchen queens of the Treme, Wille Mae Seaton of

Willie Mae’s Scotch House and Leah Chase of Dooky Chase. I had the pleasure of eating at both. Around the corner from one other, each is completely different in feel and menu, though both fall into a “soul food” categorization. Willie Mae is a treasure, winning a James Beard award for her supreme fried chicken, named best in the country by some. At nearly 100 years old, she’s a darling – watch a great video of her on You Tube. In the humble, small dining room, like a friend’s house, her granddaughter continues the tradition of frying up Willie Mae’s crispy, juicy chicken, and those flavorsome red beans and rice. Dooky Chase, named after Leah’s husband, is a surprisingly elegant, multi-room restaurant with bright walls, vibrant local paintings and gorgeous wood bar.

The exterior belies the beauty of the interior, while the menu remains down home goodness with a few upscale touches. Fried oyster Po Boys, gumbo and traditional New Orleans dishes reign and there’s a take-out counter if you’re so inclined. Leah’s is another sweet, sad story of struggle, incredible spirit and tenacity from this 80-something spitfire (check it out on You Tube).

Fauborg Marigny

Another music-rich ‘hood and birthplace of Jelly Roll Morton, its main drag, Frenchman Street, is the locals’ hotspot for live music. I was able to hit a number of these great clubs all within the same couple blocks, some free, others at a minimal cover charge, and filled with locals late into the night:

Blue Nile – The spacious room is nothing to get excited about and the crowd can be annoyingly wasted, but the Nile showcases great live acts, including local legendary trumpeter, Kermit Ruffins, who I had the joy of seeing play here ($10 cover) with his Barbecue Swingers (he plays most Thursdays at Vaughn’s in the Bywater neighborhood, where the band often cooks up BBQ before the show).

d.b.a. – Reminds me of San Fran clubs, though actually second location of a NYC bar: unassuming, low key, with an impeccable artisan beer selection. John Boutte plays Saturday nights, bringing his soulful vocals and blend of jazz, blues and gospel.

The Spotted Cat – There’s no cover charge at this humble locals spot. On Fridays, the Nola Jazz Vipers carry on a jam session that goes late into the night, keeping NoLa’s traditional jazz tradition alive, youthful and free.

R Bar – With self-described “exacting standards of sleazy luxury”, this unique, funky little 1890’s inn houses the R Bar where you can chill to DJ’s spinning hip hop and old soul, feast on Friday night Crawfish Boils, or come Mondays for a $10 barber haircut and a shot (now, that’s what I’m talkin’ ’bout). You’ll find the spirit of New Orleans alive in this charmingly raw joint.

Snug Harbor Jazz Bistro – This is Frenchman Street’s more expensive jazz club, though still small and cozy. You’ll see bigger names here, including excellent regulars like Ellis Marsalis or Irvin Mayfield.

FOOD/CAFE

Port of Call – Though right on the edge of the French Quarter (and around the corner from my apartment rental), this divey bar is just a couple blocks from Frenchman Street, an ideal place to chow down before or after a show. The decor suits a ’60’s sea captain, replete with dark wood paneling and fishing gear, musty smell, and famed tropical drinks (sweet but strong). The burgers (blue cheese for me!) and baked potatoes are not only a deal ($10-13 for both and you’ll be stuffed sick) but some of the tastiest dive bar food you’ll ever eat.

Kahve Royale Eastern European Cafe – It’s worth going out of your way to find this 1700’s, paint-chipped, charming house that feels like a secret gem. Order decent coffees and pastries in a setting transporting you straight to Europe, with old world charm. Sit by open windows or play freely on the piano in the creaky back room. I wiled away happy hours writing and reading as the sun warmed me and a crackling-sounding 1940’s radio played classic jazz.