All Spice's enchanting cottage

Intriguing bites and openings in other parts of the Bay Area? All Spice is a new, upscale Indian restaurant in San Mateo. Though still working out kinks with some dishes not yet fully realized, the space is romantic and service engaging in a cottage I adored in its former iteration.

Oakland’s Camino is a space I love for different reasons: rustic, glowing, like a hall of an old English home with modern-day spirit. Returning after a year’s absence yielded an imperfect meal with sometimes small portions of dishes I’ve tasted better versions of elsewhere. Still, the overall package holds merit, particularly the drinks.

San Mateo

All Spice's front dining room

ALL SPICE - The magic of the enchanted cottage housing All Spice, enhanced by delightful husband-wife owners,  Sachin Chopra and Shoshana Wolff, is truly the highlight of this Indian gem. Promise radiates in almost every aspect, while service is professionally warm. I anticipate seeing how they evolve.

Without a liquor license yet, I partook of unusual drink offerings like sweet tea masala-infused water ($2), grapefruit-rosemary punch ($5), and, my favorite, a light but creamy passion fruit mint lassi ($2.50).

Farro Chaat

A starter of lavender cumin scallops ($12), may not have been mind-blowing but the trio of scallops were generous in size, while bacon bits over black cardamom pureed potato are inspired accents. Farro Chaat ($8) is aesthetic, shaped in a circle of wheat over purple Peruvian potatoes and cauliflower with chaat masala vinaigrette. Despite it’s beauty, it was served cold, tasting just a little bland.

Bacon-wrapped rack of lamb ($23) in sundried tomato red chile sauce with mushroom marmalade was a solid, savory dish. Poached black cod ($23) was a little salty but had the right texture while rutabaga puree and spiced southern greens underneath were downright addictive.

Chili Mango Bread Pudding

Chili mango bread pudding ($7) with ginger creme anglaise disappointed without a hint of the chili I was hoping for and dried mango bits rather than fresh, warm mango. Presentation stole the show with blackberries dotting the surface. A few tweaks and it could be memorable.

Ice cream trio

Faring better was a trio of house-made ice creams ($6). A bed of nuts and dried fruits under the scoops were a bit of a taste and texture distraction from the flavors of coconut curry, lemon thyme, chocolate anise, but overall it’s a winning finish, particularly the anise kick of the dark chocolate.

Oakland

CAMINO - The main stand-outs at my last visit to Camino were the small but well-prepared drinks. A simple Cocchi Americano on the rocks with a twist of orange ($7) is fine way to get the appetite flowing – a sweetly bitter aperitif. I can’t help but love a Camino Negroni ($9), made with with Gran Classico instead of Campari. This has been done all over SF for awhile, yet remains a lush version of a Negroni.

Pig's head & trotters at Camino

Mezcal works twice: light and fluffy with egg white, lemon, honey and rosemary in Mezcal Drink ($10); smoky and slate-like in the Oaxacan Old-Fashioned ($10 – reposado, mezcal, agave, Angostura bitters). It all flows with dishes like grilled rabbit and pig’s head with pig trotter fritters,  sauerkraut and fresh horseradish ($11), the best dish of the night.

View from the Long Meadow Ranch winery and caves

Long Meadow Ranch, St. Helena

Long Meadow Ranch Winery does it all in Wine Country: grass-fed beef, heirloom fruits and vegetables, eggs from their chickens, lush olive oils, and, of course, wines. Seeking to grow everything used in their restaurant and winery, they continue to push boundaries, currently exploring a dairy and cheese-making.

Feeley's first course, crab & grapefruit salad

I’ve written a few times about Farmstead, their restaurant, helmed by delightful, hilarious Chef Sheamus Feeley, including it in my top new openings of 2010. A return press visit included a jeep ride over dirt lanes on Mayacamas Mountains through vineyards and olive tree groves to tour their winery, caves, and olive oil press.

LMR's jeep

We finished with a three-course lunch at Logan-Ives House, a restored Gothic revival farmhouse built in 1874 that houses their wine and olive oil tasting room.  Feeley’s heartwarming-yet-gourmet cooking showcases his Southern roots. We tried many LMR wines, the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon ($42) being their most popular, though I preferred a crisp 2009 Sauvignon Blanc ($18) and lush E.J. Church Cabernet ($85).

LMR's winery made from the earth tunneled out of their wine caves

My favorite Feeley quote of the day was as he spoke of ingredients from their farm, expressing his love for celery as an under-appreciated vegetable. He has plenty of ideas for it, like a celery sorbet with Campari and grapefruit bitters (sign me up!) “But…”, he said,  “we’re not here to talk about celery.”

Though a pricey $150, the experience I had is available to any visitor, along with more affordable tastings and tours. And you can always visit Farmstead for those grass-fed burgers on your next jaunt up to Napa.

LMR's vines with winter's radiant mustard flowers

LMR's Logan-Ives House & Tasting Room

Chris Hall, LMR's VP and son of family owners, shows us their imported Italian olive press

View of Mayacamas Mountains from Long Meadow Ranch vineyards

Preview of Gaumenkitzel, Berkeley

German china lines shelves behind the counter

Gaumenkitzel jams line the shelves

GAUMENKITZEL, meaning ‘delight for the taste buds’, opens later this week (if all goes as planned) in an open, sunny space on San Pablo Ave. in Berkeley. Owner Anja Voth brings restaurant and patisserie experience from Hamburg and Berlin. Her husband Kai Flache constructed and designed the restaurant with his local firm. They operate as a gracious, complimentary team.

A rustic wood ceiling, huge windows and skylight illuminate the yellows, whites, reds and oranges of the clean, modern room. A spare collection of German china and ceramic dolls line the shelves, adding a homey touch. While the main portion of the room is eat-in, one can order take-out or baked goods. A section to the left of the entrance offers stools and countertops for a quick meal.

Linzer Torte

A pastry chef bakes fresh breads and pastries in-house, including a delicate Linzer Torte with red currant jam. Anja operates as chef with assistance from a chef who worked 15 years at Oakland’s now-defunct Citron. I stopped in for a preview lunch, savoring baked goods, beet salad, an addictive caramel custard, and beef roulade with braised red cabbage and creamy mashed potatoes. The beef roulade is Anja’s mother’s recipe, rolled up with pickles and onions, while red cabbage is equal parts apple with a tart, spiced kick.

Luxurious caramel pudding

A breakfast menu lasts all morning with items like German porridge, house-baked rolls, cold cuts, müsli. There’s afternoon tea (2-4:30pm), while lunch and supper entrees cover the gamut from salmon with rhubarb compote to wild mushrooms with spaetzle. They also make their own seasonal jams, like a pleasantly tart/bitter Meyer lemon marmalade I sampled. Menu prices had not yet been finalized on the menus I previewed, but it will be affordable, mid-range.

Beef Roulade

The joy here is dishes with a predominantly North German focus, a rarity as local offerings are typically of the South German kind. Influences from Anja and Kai’s port city hometown of Hamburg are showcased, like curry (poached fish with curry sauce) and fresh fish (from Monterey Fish Market). Expect authentic German, reliant on local and seasonal ingredients, prepared with care from a couple involved in every aspect of the place.

2121 San Pablo Ave, Berk.
Daily 6am-6:30pm
www.gaumenkitzel.net

Gaumenkitzel's sunny, spacious interior

Best Restaurant Openings 2010,

Bay Area

In Top Tastes I list the top ten new restaurant openings of the year in San Francisco. Here I list an additional four best new Bay Area openings: one in the South Bay, two in the East Bay, one in Wine Country. In the midst of Oakland’s continued proliferation as a dining hotspot and the new downtown Napa reign of celebrity chefs from Tyler Florence to Morimoto, here are a few that rose above, in alphabetical order.

BAUME, Palo Alto
In the realm of all-senses-engaged gastronomy temples like Chicago’s Alinea or the whimsical decadence of Jose Andres The Bazaar in LA, San Francisco is shockingly lacking. We have the talent and creativity here of the best food cities in the world. But it seems at times there can be a fear of getting too experimental. Thankfully, in 2010 Chef Bruno Chemel (formerly of Chez TJ) opened Baume in a non-descript, ’70’s-looking Palo Alto building.

Baume's magical dessert spread

Yes, it’s crazy expensive (tasting menus), special occasion dining, but it stands out with well-orchestrated service and a simple but striking dining room of elegant orange and warm browns. You are teased with ingredients, like liquid nitrogen, curry, leek, seaweed, endive, then await the presentation like a gift. The best part is that Baume is not merely molecular showmanship… dishes are rich with flavor and heart. Don’t miss Chef Bruno’s 62-degree sous-vide egg. I had it with wild mushroom and Noilly Prat dry vermouth foam paired with shots of fresh celery and lime juice punctuated by roasted rosemary stalks. Currently, he’s serving the egg with lichee, lilikoi, espresso, chocolate. I’m intrigued.

GATHER, Berkeley
A December 2009 opening, Gather is the best thing to come along in Berkeley in ages. It reads typical Bay Area at first glance: local, sustainable, organic everything, from meats and veggies to spirits, wine and beer. The rounded corner room, with bustling, open space in full view of the kitchen is holistically casual and urban.

Gather's artful vegan 'charcuterie'

And, yes, everything you have heard about the raved-about vegan “charcuterie” is true. Decidedly non-vegetarian, I marvel at this artwork array of vegetables on a wood slab, five delicately-prepared (and delicious) combinations for $16. You might have roasted baby beets with shaved fennel, dill, blood orange, horseradish almond puree and pistachio as one item, then King Trumpet mushroom crudo with parsnip-pine nut sea palm risotto as another. Exec Chef Sean Baker and team do meat right, too. Whether sausage pizza with pork belly and chiles, or house-cured ham topped with crescenza cheeze and cardoon-walnut salsa, carnivores will leave happy. Gather displays an ethos and presentation one can only dream of being a standard everywhere.

PLUM, Oakland

Plum's "snacks"

Easily the best new opening in Oakland in 2010,, Daniel Patterson’s long-anticipated Plum delivers his impeccable technique in heartwarming food. Despite communal seating on uncomfortable wood stools, one is warmed by skillfully prepared food under $20. Chef Charlie Parker recently took the reigns, serving impeccably nuanced soups like ham hock & brussels sprouts or turnip apple soup with miso. Deviled eggs benefit from caperberry tarragon relish, while a rich beef cheek and oxtail burger welcomes the contrast of accompanying Autumn pickles. Patterson’s power continues to be used for gourmet good, and this time Oakland is the recipient.

FARMSTEAD, St. Helena
Farmstead may not be the most exciting restaurant to open in Wine Country in 2010 but I find it among the most satisfying. Part of Long Meadow Ranch, a welcome package of winery, poultry farm, herb garden, grass-fed beef ranch, and olive press, it’s in a modern, converted barn with fireplace, tractors and chairs on the outdoor patio. Inside it’s funky light fixtures, cavernous ceilings and leather booths.

Potted Pig at Farmstead

Their grass-fed beef is, in a word, exemplary. It makes for a decent steak, but my money goes towards the meltingly-good cheeseburger. On a house potato bun, it’s lathered with addictive mustard (they don’t skimp on the horseradish), cheddar and arugula. Order “potted” pig: tender, shredded pig packed in a mason jar with a layer of lard on top, served with toasts and that fabulous mustard. Another humane, locally-sourced restaurant, Farmstead brings a casual playfulness I don’t see often enough in Wine Country.

PLUM, Oakland

Plum's interior

Easily the best new opening in Oakland in 2010, Daniel Patterson’s long-anticipated Plum delivers his impeccable technique in heartwarming food.

After a handful of visits both for dinner and lunch (and a preview dinner back in September), I come away with a sense of being enveloped, not by the communal seating or uncomfortable bar stools, but by the warmth of food wearing a simple guise yet prepared with a craftsman’s skill. Lunch is just a few bucks less than dinner, while everything is under $20 (note that 16% service charge is added to your bill already so tip accordingly).

I have eaten at Plum when both Patterson and chef Charlie Parker (of Bonny Doon and Manresa), were behind the stove. The pass-off of chef duties to Parker appears seamless.

Ham Hock/Brussels Sprout Soup

Soups are a impeccable and nuanced. At lunch, the option for 1/2 an order ($4.50-$6) is welcome, especially as large bowls are hefty ($9-12). Favorite soups include Ham Hock & Brussels Sprouts, rich with heirloom beans, onion, turnip, and lardo. On the creamy side (though silky with puree, not cream) is Turnip Apple Soup with miso and a dollop of sweet pepper cream. On a rainy night, I could have left happy with that.

Grilled Cheese at lunch

At lunch, Grilled Cheese ($10) is filling with creamy mountain cheese, dandelion salsa verde, an addition of fabulously meaty bacon and a side of Sweet Potato Chips. Beef Cheek & Oxtail Burger ($13 lunch; $15 dinner) is more molded, braised beef patty than actual burger. It’s ultra-rich, though not overwhelming in size. Autumn pickles come as a side but I add them on for a needed contrast to the burger’s fatty richness.

Deviled eggs

At dinner, “Snacks” ($4) kicj the appetite into gear. Try dehydrated potato strips reminiscent of chicharrones or Deviled Eggs with caperberry tarragon relish. Though the Cauliflower dish ($12) was a small in portion, it was gracefully prepared over bulghur with almonds and dandelion salsa verde.

Desserts are straightforward but two left a sweet impression: an ice cream special of Toasted Almond Apple ($6 for three mini-scoops), subtle on the apple.

Beef Heart & Oxtail Burger

The second, a mason glass of Buttermilk Panna Cotta ($7) layered with quince compote, thyme and a crispy brittle.

The wine list pleases and though only listed by glass, flask or bottle, our waiter graciously offered half pours allowing us to sample more. The best pour I had was Sean Thackrey’s 2009 Pleiades ($12 by the glass), a gorgeous blend of Sangiovese, Pinot, Viognier, Petite Sirah, Mourvedre, pleasant with the burger, perfect on its own.

BRANCHES, Ukiah

Branches wine cellar

On a beautifully moody, rainy weekend this November, I trekked up to brand new Branches in the gorgeous farmland and vineyards of Ukiah that were aflame with red, orange and yellow leaves this time of year.

Branches is a chophouse/restaurant, bustling fireside pub, bakery and butcher all rolled into one large space. Unusual for these parts, it was already mobbed two weeks into opening and I am sure will continue to be.

The cocktail menu reads like a list of the usual pop culture fare with fruity, Stoli and Absolut vodka-type offerings, but tasting through a range of drinks I’d normally never order delivered unexpected balance. They got it right with more tart than sweet on the vodka cocktails, and despite horrid neon maraschino cherries in some, they used Luxardo cherries in their decent Manhattan.

Branches cocktails

A winner is the bright, crisp Elderflower Basil Martini ($10): Hendricks Gin, St. Germain elderflower, dry vermouth, fresh basil, lemon twist. The wine list heavies on California but you’ll find some Italian, French, Spanish, Australian, Oregon, and more, in the mix.

It’d be a great night with glasses of wine and a round of their generously-portioned appetizers (come to think of it, everything here comes in huge portions!)

Philly Cheese Steak Roll

A Philly Cheesesteak Spring Roll ($7.75) is a fun, lightly fried take on sushi with prime rib, cheese, onions, and roasted red pepper dip.  My favorite may be the Mud Bug (crawfish) & Vegetable Fritters ($8.75), fried, hearty fritters with chipotle dip. Maybe it’s just my penchant for mud bugs, but this one satisfied.

Wild Boar Chili

Smoked Wild Boar Chili (cup $4.50, bowl $6.75) was heartwarming on a chilly, Fall night, while horseradish cream, cheddar cheese, and onions on top made it decadent. No shock, another comforting, rich dish is their Mac n’ Cheese Gratin ($10.50) in a skillet with fire-roasted Anaheim chilies, aged white cheddar and asiago crust.

Maple Bourbon Baby Back Ribs

While the pasta I tasted didn’t overwhelm me (there’s a whole menu section of pastas), they are solid. I had more fun with gigantic entrees like Maple Bourbon BBQ Baby Back Ribs ($25.75). A row of ribs gleams across the massive plate with warm cheddar cheese cornbread shaped like a tall muffin, baked beans and a killer blue cheese slaw.

Chandeliers made of branches, naturally

I’d never had a “black and blue” steak before but here I tried a steak charred on the outside, raw in the middle: Aged NY Steak (12 oz. $31) came with cabernet butter and two sides (plenty of hearty, classic options including baked potatoes or garlic broccoli). The char gave it a welcome grit, while the inside was tender and full of flavor. It may not have been the best steak ever but it was superior to some I’ve had in the city in recent months at$15-$30 more.

Aged NY Steak

Branches is ideal for groups and families with an inviting atmosphere and convivial spirit. It’s going to (and should) do well in these parts as it stands out from local offerings. For those journeying up it’s a breakfast, lunch and dinner stop where you will literally feast and gorge for a fraction of what you’d pay in the city for this amount of food.

BERKELEY

Locanda da Eva

LOCANDA DA EVA – It’s interesting to see a food writer open his own restaurant… dining out every night (and often lunch, too) gives you a unique perspective from which to assess what elements create the most magic in atmosphere, while it inevitably imparts harsh comparison standards.

Robert Lauriston, who’s all over Chowhound boards and used to write for the SF Weekly, opened Locanda da Eva in what was the beloved Zax Tavern space with chef Huw Thornton (formerly of SPQR) in the kitchen.

Jackie Patterson's cocktails (L: Temezcal; R: Kingston Old Fashioned)

I must admit, I wearied of yet another gourmet pizza opening (even as I never weary of eating good pizza) with antipasti, pasta, etc… and the Berkeley location means I couldn’t visit multiple times and still write this within any reasonable time frame of its opening. So my initial caveat is that this is based on one visit.

I was struck by the glow of woods and lighting as I walked through the bar but found the dining area a little chain-like in appearance. Ultra-dim lighting (making photos difficult to take) eased some of the blandness, casting a warm glow, as did a welcome jazz soundtrack.

Crispy Pig Trotters

Things accelerated the moment I got a drink. The lovely Jackie Patterson created the cocktail menu and it shows. A small, but thoughtful selection covers the range from Campari to rye. Temezcal ($9) is a smoky little imbibement of Siete Leguas Silver Tequila and Benesin Mezcal balanced with St. Germain and Dolin Blanc Vermouth. I was particularly impressed with Jackie’s Kingston Old Fashioned ($9). Another twist on one of my favorite classics, I feared it might be sweet with a combo of two rums (Appleton Extra and Smith & Cross). Not so. Rounded out with cane syrup, Angostura and orange bitters, it had a tinge of molasses sweetness but was spicy, earthy, round. Another, please.

Pork & Fennel Sausage Pizza

Then there’s Lauriston’s obsessive, detailed wine list. Our server told me he’s fine to have someone take it home if they wished. I did. Not one selection is an afterthought, with thoughtful explanations and details. While he is not a sommelier, his love for vino shows in a predominantly Italian selection plus some French, Argentinian, and West Coast wines.

Chicken & Ricotta Meatballs

Starters were strong, especially Pork Trotter Fritters ($9) with roasted corn and Poblano peppers, one of the better trotter dishes I’ve had this year. Also liked tender Beef Tongue ($9) with radishes, pickled onions and a perky tomatillo salsa brightening the meat.

Fried Corn on the Cob

On the pasta front, al dente house pastas satisfied, particularly Spaghetti ($16) with walnut pesto, cherry tomatoes, Pecorino Romano. I also sampled Strozzapreti ($16), rich with chiles, lamb sausage, roasted eggplant, tomatoes, ricotta salata. But I unexpectedly preferred Pork & Fennel Sausage (house made) Pizza ($14). It certainly isn’t the best pizza I’ve ever had but was utterly satisfying and savory topped with roasted gypsy peppers, Grana Padano, red onions, and Robiola cheese.

Pork Loin Saltimbocca ($19) is solid, wrapped in La Quercia prosciutto with a side mostarda of nectarines, currants, radicchio. Even better? Braised Chicken & Ricotta Meatballs ($18) with kale, onions, Grana Padano, spiced with sumac and cumin. The meatballs are soft, dissolving with a mild, meaty finish.

Locanda's Bar

An unusual and fun dish, and oddly enough, may have been my favorite here, was a seasonal side that is now off the menu: Fried Brentwood Corn on the Cob ($6) with a salsa verde aioli-style dip. Crispy, juicy, sweet, it takes the vegetable in a playful direction.

I went for the most popular dessert: Peanut Butter & Chocolate Chip Cookies ($8), filled with peanut butter gelato, bitter chocolate ganache, and sea salt. It’s as pleasing, peanuty and creamy as it sounds.

Our waiter’s recommend of a Polenta Torte ($8) soaked in chamomile grappa liqueur, covered in nectarines, blackberries and citrus mascarpone, was a straightforward, pure, sophisticated finish.