SAVORY – VEGETARIAN

• There are a number of Burmese gems in SF (see last month’s Top Tastes), but I’ve been getting my lunch lately at a little alley Burmese restaurant that’s quite tasty: Yellow Pa Taut. Traditional Tea Leaf or Ginger Salad ($9.95 each) are treated well here (ask for the Ginger Salad without dried shrimps if you’re a vegetarian). Some curries are a little oily, but savory and filling, with lots of fluffy rice.

• You wouldn’t expect culinary adventure in a nightclub, would you? I sure didn’t, which is why Brian Beach’s (formerly at Aqua and Cosmopolitan) recently launched menu at Infusion Lounge is a pleasant surprise. “Whimsical” ($9) is technically not vegetarian since the ice cream is made with bacon, but there’s no actual meat in this daring, well-executed dish: 63-degree egg with bacon ice cream, chive and sourdough toasts. The cream of the egg and ice cream meld into one savory, lush mix. Paired with a peppery Santa Carolina Carmenere from Chile ($7 a

glass), a smoky essence explodes. I felt like I was having breakfast… or maybe BBQ (see “Seafood” for another great dish.)

• 54 Mint, helmed by New York’s Il Buco chef, now an SF transplant, serves up some filling Italian fare. I love the delicate Octopus Carpaccio ($10) and was comfortingly filled by Arancina di Carne ($10 – rice ball stuffed with ragout), but it was the Caponata ($8), eggplant ratatouille with sweet, grilled peppers and onions, that lingered with me.

• Flour+Water may be yet another artisan pizza, pasta, charcuterie spot, but I still found worthwhile tastes, even if there are better pizzas around town (theirs still works, especially the Uovo/egg pizza, $15). There’s a bright, fresh Summer Squash Salad ($10) with duck prosciutto, toasted pistachio and vibrant basil leaves. I was especially struck by Sweet Pea & Ricotta Tortelli ($16) enlivened by mint, Meyer lemon and pig cracklings for some crisp (vegetarians, ask for it without the latter). PS – Kudos to the Paxton Gate-like bathroom display from Paxton’s designer, Sean Quigley.

SAVORY – MEAT

• In the wood and brass bar area of Grand Cafe, happy hour is a pleasure with a glass of wine or a cocktail (like Elphaba’s Wicked Emerald-tini: Hendrick’s Gin, Ciroc Vodka, St. Germain Elderflower, basil, cucumber, lemongrass syrup, $10 or $6 at happy hour… one of three inspired by “Wicked” at nearby Orpheum). Gougere d’ Escargots ($9), essentially escargot sliders in Chartreuse-garlic-parsley butter, go down like juicy jewels on puff pastry.

•  Little Skillet has been a good time from day one. How can I resist chicken & waffles from an alley walk-up window? They just went up a notch in my book by feeding my love of Cheese Grits with or without Andouille Sausage (with, thank you very much!) With maple syrup mixed in, there’s a hint of sweet to the savory, smooth cup o’ grits.

• Yes, Korean tacos and burritos risk getting played-out, but not yet in our city – and in an internet cafe? Slipping into Golden Gate Perk for a Spicy Pork Taco ($3) doused in lime is transporting – feels like I’m 23 and backpacking alone through Europe again… minus the Korean tacos. Low ceilings, top-40 hip hop playing (rock on, Kanye’s “Amazing“), sweet Korean owners, and European clientele checking email. But the best part is that these are damn good tacos – an ideal balance of meat and kimchi.

• On opening day lunch at new gourmet BBQ haven in FiDi, Wexler’s, I dug the minimalist, European-bistro reminiscent space, draft beer list (Allegash, Ommegang, hooray!) and uber-fresh Monterey Bay Squid Salad ($9) with chunks of fried green tomato (yeah!), pickled Fresno chilis and frisee. The 4505 Meats Mission Dog ($11) with bacon works (wanted it wrapped in bacon instead of bacon chunks), but I could just keep eating the “Sloppy Joe” ($12). Despite being engulfed in Acme bread, it was loaded with savory, tender Texas-style burnt ends, considered a delicacy as choice cuts of brisket. Read more in my SF Bay Guardian Appetite column.

SAVORY – SEAFOOD

• “Transcendence” ($13) is just that at Infusion Lounge. A thrill of a take on a BLT, with the flavor profile of a BLT but one creative path to get there! Hiramasa (yellowtail kingfish) is splayed out sashimi-style, tomato gelee to the side, topped with a frozen sorbet scoop of, yes, iceberg lettuce and pea shoots. The plate is streaked with Wasabi mayo, dusted with bacon powder. Brian Beach’s possibility and passion show in these kinds of dishes… and it happens at a nightclub (see “Vegetarian” for his Whimsical egg dish). Slip in post-work during happy hour (till 8pm with discounted drinks) for the unexpected.

• A Sunday afternoon at FISH is always idyllic. Seafood at picnic tables, sittin’ on the docks as houseboats squeak in the water, sipping beer from a mason jar. The good life (albeit at a price – sandwiches are $25, y’all! But portions are huge, so share!) On a radiant blue Sunday, I blissfully ordered Monterey Sardines ($14) from the specials board – plump, with lemon squeezed over them, their silver grilled skins shimmering in the sun atop a huge salad.

SWEET

• At Supperclub’s rousing Uber Dinner II on June 1, Jamie Lauren (Absinthe, Top Chef) and Jennie Lorenzo (Fifth Floor), prepared a one-night only 4-course feast with Guus Wickenhagen, Supperclub’s Exec Chef. Besides being one sensual experience of show, massage, food, drink, lounging, music, dance, it was fun to see what each chef created, my dessert rave for the night being Lorenzo’s Black Licorice Candy Parfait with strawberries. Tasted like an absinthe and berries cream – exquisite! Once the sparkling, blue bunny came out and the place erupted into a spontaneous dance party, it officially became a Monday night to remember.

DRINK

• Oh, boy. Coffee at darling, closet-sized Farm: Table is one non-stop joy. From a Tendernob (their version of a Gibraltar and ode to the ‘hood) to a bitter, strong espresso, it’s all beautiful, using Verve Coffee Roasters from Santa Cruz. Paired with apricot bread pudding or grapefruit bread as you sit in the picturesque window or sidewalk tables, feels like the best of a European lifestyle.

• Two vinos I especially enjoyed at Flour+Water are Anselmi’s San Vicenzo from Veneto ($7 glass/$28 bottle), a bright garganega white with hints of peach and nuts. A 2004 Di Bruno Sangiovese from Santa Barbara’s Stolpman Vineyard ($11.50 glass/$45 bottle) is smooth with smoky, cherry notes.

• Domaine Chandon hosted a fabulous Art of the Cocktail party on June 4 with DJ Dukes playing the tunes we all want to dance to (morphed into quite the dance party, let me tell you!) on Chandon’s scenic open-air tasting room and back patio.  NOPA’s Neyah White was the perfect guest bartender creating champagne cocktails using Chandon’s sparkling wines. A number of highlights, my top taste was his cardamom-infused cocktail. Sparkling wine, cocktail attire and great music under the stars makes for a truly magical Napa Summer evening. Join me at the next one?

Monterey/Pacific Grove/Carmel

A recent weekend trip to the Monterey/Pacific Grove/Carmel area was ‘just what the doctor ordered’ for my deadline/detail-overloaded mind lately. The Renaissance Man and I took to the rocks along the sea like kids, climbing as far out as we could get, oohing and aahing at big waves and shimmering blue. California is one gorgeous place and there’s a reason why whenever I’ve lived in other states or been away from its shores, it calls me back like a siren song. Whether it was Laguna Beach as a girl or Nor Cal’s windswept shores as a woman, it’s home.

The coast along the Monterey area is spectacularly rich, with moss, vibrant flowers, exploding in purples and feathery waves, rocks just begging to be climbed on. Sunsets are spectacular, and shifting breezes from chilly to warm, are all part of the moods of this ethereal coastline.

Monterey Aquarium: mind-blowing as that jellyfish exhibit is, swimming through the never-ending sea of scrambling kids and strollers was near hellish after a couple hours. Besides walking the streets of Carmel and visiting it’s striking Spanish Mission, best hours were spent watching waves, reading poetry on the sand, taking in sunsets. That’s our backdrop… now where do we eat?!

DRINKS

Hula’s Tiki Room, Monterey – No match for Forbidden Island, it at least has that kitschy, retro charm I love, even if drinks are just alright. They aren’t awful – a Dark & Stormy ($8 – Whalers Dark Rum & Cock-n-Bull Ginger Brew) works. With surfing on the TV and regulars at the bar, it’s a relaxing way to start the weekend… tiki-style!

Sardine Factory, Monterey – It’s old school, expensive, and a Monterey institution. I’ve heard pretty mixed reviews on the food so skipped it, but the multi-room restaurant is uniquely engaging (love the Conservatory and Wine Cellar), and a drink in the bar feels like being a high roller in the ’70’s/’80’s. When the fire is roaring and the piano lounge singer moves deftly from Neil Diamond to the Temptations to Sinatra, you’re feeling goood.

Artisanal cocktails these are not, but I thoroughly enjoyed sipping a Grasshopper (creme de menthe, creme de cacao, fresh cream – it’s been a long time!) in homage to the classy, ’70’s vibe. Singing along by a roaring fire, even the spontaneous dance party that broke out when he sang “Sweet Home Alabama“, made for a delightful evening: partly Vegas/Reno, partly party-in-a-rich-friends’-dated-house. I found myself grateful that places like this still exist. At 10:30pm, it’s a ‘late night’ option for these parts.

The Tuck Box, Carmel-by-the-Sea - A darling little, “down the rabbit hole” kind of spot for tea, it, once again, isn’t about great food (we’re in the ‘burbs now!) but about charm and a place to linger with conversation or a book over tea and scones. This architecture admittedly feels like Disneyland, but it nonetheless is part of Carmel-by-the Sea’s yuppie-gone-quirky appeal.

The Carmel Coffee House, Carmel-by-the-Sea - Through a narrow courtyard of Spanish-style architecture, this is a quintessential California courtyard, ideal for a morning cup of coffee, if you can deal with dog-friendly hordes. The coffee isn’t notable, by any means, but they make a decent cappuccino.

FOOD

Passionfish, Pacific Grove – Pacific Grove (PG, as locals call it) is my favorite part of the whole area. Charming Victorians, sleepy streets and a dramatic coastline all bode well… but also, it housed my favorite meal of the weekend. Service wasn’t perfect in this understated dining room, but it was well-meaning and quite informed of where its local, sustainable seafood comes from, a point of pride on a meticulous menu. Husband and wife owners, Ted (chef) and Cindy Walter, clearly display their passion in each dish – a virtual treat from Berkshire Ham Arancini ($6) to Rosemary Strawberry ice cream with passion fruit & pineapple coulis. Our meal ideally paired with a recommended bottle of 2006 Tablas Creek Vineyard Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc. A layered white blend that tastes of honeysuckle, lemon, carmel apple and meringue… with a long mineral finish. Gulf of Maine Scallops ($24), with thyme risotto custard in tomato-truffle butter, were giant, juicy and seared just right. And hard-to-find Monterey Spot Prawns ($24), native to these local shores (and Santa Barbara), were just like our waitress described: the appearance of crawfish with the buttery taste of a lobster. Getting down and dirty to dig tender meat out was a pleasure, especially when there’s lemon brown butter to dip it in. Served with a cauliflower bacon linguine, it’s a filling dish. I’d come back just for the spot prawns… when they’re on the menu.

Flying Fish Grill, Carmel-by-the-Sea – Have long heard raves about this half-underground Japanese haven for fresh seafood. The food showed creativity and portions were large, though often puzzlingly paired with angel hair pasta, local fish and artichokes plentiful on the menu. Service was haphazard: at 8:30pm, we were seated next to an uproariously loud table on one side (in an an otherwise quiet, small space) and a family of about 8 with kids on the other, with nowhere to move. With entrees ranging from $19-33, we were hoping for a slightly more grown-up experience for that price. Too bad, given that the pricey fare stands strong. Free ginger salsa & wontons (basically Asian ‘chips and salsa’) to start, are a little too easy to polish off. Rare Peppered Ahi ($26) was overcooked initially, which the waitress apologized for even as she set the plate down, saying she could take it back. Yes, we want it sent back. It came back actually rare the next time, with an addictive mustard, sesame, soy sauce over angel hair pasta, Chinese cabbage and mushrooms. Another take on fish and pasta is the Yin-Yan Salmon ($24), half the salmon covered in plain sesame seeds, the other in black. This one’s creamy with a soy-lime cream sauce and snow peas.

Neilsen Bros. Market, Carmel-by-the-Sea - For picnic lunches and all-around gourmet selection of meats, produce, mustards, wines, jams, breads, etc… this old-fashioned market is your best stop in town.

And the rest…

Brunch at Clint Eastwood’s Mission Ranch, an idyllic patch of land in Carmel with sheep-filled meadows and ocean in the distance, is a leisurely experience. At just under $30 a person, it’s all-you-can-eat with one glass of champagne or a mimosa, but the “Jazz Brunch” mention is misleading as it’s one guy on a piano plus occasional drum sequencer which you can only hear inside, not on the large patio where everyone is seated. I’d never recommend for the food (basically a glorified hotel buffet), though the omelet station has plenty of good ‘fixins’, plus a range from steak, salmon, soup, pasta, desserts to fruits, pastries, cereals, eggs. It’s 100% about the setting – on a vibrantly blue day, the Renaissance Man and I read Keats to each other over mimosas… now this feels like vacation!

I wish I could tell you Carmel-by-the-Sea’s Casanova was worth eating at because this fetching house (once lived in by Charlie Chaplin’s chef? Random!) is an absolutely charming spot for lunch or glass of wine, whether you sit in the house’s alcoves, patios and inner courtyards or the front garden. If you can, it’s worth walking through just to see the space. But food was lackluster at best… and not cheap. $16 entrees for lunch (salads, sandwiches, pastas) and I could’ve had better at a non-descript cafe in San Francisco. Makes me sad since the place truly feels like Europe, as the owners re-created it in homage to their childhood European home. If only half as much care went into the food.

Supperclub’s Uber Dinner II

Here’s a mini-photo peek from photos I took a Supperclub’s crazy, memorable Uber Dinner II with Jamie Lauren (Top Chef, Absinthe) and Jennie Lorenzo (Fifth Floor) as guest chefs preparing a four course meal paired with a Supperclub show. Read Top Tastes for favorite taste of the night or my Bay Guardian “Appetite” summary of the evening. Though guest chefs haven’t been announced yet, the next Uber Dinner III is September 14.

“Everday Drinking” – KINGSLEY AMIS

Kingsley Amis, the late, great British author (who was knighted in 1990, just a few years before his death) was more than an amateur imbiber. He describes himself as “having the reputation of being one of the great drinkers, if not one of the great drunks, of our time.” What stands out most, I think, is not only his impressive knowledge and opinionated perspective, but especially his rapier wit (yes, I said rapier!) His clever take on drink (wine, beer, spirits) is quite the entertaining read, my friends.

Everyday Drinking is a compilation of three out-of-print books, published between 1971 and 1984, each different in format. “How’s Your Glass?” (the third) was maybe the least interesting to me as a long set of quiz questions on various alcohols (with answers, of course). It’s a good way to learn facts, gleaning from Amis’ knowledge, but it gets tedious and is occasionally out-of-date.

The second, “Everyday Drinking“, is a collection of newspaper columns he wrote on the subject of drinking, randomly placed, including a description of “the atrocity of the Pina Colada” (he’s a Scotch man): “Just the thing for a little 95-IQ female… to suck at while her escort plunges grunting at the fruit machine. Mind you, he’ll be no ornament to his sex either, quite likely clutching a lager and lime – an exit application from the human race if ever there was one.” Harsh. Hilarious. True.

My favorite is the first book, “Kingsley Amis On Drink“, a lively collection of essays on subjects from the difficulty of serving proper wine to guests compared to the ease of serving beer (“First Thoughts on Wine“), to fully utilizing your wine merchant’s knowledge… note that if the merchant recommends you buy something that won’t be good to drink in many years time, Sir Amis tells you to “Hit your wine merchant across the mouth.”

His cures for a hangover, and the difference between P.H. (the actual physical hangover) and M.H. (the metaphysical, emotional hangover), are nothing short of hysterical. He summarizes it best addressing ‘young readers’: “They are mostly strangers to the M.H. But they will grin or jeer at their peril. Let them rest assured that, as they grow older, the M.H. will more and more come to fill the gap left by their progressively less severe P.H.”

This is the kind of ride you’re in for. Literature lovers (and wordsmiths) among you will find this their kind of drinking book, as I do. Less factual, more cheeky commentary and wordplay, though sadly, the fun is slightly marred by knowing Amis’ pleasurable drinking earlier in life turned into drunkenness and ill health at the end of his life.

His recommends for reading or music during a hangover are particularly clever: “…try any slow Miles Davis track. It will suggest to you that, however gloomy life may be, it cannot possibly be as gloomy as Davis makes it out to be”!?

The “Mean Sod’s Guide” is a delightful essay on how to “screw” your guests (offering things you don’t have that they won’t want, serving cheap liquor but telling stories of its great expense, et. al.), or of pitting husband and wife guests against each other so that as they leave your place, the husband will “disparage your hospitality”, the wife “saying you were very sweet and thoughtful and he [her husband] is just a frustrated drunk.”

I’ve learned new terms from Amis I’d love to employ in my vocabulary, like his uproarious term for the unwanted guest, a persnickety person of snobbery, the one you try to please, but never can: old Shagbag (not that I know anyone like this – wink, wink – but the term is so colorful, it begs to be used).

So, old Shagbag, stir your next cocktail (Amis is quite against shaking unless their is an egg, despite the cool James Bond factor) and enjoy an essay from this book as you imbibe.