Top Tastes, rather than a list of all-time favorites (another thing altogether), are among the best eats since my last newsletter, often from new openings. Many don’t make the cut, being a revisit previously written about or simply not as stand-out as dishes mentioned.

CHEAP EATS

Parada 22 – Finally, there’s a new place around the corner from me (granted, I’ve only lived in the neighborhood a few months but I’ve long kept close tabs on all SF ‘hoods and Upper Haight has never been a restaurant mecca).  The space is bright aquamarine with classic South American jazz over the speakers and a Puerto Rican menu focus with Cuban influences.

An adorable eatery where ordering at the counter and eating at a picnic tables equals a relaxed vibe. Eventually, we’re supposed to be able to order sangria from next door Cha Cha Cha, which will make it a party. In the meantime, they make a fine Cubano ($9), with traditional pork, sweet ham, pickle, Swiss cheese, mustard (though still I prefer a couple others, like Ironside or Chan Chan Cafe Cubano). I’ve been twice but they’ve been out of Pernil Asado (confit-like roasted pork), which is supposed to be one of their best dishes. My favorite after two visits is Camarones a la Criolla ($11.50): sauteed shrimp, tomato and onions in a light pepper cream sauce. They serve near perfect Maduros (plantains – $4.50), along with other heartwarming sides of red or white beans in sofrito-based sauces.

Tacobar – This new corner spot on Fillmore St. suffers from Pac Heights prices for solid but not Mission-worthy Tacos ($4.75 each – add a layer of fried chicharron cheese or chipotle guacamole for an extra $1.65; already included in the vegetarian taco). What I actually preferred was Jicama Ensalada ($4.95) with crisp jicama, grapefruit wedges, dry-roasted peanuts, avocado, cilantro. The nuttiness of the peanuts, bright citrus and creamy avo transformed the jicama into something more. Esquites ($4.85), a cup of white corn cooked with espazote herb, cotija cheese, lime, ancho chile powder, was a twist on classic Elote, but not worth the price. In-house ice creams include Tequila ($3.95), creamy and boozy, while I couldn’t taste the corn in Sweet Corn.

Kingdom of Dumplings – Making one of the better Onion Cakes around, their Xiao Long Bao (Shanghai soup dumplings) may not be the best, but they still satisfy (I prefer South City’s Xiao Long Bao Kitchen). I find their regular dumplings more addictive with varied stuffing options (like fresh corn and pork), also available in amounts of 30 to take home and cook. A perk at this unassuming, tiny eatery is you can fill up for less than $10 a person.

MID-RANGE RESTAURANTS

Lavash – This Persian neighborhood restaurant in the Inner Sunset, makes you feel at home from gracious staff to beckoning fireplace. In earthy tones reminiscent of an Italian villa, it’s a peaceful place to fill up on Aash-e Reshteh (Persian noodle soup) or Sabzi Panir ($6.50): herbs and greens (mint, cilantro, basil) piled next to hunks of feta, grapes, walnuts and lavash bread. Adas Polo ($14.95) is my recommend, though it’s costly for a rice and chicken dish. At least there’s a generous amount of dates, raisins, onions,  basmati rice, lentils, cinnamon, orange peel, saffron and hunks of tender, if not overly flavorful, chicken. The dish comforted – and made for three lunches, not just one. Lavash is pricey compared to other Middle Eastern fare, but as a Persian restaurant, it’s a rarity, with a calming, refined atmosphere.

Morph – Like a sleek, little eatery you’d find in Tokyo or Bangkok, this brand new Richmond restaurant is slick with white chairs, playful lighting, and TV screens flashing the time around the globe. It’s nice to have more hip environs in which to eat Asian food (compared to much of what is in the area), even though portions run tiny, at least on the appetizers I ordered. Superstar server, Lek, made me feel so welcome, explaining the chefs’ marriage of his native Thailand with Japanese influences.

A free shot of Tom Yum soup got its Japanese infusion with miso added to the broth, while a minuscule, but strikingly-presented Spicy Crab Salad ($9) – minus any spice – was mixed with corn and water chestnuts, plus little sesame shells to scoop it up. Apple Salad ($8) was thick, julienned apple with cherry tomato, carrot, red onion and a couple strips of salmon skin to add crunch. Like the Crab Salad, portions were small and the taste pleasant, though not memorable. The stand-out was Yellow Curry Chicken in a Pancake ($11 – or with tofu) with broccoli and a bit of cucumber. Aromatic curry moistens the thick, doughy, delectable crepe/pancake… my one “top taste” from this new spot.

With the sweetest service and unique for the area, I want to find more to love here. Tell me if you do.

Gialina – Pizza at this Glen Park superstar is far from new news, although I’m excited for their second restaurant to open nearer to me on Divisadero this Fall. Returning (hadn’t been in quite awhile) recently on a low-key Monday night (and despite lackluster service), I was reminded all over again why Gialina’s pizzas are awesome: the Amatriciana ($16) was sheer pleasure with an egg on top of sweet tomato sauce, pancetta and pecorino romano, plus a spice kick from chile.

COCKTAILS

• Neyah does it again: when I asked for a cachaca drink at Nopa, he served Sagatiba Cachaca and Dimmi, with their own house Birch Beer Bitters. Birch beer and Dimmi’s herbal/floral/grappa notes melded into a beautifully unique coctail. While you’re there, try White Whiskey as it should be imbibed in a White Manhattan or Buck with your choice of small batch white whiskeys… my Manhattan featured an as of yet unreleased white whiskey from Leopold Bros. that reigned supreme in taste compared to other worthy versions.

• Victoria D’amato-Moran’s (of Cent’Anni Cocktails) drinks often taste like vacation, and none more so than a tropical imbibement she whipped up at a recent private spirits tasting event at Tres Agaves, as well as at Taste of the Nation. Called the Yucatan Punch, it consists of Chinaco Reposado, dreamy Kalani Coconut Liquor (a 100% natural coconut liqueur that puts other coconut liqueurs to shame), D’aristi Xtabentun (a rum/honey/anise liqueur) and pineapple.

SPIRITS

Stand-outs at a recent private spirits tasting at Tres Agaves:

• Blackbull scotch – newer to the market but 30 years aged, a sherry-like whisky, certainly not a favorite but intriguing
• Briottet – surprising, ripe, elegant Creme de Cassis (blackcurrant liqueur), Creme de Banane,  Creme de Mure (blackberry)
• D’Aristi Kalani Coconut Liqueur – 100% natural, fresh, un-toasted coconut – tastes like tropical vacation – may be the best I’ve had of its kind
• English Harbor Rum – toasty, burnt sugar, complex, even at merely 5 years
• Luxardo’s Anice – clean, light anise liqueur, not syrupy or cloying
• Ypioca Cachaca – satiny Brazilian cachaca, from Crystal to smokey Gold or clean Silver

WINES

4/22 – TOAST OF THE TOWN – It was a bit surreal having the entire War Memorial Opera House filled with wine and food, live jazz, and a smartly-dressed crowd. As these tasting events so often do, it grew overly packed once two pleasant VIP hours passed and the general public entered. In those early hours, I enjoyed a number of global sips.

A stand-out was Winemonger’s German Rieslings, particularly a snappy, mineral ’08 Neumayer Zwirch Gruner Veltliner and a fruity/floral ’07 Johann Donabaum Riesling Offenberg Smaragd.

French highlights: 2007 Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is a full-bodied white, alternately dry, fruity and floral.  And on the more affordable end, Mouton Cadet’s 2008 Bordeaux Blanc is a smooth, citrusy Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet blend.

Schramsberg has long been a local favorite for their sparkling wines in particular: it was delightful to sip their 2001 Reserve Brut with cherry notes, and their ’06 J. Davies Cabernet Sauvignon, with Malbec, Merlot and Petit Verdot blended in.

A Cabernet Sauvignon highlight was Louis M. Martini’s velvety, rich 2005 Monte Rosso Vineyard Cab, available during the VIP tasting only.

4/29 – WINES OF CHILE - On a weekday afternoon, I visited a trade tasting held here and in Chicago. It was an education on the range in Chilean wines, which I certainly have been drinking more of in recent years. Similar to Portugal, which I wrote about last issue, the quality to affordability ratio is strong. Many wines I tried were $6-13 a bottle, ideal in these tight times. In tasting (and spitting) dozens, a few that rose to the forefront initially:

• Terra Andina – loved the whole line, from fruity, vanilla (with hint of smoke) Chardonnay, to berry, tobacco, tannin-rich ’08 Carmenere; Andina isn’t readily available but they just got distribution in So. Cal. K&L Wines so should make their way here soon
• Lapostolle – French owners (who also own Grand Marnier) but Chilean-grown; floral/citrus ’09 Casa Sauvignon Blanc may have been my favorite, but appreciated ’07 Cuvee Alexandre Chardonnay and ’08 Carmenere
•  ’06 Carmen Reserva Carmenere/Cabernet Sauvignon – berry, earth, hint of spice
• Aliwen ’09 Sauvignon Blanc – Affordable ($10 or less), crisp, Summery

CHICAGO

Back to Chicago… neighborhood by neighborhood, in a multi-part series, I’ve been covering some haunts during my last visit. Here’s my three previous columns on Chi-town.

NORTHWEST SIDE

Hot Doug’s – So much has already been said about this fairly recent addition to the Chicago dog landscape. I thankfully got to try about 8 dogs here and they were all awesome, though specials change regularly. And they can be wild. Even if you don’t want foie gras on your dog (I did: Foie Gras/Sauternes Duck Sausage is topped with foie gras mousse, truffle aioli, fleur de sel – $9), there’s something for literally everyone. I’m itching to try a new addition to the menu: Jack Daniels/Fennel-smoked Pork Sausage with roasted yellow pepper anchovy sauce, hickory-smoked sweet Swiss cheese – $7.50).  

These are goopy, loaded, all-American dogs, not gourmet chi-chi or even European-style sausages, despite some of the ingredients. Whether going international (Spicy Thai Chicken Sausage with Sriracha mustard/seaweed-sesame salad – $7.50), humorous (The Salma Hayek – $4, a “mighty, mighty, mighty hot!” Andouille Sausage, formerly the Madonna, the Raquel Welch, the Ann-Margret…), or straight-up traditional (The Dog – $1.75), the price is reasonable and Doug himself, a welcoming guy… cheerfully patient with the crowds swarming his place.

Hot Doug’s exemplifies what Chicago’s about. Oh, be aware that by 11:30am, even on a weekday, you’ll already be waiting at least 30 minutes to get in. Good thing I made friends with locals in line. And it’s much further out than you think it’s going to be, nowhere near the El. Take a cab or drive.

LINCOLN SQUARE

Nhu Lan Bakery – One of the better Bahn Mi’s ($3.25) I’ve had comes in house-baked French rolls (it was a pleasure watching them brush butter over rolls as they slid them into the oven) at this non-descript hole-in-the-wall (note: that charming, European-looking structure on their website is NOT their building!) I took the El way north to the Lincoln Square area solely for the purpose of trying these babies which intrigued me from a mention in Time Out Chicago. The area is more suburban-looking, with lawns for everyone. And the area is lucky to have such a tasty, cheap meal.

ANDERSONVILLE

Ann Sather’s famed cinnamon rolls disappoint me, lard-heavy and what exemplified incredible baked goods in the 1970′s but don’t hold up quite as well now… but Andersonville is one of my favorite Chicago ‘hoods. With a Swedish and Norwegian spirit, the family vibe and charming, cafe and shop-lined street recalls my  longtime home of Noe Valley here in SF. But there’s other influences present, characterized in humble spots like Middle East Bakery & Grocery with tasty warm, mini pies (tried Spinach & Feta and Artichoke & Syrian Cheese – $1.75).

•  The Coffee Studio – Probably the best cup of coffee I’ve had in Chicago, it’s Intelligentsia Coffee, which I’ve had prepared well numerous places both in its native Chicago and LA. Coffee Studio does their espressos right with a knock-you-over strength and fine crema on top. It’s housed in a modern, brick-walled storefront next to charming antique and vintage decor shops.

•  m. henry – This place is darling, if there ever was a proper time to use the word: an old country storefront modernized with ‘shabby chic’ white wood pieces and gold, lower-case lettering. The back patio is funky, playful and welcoming. The food, however, despite raves as best brunch spot in many circles, is just alright.

It’s definitely a good brunch but upon ordering uber-popular Blackberry Bliss Cakes ($8.95), I suffered sugar-overload from drenched hotcakes in blackberry syrup and vanilla mascarpone cream. I wanted more of that brown sugar oat crust and less of the sopping mess my bottom pancake turned out to be (as my photo clearly displays). Jorge’s Black Bean Cakes & Eggs ($8.75) are decent, with chipotle sour cream, but not particularly memorable. It’s all about the setting.

BUCKTOWN

I stayed in a friend’s incredible loft right in the heart of trendy, hip Bucktown, a mere two blocks from Violet Hour. Disappointment came with mediocre sushi at Coast, and at Rodan, an Asian bistro/bar that intrigued with a brunch menu offering the likes of beignets with Vietnamese coffee (the first bland, the latter lukewarm, too sweet, inauthentic). What I did love at Rodan, however, was a big screen on the back wall playing jazz/big band “music videos” – nice to chill to Ellington as you’re waking up. Too bad the food doesn’t keep up. Sultan’s Market was an affordable little falafel shop and Middle Eastern deli in the ‘hood. Here were my favorites in Bucktown:

•  Violet Hour – The majority of cocktail raves in the city of Chicago center around this refined but youthful bar (refined but for weekend crowds descending rowdy and obnoxious from Illinois or Wisconsin suburbs). It certainly ushered Chicago into the artisanal, classic cocktail realm, though bars like this exist by the dozens in NY or even SF. I find fewer in Chicago of this caliber.

I visited Violet Hour a couple times (love the name, from a dreamy Bernard DeVoto quote found prominently on their home page). The first was a Friday night with annoyingly long wait, a doorman who let a group of shouting girls who looked about 18 and seemed wasted already, enter ahead of a long line of patient twosomes. Not was I was hoping for at supposedly a classy, cocktailians hang-out. Had it become too popular for its own good? Yes, is one answer to that question. Once we finally entered the graffiti-ed, signless door, we enjoyed our cocktails but Violet Hour fell well below my favorite Chi-town cocktail haven, The Drawing Room.

Thankfully I returned to Violet Hour, for a quiet couple hours at the bar on a Sunday at 5pm. What a difference! I made friends with those sitting next to me, fellow lovers of good food, drink, cities and unexpectedly, literature and poetry. I savored stimulating conversation paired with excellent drink and service… Stephen Cole was a top-notch bartender.

Generally around $12, my first visit entailed Zarzamora, Wild Turkey 101, Fernet, blackberries, house orange bitters, and Hush & Wonder, a refreshing blast of Matusalem rum, lime, Creme de Violette, grapefruit. It was better the second time around when I let the bartender choose. My favorite was a layered  but unfussy mix of Green Chartreuse, Peychaud, Angostura, lemon, lime, pineapple, Velvet Falernum, fresh mint – herbaceous, grassy, fresh. In tribute to my home, he served a Manhattan with Fernet (SF has long been the highest consumer of this bitter Italian digestif), Carpano, Luxardo cherries.

After this visit, I could warrant the fuss more. It’s still not my favorite bar in the country by any means, but I’m glad I got to experience the skill of its bartenders and the savvy of its regulars. Just go early…

•  Hot Chocolate – I went for a decadent three-course dessert one night and fell in love. The place is bustling, youthful, but noisy and crowded for my tastes. All was forgotten when I took my first bite of a Dark Chocolate Souffle Tart ($11) with salted caramel ice cream and pretzels. Salty/sweet perfection. Try to finish a sensual, lush dark Hot Chocolate ($6 – with a hint of caramel, or available in white or milk chocolate, with espresso, Mexican chocolate style or over ice – something for everyone!)

A Stout Caramel Milkshake ($6) with cookies mixed the malty taste of stout with ever-present caramel. Divine decadence all around. You’ll see why owner, Mindy Segal, has won multiple Outstanding Pastry Chef nominations at the James Beard Awards.

•  Miko’s Italian Ice – This guy rocks, sitting alone at a humble little window off a tree-lined street, scooping up ice flavors of the day.

I visited three of Chicago’s popular Italian ice spots this last trip but Miko’s was by far my favorite.

A tart, simple Lemon reminds me of East Coast Italian ices and Banana with Chocolate Chips is just fun.

OAKLAND

Encuentro – One of three owners behind this new-ish Oakland vegetarian is Millennium exec chef, Eric Tucker, long a standard-maker in vegetarian cuisine. The food here is inventive, even if portions are tiny.

Just a few blocks off Jack London Square, the high-ceilinged space is modern and airy, though a little stiff (as is service, in some ways), but the setting highlights bright dishes like Panzanella Salad ($9) with roasted celery root, beets, Gorgonzola, pine nuts, winter greens and crispy bread cubes.

A mere whiff of a bite, there’s two pieces of Bruschetta ($5) available with different toppings. I was won over by Avocado, Cilantro, Black Salt & Olive Oil Bruschetta with an addictive chili jam.

Just added to the menu that day, I found  Maple Mustard-glazed Tempeh “Bacon” Sandwich ($9) surprisingly comforting: warm, on the softest of wheat rolls. For one skeptical of fake “meat” substitutions (there just is no substitution for the real thing), this didn’t taste anything like bacon but was a worthy sandwich nonetheless. Stuffed Prunes ($4), with either goat cheese or macadamia nut pate, were good but didn’t stand out as much as other dishes.

A highlight was a  Rich Truffled Mushroom Pecan Pate ($11). The portion is delicate (read: small), but mini crostinis, grain mustard, sweet prune jam, and caper berries accented a lush pate that was almost smoother and more crowd-pleasing than some meat pates I’ve tasted. This dish showcases what is special about Encuentro that you can’t find elsewhere.

An interesting wine pairing came in the form of a toasty, crisp Irish Monkey Chardonnay ($7 a glass), made in Davis, CA, of all places, with tasting room/offices in Oakland.

SOUTH BAY

Cafe Gibraltar – After a day of poetry and walks on the beach in Pescadero and Half Moon Bay, dinner at Gibraltar is a relaxing finish, idyllically perched with ocean view and breezy, Mediterranean menu. Service is effusive, even if there was an awfully complex pile-up and wait getting a number of tables seated at the front door.

The space and crowd feel a tad suburban, but Moroccan tables on the far wall with pillows, floor seating and separate curtains, add a little intrigue to the dining room. The fresh, pleasing food is served in larger portions than expected, so order accordingly. Even with “light” crudo and seafood dishes, I was stuffed and would have ordered less if I’d known.

Bisque de Crevettes ($9) is a creamy, rich shrimp bisque seasoned with apples, sweet onions, dill and white wine. The shrimp nearly melt with tenderness and dill plays a dominant role. Ahi Tuna Crudo ($15) was generously portioned: a row of delicate, flash-seared ahi with an avocado salad that was too heavily drenched in a lime/ginger/habanero dressing.

Fairing better is Ahtapot Salata ($16), a Turkish beauty of a dish with plump octopus and calamari, grilled, then sautéed with chile, garlic, herbs and lemon, mixed with red onion, tomatoes, watercress. I tasted harissa-like spices and marveled at the meaty heft of the seafood. On the Moroccan front, they cook a lovely Tajin B’il Hut ($24), served in a proper tajine, with large cuts of Hawaiian blue snapper baked in a wood oven with olives, potatoes, baby onions, preserved lemons and tomatoes (I didn’t taste the lemons). Atop couscous and in a chermoula broth, it’s one of the great tajine dishes in the Bay Area.

With a nice wine list offering a number of zippy Portuguese or Alsace whites to accompany all that seafood, I left satisfied, though maybe not as impressed as years of raves about this place led me to believe… at least until I ate warm house bread dipped in sweet, aged basalmic and olive oil.

4/14 – PLYMOUTH GIN DINNER at SPRUCE

Amidst the lush browns of Spruce‘s elegant, candlelit back dining room, I took part in a unique, intimate dinner hosted by Plymouth Gin in honor of  St. George’s Day. A small group of writers enjoyed an hours-long, five-course dinner from skilled Spruce chef, Mark Sullivan, paired with five stunning cocktails from their mixologist, Brandon Clements (plus classic recipes, The Last Word and Bee’s Knees, with passed Gougeres to start). It was a decadent feast highlighting the bounty of the season and the creativity possible with gin, particularly Plymouth’s smooth, accessible gin: a savvy mixologists’ favorite… and one of mine.

I will let my photos tell the story of this one-of-a-kind experience:

PASSPORT to DRY CREEK – April 24-25

It was my first time attending this annual event, Passport to Dry Creek, where locals come out en masse for themed parties, music, wine and food at each participating winery, closed to event attendees (here’s details about the event: $70 one day/$120 for two).

In a brief summary of the weekend, it’s not so much about the wine. Yes, I sipped some good wines, though I prefer to go straight for pours from the bottle/finished product rather than some of the barrel samples available. Whether it was wine, themes, crowds or friendliness of staff, some wineries fared way better than others, but the ones that worked, felt like sheer vacation. And unlike other event weekends I’ve been to in Sonoma County (Russian River barrel-tasting weekends, for one), crowds were well regulated and, for the most part, minus awful drunken party groups that show up at some of those ‘all-you-can-taste’ weekends.

Food was served at every winery (snack/appetizer-sized), in as wide array as some sad-looking fried chicken to a gourmet spread. I’ve long enjoyed Mauritson’s cool wine cave and solid wines, but for this event, none other than chef Charlie Palmer prepared the bites: tender Zinfandel-braised Short Rib Sliders, Panko/Sesame-Crusted Wild Shrimp and Buttered Chocolate Caramel Tartlets.

Another highlight was Truett Hurst, where Santa Rosa’s Zazu restaurant prepared simple but satisfying food: Pulled Pork Sliders (you can see sliders were a common theme) which stood out because of a tart cherry mostarda on top of the pork, and an ideal, warm-day-offering of Zinfandel/Blackberry Sorbet. The real pleasure was lingering on the sunny patio in lounge chairs and couches, as a country-tinged band played everything from Johnny Cash to Van Morrison. Renaissance Man and I wandered across farm fields to say hello to goats obliviously chewing grass, then to the riverside where we sat in Adirondack chairs sipping wine, as cotton-like fluffs lazily floated through the air. See? Vacation.

By far, the food pinnacle, which I’d recommend as a must any year you hit Passport, was at Frick Winery, whose wines were a pleasure (I particularly took to the Viognier, Syrah and Cotes-du-Dry Red Rhone Blend). Dynamic husband/wife chef duo, John Mitzewich and Michele Manfredi (of Food Wishes), have been serving their appetizers at Frick for years (and they’re former colleagues of mine from my California Culinary Academy days). Five gourmet eats, all creative and delicious (each year they carry one recipe on, but otherwise create new ones). If I had to choose favorites, it was Calabrian Crostini covered in Boccalone’s fab Nduja contrasted with candied fennel roo on toast, and especially Rueben Nachos, rye corn chips smothered in pastrami, cave-aged gruyere, savoy cabbage and Russian dressing. Addictive. I could have eaten a whole spread.

Elsewhere, Alderbrook Winery’s giant, roasted pig on a spit was a fun touch. Papietro Perry and Family Wineries didn’t do much for me in the way of wine and are in a cluster of otherwise non-descript tasting rooms off a parking lot, but they were transporting with their live music: Family had the California Cowboys playing beloved country classics from Merle Haggard & the Carter Family (I couldn’t stop singing along), while Papietro had a rousing Zydeco/blues band on an open-air wood porch under ceiling fans. We started dancing, completely transported to the South (minus the humidity).

The pinnacle in atmosphere was Bella Vineyards, with African safari theme, circa 1930′s (they said they usually switch themes every two years for Passport to Dry Creek). There was a Senegalese band, idyllic as we reclined under safari-style tents. In the tasting room and enchanting caves, 1930′s jazz and big band played as we sipped wines in the cool of the lantern-lit caves. Indiana Jones goes wine tasting? At day’s end, drinking a refreshing, stainless steel-fermented Grenache/Syrah Rose ($22 a bottle) in Adirondack chairs on the lawn while hawks circle above, was a piece of heaven.