This issue’s Top Tastes in DRINK

An unforgettable night tasting Highland Park scotches: 18, 25, 30, 40 year & 1968 Vintage

SPIRITS

•  For someone who’s every day is a taste adventure, I will say a private Russell’s Room tasting at Bourbon & Branch of Highland Park scotches was one of the most memorable I’ve ever been privileged to be a part of. There are only two such tastings going on in the country: here and in New York. I felt lucky to be one of 9 around the table (and only 2 women – scotch remains predominantly a man’s world?) tasting HP’s awesome 18, 25, 30 and 40 year scotches. But the centerpiece was a just-released, $3999 per bottle, limited-edition 1968 vintage. At Whiskyfest last year, HP’s 30 year was among my favorites. To take it two steps further (the 40 year alone is a special, $2000 per bottle imbibement), was my Scotch dream come true.

HP brand ambassador, Martin Daraz, is a charming, hilarious host. With pairings from cheese guru, Wil Edwards, of SF Cheese School, it was unforgettable. Each whisky grew lighter in color the greater the age. The ‘68 vintage defined “smooth”, with a gentle sweetness, refined toasted oak notes, and hints of spice. I don’t know how else to describe the finish other than that it keeps going. One layer unfolds after the other… as I was in conversation after our last glass, wave after wave of flavor continued to roll over my tongue. Sigh.

COCKTAILS

Leblonmonaut at Bartenders' Masquerade Ball

• Thanks in large part to Drink PR pro, Debbie Rizzo, a 2/21 Leblon Carnaval Masquerade Ball at Rickhouse was one awesome party. Intimate, festive but not overcrowded, we took over the bar with carnaval masks, live music from local Diego’s Umbrella, and guest bartenders the likes of Philip Ward (of Death & Co. and Mayahuel in NYC) and Misty Kalkofen from Boston’s Drink). Rickhouse staff were holding their own with lovely Leblon cocktails, like Kelli Bratvold’s Leblon & Prosper: Leblon cachaca, lime, grapefruit, maraschino, allspice dram. Ward hit both sides of the spectrum with a smoky, mezcal-based Leblonmonaut, and a sweeter Leblon James with pomegranate molasses, mint and lime.

Congrats, Josh Harris, one of the two finalists, going to NY for nationals; international winners head to New Zealand

• On 2/22, 42 Below Cocktail Competition at the Regency Center was nicely spread out in two large rooms, plenty of space to taste and view bartenders make New Zealand vodka creations. It takes talent to bring layers of flavor out of vodka and this group delivered. Certainly, there were other spirits mixed in and some real creativity going on set to a rowdy, live rockabilly/punk band. Congrats to Michael Callahan of Gitane, who created a fresh, aperitif-like concoction using, among other things, lemon and fennel root, and to Josh Harris, of 15 Romolo, for once again pulling a win with his nuanced Bridge to Terabithia (loved that book as a kid), which contains everything from his own fennel syrup to 42 Below’s Kiwi Vodka, dusted with masala chai.

Eating bees on Joe Parrilli's Waggle Dance

I loved straight-from-the-orchard apple freshness of Spruce’s Brandon Clements’ cocktail – his answer (or welcome antidote?) to Apple-tini requests. I commend the use of cherry jalapenos in Chase Williamson’s (of 21st Amendment) Wha Rua (“42″ in Maori). My favorite was also the biggest adventure: Tavern at Lark Creek’s Joseph Parrilli’s Waggle Dance (name inspired by bee action) is a floral/sweet creation of vodka, Fever Tree ginger beer, wildflower bitters, Wedderspoon Manuka raw honey, topped with sugar-crusted, gold-dusted bees. Yes, bumble bees (stinger removed). I dove right in an ate one. Cute, crunchy, without much flavor, it’s kind of like eating a grasshopper, like I’ve had in Southeast Asia.

WINE

Sayonara, Crushpad!

•  A 2/25 event accurately named Around the World in 80 Sips, doubled as a last hurrah for Crushpad before it leaves SF, moving north to Wine Country. There was a nice, international representation here, in a reasonable, well-paced format of 80: more than enough to try but not so many as to make it overwhelming. Though quite sweet, it was fascinating trying dessert wines from Israel (Rimon) and Thailand (Radee). As ever, Italian wines were a pleasure, particularly the reasonably priced ($19 a bottle) Moziese, a Nero d’Avola from Sicily, and a lovely Prosecco, La Tordera (also $19).

Top Tastes in DRINK

1/20 - Science of Cocktails at the Exploratorium

WINE

New cocktail bar, The Residence

• Oh, 2006 Puligny-Montrachet, you are such a gorgeous Chardonnay… thankfully, RN74 serves you by the glass.

• I was delighted by the drinkability of Angove’s Nine Vines Rose, a South Australian wine that came across my desk. A blend of  70% Grenache/30% Shiraz, it’s zesty but rich, with spicy cherry notes, light but with satisfying depth. The winemakers are doing some wine pairing dinners soon: one on 2/24 at Betelnut, the other on 3/24 at Scalas’s, with 30% of ticket sales going straight to Project Open Hand.

BEER

•  Delarosa may be in the Marina, but they’ve got some fine cocktails and beer (see my take on their food): sipped a complex Maredsous with fruit and white pepper notes and a bitter Drake’s IPA with strong passion fruit aromas and toffee malt taste.

COFFEE

My new ‘hood (Upper Haight) is sadly lacking in fine coffee – if only I could get Blue Bottle to go any time from Magnolia. But Central Coffee Tea & Spice is not far from me and as a locals go-to since 1995, they serve fair trade, robust, well-prepared coffee in a dingy but welcoming environment.

Three-month old Matching Half Cafe is a few blocks further, a longer walk from home, but it does me right with fabulous Verve coffee prepared as it should be (drip for a cup; cappuccinos with proper foam).

SPIRITS

Lasanta

•  A private Glenmorangie party at Bourbon on Branch on 1/18, offered a rare foray into B&B’s basement for a taste of the entire line of Glemorangie scotches and a talk from its master distiller, truly charming Scotsman, Dr. Bill Lumsden. Sampling the new Sonnalta PX before it was widely available was a pleasure – a well-balanced scotch. My greatest delight came in sipping 12-year Lasanta (“warmth and passion” in Gaelic), a spicy blend matured in bourbon casks, then in Oloroso sherry casks, with toffee notes and sherry sweetness. A close second for me is Quinta Ruban, also aged 12 years in bourbon casks, then extra-matured in ruby port casks. A little smoother than the spicy Lasanta, its walnut and orange notes are fine companions to hints of port.

ROOT

•  ROOT – This new liquor comes from Pennsylvania and though unlike anything out there, it takes it’s cues from as far as back as the 1700’s when colonists were first introduced to root tea (with sassafras, sarsaparilla, wintergreen birch bark, among other things) by Native Americans who drank it as an herbal remedy, all the way to all-American root beer. Art In the Age has created something unique with the complexity of that colonial root tea (minus sassafras root, which was banned here in 1960), plus notes of root beer and a whisper of spearmint. It’s not sweet or thick, nor is it “flavored” liqueur. This is a strong, vegetal spirit… an adult’s dream of root beer with an herbal body.

COCKTAILS

5:15 to Bangkok at Hum/ Perfect Puree event

• On 1/18, at a private party for Hum Liqueur and The Perfect Puree at Luce, Chicago bartender extraordinaire (of Nacional 27), Adam Seger, tended bar. Straight Hum is syrupy-sweet (so I like it better in a cocktail), but love its emphasis on cardamom and hibiscus, with peppery hints and a honey sweetness. My favorite cocktail was 5:15 Bird to Bangkok, a dessert of a drink using Kaffir Lime-infused UE’ Nonio Grappa, Hum, lime juice, Perfect Puree’s Caramelized Pineapple and Meyer Lemon, with a dollop of Luce chef, Dominique Crenn’s, lime sorbet and a lime leaf on top. Puckering tart melded beautifully with fruity, not-too-sweet tones. Aesthetically, that lime green was striking melting into pomegranate red.

Doug Williams' cocktail wizardry

•  I hope the unique Science of Cocktails (The Chronicle’s Jon Bonne did a nice overview of the event, which I don’t have the space to outline in detail here) becomes a recurring event annually. Nothing like having free reign of a playhouse like the Exploratorium, cocktails in hand, while classes, experiments, food and game all surround the science of mixology.

It was a joy to see nitrogen smoke coming from Liquid Alchemy’s cocktail wizard, Doug Williams, in a one-of-a-kind drink he created with Tom Mich of Sagatiba: Sagatiba cachaca, maraschino liqueur, lime, pink grapefruit, simple syrup… but in a crispy, boozy disc that dissolves in your mouth. Cocktails can be giddy and playful in such capable hands.

Sky Jet Wegman's cocktail

Other drink highlights include the always beautiful creations of Joel Baker of Bourbon and Branch: Pear Sonata, which I’ve had at B&B before, is a bright mix of 209 Gin, elderflower liqueur, Meyer lemon, dry vermouth and pear eau de vie.

Next to him, Sky Jet Wegman of 83 Proof, was doing some creative stuff with jalapeno skin, imparting that fresh pepper taste in 209 Gin with Aperol, toasted peppercorn, Darjeeling simple syrup and lemon. Removing seeds (and heat) from the jalapeno, the taste of the pepper and other ingredients shine.

Castro's new cocktail bar, The Residence

•  I’m always in love with what 15 Romolo is creating ($9-12 each). Last week I couldn’t decide which I loved more: the surprising, layered taste of Track 42 (42 Below Manuka Honey Vodka, basil, unfiltered apple juice, lemon, egg white), or the adult dessert stylings of a Hunter’s Flip (Speakeasy Hunter’s Point Porter, Root Liqueur – see above, Kraken Rum, whole egg, nutmeg, cacao nib tincture). How about one of each?

•  Multiple visits to Smuggler’s Cove and I only want more… thankfully, there are always more treasures. Port Royal is creative and spicy with Jerk simple syrup, lime, two kinds of Jamaican rum, housemade Hellfire tincture. Then there’s pretty much the best Banana Daiquiri ever – minus bubbly froth. Don’t forget the rum tasting flights.

SMUGGLER’S COVE… so much more than Tiki

650 Gough Street
415-869-1900
www.smugglerscovesf.com

The warm glow of Smuggler's Cove

I’m crazy about all things Tiki and its accompanying kitsch… which is why I’ve long been a fan of Alameda’s Forbidden Island Tiki Lounge. Martin Cate helped make that bar great with his cocktails, going beyond the usual too-sweet, one-note swill often paired with such a setting. Though he departed Forbidden Island awhile back, we’ve been holding our breath for his first bar right here in Hayes Valley in the former, tri-level Jade Bar space.

View from the upstairs perch

I had the privilege of attending a media preview last Thursday of Smugglers’ Cove, which officially opens tomorrow (Tue/8). As I entered the tinted storefront, it was as I hoped: a full-on themed bar, transporting me to another world… but with a heavy degree of taste, even refinement. There is (thankfully!) the occasional puffer fish lamp, or bamboo and thatched awnings in the inviting upstairs perch overlooking the main floor bar, keeping the Tiki torch burning. There’s also a strong maritime, pirate-like presence with a ship wheel, barrels, skulls and weaponry. Dark wood walls give the small space warmth, while under a vaulted ceiling lies knick knacks and treasures rife with stories: Tiki legends have their own little shrines tucked into the walls, with a couple lamps from the original Trader Vic’s emitting a soft glow. In the basement, dubbed the Boathouse, there’s another bar, across from a cascading waterfall. Much care has gone into the decor, with touches like unique punch bowls, making this a playful, campy space; part Tiki bar dream, part sophisticated, nautical rum bar.

Custom-made punch bowls

With more than 200 premium rums and a gorgeous 80+ cocktail menu that actually made me a little giddy to read through, drink is the real star here and Cate does not disappoint with his expertly-chosen selection. I’m eager to try many of these cocktails, my preview night favorites being a WWII classic, “Three Dots and a Dash“, a spiced refresher of aged Martinique rhum, private reserve rum, lime, orange, honey, falernum, allspice, bitters; and… “The Chadburn“, a complex mix of private reserve rum, tawny port, pear liqueur and a dash of chocolate mole bitters.  A fascinating  Calibogus, made with Zirbenz Stone Pine liqueur, spruce tincture, molasses, seltzer, Private Reserve rum, tastes almost like it would be in the root beer family – a bright, unique soda. Or just go for a rum flight (I like $16 Refinement flight) and taste the variety and complexity of rum.

Three Dots & a Dash Cocktail

The menu is intriguingly grouped in sections like “Classic Libations of Prohibition Era Havana“, “Exotic Rum Cocktails from Legendary Tiki Bars“, even “Exotic Cocktails without (Gasp!) Rum“. There’s going to be a “Rumbustion Society“, a rum school, if you will, where working your way through a 20-chapter study on the many styles and complexities of rum (punch card included), initiates you as a “disciple” with access to rare tastings from their vault. You can attempt to try all 80 cocktails on the menu to become a “Voyager” (tempting!), with its own privileges. Bountiful possibilities for interaction and tasting adventures.

Thankfully, music is also an ideal fit (something I always pay attention to). It’s certainly the kind of soundtrack where I might hear my Exotica favorites like Yma Sumac or Martin Denny. As I took a restroom break, “Bali Ha’i” serenaded me and I knew… I’ll gladly escape to the Cove over and over again.

– From my 12/7/09 SF Guardian Appetite column: http://www.sfbg.com/blogs/pixel_vision/2009/12/appetite_smugglers_cove_shangh.html