Sep
01
2010

On the Town

SF CHEFS  8/10-15

SF CHEFS, a week-long celebration of all things food and drink in SF, ushered in it’s second year last week. It was as full, fun and delectable as the first year. From industry seminars like the intriguing Tales from the Still, which kicked off the week, to the Grand Tasting tent in Union Square, there was never a dull moment… nor a hungry one. Food from some our best chefs and drinks from some our best bartenders flowed freely at the Spice Party or Friday’s Hog in the Fog festivities. Here are merely a few photo highlights:

8/12 Spice Party at the Westin

Reza Esmaili's lovely "Rosebud" aperitif w/ vodka, Hendrick's gin, Lillet Blanc, Aperol, rosewater, "Russia Rose" dry rose

Organizers and chefs gather for a photo

Hoss Zare's (of Zare at Fly Trap) lovely, bright Persian Yogurt Soup

DJ in the balconies of gorgeous mezzanine ballroom of the Westin

Mourad Lahlou's brilliant Egg Charmoula spiced w/ harissa, chili, cumin, caraway, topped with potato foam

David Nepove mixes r1 Spice Party cocktails

Mourad Lahlou (Exec Chef) & (Pastry Chef) from Aziza

8/13 Hog in the Fog in Union Sq.

Ribbon Cutting Ceremony w/ chefs in Union Square

Martin Cate shakes up one of the best cocktails of the night: El Piloto (Flor de Cana 12yr rum, Velvet Falernum, Herbsaint, Angostura bitters, lime, grapefruit, cinnamon syrup)

Neyah White pours Yamazaki & Hibiki whisky (tower of ice in the background operates as both bottle perch & ice for drink pours)

Daniel Hyatt of Alembic serves a gorgeous take on a Mint Julep w/ Maker's Mark and black tea bitters along with mint and sugar

Food highlight of the night: Frances' Bacon & Peach White Corn Blinis

Chris Cosentino of Incanto celebrated the pig with head cheese accented by pickled mustard seeds

Dominic Venegas (of Smuggler's Cove & John Walker & Co.) makes lovely Hendrick's Gin cocktail w/ lemon, lavender & rose hip honey

Joel Baker (of Bourbon & Branch) creates a lush version of a Julep w/ Makers, Amaro Nonino, Small Hands' pineapple gum syrup, black pepper essence, mint

Duggan McDonnell (of Cantina, Encanto Pisco) "will work for pisco" (www.sfbg.com/2010/07/ 14/appetite-campo-de-encanto-sf-gets-its-own-pisco)

8/14 Grand Tasting in Union Square

Surprisingly, my top taste of the day was Magnolia Brewery's simple, utterly delicious Smoked Sea Trout & Kolsch Mustard on a chip - I kept returning for more

The ever gracious Hubert Keller (Fleur de Lys, Burger Bar, Top Chef Masters) serves food

Another delectable: Perbacco's Iberico ham over silky burrata

Michael Mina serves food with his family

David Nepove (L - USBG) & Robert E. Gonzales (USBG, Tommy's) mix whiskey sours & whiskey marmalade sours

Tony Abou-Ganim talks about stocking & tending your home bar

1300 on Fillmore Blue Cheese Grits w/ wild mushrooms & tomato marmalade

8/14 Top Chef Happy Hour

At the W Hotel, former Top Chef Contestants compete for best cocktail (L-R: Mattin Noblia, Erik Hopfinger, Laurine Wickett, Ryan Scott, Jennifer Biesty) (photo: Daniel Stumpf)

I judged cocktails w/ Hubert Keller (who also DJed) & Susannah Chen of YumSugar (photo: Daniel Stumpf)

Jen Biesty shakes it up over her Fiji ice creation (photo: Daniel Stumpf)

We voted Jen Biesty's cocktail tops (great balance of flavors): "The Fiji Facial" - Nob Hill inspired (cucumber juice, Square One cucumber vodka, Cointreau, lime, ginger, organic cane sugar, mint)

Written by Virginia in: On the Town | Tags:
Aug
15
2010

On the Town

TALES from TALES: Highlights at Tales of the Cocktail

Elms Mansion Opening Party

In 100% humidity at 100 degrees (with no relief at night), spending a week drinking and eating doesn’t sound like the best idea, but for eight years running, it happens every July in New Orleans at Tales of the Cocktail. For cocktail lovers and industry, this is THE drink event of the year (yes, I was at the Manhattan Cocktail Classic – no comparison in my book).

My first, or virgin, year at Tales, was as sleepless and packed as everyone said it would be, but moderation is the name of my game (at least outside of sleep). I managed to indulge without so much as one hangover from anything other than sleep deprivation.

At the scotch bar inside Elms Mansion

Of course, it meant merely tasting most drinks, eating a lot (NO problem in New Orleans!) and promptly turning around upon surveying 3am crowds at Old Absinthe House, instead heading to quieter bars or the Monteleone lobby for civilized conversation.

I already feel completely alive in my skin when I’m in New Orleans. Any reason to be in that queen of cities is a good reason for me. Tales itself grew progressively better as the week went on, despite awful heat and waning sleep… mainly because I continued to meet great people which led to further excursions, tastings, dinners, parties, and as the cumulative effect added up to a host of memories and experiences.  Let me try to summarize a mere few highlights for you:

LIFE-ALTERING TASTING of 1865 & 1805 COGNAC!
7/25 The Mysteries & Secrets of Distilling in Cognac

Dale DeGroff pouring the remarkable 1865 cognac

Cognac masters, Olivier Paultes and Alain Royer, moderator Dale DeGroff, and spirited bartender extraordinaire, Salvatore Calabrese, were keepers of the surprise that awaited at the end of a fascinating, seemingly routine seminar on the methods of distilling cognac, along with a token five cognac, side-by-side tasting.

The 1865 cognac label

The seminar suddenly escalated to once-in-a-lifetime experience when Calabrese informed our small group that he brought not only a bottle of 1865 Rouyer Guillet & Co. cognac to share together, but also an 1805 Maison De L’Emprereur cognac he was going to make a Sazerac with!

Salvatore Calabrese mixing the ultimate Sazerac

The room erupted in applause as we stood on chairs to take photos and watch him mix what he called a “$10,000 cocktail”. We passed the Sazerac around, each savoring a profound sip.

We all had a pour of the silky 1865. I exhaled and placed my head down on the table after first taste. It was remarkably full, refined with raisin and floral notes initially, a finely balanced burn, evolving into chocolate and nutty notes. I could only begin to fathom the history wrapped up in each sip. As Calabrese exclaimed, “This was made when Abraham Lincoln was alive!”

Worth far more than the $40 price of admission, the lucky few who happened to be in this seminar got an education beyond what we could have ever expected. We lived a moment that, for drink lovers, will remain a marker of earth-shattering tastes for the rest of our lives.

GREEN GORILLAS DESCENDING on the PELICAN CLUB
7/22 at The Pelican Club Spirited Dinner, French Quarter

Green gorillas walk up to a bar...

Thursday night there were Spirited Dinners across town. I chose the one at Pelican Club mainly because of the all-star line-up of bartenders from across the country pairing cocktails with a six-course dinner: Marcos Tello – The Varnish, LA; Jim Meehan – PDT, NY; Misty Kalkofen – Drink, Boston; Peter Vestinos – Wirtz Beverage Group, Chicago; and our own rockstar, Neyah White, formerly of Nopa.

The food was not as fine as I’d hoped, but the atmosphere was convivial, festive, a warmly welcoming party. The cocktails all featured the night’s spirit: Bols Genever.

Under magnificent oaks at Elms Mansion

Neyah clearly had fun creating the dessert cocktail, Drum Shag: Bols, sarsaparilla, PX sherry, infused with smoke.

But the highlight of the night? A foursome of green gorillas descended on the bar during aperitif hour before we were seated at our tables. I’d seen them at the pool of the Monteleone before, or roaming the streets, surely hot and sweaty in their cheap, neon green garb. The site of these guys at the elegant Pelican bar while some of our country’s best bartenders poured them shots was a memorable image, one that somehow typifies the wacky exuberance that is Tales.

DEL MAGUEY – RON COOPER – MEZCAL
7/25 La Verdad (The Truth) about Mezcal Seminar

Mezcal spread at mezcal seminar

Everyone who knows anything about mezcal knows Ron Cooper of Del Maguey is the master, having done more to further the mezcal gospel than anyone, even being called the “mezcal missionary“. As my friend whispered to me during the seminar, describing the panel of mezcal distillers: “They’ve all drunk the kool-aid, haven’t they?” Despite the fact that I’ve already been a mezcal fan for a few years, so did I… so did we all… by the end of the session.

Ron Cooper chats w/ an attendee

I’m must be honest: much as I appreciated every distiller there (Illegal Mezcal, Los Amantes, and Sombra), as has been my common experience in previously tasting these and other mezcals, none are in the same league as Ron’s entire product line. This was highlighted in a side-by-side tasting of all the above next to five Del Maguey mezcals. But all these guys were heartfelt and inspiring, while Ron himself is a small, peace-filled  powerhouse of a man… the Yoda of the mezcal world.

Every single Del Maguey mezcal is a revelation, whether the creamy, smoky sweet of Crema de Mezcal, or the chocolate earthiness of other-worldly Chichicapa. More to come soon here and in my Guardian column about his mezcals. Thanks to Neyah White, who created this menu, try Del Maguey by the shot at Nopalito, in cocktails throughout SF, or order some bottles. Once you dig further into mezcal, particularly through the Del Maguey lens, you, too, will “drink the kool-aid”.

SOUTHERN ROMANCE of DIXIELAND JAZZ under SWEEPING OAKS
7/22 William Grant & Sons Opening Party at Elms Mansion in the Garden District

Magic at Elms Mansion w/ jazz under rotunda

Yes, by 1am it felt like it was actually getting hotter as I wilted in the oppressive humidity, but what could have been more romantic than the stately, white Elms Mansion with stunning wood carved fireplaces and ceilings, drawing room scotch bar, white lights and absinthe in the garden, and live Dixieland band playing under a white-pillared rotunda? Not much. As massive oak trees loomed over us, even larger than the mansion, I felt fully alive and grateful… I was in the South.

A SUDDEN DOWNPOUR entering the BARTENDER’S BREAKFAST
7/24 Bartender’s Breakfast – Spirited Awards after party

Balcony at Bartender's Breakfast

A second line jazz funeral was held for Sex on the Beach, a cocktail that surely needed to die, on the walk from the Spirited Awards Ceremony to the Bartender’s Breakfast, where the likes of Audrey Saunders and Jim Meehan were making us drinks. Before entering the building, a sultry Summer storm rushed through, dampening our dresses, suits and hair. A warm rain, it wasn’t exactly a respite from the unrelenting heat, but it somehow refreshed, invigorated, injecting us with energy to celebrate late into the night.

Written by Virginia in: On the Town | Tags: ,
Aug
15
2010

On the Town

Bryan Batt of Mad Men chats w/ red carpet host, Natalie Bovis, LA's Liquid Muse

Bryan Batt chats w/ Natalie Bovis

It was a privilege to attend the Mad Men-themed Spirited Awards Dinner on July 24 as a guest of The Bitter Truth gentleman from Germany, Stephan Berg and Alexander Hauck. Happily, they won for Best New Product with their incomparable celery bitters.

San Francisco represented well with the Rickhouse crew nominated in three major categories, including Best American Cocktail Bar and World’s Best Cocktail Menu.

As a Mad Men fan, it was a treat to meet Bryan Batt (who lives in Nola) and see him as a presenter. The house band played the show’s theme almost ad nauseum every time someone won an award. The ceremony, and following Bartender’s Breakfast after party, were highlights in a week full of memorable events. Here are the 2010 Spirited Awards winners and a few of my photos from the night.

Natalie Bovis talks to Salvatore Calabrese

———–

World’s Best Drink Selection

Bar Lebensstern in Cafe Einstein, Berlin

Best American Cocktail Bar

Death & Co., New York City

Bitter Truth's Berg & Hauck chat w/ Bovis

World’s Best Cocktail Bar

Death & Co., New York City

World’s Best New Cocktail Bar

Mayahuel, New York City

World’s Best Hotel Bar

The Connaught Bar, The Connaught Hotel, London

American Bartender of the Year

Spirited Awards' house band

Murray Stenson, Seattle

International Bartender of the Year

Agostino Perrone, London

Best New Cocktail/Bartending Book

Vintage Spirits and Forgotten Cocktails by Ted Haigh

Best Cocktail Writing

CLASS magazine

Best New Product

Mad Men Sterling Cooper-style stage set-up

Celery Bitters, The Bitter Truth

World’s Best Cocktail Menu

Death & Co, New York City

Best Bar Mentor

Dale DeGroff

Best American Brand Ambassador

Charlotte Voisey, William Grant & Sons Portfolio

Bitter Truth acceptance speech

Best International Brand Ambassador

John Gakuru, Sagatiba

Helen David Lifetime Achievement Award

Brian Rea

Written by Virginia in: On the Town |
Aug
01
2010

On the Town

Winemaker dinners… intimate affairs where a winemaker comes to town, and shares a multi-course dinner with you as their wines are paired with each course. Not a bad way to spend the night. Especially with these two winemakers and their wines:

ARGENTO Winemaker Dinner at One Market

Place setting for Argento Wine Dinner

New Zealander, Nick Goldschmidt, is one of those rock stars of winemaking. This is reflected in his 20-plus years of experience as winemaker and consultant to wineries from Chile to Napa and Sonoma (he was Simi Winery’s winemaker & VP for 14 years), but also in his feisty spirit and frank opinions.

Nick Goldschmidt discusses wine over dinner

An entertaining and delightful host, he talked us through terroir and regions of Argentina and the winery he works with there, Argento. He has a rousing passion for Malbec and its accessibility.

If Argento’s Malbecs are any indication, he may be right about the future this grape has, even as it’s already become widely popular. 2009 Malbec ($12.99) and ‘09 Reserva Malbec ($15.99) are not only great values but wines I could envision with all kinds of meals. Tannic and fruity, there is balance and roundness. Sipping between the two, I had a difficult time claiming a favorite. I’ll take both.

Smoked Black Cod w/ Berkshire Pork Jowl & Guinness Glaze

I also tried their 2010 Pinot Grigio, ‘10 Torrontes (mineral, citrus stand-out of the whites at $12.99 a bottle), and ‘09 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon.

In One Market’s elegant, private dining room, we had a decadent cheese spread (Laura Chenel to start, then a range of cheeses, chutneys and nuts to finish) and meat courses. The highlight in a Lightly-Smoked Black Cod dish (paired with the Torrontes) was Berkshire pork jowl and Guinness glaze. Oh la la… pork and beer.

NY Steak

Roasted Sonoma Lamb Chop & Shank rested on green lentils, roasted garlic and bacon. The Reserva Malbec was at home with medium rare Almond Wood-grilled NY Steak in chimichurri sauce, Blue Lake beans, and a creamy, polenta-like corn base.

Enter a blissed-out food and wine-induced coma…

HELFRICH Winemaker Dinner at Bar Tartine

Helfirch Wines

Anne-Laure Helfrich is a surprisingly young, lovely, up-and-coming winemaker who was weaned on the vine, having grown up in the Alsace region in a family of third generation Helfrich winemakers. Working alongside her brother, Frederic, and winemaker, Benoit Pattin, she’s taking her international business knowledge and degree to further the reach of Helfrich wines around the world.

The lovely Anne-Laure Helfrich

Already counting Alsatian wines among my favorites, I was pleased to taste through six Helfrich whites, three 2009 wines – Gewurtztraminer, Pinot Gris, Riesling (all retailing at a reasonable $14.99) – and three more of the same wines but 2007-08 Grand Cru releases ($24.99). The Rieslings are both light and delicate, taking on a little more complexity as they warm up.

I prefer the honey-colored Pinot Gris, both the silky, fig, peach notes of the 2009, and the similar but more honeyed, rich notes of the 2008 Grand Cru. 2009 Gewurtztraminer hits with lychee and floral notes, warming up with a hint of clove. 2008 Grand Cru Gewurtztraminer intensified in floral, musky notes. All wines are a nice value and a welcome entry point for introducing friends (or yourself) to Alsatian wines.

Roasted (and stuffed) Bunny Leg

The setting for this dinner was one of my beloved restaurants: Bar Tartine. No surprise, Chris Kronner’s food paired happily with the wines. Summer salads refreshed, like Cresta di Gallo Salad ($13) with tomatoes, bacon, avocado, cucumber and fantastic fromage blanc. I love Kronner’s Savory Bread Pudding ($6) as much as I ever did. A dessert of Blossom Bluff Peach Pie ($7.50) with buttermilk ice cream pretty much encapsulates Summer’s goodness.

Decadent Braised Pork Jowls

Watch out for these two kick-ass entrees: Roasted Bunny Leg ($26) must have come from a mighty large rabbit. I was delighted when the juicy meat tasted a little of Thanksgiving filled with a stuffing, served with Thumbalina carrots, crescent potatoes, creme fraiche and dill. You’re pretty much eating a giant slab of silky pig fat with Braised Hog Jowls ($23) with grilled romaine hearts and sweet corn puree. You could deem it too fatty (though you’ll never hear that from me!) but when you get to the crispy bits of skin and char melds with the meat, it’s sublime.

Wine and food marry with ease…

Written by Virginia in: On the Town |
Jul
01
2010

On the Town

StarChefs RISING STARS REVUE – 6/16

**Photos thanks to Susannah Chen of YumSugar (www.yumsugar.com)**

SF StarChefs 2010 winners (this photo courtesy of StarChefs)

Fell in love with Matthew Accarino's (SPQR) Bone Marrow Flan w/ Smoked Bacon & Ciopollini Onions

Ghirardelli Square minus the tourists. A warm early Summer evening. VIP hour overlooking the Bay on a patio replete with fireplace, lounge chairs, champagne, Petrossian white sturgeon caviar on chips with creme fraiche and onion relish. Chefs, mixologists, sommeliers, industry folk, food and drink writers milling about. Not too crowded, well laid out, festive. Awarding some of the brightest in the industry. Sunset, then the radiance of the moon over the Square (plus heat lamps!)

Louis Maldonado's (Aziza) Marinated Striped Bass, Petrossian Caviar, Green Strawberries, Crispy Brown Rice

This was San Francisco’s StarChefs Rising Stars Revue, the culinary insider magazine’s annual awards for cutting edge creativity held in major US cities. Oh, and did I mention impeccable food? Not a bad bite in the house when StarChefs winners are serving the food, drinks and wine pairings.

Out of a 100% delicious menu, I’m hard pressed to pick favorites, but if I must (list of all winners here)…

Scott Nishiyama (Chez TJ) pulled out all the stops by shaving ice cold Moulard Duck Foie Gras “Neige” over blackberry, cashew puree, sunchoke salad and mustard toast. Wow. Who knew foie gras could be so brilliant ice cold, in a generous, melting pile of soft shavings? No surprise he won best dish of the night by event attendees.

Shelley Lindgren's (A16/SPQR) Sardines w/ Minted Pea Bruschetta

I was also impressed with Matthew Accarrino’s (SPQR) silky, panna cotta-like Bone Marrow Sformatino, enlivened with shaved horseradish, awesome smoked bacon and caramelized ciopollini onions. Kudos for A16/SPQR’s Shelley Lindgren’s (Restaurateur winner) bite: impeccably fresh, silky Sardines on minted pea bruschetta.

Did I say how difficult it was to mention just one or two? Every other dish, including desserts, were winners (not easy to do – believe me, I attend a lot of food events), truly highlighting why this group was awarded as some of the best in the Bay Area.

Thomas McNaughton's (Flour+Water) Ravioli Doppio stuffed with pork & peas

Two of my favorite guys behind a bar, Brian MacGregor of Jardiniere and Erick Castro of Rickhouse, were deservedly mixologist winners. MacGregor served a delicate (but with punch) Tippler’s Delight with Slivovitz (plum brandy), St. Germain, lemon and a dash of absinthe. Castro offered up a rousing bowl of Lusty Maritime Punch: Highland Park 12-yr scotch, yellow Chartreuse, lemon, ginger puree, simple syrup, sparkling water, ginger beer, Angostura bitters. Highland Park, one of my favorite scotches (read about my once-in-a-lifetime HP tasting from March), had its brand ambassador, Martin Daraz, in SF for the event and they were keeping us happy with 18-year scotch.

My taste buds and stomach thank you, all. This event hints at the talent that flavors our city. One of the things that makes every day here a joy and an adventure.

Written by Virginia in: On the Town |
Jun
15
2010

On the Town

PERSIAN PUB GRUB at ZARE at FLY TRAP – 6/3-5

www.zareflytrap.com

A divine Persian Chili “Ghormeh Sabzi”, my favorite dish of the night

It is a joy when our city’s food/drink greats team up to form something unique. Such was Zare at Fly Trap’s three nights of Persian Pub Grub, as envisioned by Zare’s chef/owner, Hoss Zare, and Monk’s Kettle’s Sayre Piotrkowski and Ryan Corbett.

Chicken Wings “Fessenjoon”

The exuberant, hospitable Hoss created a menu lovingly melding traditional elements of his home country of Iran with creative expressions. Though Hoss admits that “Pub Grub doesn’t really exist in Iran” (nor would the alcohol pairings), he dreams up a Persian dinner as it might look in a modern, hypothetical Iranian Gastropub. Each course was happily far from typical, and most were downright heartwarming. My two favorites ended up being Caspian Seafood Stew, a smoky, saffron-heavy broth (enhanced by black garlic aioli and sour, pickled grapes) loaded with plump calamari, octopus, mussels and smoked sturgeon with a dollop of caviar. The other? A brilliant take on traditional Ghormeh Sabzi, an Iranian herb stew and national dish, one Hoss says would win your sweetheart’s affection if you perfect in Iran. This Persian Chili was redolent of herbs, paprika, harissa, and a spicy, crumbled lamb sausage mixed with organic kidney beans. I could not get enough.

Sumac Couscous Salad w/ Dungeness Crab

Certified Cicerone, Piotrkowski, and his equally passionate-about-beer co-worker, Corbett, paired a stellar list of beers with Hoss‘ food, facing off directly with wine pairings from Zare’s Wine Director, Mario Nocifera. At two convivial communal tables, we debated which paired best with any given course, and I can honestly say there no afterthoughts on either side. But the final score? In my book, it’s two for two. 

Ryan Corbett walks through a beer tasting

My two favorite wines were the impressively elegant, layered acidity of Niepoort Codega’s 2006 “Tiara” white from Branco, Portugal, and an earthy, dark berry/pepper, mineral, but balanced, 2008 Borsao Garnacha, “Tres Picos”, from Campo de Borja, Spain (quite a value at $14.99 a bottle at K&L ).

On the beer front, though I was delighted to see Hitachino’s “XH” and Midas Touch for dessert, I was blown away by grapefruit brightness in Stone Brewing Co.’s dark, bitter Sublimely Self-Righteous, and the Belgian-style, caramel-y but bone dry Goose Island “Pere Jacques”.

Caspian Seafood Stew

Hoss has hosted other special Persian dinners and I hope will throw plenty more. Bookmark their website’s event page to be prepared for the next one. Or go for dinner or lunch to sample Hoss‘ heartwarming cooking paired with Reza Esmali’s Middle Eastern-influenced cocktail menu (there’s a classic cocktail list, too) or Nocifera’s wine list. Monk’s Kettle is thankfully always ready to pour one of these fine or other equally exciting, and often, rare, beers.

Beer pairings

Here is the Persian Pub Grub menu ($75 per person, including all pairings):

Sumac Couscous Salad with Dungeness Crab

Victory, “Prima” Pilsner, US| Yarden, Brut Traditional, Galilee Israel

Caspian Seafood Stew with Mussels, Cod, Sturgeon and Black Garlic aioli

Hitachino “XH” Ibaraki Japan | Niepoort Codega “Tiara”, Blanco, Portugal

Chicken Wings “Fessenjoon” with Pomegranate Walnut Sauce

Stone, “Sublimely self-righteous” Ale, US | Coroa Godello, Valdeorras, Spain

“Faloodeh” Lime Sorbet

Persian Chili “Ghormeh Sabzi” with Spicy Lamb Sausage

Goose Island, “Pere Jacques” Belgian Style Ale, US | Borsao Garnacha “Tres Picos”, Campo de Borja, Spain

“Faloodeh” Lime Sorbet with Rice Noodles and Pistachios

Dog Fish Head, “Midas Touch” Ancient Ale, Milton US

Written by Virginia in: On the Town | Tags: ,
Jun
01
2010

On the Town

MANHATTAN COCKTAIL CLASSIC – May 14-18

Bands on multiple levels... in the entrance of NYPL: jazz, Parisian, gypsy music

Build your own herbal cocktail w/ lime juice and, unfortunately, the base spirit of Veev Acai

I was one of the lucky ones, spending eight days in NY, my old stomping grounds, for the first annual Manhattan Cocktail Classic, highlighting and celebrating the art of the cocktail and its greatest talents. Or so I thought… I won’t gripe too much, though I will say that despite the stunning transformation of the already gorgeous New York Public Library (NYPL) for the Opening Gala, a scene rife with cocktail luminaries like Dale DeGroff, Audrey Saunders, Dave Wondrich, and some of the country’s best bartenders, the crowds were not quite the cocktailians I expected, and some events were far from what was advertised. For example: at the May 17 “contest” at Keen’s, the competition and notable judges had completely wrapped up and left before the listed START time of the event, leaving only a few cocktails to sample and the incomparably cool, old school Keen’s space to stand around in. Nothing short of false advertising. I could have spent the same money ($50 a ticket) with more exciting results at NY’s great bars.

Let’s recap a few of the best and worst moments of the raucous week that was the 1st annual Manhattan Cocktail Classic:

WORST

Wasteland: every available table looked liked this - and that's the most food I saw in 4 hours

1. Starvation – At the Opening Gala, despite spotting Mario Batali, the guy who had supposedly cooked up something special for the night, I never once saw his food. Every other whiff of food was devoured by the time I got near it. In the sweltering heat and humidity inside the NYPL, the one air-conditioned room in the building had a long wait to get in. Once I did, I saw others eating Fatty ‘Cue’s giant legs of meat. An odd “cocktail party” choice, but hilarious to watch others gnaw on a leg with drink delicately in hand. Again, I never got one. Once I finally got to the last table with food, the line was so long it wasn’t worth it, despite food-less hours endured with sips of multiple drinks (many of the fruity, vodka, soda, flavorless kind)… a bite never came until I hit a diner at 2am.

Outside the NYPL at 9pm, lines snaked down 5th Avenue: the first of many lines of the night

2. Non-Cocktailian Crowds at the Opening Gala – I expected a slew of the country’s and NY’s most hardcore drink fans: the kind that mix Jerry Thomas recipes at home, await Mud Puddle book releases, and value craft and taste above a “scene”. Um, try drunken carousers breaking glasses and leaving trash lying around in the historical NYPL? What about having your photo taken with vodka models? Seriously: you, a bottle of vodka, and sexy models in a brightly lit, LA-style photo shoot. And, yes, there was a long line for this one. Or maybe I’m still just creeped out by the Oompa Loompas or a giant, live Queen Victoria towering over us in the Hendricks’ Gin area (at least there was Charlotte Voisey mixing cocktails below the Queen). I ran into the hardcore, certainly, including many of my SF friends, bartenders and enthusiasts alike. But I was surrounded by the drunken carousers.

A creepy Queen Victoria towering over us

3. Events not as advertised – I’ve already mentioned the misleading representation of the cocktail competition at Keen’s and the drunken, packed-to-the-gills mayhem of the Opening Gala where check-in, getting a drink or even entering a room, meant yet another 20 minute wait. And where were the fine cocktails? Several came from our San Francisco crew who manned a number of tables (negronis!) and truly represented, at Dave Wondrich’s station (though his drink had run out by the time I reached the table – one disappointment after another!), and at the playful Willy Wonka-themed candy counter. But the majority of cocktails were forgettable, watered-down, fruity glasses of blandness… and that’s out of four floors of cocktails.

BEST

One peaceful respite: The Virgin Room

1. Astor Center bar/bartenders from around the countryThe Astor Center was ground zero for many of MCC’s daily events, panels and classes. The best part was having bartenders from all over New York and the country cover varying shifts. I met mixologists from St. Louis, LA, San Fran, Boston, and NY bars like Employees Only, Clover Club and Rye House. Not only did these guys whip up some of the better drinks of the entire event, but they were friendly, chatty, engaging, making the Astor Center feel like your favorite watering hole.

2. The Virgin Room at the Opening Gala – What is normally NYPL’s staid, lovely Periodicals Room became The Virgin Room, a detox refuge in the midst of the body-to-body storm of revelers, ego-tripping bodyguards and completely frazzled staff.

Candy dream cocktails at Willy Wonka bar

Coolers were stocked with energy drinks while the latest copies of Interview magazine lined the tables. Never mind that one couldn’t find a bit of water anywhere. At least I could read about Madonna staying sexy in her 50’s via lamplight.

3. Gin Masters – Let’s call this third one a tie between the gracious English class and knowledge of master distillers, Desmond Payne (of Beefeater Gin) and Sean Harrison (of Plymouth Gin), at the English Gin Seminar on May 16 where we did a side-by-side tasting of gins, including their own and the just released (unreleased at the time) Beefeater Summer Gin.

The ultra-cool Stork Club basement

4. The Stork Club – At the Opening Gala, one could catch a welcome respite from the oppressive heat of the rest of the building in the rarely seen NYPL basement, dubbed the Stork Club for the night. Thanks, Diageo, for turning the room into a relaxed but funky party with brassy Budos Band and proper cocktails, including a Bulleit Bourbon Mint Julep and a Mary Pickford made with Zacapa 23 year rum.

TOP DRINKS AT MCC

Don Julio's Delight at Astor Center bar

Ted Kilgore of Niche Taste Bar in St. Louis is a gracious and skilled bartender who mixed me one of his Niche standards, a Ruby Derby: bourbon, vermouth, agave nectar, grapefruit and Aperol.

Matthew Pomeroy, International Brand Ambassador for Wyborowa SA, took Luksusowa Vodka to some happy places with a Polish Fling: 2 parts potato vodka, 1 part egg white, 1 part lemon juice, fresh cucumber and dill. Now all I need is some caviar and blinis. A runner-up was A Smoky Fall: potato vodka, lime, orange juice, spicy ginger beer, and plum jam (normally he uses fig jam).

Jill DeGroff artwork at the Astor Center

- At the Astor Center, morning imbibement went down better after starting the day with Duque Spanish Brandy in Orange de Crema French-press coffee with Creme de Alba, Creole Shrubb and an orange slice.

Ted Kilgore at Keen's

- I couldn’t be unhappy with an Astor Bar cocktail utilizing Don Julio: Don Julio’s Delight. Anjeo and Bulleit Bourbon were shaken with amaretto, lime, agave nectar and egg white. Refreshing and bright.

- More breakfast-y winners at the Astor Bar from Rye House’s Jim Kearns: a Blood Mary trio including a Tabasco Red Snapper, Chipotle Mary and the best: Habanero Bloody Mary (tomato, lemon, Worcestershire, salt, fresh horseradish, pineapple juice, Annie’s habanero sauce, black pepper, jalapeno-infused Don Julio). Paired well with a delicious Crawfish & Andouille Egg Souffle.

The dramatic backdrop of Keen's animal heads & paintings for the Yellowtail Cocktail Contest

Written by Virginia in: On the Town | Tags: ,

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