Cocktails in Joe's of Westlake's bar; this photo: Daniel Stumpf

Top Tastes is my usual run-down of tastes over the past two weeks. Rather than a list of all-time favorites (another thing altogether), it’s highlights since my last newsletter, often from new openings. Many don’t make the cut, being a revisit written about before or simply not as stand-out as dishes mentioned.

SAVORY – SEAFOOD

Calamares & Pimientos de Padron a la Plancha at Contigo

•  For me, dinner at Contigo is a welcoming, comforting experience. Not only is the food of high quality, transporting me to Spain, but the Spanish and Portuguese wines are gorgeous, and staff knowledgeable. In the ever-changing menu, keeping up with the seasons and fresh availability, it’s hard to choose a favorite dish. Last week, it could have been any one of them, including Piquillo Peppers ($9) stuffed with oxtail, pine nuts, raisins, calaspara rice; or ever tasty Catalan-style flatbreads, like the Coca with zucchini, caramelized onions, super-sweet tomatoes, basil, black olives – I added anchovies ($14 + $3 for anchovies); even simple bread covered in garden fresh tomatoes: Pa Amb Tomaquet ($4). I’d recommend them all, especially Calamares & Pimientos de Padron a la Plancha ($8), tender grilled calamari meats with green peppers and aioli to dip. So satisfying.

"Surf & Turf" at Seasons

•  In my anniversary dinner at the Four Seasons Seasons’ restaurant, the five course Tastes of Fall menu ($80) offered an array of beauties from Australian Hiramasa Sashimi to Hudson Valley Foie Gras. Sitting next to massive, picturesque windows with a striking view over Market Street, my favorite course was “Surf & Turf”: butter poached lobster claws on celery root puree for the “surf”, the “turf” being crispy fried veal sweetbreads on a pink pearl apple puree. From the a la carte menu, a juicy cast-iron roasted Rib Eye ($39) with fatty house bacon, caramelized pearl onions and Yukon gold potatoes pleases but I crave the Popcorn Bisque ($13), a creamy broth with delicate Maine lobster flan in the center and a drizzle of basil oil.

SAVORY – MEAT

Martinis at Joe's of Westlake

•  Though I will surely miss (and watch out for) chef Jason Fox, formerly of Bar Tartine, Chris Kronner (of Good Evening Thursday and Slow Club), is now at Bar Tartine’s Exec Chef helm and his menu is chock-full of goodness. When it comes to beef, I moaned over the Braised Beef Rib ($24), falling off the bone over caponata and rocket salad… until I tasted sinfully buttery, rare Filet of Beef & Marrow Bone ($28). Wow.

•  Joe’s of Westlake Spaghetti Dinner ($11.95) with Meat Sauce and extra-garlicky Garlic Bread (1/4 loaf $3.95; 1/2 a loaf $5.35) is about as old school as it gets. Take the Rat Pack circa 1970′s, add in delightfully crusty bar and bartenders, stellar jukebox (from George Jones to Dean Martin), with strong cocktails mostly under $5, then toss in older clientele from sports fans to decked-out Vegas-types. And this is Daly City… via Reno or old world Vegas. Sitting at the dining room counter for a hearty plate of classic spaghetti takes me back to my Jersey days. On either side of me, I make friends with sweethearts of elderly gentleman, regulars who know and love food. We talk old radio programs, music, and SF through the decades. Not every dish works and the side ’80′s dining room puts me off (glaring fluorescent lighting plus masses of noisy, large families – shudder!) But for a simple pasta or steak & veggies… and truly heartwarming  company… there’s nothing like it. I hope it lasts forever.

•  Nob Hill Grille is not going to change your life but on those rare weekend mornings atop Nob Hill, it’s my brunch spot of choice: friendly, cozy, small (i.e. unfortunate waits for a table), grilling up generously-portioned breakfasts. The last two times I’ve gone, I still find Breakfast Sliders ($9) the highlight: three mini brioche buns with Italian sausage patties, American cheese, scrambled eggs and chipotle aioli.

Foie Gras at Seasons

SAVORY – VEGETARIAN

•  After a few visits to Castro’s new Chilango, I’m not as enthused as I hoped to be, especially at $10-12 a plate for what is done at least as well as in a number of  Mission hole-in-the-walls (the huarache, for example).  But a Chile Relleno does me right and service is sweet if distractedly slow.

SWEET

•  Saratoga Chocolates, from, yes, Saratoga, set up shop in the Castro in the former Joseph Schmidt chocolate shop. Friendly staff offer truffle samples and like at most chocolatiers, some truffles are better than others (around $1.50-2 each). Chile Spiced is a fine version of chile and dark chocolate, while the too subtle Grapefruit Honey needed more flavor. Just right Caramel Cinnamon tantalized with a strong burst of cinnamon and silky caramel.

•  Bar Tartine must be mentioned again for a Roasted Banana Parfait ($8) with crispy graham crumble in hot buttered rum and brown sugar. A brilliant spin on bananas foster…

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Recchiuti’s Taste Project:
BEER & CHOCOLATE
with Michael Recchiuti and Dave McLean

Though renowned artisan chocolatier, Recchiuti, just ended their fabulous tasting series, pairing chocolate with everything from spirits to mushrooms to bread, there will be more ahead so I urge you to sign up on their email list to be notified when they do. I went to my first ‘class’, Beer and Chocolate, not sure what to expect: a tasting, discussion, both?

I entered a intimate, candlelit room in the Recchiuti chocolate factory/headquarters in Dogpatch, where Michael Recchiuti himself, and Dave McLean, brewmaster and owner of Magnolia Pub & Brewery and the Alembic, led us through the two hour class. It certainly was educational, with time to converse directly with these two experts. We were lucky to have a face-to-face tour and demo from Michael, watching him make chocolate truffles, serving them to us fresh out of the molds, a caramel truffle in particular exploding with tender flavor.

Then, the tasting menu: beer in its various stages before and after fermentation, chocolate pairings, creative bites, dishes and rare creations from Michael and Dave just for this class. Myself and the Renaissance Man, my husband, Daniel Stumpf, took a few photos from our time. For aficionados, it’s well worth a $55 class fee for the education and rare tastings.

MALT, a tasting of 3 heirloom malts (malted barely is reminiscent of grape nuts) & an incredible chocolate disc with smoky barley (I tasted a hint of burnt marshmallow in the 64% dark chocolate)

Wort Soda (beer pre-fermentation or hops) with malt foam cube garnish

Michael Recchiuti making truffles, then serving to us straight from the molds - melt in your mouth!

Chocolate making at Recchiuti's factory

Magnolia's Dark Star Mild beer (burnt coffee notes) w/ Recchiuti's Dark Chocolate Ice Cream

Recchiuti's candlelit "classroom"; Michael's films of Magnolia Brewery shown the wall

From Dave McLean's "secret stash" at home, a 2007 Imperial Stout - a rare treat! Paired with Michael's Chocolate Stout Tort w/ Kulchwort ganache and Japanese-style Stout Gelee

Magnolia Beer Flight paired w/ Recchiuti chocolates: (L) Blue Bell Bitter w/ Candied Orange Peel - mulled, spiced notes; (C) India Pale Ale w/ Star Anise/Pink Peppercorn truffle; (R) Brown Ale w/ Burnt Caramel truffle

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This issue’s Top Tastes in DRINK

Wort Soda at Recchuiti's Beer & Chocolate Class; this photo: Daniel Stumpf

WINE

• Contigo is a fine source for experimenting with Spanish and Portuguese wines, which the staff know well. Though a crisp, white Bodegas As Laxas from Rias Baixas ($9 glass; $23 carafe; $42 bottle) certainly paired well with my meal, the one I’d hunt down is recently added Vina Valoria Crianza, a 2004 white from Rioja (10 glass; $25 carafe; $48 bottle). Dry, with hints of honey, it startles with a mustard finish.

COCKTAILS

Ellie Mae & Zona Rosa at Eve Lounge

•  Yes, I may be mentioning Bourbon & Branch for the umpteenth time but their specials are so often winners, like Indian Summer (since we’re in ours): Rittenhouse Rye, orgeat, egg white, lemon, Angostura bitters, house-made cherry-based sherry, zest of lime.

•  The club scene is not mine by a long stretch, but I had to stop in to brand new Eve at happy hour to try a cocktail menu put together by 15 Romolo’s Bon Vivants consulting service.  I didn’t mind pin-up paintings and “Cat on a Hot Tin Roof” playing on a double-sided screen. Though I didn’t leave with one stand-out favorite among drinks I tried ($10; $2 off at happy hour), it’s a consistently fine menu, and for club-goers, a classy step up. There’s surprisingly tropical Zona Rosa: Gran Centario Roseangel tequila with guava, lime, pink peppercorn and a splash of rose water. Ellie Mae is happy mix of rye whiskey and Georgia peach, accented by ginger syrup, lemon, peach bitters, and my favorite Bundaberg ginger beer.

•  Sierra Zimei at Four Seasons’ Seasons Bar is one of our city’s great mixologists and I pretty much trust any drink she makes. Though I’ve long appreciated the absinthe/champagne combo in a classic Death in the Afternoon, Sierra’s take, Passion & ‘Pagne ($14), contains fresh-squeezed, potent passion fruit puree and absinthe smoothly mixed with punch of crisp champagne in a generous wine glass. Wondrously balanced, it creeps up on you… seductively so.

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Brand new Ironside's striking interior

Top Tastes is my usual run-down of tastes over the past two weeks. Rather than a list of all-time favorites (another thing altogether), it’s highlights since my last newsletter, often from new openings. Many don’t make the cut, being a revisit written about before or simply not as stand-out as dishes mentioned.

SAVORY – MEAT

•  B Star has done me right since inception, creating what I feel is some of the best creative Asian fusion in town. Though I’ve long adored Salmon Veggie Pot Pie ($10) with green curry in a flaky puff pastry, last week I tried a brunch item that’s a lot more delicious than it sounds: Chicken Croquette Hash ($10), ground chicken and fluffy mashed potatoes formed into a cake, lightly fried in panko bread crumbs, with a perfect over-easy egg on top. Lemon zest in the mash adds a little zing. All-in-all, a beaut.

Juicy Lucy at Fish & Farm

•  Alright… you got me.  Fish & Farm’s Juicy Lucy Burger ($13) has fast gained a reputation thanks to 7×7 giving it top burger honors. Despite any skepticism on my part, I have to say it’s worthy. New chef, Chad Newton, knows his burgers. Juicy, on an oily, toasted Acme bun, it’s made of Niman Ranch beef, with grilled onions, white cheddar, house pickles and a secret sauce that won’t quit.  I found my other dinner dishes a bit lackluster, but their American Box lunch is a delightfully tasty respite where you practically have the restaurant to yourself or can take it to go (and the Juicy Lucy is just $8!) Double tacos, line-caught tuna sandwiches… it’s a fine lunch.

•  A $12 sandwich is pricey for lunch, especially to go… but in South Beach’s brand new Ironside (love the lofty brick, wood, retro artwork space), the Cubano, a sandwich I particularly love, is mighty fine: tender, slow roasted pork, country ham, gruyere, mayo, accented by crispy bits of pickle.

Poc Chuc's Taco de Cochinita Pibil with fresh Watermelon Fresca

•  Though needing more than just pickled onions to cut the generous pile of tender meat (I wished for avocado, sour cream, even tomato), Poc Chuc’s slow-braised pork shoulder Taco de Cochinita Pibil ($2.75) is another of the Mission district’s many stellar tacos. Pair it with a giant glass of fresh Watermelon Fresca ($2.50) and then it’s nap time.

•  I must be on a burger kick. Completely unlike Fish & Farm, Bullshead never left the ’70′s. A West Portal institution, the dingy wood paneling, carpet and salad bar may look depressing but the burgers surely aren’t. Their buffalo burgers rock. I dig a medium Buffalo Burger with blue cheese. It’s $10 for 1/3 lb., $11.25 for a 1/2 lb. (or $8.50 and $9.50 for the same sizes with beef or ground turkey), plenty big enough to share.

SAVORY – VEGETARIAN

Fang's Cabbage Apple Salad

•  Despite what anyone says, I’ve been a fan of House of Nanking since the ’90′s, its strong flavors and sauces creating a unique Chinese taste experience, touristy though it may be (and I can’t argue with Nanking Sesame Chicken). Peter Fang’s food may not be traditional, but it’s good. With his sleeker (but similarly priced) second outpost in SoMa, Fang, there’s now a way to eat this goodness minus a trip to Chinatown. Lunch specials make it an affordable work-day stop (I like it for take-out), with flavorful salads like Fang’s Cabbage Apple Salad ($6.95; $8.95 at dinner): purple cabbage, apple, scallions, sweet grilled red peppers, and a tangy, vinegar-rich sesame dressing. At dinner, I savored tender Anise Pork with crispy cooked apples ($14.95) and Pork Dumplings ($8.95 for 6). Service is brusque, but what do you expect from the Nanking crew?

Liba Taco Truck

•  Though the mix and match menu initially looks confusing, it’s pretty simple: get a falafel bowl, platter or sandwich and choose sides. Liba taco truck parks near my work a couple days a week in Potrero (in Emeryville other weekdays). I got a Falafel Bowl with crispy falafel atop lettuce, hummus, tomato/mint/cucumber salad, spiced carrot ribbons and rosemary peanuts. A healthy, refreshing lunch for under $10.

•  I don’t make it to Hayward much but at least there’s Oakland’s Temescal Farmers’ Market on Sundays (9am-1pm) to pick up Pot Pie Paradise. Flaky little pies you can microwave or bake at home, dessert versions are soothing, but I especially enjoy Sweet Potato Thai Curry Vegan ($5 for 5″, $18 for 10″) with soy and garbanzo beans, carrots, peanuts, curry, coconut milk, cilantro, onion, garlic, ginger and, of course, sweet potato.

SWEET

•  Mission Minis are not only a guilt-free size, but after a glut of cupcakes over the years, enough to dilute any fan’s affections, they’re some of the better I’ve had. Not sickly sugary (Magnolia Bakery, I’m talking to you) or weakly flavored, MMs satisfy sweet cravings without overdoing it… unless you have 10 of them, which is tempting. Though I like the Aztec Chocolate, so far it’s a tie between Cinnamon Horchata or Banana with a banana chip on top. Check their website for where to buy.

B Star's surprisingly addictive Chicken Croquette Hash

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CHICAGO

“Hog butcher for the world,
Tool maker, stacker of wheat,
Player with railroads and the nation’s freight handler;
Stormy, husky, brawling,
City of big shoulders.”
- Carl Sandburg, “Chicago,” 1916

Back to Chicago, where my husband once briefly lived, my first visit in nearly a decade. Certainly much has changed, yet the city remains much as I remember it: gritty, even at its “prettiest”; middle America in big city, New York-reminiscent form. No it doesn’t woo me or haunt my dreams, like San Francisco or New Orleans do, nor secure my eternal loyalty like New York, but it’s the one true city in the middle, as far as I’m concerned, and here I eat heartily well, surrounded by locals who are welcoming, rough around the edges, genuine.

Neighborhood by neighborhood, in a multi-part series, we’ll cover some of my favorite haunts during my recent stay.

SOUTH LOOP

The first neighborhood I took up residence in, the trek via bus up Michigan Ave before even hitting the El is a long one. I felt somehow far from the city center, central as it is. It was the best locale, however, from which to see the new wing of the Art Institute or classical concerts (Beethoven’s “Ode to Joy” with full choir) in Millennium Park.

Pimientos de Padron at Mercat a la Planxa

• Pretty truffles and cool gelato on a hot Summer day made Canaday le Chocolatier my favorite little sweet stop in South Loop. Gelatos are simple and candy-sweet, rather than tasting of the freshest of fruit as Italy, or even SF & NY’s best gelatos do. But I found their Pomegranate and Blood Orange tartly playful.

•  A Chicago institution, Manny’s Deli serves one kick-ass Corned Beef Sandwich ($10.95).

•  Mercat a la Planxa is a spacious, chic hotel restaurant right on Michigan Ave, one of the few less touristy restaurants on that stretch. With friendly service, though lackluster sangrias (both I tried were disappointing), the food is authentic and deftly prepared. Catalan-inspired cuisine includes plenty of charcuterie, quesos, tapas, and larger plates. A traditional Pimientos de Padron ($5) satisfied, the fried green peppers perky with salt. A Serrano Ham & Fig Salad ($8) is ultra-fresh spinach greens with salty ham, spiced almonds and sherry vinaigrette. 

CHINATOWN

A feast at Lao Sze Schuan

•    Lao Sze Chuan came highly recommended as the one place worth going out of the way for in Chinatown. Ideal for a group, we were seated around a large table upstairs in the bustling restaurant, tucked out of the way in this desolate, spread-out part of Chinatown. For not a lot of cash, six of us were fed with plenty of food left over. Being Szechuan cuisine, it was a full blast of spice and heat, especially the famous “Chef’s Special” Dry Chili Chicken, loaded with blazing peppers. That was my favorite dish, along with a mild, but expertly fried Salt & Pepper Squid.  I can’t say I was much excited beyond those two but none of it did me wrong.  Many say it’s hands down the best Szechuan spot in Chicago, along with its sister restaurants.

GREEKTOWN

Cappuccino with a view at Artopolis

•   Though the staff at Artopolis Bakery & Cafe seem bored out of their minds, it’s a charming spot for European-quality cappuccinos and an Artopita ($7.95) for breakfast or lunch. The stuffed phyllo disk comes warm on your plate from a cafeteria line. Sit preferably upstairs overlooking the street for a quiet respite. I tried the ham and kasseri cheese version: warm, gooey, filling. This is Greektown’s most beloved bakery and a welcome cafe in which to linger (if you don’t mind cheesy Euro dance music playing).

Concerts in Millennium Park

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