Top Tastes, rather than a list of all-time favorites (another thing altogether), are among the best eats since my last newsletter, often from new openings. Many don’t make the cut, being a revisit previously written about or simply not as stand-out as dishes mentioned.

MID-RANGE RESTAURANTS

• Marlowe took over now defunct Aussie restaurant, South, a couple weeks ago and I,  for one, love the distressed wood tables and clean black, white and wood elegance in the new space. It has a NY, neighborhood bistro vibe. Bummed when Cortez closed, I was delighted to see the Exec Chef here is Cortez‘ Jennifer Puccio.

My one minor issue upon an initial lunch visit was how long it took for food to arrive (opening kinks?) Lunch took over an hour and a half, which on a day off I love, but not ideal on a work day. That being said, service is gracious, welcoming, and the food utterly satisfying.

Humble in appearance, a warm open-faced Deviled Egg Sandwich ($9; lunch only) is one of the best egg sandwiches ever with a layer of crisp, meaty bacon, aged provolone, pickled chilis, horseradish aioli on the side (perfect for fries). Marlowe Burger ($12 lunch; $13 dinner) is already getting raves and you can see why just by looking at it on almost everyone else’s table. Next time.

Smoky Cauliflower Gratin ($7), cheesy with baked, aged provolone, is sinful – you’d never know you’re eating veggies. Ditto for Brussels Sprout Chips ($6), melting sprout leaves crisped with Meyer lemon and sea salt. There’s classic steak frites and roasted chicken entrees, plus playful Spiced Prawns ($12), served plump and whole (yes, with eyes on ‘em), with a boozy, Bloody Mary-inspired cocktail sauce. Espresso ($3) is properly done. I licked my spoon clean on Upside Down Apple Crisp in a mason jar ($6). It’s basically bourbon ice cream layered with crazy-good brown butter caramel, apples and crunchy crisp. Yum.

The menu is short, simple and seemingly typical American comfort food. But somehow it’s a step above: filling, heartwarming. This could become one of those great neighborhood restaurants worth crossing town for. P.S. there’s  a bar menu and fine wine selection… my lunch was brightened by a glass of ‘ 08 Birichino Malvasia Bianca from Monterey ($8) and an ‘09 Barricas Torrontes from Mendoza ($7).

• Ristobar - Though the charcuterie and cheese craze played out years ago, I actually found that to be Ristobar’s stand-out. For $10 each, choose two cheeses, two meats (out of twenty). I assumed there’d be a bite or two (which is how many restaurants do it), but instead, got a generous tasting platter with honey and fig to pair. I ate beloved Culatello (Parma’s most prized cut of pork, from Salumeria Biellese) and San Daniele’s Proscuitto, along with a pungent but balanced Piemonte Blu Moncenisio, and tangy, semi-firm Salva Cremasco from Lombardia.

Italian wines by 3/6/10/16 oz. pours, make it blissfully easy to try as many as you like, including famed Brunello di Montalcino or Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (having been to both these Tuscan towns, I’m much more a fan of wine from the latter). Explore regions like Marche with an ‘07 Sartarelli Verdiccio Classico, or Alto Adige with an ‘07 A. Lageder Chardonnay. There’s highly-praised Italian beers by the bottle (up to $27). But be prepared for noise as you sup: the former Emporio Rulli space is chic but cacophonous, as many Marina restaurants seem to be.

Pastas, like Gnocchi in gorgonzola dolce latte sauce or Crawfish Cavatelli (both $15) in yellow pepper puree/crustacean sauce, fell short of the best in town, though decent, especially the latter. I enjoyed flatbread-like Vesta Pizza ($12), a large sheet covered in ricotta, fennel sausage, speck, arugula, tomato sauce. Osso Buco ($18), veggies and salads work well, if not particularly memorable, except for a Sicilian-style Caponata ($4) with raisin sweetness.

• Brand new Mission seafooder, Ebb & Flow, is a friendly place in the seemingly cursed space on Guerrero at 18th that’s been at least four different restaurants that I can recall. Upon my opening week visit, sweet staff and natural lighting from giant windows hold promise. Fish & Chips and Oyster Po Boys are the type of fare on offer here. Crab Dip ($11) is mostly crab meat with a little cream, artichoke, leek and Parmesan. An uber-fresh Crab Sandwich ($14) on Acme bread lacked much flavor – a little lemon would have helped? I enjoyed less common items, like rich Tuna Casserole ($14) with pasta shells, leek, cauliflower, celery, fresh Spring peas, yogurt bechamel, topped with fried onions and pea sprouts. Tasted like Mom’s home-cooking.

CHEAP EATS

• Tee Off Bar & Grill - A $20 Kangaroo Burger is pretty much outrageous for a dive bar when even upscale restaurants usually charge no more than $15-16 for Kobe burgers. BUT, this is kangaroo and that’s a harder to acquire meat. I prefer Kobe or even buffalo in a burger, but this is adventurous fun with fried onions and kiwi relish on top. Make sure you call ahead, as they only serve it on weekends and until supplies run out. Paired with fried asparagus, spicy Bloody Marys and sun on the back patio, it’s a happy weekend respite.

• Shanghai Dumpling King has been a longtime favorite for Xiao Long Bao and dim sum (grungy as it is and with lackluster dishes outside of dim sum). Recently, I had light Egg Puffs dusted in sugar. I wish I knew the proper Chinese name (anyone?) A server walked by with them and I snagged some, warm out of the fryer, eggy, delicious: the flavor of a Chinese egg custard in a pastry puff ball.

• Thanks to Patty Unterman’s always intrepid finds of under-the-radar Asian food, I went to Hakka, focusing on Hakka cuisine of Southeast China, impressed by the freshness of their Hakka dishes and the pride with which the staff served them. Fried strips of Pumpkin in Salted Egg ($6.95) are just a good time, and it’s easy to finish your greens when they’re crisp Chinese Broccoli sauteed in rice wine ($6.95). My waiter explained that fatty Pork Belly ($8.95) over preserved cabbage and mushrooms is a traditional Hakka dish that hasn’t changed in decades. Get through a layer of skin and fat to tender, anise-scented pork.

NAPA EXCURSIONS

FARMSTEAD, St. Helena

St. Helena’s new kid on the block, Farmstead, is part of delightful Long Meadow Ranch, a welcome package of winery (tasty $42 2005 Cab), poultry farm (eggs for sale!), herb garden, grass-fed beef ranch, and olive press (LOVE their grassy, gorgeous select extra virgin olive oil, $20 – I prefer it to their $49 Prato Lungo oil).

Walking up to the modern, converted barn that is Farmstead, I’m taken in by the fireplace, tractors and chairs on the outdoor patio – this will be amazing on Summer nights. I can picture BBQ, beers and whole hog roasts now! Then succumb to the glow inside from funky light fixtures, cavernous ceilings and leather booths.

Their beef is, in a word, exemplary. It works well enough in a steak, but my money goes towards the Cheeseburger ($14). On a house potato bun, it’s lathered with their insanely addictive mustard (horseradish proclaims itself), California cheddar and arugula. I could eat this baby weekly. It’s that good.

The other stand-out is “Potted” Pig ($14) on toasts, with that brilliant horseradish mustard. Tender, shredded pig is packed into a mason jar with a layer of lard on top. The effect is playful, piggy goodness you can’t put down. I prefer this to similar styles of dishes in NYC’s famous Spotted Pig.

Chef Sheamus Feeley has Southern hospitality down – from Arkansas, you can taste his soulful pedigree in the food, though it’s certainly California fresh and utterly local. Almost  everything, from breads to greens, is local, if not directly from their own farm.

In its initial opening weeks, service and vibe are convivial, and even if all dishes aren’t memorable, they’re good. This is a welcome addition to Napa Valley and I envision its successful beefy future shining brightly.

REDD, Yountville

I’ve long been dying to visit Redd. Having heard often about the fabulous food but sterile dining room, I was actually digging the architecture, skylights, wood ceiling and patio, even if the main dining room overdoses on boring white. I was surprised, however, to find service a bit lackluster and seemingly blase, though our table was enthusiastic.

The meal was certainly tasty from start to finish, but not befitting the high accolades, often just behind Cyrus, which I  find far superior. But Redd has the welcome option to order a la carte, along with a $75 tasting menu.

Cocktails are solid, if a little on the sweet side, though the Waldorf ($11) doesn’t overdo it: apple-infused Eagle Rare Bourbon with Berentzen apple liqueur, lemon, Fee Bros Bitters. I had to politely refuse my waiter’s continued push of the day’s special cocktail with vodka and Acai juice (no, thanks). The wine selection goes well beyond local wines.

Yellowfin Tuna & Hamachi Tartare ($13 lunch; $15 dinner) is not the best tartare around but is playful with the crunch of crispy fried rice, avocado and chili oil. Hamachi Sashimi (same price as tartare) stands out with fresh edamame beans and lime ginger sauce.

Known for their Caramelized Diver Scallops ($14), I’ve had many a fine scallop over the years: this one ranks, though I wouldn’t go out of my way for it. I adore cauliflower puree: a fine underpinning to scallops, almonds and balsamic reduction. Roasted Organic Chicken ($20 lunch; $26 dinner) is plump and juicy with braised chanterelles, green garlic potatoes and liver toast. Duck Confit ($21) is crispy, with mixed savoy cabbage, spaetzle and foie gras meatballs, if you weren’t satisfied with the luscious fat quotient already.

The biggest stand-out was a dish I’ve had hundreds of times, in many variations: Pork Belly ($13).  Trends be damned, I can never get enough! I always love it and Redd’s version delivers. With apple puree, burdock and soy caramel sauce, it’s like remarkable, savory dessert.

Speaking of dessert, they make a mean Roasted Apple Tart ($10), creamy with cinnamon toast ice cream and milk jam. Don’t ask for Rhubarb Pain Perdu (my first choice) if you have your heart set on it, as they just don’t have it today.

IMBIBER in LOS ANGELES

• Downtown LA’s The Varnish has only been open for one year, helmed by the gracious Eric Alperin. From NYC, he opened Varnish with Sasha Petraske of NY’s famed Milk & Honey (where Eric used to work) and Cedd Moses of LA’s 213 bars (including Seven Grand). A NY pedigree shows in the muted classiness of the place. Certainly speakeasy style, you get there via delightful Cole’s French Dip back door. It feels like the 1920’s with an upright piano, lots of wood, mellow lighting and jazz.

This is the LA bar with my ideal environment: grown up, refined but relaxed, everyone is seated, conversation is easy, music is excellent and at the right volume. Of course, none of that would matter if service and drinks weren’t superb, and they are. At $12 each, there’s Hot Buttered Rum (with aged rum), cozy on a winter’s night. Holland Razor Blade takes Genever far with a kick of lemon and cayenne. El Diablo is a refreshing mix of tequila, ginger, lime, cassis, seltzer. But the highlight was being able to get Milk & Honey’s Penicillin: smoky with two kinds of scotch, accented by lemon, fresh ginger, honey syrup… plus a decadent candied ginger garnish. I’d go for bartender’s choice with their perfect ice spheres and elegantly balanced drinks. The Varnish will show you how it’s done.

•  Scoot right next door to the grand door with lion knocker and enter The Association, with a decidedly different vibe. While chandeliers shimmer alluringly, on a Friday night, music is loud, everyone is standing around, and decor is chic Vegas, circa 1970’s. Conversation is not as easy, but drinks are top notch, and the staff some of the most delightful I’ve met at any bar. Owner McCray Miller is warm, hospitable and his spirit infuses the staff. Fred Warner was our bartender par excellence, showcasing his skills in classics utilizing every spirit from pisco to scotch.  Fred makes a brilliant Blood and Sand – maybe the best version I’ve had. He whips up a mighty fine Pisco Sour, too. Ditto on his Singapore Sling, variation on the Last Word (using blanco tequila instead of gin), as well as a refreshing Paloma. If I lived close by, this is the place I’d love to stop in early or on weeknights, when the vibe is mellow, and let them make me what they will.

•  I could sing the praises of Jose Andres’ The Bazaar’s exciting molecular cocktails (and food). For now, I claim it to be among the best in LA, saving details for my upcoming review of The Bazaar.

•  VODKA rears its head for a comeback. Myself included, there’s been a rejection amongst many fine cocktailians and bartenders to steer far from vodka… understandably so, given its abuses and often lack of distinction. Sure, I love a classic vodka martini (though usually prefer gin), but there aren’t many I’d sip straight, especially compared to other spirits. As I begin to see small batch, higher quality vodkas behind my favorite bars, being made by distillers I respect (plus articles like Imbibe’s current cover treatment), I’m starting to find more I can work with.

It was a pleasure to further my vodka palate in Beverly Hills at Nic’s one-of-a-kind Vodbox. A frozen room (28 degrees), it’s available by appointment and for small groups (flights $21-30 per person). Our host wore an evening gown but couldn’t have been more relaxed, appealing to tastes of each person in our group, from the novice who wants flavored vodkas to bourbon/scotch drinkers like myself.

Hilarity ensued when we were given fur coats and hats to don – leopard coats for the ladies. After laughing at each other in giant, puffy hats, we were grateful for the furry warmth in a freezing, refined, orange and white room. We tasted vodkas from Poland, Iceland, Russia, Vietnam, covering rice, wheat, rye and potato grains. Thanks to our knowledgeable host, who led us through varying taste profiles, we discerned nuances and dramatically unique profiles of each. From Rekya’s “green” vodka of Iceland (with notes of jalapeno and lemon), Zubrowka Bison Grass vodka from Poland, to Jewel of Russia’s striking, hand-painted ultra-vodkas, I found plenty to relish here.

We didn’t eat at Nic’s except to dive into tasty, baked oysters ($13), with spinach, walnuts, garlic. I sampled an array of martinis, some a little fruity for my tastes, others with nice herbaceous notes. Kudos for What A Nice Pear You Have, a martini of Grey Goose Poire Vodka, fresh pear juice and shaved Parmesan on top! They also win points for warm hospitality… and a Dean Martin shrine.

Left disappointed:

•  I actually recommend The Edison, a big player in LA’s classic cocktail scene, because it’s a stunner of an underground movie set. The Renaissance Man likened it to Disneyland, however, and coupled with a sceney, sometimes obnoxious crowd, it’s almost ruined. But go at least once to check out the subterranean space, a mad scientists’ elegant cocktail lab with creepy but mesmerizing, turn-of-the-century (1900, that is) black and white shorts playing on the walls, velvet couches and leather chairs strewn throughout (though good luck sitting anywhere unless you reserve ahead). I know Marcos Tello is a skilled, creative bartender, I didn’t see him – our bartender was just trying to keep up with the crowds so no time to engage. Though I asked him to make me whatever he wanted with bourbon or scotch, he made something straight off the menu. I loved the concept of an Anejo Old Fashioned ($13 each cocktail), but it was heavy on the agave nectar. Fairing better was The Edison, Woodford Reserve bourbon, pear cognac and a hint of honey.

•  I wanted to love Roger Room, I really did. Less than a year old and hidden behind a faux tarot card storefront is a cozy, low-ceilinged bar reminding me of classic New York, with wood, murals, red booths and a ‘good old boys’ clubby feel. Bartenders are friendly, even if the crowd swings too heavily towards giggling ‘girlfriends’ sporting mini-skirts. Looking at the drink menu on hippie, rainbow-colored paper, I got scared. Vodka played heavily on the list – I’d heard this was a classic cocktail joint? Maybe if I’d stuck to basics, it would have been ok. But I heard the Pican Millionaire ($12) was one to get: Torani Amer, Punt e Mes, Luksusowa Vodka, pomegranate syrup, black pepper. It sounded intriguing but tasted like cough syrup… and, yes, was too sweet.

•  Tar Pit was a priority: not only had it just opened a couple months prior, but NY’s cocktail queen, Audrey Saunders, was behind the menu. Literally days after my visit, she was suddenly no longer affiliated with the establishment. Hmmm.

With muted music and soothing elegance in a 40’s inspired room, I expected this would become a favorite as I sat at the refined bar. There was a little snobbery at the door, but I put that behind me… until the bartenders displayed the same. Low marks for unnecessary aloofness.

Cocktails ($12-17) are strikingly presented. Watching the bartender deftly make our drinks, I noticed perfect ice, ingredients of high quality, fresh herbs lining the bar. But he disappeared after serving one round and never returned, though I saw him hanging out in the kitchen. All three drinks I tried suffered from being too sweet. I was shocked. Audrey’s supposedly about balance!

Though the bartender was correct in saying a beautiful Liquorice Whiskey Smash was more herbal than licorice, he failed to mention it was sickeningly sweet. I couldn’t even drink half. It was served proper julep style in a julep cup with crushed ice but even diluted by ice it retained  its syrupy flaws. A Lemon-Thyme Daiquiri was bright with white rum, muddled lemon and thyme, lime juice and lime syrup. Would have been lovely if it weren’t… you guessed it… sugary. I actually asked for the Agave Bravo (mezcal, reposado, agave syrup, Angostura bitters, grapefruit twist) to be less sweet since I’d heard beforehand that this particular drink was (who knew that applied to all?) This was the only drink out of three with equilibrium.

IMBIBER IN NAPA & SONOMA

•  Viader is among the finer wines in Napa… and the place to go if you can’t stand California wines and remain married to old world, French sensibilities. Tucked up in the hills of Deer Park (between St. Helena and Calistoga), it’s a wonderland of mossy oaks and stunning vistas. Last month, founder, Delia Viader’s, daughter took my small group of friends on a private tour of the grounds and caves, while we sipped their catalog of wines. Delia story, launching the winery back in the ’80’s as a single mom with a passion for French-style wines, is truly inspiring, as it was to hear it directly from her daughter.

Though by appointment only, it’s a destination wine lovers would do well to plan towards. The $35 per person tasting fee is waived if you purchase 6 bottles or more. If you don’t, the experience is still well worth it.

Driving up a winding road, enter the drive, then walk an enchanting path of mossy oaks, arriving at a lovely stone house with airy main room facing a patio overlooking the Napa Valley with literally breathtaking views.

Then there’s the wines: a reasonable ($40), winery-exclusive Dare Tempranillo has berry aromatics but spice and cardamom notes. Balanced with a long finish, it’s the best value on the list for the money and was one of my favorites.

At the high end, it’s a pleasure to sip $120 “V”, a Petite Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon blend showcasing the former varietal. Comparing signature Viader ($100): both the 2006 and 2005 versions are refined blends of Cab Franc and Cab Sauvignon. The ‘05 has subtleties of currant, tobacco, mocha, and refined tannins. The ‘06 hits more floral, lavender notes with hints of cigar, spice and bittersweet chocolate.

•  Robert Sinskey is nestled in idyllic rolling hillsides off Silverado Trail, our private food and wine tasting set in their caves. The staff is fun, engaging, and could not have made the five of us feel more welcome. We started with a silky, bright ‘08 Pinot Blanc. Seared skirt steak in olive butter paired ideally with an ‘07 Pinot Noir, subtle with cherries and winter spice, and with a ‘98 Cabernet Sauvignon redolent of earthy berries. My tops was ‘05 Marcien, a Carneros proprietary red with notes of cassis, tobacco, plum, smoke.

•  It’s been a couple years since I’ve done Sonoma’s Barrel Tasting March weekends, which only continue to grow in size (now over 100 wineries participating) and crowds. Though free bites and barrel tastings inside caves and wineries is a great time with friends (this year was no exception), a reasonable $20 price tag brings out a slew of young, soon-to-be alcoholics partying it up with as much as they can drink. Choose wineries wisely, however, and miss some of these crowds, finding instead a mellow party, chilling to good tunes in the cool of the caves.

Since barrel wines are not yet mature, you have to envision how they might taste, potentially investing in futures. I prefer moving on to final product from the bottle. Mixed in with a slew of “ok” wines, a couple highlights included Ridge Lytton Springs, where I paid a little extra to sample a $175 bottle of award-winning, earthy Monte Bello. Though I wasn’t connecting with any of their reds, Stonestreet’s (not participating in barrel tastings) ‘07 Red Point Chardonnay (a hefty $55 a bottle) tasted of Summer with creamy peach. I enjoyed a number of Mauritson’s wines: Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and especially their Syrah.

Top Tastes, rather than a list of all-time favorites (another thing altogether), is highlights of the best things I’ve been eating since my last newsletter, often from new openings. Many don’t make the cut, being a revisit previously written about or simply not as stand-out as dishes mentioned.

CHEESE

• At an unbelievable Highland Park 1968 Vintage Tasting on 2/17 (see Imbiber), Will Edwards of SF Cheese School, led us through a cheese pairing with five HP scotches. It didn’t always sound like it would work, but it did. All five cheeses were thrilling, from a gorgeous, balanced Abbaye de Belloc, produced by Benedictine monks, to the brilliant butterscotch of Saenkanter Gouda. Who could choose favorites among such uniquely different cheeses? I couldn’t believe the grainy, melt-in-your-mouth intensity of a goat’s milk Bleu du Bocage… surprisingly, it did not overpower HP’s 25-year scotch. Isle of Mull Cheddar (from Scotland, naturally), is a memorable ivory-colored cheddar made from happy cows who’ve been ingesting spent whiskey grain. If this is an example of the wide-reaching range of cheeses Wil can lead you through, I’d sign up for one of his classes at the Cheese School now.

CHEAP EATS

• There’s been a recent resurgence of interest in humble little Mexican panaderia, King’s Bakery, when 7×7 added their Coconut Buns to Big Eat SF 2010. Sprinkled with sesame seeds, the slightly sour/savory roll is stuffed with sticky, sweet coconut. Bliss for 50 cents.

• A Middle Eastern dinner at brand new Tuba on the corner of Guerrero and 22nd is a soothing experience. They may not have a liquor license yet and there are a few service kinks (well-intentioned, as it is), but the space is warm, red, with bejeweled pillows, mellow music, and enchanting window-side seating. Food is fresh and appealing, stronger than many a similar Middle Eastern/Mediterranean spot. Love Esma ($6), a spread shaped in two round dollops, loaded with tomato and red pepper paste, walnuts, ideal with the warm, sesame-dusted bread you’re given at the outset. Icli Kofte ($7) is among the better versions of  ground beef in bulgur wheat (puff pastry-like) I’ve had, improved by a light sour cream-like sauce underneath.

• The Middle Eastern neighborhood restaurant trend continues with brand new Yemeni’s in Polk Gulch/Tendernob area. Half the menu isn’t yet available, it seems, but the owner and staff are sweethearts, and the food (baba ghannouj, warm from the oven Yemen bread, and a strip steak/hummus dish) were all fresh, flavorful and cheap. You can fill up for under $10.

MID-RANGE RESTAURANTS

• Under the same striking horse sculpture made of car, tractor and motorcycle parts, there’s a new chef at Urban Tavern, a conveniently located restaurant that could be a ‘go to’ when in Union Square. I enjoyed dinner there back when it first opened but a subsequent visit to the bar hinted at a decline in food and cocktail quality. Enter new exec chef, Colin Duggan, and my latest visit. While good times can be had at the bar with Hobbs Bacon “Tato Tots” ($5) or Warm Gruyere Cheese Puffs ($5) and their fine Maple Bourbon Sour ($11), I was pleasantly surprised to find that my decent starters were clearly outshone by the entrees.

I’m still reflecting on the fall-apart, meaty tenderness of Braised Beef Short Ribs ($22), a generous dish cooked in red wine, fresh horseradish grated on top with sides of potato puree, green beans, carrots. Paired with a glass of ‘06 Obsidian Ridge Cab ($13), it was a velvety mix of richness and a perfect Winter meal. Nearly as exciting was the Fish Du Jour ($22), an artistic presentation of Petrale Sole over a leek/garlic/white wine puree, jauntily accented by bits of chorizo sausage, artichokes and potatoes. I have zero complaints about the ‘PB Cup’ ($9) for dessert, with a crispy sea salt brittle and caramel gelato. Five hours of free parking (call them for instructions) only seals the deal… I’m eager to try the new lunch menu next: maybe a dip sandwich (prime rib, lamb or turkey) or a Spicy Caggiano Beer Sausage?

• A weekday getaway lunch on Belden Lane brings the usual, welcome European feel. Trademark is the newer kid on the alley, taking a more old-school American approach with a steak and oyster menu – and another place to ingest Joanna’s amazing Meetinghouse Biscuits. I’ve never been blown away by a Belden Alley restaurant, but there’s a certain comfort when I sit amongst business lunch-ers, European expats, and sweet older gentleman with Fedoras eating beef brisket solo. I couldn’t help but befriend a side of Buttermilk Vidalia Onion Rings ($5). A mix of of endive, grapes, walnuts, gorgonzola, and spicy maple vinaigrette in Celery Root & Fuji Apple Salad ($10), bordered on too sweet but for the occasional balance brought by the gorgonzola (more of that would have helped nicely). Dungeness Crab Three Cheese Melt ($16) is a pricey sandwich, but it’s a  filling one, loaded with warm crab meat, melted Colby cheddar, Pt. Reyes Blue and pepper jack, served with coleslaw and fries. Finish off with espresso and listen to the old guys next to you rant about the weather and politics.