Drinking Destination: EAST BAY

It’s true: the East Bay cocktail scene is growing by leaps and bounds lately, with a slew of new bars (many opened by San Francisco bar stars) popping up from Albany to Alameda. Two comfortable, new hang-outs just debuted January 3rd serving cocktails for the geek and casual imbiber alike. Both claim noteworthy bartenders covering various shifts. I spent an evening tasting through their menus, offering an early peek at cocktail stand-outs… plus more go-to spots around the East Bay.

Honor Bar

1411 Powell Street (between Hollis & Peladeau), Emeryville, 510-653-8667

Situated in a solo building (with parking lot) not far from Emeryville’s shopping center madness (and E-ville’s other shining bar beacon, Prizefighter, which opened at the end of 2011), Honor Bar serves gourmet pub food in a room glowing with vintage signs, a Creature from the Black Lagoon pinball machine, and granite red bar, the center around which the space flows. After passing through an entrance lined with cigar signs, records, even an owl, grab a beer from a tub of ice. It’s on the honor system so ask a bartender to add it to your tab (no surprise: this is already garnering early buzz).

Cocktail menu quality was pretty much guaranteed under bar manager Alex Smith who came from Gitane in SF. I’ve written about his exquisite drinks at Gitane few times, unsurprised to find his offerings at Honor Bar more casual but nonetheless sophisticated, easily exhibiting promise at this early date to be among the best cocktails in the East Bay.

While slurping oysters with St. Germain herb mignonette or dipping Kennebec fries ($3.5) in salt and vinegar aioli or serrano ham jelly, select from cocktails (all $10) grouped under “stirred” (spirituous) or “shaken” (mixed with other ingredients). I’m immediately won over by gently smoky, spicy, bright layers of the Porfiriato. Tequila, guajillo pepper-infused mezcal, Cocchi di Torino, Licor 43, and cinnamon bitters meld in a complex yet drinkable whole.

The spirit of tiki hovers over but does not overwhelm the bourbon-based Bleeding Monarch. Passion fruit lends a tropical air, orgeat adds texture, balsamico amaro and Campari finish with deliciously bitter undertones. Black Sabbath is as badass as it sounds: Laphroiag Scotch dominates with a rough and tumble, smoky presence, given nuance by Averna, absinthe, and orange bitters.

Smith’s established skill with sherry shows in Jenkins’ Ear, highlighting oloroso sherry with aged rum, Angostura bitters and cardamom-spice properties of Hum liqueur – no element out of balance. Dessert with a savory essence can be had in a Winter Flip. Whole egg softens brandy and tawny port, while Smith’s housemade Indian pudding is a cream base (rather than a thick pudding) for layers of spice.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The New Easy

3255 Lakeshore Avenue (between Lake Park & Trestle Glen), Oakland, 510-338-4911

In Oakland’s Grand Lake district, Easy Lounge closed, transforming into the New Easy. Big Easy inspiration is evident in upcoming Nola Sundays with BBQ, punch bowls (proceeds go to charities) and New Orleans tunes. The space is funky, eclectic, charming, with boozy quotes etched into one wall, stars painted on another, white lights draped over individual picnic tables. The small back patio is warmed by heat lamps and a skeleton gazing over cactus plants.

The welcoming neighborhood joint focuses on farmers market ingredients. Each Saturday they create a new menu of cocktails using ingredients from the big Grand Lake Farmers Market a block away. Summer-Jane Bell not only created the menu but was hands-on in space design elements, painting stars as she crafted the menu. Her winning bartender team includes Yael Amyra (Circolo, Burritt Room), Ian Adams (15 Romolo, Orson), David Ruiz (Mr. Smith’s), and Morgan Schick (Nopa, Michael Mina).

Bell’s menu is decidedly playful, reminiscent of American childhood… with booze. The festive theme starts as you receive Chinese take-out boxes of fresh-popped popcorn, while bites of mini sliders and grilled cheese sandwiches are passed around. I had the most fun with Mad Hatter ($10). Sailor Jerry rum and a spicy ginger soda are obvious mates, but the bright orange, creamy drink surprises with golden raisin puree and carrot juice. Bright and healthy, spice and sweetness (but not too much) make it a delightful alternative to an orange creamsicle.

Gift Horse ($9) was probably the most balanced, making fine use of Hayman’s Old Tom gin, which I haven’t seen much on cocktail menus in awhile. Dolin Blanc vermouth and Bell’s winter bitters made with a tequila base, unfold in floral, dry layers with notes of cranberry and fennel from the bitters. Winter Sideshow ($11) offers the spectacle, even if I prefer the former two drinks. The drink will change with the seasons, a base of Beefeater gin and pür Spiced Blood Orange liqueur the backdrop for Angostura-flambeed kumquats, flamed before you.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cocktailing Around the East Bay

Oakland boasts the biggest concentration and range for East Bay cocktails, some of its consistent best at Adesso, casual drinks with bocce ball at Make Westing, elegant classic-style at Flora, pizza with cocktails at Marzano and Boot & Shoe Service, Miel for tequila/mezcal drinks, Conga Lounge and divey Kona Club for tiki kitsch.

Berkeley keeps it real with organic drinks at Gather, and artisanal cocktails at Revival Bar & Kitchen. The little island of Alameda hosts the beloved tiki gem, Forbidden Island, launched in part by tiki/rum expert Martin Cate who went on to open SF’s Smuggler’s Cove. Here, cheesy B movie nights, and live bands flow with Banana Mamacows. As mentioned above, Emeryville now has two destination-worthy bars for cocktail lovers: Prizefighter and Honor Bar.

Albany is blessed with three old school classics merely blocks from each other along San Pablo Ave.: the musty, tiki vibe of Club Mallard, the mid-century, retro swank of Kingman’s Ivy Room, and the edgy comfortability of Hotsy Totsy Club. Though none of these three are exactly craft cocktail bars, Hotsy Totsy comes closest, with house cocktail sodas, gracious bar manager Jessica Maria, and stellar guest bartenders like Scott Baird of The Bon Vivants, who bartends here weekly.

They’ve kept on longtime bartender Chet, in his 70′s, who has been tending there the better part of a couple decades. Their gorgeous, restored Wurlitzer jukebox is a treasure of rare and popular 45s, which you can play for free to your hearts content.

Hotsy Totsy encourages lingering with friends under pressed tin ceilings, rocking out to excellent tunes hand-selected by staff. Funky ’70′s garage sale paintings line the walls and hilariously creepy movies (like For Your Height Only starring Weng Weng) play silently on the flat screen, add to the edgy, blissfully divey, convivial spirit.

Fifth Floor COCKTAIL DELIGHTS

Food and wine are the draw at Fifth Floor (read here and here), but bartender Brian Means (formerly of Zero Zero) has created cocktails worth a stop all by themselves in the mellow lounge.

The unassuming Mr. Means creates some of the more promising recipes I’ve tasted from an up-and-coming bartender. As I judge multiple cocktail contests, his entries consistently exhibit a surprising level of sophistication, often placing high. He shakes (and stirs) with an unfussy hand, comprehending classic cocktail foundations, but varying off-path enough to keep it interesting.

Here are three of his cocktails I’d recommend, currently on the Fifth Floor menu:

Pink Elephant – Death’s Door (one of my favorite gins), with rosato vermouth, pineapple gomme syrup, orange bitters and smoked absinthe. Means doesn’t let the smoke overpower. Rather, it gives off a faint smoke aroma, hinting at brawn behind a delicate surface. Don’t judge it by its color.

Loretto Wrangler – Named after a key Kentucky bourbon town (home of Maker’s Mark, the Wrangler’s base spirit), Loretto Wrangler includes Cynar (Italian artichoke liqueur), Graham’s Six Grapes port, Dubonnet Rouge, and Bitter Truth chocolate bitters. It may sound like a lot of ingredients, but never fear.

Playing like a classic, spirit-driven whiskey cocktail, it unfolds with layers of bitter, sweet, boozy, and thanks to the choco bitters, meaty, goodness.

Spanish Maiden – El Tesoro blanco tequila and elderflower liqueur with a lemon twist makes for an obviously pleasing aperitif pre-dinner, right?

Add in a dash of sherry and this bright refresher takes on depth and dimension, if ever so subtly, while still remaining stimulating and light.

BARREL AGED BEAUTIES

Here are two new barrel aged beauties worth seeking out, plus more to look forward to in 2012.

1512 SPIRITS BARREL AGED 100% RYE

We’ve talked small production 1512 Spirits rye before, made by Salvatore (Sal) Cimino in a small, custom still up in Santa Rosa. During the day you’ll find him giving shaves and cutting hair in his classic Nob Hill barbershop.

His brand new release is a barrel-aged 100% Rye, just on the market at merely a handful of bottles ($59.99-per half-bottle) with the largest allocation available through K&L Wines.

Ryes are (blessedly) flooding the market these days but only a handful are made from 100% rye and even less with the one-man attention that goes into 1512. Sal cautiously guards his process, not allowing anyone else present when distilling.

Whiskey fans may quibble about a $60 half bottle when they can get cheaper ryes (or stand-outs like Thomas H. Handy Sazerac Rye for more). But this rye is the opposite of high production whiskey. One tastes the hands-on care in each sip. Though 100 proof, it is bright, fresh, popping with apple, vanilla, pepper, a gentle rather than bracing spice, and a lingering complexity.

I had the privilege of tasting early batches of 2012′s future releases, including a 105 proof Poitín (or poteen in the States), a rare Irish spirit made in this case from potatoes (the word poteen refers to small pot stills in which the liquor is historically made). Despite the use of potatoes, I would not liken this to potato vodka. Clear, bold and light, it evokes cucumber and Summer, with the spirit of an eau de vie and robustness of a white whiskey. There’s nothing in the US quite like it and it is set to be released in April 2012.

Later in 2012, Cimino is releasing a bracing white wheat whiskey at over 70% wheat (I sampled it at 120 proof but it will be bottled closer to or below 100 proof). For that proof, it’s awfully smooth, evoking surprising flavors from straight-up wheat bread to clean chocolate notes. Another unusual sip, it confirms that this Nob Hill barber is creating some of California’s (and yes, the country’s) more interesting, very small batch, historical spirits. Aged Rye $59.99

BOLS BARREL AGED GENEVER

The classic Dutch spirit, Bols Genever, has been produced by Lucas Bols since 1575. Not many distilleries can boast such a heritage. Master distiller Piet Van Leijenhorst has been crafting Bols for over 25 years. Genever is a spirit often referred to as the original gin that London dry and other gins morphed from. It’s worlds apart from what we commonly call gin, more akin to whiskey in boldness but with its own unique, herbaceous profile.

In trying the new Bols Barrel Aged Genever, which Esquire magazine just named best new liquor of 2011, complexity raises a few more notches. Made with traditional genever botanicals (like cloves, anise, hops, ginger, juniper, etc…), the genever is aged 18 months in French Limousin oak. Bottled in a grey, earthenware bottle, it has substance visually as it does in taste. It drinks bold with a silky texture. Subtly sweet with vanilla honey, cinnamon spice, wood and pepper linger on the finish.

As with a good whiskey, I like to sip Bols Barrel Aged Genever neat, pre or post dinner, but it also gives intriguing dimensionss to classic cocktail greats like a Mint Julep or Manhattan (substitute whiskey for genever). $49.99

SCOTCH: WINTER DELIGHTS

“Too much of anything is bad, but too much of good whiskey is barely enough.” - Mark Twain

Last issue I shared a few dynamic new spirits releases across categories, from creme de menthe to Scottish gin. This round, it’s Scotch sips for a winter’s night. While I continue to sip Mortlach 16 and one-of-a-kind bottles from the Scotch Malt Whisky Society I recently brought home from Scotland, wishing they were available in the States (there is a Society chapter in the US, and as is true with each bottle they offer, the ones I had in Scotland were single releases there), here are four producers that are available and would be gladly received as holiday gifts by Scotch whisky lovers in your life.

Something Different

BOWMORE – Smoky Sophistication
Smoky, like a fine cigar, with muted, sophisticated tones… that’s Bowmore’s 15 year “Darkest” Scotch.

For Islay Scotch-fanatics (Islay: the island on which generally peaty/smoky Scotches thrive), this one is an understated beauty. Where Laphroaig‘s standard 10 year Scotch hits hard and heavy on the smoke (Ardbeg’s Supernova and Alligator take it even further – like sucking on an ashtray… in a good way), Bowmore 15 takes a more seductive route. Tantalizing on the nose with chocolate, pepper and wood, the taste is rich in cedar wood, sea brine, sherry, toffee, and, yes, peat. This gorgeous Islay Scotch is aged in American bourbon and Oloroso sherry casks, without being overwhelmed by either sherry sweetness or peaty smoke.

It’s among my top peat-driven Scotches of all time, a lesson in balance, offering all the smoke one could desire, but not merely that. Bowmore is the oldest distillery in Islay, around since 1779. In keeping with its rich history, it’s one of Islay’s gems – at a reasonable price. $69.99

BALBLAIR 2000 – Young and Bright
Young and bright aren’t words one thinks of in relation to Scotch. Way up north in the Highlands, Balblair crafts stand-up Scotches with just such a profile.

Though I like the green apple, woody spice of their 1989 single malt, I’m more taken with the younger 2000. Golden, and balanced, it unfolds with pear and green apple notes, making way for honey, coconut, and a spice zing that lingers warm and soft on the palate. It tastes young, yes, but this makes it no less complex than an older, mustier Scotch. In fact, in my latest travels through Scotland, Balblair 2000 stood out not just because of it’s modern packaging, but because it is fresh, different than many of the other whiskies I was sipping (and well-priced for a single malt). Though not easy to find in the States, SF’s own Whisky Shop has it at $62.50 a bottle. $62.50

Elegantly Approachable

THE MACALLAN – Romance & Range
Returning last month from Speyside up in Northern Scotland, I stayed on the enchanting Macallan estate. I’ll never forget the austere peace of their 370 acre land: the river Spey, lush green hillsides contrasting with vivid colors of fall, moody storms passing swiftly through.

The Macallan whiskies are a lesson in elegance, even if the popularity (and thus scarcity) of higher-aged product drives up prices. Harmony of spice and brightness is obtained by maturing their Scotches in both sherry and bourbon casks.

Besides their bracing 10 year cask strength Scotch, which is sadly not available in the States, my favorites are on the pricier end: 21 year Fine Oak ($180-250) is heady with jasmine and tropical fruits, while nutty, orange blossom notes of the 3o year Sherry ($900-$1000) compliment its earthiness. Both are gorgeous. On the affordable end, the 15 year ($80) is honey-rich, with cinnamon and floral notes melding into orange and chocolate. The classic Sherry Oak 12 year ($49.99) is a great value, evoking orange marmalade, vanilla and toffee. $49.99-$1000

THE GLENROTHES – Smooth Balance

If you can find Glenrothes Vintage 1994 ($79), snatch it up, for it is the last of the vintage. Making way for Vintage 1995 ($82) just released this month, the Speyside whisky producer makes some of the more elegant Scotches from the region.

Like The Macallan, they mature their whiskies in both sherry and bourbon casks. 1995 evokes pepper, cedar, creamy butterscotch, and when a couple drops of water are added, a surprising whisper of chocolate. 1994 gives off a nose of apple and even pencil shavings, while tasting of woody vanilla.

On the cheaper end ($45), you won’t go wrong with Glenrothes classic Select Reserve ($45), bright with orange zest, malt, salt, and coconut.

If you want to go all out, hunt for the rare (only 120 bottles in US, $375) 1996 Single Cask Editor’s Edition. The nose evokes an earthy, aged rum and demerara sugar, while the taste is crisp spice, maple syrup richness, and Oaxacan chocolate. A truly unique Scotch.

I recently spent time with Glenrothes director Ronnie Cox, his sense of humor and good taste evident. Glenrothes is one of the great blended whiskys, and as he quipped: “Single malts for thinkers, blended whisky for drinkers.” I’d say Glenrothes is for both. $45-$375

We seek wine recommends the year ’round, but at no time more so than the holidays. Here’s some sipping assistance for ringing in the new year (note: key shops like K&L Wine Merchants, Jug Shop, Arlequin, Bi-Rite, or SF Wine Trading Co., may stock these bottles or can likely order them for you).

Going Bubbly

Nothing says New Year’s Eve like champagne, and at a recent Bubble Lounge industry tasting, my palate was piqued by a few. I cannot afford Armand de Brignac champagne, but if you can splurge, by all means, be my guest. In elaborate, hand-carved bottles marked by pewter labels, attention to detail is paramount. Thankfully, the champagne is as elevated as the package. Blanc de Blanc is buttery with oak, balanced by a chardonnay crispness; the Rose is a gently flushed beauty; Brut Gold is a showcase blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot Menuier. Often over $300, I may never be able to stock my wine cabinet with a bottle, but I anticipate the joy of tasting it again.

At a ridiculously reasonable $7.99 a bottle, I like Spain’s Jaume Serra Cristalino Brut with earthy, citrus notes and bone-dry finish, and Cristalino Rose, redolent of mushroom and tart cherry, made with Pinot Noir and the less common Trepat grape.

Cloverhill Sparkling from Tasmania is bready and crisp, balanced by honey. Zardetto Rose Raboso Veronese and Zeta Prosecco are both a real value; the Rose laden with strawberry and vanilla cream, while the acidic Prosecco is food friendly (both around $15).

Cider Sipping

With its long American history, cider is low in alcohol and a happy food companion… a welcome change of pace from wine and champagne.

I received a few samples this fall, my pick being an upstate New York duo. Newton Pippin Original Sin Cider, is made from single heirloom Pippin varietals, known as “the prince of apples”. Uber dry and crisp, it pairs well with a wide range of foods (I rather like it with pretzels and mustard).

Cherry Tree Original Sin Cider is a winning combo of tart cherries combined with crisp heirloom apples.

Value Wines

Lasseter  Enjoué, Sonoma – This $24 rosé from the just-opened Lasseter Family Winery (you may know John Lasseter as Pixar/Disney’s CFO and director of films like Toy Story) is a dry Rhone-style rosé whispering Mediterranean breezes and flower gardens. A Syrah, Mourvedre, Grenache blend, Enjoué, means “joyful, playful.” Though winter might not seem ideal, I’d sip this softly acidic beauty for a winter escape or hold onto it until the days lengthen… my favorite of the four wines at the elegantly understated winery. John, his wife Nancy, and winemaker Julia Iantosca have a love of Bordeaux and Rhone wines, apparent in their blended wines representing varietals from both regions. Purchase online or at the winery (tastings by appointment).

Gerard Bertrand Chateau L’Hospitalet, France – 2007 Gerard Bertrand Chateau L’Hospitalet Reserve is one of the better French bargain reds. At a mere $8.99 a bottle, this wine from the La Clape region of the Languedoc is fruit-forward, begging to partner with a hearty cassoulet or coq au vin. A blend of 30% Grenache, 40% Syrah, 30% Mourvedre, its soft spice is balanced by minerality and subtle oak.

Landmark 2009 Grand Detour Pinot Noir, Sonoma – At $40, this is Landmark Vineyard’s lower-priced Pinot which I actually prefer to their $65 Kanzler Pinot. It’s robust for a Pinot with earthy cherry and minimal oak, but offers enough acidity to be food friendly, unfolding as it sits. This casual, comfortable winery (with bocce ball and small lake) offers tastings and bottles to purchase or order online.

Mapema Sauvignon Blanc & Malbec, Argentina – Mapema’s 2011 Sauvignon Blanc ($14) and 2009 Malbec ($19) are both affordable winners. The Sauv Blanc claims 90% stainless steel fermentation (10% aged in new French oak), allowing the grape’s zesty, acidic properties to dominate. Lemongrass and a well-rounded finish go nicely with seafood. Malbec offers hints of cherry and cocoa, with solid tannins from 50% new and 50% 1 year French oak, pairing well with pork, lamb, or hearty grains.

Huge Bear Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma – The name Huge Bear might not be poetic (though I dig the old world, wild west, California label), but the 2009 Sauvignon Blanc ($25) offers floral melon and citrus notes, soothing with Asian take-out. 2009 Chardonnay ($40) is pricey but showcases crisp apple, pear and mineral notes, followed by a butter cream finish. These are small production at merely 150 cases each.

Kracher’s Cuvee Beernauslese (pronounced bear-en-ow-schlay-zuh), Austria – I adore Austrian wines and this $27 blend of Chardonnay and Welschriesling grapes is much more than a sweet finish to a meal. It’s a layered, acidic dessert wine, dripping with vanilla honey balanced by mineral pineapple and lemon zest.

Pitch Black Amsterdam, a cocktail with a bruleed vanilla foam, being torched at Harry Denton's Starlight Room

Winter Sips: FOUR NOTEWORTHY NEW COCKTAIL MENUS

BURRITT ROOM, Downtown/Union Square
417 Stockton Street (near Sutter), 415-400-0500

I’ve covered many a Burritt Room cocktail creation since it opened with Kevin Diedrich at the helm (now bar manager at Jasper’s Corner Tap). Under new Burritt bar manager Joel Baker, I likewise expected approachable elegance, which Baker exhibited in his recipes since early days at Bourbon and Branch. It’s no surprise that in sampling all cocktails ($10 each) on his new menu, there’s not one slouch.

One really can’t go wrong on this menu (which will change roughly every couple months), but I will attempt to narrow down highlights. Japanese whisky fans should thrill to the Kurosawa Cocktail: Yamazaki 12 year whisky, Dry Sack 15 year Oloroso sherry, and Aperol combine over a perfect, large ice cube, waves of raisin richness issuing from the sherry. Balance reigns and Japanese whisky is given a proper showcase.

Lucia Bose may be the most accessible cocktail I’ve yet had featuring genever. Campari gives structure, while strawberry gomme syrup, lemon and still rosé wine give the rosy pink cocktail refreshing layers. Single Village Crusta, being true to its designation as a crusta, is rimmed in sugar, the sweet contrasted with creamy smoke of Del Maguey Chichicapa mezcal, rounded out by maraschino and orange liqueurs, lemon, Angostura bitters.

The herbaceous notes of Grass Roots make it another top pick. Beefeater gin, Amaro Montenegro and sweet vermouth offer subtle sweet notes, lime and rosemary lift it to a verdant, refreshing whole.

Desmond Dekker pays homage to Tiki drinks with Jamaican rum, Punt e Mes vermouth, allspice dram, demerara sugar, grapefruit, lime and grapefruit bitters. Though brightly sweet, the tart of grapefruit (even a tinge of bitter pith), give it complexity without alienating those wanting juicy and refreshing.

If you haven’t returned to Burritt Room in awhile, now would be a good time to do so. With news of Charlie Palmer taking over Burritt’s massive backroom for an upcoming restaurant, it seems Burritt will soon have a culinary partner to match its fine drinks.

AZIZA, Outer Richmond
5800 Geary Blvd. (at 22nd Ave.), 415-752-2222

I’ve said it before and am saying it again: Aziza has one of our city’s underrated bar programs. Run by Farnoush Deylamian with bar directors, Brian Galli, Christopher Longoria and Jordan Edwards, Aziza’s cocktail menu ($10 each) is grouped by spirit (from pisco to brandy), with ingredients listed rather than cocktail names and descriptions.

In the past, I’ve taken to the simple brightness of the gin cocktail with celery and sage. Recently, I’ve sampled eight more cocktails, each intriguing, and with as many incredible cocktail bars as I visit around the world, Aziza’s are unique to what one finds even at produce-driven bars anywhere.

Laphroaig and peat smoke play with such a gentle hand alongside Concord grape and elderflower that it is palatable to the non-Islay/peaty Scotch drinker (I had a few with me and they took to it). Red bell pepper shines with rye, given a mischievous bitter finish from Bonal and Cocchi Americano. Though a whiskey cocktail, it works as a pre-dinner aperitif.

Actual aperitifs charm, from calvados (French apple brandy) green with sugar snap peas and bitter orange, to cognac enlivened by fig and proscecco. Possibly my favorite is a blanco tequila (listed under the “agave” section) that could easily be too garden-heavy with wild arugula and turmeric root. Rather, it is earthy, green and bright.

If you have not explored Aziza’s notable cocktail menu paired with the best creative Moroccan food in our city, you might want to set a date.

STARLIGHT ROOM, Downtown/Union Square
450Powell Street between Post and Sutter, 415-395-8595

The revamped Harry Denton’s Starlight Room finally morphed into what I wished it would be: an elegant, velvet-couch lined lounge with a view over our fair city… which also happens to serve excellent artisan cocktails. As I wrote about in my preview of the bar menu before they re-opened, the win of bar manager Joel Teitelbaum’s multi-paged cocktail menu is that it appeals to the cocktail geek and the casual drinker alike. Exotic ingredients come in approachable presentations with a little something for everyone.

I sampled some new drinks on the just-released winter menu, taking to these two:

Winter Flip ($12): cinnamon-infused Quebranta single vineyard Encanto pisco is mixed with calvados (French apple brandy) and apple juice, for a brisk fall apple body balanced by earthy quebranta grape notes. Lemon juice rounds it out, whole egg makes it ridiculously light and frothy. So smooth, this one goes down all too easy.

Pitch Black Amsterdam ($12): Torres 10 yr brandy and Bols Genever set an earthy, sweet tone, Root liqueur gives it a decidedly root beer bent, while a splash of Frangelico hazelnut liqueur and Angostura bitters tie it together. The clincher is a bruleed vanilla foam on top. Yes, your bartender torches it in full view. A toasted marshmallow aroma greets you first, followed by a wintery liquid, robust yet smooth.

JASPER’S CORNER TAP, Downtown/Union Square
401 Taylor Street at O’Farrell, 415-775-7979

One of my regular watering holes since it opened this summer, Jasper’s Corner Tap just gained the bar talent of Enrique Sanchez (formerly of La Mar), on board its already all-star bartender line-up. They also have a few noteworthy winter cocktails on their latest menu.

I’ve sampled a good eight of the new additions, taking to the Orchard Malt Mule ($13), ginger beer brightening Glen Grant single malt and Belle de Brillet (a cognac pear liqueur), finished with apple cider, lemon, and allspice-infused honey. It’s a Scotch refresher artfully garnished with pear slices.

I’m also taken with the Great Pumpkin Fizz ($9): rum and Velvet Falernum get some fall love with maple pumpkin butter, lemon, cream, Fee Old Fashion Bitters. Vanilla and clove shine while egg white creates a soft texture.

There’s ever a friendly pour and bartender waiting when I arrive at Jasper’s.

A Spirited Winter: Bottles for Gift-Giving

Whether hunting for the latest and unusual spirits as a gift or pour during holiday festivities, these brand new products, a number of them local, are standouts in my incessant sampling.

TEMPUS FUGIT CREME de MENTHE & CREME de CACAO
Praise be for the arrival (finally) of these game-changing liqueurs! I had the privilege of tasting early prototypes of local Tempus Fugit’s Crème de Menthe and Crème de Cacao well over a year ago. One taste and I could never go back to the cheap-tasting versions of both we’ve been stuck with for decades. As popular elements in classic cocktails (you’ll find them all over the 1930 Savoy Cocktail Book), Tempus Fugit (TF) revives the crèmes to their original glory using natural herbs and botanicals. Just as they’ve done with Gran Classico and Creme de Violette, they recover recipes from long before chemical additives and mass production.

As I’ve said before, my guilty pleasure cocktail is a Grasshopper (confession: it was my first favorite cocktail at age 21), and no Grasshopper is more revelatory than one made with TF’s menthe and cacao with a splash of cream. Their crèmes also re-invent classic cocktails like the Stinger (brandy, Crème de Menthe) or a Brandy Alexander (cognac, Crème de Cacao, cream). Creme de Menthe is crisp, minty, like breathing in fresh mountain air. Creme de Cacao is earthy, dark chocolate with a light, subtly sweet hand. Waiting on label approval, TF has two more treasures in store for us, hopefully by early next year: a Fernet (less menthol, more layered herbaceous notes than Fernet Branca), and a Kina, a bitter, bright aperitif most closely related to Lillet. Again, tasting early versions of both historical recipes, I’m not surprised: they’re beauties. $29.99

ESSENTIAL SPIRITS BIERSCHNAPS
Sergeant Dave Classick, master distiller and Vietnam War vet is known for his gold and silver rums. Besides being a Bay Area local (his distillery is in Mountain View), he runs Essential Spirits, producing a grappa, bierschnaps, and a pear brandy. All three (or the rums, for that matter) make worthy gifts, but “most unusual” points go to the bierschnaps. Distilled in an Alambic still, this clear, Bavarian spirit is brewed from, you guessed it: beer, a California Pale Ale (light on the hops) which they brew themselves. Smooth like a quality vodka, it elicits elements from spirits as varying as grappa to tequila, retaining a dry finish from American malt. A rare German treat, enjoy on the rocks, as a martini, or in Sergeant Classick’s own Classick Lime Ricky. $34.99

BITTERMENS SPIRITS AMERE SAUVAGE
Each November, the Indy Spirits Expo offers excellent small production pours, and even I find a few new surprises every year. This time, a winner was New York’s Bittermens Spirits (yes, of the popular indie bitters line) brand new line of five bitter liqueurs ($29.99). Each is a worthy purchase, whether it be Amère Nouvelle, an Alsatian-style bitter orange liqueur used in classic cocktails like the Amer Biere (pale lager, bitter orange and gentian liqueur), or the limited edition Hiver Amer, a bitter orange-laced cinnamon liqueur, ideal in egg nog or toddies. My favorite at first taste was the Amère Sauvage, an alpine gentian liqueur, using famously bitter gentian root herbs, it is earthy and lush in a White Negroni. $29.99

OLD WORLD SPIRITS GOLDRUN RYE
Old World Spirits, a small gem of a distillery just south of SF in San Carlos, produces a whole line of winners, from their California-spirited Blade Gin and its aged counterpart, Rusty Blade, to their lushly spiced Kuchan Nocino black walnut liqueur. Their new release of Goldrun Rye is the right gift for the whiskey fans among you. K&L Wine Merchants has some of the early bottles available of this long-anticipated rye. With an Old West label, the Gold Rush-inspired rye whiskey evokes warm cereal and whispers of molasses and caramel, smooth enough to convert bourbon drinkers to the spiced pleasures of rye, the “other” American whiskey. More than most, the spice doesn’t overwhelm, rather it tastes as a fresh as just-baked loaf of rye bread. $36.99, 375 ml bottle

CAORUNN GIN
In my recent travels through Scotland, I sampled a brand new Scottish gin (we’re seeing more, e.g. Bruichladdich’s Botanist and Darnley’s Gin made in England but with Scottish connections): Caorunn (pronounced ‘ka-roon’). Besides typical London dry style botanicals like juniper, Caorunn goes a different direction with Scottish ingredients like heather, dandelion, rowan berry, bog myrtle, and Coul blush apple (a total of six traditional and five Celtic botanicals make up the gin). Despite its traditional roots, Caorunn plays against type with rosy apple notes, a crisp body, and dry finish. For gin lovers, it’s a slightly different take. In experimenting at home, I find it works best with rustic apple juice, bringing out its vivacious fall spirit evocative of the gorgeous Scottish Highlands in which it is made (distilled at Balmenach Distillery). $35

Bonus ideas: any of St. George’s three stunning new gins, or Art in the Age’s (Philadeliphia-based company that created Root and Snap liqueurs) brand new Rhuby, a spirit based on 1700′s American rhubarb tea recipes, and made from rhubarb, beets, carrots, lemon, cardamom, pink peppercorn, coriander, vanilla, and pure cane sugar.