NEW YORK CITY

My beloved New York. The city that awakened me, at the sensitive age of 14, to cities… and the world. I put my hand over my heart upon first glimpse of the radiance of Manhattan at night from Jersey’s banks, where I lived during high school (and my family lived for years beyond).

Tabla's striking mosaic

When I travel to NY, there’s always dear friends, family, and such an ease and familiarity with city, it’s like second nature roaming the neighborhoods via the metro, spending a lot of time in “the villages”, Flatiron and Lower East Side, endlessly hunting for a proper coffee (thankfully, this is the trip where I finally found some – see this issue’s Imbiber). I always feel at home (my second home, it is), with an ever-growing lifetime of memories all over Manhattan and the other four boroughs.

I’m barely scratching the surface here, so I will write a multi-part series on the one and only Big Apple, as my trip last week for the Manhattan Cocktail Classic was also an eight day extravaganza of food and drink from Tribeca to Flushing. Here are my past NY entries.

BAGELS

Classic NY exemplified in Russ & Daughters

RUSS & DAUGHTERS, LES - The bagel hunt in SF is a struggle, but in bagel mecca, it’s one fattening pleasure after another. Of course, in Manhattan, a bagel & lox will run you $10-12. But, no matter, when it’s perfection, like Russ & Daughters (fourth generation, family-owned for over a century), a Lower East Side Jewish deli that is  quintessential New York. The place is bright, crisply clean, the staff is amicably crusty, and the salmon is cut fresh and succulent before you. Put it on an “everything” bagel with horseradish cream cheese and you have happiness. There’s an array of joys here, such as pickled herring, caviar, and a lovely whitefish salad. While you’re wandering Houston Street, it doesn’t hurt to pick up an Egg Cream Soda ($3.50 – milk, chocolate soda, seltzer) to-go at Katz for a full, classic NY experience.

Ess-A-Bagel

ESS-A-BAGEL, Gramercy- Where Russ & Daughters’ bagel & lox is fresh and crisp, Ess-A-Bagel is hefty and delicious. I like the 70′s wood-paneling with chandeliers and sweet, no-nonsense staff at the out-of-the-way Gramercy location. There I ordered an “everything” bagel with lox again (piled high and generous, by the way), but as most of their cream cheeses were of the sweeter, cinnamon kind, I chose vegetable cream cheese. I pretty much fell in love with this bagel. Seriously. I’ll have another.

BURGERS

Messy Burger Joint goodness

I’ve always found decent burgers in NY… certainly Shake Shack is an easy, cheap favorite, though the lines can kill it. I walked by the original Madison Square Park location a couple times last week and lines were worse than they were years ago when I still waited over 20 minutes for a small burger. There are now five locations so may be less of a wait elsewhere, though who can beat sipping your shake under the idyllic, leafy green of Madison Square?

Comfortably graffiti-ed wall at Burger Joint

BURGER JOINT, West 50′s - On the theme of popular NY burgers with long lines, I’m partial to Burger Joint in the Le Parker Meridian. Though I hate the long waits, I’d rather spend my time there, inching behind the mysterious curtain with neon burger sign in the Meridian hotel lobby, finally reaching the dingy, convivial space where killer burgers fly off the grill all day long. It’s simple: burger, cheeseburger, fries. And you wouldn’t want it any other way.

Zeitzaff's bar

ZAITZEFF, East Village – I was disappointed in my Zaitzeff mishap, as I fell in love with the new East Village storefront (original location in Financial District) of this family-run, gourmet burger restaurant. Billie Holiday sang on a lazy weekday lunch hour in a space reminiscent of a Parisian neighborhood cafe (but serving Kobe burgers). With a dramatic 28 rating for food from Zagat posted on their door, I figured we couldn’t lose. But when asking for my 1/4 lb. Kobe Burger ($10.75) topped with Blue Cheese ($2.75) to come medium rare, I, instead got it well. Cooked to death, the blue cheese was strong and funky, shrouding the meat’s quality. I sent the burger back since there was such a gross difference between what was requested. It came out better, but still overwhelmed by the blue and not remotely worth $15. Go to Burger Joint instead!

INDIAN

Long Island Fluke Tartare

Tabla, Flatiron – Granted, over the years, I have not eaten a lot of Indian in NY, though it is a favored cuisine of mine. I hardly think anyone would call Tabla authentic Indian, but it is creative, “fusion” Indian, which we don’t see enough of in SF. I’ve tried to visit in years past but it always got pushed down my list.

In a cavernous but glowing, modern space right off Madison Square Park, Tabla has $54 per person tasting menus for family style eating. I went a la carte, trying dishes from each section of the menu. Stand-outs include their fluffy, warm Tandoori Breads ($4 or $10-12 stuffed). The naan-like bread comes in a hefty slab; the Rosemary version was particularly aromatic and satisfying.

Crab Cake on Goan Guacamole in Papadum

Unexciting as a Crab Cake sounds, Tabla’s ($16) benefits from Indian spicing, tamarind chutney and tasty Goan guacamole. Long Island Fluke Tartare ($12) was bright with fluke, pineapple, pasilla chilies and toasted shrimp flakes. More interesting is Crispy Artichoke Bhel Puri ($14). Different than other Bhel Puri dishes I’ve had, with their puffed rice crispness, this version is mixed with artichoke, green mango, peanuts, tamarind and mint chutneys. Say “yes” to the crunch and sweet meat of Tapioca-crusted Soft Shell Crabs ($30), served with spring onions and green mango, spiced up by roasted chili curry. Dessert was a delightful Mango Ice Cream Sundae ($9) with brown butter crumble and spiced caramel sauce. Delectable.

BREAKFAST

THE BRESLIN, Flatiron – In the Ace Hotel, I’d recommend going for Stumptown Coffee off the funky, cool lobby of the Ace and peeking into the awesome British-pub-meets-Victorian-era-parlor in this hot spot from Spotted Pig chef, April Bloomfield, a place I’ve liked in years past but find over-hyped (see my 2007 review).

The Breslin's Fried PB & Banana Sandwich

Breakfast was greasy and after a few bites of both dishes, I’d had enough of buttery fried sandwiches with no accompaniments… especially at such high prices.

A Fried Peanut Butter & Banana Sandwich ($11) has occasional hints of vanilla and bourbon, on a crusty (bordering on hard), bagel-sized roll stuffed with melting, warm PB & banana. Their popular Oven-Baked Three Cheese Sandwich ($16) with house-smoked ham (and another $2 with egg) is tasty but doesn’t compare to a Tartine Bakery sandwich at a few dollars less. Better in my estimation to skip this one, though I sure adore that dining room.

MANHATTAN COCKTAIL CLASSIC – May 14-18

Bands on multiple levels... in the entrance of NYPL: jazz, Parisian, gypsy music

Build your own herbal cocktail w/ lime juice and, unfortunately, the base spirit of Veev Acai

I was one of the lucky ones, spending eight days in NY, my old stomping grounds, for the first annual Manhattan Cocktail Classic, highlighting and celebrating the art of the cocktail and its greatest talents. Or so I thought… I won’t gripe too much, though I will say that despite the stunning transformation of the already gorgeous New York Public Library (NYPL) for the Opening Gala, a scene rife with cocktail luminaries like Dale DeGroff, Audrey Saunders, Dave Wondrich, and some of the country’s best bartenders, the crowds were not quite the cocktailians I expected, and some events were far from what was advertised. For example: at the May 17 “contest” at Keen’s, the competition and notable judges had completely wrapped up and left before the listed START time of the event, leaving only a few cocktails to sample and the incomparably cool, old school Keen’s space to stand around in. Nothing short of false advertising. I could have spent the same money ($50 a ticket) with more exciting results at NY’s great bars.

Let’s recap a few of the best and worst moments of the raucous week that was the 1st annual Manhattan Cocktail Classic:

WORST

Wasteland: every available table looked liked this - and that's the most food I saw in 4 hours

1. Starvation – At the Opening Gala, despite spotting Mario Batali, the guy who had supposedly cooked up something special for the night, I never once saw his food. Every other whiff of food was devoured by the time I got near it. In the sweltering heat and humidity inside the NYPL, the one air-conditioned room in the building had a long wait to get in. Once I did, I saw others eating Fatty ‘Cue‘s giant legs of meat. An odd “cocktail party” choice, but hilarious to watch others gnaw on a leg with drink delicately in hand. Again, I never got one. Once I finally got to the last table with food, the line was so long it wasn’t worth it, despite food-less hours endured with sips of multiple drinks (many of the fruity, vodka, soda, flavorless kind)… a bite never came until I hit a diner at 2am.

Outside the NYPL at 9pm, lines snaked down 5th Avenue: the first of many lines of the night

2. Non-Cocktailian Crowds at the Opening Gala – I expected a slew of the country’s and NY’s most hardcore drink fans: the kind that mix Jerry Thomas recipes at home, await Mud Puddle book releases, and value craft and taste above a “scene”. Um, try drunken carousers breaking glasses and leaving trash lying around in the historical NYPL? What about having your photo taken with vodka models? Seriously: you, a bottle of vodka, and sexy models in a brightly lit, LA-style photo shoot. And, yes, there was a long line for this one. Or maybe I’m still just creeped out by the Oompa Loompas or a giant, live Queen Victoria towering over us in the Hendricks’ Gin area (at least there was Charlotte Voisey mixing cocktails below the Queen). I ran into the hardcore, certainly, including many of my SF friends, bartenders and enthusiasts alike. But I was surrounded by the drunken carousers.

A creepy Queen Victoria towering over us

3. Events not as advertised – I’ve already mentioned the misleading representation of the cocktail competition at Keen’s and the drunken, packed-to-the-gills mayhem of the Opening Gala where check-in, getting a drink or even entering a room, meant yet another 20 minute wait. And where were the fine cocktails? Several came from our San Francisco crew who manned a number of tables (negronis!) and truly represented, at Dave Wondrich’s station (though his drink had run out by the time I reached the table – one disappointment after another!), and at the playful Willy Wonka-themed candy counter. But the majority of cocktails were forgettable, watered-down, fruity glasses of blandness… and that’s out of four floors of cocktails.

BEST

One peaceful respite: The Virgin Room

1. Astor Center bar/bartenders from around the country – The Astor Center was ground zero for many of MCC’s daily events, panels and classes. The best part was having bartenders from all over New York and the country cover varying shifts. I met mixologists from St. Louis, LA, San Fran, Boston, and NY bars like Employees Only, Clover Club and Rye House. Not only did these guys whip up some of the better drinks of the entire event, but they were friendly, chatty, engaging, making the Astor Center feel like your favorite watering hole.

2. The Virgin Room at the Opening Gala – What is normally NYPL’s staid, lovely Periodicals Room became The Virgin Room, a detox refuge in the midst of the body-to-body storm of revelers, ego-tripping bodyguards and completely frazzled staff.

Candy dream cocktails at Willy Wonka bar

Coolers were stocked with energy drinks while the latest copies of Interview magazine lined the tables. Never mind that one couldn’t find a bit of water anywhere. At least I could read about Madonna staying sexy in her 50′s via lamplight.

3. Gin Masters – Let’s call this third one a tie between the gracious English class and knowledge of master distillers, Desmond Payne (of Beefeater Gin) and Sean Harrison (of Plymouth Gin), at the English Gin Seminar on May 16 where we did a side-by-side tasting of gins, including their own and the just released (unreleased at the time) Beefeater Summer Gin.

The ultra-cool Stork Club basement

4. The Stork Club – At the Opening Gala, one could catch a welcome respite from the oppressive heat of the rest of the building in the rarely seen NYPL basement, dubbed the Stork Club for the night. Thanks, Diageo, for turning the room into a relaxed but funky party with brassy Budos Band and proper cocktails, including a Bulleit Bourbon Mint Julep and a Mary Pickford made with Zacapa 23 year rum.

TOP DRINKS AT MCC

Don Julio's Delight at Astor Center bar

-  Ted Kilgore of Niche Taste Bar in St. Louis is a gracious and skilled bartender who mixed me one of his Niche standards, a Ruby Derby: bourbon, vermouth, agave nectar, grapefruit and Aperol.

-  Matthew Pomeroy, International Brand Ambassador for Wyborowa SA, took Luksusowa Vodka to some happy places with a Polish Fling: 2 parts potato vodka, 1 part egg white, 1 part lemon juice, fresh cucumber and dill. Now all I need is some caviar and blinis. A runner-up was A Smoky Fall: potato vodka, lime, orange juice, spicy ginger beer, and plum jam (normally he uses fig jam).

Jill DeGroff artwork at the Astor Center

- At the Astor Center, morning imbibement went down better after starting the day with Duque Spanish Brandy in Orange de Crema French-press coffee with Creme de Alba, Creole Shrubb and an orange slice.

Ted Kilgore at Keen's

- I couldn’t be unhappy with an Astor Bar cocktail utilizing Don Julio: Don Julio’s Delight. Anjeo and Bulleit Bourbon were shaken with amaretto, lime, agave nectar and egg white. Refreshing and bright.

- More breakfast-y winners at the Astor Bar from Rye House’s Jim Kearns: a Blood Mary trio including a Tabasco Red Snapper, Chipotle Mary and the best: Habanero Bloody Mary (tomato, lemon, Worcestershire, salt, fresh horseradish, pineapple juice, Annie’s habanero sauce, black pepper, jalapeno-infused Don Julio). Paired well with a delicious Crawfish & Andouille Egg Souffle.

The dramatic backdrop of Keen's animal heads & paintings for the Yellowtail Cocktail Contest

NEW YORK CITY COFFEE

In a world-class city like New York, I’ve always been shocked that a proper coffee, whether it be straight-up cup, a cappuccino or espresso, is in such short order, especially given NY’s Italian influence. From that Italian perspective, coffee is as crucial to daily life as wine. One would not dream of serving Folgers or Sanka (!?), which even local friends have told me they’ve seen being used in fancy espresso machines at fine dining NY restaurants… for $6 a cup. For shame.

RBC's Cappuccino

My hunt in years past was essentially a fruitless effort. When dining at Mario Batali restaurants like Lupa, I’d ask what kind of coffee they used after being burned so many times, and they actually were offended. I’m not quibbling as to why quality coffee is not the general standard here as it is on the West Coast, but more why it’s been nearly non-existent in a city of such size and culinary magnitude, rife with gourmands and Italians? It shouldn’t be this hard. Thankfully, times, they are a changin’… and Brooklyn, no surprise, is at the forefront. I’ll have to save Brooklyn coffee favorites for my next visit.

Now that our own long-time standard, Blue Bottle, made it’s way to Brooklyn a few months ago, and Stumptown opened in the Flatiron District (and is one of Manhattan’s best coffee stops), there’s finally a decent cup to be found. But what about local shops? It is interesting that in roaming Manhattan, visiting eight of the most acclaimed coffee spots, only half were actually great. But four is a success compared to past years when the now-defunct East Village Simon Sips was among the finer cups I’d had in NY, and recommendations to favorites like Grey Dog Coffee and Jack’s yielded welcoming neighborhood cafes but mediocre coffee.

Soho’s La Colombe, a Philadelphia-based (via Seattle) coffee company, is a clean, high-ceilinged space with grainy, modern wood and coffee served in Old World tea sets. The appeal of the shop did not cover up the needlessly snooty staff whose cappuccino not only came in an over-sized cup, but was a LATTE, not a cappuccino: milky as heck. Fail.

Birch Coffee's eclectic exterior

More promising, was an appropriately-sized cappuccino at Ninth Street Espresso (I visited the East Village locale), which claims to be the first specialty coffee house in NY since 2001. The hipster staff were laid back and kind… but somehow there was texture to the drink, and not the cream of an appropriately foamed capp, but more a grainy, thick, slightly off-putting texture. On the right track, but not there.

In alphabetical order, here were the best in preparation and taste out of the eight in my recent explorations. These are the ones most in line with Italian-quality robustness, balanced bitterness, and, when it comes to cappuccinos, proper ratios of milk and espresso with at least decent foam.

ABRACO, East Village – Locals and Bay Area friends alike, have told me since it’s 2007 opening that Abraco is the one single great cup in Manhattan. I’d agree it’s up there. In a postcard-sized East Village shop, the cappuccinos are of the quality and preparation I’m used to. No surprise that one of Abraco’s founding partners and baristas, Jamie McCormick, lived in the Bay Area 10 years working at Oliveto and, you guessed it, Blue Bottle. Partner and chef, Elizabeth Quijada, also has a Bay Area history, where she met McCormick. They make a beautiful cup.

RBC's double espresso

BIRCH COFFEE, Flatiron – This quirky, lovable shop inside the funky, beckoning Gershwin Hotel, has a thrift store feel in the upstairs library, free wi-fi, their own fair trade beans, and most importantly, a lovely espresso and strong coffee.

BLUEBIRD COFFEE SHOP, East Village – Though I knew my old NY coffee stomping grounds, Simon Sips, had closed, I inadvertently wandered back to where it was housed to find it had turned into Bluebird, utilizing the same charming, tiny, brick-walled space filled with locals enjoying cozy conversation over coffee. The espresso borders on too bitter, but overall, they do a fine job, are quite friendly and the shop is a welcome addition using Counter Culture coffee.

RBC COFFEE, Tribeca – I trekked from Midtown to Tribeca on a rainy weekday during rush hour commute to this high-ceilinged shop, replete with a shiny, costly Slayer machine. I feared going out of my way would be a letdown, like so many others have been. Thankfully, it was not. In fact, both their espresso and cappuccino are just what that doctor (or coffee lover) ordered.

RBC and Abraco are now my top two coffee recommends (along with the impeccable Stumptown) in Manhattan.

*** Check out the current June 2010 issue of Vogue magazine for Jeffrey Steingarten’s article on coffee, including a few I’ve mentioned here (I recommend his books, too). I read the article after my trip but enjoyed the focus on actual cups of coffee and tasting profiles vs. espresso and other coffee drinks.