Top Tastes, rather than a list of all-time favorites (another thing altogether), are among the best eats since my last newsletter, often from new openings. Many don’t make the cut, being a revisit previously written about or simply not as stand-out as dishes mentioned.

EXPENSIVE RESTAURANTS

THERMIDOR, SoMa – The Mad Men craze is a natural for me as that era, from clothing to music to cocktails, has never gone out of style in my book. Whether through the Swingers/swing scene craze in Hollywood back in the 90’s, to the Mad Men resurgence currently, I’ve been collecting vintage dresses, obsessed with classic films and listening to records since I was a girl.

So as soon as I hear Thermidor is opening with a circa 1960’s/Mad Men vibe, I’m in. Even better that the menu is rife with classic dishes of the era. I am completely appreciative of the fact that they’re doing something different instead of the usual understated decor and Cali-fresh, charcuterie & pizza or pig-heavy menus. Not that I am not crazy about all those… I love anything done well. But I am ever grateful for a place that doesn’t just copy what is already there in abundance but seeks a lesser traveled road.

I love the look of the place: wood walls, white/Jetson’s-like vintage chairs, chrome chandeliers, wood paneling and high ceilings… 1960’s chic. The bar is inviting, with completely open doorways opening onto Mint Plaza. I’d return to sip the successful take off a Moscow Mule, the Warsaw Mule (cocktails all $9). It’s made with Bison grass vodka (one this non-vodka drinker likes), organic apple juice, lime, sunshine bitters and ginger beer. It’s refreshing but bracing, with a unique, layered profile.

I was intrigued by the Iceberg Daiquiri, not being the kind of thing I normally see on menus or would order. Thankfully, it wasn’t sweet, rather strong with a white rum/maraschino liqueur kick, a whiff of vanilla, and tart from grapefruit and lime. But I can’t say I ever want to go back to blended drinks days – I got ‘brain freeze’ from first sip, waiting for the drink to melt more before I could finish it.

I’ll get this out of the way now: portions are small in most cases, making prices too high for what you’re getting. The Renaissance Man and myself spent over $100 and didn’t leave full. But… what we had was by and large delicious. Excited as I was for a bit of Chips & Caviar ($6), I’ve had better versions at dinner parties (this one has smoked trout, creme fraiche and caviar on house-made chips).

On the $6 Hors d’Ouevres menu is Crispy Cauliflower, grilled in lemon and mint and quite satisfying. Celery Victor is puzzling (sounded so old school I had to order it). The first two celery stalks were fried and decent dipped in tartar sauce but were really just fried celery.

When I got to the third stalk, it had a white anchovy layered under the fry (as was listed on the menu) and suddenly perked up. I think they made a mistake: each stalk was supposed to have an anchovy? It transformed the appetizer.

A Mini-Lobster Roll ($15 – deal alert: there’s a full sized roll at lunch for only $3 more) was truly mini with nothing more than a side of (admittedly fabulous) pickled Tokyo turnips. I go on lobster roll hunts and though I’ve never had better than at Pearl Oyster Bar in New York, this one pretty much kicks ass. The brioche roll has the perfect combo of light crisp and melting softness, while the lobster is plump, sweet, coated in butter. Lobster Thermidor ($32), the priciest pinnacle of the entrees (otherwise $21-26), is disappointingly small (half a little lobster) but is ridiculously good, baked in the shell with brandy bechamel sauce and half of a twice-baked potato enhanced by crispy skin.

Next time I’ll go with our gracious waiter’s recommend for dessert (all $8.50): Caramelized Poppyseed Cake with thyme ice cream. Initially I had to order the one everyone is talking about: Coffee, Cigarettes & Doughnuts. Though I appreciate the notes of Jim Jarmusch in the dessert’s moniker, I couldn’t taste even a hint of tobacco in the white chocolate custard, nor much carrot in the carrot cake doughnuts. Coffee ice cream over crumbled, dirt-like cookie crumbs, was the highlight of a dish higher on presentation than taste.

I look forward to my next visit to this thankfully unique new restaurant, though thinking economically, it’s going to be for lunch or Chicken Kiev and cocktails at the bar.

MID-RANGE RESTAURANTS

HOG & ROCKS, Mission – I went to a test night of this brand new (sure to be) Mission hot spot, Hog & Rocks, so though I plan to return soon, this initial take comes with the caveat of a number of menu items not yet being available and kinks still being worked out. The space is spare with stainless steel and black, plus plenty of communal seating, and a focus on hams (hog) and oysters (rocks).

I was pleased to see tasting notes listed under the oysters – this should be standard. I sampled G&W Hamery’s 10-month aged ham from Murfreesboro, TN, with whiskey-glazed peanuts and cress salad, as well as Broadbent’s medium hickory smoked ham from Kuttawa, KY, with frisee and cherry tomatoes ($9-11 a platter). There are five hams to choose from, sliced thinly/prosciutto-like, and eight oysters ($1.50-2.50 each), though the menu changes for each.

Cocktails ($7-9) are classics like a Whiskey Sour, Tom Collins or a Hurricane (with the awesome idea of $1 of the latter going to New Orleans’ Gulf Coast Oil Spill Fund). At pre-opening, bartenders were still being trained and the cocktails I tried were solid, though lacking in the finesse you might find in the same drinks elsewhere, though the price point is good.

Wine and beer lists are short but thoughtfully chosen (delighted to see an Austrian Zweigelt among the 6 reds), with nods to the welcome, growing trend of a few kegs of wine available by the glass or carafe, and all available in $3.50 half glasses (wish every restaurant did this).

As for the food, it’s a smartly chic menu under $14 of dishes like Fish Pie ($14), Sweetbreads with piquillo peppers ($10), Corned Beef Tongue ($9) and Pickled Sardines ($9). Sadly, none of those were available pre-opening, but I did try Cast Iron Octopus ($10), pleasing enough grilled, with potatoes, pickled jalapeno and a ham vinaigrette.  Chicken Wing Confit ($10) is a generous portion of boneless chicken wings (not sure where the confit part comes in?) in a buffalo wing-style hot sauce with blue cheese dip. My favorite bite (besides sampling the hams) was Crab & Artichoke spread in a jar with Levian bread ($8). There are four different spreads in a jar (the Pimento Cheese, $6, with baguette is creamy, Southern satisfaction), and it’s in their most playful menu items such as these that Hog & Rocks shows its promise.

GREENS, Marina/Fort Mason – It’s a rare restaurant that survives 30 years. But to survive while maintaining a high standard in the kitchen is even more rare. This year is the 30th anniversary of Greens, the first high profile, upscale vegetarian restaurant in the country, with the lovely, warm Annie Sommerville as Executive Chef… and they have maintained.

The anniversary is a fine reason to return to a place I frequented more often when I first moved here nearly a decade ago. Though the space has remained the same with simple,  streamlined decor, stunning views of the Bay, Marin and Golden Gate Bridge remain the setting’s star, while the menu showcased the glories of Summer.

Current menu highlights: Grilled Blossom Bluff Peaches ($12) were improved, if that were possible, by Bellwether Farms‘ incomparable fromage blanc and a dab of Snyder’s wildflower honey, while fresh watercress tasted herbal, grassy. I’ve had a lot of corn cakes in my day, but their Ricotta Corn Cakes ($11.50) are among the finer with crispy white corn accented by jalapenos, scallions and smoked cheddar. House creme fraiche, fire roasted tomato salsa and pumpkin seed cilantro salsa accompanied.

On the entree side, Masa Harina Crepe ($23) is tortilla-reminiscent, made with corn masa, but a light, paper-thin crepe. More corn played prominent with peppers, poblano chilies, and grilled onions piled inside, accented by salsa and creme fraiche. I couldn’t taste chipotle lime butter on the accompanying grilled grazzini squash. I loved Summer Vegetables (carrots, squash, etc…) Indian Curry ($21.50 large; $17.50 small), a curry rich with coconut milk, ginger, tamarind, chilies, on top of mustard seed basmati rice, beautifully contrasted with a “chutney” of juicy peaches in a cherry glaze.

Bing Cherry Almond Cake ($8.75) was heavy on the almond, dry but for plump cherries, and rose geranium ice cream that was a soapy rose bomb. But altogether, it became another dessert entirely, no piece overwhelming the other, cake moistened by a creamy hint of rose.

Greens, after all these years, remains a destination for lovingly-prepared vegetarian cooking. Long may she live.

CHEAP EATS

Mission Chinese Food, Mission – Recently bereft of our beloved twice weekly Mission Street Food dinners in dingy Lung Shan and Mission Burger in Duc Loi Supermarket, there’s at least comfort in knowing founders Anthony Myint and Danny Bowien are still on the scene, now with playful Chinese food at Mission Chinese Food.

For starters, it’s cheap (under $10), but the killer part is: they deliver… anywhere in the city? Guess who’s been savoring some Ma Po Tofu ($8) – ground pork, fermented black beans, mushrooms, peppercorn, ginger and flaming chili oil over rice – from comfortably behind her desk at the Guardian? You can eat in, too, as they’re open seven days week (11am-10:30pm). However you eat it, something tells me you won’t find the likes of Peking Duck Chinito ($8) anywhere. Think Peking duck confit, cucumber and cilantro wrapped inside a Chinese donut. Then cover the roll in rice noodle and dip it in a spicy Hoison oil. I knew you’d be intrigued…

Zaytoon, Mission – A simple menu of five items, an unassuming, bright green and white storefront, and kindly staff make brand new Zaytoon a worthy Valencia Street stop for Falafel Wraps ($6.95-$7.95), Chicken or Lamb Shawerma ($7.95) or a Mazza Platter ($7.95) of falafel, dolmas, hummus, babaganoosh, tabouleh, cucumber/tomato salad and feta. The place and ingredients are spanking fresh, clean and easy to devour.

Moya, SoMa – Though not the best Ethiopian food around (favorites here), I love the mother/daughter team working at brand new Moya (just opened 7/12) and their lunch steal of three vegetarian dishes of your choice piled on injera with salad and yet more injera for just $8.

Mr. Pollo, Mission – Want one of the best Arepas in town ($1.50 for cheese, $5.50 with meat)? Head to Mr. Pollo near the 24th Street BART and get a warm off the grill Cheese Arepa, oozing with cheese and a hint of honey sweetness. It’s as good or better even than ones I had in Venezuela.

SAVORY – VEGETARIAN

If it was on a regular menu, I’d dive again into the (lightly) Buttermilk Fried Cauliflower, warm and dipped in Roasted Carrot Aioli ($5), that creative chef (and pork master – have you had his Chicharrones?) Ryan Farr cooked up last month at Mission Street Food’s brilliant, one-shot only Thursday night dinners at Lung Shan

Berkeley’s Taste of Africa (3015 Shattuck Avenue at Emerson, 510-981-1939) may look rundown, even dirty, but the affable cook serves up a mean platter of Cameroon specialties, as if you’re eating in an African friend’s kitchen (in fact, you are!) He doesn’t strictly follow the menu but will whip up what he has – just allow for plenty of time. He does a Vegetarian Combo platter (add tender, shredded chicken on top for the Meat & Veggie Combo, $14.99) – enough to feed two. My platter included Ndole (Cameroon peanut sauce, garlic, onions, tomatoes and spices) over Jollof rice, grilled Plantains, Ewole (collard greens sauteed in in lots of garlic, onions and tomatoes), and Nkule (yam “porridge”, or yams cooked in coconut milk). With homemade hot sauce, my mouth was blissfully on fire, exacerbated by the fabulous (the menu calls it “The BEST”) Fresh Ginger Drink ($5), which will not only add to the burn but literally clean you out.

Jardiniere, a gorgeous 1930’s-style supper club for the Opera/Symphony set, served lunch every Friday in December (would that they continue serving lunch – a better way to try this expensive jewel for less; I guess that’s what their J Lounge bar area is for). Winter chill was assuaged by Carnaroli Risotto with small cubes of Butternut Squash and Asian Pears, rich with cheese, the crunch of Toasted Walnuts, drizzled with a fine Aged Balsamic and a truffle-evocative foam ($26 at dinner, $18 at lunch or $14 for a smaller portion in the bar area).

SAVORY – SEAFOOD

La Mar Cebicheria is a welcome step up from many Peruvian spots – certainly more massive, even a “chain”, coming from one of South America’s biggest restaurateurs – but with greater menu variety, creativity and fresh excitement (not to mention a perfected Pisco Sour!) On my second visit, I loved Tiradito Nikei ($15), a sashimi-like offering of Ahi Tuna, drizzled in Nikei sauce, on a light bed of passion fruit and honey leche de tigre (a ceviche broth with a touch of pisco and Aji chile pepper).

SAVORY – MEAT

A plump Happy Belly hot dog ($6 for the works; $4 plain) from the Happy Belly Cart in Golden Gate Park, right by the DeYoung. You can get Beef, Bratwurst, Chicken Lemon or a Louisiana Hot Link (I love the spiciness of the latter), in a traditional hot dog bun, decorated with spicy mayo, sauerkraut and Korean kimchi (yep, you heard right… and it’s GOOD).

New B’s BBQ in Western Addition (855 Divisadero Street at McCallister, 415-525-3419) smokes Pete’s Links (beef or chicken sausages; I prefer beef) straight from Louisiana (so you know I’m in!), covered in sweet/spicy BBQ sauce ($11.85 for a half order, bread and side; $16.95 for full order, bread and two sides; side note: I wasn’t enthralled by the brisket or other BBQ items but enjoy the links).

SWEET

At a fab Chocolate & Cachaca party hosted by our city’s own fab Tablehopper, I downed some fascinating cocktails combining those two ingredients and loved the ScharffenBerger truffle creamy rich with coconut milk and cachaca!

DRINK

Order a Belmont Breeze ($9) at my new fave sexy Bohemian Basque (with touches of Morocco, France and Portugal), Gitane. This bright, seductive cocktail features Four Roses Bourbon, skillfully blended with Amontillado Sherry, Orange and Pomegranate juices (tequila-based La Perla – another great cocktail choice).

BREAKFAST

Oakland’s brand new Aunt Mary’s serves up soul/Southern food with East Bay flair in their weekend brunches: I liked the “Stuff in the Pepper” Poblanofilled with chorizo cornbread stuffing (with cherries, nuts, pear) over black beans ($10).

SAVORY – VEGETARIAN

Tropisueno just debuted in Yerba Buena Lane, acting as a super-fresh taqueria for lunch, and a more creative-flair Mexican restaurant and tequila bar at night. For lunch, a veggie taco does it (get it “super” to add sour cream and guac) stuffed with grilled zucchini, yellow squash, onions, red bell peppers, mushrooms and beans on a soft corn tortilla.

SAVORY – SEAFOOD

In Oakland, I was satisfied on a rainy afternoon with Pho 84’s crispy, lightly Fried Catfish with vermicelli noodles, mushrooms, onions and cilantro in a bracing, just-the-right-amount-of-spice coconut milk curry sauce ($14).

SAVORY – MEAT

After a crazy debut night of Mission St. Food in Lung Shan, a dingy Chinese hole-in-the-wall on Mission, they’re taking a hiatus for November, potentially looking for a bigger space. The first night I tried everything, but this one I had to order two of: PB&J, a Kurobuta Berkshire Pork Belly and Jicama in pickled jalapeno cilantro aioli on a homemade (incredible!) flatbread.

Tenderloin’s Morty’s Deli cures my Reuben (and East Coast) craving with either pastrami or corned beef (I like both in one sandwich) for $6.75, hot and pressed together with sauerkraut and a Swiss/Russian dressing. I love Morty’s!

Chan Chan Café Cubano (4690 18th Street at Clover; 415-864-4199) serves up the best Cubano sandwich I’ve had yet (in a city short on Cuban food, this new, Cuban-run neighborhood spot is a real find)… the Cuban was loaded with pork (only downside for some may be the excess fat, which is the source of the flavor), pickles and tomatoes, on a hearty bread in a subtle mayo of orange and Zinfandel. A gorgeous salad came with it, decorated with edible flowers, ripe with raspberries, blueberries, strawberries, mango, feta and candied walnuts. The salad dressing sent it over the moon: homemade raspberry vinagrette with sesame oil and garlic. I shall return!

SWEET

Berkeley is lucky to get new choco shop, Chocolatier Blue- besides making exquisite chocolates, I’m warmed up by handmade to order Dark Hot Chocolates, like the Cinnamon & Chili ($3.50), with a homemade vanilla bean marshmallow and rare, ultra-expensive Camargue Fleur de Sel in the mix from France.

DRINK

Range never fails to create some of the best cocktails in the country… classic, with creative flair. This month was no different as winter doldrums were beat with The Swafford: applejack, rye whiskey, maraschino liqueur, Chartreuse and a dash of Angostura bitters ($9.50).

For all you Whiskey/Scotch lovers, classic Lagavulin’s 16-year Scotch is a peaty, deeply smoky Scotch that can be found for around $55 a bottle, or get a glass at the Haight’s brown-liquor king, the Alembic to try it out.