From two notable newcomers to three tried-and-true greats (one just gaining a Michelin star this week), these are five top places to eat, feast and support now — plus one bonus new bar. I’ve vetted, visited or ordered from every restaurant reviewed here:
BETTER THAN EVER
More Than A Steakhouse: Niku Steakhouse, SoMa/Design District
Fresh off their first Michelin star (awarded Sept. 28th) since opening early 2019, Niku Steakhouse is better than ever. As part of Kash Feng and Jackson Yu’s Omakase Restaurant Group, this is A5 Japanese steakhouse decadence, from open flame cooking at a binchotan charcoal grill, to neighboring The Butcher Shop by Niku Steakhouse. But it’s much more, from chef Dustin Falcon’s non-steak dishes (his resume includes best-of-the-bests Lazy Bear and The French Laundry), to an exceptional wine list, to recent addition of head bartender Franco Bilbaeno (formerly head bartender on Angler SF’s opening team). They launched a 5:30–7pm happy hour, so popping in at the bar for a drink and bites is the easy way to do a mini-splurge on this pricey-but-worth-it restaurant.
Do not miss crispy pig ears in chili caramel fish sauce, or American wagyu short rib (“smoked, braised, glazed”), so savory and tender, it induces a sigh with each bite — especially accompanied by sweet-savory brussels sprouts in tomato-ume (Japanese plum) marmalade. Cocktails are elegant and balanced, including a twist on a classic Vesper, Agent “00,” mixing gin, Lillet Blanc, manzanilla sherry and a spritz of absinthe. B.O.C. is irresistible, going down frothy and tropical with Plantation 3 Star rum, embered coconut, pandan and drops of coffee oil. Local wine rarities and older vintages abound, like a Burgundy-worthy 2014 Saxon Brown Rosella Vineyard Chardonnay from one of my favorite wine regions, Santa Lucia Highlands.
// 61 Division Street, www.nikusteakhouse.com
Jazz Supperclub with Quality Eats & Drink: Black Cat, TenderNob
Same owner (Fritz Quattlebaum) but a whole new team, Black Cat reopened in August, the epitome of “better than ever.” A much-needed jazz supperclub in a chic basement (plus upstairs bar), its multi-week residencies are a boon for jazz and music lovers. I was there September 15th for a Maurice “Mobetta” Brown and Free Nationals concert with India Shawn. Same night that crazy second set surprise from one of my girlhood faves, Tony! Toni! Tone!, hit the intimate stage, garnering national press on our unmasked mayor.
The strong musician lineup reflects bringing on Olu Gartin, a GM for 10 years at NYC’s legendary Blue Note Jazz Club. Bar lead Jason Moser came from quality like Villon, Forgery and Ne Timeas Restaurant Group, which shows in subtle but thoughtful cocktails like Cause and Effect, a straightforward yet intriguing hit of Plantation 3 Star rum, overproof rum and Chareau aloe liqueur. Sommelier Eric Forbes came from eight years at the great Foreign Cinema, stepping up the wine list with a blessed grower Champagne focus. Chef Yainiel Negrón was sous chef at deeply-missed, Michelin-starred Commonwealth, upping the game here with so-good shrimp “brandade” croquettes and sofrito-braised pork over smoky Anson Mills polenta.
// 400 Eddy Street, https://blackcatsf.com
A 30+ Year Sushi Classic: Sanraku, TenderNob
Sanraku opened this original SF location in 1989 (with two other locations at SF Metreon and San Jose, but my review is for the OG), which was one of my sushi regulars when I moved here 20 years ago. But with the wealth of Michelin-starred, Tokyo-worthy sushi in this town — not to mention the endless stellar food of all stripes — I hadn’t been back in over a decade. So a recent revisit was a pleasant surprise. In the humble space, sincere service, and a few sweet sake picks (including local Sequoia Sake) confirm this is a classic that has stayed the course. From miso cod to soba noodles or tempura, it’s traditional Japanese food done well. Sushi offerings, from platters to nigiri, are fresh and silky, with much of the fish coming from Japan. On another note, I was saddened to hear of the death of chef Tetsuro Ozawa early this summer, who came from Japan as Sanraku lead sushi chef in 2009. RIP.
// 704 Sutter Street, www.sanraku.com/sanraku-on-sutter
NOTABLE NEWCOMERS
Fiorella With Retractable Roof & Cocktail Benefits: Fiorella Inner Sunset
Opened late August 2021 from Fiorella Restaurant Group, Fiorella Sunset is the third Fiorella, winning big taking over the historic Park Chow space — which means the retractable rooftop is back. With chef de cuisine Scott Schneider and bar director Candice Jae on board (Fiorella’s only location with a hard liquor license), the multi-roomed restaurant offers different elements than the other two.
Martini-esque Fumo e Fiori is one of my top new cocktails anywhere, showing off the vegetal earthiness of Por Siempre Sotol, subtly contrasted with Salers gentian bitter and olive & salt’n’pepper bitters, rounded out by Cocchi Americano. Fiorella’s singular clam pie is here, recalling Connecticut-style pizza, as are other group faves. But nearly half the menu is unique to 9th Ave., like king salmon crudo, silky with cucumbers, radish, dill and lemon, or mafaldine pasta, rich with octopus, peperoncino, marjoram and toasted breadcrumbs. It all pairs beautifully with wines like a Graci Etna Rosato from Sicily, Cleto Chiarli Lambrusco Grasparossa or local Almanac Beer Co.’s fab Strawberry Sournova sour beer on draft.
// 1240 9th Avenue, www.fiorella-sf.com
Healthy Rotisserie Eats: Village Rotisserie, Noe Valley
Opening September 2021 in my cozy former ‘hood of Noe Valley, Village Rotisserie sister-brother owners Priscilla Dosiou and Thomas Glenwright have transformed the former Le Zinc into a white, breezy shop accented by coral pinks, and on the intimate back patio, striped deck chairs and umbrellas, flanked by fig and lemon trees. Growing up in Sydney explains their Australian-style rotisserie focus. Chef Esteban Beas (formerly of Central Kitchen) cooks a light, fresh menu, offering various sizes of rotisserie and fried chicken with veggie or salad sides. While I have real concerns since this 2017 article that supposedly free-range, humane Mary’s chicken is not so, it still remains a major option for those trying to source humanely. Here, Mary’s chickens are cooked in a Radiant 2,000 rotisserie from Australia, turning out juicy and tender, with your choice of sauces like garlic, lemon mayo or a standout peri peri. Duck fat potatoes or fries are already popular, while trying a couple sides, my top pick is a healthy yet gratifying kale, corn, hemp seeds, pickled onions salad.
// 4063 24th Street, www.villagerotisserie.com
BONUS: NEW BAR
A Club with Quality Cocktails: Persona, TenderNob
As a longtime cocktail, spirits and bar writer and judge, I’ll admit: I’ve never been a nightclub person (and even get a little disdainful about them). Persona, which opened August 2021 in the TenderNob/Lower Nob Hill from Juan Loredo and Jose Natividad (who co-own BarrelHouse and Vinyl Room in Burlingame), feels like a club: subterranean, dark and sleek. So vibe-wise, it’s not my jam. But gracious Oscar Sinisterra (formerly of Cold Drinks, Hello Stranger) is crafting lovely, artful cocktails here that are worth a visit (especially in chill opening hours). Think woody palo santo-infused St. George Terroir Gin with Carpano Antica Formula, Campari and citrus oil in the Pay Close Attention cocktail, or a gorgeously fizzy Sweet Paradise where vodka, guava and kombucha result in a shrub-like, carbonated sipper.
// 685 Sutter Street, www.persona-sf.com