Dec
01
2009

Top Tastes

Top Tastes is my usual run-down of tastes over the past two weeks. Rather than a list of all-time favorites (another thing altogether), it’s highlights since my last newsletter, often from new openings. Many don’t make the cut, being a revisit written about before or simply not as stand-out as dishes mentioned.

Charming new Pinkie's Bakery (serving Blue Bottle Coffee & boxed lunches) in Potrero (http://pinkiesbakerysf.com)

Charming new Pinkie's Bakery (serving Blue Bottle Coffee & boxed lunches) in Potrero (http://pinkiesbakerysf.com)

SAVORY – SEAFOOD

Thai Snapper at Mission Beach Cafe

Thai Snapper at Mission Beach Cafe

I’ve long been a fan of Mission Beach Cafe’s Pot Pie Tuesdays (rabbit pot pie, look out!) Since they’ve recently resumed, it’s a good a time as any to say the Seafood Pot Pie ($26) is killer. Yes, pricey, but rich and filled with, as the Renaissance Man said, no throw-away seafood: fresh chunks of lobster, crab and shrimp fill the flaky shell, with wok-fried sugar snap peas, cherry tomatoes and julienned leeks on the side.

Entrees are equally fine, like a brilliant Pan-seared Thai Snapper ($24) with crispy edges and purest white, flaky body. If it wasn’t already a perfectly seared fish, accents send it over the top: caramelized pears, grilled red endive, baby leeks, and best of all, a cardamom-chestnut soubise. Mission Beach is easily one of the better neighborhood dinner spots around, with service and setting emitting as warm a glow as the food. It’s amazing their dinners stay ever-so-slightly under-the-radar. More for you, then… go!

Clams and Seafood Chowder by the fire at Mayes Oyster House

Mussels and Clam Chowder by the fire at Mayes Oyster House

Though my opening week visit highlighted a few service kinks to work out, Mayes Oyster House remains a stirking space, even in its latest incarnation: pressed tin ceilings, leather booths and animal print armchairs by the fireplace intimate its 1867 glory days as a seafood house, now serving the likes of Hamachi Tartare ($9) and Kamikaze Oyster Shooters (2 for $5). Despite a decent Seafood Louie ($13) with crab, prawns and Canadian lobster, and ok bowl of P.E.I. mussels & clams ($11) with addictive garlic cheese bread ($3), my hands down favorite was creamy, clam-laden New England Clam Chowder ($7) with crispy sourdough croutons. I’d go back for a bowl of that by the fire.

SAVORY – MEAT

Lamb Shank at Luce's Frescobaldi Dinner

Lamb Shank at Luce's Frescobaldi Dinner

• Let’s throw in the entire Inspirations of Tuscany meal at Luce on 11/11 as a “Top Taste”. Not only was there a special 6-course menu (plus amuse bouche & palate cleansers – loved Sorrel Snow, a wheatgrass-like sorbet!) from SF’s charming Chef Dominique Crenn, who cooked with adorable Donatella Zampoli, exec chef of Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi wine estates in Tuscany.  They alternated cooking each course, with dishes like Eggplant Timbale, Parmesan Risotto with duck breast, Tuscan-style Lamb Shank. The chefs chatted with us, joking about historic competitiveness between France and Italy,  while exhibiting nothing but camaraderie. With the amount of food we feasted on, $75 could actually be called a deal. And then there were Frescobaldi wine pairings… (see Imbiber).

SWEET

Pumpkin Pancakes at Brenda's

Brenda's Pumpkin Pancakes

Brenda’s, how I adore you! Though I miss the quiet of the first year Brenda’s opened, long waits are worth it for the best New Orleans food in SF (and my favorite Shrimp & Grits dish ever, even of all the ones I’ve had in the South!) I love most every dish here over the years, but this week’s special of giant Pumpkin Pancakes ($9.50) crusted with gingersnap pecan streusel plus a side of vanilla cream cheese, was woefully delicious.

Choco Chili Fudge Pie at Wexler's

Wexler's Choco Chili Fudge Pie

• Working my way through Wexler’s desserts has been a pleasurable experience (see July Top Tastes). A recent visit yielded more, though I felt Sugar Pie Pumpkin Pie ($6) needed more of the barely-there Mexican Hot Chocolate Sauce as an accent. My favorite new dessert is Chocolate-Chili Fudge Pie ($6) with merely a whiff of chili, enough to add intrigue, and the salty joy of pretzels and toffee crumbled underneath.

Written by Virginia in: Top Tastes |
Sep
01
2008

Top Tastes

BREAKFAST

1300 on Fillmore

1300 on Fillmore

Luxurious brunch at my fave 1300 on Fillmore; order a generous entrée portion of Barbecue Shrimp & Creamy Grits (one of their best dishes, $14), perfect Scones (Three: Lemon, Blueberry, Raisin w/ Strawberry Rhubarb Preserves, $4), or a Hang Town Fry with egg, fried oysters (yes!), potato, bacon and toast ($9).

SAVORY – VEGETARIAN

Urban Tavern

Urban Tavern

At slick new Urban Tavern, I dined two nights after opening and service was earnestly attentive. The food? Entrees were good to mediocre for the price, while appetizers and cocktails all hit a home run… so my first/early take is go to the lounge/bar area for drinks and apps; my favorite app was a Special-of-the-day: comforting Tomato Bisque with Crème Fraiche, Basil, Red Pepper, EVOO, with a Provolone Grilled Cheese Sandwich layered with a sweet honey to dunk in the soup… if only I could have this when I’m sick, it would cure all ($8).

Pizzaiolo

Pizzaiolo

Using the best Anson Mills’ grains, a rich Polenta ($6) topped with your choice of Grana, Mascarpone or Gorgonzola at one of Oakland’s best neighborhood restaurants, the heartwarming (if mobbed) Pizzaiolo.

Over the years, I’ve eaten at well over a dozen restaurants in Burlingame but have yet to find much beyond suburban mediocrity (“best” options are local chains that originated in SF, like Straits Café). A new Burmese spot, Mingalaba isn’t going to change the fact that one needn’t venture from the city to dine here (Burma Superstar, even Nan Yang or Mandalay, it ain’t!) Many dishes are basically Americanized Chinese (Honey Walnut Prawns, anyone?), but if in town, Burmese Mango Salad ($8.50) is a refreshing traditional dish, with slivers of mango, cucumber, green pepper, onion, fried garlic chips, cilantro.

SAVORY – MEAT and SEAFOOD

Bushi Tei

Bushi-Tei

One of my favorite restaurants in SF, the surprisingly still under-the-radar (though not according to Michelin or Michael Bauer’s 3-star rating), ever inventive, decadent Bushi-Tei. I adore their mainstay appetizer, Lobster & Crab Salad (fresh chunks of meat, $18) with Chrysanthemum leaf lettuce, papaya, bacon, tossed in ginger cream and curry oil.

Brenda's Soul Food Kitchen

Brenda's Soul Food Kitchen

Cheesy Shrimp and Grits with Roasted Tomato and Bacon ($9) – a Special at Brenda’s French Soul Food, SF’s New Orleans’ gem. Oh, Brenda, please put this hearty, satisfying dish on your permanent menu! It’s one of the best things I’ve eaten there since it opened.

Oola

Oola

Coffee Roasted Duck Breast in Port Cinnamon Sauce on a bed of diced Caramelized Pear and Fingerling Potatoes ($25) – a surprisingly balanced, sweet/savory entree at Oola.

SNACK

Level III

Level III

Crispy Calamari with Preserved Meyer Lemon Remoulade ($10) at Level III in JW Marriott’s gorgeous, entire third floor bar/ restaurant, a classy, roomy space, with intriguing nooks and elegant couches – linger post-work with a fab half-price Happy Hour menu (4-7pm).

SWEET

Chewy Ginger Molasses cookies with chunks of crystallized Australian ginger from the incomparable Bakesale Betty’s.

DRINK

Coffee Bar

Coffee Bar

Clover Coffee at Coffee Bar – One of SF’s best cafes, serving excellent Mr. Espresso or an amazing cup of coffee made in a crazy expensive Clover machine from your choice of ever changing beans. You can drink your way around the world (Kenya, Papua New Guinea), as they freshly grind and brew each individual cup – the right way to start the day.

NOPA

NOPA

Minero Cocktail at NOPA – an herbal, aromatic, unique Pisco-based drink made with Quebranta Pisco, St. Germain, Lemon Juice, Egg White, Sunshine Bitters ($9).

Subtly sweet and smoky, smooth house-made Longan Juice (a fruit similar to lychees in appearance and texture; $3) at Basil Canteen, SoMa’s brand new Thai spot in the gorgeous space that was The Public.

Written by Virginia in: Top Tastes |

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