“The primary requisite for writing well about food is a good appetite. Without this, it is impossible to accumulate… enough experience of eating to have anything worth setting down. Each day brings only two opportunities for field work, and they are not to be wasted minimizing the intake of cholesterol.” – A.J. Liebling, “Between Meals: An Appetite for Paris”

“Other requirements for a food critic are a hearty appetite, a cast-iron stomach, good health with no food allergies, a high metabolism and broad firsthand experiences with many cuisines, a good and unprejudiced palate and a dependable taste memory.” - Mimi Sheraton, “Eating My Words: An Appetite for Life”

Spring is here! It’s been a rich food month in SF, with excursions to Napa and further tales of New Orleans. I’ve got a lot of info to share with you this month as the adventures continue…

If you forward The Perfect Spot to food/drink/travel-loving friends and five of them sign up for my newsletter (email me names or have them mention you referred them), and I’ll give you a “Package One: The Perfect Meal” (recommendations for a meal based on your request, e.g. exploring a new neighborhood, ideas for date night, trying a new brunch or bakery, eating authentic Vietnamese, German, etc…) In Wandering Traveler, I regularly cover places all over, so let foodie-travel-adventurer friends beyond the Bay Area know, too.

Every month, I share Top Tastes, favorite new dishes, drinks and bites from my culinary explorations. This month, The Latest highlights Noe Valley’s brand new Contigo and Around the Bay is a journey to Napa. Further adventures in the French Quarter of New Orleans make up this month’s Wandering Traveler.

I’d love your feedback on any spots you visited from my site. I can create personalized itineraries for you or your friends and family with trips, outings or explorations for an evening, day or vacation (check out “Services“).

Let me guide you to the perfect spot!

Virginia

P.S. Don’t forget to check out my weekly San Francisco Bay Guardian online column, Appetite. Subscribe to it by RSS feed on the Arts & Culture blog (type in “appetite” in the search field to get the latest post), or bookmark the Food & Dining page for weekly restaurant/bar openings, events and deals in the Bay Area.

As always, a taste-rich month in my city. Visited old favorites like Tommy’s for champion margaritas, Little Delhi’s savory Indian in the Tenderloin (glad they now have chaat on the menu), brunch and cocktails at classy, retro Presidio Social Club, hit-the-spot cheeseburgers at Sam’s, and Pho Ga at Turtle Tower. Then there’s new spots that didn’t quite grab me upon first visit: I dig Outerlands‘ woodsy, rustic charm, accepting vibe and staff, and daily fresh concept, but found the food a little bland; Mission’s The Corner is a cool spot to linger over a book, and such friendly staff, but my lunch sandwiches were, again, bland – I prefer their breakfast of coffee cake and Four Barrel coffee; The Tipsy Pig, despite great bar food and drinks, heady library room and casual back patio, is ruined by the literally screaming din of Marina-ites out to play (maybe when they’re open all day one can find a quiet hour?) Now for some favorites this month:

BREAKFAST

•    I couldn’t be happier about my fave Italian restaurant starting Sunday brunch. The menu walks the line of Incanto classics (like Rustic Pork Ragu), Chef Chris Cosentino’s fantastic Boccalone meats and hearty egg dishes. I’d trust the “Butcher’s Treat”, which changes weekly (c’mon – be adventurous!) Three slices of hearty Beef Tongue was a recent “treat” ($15) served with perfectly poached eggs, piquant salsa verde and buttery grilled bread (Chris is the offal master). A crowd-pleaser is surely the amazing Milk Toast ($9), like French toast without the “eggy” factor, soaked and plumped-up in raisin juice, citrus peel and mascarpone.

•    Got out to the recently oft-blogged-about Trouble Coffee (a couple blocks from the ocean in the Sunset) for a triple-threat breakfast of Cinnamon toast, Coconut and Coffee ($7). Toast is buttery and thick, accented by the fresh simplicity of juice straight out of a coconut, but the local coffee was a letdown for me. Watery and flavorless, I could barely drink half of it (strong and robust for me, thank you). Three cheers for funky garage sale decor in this closet-sized space and for the playful breakfast idea. Too bad about the coffee.

SAVORY – VEGETARIAN

•    Midi just opened in the former FiDi Perry’s space, two levels devoted to chic Pan-Asian food with Cali/Euro flair. Cocktails are surprisingly good with housemade syrups aplenty. I found the Fava Bean & English Pea Puree Sandwich ($13) with shaved gruyère and lemon oil, a refreshing lunch.

SAVORY – SEAFOOD

•    Still in its soft-opening run in showpiece Frisson space (the retro-riffic dome of that former interior intact), A5 Steak Lounge’s food is surprisingly better than I expected given the lax attitude in service and clientele. I like the option of a small 7 oz. cut of NY steak ($15), though you can upgrade to 8 oz. Kobe for $29. A generous Mac ‘n Cheese side ($7) is cheesy, piping hot, covered in bread crumbs. Common as it sounded, my fave may have been the Crab Salad ($12) – fresh crab meat with avocado, blood oranges, mache and what tasted like pomegranate drizzle.

SAVORY – MEAT

•    I’m lucky to work near Dogpatch’s covert garage/ weekday lunch outfit (getting quite the buzz in less than two weeks of opening), Kitchenette, as one visit already has me craving more. With daily changing menu, here’s hoping I’ll again see the perfect Bahn Mi-like sandwich of Beer Tangerine roasted Berkshire Pork ($8) with cilantro, jalapeno, cabbage and a side of macaroni salad. Paired with tart Meyer Lemon/Tangerine/ Blood Orange juice of the day ($2)… watch out!

•    Mission’s bright new hole-in-the-wall, La Oaxaquena, is a Mexican bakery and eatery serving a range of Oaxacan specialties like tlayudas (a crispy flatbread covered with everything from beans to meat), spiced Oaxacan Hot Chocolate ($1.35), and Chicken Mole Enchiladas ($8.50). The latter is two enchiladas, beans and rice, with tender, shredded chicken, cooked to perfection in a downright addictive chocolate mole sauce that’s balanced with spices.

•    Cortez is often forgotten or underrated in my estimation. Yes, portions are sometimes small and pricey, but over the years, even with a chef change, I find it a place of consistent quality and taste married to creativity. Daily changing soup shots are winners, desserts some of the best in town and plates like Shrimps a la Plancha are richly satisfying. Despite the overabundance of Pork Belly on menus these days, I rave about Cortez‘ version ($16) accented with tart Rhubarb slices, a little frisee and Honey-Mustard emulsion.

DRINK

•    Pirate Cat Radio has a Bacon Maple Latte ($5) I won’t soon forget (can’t spend that much on coffee on a regular basis!) Adding African cayenne? Shot it to the stratosphere. My day couldn’t help but be right after that savory breakfast dream of a drink. Now for a side of scrambled eggs.

•    On a weeknight at Heaven’s Dog (which I only recommend for cocktails from the all-star bartender lineup), I took a Whiskey Freedom from Choice (bartender’s discretion – you choose the spirit), as pro, Jackie Patterson, shook up two lovely versions of the brown stuff in herbal, then citrus form. My latest choice on the regular menu is a 1932 recipe of Tiger’s Milk No. II, a frothy blend of Spanish brandy, rum, sugar, cream and nutmeg. That’s what I call a nightcap.

•   At Nirvino’s Mixology Contest at Tres Agaves on 3/31, Josh Harris, of newly re-opened/refreshed 15 Romolo, made my favorite creation of the night, which thankfully won: “Eye in the Sky“, Cielo Blanco Tequila, Yellow Chartreuse, Velvet Falernum, fresh lime and pineapple, Peychauds, topped with fresh grated nutmeg and a spanked sage leaf!

•    Bourbon and Branch has become quite my regular spot over the years and I await each new seasonal menu with expectation. Spring debuted last week with highlights being Joel Baker’s balanced beauty, Pear Sonata (Old Tom Gin, Elderflower Liqueur, Pear Eau de Vie, Dry Vermouth, Lemon, Pear-Elderflower Foam) and Ian Scalzo’s crazy, smoky Mariachi (Mezcal, Yellow Chartreuse, Cointreau, Lemon, Orange Bitters). But the best drink at B&B this March was a St. Patty’s Day-only special (again, from the brilliant Joel Baker): Finnegan’s Wake ($12), a savory, creamy dessert of Bacon Rasher-infused Black Bush Irish Whiskey, turbinado syrup (turbinated sugar made from sugar cane extract), egg white, Bitter Truth aromatic bitters with a bacon-redolent skewer of baked beans. All I can say is, Wow… please be a permanent fixture! Honorable mention goes to to Martin Cate’s Port Light (bourbon, passion fruit, honey), of my beloved Forbidden Island Tiki Lounge, who was mixing it up for B&B’s “Tropics in the Tenderloin” party the last two nights!

Contigo

1320 Castro Street (at 24th)
San Francisco, CA  94114
415-285-0250
www.contigosf.com
www.inpraiseofsardines.com

My cozy ‘hood of Noe Valley hasn’t had a truly noteworthy restaurant opening in some time. Though we have one-of-a-kind places like Incanto and Firefly, we lack in top-notch ethnic food (which makes me sad) or a slew of above-average options the amount of which some ‘hoods have. But merely one block from my apartment is a new place worth trekking across town for. Brett Emerson’s Contigo is here. His passion for Spanish food, perfected in many travels to Spain and education from their local chefs (not to mention his Chez Panisse background), shows in each touch, from organic, humane food sources, to a back patio garden, to restored woods in a sleek, inviting dining room. This opening has been a long time coming, as chronicled in Brett’s delightful blog, but, the wait? Oh, so worth it.

A wood-fired oven glows as you approach the front door, and unless you arrive early, be ready for a wait as they do not take reservations except for six or more. Though only open since March 3rd, multiple visits show few early kinks to work out. Service is welcoming and food comes out in steady flow. With a thoughtful drink list of Spanish-predominant wines and sherries (white sherry is an ideal aperitif), beers from Spain and the US, and crispy Spanish Cavas (champagne/sparkling wine), some of my favorites have been from the Portuguese wines. They’ll give a taste or two if you’re not sure what to choose.

The menu is reasonably priced with three Pica Pica (small plates, some quite small) for $21, or $8 each, top quality Jamon (hams) for $9 each (three for $24), and large plates ranging from $12-19. The long list of highlights is, true to Spain, heavy on the salty, with lots of anchovies (Anchoas del Cantabrico is four perfect filets drizzled in olive oil), sardines sourced from Spain (Brett has clearly learned the art of preparing anchovies and sardines), salted cod, squid. But there’s plenty to contrast with the salty. I rave about the balance found in the Sardinas en Escabeche, a silvery gray sardine filet punctuated with blood oranges, beet relish and chickpea puree. It covers multiple taste sensations – probably my favorite Pica Pica thus far. Oxtail Croquetas are already a hit here and rightly so – fragrantly warm with oxtail meat (on an alternate night, it was the secondary but still great Croquetas de Bacalao, or salt cod fritters). 18 and 36-month aged jamons from Spain make an appearance, as does superb Benton’s Smoky Mountain Country Ham from Tennessee (a big hit at SF’s Slow Food Nation event last year).

Judiones a la Segoviana ($16) is a generous serving of juicy butter beans with silky pork belly, pig ears and feet… yep, it’s fun food, y’all. Coques ($12-14) are wood-oven crisped, paper-thin Catalan flatbreads covered with pleasing options like jamon, manchego cheese, artichokes, Basque sausage. I love the Coca del Mercat with Rapini (aka Broccoli Rabe) and Carmelized Onions, although the Coca Amb Beco is smoky rich with Benton’s bacon.

Buzzing from the glow of conversation over a long meal with friends, take one final journey through the dessert menu with Blue Bottle Coffee (served in a French press). A Blood Orange Lemon Tart finishes with a fresh punch, while Churros with chocolate seem to be an early crowd favorite (I wanted my churros a little warmer and crispier, but I did down that chocolate!) For a non-cake lover like myself, the “Pastel Vasco” Almond Cake was a pleasant surprise: fluffy, creamy, not dry, with a thin layer of ollalieberry preserves at the bottom. Olive Oil ice cream is an ideal finish to a tour ’round seductive Spain.

Many are already comparing Contigo to hotspot SPQR. Though similar in small plates structure and no reservation policy, they’re pretty different. I personally prefer Contigo to SPQR, which I enjoy but find somewhat overhyped and heavy on the fried (SPQR’s fried brussel sprouts are worth all hype, however). Contigo is certainly a much needed new dining destination in Noe, but more so, it’s one of those rare places that transports you to a pace of life as it should be, where attention is paid to detail and a warm welcome awaits.

NAPA: of food, drink and Japanese cooking

A couple Spring excursions up to Napa this month meant more “Top Tastes” for me from new and not-so new restaurants. But first… an event that brought me up for a day was a rare afternoon of Japanese food at the Culinary Institute of America (CIA). With a cadre of visitors, including the Consul General of Japan, and speciality food producers of Wagyu beef or versatile nagaimo (a type of yam), main demos were cooking and instruction from three superb chefs: Kimio Nonaga, a grand champion Iron Chef from Tokyo (I ‘heart’ watching Japanese Iron Chef competitions on You Tube), Douglas Keane from Healdsburg’s fine dining temple, Cyrus (which I recently wrote about), and Nori Kusakabe from my longtime sushi fave, Sushi Ran in Sausalito. What a line-up! Reason enough to go.

Things started off with a bang as Chef Nonaga (intrepeter by his side), carved a giant, 120 lb. plus tuna from Japan. At market price of $1000, it was fascinating watching him wield samuri-like knife to slice through this behemoth of a fish which needed three men to lift it. The best part was that we ate from this beauty all afternoon as all three chefs had different takes on the ingredients. With a little sampling of different dashi (cooking stocks for soup broth) in front of us, we tasted a range of dishes the chefs cooked for us that hit all five basic tastes (sour, bitter, salty, sweet, umami), and received recipes of every dish cooked.

Highlights were many, including Meat & Potato Nikujaga (like a stew), Seared Tuna with Black Garlic Puree, traditional simmered Beef with Burdock over Rice (Yukari-style Gyudon), and Wagyu Beef with lotus, burdock, mitsuba (Japanese wild parsley) and myoga (edible ginger flower). Besides Keane’s memorable Wagyu Beef dish, the most exciting for me was Kusakabe’s experimental dessert of Brown Sugar-cured Tuna with Nagaimo yam. Cured for a day in brown sugar and brandy, the tuna is jelly-like with red bean between thin, crispy slices of yam, like a sandwich, wrapped in a salted sakura leaf. Genius. You’d never know it was tuna, so sweetly playful and candied it was. He’s trying this out for Sushi Ran so I hope to see it there soon.

This was just a preview of the CIA’s Worlds of Flavor event in November (tickets went on sale April 1), representing countries around the world, both in time-honored traditions and creativity. If this Japanese afternoon was a sample of the three day event coming in November, it’s going to be some damn good eatin’ and cookin’, educating in detail on authentic cuisines from those who know it intimately.

Any vegetarian I know would likely love Napa’s Ubuntu, raved about even by the hippie/granola-averse New York Times as 2nd best vegetarian restaurant in the country. Ubuntu, helmed by Jeremy Fox, formerly of Manresa and Rubicon, equally pleases the non-vegetarian with robust, savory dishes that make you forget there’s no meat. The slick, open space is stimulating, while alternative rock hits play in the background, with attentive, young servers. I’d have to say Millennium is probably still my favorite upscale vegetarian, but this would be second with nary a throwaway dish but for the chickpea fries, which were just ok. Beet Tartare ($11) is brightly crisp, colorful, laid out like a museum display. Lemon fried Brussel Sprouts over yellow corn grits ($14) are smoky and heartwarming. Roasted, partially pureed, Indian-spiced Cauliflower in a Cast Iron Pot ($14) is hot and rich with little toasts to spread it on. Jeremy’s wife, Deanie Fox, is the pastry chef (also of now defunct Rubicon, where they met), whose Bittersweet Chocolate Ganache ($9) is an artfully presented serving of dark, fudgy mini-cakes with caramel-like butterscotch, brown butter ice cream, curried peanuts and popcorn foam which extracts from me a “Hell, yeah!”

Been meaning to try Napa’s Barbers Q for some time… though inviting and crisply clean (a refined BBQ joint, if that isn’t an oxymoron!), I was a little disappointed in the food. It was all good enough but not memorable or overly authentic BBQ. I liked best the sliced Beef Brisket, ideal with Green Apple Coleslaw. A $17.95 lunch platter with Ribs (a little dry), Brisket and coleslaw was more than enough for one. I added $5 Pulled Pork to the dish to taste all key BBQ meats – as a pulled pork fanatic, it was alright. Loved the side of Rancho Gordo Cranberry Beans ($3.50) with collard greens, onions and Callegio ham hocks: aromatic, simple, packed with flavor.

I had to try famed Food Network chef, Michael Chiarello’s, new Bottega, in Yountville, though after only one visit, certainly need to return. The place is quite large, with a somewhat corporate chain-looking dining room, but inviting, massive, wrap-around patio strung with lights and dotted with fireplaces. Methinks it’ll be a fab spot for late afternoon drinks and appetizers. Initially trying pastas, they’re rich, heavy, and didn’t quite pack the flavor punch pasta greats do. But there’s a slew of appetizers and entrees I’d like to try next, so I’m definitely going back. Stay tuned.

Bardessono is Yountville’s modernistic, eco-resort (opened in February) with hardcore Japanese toilets, walls of growing grasses and a bar with drinks from SF’s own Thad Vogler (Jardinere, Heaven’s Dog, Slanted Door, soon to come Bar Agricole). There hasn’t been a wealth of fine cocktail options in understandably wine-heavy Napa, but Bardessono’s fireside, chic bar area with outside pool and patio couches, is the right spot for $12 and up cocktails made with local citrus and quality spirits. The drinks, more often than not, are mostly the same ones us SF locals have on menus where Thad has already spread his magic, like Beretta, so no need to go out of your way if you frequent any of the spots he consults for. Still, a welcome all day locale for imbibement in Wine Country.

Bouchon, the original, the best… remains a most idyllic venue for early evening oysters and champagne at the silver bar. Warm, Spring air wafts through open doors, classic jazz softly swoons, new friends are made and the staff pours tastes of wines to help you choose a glass. I would say I’m transported to Paris here, but the experience is fully Wine Country (with a Parisian touch). On a recent visit, the Maine Lobster Salad ($14.50) with duck confit gizzard, frisee, arugula, poached cherries and foie gras vinagrette, couldn’t have been a sweeter respite before an intoxicating sunset.

NEW ORLEANS

Back to incomparable New Orleans… I continue to share of my long list of finds after recently renting an apartment on the edge of the Quarter, exploring every neighborhood I could (here’s my last installment, more to come). The French Quarter, touristy though it may be, is everything it’s reputed to be and more (next time I’ll share fave jazz clubs and drink spots in the Quarter). With Euro-French flair yet decidedly Southern American feel, it just feels like New Orleans – a standard on its own. Beyond what can be the downright gross Bourbon Street, one steps into a world unmarred by the mobs relegated to that infamous party street with the possibility of becoming enchanted by intriguing storefronts, rousing street musicians, scents of mouth-watering food, colorful characters and gorgeous architecture.

FRENCH QUARTER BITES

•    La Divinia Gelateria is truly divine. There are two locations in NoLa, one in the Quarter, another on the Garden District’s Magazine Street, with gelato made from scratch and creamy as heck. I happily visited both locales, though frequented the Quarter location, thankfully blocks from my apartment. Not only serving robust cappuccinos, gelato flavors are unique, even for one like myself who has many adventurous ice cream options at home (like Humphry Slocumbe). Divinia makes one of the better Bananas Foster ice creams ever – tastes like ripe, fresh banana with a hint of brown sugar and rum. Creole Cream Cheese or Louisiana Mush Melon represent local flavors. Lush Sweet Potato? Brilliant. Absinthe Sorbetto? Right on! Saigon Cinnamon, Carrot Ginger Mascarpone, Candy Cane Stracciatella, Aztec (Dark Chocolate, Cayenne, Honey)… the list goes blissfully on.

•    Coop’s Place – Described in Zagat as the place where “the not-so-elite meet to eat”, this is an ‘only-in-Nawlins’ type of dive bar with crusty bartenders, colorful locals and young people from nearby Fauborg. But I kept coming back for one reason: Rabbit & Sausage Jambalaya ($4.75 a cup), which works as a mid-afternoon or late-night snack. It just plain works. Tender, shredded rabbit, spicy Andouille sausage, sweet tomatoes, chewy rice. I’d order at the bar and happily walk down the street eating the best jambalaya ever. They’ve also got gumbo, po boys, blackened fish.

•    Gumbo Shop – This old school classic is not a dining priority, nor did it’s famed gumbo thrill me. But on a cold NoLa night, Chicken Andouille Gumbo ($4.99 a cup)  comforted with its brown roux and rice. It helped tide me over waiting in line for oysters at Acme Oyster House’s oyster bar, a colorful experience to be sure (though I fear I’m not one for bulbous Gulf oysters – I prefer delicacy in my bivalves. Anyway, I digress…)

•    Central Grocery – It’s a must to hit this legendary, dusty, little market on Decatur Street opened by Sicilians in 1906, for famed Muffaletta sandwiches. Even a “half muff” is massive, though still worked as a shared ’snack’ with the Renaissance Man. Salami, mortadella, olive spread, provolone, is classic Italian, though I found the stuffing of meats and cheeses just a little thin. Stuff that baby! A classic NoLa taste experience, rich with history.

•    Croissant d’Or Patisserie – This cozy French patisserie was a couple blocks from my apartment, with decent pastries, cappuccinos and a clientele of predominantly locals, being off the beaten Quarter path. To me, it wasn’t as fresh or buttery as favorite patisseries back home but it worked for breakfast I could bring back to my pad and eat on my balcony, certainly preferable to nearby cafes.

FRENCH QUARTER RESTAURANTS

•    K-Paul’s – I remember watching Paul Prudhomme on TV as a kid, thinking he and Dom Deluise were one in the same man. With that lifelong association and his Cajun spices on my brain, my first New Orleans’ dinner reservation was K-Paul’s, the cooking legend’s restaurant, which has not lost its luster with age. When the basket of varied homemade breads arrived (including a stellar cornbread, Jalapeno cheese bread and the like), each one filled me with such buttery goodness, I was ready to call it a meal. Fortunately (unfortunately for my stomach), it was barely the beginning. After my always-order-it-when-on-the-menu dish of Fried Green Tomatoes ($11) in cornmeal batter with plump shrimp and Paul’s renowned remoulade sauce, followed by a housemade Sausage ($8.50) of roasted Vidalia onion, chipotle and cheddar in a creole sauce, I entered another dimension. Blackened Drumfish with Crabmeat ($31.95), Triple Chocolate Bread Pudding ($6)… you probably should be stomach-pumped after a visit here, so my warning for us Californians or healthy eaters (I’m the former, not the latter!), as with Southern food in general, is to pace yourself. With caring service and casually elegant brick-walled dining room, I found K-Paul’s classic, quintissential New Orleans cooking.

•    Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse – Dressed in our retro finest, the Renaissance Man and I came to Dickie Brennan’s for a Rat Pack era steakhouse experience, replete with martini and in Nawlins’ tradition, Turtle Soup ($6.50). I was thrown off upon entering to find the place packed with families, kids and noisy frat-type groups. Not what I’d hoped for in a pricey steakhouse. But as we were celebrating an anniversary, they gave us a full booth to ourselves and the endearing servers charmed us into (almost) forgetting the less than transporting surroundings. With a fabulous steak ($28-42) and even more fabulous lobster from Nova Scotia, we were won over. A hefty Napoleon ($7.50) tower of tomato, Danish blue cheese and garlic aioli croutons, topped with a remoulade, should be standard at every steakhouse.

•    Mona Lisa Pizza – A block from my apartment, Mona Lisa was an ideal ’stay-in tonight’ meal and oh, so good. In general, there were certain cuisines, Italian among them, which I decided to avoid on this trip to free up time to focus on uniquely local cuisines (though the Creole Italian of the region is something I want to explore more of). But Mona Lisa’s cheesy, thickishly-thin crust pizzas reminded me of my childhood beacon in La Mirada, California, where I lived a couple years as a kid, Gondola Pizza: a family-run establishment with pizza that evokes happiness in every bite. Essential in my book to great pizza is sauce that is sweet-savory, tons of cheese and crust the right blend of crispy and doughy. Mona Lisa had all that, carrying me back to childhood elation when Dad would walk through the door with a pizza from Gondola.

•    Nola – I had to try one of three Emeril restaurants on his home turf, having only been to his Delmonico’s steakhouse in Vegas. After much research, Nola seemed to be the best-reviewed of the three. As I feared, it was one giant plate after another, impossible to finish, even when shared. But each plate was a good time from hefty Miss Hay’s Stuffed Chicken Wings ($8), stuffed with cellophane noodles, mushrooms, onions, to Shrimp & Grits ($18) swimming in red chili and Abita butter sauce, accented with apple-smoked bacon and crimini mushrooms, to a Duck Confit & Fried Egg Pizza ($11)… comfort food with fusion-y vision. Maybe I was so overstuffed it was lost on me, but a real misstep, besides a sterile dining room, was dessert. White Chocolate Bananas Foster Bread Pudding ($6) sounded like a dream but was subpar to other bread puddings I’ve had and I’d heard it was done right here. Catch phrases and Martha Stewart aside, Emeril still showcases a hearty Nawlins’ meal at NoLa (though better for lunch, in my estimation).

•    Arnaud’s – So I was an idiot not to hit Galatoire’s for Sunday jazz brunch. I own up to it. It’s top of the list for my next visit. When narrowing down from the sea of traditional jazz brunches, Arnaud’s rose up, partly because of recommendations from locals I trusted and as the menu made me salivate. Delighted to see Arnaud’s in a scene of “The Curious Case of Benjamin Button” after my visit (a movie I wasn’t  impressed with other than the magical Nawlins’ setting), I fondly recalled Dixieland serenades from the in-house trio (“Basin Street Blues“, a highlight), the three hour breakfast, and that Bourbon Milk Punch ($5). Not for anorexic dieting types, portions were at least reasonable so you could get through the richness. Entrees ($27-35) appear outrageously priced but it’s actually the cost for your entire four course brunch, including appetizer, a throwaway salad, entree and dessert. I loved a Creole Cream Cheese Evangeline starter (over fresh fruit) and awesome Savory Crabmeat Cheesecake (trust me!) Cafe Brulot ($6.50), a show-stopping, flaming spiked coffee, is well worth ordering. Legendary Bananas Foster prepared tableside is the necessary finish to a decadent, old-world brunch I’m comforted to know is kept alive somewhere in America.

FRENCH QUARTER SHOPS

I don’t usually mention shops – got enough to write about with food and am not a “shopper” anyway. But I had to give honorable mention to three places that charmed me. First, Faulkner House Books in Pirate’s Alley where Faulkner once lived, is an enchanting closet of a shop recalling great London bookshops, intelligence oozing from the shelves, a sweetheart of a shopkeeper (from San Fran!) and a supreme book selection that could occupy a book lover for hours despite the size of the store.

Reminiscent of Parisian shops, La Maison d’Abinsthe (aka, the Absinthe Museum) is not a museum, but rather a shop of all things Absinthe (fountains, spoons, glasses, books, soaps, cards). The first of its kind in the US, finding it actually open was the hard part. I passed it daily but it was open only twice with no posted hours. Once you make it in, it’s a magical display themed around “the green fairy”.

When I first knew I was going to NoLa, I realized the chance had come to finally visit Trashy Diva, a beloved clothes line I’ve followed via the web for years. Despite the name, it’s anything but trashy, rather gorgeous vintage reproduction with a modern twist, all fabrics designed by the shop owner herself, who reputedly never repeats a fabric so you’re getting a rare piece. With a lingerie sister shop down the block (and another shop in the Uptown district), I tried on dresses with a fit meant for curves, complimentary to a woman’s body the way dresses in the 40’s and ’50’s were. Though they’re expensive for regular intake on my part, ordering online has been a success (something I’d normally never do), but much better to try on in person before heading to the street where strangers compliment your unique find.