May
15
2009

May 15, 2009

“Yet still the unresting castles thresh
In fullgrown thickness every May.
Last year is dead, they seem to say
Begin afresh, afresh, afresh.”
- “The Trees”, Philip Larkin


What’s another issue of The Perfect Spot doing in my inbox so soon, you might be thinking? Well, as I briefly mentioned in my last issue, I’m experimenting taking the few articles I write a month and splitting it between the 1st and 15th of the month. It enables me to be more current since I have so much news to share with you by a month’s time, and maybe slightly shorter (i.e. more readable?) rather than one long newsletter. I’m trying this out so, as always, very much value your feedback!

An idyllic afternoon at Sutro's at the Cliff House

An idyllic afternoon view from Sutro's at the Cliff House

It’s been a couple weeks full of Top Tastes, favorite new dishes, drinks and bites from my culinary explorations. Good Evening Thursdays upstairs at Bruno’s just began and are indeed good… in Happenings. Imbiber pays tribute to the USBG SF and National Bartenders’ competitions on 5/12. In The Established, join me for dinner at Mission Beach Cafe.

Have five food/drink/travel-loving friends sign up for The Perfect Spot newsletter, and I’ll give you “The Perfect Meal” recommendations for a meal based on your request (e.g. exploring a new neighborhood, date night, eating Vietnamese, German, etc…) In Wandering Traveler, I regularly cover places all over the world, so let foodie-travel-adventurer friends beyond the Bay Area know, too.

I’d love your feedback on any spots visited from my site. As your Bay Area concierge, I create personalized itineraries for you or your friends: trips, meals, explorations (check out “Services“).

Let me guide you to the perfect spot!

Virginia

- Follow me on Twitter: http://twitter.com/ThePerfectSpot

- Check out my weekly San Francisco Bay Guardian online column, Appetite, by subscribing by RSS feed on the Arts & Culture blog (type in “appetite” in the search field to get the latest), or bookmark the Food & Dining page.

**Unless otherwise noted, all photos by Virginia Miller**

Written by Virginia in: Intro Letter |
May
15
2009

Top Tastes

(Upon discovering champagne): “Come quickly! For I am drinking in the stars.”- Dom Perignon

Good eatin' from Pican's Kentucky Derby spread

Good eatin' from Pican's Kentucky Derby spread

Let’s go ahead and give the whole spread at Pican’s Kentucky Derby Party in Oakland a nod. Hard-pressed to pick from the all-you-can-eat (and drink – Mint Juleps) menu: it might be Louisiana Crawfish Toasts, signature Buttermilk Fried Chicken (in wing form), super-smoky Ham Biscuits with an addictive chowchow (pickled veggie relish with a hint-of-mustard), or was it boozy rich Bourbon Chocolate Balls? Don’t make me choose.

SAVORY – VEGETARIAN

Vegan Pumpkin Bolani with Lentil Curry from East & West Gourmet Afghan Food’s table at Thursday’s Farmers Market at Crocker Galleria. Comforting goodness.

SAVORY – SEAFOOD

Divine Sauteed Maine Sea Scallops ($29) with Rancho Gordo beans, swiss chard and Meyer lemon, at chic wine and dining haven, RN74. But let’s just say there’s way more where that came from! More on Michael Mina’s latest soon…

Tacos at El Cachinilla

Tacos at El Cachanilla

SAVORY – MEAT

• A tasty as hell Al Pastor Taco ($1.50) from El Cachanilla’s straight-outta-Mexico window. Flecked with bits of pineapple, I added beans and scorching salsa to the pork – a heavenly bite for Mexican-food lovers like moi.

• It’s so trendy, I hate to add to the din but the Korean taco craze that has taken over LA (thanks, Kogi), is slowly working its way through SF. John’s unassuming little FiDi deli is the last place you’d expect to find the unusual, but head there on your lunch break for Korean tacos or burritos loaded with kimchi, your choice of bulgogi beef, bbq chicken, pork or tofu, plus lettuce, cilantro, cheese, onions and his mom’s secret Korean sauce.

Martins West: gastropub meets Old West

Martins West: Edinburgh gastropub meets Old West

• When I heard Walzwerk owners were opening a German haufbrau-style, (soon-to-be) all-day eatery, Schmidt’s Deli, I was delighted as there just ain’t enough German food around. After a couple visits since soft-opening on May 6, I’m drawn in by the sparse, clean room, friendly German staff, German groceries (slated to grow), and impeccably fresh, but still keeping the ‘heart’ in hearty,  fare. It’s ALL good: Veal Schnitzel with sour cream & dill, juicy Wild Boar Sausage, apple-fragrant sauerkraut, and a killer Cheese Spaetzle (read more in my Guardian “Appetite” column).

Martins West, in Redwood City’s historic Alhambra building Wyatt Earp himself once frequented, the long, brick, wood space nods to the Old West in decorative touches (old photographs, candle chandeliers), while modeling itself on Martins Pub in Edinburgh, Scotland. Initial tastes proved strong, especially Black (blood) Pudding ($12), Pheasant & Leek Banger ($9), and a Devonshire Cream Tartlet. But perhaps my favorite: a breaded, fried Scottish Egg ($4) with sausage. Yes!

Chicken Hash at Bix

Chicken Hash at Bix

• Friday lunches at Bix evoke that 1930’s elegance I adore so: sweeping deco staircase, grand piano, salads tossed and martinis shaken tableside. The hand-cut Steak Tartare ($13.95) is mixed tableside with shallots, capers, parsley & mustard, to striking effect, and their classic Chicken Hash a la Bix, part of the $19.95, two-course lunch special, is heartily delicious.

SWEET

Humphry Slocumbe could easily be in my “Top Tastes” every month. As its been awhile since I mentioned them, thought I’d give a nod to some recent flavors that have been rocking my world, like Cream Cheese Chocolate Chip (tart/sweet with choco shavings) or smoky Scotch Rye (as in rye seeds) made with 10-year Laphroaig scotch? Hold me back.

Sutro’s at the Cliff House is definitely improved with George Morrone at the helm. Can’t help but feel a tinge of corporate chain in the decor, but service is attentively sharp without being invasive, food consistently strong and the view… well, glorious. Dessert was a perfect finish: tart Frozen Lemon Souffle ($9) dotted with lemon zest, served with blueberries, aged balsamic, lemon curd, citrus shortbread and a hint of black pepper.

DRINK

Frozen Lemon Souffle seaside at Sutro's

Frozen Lemon Souffle seaside at Sutro's

Fly Bar, formerly Brick, is THE new happy hour deal. Went opening night (May 1) with a group and had a blast. Pizzas half price for only $4.50? And they’re good, too, from Jimmy the Greek to Southwestern to Carmel Blue (gorgonzola, mozzarella, caramelized onions, white garlic sauce). Playful cocktails are $5 (still a deal at full price: $7-8), my fave being a root beer with benefits: Island Root Beer (New Orleans’ Abita root beer, rum and house-made ginger syrup).

• Enjoyed a strong,  smooth Burnt Fig Sazerac (rye, muddled burnt figs, agave nectar, orange bitters, absinthe rinse) and a balanced Cactus Flower (Cazadores Reposado, elderflower liqueur, lavender-infused simple syrup, Creme de Cassis, lime) at 83 Proof in FiDi (did not enjoy the screaming din of happy hour crowds, however, so must go on weekends or late). The staff know cocktails.

• In honor of SF Cocktail Week, a special menu at Bourbon & Branch included the Indian flavors of  Ian Scalzo’s‘ frothy Elephant Eyebrows ($12): gin, garam masala, honey syrup, fresh lime, nutmeg.

Periodista at Clock Bar

Periodista at Clock Bar

• Two beauties at Clock Bar to celebrate SF Cocktail Week: an 1862 recipe, the balanced Japanese Cocktail ($13) from Bon Vivant’s Companion (Hennessy cognac, housemade agave orgeat, Angostura bitters on the rocks), and bar manager, Marco Dionysos‘, refreshing, nuanced Periodista ($14), inspired by the classic Journalist: Partida Anejo, Amaro Nonino, orchard apricot, fresh lemon, egg white, habanero tincture, with drops of Angostura.

Written by Virginia in: Top Tastes |
May
15
2009

Happenings

Pussycat!

Pussycat!

GOOD EVENING THURSDAYS
Bruno’s
2389 Mission Street at 20th Street
415-643-5200
Reservations: goodeveningthursday@gmail.com

I couldn’t let much time go by without telling you about Good Evening Thursdays. Similar to a Mission St. Food scenario, this is a skilled team from various restaurant backgrounds creating a weekly changing menu in a unique space… but unlike other experimental meal “events”, this one has Rat Pack-chic with a touch of sassy sex appeal (read on!)

The short-but-sweet menu on debut night satisfied: Filet Mignon with bone marrow ($22), Oysters Rockefeller ($12), Chop Salad ($9), Burger & Fries ($15), even Prime Rib for two ($40), are served in Bruno’s intriguing upstairs room. If I had to name a stand-out, it probably was the tender, bleeding-rare filet with fine pairing of bone marrow and glazed carrots.

On their debut night, May 7th (reservations-only, thankfully, so no waits), I walked up the leopard-carpeted stairs for my 8:30 reservation (8pm until 2am – we’re big city folk now!) into a room that evoked Betty Page sexy and the spirit of a Parisian, speakeasy club.

Yes, she' watching you as you eat!

Yes, he's watching you!

A cheesy, creepy cat hangs over the proceedings, near a little bar, while “Pussycat” illumines the wall in giant ’60’s lettering, a little Bardot/Gainsbourg, a little Austin Powers. Despite campy touches, the intimate space, with corner nooks, maintains its class. That is, until you get to the gold pole in the middle of the room. I don’t want to make any assumptions about its purpose, but let’s just say if you sip too many martinis or want to show off for your date, it could be a little too tempting to make use of it.

With a delightful team of waiters in vintage suits, the ’60’s French aspect marries Sinatra/Martin/Davis/Bishop/Lawrence attitude.  I felt like I could be in a Vegas mobsters’ club or private restaurant in old New York with the other ’swells’, sipping martinis and slurping oysters. A perfect excuse to dress up and put on your best heels (any excuse is a good one for me!)

Though I’d miss the exclusive fun upstairs, I look forward next time to staying downstairs in the bar where those sans reservation also get a Thursday night-only menu with options like Let’s Be Frank Hot Dogs on an Acme Bun ($9) with choice of beef chili & onions or kimchi relish & bacon mayo. If hot dogs aren’t your scene, how about Marin Sun Farms Pork Bahn Mi ($9) or Mary’s Chicken Wings ($9) with Blood Orange and chili sauce? You can stick with Kennebec Fries ($6) or Pork Rilettes ($7), too. It’s glorified bar food, to be sure.

An inviting table upstairs at Bruno's

An inviting corner table

It can’t be a secret for long, but being there on debut night, it sure felt like one. Albeit, the kind of “secret” where Alice Waters is at the table next to you (shhhh, you didn’t hear that from me…)

Chefs and partners include Chris Kronner of Serpentine and Slow Club, and Sam White of Chez Panisse and Open Restaurant, plus Christa Manolo of Beretta making cocktails. This crew is onto something unique, memorable and altogether one-of-a-kind. Good Evening Thursdays, indeed.

Written by Virginia in: Happenings |
May
15
2009

Imbiber

SF Cocktail Week has already been a whirlwind of fun and a showcase of the incredible talents and tastes of our cocktail city. And it isn’t over yet! See you at Jardinere’s closing party on Monday…

Here’s my mini-tribute to the San Francisco regional and the US national United States Bartenders’ Guild competitions held all day on Tuesday, May 12, at Harry Denton’s Starlight Room. Congrats to the winners and kudos to all competitors – we surely have some fine talent behind the bar in our city and country.

collage-1

San Francisco Regional awards went to:
1st PlaceRonaldo Colli’s (from Americano) “Kama Sutra”
2nd Place
- Jimmy Patrick’s (from Lion and Compass) “Rita Milano”
3rd PlaceMarc Goldfine’s (from 83 Proof) “The Starry Night”
Best Technical PerformanceRonaldo Colli

collage-2
National awards went to:
1st PlaceArmando Rosario, Las Vegas “Real Dill”
2nd Place
- DJ Love, Chicago “Aztec Gold”
3rd PlaceRicky Gomez, New Orleans “The Real Pepper Daisy”
Best Technical PerformanceRonaldo Colli, San Francisco “Kama Sutra”

Written by Virginia in: Imbiber |
May
15
2009

The Established

Heartwarming pot pies

Heartwarming pot pies

Mission Beach Cafe
198 Guerrero Street (at 14th)
San Francisco, CA 94103
415-861-0198
www.missionbeachcafesf.com

I’ve long loved Mission Beach Cafe for Blue Bottle Coffee (perfect cappuccinos and espressos), some of SF’s best pastries and a rockin’ brunch. With Thomas Martinez back, now as Executive Chef (age 22 and already this good? Watch out!), the dinner menu is also a journey worth taking.

If Grilled Flabtreads of the day ($11) all pack the flavor-punch of this one, you’re in for a thrill: Mt. Tam Triple Cheese, arugula, Bahri dates, caramelized pepper bacon, drizzled in balsamic vinegar. They had me at “tripel”.

Arugula Strawberry Salad

Arugula Strawberry Salad

Avocado Mango Salad ($9) kicks into gear with barrel-aged feta and mango vinaigrette. Another ideal mix? Arugula Strawberry Salad ($9) with shaved fennel and candied “quinoa balsamic cracker”. Order a glass or bottle of the 2007 Voss Sauvignon Blanc ($11/42) and your starters will be brightened by its crisp, grapefruit notes.

Entrees are generous, well-cooked and quite tasty from famed Pot Pies ($18 – come Tuesdays to try all varieties: I’ll take rabbit, thank you), to a beautiful Confit Duck Leg ($21) over fava beans and beets. A medium rare Prather Ranch Beach Burger ($13.50) is lightly blackened (outside), pink (inside), with aged gouda, caramelized onion and mushrooms gushing forth from under the bun. One of the better burgers I’ve had in awhile. Paired with Kennebec fries in truffle oil and shaved Parmesan, it shoots into the stratosphere. You could add bacon or avocado ($2) but that would just be gluttonous.

Stunning burger and truffle parmesan fries

Stunning burger and truffle Parmesan fries

Desserts, from Pastry Chef par excellence, Alan Carter, are one great pie, cookie or cake after another. You can’t really go too wrong. I crave the tartness of Lemon Velvet Cream Pie or crazy-good Banana Butterscotch Cream Pie (both $6.50).

From a choice of five or so dessert wines and ports, Arrested Zinfandel ‘06 Port from Napa ($12), is robust with a hint of sweet (and a whiff of butterscotch!) Quady Essentia’s ‘06 Orange Muscat ($8) from Madera is bright, apricot-orange, and a sexy finish to a meal. But my top choice is probably Truchard’s ‘05 Late Harvest Botrytis (that’s “noble rot” to you). A viscous acidity reveals hints of pear, peach, honey. Gorgeous.

**All photos in this article by Rick Camargo: www.rickycphotography.com**

Written by Virginia in: The Established |

Site Admin | Log out | Theme: Aeros 2.0 by TheBuckmaker.com