WINTER WEEKEND ESCAPES: SONOMA

Sonoma’s meandering, laid back roads soothe me. One of my top weekend escapes, I’m hard pressed to choose a favorite region of the massive county. Downtown Sonoma, however, is my favorite town in the county and staying near its leafy, green square surrounded by historic architecture, from Spanish mission to Old West storefronts, is a welcome combination of small town charm near rambling countryside and wineries (recent visits included tastings at Landmark Vineyards and Lasseter Family Winery, whose wines I reviewed last month).

Down the street from Sonoma’s town square is The Lodge at Sonoma. From the exterior, its warm brown tones invite, emitting merely a hint of corporate chain. The high-ceilinged lobby welcomes with chandeliers and inviting couches. About to undergo a major remodel, chic factor will rise quite a bit if colors and fabrics are any indication. A view over the pool and courtyard beyond to a series of cottages feels like its own private community. Walking to my upstairs cottage unit, I am impressed by vibrant foliage and plant life throughout the grounds.

Cottages are peaceful: a whirpool tub opens up between bathroom and living/bedroom, with fireplace and wine bottle waiting to be uncorked. It may not have the individualized charm of a Nick’s Cove, but it’s more affordable and plenty comfortable. Location makes it an ideal weekend respite, but the Lodge’s two biggest selling points may be its spa and restaurant.

RAINDANCE SPA

I had one of the best massages ever at the Lodge’s Raindance Space: full, intense and utterly relaxing. 50 minutes did the trick but the cares of the world drifted fully away by four mini-pools and hot tubs in a private courtyard. Vibrant red and orange fall leaves still clung to the trees, while various plant life and a water fountain added a soothing soundtrack. Reading and lounging in the courtyard made this short jaunt from the city feel like a true escape.

CARNEROS BISTRO & WINE BAR

Chef Andrew Wilson and Sommelier Christopher Sawyer took care of us at Carneros Bistro. The open, airy dining room houses an unexpected Sonoma gem. In fact, it is among the better meals I’ve had here, consistent from start to finish, including mostly local wine pairings and a solid beer list.

Chef Wilson is having fun with common dishes like tuna tartare, playfully marinating the tuna in Pliny the Elder beer. Or in the case of wood-roasted mussels ($13), imbuing heat via red curry sauce with kaffir lime, paired with Dry Creek’s Victor Hill 2010 Sauvignon Blanc ($12).

Though mussels were my top starter, salmon “pastrami” ($14) is one fine idea. Thinly sliced, it’s served with mustard sauce, pickled onions and rye crisps. Sawyer paired with it with Parmelee-Hill’s 2010 Syrah Rosé ($13), a dry yet creamy contrast to the salmon.

The most unique entree was coffee-dusted ahi ($29). Earthy coffee crust went far better than expected with rare, seared tuna… I’m used to coffee rubs with pork and heartier meats, but not fish. In garlic cream and red wine reduction, it was rich yet delicate. Another unexpected facet was the unlikely pairing of Audelssa 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon ($16). This full dish stands up to it.

Sonoma duck two ways ($27) was a crowd-pleaser: lacquered Liberty Farm’s Pekin breast, and a flaky tart of sous vide Sonoma Muscovy duck with caramelized onion, Pt. Reyes blue cheese and fig mostarda. Though the menu suggests pairing the duck with Cline 2008 Syrah ($12), I preferred Sawyer’s suggestion of Acorn’s Alegria Vineyards 2008 “Medley” red field blend ($15).

MORE SONOMA COUNTY DINING

Further afield in Sonoma County, my numerous weekend jaunts led me to these newer restaurants…

STARK’S STEAKHOUSE, Santa Rosa
They had me at the neon lit, retro exterior, radiating on a chilly winter’s night. Though roomy, Stark’s is packed on a weekend, making reservations a must. It may not be the best steak of your life, but it’s a damn good one and everyone seems caught up in the glow of the multi-room space. There’s too many families and kids to make it feel like date night, but the bar room is decidedly more grown-up with roaring fireplace and a good whiskey selection (Thomas Handy Rye for $12 a pour, thank you very much).

In keeping with the retro vibe, cocktails are a dominant force. It’s a pleasure just reading quirky drink descriptions like this one: Just Thinkin’ About Amaro ($9.50; Meletti amaro, Dewars White Label Scotch, egg white, lemon): “Whilst growing up in an orphanage, I developed a habit of enjoying a digestif after my evening meal. The nuns were never on board, but I didn’t care. I was a rogue. A rebel. A dreamer. I was also blacked out. Often.”

All that tongue-in-cheek (and being this far from city limits) had me concerned about drink quality. I was delighted to find that two drinks in particular were even more gratifyingly balanced than they sounded:  Sean Pecan-nery ($9.50) is an elegant blend of Four Roses bourbon, pecan, apple and warming spice topped with ACE pear cider. Dry and crisp, it’s a lovely aperitif. The Other Man ($10), served on the rocks, is nonetheless bracing with Buffalo Trace bourbon, Pur Blood Orange Spice, rosemary, chiles and cranberry. Evocative of winter, it exudes the right amount of spice and herbal sweetness.

On the seafood tip, Stark’s is Safe Harbor certified with oysters and dishes like citrus Pacific seabass. This bodes well for non-beef eaters, but being a steakhouse, after all, I opted for beef: a 10 oz. filet mignon 10 oz. (USDA Choice $33, USDA Prime $38), and 1/2 lb. burger ($10 + $2 each add-on) with blue cheese and caramelized onion (go decadent with a truffle fried egg for $3 or seared foie gras for $14). Both were quite juicy, medium rare as I asked. Steaks range from $25-$41 with sauces like truffle aioli or whole grain mustard bearnaise.

Sides ($4-8) are generous (I like brussels sprouts with Andouille sausage, apples, blue cheese), while starters are playful, like Dungeness crab “tator tots” ($13) with padron peppers and ginger mustard aioli.

MATEO’S CUCINA LATINA, Healdsburg

Despite impeccable ingredients and attention to detail (not to mention how delicious it all looked), I was a bit disappointed in the food at Mateo’s Cocina Latina. Most dishes sampled tasted more bland than exciting. I desire refined interpretations of Mexican food, but somehow this place left me craving a greasy taqueria.

Cocktails (on a menu assembled by Scott Beattie) and spirits are the draw here, heavy on tequila and mezcal. I fell in love with a creamy Martini de Calabaza: Arette Reposado, melds with organic pumpkin puree, winter spices and cream ($11.50) into one savory, spiced, milky whole.

SAZON, Santa Rosa

Sazon is in a pleasantly dingy strip mall stretch of Santa Rosa, but inside the humble, tiny dining room, Peruvian eats are prepared with care. While sipping housemade Chicha Morada ($3), a traditional, sweet purple corn punch, or a bottle of Inca Kola, fill up on five kinds of ceviche. I enjoyed Copitas de Blue Tilapia ($12.50) for a change of pace from tuna and the usual. Tilapia is marinated with aji amarillo and rocoto peppers, ginger, celery, parsley and lime with yuca and plantain chips to scoop it up.

Causa Limena is topped with chicken or Dungeness crab ($9/10). I chose the traditional crab atop a whipped potato mound, causas among my favorite Peruvian eats. Creamy aji amarillo-lime sauce infuses the potato terrine, with accents of avocado, egg, and rocoto-cilantro aioli. Aji de Gallina ($12) was a bit bland (not my top version of the classic pulled chicken stew – LA’s Mo-Chica serves the best I’ve  had) in a creamy aji amarillo sauce with hard-boiled egg, Yukon gold potatos and walnuts.

WINTER WEEKEND ESCAPES:
NICK’S COVE, Tomales Bay

Once off the 101, it’s a winding trek via country lanes to Tomales Bay. On the shores of the Bay with its outlet to the Pacific Ocean visible in the distance, sits Nick’s Cove. Nick’s is a settlement built in the 1930′s with cottages and a restaurant on pilings over the Bay. There’s little else nearby; even cabins across the street are part of Nick’s. The cozy little row of cottages and main house reflect a boating, fishing spirit reflecting a history of hard-working folks who built the structures.

I’m a regular traveler, globally and nationally, even having stayed in Tomales Bay before. I can say Nick’s Cove is one of of my favorite places I’ve ever stayed. Upon arrival on a crisp, clear winter’s night, I felt immediately transported to somewhere far, far away… not merely one hour from my home in the city but to quiet, soothing shores.

Nick’s restaurant sits at the edge of a pier lit up by Christmas lights with a quirky Boat Shack perched at its end. In-shack telephones and menus allow you to call up the restaurant for food and drinks, as you lounge under the gaze of a diving mask evoking 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea. I could linger here for quite some time.

Stepping inside my cottage (I stayed in “Al”), elicited a sigh of delight. The space emits that warm glow of home, but with the comforts of a posh hotel.

From the cozy cabin is a view of the Bay and pier, while knotty, wood walls remind me of my grandpa’s home of over 60 years. Fishing poles, vintage photos, and a comfy, brown leather couch decorate the living room next to a wood-burning stove.

There’s a breakfast and a coffee table and a cabinet hiding a TV (from which I played classic Loretta Lynn, Gene Autry, and George Jones tunes on a traditional country music station ideally suited to the space). A wood hutch is lined with bottles of spirits, like Bulleit Bourbon and vermouth. One could make their own Manhattan or basic cocktail. Nice touch.

Through the tiny living room is a bedroom with inviting, king-sized bed, plump pillows and vintage lamps.

A roomy bathroom is delightfully old school, with clawfoot tub, classic floor tiles that are heated (praise be!), and vintage sink.

Most importantly, from our private deck (visible to neighboring cottage decks), the water’s gentle lapping underneath lulled me into rest.

There’s internet and TV, but you don’t need it.

Here you feel hundreds of miles from stress and pressure, nestled between the hills and blue water of Tomales Bay.

FOOD & DRINK

There aren’t many options on these isolated shores of Highway 1. But thankfully you only need one and it’s literally a few feet from your cabin or cottage. Nick’s Cove restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, with drinks and bar bites by the roaring brick fireplace in the bar, or water views from just about every table.

The shocker is that despite the seafaring paraphernalia and all day menus, there’s little kitschy or touristy about the food. In fact, I was surprised to find it damn good, particularly in the case of a brilliant off-menu chef’s special of a seared scallop atop a red rice cake in a curry sauce. A dish like this makes me intrigued to see what else the young, talented executive chef, Austin Perkins, can do.

Meanwhile, there’s a heaping pile of fritto misto ($14): delicately fried calamari and rock cod tossed with sweet potato, fennel and lemon peel. I won’t complain about pumpkin arancini ($12) with maple-cinnamon sour cream to dip those fried squash balls in.

On the non-fried tip, Dungeness Crab Risotto ($21) is generously laden with crabmeat – maybe as much crab as rice. Crispy yams, pancetta and Parmesan cheese dot the mountain o’ crab. Under entrees, fish specials of the day are a key way to go though there’s also wood-roasted ribeye ($29), braised lamb shanks ($23), and rabbit pappardelle ($23).

** Rates run anywhere from $225-$790 a night depending on season, cottage vs. cabin, and size of cabin. Take note of Nicolina, a darling, little boat on stilts, like a cozy captain’s berth.

WINE COUNTRY SNAPSHOTS

In my many jaunts to Wine Country, I never suffer for options. Even after a decade, I am ever experiencing new delights. In addition to recent weekends (Calistoga to family-run wineries), here’s a few more bite-sized fall delights that will be equally pleasing this winter.

Coffee goodness

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Napa Valley Roasters is a family-run affair with the original shop in downtown Napa and a larger cafe in St. Helena. Nancy Haynes is president, carrying on the legacy begun by husband who started the business many years back, while son Charlie Sange is the roastmaster. Using a vintage Probat roaster, he rotates batches of beans each shift, personally adjusting roasting times and techniques for each style. They supply coffee for numerous high profile restaurants all over Wine Country.

I’ve spent time in both cafes, and though I am inclined towards the character of the historic Napa space with high ceilings and creaky wood floors, I value the welcoming vibe of the St. Helena location. Locals chatted me up as I wrote over espresso and coffee, alongside the well-loved, red Probat machine. At home, I savored their robust French roast beans, each cup a reminder of a family who clearly cares about coffee and their community.

Gourmet spread, with a view

Ram’s Gate Winery is one of the more exciting winery openings I’ve seen in Wine Country. Having visited a couple of times (including the pre-opening party in September), I’m mesmerized each visit by the winery setting atop a small hill surrounded by wide valley vistas.

The building itself is an architectural delight. An array of room feature high ceilings, comfortably chic chairs, fireplaces, massive, open air spaces and patios flowing into one another, all taking in that view. Rustic with weathered woods, the structure is likewise visionary and modern.

Yes, there is wine, from Pinot to Syrah (I am partial to their Sparkling Brut), but a highlight of Ram’s Gate is Executive Chef Jason Rose, who’s resume includes a stint as Culinary Project Manager at the Delfina Restaurant Group. His cooking is worth going out of your way for alone. Small plates represent (naturally) the best of local bounty and are as refined (and damn tasty) as the better restaurants nearby.

Though the address is Sonoma, one of the key factors Ram’s Gate has going for it is a location right off the 121, en route to  Napa and Sonoma counties, barely over 30 minutes drive from SF. It’s now a key stop for a snack, a sip, or a full meal.

Old world Napa

Way up winding roads from St. Helena, Smith Madrone is run by brothers Stu and Charles (Stu founded the winery in 1971). At first meet, Charles is mild-mannered and polite, while Stu is a straight-shooter, peppering his talk with more than a few swear words. Stu took me on a ride around the winery grounds, tucked into the slopes of Spring Mountain.

Being harvest time, grapes rested in open air vats in the small, barn-like winery, giving off a fragrant, sweetly boozy aroma, surrounded by past vintages aging in French oak.

Far off the beaten path, this sleepy (though hard-working) vineyard evokes a Napa of decades ago. It seemed a glimpse of what Napa was like before 1976′s Judgement of Paris, before Mondavi elevated Napa on the global wine map. Here there is a sense of place, history and family that feels very much Napa. It made me grateful to see it preserved in this peaceful hideaway.

A short walk from the winery is an unexpected, breathtaking view (above). Standing on the edge of Spring Mountain, the slopes cut down to the valley with the Eastern ridge visible across the valley. Sipping a glass of their dry Riesling (bright with floral summer fruit) with this view before me, I had a moment. Taking in the silence of pine ridges and mountains, hills and valleys, vineyards and sun, I was reminded of how sweet it is to be alive.

Fine dining in a Westin hotel

La Toque seems an unlikely fine dining destination for hardcore foodies inside the Westin Verasa Napa hotel. But a tasting menu here (four courses $74, five for $90, chef’s table menu $135) leads with impeccable waitstaff and service, surprises with inventive dishes, and an international wine list. The decor, while refined, felt a bit stiff, but service is so warm, one forgets the surroundings, particularly when a dish like Maine lobster creamy with butternut squash comes out, illumining another direction for lobster – one vividly fall-like.

Garden-fresh creativity

Ubuntu is one of Napa County’s best restaurants – and I am decidedly not a vegetarian. This “soup” may look as spare as bird food. I’ll admit, portions on some dishes do run small. But sharing four plates each visit I somehow leave full, and in what is a rarity for me anymore, there’s always a few dishes unlike any I’ve had before. A complex, pleasing range of flavors is commonplace at Ubuntu.

SANTA CRUZ WEEKEND

The Renaissance Man surprised me recently with a quiet weekend away in Santa Cruz and unexpected meal off the slow, winding roads of the Santa Cruz Mountains. Though Santa Cruz is far from my favorite town, its laid back feel and beaches work for a quick getaway from SF, and its gourmet pleasures peak with ice cream and coffee.

Ice Cream, Coffee, Chocolate

THE PENNY ICE CREAMERY, 913 Cedar St., Santa Cruz  831-204-2523

The Penny Ice Creamery may not achieve the texture and flavor perfection of Humphry Slocombe, but it’s in that family of gourmet, out-of-the-box creameries, with changing flavors and hip status that keeps lines out the door. They use grapes from nearby vineyards like Birichino for their sweet, bright Malvasia Grape Sorbet, or Dirty Girl berries in Strawberry Pink Peppercorn, one I particularly liked for its peppery creaminess. My top pick was Celery Raisin, which was both vegetal and sweet, almost healthy tasting. One thing’s certain: I’d include a stop at the Penny every time I’m passing through Santa Cruz.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

MARIANNE’S ICE CREAM, 1020 Ocean St., Santa Cruz  831-458-1447

I’ve been buying Marianne’s Ice Cream at Faletti Foods market in SF for years, particularly the peppermint stick flavor. Their ice cream is made with butter fat, explaining it’s dense texture. Also over 50 years old, Marianne’s ice cream is old school yet satisfying like Mitchell’s here in SF. Their shop evokes an America of decades ago in flavors like a creamy root beer or candied ginger.

FILLING STATION, 1500 Mission St., Santa Cruz  831-427-3455

Filling Station is an atmospheric spot for coffee in an old filling station. Retro gas station architecture meets third wave coffee as they serve SF’s Four Barrel coffee, while permanent food truck, The Truck Stop, offers eats.

DONNELLY CHOCOLATES, 1509 Mission St., Santa Cruz  831-458-4214

A humble looking shop across the street from Filling Station, Donnelly Fine Chocolates is obviously a chocolate lovers haven from the moment you walk in to witness the chocolate being made by hand.

Bars are elegant in flavors like cardamom, smoky spicy chipotle, or Chinese five spice, while truffles/chocolates come with a range of fillings, including a booze-filled series. I tried tequila (Patron Anejo), brandy (Germain-Robin), and Scotch-filled (brand changes) chocolates.

VERVE COFFEE, 104 Bronson St., Ste. 19, Santa Cruz  831-464-8141

To coffee fanatics, Verve needs no introduction. THE coffee of note to come out of Santa Cruz, its original shop has long been a staple in these parts.

Verve remains one of my top coffees, served to perfection at home in SF at Matching Half Cafe and farm: table. There’s finally a brand new, second Verve shop in Santa Cruz. It’s in an ultra-cool warehouse that shines in modern design and spaces for coffee roasting, cupping classes and tastings.

Restaurants

TYROLEAN INN RESTAURANT, Ben Lomond (9600 Highway 9, 831- 336 -5188)

Blink and you’ll miss the “town” of Ben Lomond where the Tyrolean Inn welcomes with a red cabin accented by white shutters, white lights and hints of green. Surrounded by a biergarten, one imagines sunny idylls among redwoods sipping German beers. Alas, Sunday afternoon is the only lunch/daytime option (open 12-9pm, or 5-9pm Tu-Th, 4-10pm Fr-Sa).

I fell in love with Tyrolean cuisine in the Italian Alps about three years ago, exploring mountain towns and roadside sausage stands on the Austria/Italy border. I wouldn’t exactly call Tyrolean Inn what I tasted there, rather it’s German food with whispers of Austria.

Though in the middle of nowhere, locals are clued in about this convivial wood cabin where one is serenaded by live accordion throughout dinner. Service was stressed the night we dined and a reservation was crucial. Waiting for our reservation was helped by a small, sweet selection of poire williams (Germanic-style pear eaux de vie), particularly Williams Birne.

Steins, pretzels, gardening tools and Germanic phrases eclectically line the walls, creating convivial distraction. Though short-staffed, servers kept a sense of humor in their frazzled state.

I wouldn’t call the food gourmet, but portions are enough for a few. Tyrolean Schmeckerplatte ($21) is a mountain of meat, starting with a slice of smoked pork loin, Cordon Bleu (smoked ham and Swiss cheese layered between breaded pork cutlets), bockwurst sausage, sauerbraten beef over red cabbage in gravy, plus spatzle and sauerkraut. The highlight was Cordon Bleu, reminiscent of Italian Milanese-style dishes, which you can thankfully order as its own dish. Zigeunerschnitzel ($18), pork cutlets in spicy red & green pepper onion sauce (with fried potatoes and a German salad), didn’t quite work for me. Again, it could feed two, but tasted as if the pork and peppers were doused in seasoning powder, evoking quick-and-easy 1980′s meals.

An enchanting woodside setting with flowing beers and hearty food, comforts as if your German mama was presiding over the kitchen herself.

BONNY DOON’S CELLAR DOOR in the winery, Santa Cruz

To wine fans, Bonny Doon Vineyard and its legendary founder Randall Grahm need no introduction. One look at their whimsical website, and you know this is a different kind of winery. Sitting right in the middle of suburban Santa Cruz, there’s no vineyard setting, rather a funky warehouse with tasting room and Cellar Door restaurant.

I finally made it to the Cellar Door for an a la carte lunch (there’s a $40 per person prix fixe at dinner). Burrata salads, anchovies, wood-fired pizzas, are all foods I’ve seen in excess and had in excellent form in San Francisco (and beyond) for years.

One could not honestly call the menu inventive, but for Santa Cruz, it stands out, and, in typical Northern California fashion, does so with exceptional ingredients. A simple plate of boquerones ($5) yields silky fresh anchovies in olive oil laced with slivers of garlic clove, thyme, a touch of red chili. Transported me straight back to Italy.

Di Stefano burrata with Heirloom tomatoes and rosemary toast ($12) is admittedly a small portion. But each bite was excellent, from luxurious burrata (mozzarella) to buttery toast. Roasted Early Girl tomato soup topped with sheep’s milk ricotta was a special of the day, while 2/3 of the restaurant seemed to have ordered the El Salchicherro bacon pizza. I followed suite but added a fried farm egg ($16 without, $18 with). There are many “bests” in the Bay Area for Neapolitan pizza and this wasn’t it, but it was quite satisfying on a grey October day in Santa Cruz.

The highlight of eating here may be the choice of Bonny Doon sips to pair with your meal. My top was Querry apple/pear/quince cider ($7 glass/$26 bottle). Dry and tart, its effervescence made a gorgeous contrast to the satin sheen of the anchovies. 2008 Ca’Del Solo Grenache Blanc ($7 glass/$11 quartino/$25 bottle) is a creamy, round Grenache, clearly oaked but it works.

2007 Cuvee ET is a Mourvedre blend, exhibiting bright berry but with balanced acidity. Their 2000 Le Cigare Volant flagship Rhone blend ($10 glass/$15 quartino/$40 bottle) is, as our server said, right at its peak at 12 years with light tobacco notes, earthiness and a fine minerality.

A Weekend in Calistoga

The Northern end of Napa has long been my favorite part of the Valley, namely for increasing oak trees towering over vines, and the way Highway 29 morphs from straight arrow into winding road (just like the beautiful and far less congested drive parallel along Silverado Trail). A recent weekend in Calistoga afforded one of the most relaxed I’ve had in my many dozens in Wine Country over the years. Visiting Kelly Fleming winery (by appointment only) was the impetus for my trek north, while I felt restored at Indian Springs, lounging around the Buddha Pond, swimming in an olympic-sized pool, and finally trying those famed Calistoga mud baths (I can now say I’ve done it).

Calistoga is a small town and the dining choices are therefore minimal. Lincoln Ave., the town’s main drag, is less overrun than St. Helena’s main street and less touristy than Yountville’s V Marketplace. It’s the real deal: small town Americana, laid back, approachable, and merely a few blocks long.

Calistoga now has their own organic, locally roasted, fair trade coffee, Yo El Rey, a humble little shop that feels like a college coffee dive but serves robust coffee made with care. Besides the shop, they serve their coffee at Calistoga’s Saturday farmers market where I also bought Calistoga Inn’s newest housemade granola, laden with ginger, orange, spice. I’d like to stock my cabinet with this one. A new juice bar inside Calistoga Kitchen, a catering company, is an unexpected treat. Only a few juices, but each made by the sweet owner at a charming café and garden. I’m a little disappointed in the food at longtimer All Seasons (despite inviting, retro cafe decor). But Calistoga has grown up in the realm of two relatively newer (within the last 2-3 years) restaurants: JoLe and Solbar

JoLe, 1457 Lincoln Ave, Calistoga, 707-942 5938

JoLe brings a bit of city chic to Lincoln Ave. Clean lines around a wood-burning oven and cozy wood bar are merely the backdrop for ambitious dishes. The a la carte menu reads reasonably with nothing over $18, but a meal quickly adds up to over $100 for two if one goes for the basic tasting menu: 4 courses for $50 (also 5 courses $65, 6 courses $80). Thankfully, you can chose any mix of dishes you want. One can save going a la carte, where portions are bigger so not as many courses are needed. Generally, the price of the final bill doesn’t feel quite congruent with the casual, buzzing atmosphere.

Besides ever present wine, it’s refreshing to see a few cocktail options, and the bar staff can make off-menu classic or classically-inspired cocktails with their strong spirits selection (many of them local and small batch). Napa Valley 75 ($10) is a classic French 75 but with Bay Area ingredients: 209 Gin, Schramsberg Blanc de Noir, Meyer lemon juice and agave. Strawberry Tarragon ($10) is strawberry-infused Espolon tequila with tarragon, Peychaud’s bitters and egg white to soften it. I wished the tarragon was more prominent, but it’s still a crowd-pleasing concoction.

Dishes like grilled cauliflower ($8) underwhelmed, though Dungeness crab and saffron aioli normally would be just what I’d want with cauliflower. Local Heirloom tomato salad ($10) is a dime-a-dozen dish during tomato season but I never tire of excellent tomatoes. With zucchini puree and curry oil I expected a kick, but sadly the curry was all too subtle.

With Cheryl’s Tasting ($18), however, chef Matt Spector illumines his possibility. The trio plate recalls the types of East-meets-West seafood dishes I’ve had at Ame in San Francisco. Three mini-dishes of lobster, uni and cuttlefish (the latter in the form of custard) are steal at $18 for such gourmet, painstaking bites.

Chicken fried quail ($15) was the most satisfying dish, its crispy skin crackling tight over tender meat, accented by haricot verts (aka green beans) and blackberries, resting in a puddle of corn jus. Not quite in the same league but still pleasing were scallops ($17) with chanterelles, Tasso (that ever satisfying Southern ham) and peas in peach BBQ sauce, or Korean-style short ribs ($15) with Napa cabbage, chili, peanuts, cilantro, mint.

For dessert, I opted for a tart, summery lemon huckleberry truffle, essentially lemon pound cake layered with cream, huckleberries and lemon in a pilsner glass, and house sorbets and ice creams, all made by Sonjia Spector, wife of Matt. JoLe skillful dishes in an unpretentious setting, representing Calistoga comfort but with gourmet edge.

SOLBAR, 755 Silverado Trail, Calistoga, 866-942-7442

Solage Resort sprawls over a large patch of land off Silverado Trail with modern chic cottages and main houses, including restaurant Solbar, facing a giant pool with floor to ceiling windows and spacious patio bordered by couches. The restaurant is industrial with high ceilings and touches of brown and olive green.

Solbar delivers relaxed high end to the countryside of Calistoga. Unfortunately, this can transport a mix of clientele evoking the plastic nether regions of Miami or LA, or essentially the Real Housewives set. Some plastic surgery-amplified couples or girlfriends out for a Wine Country weekend mix with upper class families and their kids. This makes Solbar a bit hard to bear at times and is far cry from the downhome people one sees wandering Calistoga’s main street.

Appetizers are around the $15 mark and entrees closer to $30 – one hungry person can easily eat one of each. The cost doesn’t quite add up with the fairly casual (though chic, modern) tone of the space, particularly if your table outside is surrounded by children, as I’ve experienced. Walking away at over $150 for two should offer a bit more of an adult setting, though attentive service ups the experience, as does gorgeous Summer evening weather.

What Solbar brings to Calistoga is truly cosmopolitan cooking. Whereas JoLe is the warmer welcome of the two, Solbar has a leg up on consistently excellent, often creative dishes. Lemon lime soup ($12) is certainly Tom Kha Gai-inspired with lemongrass, lime leaf, jasmine rice, coconut milk, broccoli florets, but its citrus tart is brighter than typical in the classic Thai soup. Dollarhide Ranch peaches ($15) are served with Italian staple San Danielle prosciutto. Charred onions add on s a sweet, smoked layer, while lavender honey Parmesan mousse elevates nuance in what could be a common dish. Instead, it expresses the glories of Summer.

A Monterey Bay sardine ($14) is generous and glistening, just the way I love them. For those who’ve never had sardines fresh and plump as you can find them in San Francisco or along the coast of Italy, to name a few places, Solbar’s dish would be an excellent introduction. Gypsy peppers, nicoise olives, and pickled fennel open up various expressions of the fish, resting in a bit of aged sherry vinegar. No dish was more fun than Brannan Street BLT ($15). Stacked between a house-made English muffin is a bacon fat-basted egg, fried green tomato and shredded romaine slathered with aioli. It would make a fabulous breakfast.

Cocktails here are among the best in all of Napa. Though it’s still a rarity to get cocktails of this quality nearby, that to me doesn’t justify the $14-15 average. San Francisco is not far away and littered with artisanal and classic cocktails, many of them excellent at $8-10, with the pricier average more like $12. It seems odd to find these even more expensive than in the city. But they are artfully made and delicious. Smashed Margarita ($14) is made with the ever-respected Siete Leguas blanco and lime, given that smoky, mineral touch I’m crazy about from a splash of Sombra mezcal and smoked, orange-infused Cointreau. A pasilla chile and smoked salt rim confirms it’s status as a fine margarita. Deer Park Sour ($14) appeals to the Scotch lover on the light, refreshing tip: Glenfiddich 12yr and lemon are enriched with maple syrup, lavender tincture, and egg white. Trade Secret ($14) is my favorite of recent visits. It plays like an elevated tiki drink sans rum. Germain-Robin brandy and Batavia Arrack may not sound tiki, but combined with pineapple juice, lime, house-spiced pineapple molasses and peppercorn, it’s sweet, spiced, boozy perfection.

A finish of Robin’s chocolate cake ($10) wins with a scoop of their house Old Rasputin stout ice cream. Though sold on the fact that the dessert includes mustard caramel and sea salt pretzels, I was disappointed not to taste much mustard or enough sea salt. It is still a worthwhile dessert mainly due to the ice cream, though punching up the salty/savory aspect would make it divine.

All in all, every visit I’ve made to Solbar has been a pleasing one. Clientele and prices are a struggle, but the tastes are most seamless of any place I’ve been to in the area, and it’s one of the better in all of Napa. Sitting couchside near the pool on a warm Summer night for appetizers and cocktails allows one to soak in the slow pace of the region, but not lose in big city quality and invention.

MARIN

Tavern at Lark Creek’s new Biergarten, Larkspur

Think towering redwoods, smoky aromas of sausages, onions and peppers wafting from a grill, German beers on tap from a cooler, and a darling oompah band of elderly gentleman playing with spunk and skill. Enter the just-launched this week Biergarten at The Tavern at Lark Creek. For a short jaunt from the city to Larkspur, it feels worlds away.

I arrived the inaugural Sunday, 8/21, to sunny, fresh air and the knowing shade of those gorgeous redwoods that flank the Tavern (more a classic yellow and white house than tavern). The Biergarten will run every Sunday through October 30 (2–5:30pm) outside the restaurant. It evokes Munich beer garden days but with a decidedly California spirit from towering redwoods and elevated beerhaus food.

Chef Aaron Wright grills up smoked beer or chicken apple sausages and garlic bratwurst, juicy and savory, accompanied with grilled onions, peppers and two types of mustard. House-made pretzels come generously dusted with sea salt, or German potato salad helps in soaking up pints of Spaten’s Pilsner and Dark Optimator. Food operates with a ticket system (1-2 tickets, at $5 each, per dish or beer).

When the oompah band raised their steins with rowdy joy, I raised mine, feeling time stop if for a moment, aware of the simple joys of taste, smell, music, camaraderie and nature on a Sunday afternoon.

El Paseo, Mill Valley

Tyler Florence and Sammy Hagar’s (yes, of Van Halen) rebirth of El Paseo, the historic, brick-lined labyrinth of a space tucked off an alley in Mill Valley since 1947, has been going strong since March. And if you’ve tried, you know it’s mighty difficult to get a reservation. I have found, however, on a weeknight or Sunday, that slipping into the bar around 7:30pm affords me one of its two cozy tables, while seats at the bar tend to open up pretty regularly.

Despite the fact that I can vouch for the quality of food coming out of the kitchen, the number one reason to go is still that magical space. The enchantment of candlit, brick-walled walkways opening up into one dim, romantic dining room after another, evokes a subterranean wine cellar feel.

Even the font used for the restaurant name (on plates, knives, menus) harkens to the past, while the straightforward American chophouse menu confirms the old school vibe.

Though nothing here has been revolutionary, an heirloom salad ($15) loaded with yellow and red tomatoes, crispy croutons and thick mozzarella, is fresh, if a little salty, and more artful than expected. A a side of creamed corn ($8) is pretty much Summer goodness encapsulated.

Steaks ($26-29 or $60-90 for two) are juicy, dry-aged (for 38 days) California Holsteins (some come wrapped in bacon). Cravings for beef are satiated. As they are with the Béarnaise burger ($16): medium rare, its tenderness melts between toasted brioche, dripping with caramelized cioppolini onions and Nueske’s bacon.

There’s a worthy wine list, yes, but the one thing missing is a fine Scotch or bourbon/rye cocktail.

All in all, I’d come return again for more meaty, candlit enchantment.

Cuban Delights in Oakland

There’s not enough Cuban food in the Bay Area. No, this is (thankfully) not Miami with its close proximity to Cuba and, therefore, plethora of Cuban food. But I wouldn’t trade the vibrant cuisines we are swimming in for anything.

It’s with joy I speak of a new Cuban cafe, Cana, in Oakland. Pretty much a walk-up counter with one table inside plus patio seating, Cana scratches the Cuban itch with winning pastries (try a flan-like, guava tart – Pastry de Guayaba, $4.50 – or a Chocolate Ancho Chile Cookie, $2) or lunch and dinner items, like a hefty Cubano ($8.50), loaded with pork, ham, Swiss cheese, crunchy with pickle, contrasted by hot mustard.

It’s satisfying, affordable food, filling a needed niche. They custom-grind beans for coffee and espresso. I ordered a classic Cafe Cubano ($2.50), robust but ultra-sweet, as tradition demands. It accompanied a read-through of one of their books on Cuba (I enjoyed one on Havana’s heyday of bar, cocktail and music culture pre-Castro).

In the other half of the space, currently papered over, they are preparing to open a parlor, or essentially a bar/lounge focused on rum & agricole cocktails, with an in-house cane press (!), cigars, their cafe menu, and live music. If it’s as good as it sounds, this will be one special cafe.

Affordable & Surprising NAPA

After countless weekends in Napa over the years (and at least five excursions lately), I could easily recommend worthy restaurants and hotels. Napa isn’t always the most affordable town, but recent visits north have revealed a number of delightfully reasonable options within the bounds of Napa and Yountville, both new and established. They’ve also uncovered a few unexpected dishes… or in the case of a restaurant with a new chef, a whole range of them.

Sleep… and a Superior Burger: NAPA VALLEY MARRIOTT, 3425 Solano Avenue at Redwood Road, Napa, 707-253-7433

For those familiar with the hotel before, Napa Valley Marriott is a whole new ballgame. Just re-opened after two years of multi-million dollar renovations, it now sports a soothing spa, warm, modern look throughout, an ultra-cool patio poolside with couches and firepits, and a new restaurant/bar, VINeleven. Though you may not be able to tell from the street, it’s a dramatic revamp inside.

In high-season summer months, make a weekend of it with rooms in the low $200-300′s, or mid $200′s on weeknights. Rooms are completely renovated with gentle colors and artwork, plasma screens, comfy beds, and are particularly quiet facing the courtyard (only thing they don’t have? Free wi-fi. That’s $4.95 a day).

Chef Brian Whitmer’s garden off the parking lot is a revelation. I’ve seen Napa restaurants with their own gardens but not one as lush as his. Spring peas are crispy and sweet right off the vine, while a range of leafy greens make abundant salads. Chef Whitmer uses this bounty for the hotel’s restaurant. Whether you stay there or not, it’s surprisingly worth a detour.

Cozy up in a chic booth or a grab a stool at the curved bar and order the Spicy “Knife and Fork” Burger ($12) for breakfast, lunch or dinner. It doesn’t matter when, just order it. The burger is made of Caggiano chorizo, savory and spicy, yet also delicate, melt-in-your-mouth on a Model Bakery brioche bun. Layered with aged cheddar, watercress, ‘secret sauce’ and a fried egg, it’s one of the better things I’ve eaten in Napa in awhile -  an utterly unique burger. You won’t regret making a stop for this one.

Vegetarian achieves perfection: UBUNTU, 1140 Main Street near Pearl, 707-251-5656; dinner nightly/lunch weekends

I really liked Ubuntu before. Chef Jeremy Fox brought the vegetarian restaurant to nationwide fame, often named among the best vegetarian restaurants in the country by publications like the New York Times… all superlatives I found a bit excessive.

But I’ll tell you now, with young chef Aaron London at the helm, it’s better than ever. The food has moved from winning vegetarian cuisine to work-of-art. It’s gone from quality to superb.

As a non-vegetarian, I would say it has become possibly the best vegetarian restaurant I’ve ever been to anywhere and one of the best dining experiences in Napa.

What’s interesting about Chef London is that he’s been at Ubuntu since the beginning, working as Fox’s sous chef. I hear he influenced a number of dishes in those lauded early days, but we did not hear much about him. Just nominated as Rising Star Chef at this year’s James Beard Awards, we should be hearing a lot more.

He’s revamped the menu in such a way that each $10-19 dish is far more than the sum of its part. You read of Roasted & Raw Asparagus ($16) with burratta cheese coated in potato chip crumbs and really have no idea what you’re in for. A garden-fresh dish comes out smeared with earthy potato skin puree, lavished with pine nut and currant soffrito, dotted with frisee, greens and edible flowers. It’s an art piece that not only stuns visually but tantalizes on the tongue with a range of flavors.

The two key words I’d use to describe London’s cooking outside of artistic? Texture and contrast. Every single dish of the six I recently had the pleasure of dining on were a study in layers and texture. Sweet complimented savory. Earthy and bright co-mingled. Crunchy partnered with creamy. Surprises came in every dish. Not one was lackluster.

I could wax eloquent about the merits of each, some served on stone labs that kept them warm… but the menu changes frequently and this article would grow tedious. So I will simply say: go, and be prepared to be blown away.

Funky, Fun Latin: BISTRO SABOR, 1126 1st near Main, Napa, 707-252-0555

Bistro Sabor’s menu initially appears Mexican, but is a mix of Latino cultures in a new downtown Napa. The space is hip with brightly painted, graffiti-lined walls, while the staff couldn’t be more helpful, particularly for order-at-the-counter casualness.

 

On a Saturday night, they cleared tables out for 10pm salsa dancing, frequented by many in the local Latino community. Beer and wine keep it festive (wish they had a hard liquor license to serve tequila). The food? Fresh, satisfying and all under $15. A two taco special of Grilled Sea Bass ($11) is impeccably flaky, topped with scallion cilantro slaw and a pineapple habanero salsa. Even accompanying rice and black beans are a notch above the usual. A Rock crab quesadilla ($10) is less creative but warm and cheesy, while pupusas, pozole, blood orange avocado salad, and lomo saltado exhibit a range from El Salvador to Peru.

It’s playful Latin street food with quality ingredients. A win for Napa in cheap eats.

Dim Sum with a side of Magic: DIM SUM CHARLIE’S, 728 First Street near Soscol (look for the Airstream trailer), Napa, 707-815-2355

 

I’ll tell you right now: you can get better, cheaper dim sum at dozens of places in SF. In fact, for the nearly $7 Dim Sum Charlie’s charges for a mere four dumplings, I can get at least twelve dumplings and buns at favorite city spots.

Why go? First off, there’s not much dim sum in Napa and theirs decent, though far from memorable. Some have commented on the could-be-perceived-as-racist menu listings like “ten dolla make you holla”. But the setting is the one reason to go.

 

Dim sum and noodles are served out of a classic Airstream trailer (that I’ve seen before, but loving all things retro, do not tire of). What’s different is the trailer setting under a canopy of lights in a dirt lot strewn with picnic tables and a campfire. Rollicking tunes make it feel like a backyard party, a bit like camping in retro-kitsch style. With dim sum.

It doesn’t really matter what you order. Bring friends. Pull up to a picnic table or fireside with hot  sauce and chopsticks, singing along to Beastie Boys as you slurp noodles and fill up on pork buns.

Coffee Lovers: YOUNTVILLE COFFEE CABOOSE, 6523 Washington Street, Yountville

You’ll not go wrong with coffee and pastries at the original Bouchon Bakery across the street. But when that line is unbearable (or even if it isn’t), I’m delighted to hit up a locals coffee go-to: Yountville Coffee Caboose. Yes, it’s actually in a train caboose off Washington Street. They often feature Bay Area coffees like Ritual, brewed strong, robust and with proper crema.

Local’s Breakfast: GRACE’S TABLE, 1400 2nd Street at Franklin, Napa, 707-226-6200

Grace’s Table has its minor missteps: their raved about skillet cornbread with lavender butter ($6) was dry and rather flavorless. And $10-18 entrees for breakfast pushes a little high for a casual, neighborhood restaurant. But as an open air, corner restaurant with uber-sweet waitstaff and soothing decor, it’s a welcome brunch stop.

Quiche of the day ($12 with salad or soup – can also be had a la carte) was the stand-out: fluffy and light, the crust almost reminded me of Tartine in its buttery flakiness. Mini bagels with house-cured salmon and cream cheese ($10) are playful approach, though the bagels are not exceptional (isn’t that ever the case outside of NY?)

 

Grace’s is a pleasant place to start your day with coffee and a newspaper.

 

To-go Breakfast: C CASA TAQUERIA, 610 1st Street (near Soscol Ave.), 707-226-7700, Napa

C Casa, a worthy newer addition to Oxbow Public Market, works for a cheap breakfast. With grass-fed beef, free-range chicken, sustainable fish and local produce, it’s a forward-thinking taqueria, yet maintains authenticity of flavor.

A breakfast taco brimming with over-medium egg and chorizo ($4.50), is meaty and satisfying first thing in the morning. Also stuffed in there? Black beans, avocado, pico de gallo, garlic aioli and cilantro.

Ok, One Splurge: AD HOC, 6476 Washington Street at Mission, 707-944-2487

 

At $52 per person without anything to drink (another $39 for wine pairings), Ad Hoc is quite expensive, though it is the-one-and-only Thomas Keller’s “casual” venture. However, I’d actually be annoyed eating inside where too many kids (at this price? ) and noisy din make it less than appealing at that price. The few tables out on a tiny patio, however, are idyllic.

As is the food in the four-course dinner. One appetizer, a main, a cheese course and dessert: all served family-style and impeccably prepared with ingredients from their cheery garden behind the restaurant. No substitutes – you eat whatever is on the daily menu.

 

This is alright when you get a salad as a beautiful as a recent mix of lettuces, pickled haricots verts (green beans), toasted pine nuts, red radishes and shaved asparagus. Dotted with green garlic buttermilk dressing and King Trumpet mushrooms, it was far more gratifying than it sounded. Ditto the added course of Ivory Salmon ($15 supplement) baked in phyllo pastry, drizzled with porcini cream, accented by fresh, white corn. Liberty Farm’s Duck Breast was actually a little too much for two people, but deftly prepared and served with a bowl of chickpea stew gentle with curry. We finished with strawberry shortcake on biscuits, slathered in lemon curd.

At roughly $34 per person, their Sunday brunch is the way to do Ad Hoc from another, slightly more affordable, angle.

HEALDSBURG (Sonoma County)

SHIMO, 241 Healdsburg Avenue at Matheson, 707.433.6000, dinner only

Not even weeks after I dined there, Shimo changed from its high-priced steakhouse menu to a noodle house. For the sake of (recent) history, here’s my recap and photos of my steak experience. Though I think the casual space is better suited to a noodle house, there are dishes I’d love to see stay on the menu (can we please keep those biscuits?)

Shimo refers to the term “shimo furi”, meaning frost, which is what they call the snow-like white marbling in a fine cut of beef. This Japanese temple to beef is surprisingly casual, even noisy, for a restaurant so expensive. But in the hands of Douglas Keane, chef of one of the country’s highest-rated restaurants (and a favorite of mine), Cyrus, the food is worthwhile.

Maybe the most divine thing on the menu? Cheddar Parmesan Biscuits ($6) come in a mini-cast iron skillet with six flaky pillows of biscuit goodness. Purely addictive. “Shrimp Cocktail” ($13) gets a refreshing twist as plump shrimp over horseradish pudding and greens, drizzled with tomato syrup.

Beef Tataki Tartare ($18) is silky mixed with egg yolk and soy garlic yuzu sauce. Yuzu imbues the rare meat with tart, Summery spirit. Okonomiyaki ($9) is an exemplary version of one of my favorite Japanese dishes made with mountain yams..

Creamed coconut kale ($9) is a winning side and a different presentation for kale. I’d take this over creamed spinach any day. Wild mushrooms ($10) are savory and butter laden, made up of three ‘shrooms: shiitake, crimini, maitake.

And what about the steak? It’s astronomically priced, even for steak, but thankfully it’s expertly executed. I splurged on the $20 per ounce Australian Wagyu Strip Loin, trying it in both presentations: chori and raw as sashimi. It’s marbled, glory, to be sure, but I also had the second “cheapest” steak: Bone-in Filet ($56 – $28 per person but you’re required to order it for two minimum). It’s 24 oz (or 12 oz per person) and at medium rare is also impeccable and a much better value than the wagyu.

MEDLOCK AMES TASTING ROOM, 3487 Alexander Valley Road at Sausal, 707.431.8845

One of the best places for cocktails in Sonoma County is Medlock Ames’ Alexander Valley Bar. Though a winery, arrive after 5pm daily walking around to the backside of the wine tasting room.

You’ll find a casually retro bar, touches of Prohibition and the Old West mingling with vintage photo booth and a bar lined with herbs and citrus.

Cocktails (all $9) like Verdant Virtue/Vice exemplify the garden-fresh mix from Medlock’s own backyard: Hendrick’s Gin and Green Chartreuse are amplified with mint, basil, rosemary, cucumber, lime for a refreshing beauty.

A Nocino Manhattan plays heavier and muskier with Buck Bourbon, Carpano Antica and the nuttiness of Nocino walnut liqueur. It’s a little too musky but offers a nice, boozy Wine Country imbibment.

Pascual is finer in theory… the balance seems slightly off (sour, watery), but it’s a spritzy, spicy cocktail representing their garden bounty. Arette blanco (a fine choice and one of my Tequila, Mexico distillery visits) is dotted with serrano peppers, cilantro, fresh lemon, lime and agave nectar. Better balance and it would be lovely.

Even if cocktails aren’t all executed with balance, this is an exciting stop with charming setting, Old World rusticity, and cocktails that feel local as they do classic.

OAKLAND

Drink

A couple recent Oakland nights included drinks at the relaxed, new Dogwood (with decent but not stand-out cocktails or atmosphere), and the following return visits:

ADESSO, OAKLAND (4395 Piedmont Avenue, Oakland, 94611, 510-601-0305) - You last heard me talk about Adesso in the Guardian and here in 2009. It has been one of Oakland’s best bars since opening with a truly killer happy hour.

On a recent return, I was served the earthy, subtle Scottish Witch ($10): Old Raj 110 Gin, Strega, house coriander beet syrup, lemon, with an orange twist. A house Barrel-aged Martini is made with Karlsson’s Gold vodka, a sophisticated, layered vodka martini.

A simple, gorgeous dessert was a special for the day: Citrus Granita ($10) with biscotti and a pour of Gran Classico to douse the granita with. Sigh. Sheer goodness.

WINE on PIEDMONT, OAKLAND (4183 Piedmont Avenue, 510-595-9463) -   One of the best liquor stores I’ve seen in the East Bay is Wine on Piedmont. It’s small but well-curated from all over the globe.

Though wine is the predominant focus, the small spirits section is impressive. Locally-made favorites are well represented from Old World Spirits to Germain Robin. Proprietors Brian Goehry and Susan Sieggreen’s eye for the best means you’ll hardly find a throwaway selection on the shelves. Connoisseurs will be pleased but the proprietors’ knowledge means the novice can also find new treasures.

FOOD

HIBISCUS, OAKLAND (1745 San Pablo Ave at 18th, 510-444-2626) – Hibiscus has settled into downtown Oakland’s dining scene as a destination restaurant for creative Caribbean food. I wish there were more experimenting as Exec Chef Sarah Kirnon is with island flavors of Barbados and Jamaica.

It’s a pleasure to return to Hibiscus, where I find I’m still a fan of the salty excess of Salt Cod & Ackee ($8.50), hot with scotch bonnet peppers. Cool off with house-made Sorrel ($3.50) or a Leeward Mai Tai ($10): Couer de Canne Agricole rum, Cointreau, lime, orgeat (almond syrup), orange peel.

This visit, my love is heaped upon Dungeness Crab Cornmeal Porridge ($18). Creamy, grits-like porridge is laced with chunks of crabmeat, butternut squash, carrots, King Richard leeks, and Bird’s Eye chili for a little heat. Sophisticated comfort food, this is the one I’m craving again.

Vegetarians aren’t left out with dishes like Kirnon’s Market Plate ($16). This particular night it was chana (garbanzo beans), braising greens and potato in a flavor-rich cauliflower curry, with a mini-radish salad and gorgeous tamarind sauce.

Plantains are grilled to perfection in garlic oil ($4), while a starter of Phoulourie ($7.50) shows playful possibilities: split pea and wild nettle fritters are bound together in cornmeal and flour, with kumquats, arugula, shado beni providing contrast.