May
15
2010

May 15, 2010

“One by one the nights between our separated cities are joined to the night that unites us.” – Pablo Neruda

Driving around SF in a 1961 Silver Cloud (see "On the Town")

As this hits your inbox, I’ve just arrived in New York for the Manhattan Cocktail Classic and eight days of food, drink and dear friends. Back in my beloved Big Apple, the city that first awakened me to the world when, at age 14, my family moved to New Jersey, it’s always my second home, feeling all too easy to slip into life wandering its neighborhoods. More NY coming soon.

Top Tastes focuses solely on “cheap eats” with Venezuelan snacks, towering bagels, authentic Bahn Mi, Calcutta chai, and more of Ike’s incomparable sandwiches (hurry before they’re – temporarily – gone?) Imbiber explores champagne at Bubble Lounge (take note of their soon-to-launch Elizabeth Falkner dessert menu), returns to Heaven’s Dog, hits three wine events covering Austria, South Africa, California.

Tiki time at Smuggler's Cove

Visit the yet-to-open Comstock Saloon, Fifth Floor and Smuggler’s Cove, all for a private Pernod Absinthe Crawl On the Town in 1961 Silver Cloud Rolls Royces! The Latest is a meal at brand new Inner Sunset brewery, Social Kitchen. Around the Bay heads South for authentic Italian pasta in San Mateo.

I’d love your feedback on any spots visited from my site. Please tell your friends and have them sign up for the newsletter. As your personal concierge who tells it to you like a good friend would, I also create personalized itineraries: trips, meals, explorations (under “Services“).

Let me guide you to the perfect spot!

Virginia

Follow me on Twitter: http://twitter.com/ThePerfectSpot

Here’s recent entries in my SF Bay Guardian column, Appetite:
April restaurant openings worth checking out
Sneak Peek inside Comstock Saloon
3 Blanco Tequilas for Cinco de Mayo Margaritas
3 Culinary Gifts for Mom

**Unless otherwise noted, all photos by Virginia Miller**

Written by Virginia in: Intro Letter |
May
15
2010

Top Tastes

Top Tastes, rather than a list of all-time favorites (another thing altogether), are among the best eats since my last newsletter, often from new openings. Many don’t make the cut, being a revisit previously written about or simply not as stand-out as dishes mentioned.

CHEAP EATS

Red Door's beloved French Toast

Red Door Cafe – I was bummed when this quirky breakfast spot closed down (making way for the nice but underwhelming Olea) on California Street. Thankfully, it has re-surfaced on Bush Street (at Franklin), in a smaller, but still funky space, with playful service and towering bagels. At around $11.99, they’re pricey bagels, but they come in presentations you haven’t seen the likes of and with salad. Their French Toast Josephine ($9.50, add $1.75 with Caramelized Banana) remains their best breakfast dish. I’d go with the banana.

Salmon Bagel, Red Door-style

Pica Pica – At a pre-opening party for this Napa favorite debuting its first SF location, we enjoyed small bites of menu items and pours of Sangria, fresh Passion Fruit juice and a fabulous, frothy Coconut Milk Lime drink. Female-owned and launched by Adriana Lopez Vermut, love for her native Venezuelan cuisine shows in the care with which she modernizes it with uber-fresh ingredients and dipping sauces.

Favorite tastes include a glorified grilled cheese ode, the  “Maize-Wich” ($7.99): sweet cornbread with ham and cheese. I particularly like the savory/sweet combo of Pabellon Cachapa ($8.99): skirt steak, black beans and cheese topped with sweet plantains on a sweet corn pancake/cachapa.

Pica Pica tasting of arepas, cachapa, maize-wich

There are traditional Arepas ($7.99), available in a myriad of toppings or fillings, plus Empanadas ($3.99), soups ($3.99-$5.75), salad ($3.99), sides of plantains and salsas. I appreciate the clean, bright interior functioning as high quality Venezuelan fast food on the go or to eat in.

Ike’s Place – Sure, this sandwich mecca is old news, but I’ve been going for years and despite the now sick crowds which have led to lawsuits from neighbors, this tiny hole-in-the-wall still shells out some of the best sandwiches ever, even if the only time to get them with a mere 15 minute wait is a Tuesday morning at 10:45am.

The "welcoming" Sing Sing sign

Recently, I ordered a Mark Cuban ($8.98), not pressed like my beloved Cubano, its inspiration, filled with ham, pickles, jalapenos, Jack cheese and Ike’s Godfather Sauce mixed with their now legendary Dirty Sauce. Keep it decadent with a Manage-a-Trois ($11.11): Halal chicken breast, honey, honey mustard, BBQ sauce, Pepper Jack, Swiss, Smoked Gouda. I love it all, but one of my best remains Paul Reubens ($9.99): sliced corned beef, Swiss cheese, poppy seed coleslaw, French dressing.  With news of Ike’s impending closure and relocation, it’s getting scary to think we may be without it for awhile… if only Ike’s customers were more respectful of neighbors (noise, leaving trash around, etc…), the lawsuits maybe would not have happened?

Sing Sing Sandwich Shop – It couldn’t be sketchier, this Tenderloin/Little Saigon dump with graffiti-ed signage and dingy interior. Vietnamese music videos pep it up. I felt immediately transported back to my month in Vietnam as a slew of older Vietnamese gentleman played Keno-like games in the back, while younger guys chatted me up at the counter.

The new 331 Cortland Marketplace

They only make one thing: Bahn Mi ($3). And it’s only one kind of Bahn Mi. Classic pork pate with usual carrots, cilantro, jalapeno, mayo, in crunchy French bread. You’re braving the elements for this one, but it’s a deal and authentic bahn mi experience.

Wholesome Bakery – This former farmers market regular now has a permanent home, along with other treats I crave, like ICHI Sushi and El Porteno Empanadas, in Bernal Heights’ brand new, little 331 Cortland Marketplace. Their regular chai is done Bombay-style, which is the more common. On a recent Sunday, they made a  Calcutta Iced Chai ($3.75), heavy on the cardamom and quite refreshing.

Written by Virginia in: Top Tastes |
May
15
2010

Imbiber

A fine spread with bubbly at Bubble Lounge

CHAMPAGNE

Henri Billiot at Bubble Lounge

I hadn’t been to Bubble Lounge in awhile, recalling former pleasant weeknights sipping bubbly while live jazz played, but not as into sceney crowds there for DJ sets on weekends. I returned to meet with Wine Director, Sabawun Kakar, who’s passion for bubbly shows in his thoughtful selections and sabrage skills.

Food is surprisingly tasty, and welcome to settle that bubbly buzz. A “Korhogo 126″ Mini-Cheeseburger is cooked with brie, Swiss, American cheeses ($11). Favorite sandwich: Brie/Smoked Duck Breast/Fig Jam ($14). Finishing with strawberries and a mini-dark chocolate fondue (with cinnamon notes) was an obviously ideal pairing.

I was delighted to discover that in June, they will launch a new dessert menu from none other than Elizabeth Falkner of Citizen Cake (call beforehand – currently, it looks like mid-June as a launch of the menu). I’m returning for desserts like Lemon Verrine: lemon curd, yogurt, blueberry sauce, maple crunch, champagne granita. Or Upside-Down Cherry Cheesecake with Amarena cherries and buttery graham crust.

Here were Kakar’s lovely selections. The prices reflect Bubble Lounge’s by-the-glass costs:

COCKTAILS

Reflected in the mirror at Bubble Lounge

Heaven’s Dog – I always leave happy here with exquisite drinks from Charles H. Baker’s Gentleman’s Companion of 1930’s cocktail beauties. For perfected balance with rum, try Will P. Taylor’s Hotel Nacional Special ($10), a Havana classic with Barbancourt 8 year Rhum, Small Hands Foods pineapple gum syrup, apricot brandy, lime and Angostura bitters. Bright and sweet enough, yet never too much. Giving bartender free reign with a “Freedom from Choice” and bourbon as the chosen spirit, I was served a gorgeous Whiskey Smash with lemon, mint, simple syrup and hand cut ice that barely melted throughout the time I lingered with friends.

WINES

5/3 AUSTRIA UNCORKED at Fort Mason’s Officers Club – Another of those radiant, only-in-SF days enveloped by pristine blue Bay and sky, I sipped Austrian wines in the intimate Officers Club at Fort Mason during a leisurely trade afternoon. Fairly unschooled on Austrian wines, this event was a pleasure, with more high quality tastes than not. Due to weather calamities, recent years yielded small quantity but high quality in Austrian grapes. The range is well beyond the Rieslings or Gruner Veltliners one might expect. I found myself particularly taken with Zweigelt and Blaufrankisch red varieties, loving an array of refreshing whites and the food-friendly nature of most.

Juris Gruner Veltliner

  • Loved the story behind Martin Arndorfer, a 27-year old winemaker who only makes around 10,000 bottles a year of all his exquisite wines – each a pleasure, from a spicy, acidic 2006 Gruner Veltliner Strasser Weinburg to a floral, mineral ‘05 Riesling Die Leidenschaft (meaning “the passion”), with hints of spice and fruit
  • JURIS – family-owned and operated winery for generations, I met the winemaker for these hand-harvested grapes; highlight was a complex ‘07 Zweigelt
  • Another delightful line is Jurtschitsch-Sonnhof, particularly a crisp, spicy ‘07 Schenkenbichl Gruner Veltliner and a smoky, berry ‘06 Reserve Reid Tanzer Zweigelt
  • Rosenhof – appreciated a refreshing, just bottled 2009 ORION Eiswein (ice wine)
  • Heidi Schrock – using traditional methods to make her dessert wines that no one else in the country does, these are unique; I took to an ‘ 07 Ruster Ausbruch – On the Wings of the Dawn, which manages to be both sweet and acidic, or a 2006 Shrock & Kracher Greiner Welschriesling (a white grape not related to the Riesling grape) that is fermented dry, is complex and to me tastes surprisingly of tea
  • Erich Sattler – another pleasing Zweigelt, the ‘07 Reserve is dense, herbal, plum-like

5/6 SOUTH AFRICA WINES at THE BOX

  • Iona Chardonnay

    Iona – Iona’s 2009 Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc ($18) are both stunners for the price from a mountain plateau east of Cape Town. The Sauvignon Blanc showcases Old and New World with ripe, crisp fruit, and a mineral dry finish. The Chardonnay is creamy, nutty and balanced with a clean finish. Both these stood out – my favorite whites of the event. Iona is served at Gary Danko and should be on its way to K&L soon. $18

  • Stellekaya 2005 Shiraz – I love the story behind this winery run by Ntsiki Biyela, South Africa’s first black female winemaker (see a recent CNN video). The best part is her Shiraz is a true stand-out: full-bodied, lush, with pepper and ripe berry notes. $30
  • Diemersfontein Pinotage – I sipped an ‘06 & ‘08 side by side, while gracious winery owner, David Sonnenberg, explained the popularity of their flagship ‘06 wine, the more refined ’sister’ of the two, while the ‘08 is the rocker sis with playful edge and cult following. Despite the negative reputation of pinotage grapes,  both were unusual, lovely and reasonably priced ($25 for ‘06, $20 for ‘08), but I took to the cult version with spicy berry and coffee notes.
  • Villieria Estate – From the Stellenbosch region, I savored Villeria’s fruity, slightly woody 2008 Chenin Blanc ($14) and a vibrant 2006 Sauvignon Blanc ($21).
  • Hamilton Russell 2008 Chardonnay – acidic but full, nutty, touch of fruit, gorgeous, marrying Old and New World in Burgundian style. $22

Vineyard 7 & 8 "7"

5/3 BARREL TASTING of CABERNET at Bently Reserve – One Cab blended into another at the trade/media afternoon in the Bently Reserve. I preferred to try bottled versions vs. the barrel samples,  but really just came away with two stand-outs (besides Viader, who I’m already a fan of):

  • Vineyard 7 & 8’s 2007 “7″ is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, hand-picked, aged in new French oak showcasing the terroir of Napa’s Spring Mountain with mineral berries and rich tannins. I especially liked their 9, also 100% Cab, hand-picked, with hints creme de cassis, berry and smooth tannins.
  • Carter Cellars stood apart with balanced cabs and Old World sensibilities, especially the 2007 Coliseum Block: floral, berry and tannin-rich.
Written by Virginia in: Imbiber | Tags: ,
May
15
2010

On the Town

In the front seat of a 1961 Silver Cloud Rolls Royce

5/4 – PERNOD ABSINTHE CRAWL

Turn-of-the-Century at Comstock Saloon

So this one of those special media events it could get annoying to hear about if you couldn’t attend yourself, except that it was at three places I highly recommend in a rare Absinthe-themed crawl…

Pernod Absinthe, the original absinthe since 1805, hosted an intimate group of writers for an Absinthe Crawl at three worthy locations: the yet to open (scheduled for May 20) Comstock Saloon in North Beach for four classic cocktails, Fifth Floor for three-course dinner with cocktail pairings, ending the night at Smuggler’s Cove for yet three more cocktails… all featuring Pernod Absinthe.

Victorian elegance at Comstock

Needless to say, I had to taste, leaving behind way more than I wanted to, as expert bartenders showcased Pernod Absinthe in classics (Jeff Hollinger and Jonny Raglin at Comstock, Martin Cate at Smuggler’s) and new creations (Steven Liles at Fifth Floor). Chef Jennie Lorenzo prepared some wonderful food for us at Fifth Floor.

The pinnacle? Being carted around town in a 1961 Silver Cloud Rolls Royce. Three white, one black, they were stunners, with a homey, old-car smell.

As the sky turned dusky blue after sunset, the magic view of San Francisco from behind the dash of the Silver Cloud is an image I will not soon forget. I felt Grace Kelly-ish, dressed up, seeing my city afresh via other time periods. Sheer magic. And an incredible way to experience this, or any, great city.

Jonny Raglin making Sazeracs at Comstock

Turf : gin, dry vermouth, orange bitters, absinthe, maraschino

Comstock's 1916 Ceiling Fans & Upright piano (ragtime tunes to come)

Uncle Buck: port, absinthe, ginger beer

Jeff Hollinger behind the bar at Comstock

Behind the dash of the Rolls Royce

Fifth Floor 1st course: Hamachi & Halibut Crudo w/ agave nectar/lime/olive oil & Arles Sunflower: absinthe/Absolute Mandarin/Lillet/Pineapple Gum Syrup

Fifth Floor 2nd course: Pork Belly w/ white asparagus/English pea pancake & Glowing Heart: Plymouth gin/absinthe/pear eau-di-vie/lemon/orange/ grenadine

My favorite drink & course at Fifth Floor: warm Chocolate/Caramel Fondant w/ popcorn ice cream & The Rising Road: Jameson 12yr Whiskey/absinthe/Plymouth Sloe Gin/lemon/simple syrup/ginger beer

Three tropical absinthe beauties at Smuggler's Cove: Jet Pilot, Dr. Funk & 151 Swizzle (Jet Pilot is a favorite w/ Dark, Puerto Rican & Demerara Rums/Falernum/lime/grapefruit/cinnamon simple syrup/Pernod Absinthe/ Angostura bitters

Written by Virginia in: On the Town | Tags: ,
May
15
2010

The Latest

SOCIAL KITCHEN & BREWERY, Inner Sunset

Sonoma Liberty Duck Breast

Social Kitchen & Brewery – This brand new brewery opened at the beginning of May in the Inner Sunset, adding a welcome member to the small but mighty collection of local brewers. The beers were created by Rich Higgins, President of the SF Brewers Guild and a certified cicerone.

Spicy Buffalo Wings

Watch out: opening week alone brought out what felt like the entire Sunset (a strong sign that this kind of place is highly desired), with people piled out onto the sidewalk waiting for tables (no reservations). A raucous din engulfs the modern, cavernous space. I recommend a table upstairs situated next to the brewing tanks, where the noise is not as overwhelming, and there’s a front row view over the bar.

Beef Short Rib in a puff pastry

And then, the beers ($3-5 a glass, in small and large sizes): a light Social Kolsch sports a bright lemon tart, with grassy, white pepper notes. Upon first visit, I liked the Rapscallion best, a Belgian-style golden ale with ginger, fig, pepper notes, and a bitter finish that mellows, evolving with food. I enjoyed L’Enfant Terrible, Belgian-style dark ale, rich and redolent of chocolate, but dry and crisp, unusual for this style of beer.

Addictive Sweet Potato Tempura

On the food tip, what could have gone better with beer than beer-battered Sweet Potato Tempura ($4 – more like breaded fries), with apple malt vinegar? The vinegar’s tart enlivened comforting sweet potato. Classic Buffalo Chicken Wings ($6) with celery and Maytag blue cheese sauce also took on the beers with success. The refreshing Kolsch is ideal when the intense heat of the Buffalo sauce kicks in. Salads, like the piquant Beer Lover’s Salad ($7) – strawberry, jicama, apple, and greens, in a toasted malt, apple-Kolsch vinaigrette – are small but fresh.

Next time (and once it’s open all day for mellower mid-afternoon lunches), I want to try their burger and rock cod sandwich. But I didn’t need anything else after sharing entrees with friends (out of five on the menu, priced $14-17).

Upstairs at Social Kitchen

Braised Beef Short Rib ($15) is tender under a flaky puff pastry, but came off a bit dry without much jus voer the beef and veggies. Still, the overall effect is heartwarming.  Rocky Jr. Chicken Breast ($15) is juicy in a ‘cannot fail’ caramelized onion/raisin/Altbier sauce, though I could have used a lot more of the delicious Anson Mills cheese grits the chicken sat atop of.  My table’s favorite was Sonoma Liberty Duck Breast ($17): seared, pinkish, over sweet potato duck confit hash (they had me there), with kumquats and blackberries, in L’Enfant Terrible beer jus.

There are kinks to work out and being one who doesn’t believe in long waits and concert-like chaos to eat, I prefer to return during “off” hours… at least for now, while it’s the hottest thing to hit Inner Sunset.

Written by Virginia in: The Latest | Tags:
May
15
2010

Around the Bay

SAN MATEO – Acqua Pazza Ristorante

Zucchini Parmigiana

Despite the suburban setting, the spirit of servers and food is authentically Italian at San Mateo’s Acqua Pazza. Owned by three Rosano brothers (out of nine children!) from Naples, they brought their Mama’s own recipes from Italia, as well as technique learned at Naples’ Scuola Albergheria and Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s Vong in London.

Amalfi Coast photography lines the hallway and the dining room surroundings are clean and crisp in shades of deep blue.

Gnocchi Gorgonzola

The red sauce in a Zucchini Parmigiana starter ($10.95) is textbook delicious from their Mamma Carmela’s recipe. Half Moon Bay zucchini keeps it local, with plenty of meltingly good Buffalo Mozzarella.

Gnocchi Gorgonzola ($14.95) is also their Mamma’s recipe, a fine rendition of what is one of my most beloved Italian dishes. Cherry tomatoes cut the rich, heavy cream sauce, the overall effect happily fattening.

Affogato for dessert

Vitello Milanese ($18.95) is a classic rendition of veal scallopini pounded flat, breaded and in a lemon dressing. A heap of arugula salad atop it added a healthy aspect. Even if it wasn’t the best rendition of the dish I’ve ever had, it worked.

A Bellini ($8.50) was a refreshing sparkling wine starter, though I can’t help but lament the common use of peach nectar instead of fresh peaches, which is less common but tastes significantly better. House wines are affordable ($6.50) and generous, served in a little carafe – easily two glasses worth. Whether Chardonnay, Chianti or Cabernet, they did the trick, as did a straightforward Affogato for dessert.

Hints of Italy live in the streets of San Mateo…

Written by Virginia in: Around the Bay | Tags:
May
01
2010

May 1, 2010

Adventure is not outside man; it is within.” - George Eliot

Truffled Mushroom Pate at Oakland's Encuentro

This April, the Bay Guardian came out with their special food & drink FEAST magazine, and I wrote an article on herbs and produce in cocktails for the issue… plus my usual twice-weekly Guardian column (see articles below). But for the Perfect Spot, there’s plenty more.

Top Tastes include Puerto Rican food for the Haight set, drinking chocolate on the waterfront, Persian comfort food, Chinese dumplings, jicama salad, a curry “pancake”, and spicy/sweet (pizza) pie. Imbiber is sipping White Manhattans, Yucatan Punch, and a range of spirits, liqueurs, Chilean wines.

Spiced Apple Milk Punch at Plymouth Gin dinner

Wandering Traveler heads back to Chicago for the best dogs, bahn mi, Italian ice, chocolate desserts, plus fine cocktails and coffee. Around the Bay highlights vegetarian in Oakland and Mediterranean food near Half Moon Bay. It’s double-duty On the Town, for a special Plymouth Gin dinner at Spruce and a magic weekend at Passport to Dry Creek.

I’d love your feedback on any spots visited from my site. Please tell your friends and have them sign up for the newsletter. As your personal concierge who tells it to you like a good friend would, I also create personalized itineraries: trips, meals, explorations (under “Services“).

Let me guide you to the perfect spot!

Virginia

- Follow me on Twitter: http://twitter.com/ThePerfectSpot

- Here’s recent entries in my SF Bay Guardian online column, Appetite:
3 Food Memoirs with Heart
Anchovies 3 Ways
3 Coffee Table Cocktail Books
3 Unique Wine Events

**Unless otherwise noted, all photos by Virginia Miller**

Written by Virginia in: Intro Letter |

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