Recapping WHISKYFEST 2011

Another year, another WhiskyFest. I’ve been attending a number of years now, ever relishing an opportunity to try unexplored whiskies, refresh my taste memory on others, and connect with whisk(e)y industry folk and distillers here from Kentucky to Scotland.

A number of options listed as VIP tastes (more than ever this year) were not, in fact, available at all. Some purveyors said these bottles hadn’t reached the States yet (like Isle of Jura’s Shackleton or Pierre Ferrand Ancestrale Cognac), but I find this a problem, particularly for those paying more to hit VIP hour for these rare tastes ($135 regular tickets; $185 for VIP hour).

One that WAS there however, was the soft, layered, fruity yet slightly oaky, Tamdhu 30 year from Gordon & MacPhail. Their Benromach 10 yr (available all night, not just during VIP hour) is surprisingly complex, with essence of cedar, nuts, smoke, and spice. Aged in bourbon casks, then finished off in sherry, it does not taste a full 20 years younger than the Tamdhu. I chatted with the company’s friendly managing director, Michael Urquhart, one of 3rd and 4th generations of the Urquhart family who own the company and have been making single malts long before they were ever marketed as a category.

My favorite VIP taste may have been Ardmore’s gorgeous 30 yr Scotch. Surprisingly light, it evokes coffee, caramel, dried orange and a long, gently peaty finish. I found this beauty at the Laphroaig table, where I also enjoyed another taste of Laphroig’s Cairdeus and Triple Wood whiskies).

Italian company Samaroli imports a number of special edition whiskies, but of greater interest to me were their unique rums, some layered and elegant, others funky, but all fascinating, particularly Caribbean2003, a rum that is predominantly Cuban, and a French-style rhum agricole: Guadaloupe 1998.

Bruichladdich, who wins for hippest, out-of-the-norm packaging, is doing some interesting things, particularly with their new gin (yes, I said gin), The Botanist. Though containing far too many botanicals (22 in all, from bog myrtle leaves to apple mint), somehow it manages to come together in a cohesive, smoothly refined whole. Their unique Black Art 2 whisky, an uber-secretive recipe that purportedly only distiller Jim McEwan knows, was aged in a range of unlisted barrels, possibly sherry, even wine casks, just like the first limited edition of Black Art.

High West Distillery in Park City, Utah, has a new bottled Manahattan cocktail. Though it’s a decent product, I couldn’t fathom preferring it to a freshly made (or barrel-aged at a bar) Manhattan. All initial barrels in Utah sold out in 8 days, so they launched the product beyond. I sampled their new 21 yr Rocky Mountain Rye, but actually preferred another new bottling:  OMG (meaning Old MononGahela, a Western Pennsylvania river) Pure Rye Silver Whiskey. They left the heads and tails left in, giving it a rugged, green profile of Meyer lemon citrus and rye spice, best enjoyed neat at room temperature.

Tequila Corrido, a tequila line I enjoy from start to finish, poured their new Extra Anejo from the first barrel to ever leave the distillery. It tastes of lemongrass, oak and chocolate, with agave actually detectable (a fault of many anejos when wood drowns out the agave).

Great King Street, a blended Scotch made by the Compass Box Whisky Company wasn’t my top taste of the night, but is a smooth blend of Lowland, Highland and Speyside single malts, lightly toasty with vanilla and spice. It’s fresh, classically modern packaging and approach of bringing back respect for blends make it stand out.

WHISKYFEST Seminar with Parker Beam & Alain Royer

My seminar of choice was the evening’s highlight, led by one of my whiskey heros, Parker Beam (who I had the privilege of meeting last year and chatting again with this week), and master Cognac blender Alain Royer of the Renaud Cointreau Group. Beam and Royer discussed Parker’s Heritage Collection 2011 release: a 10-year bourbon aged first in charred American white oak barrels, then 6 months in used Limousin oak Cognac casks. You wouldn’t know it’s a bracing 100 proof, as it goes down smooth, sweet and silky with maple, apple, and gentle spice. It might not be as revelatory as Parker’s Golden Anniversary or 27 year whiskeys, but alongside last year’s robust Wheated Bourbon, it’s yet another winner in Beam’s impeccable collection.

Only Heaven Hill, the company that makes Parker’s Heritage Collection (among my top bourbons of all time), can claim that since 1934 every drop of whiskey from their distillery (all their brands) is overseen by Earl, Parker or Craig Beam of the esteemed Beam family. They produce 900,000 barrels of whiskies out of 49 rickhouses across 30+ acres.

Parker ever charms with his slow-as-molasses (or maybe even slower) Southern drawl belying his feisty sense of humor. Keeping it real, he says, “If you want to make good bourbon, you make it in Kentucky. If you want to sell it, you damn well make it in Kentucky.” He sips one of Heaven Hill’s most popular, affordable whiskeys during his down time, however: “At home I kick back with our Evan Williams single barrel.”

In regards to joining forces with Parker to make Parker’s Heritage Cognac Barrel-finished Bourbon, Alain states: “When I tasted Parker’s bourbon, it reminded me of Borderies.” Known for their floral richness, Cognacs from Cognac’s Borderies region are often elegant beauties with heart, just like Parker’s Cognac Bourbon.

Parker talked about the process of deciding what this year’s special release would be (each of his annual releases are rare, limited editions): “We had some older products [older than his 27yr bourbon] that wasn’t up to snuff. I didn’t like it, anyway… To make Cognac bourbon we went gung ho, as we knew the bourbon was gonna be good… and we trusted Alain’s selection of barrels”.

Next to the final product, we sampled Heaven Hill‘s Bourbon Rye Mashbill (10yr bourbon, 100 proof) from new charred white oak barrels. Even in its raw form, the rye exhibits fullness and spice, coconut and vanilla. We also savored Alain’s Chateau de Fontpinot XO Cognac, aged an average of 18-20 years and produced on one single estate from ugni blanc grapes. It’s seductive with apple and apricot, subtly earthy with hay and wood notes, a sophisticated Cognac.

2011 SF COCKTAIL WEEK Cocktails

Here just a few photo highlights from this year’s bigger-than-ever SF Cocktail Week… read about the event here.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

CHEFS NIGHT OFF at Radius

Chefs Sarah and Evan Rich (who also happen to be husband and wife), come with a fine dining, creative pedigree cooking in kitchens of the caliber of Coi, Quince and Michael Mina. On August 29th, I attended their first Chefs Night Off pop-up dinner at Radius, and they are also hosting pop-up Fried Chicken Dinner at Rebel Bar (check their Facebook page for dates).

Their four-course, market-fresh dinner was peppered with amuse bouche/bites and palate cleansers in-between courses that showcased their inventiveness without being fussy. Though portions were small, by the end, one feels satiated, even healthful as each course is served with a light hand. I was impressed with fine dining complexity in the dishes but with a bustling neighborhood hangout vibe.

After the first amuse bouche of crispy corn fritters dipped in red pepper sauce, and a finish amuse of  red pepper gelee (reminiscent of a fruit roll-up strip) dusted with a sweet corn sugar, here were dishes we were served at the first Chefs Night Off:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Not all recommended wine pairings from Radius staff worked with my courses, but they have a fine wine list so better pairings are possible.

Wine highlight was Robert Sinskey’s 2010 Abraxas, a sophisticated Napa white blend of Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Gewurztraminer and Riesling. With crisp, clean grapefruit notes, there’s a gentle floral minerality that paired nicely with the watermelon/squid dish.

The next Chefs Night Off is Monday, Sept 26 (6-8:30 pm – make reservations), at Radius for $60 ( no drink or tip included). The menu is as follows (though there will likely again be amuse bouche between courses).

1st: Foie gras mousse, brioche crouton, pole beans, dill
2nd: Carrot soup, gnocchi, brown butter, coriander
3rd: Tomato braised oxtail, charred octopus, potato
4th: Mint semifreddo, chocolate, hazelnut

What Not to Miss during
2011 SF COCKTAIL WEEK
September 19-25th

For those of you who attended last year’s San Francisco Cocktail Week, you know it was jam-packed with some downright magical events, celebrating our city’s rich cocktail heritage, bar talent and innovation. Monday begins the 5th annual Cocktail Week, bigger than ever, with numerous national and local brands represented, an extensive schedule of seminars, parties, events, and the first ever Legends Awards honoring key contributors in the field.

I’d recommend Cocktail Week certainly for aficionados (cocktail/spirits geeks), but equally for the curious or those who plain love classy, transporting events. To name a few, the enchanting Cocktail Carnival Gala and St. George’s Cocktail Cookout last year were unforgettable for all of us lucky enough to attend. We basked in the glow of camaraderie and unparalleled settings like the historic Old Mint (where this year’s Barbary Coast Bazaar will be held) or along the Bay in Alameda. I’m anticipating more memorable events this year.

MAIN EVENTS include the first ever Legends Awards Gala, showcasing some of our best talent in a multi-course dinner from chef Jen Biesty (of Top Chef fame), cocktails prepared by some of our best bartenders at stations throughout the room, awards announced, with live music and performance interspersed. The list of 5 award winners (including Lifetime Achievement and Renegade awards), along with the all-star bartender line-up, is here.

This is also the first year for an event like Best of the West, where top talent from cities of the West (LA, Victoria, San Diego, Portland, Seattle, Sacramento, Las Vegas) compete with local bartenders, showing off drink style in each of their cities.

SEMINARS are a new addition this year. The line-up is rich with around 15 seminars. Learn how to stock your own home bar, about the science of taste, or the history of cocktails in San Francisco. Seminars are all held at the Boothby Center for the Beverage Arts (1161 Mission St., Suite 120, San Francisco), the non-profit behind Cocktail Week.

DINING EVENTS are being thrown all week by restaurants and bars, with special cocktail guests and multi-course menus, at bar-star restaurants like Bar Agricole, Heaven’s Dog, and Jasper’s Corner Tap.

AFTERPARTIES include the big shindig at the newly revamped Starlight Room atop the Sir Francis Drake hotel following the Legends Awards Gala (afterparty included in Legends Award ticket price).

Tickets and schedule here. Hope to see you there!

SF CHEFS Recap: August 1-7

Last issue I shared about one of my favorite food and drink events all year, SF Chefs. After attending every day, going home for naps and heading back out for evening mayhem, here are  just a few fond memories. My husband, Daniel Stumpf, assisted me with photos from Friday night and Sunday.

8/4 Sugar & Spice Party

 

 

 

 

8/5 Opening Party in Union Square

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8/6–Grand Tasting & Evening Party

I have less photos from Saturday, needing to take time off without lugging my big camera around. These photos are from the daytime Grand Tasting in the Tent, although the evening party in Union Square was another non-stop taste pleasure. It was, however, far too crowded; many chefs ran out of food by 9pm, so I missed a 3rd of the bites, whereas at all other events, I tasted almost everything (yes, I need a break!) Friday was better on crowds and food supply (selling point: was the night with heavy cocktail/bar focus), though both nights had bands that kept people dancing till closing time.

Saturday night’s after party with shimmering city views atop the Westin St. Francis was the best after party of the week, with gorgeous cocktails in vintage glassware from the Bon Vivants, spirits from Skyy, Negroni parfaits, and an all-star crew of Top Chef alums making memorable bites. We danced joyously into the night with the smooth funk of Hot Pocket and tight tunes from DJ Dojah. Please, may we have another one like this next year?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8/7–Grand Tasting Tent

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

SF STREET FOOD FESTIVAL
August 20 (11am-7pm)

La Cocina’s SF Street Food Festival keeps getting bigger each year. Gearing up for this Saturday’s 3rd annual street food extravaganza, prepare for a takeover of numerous Mission blocks (free admission, with food for purchase under $8).

This year there was an early sneak peek for media and select guests. There will be much to love at this year’s festival. Many food truck and street food favorites return, plus Ferry Plaza stars like Namu. Plus, just a few stand-outs the new-to-this-year front:

Wax Moth Larvae Tacos from Don Bugito – These pretty, little tacos are laden with crispy larvae, garlic, pasilla chiles, and pickled onions. Some popped them in their mouths without realizing what they were, others turned away once they heard… but to taste them is to overcome unfounded larvae prejudices. No need to fear bugs in the hands of owner, Monica Martinez. Plus, it’s a great conversation starter.

15 Romolo’s Jambalini - I’ve been touting 15 Romolo since day one. One of our city’s best bars is also home to some of the best bar food (just try their Challah at ‘Cha Boy, Nutella lathered on challah bread with fried bananas, bacon, and pickles!) Their Jambalini (jambalaya croquettes) are fried balls in the style of Italian arancini, with a Creole aioli for dipping. This has been a top bite at the bar for years. Thankfully, it’s also at this year’s Street Food Fest.

Rye on the Road’s Lawrenceburg Swizzle & Spicy Paloma – You’d want Rye on the Road at any party.  The experts behind beloved bars 15 Romolo and Rye are handling the bars at Street Food Fest. Watch for the snow cone-like fun of a Lawrenceburg Swizzle: Wild Turkey 101, maple syrup, lemon, Creole bitters, garnished with mint. Or go for a little heat with a Spicy Paloma: tequila, grapefruit juice, jalapeno syrup, salt.

Azalina’s Malaysian Bites – Azalina’s fills the far too vacant Malaysian food gap with a few Malaysian items, including a creamy, savory coconut chicken curry on green onion buns, perked up with spice, cut with blueberry cucumber pickles.

For the first time, there will also be six mobile vendors from across the country: The Peached Tortilla (Austin), The Arepa Lady (New York), Big-Ass Sandwiches (Portland), Skillet Street Food (Seattle), La Cocina grads Global Soul (Los Angeles), Ingrid’s Lunch Box (Madison).

Passports ($50-$250) offer discounts on food and eliminate cash purchases or you can just stop by for a couple individual bites.

SF CHEFS 2011: August 1-7

It’s SF Chefs, year three. I’ve covered the last two years here and in my Guardian column. For those of you who have not yet been, this has really become San Francisco’s biggest food/drink showcase (our “food & wine classic”, if you will), utilizing much of the Bay Area’s best talent. SF Chefs takes over all of Union Square, which stays tented for the week, with events, classes, grand tastings, nightly parties.

There’s something inherently magical about tented Union Square as cable cars glide by and tourists wonder what kind of fun is happening inside. After hours of tastings and music in Union Square, one walks to afterparties atop the Westin or other nearby locales, taking in city lights until the wee hours with dancing and, yes, more impeccable food and drink.

But with a week full of events, how does one begin to choose what to attend? I have been to most days every year and have some specific advice on what to make sure you don’t miss, depending on your preferences. Oh, and don’t forget to allow your stomach some recovery time.

IF YOU’RE A COCKTAIL HOUND or CELEBRITY CHEF FOLLOWER

Don’t miss Friday night’s Opening Celebration & Grand Tasting (6:30-10pm). Sure, the chef line-up is impressive. Everyone from Michael Mina to Tyler Florence will be there serving creative tastes of their food. It’s more than one can eat, especially if you attempt to sample from the over 35 chefs who’ll be there.

On the cocktail front, you’ll work double-time to keep up with the amazing bartenders and bars represented as they shake up special event cocktails. There’s fine bartenders at many SF Chefs events, but Friday night particularly showcases a larger number of our city’s best bars in one place.

There’s also plenty of wine, beer and spirits. You won’t suffer from choices. Chef Joey Altman and The Soul Peppers provide the live blues backdrop. Oh, did I mention that all tastes are unlimited with price of admission? That way you can keep going back for your favorites.

IF YOU WANT ALL THIS AND DANCING, TOO

Saturday night is another big shindig in Union Square, Decadence After Dark (7-10:30pm), with over 35 chefs, plus spirits, wine, beer, cocktails – again, all unlimited. There will be dancing along with eats from chefs like David Bazirgan of Fifth Floor and Thomas McNaughton of flour + water.

But don’t miss the after parties. Friday night’s mayhem happens 10pm-1am in private rooms at the City Club. With sponsors like Cigar Aficionado and Wente Vineyards, there’s cigars given out and Wente wines flowing along with cocktails, beer, chocolates, coffee, caviar, oysters, and desserts from Pastry Chef Leena Hung (The Restaurant at Wente Vineyards). Best of all the man who does it all Hubert Keller, is at the turntable.

Saturday night offers a second afterparty option, this one hosted by Top Chef All-Stars winner Richard Blais and SF-based Skyy Spirits, whose portfolio (including beloved classics Campari and Wild Turkey, and the delightful  Espolon Tequila). Chef Blais heads up a team of former Top Chef contestants (Fabio Viviani, Jen Biesty, Marisa Churchill, Mattin Noblia, Ryan Scott) for bites to go with cocktail creations by the Bon Vivants. There’s even more food from Dennis Lee (Namu) and Ryan Farr (4505 Meats) and music from DJ Hot Pocket and DJ Dojah so you can dance it off.

IF YOU WANT DEMOS & CLASSES with UNLIMITED TASTINGS

There’s individual classes during the week, but for a full feast, too, hit up the Grand Tasting Tent all afternoon Saturday or Sunday in Union Square. Both days each feature food from over 30 big-name chefs, like Hubert Keller and Elizabeth Falkner. But there’s also ongoing demos from chefs like Martin Yan, NY’s Cesare Casella, Fabio Viviani, and Gary Danko, while cocktail experts such as H. Joseph Ehrmann and Charlotte Voisey school you on spirits and cocktails. Watch for a Negroni cart where top bartenders will mix you a classic Negroni, a Sbagliato (basically a sparkling Negroni… with prosecco), or a Negroni variation of your choice (even better, Campari is donating $200 per hour the cart is in operation to support USBG’s Bartenders Relief Fund).

IF YOU WANT UP CLOSE & PERSONAL

Choose from an array of classes, demos and meals taking place in the Westin with a more intimate focus than you’ll get in bustling Union Square during the Grand Tasting Tent and evening parties. You could watch Chris Cosentino (Incanto) and Elizabeth Falkner (Citizen Cake & Orson) take on Dominique Crenn (Atelier Crenn) and Russell Jackson (Lafitte) in a chef’s challenge. Maybe you want to attend a demo with Tyler Florence, a bartender’s cocktail breakfast, a Wine Spectator Pinot Noir panel, Secrets of the Sommeliers with Rajat Parr and Jordan Mackay, or family cooking demo led by chefs Michael Mina, Craig Stoll (Delfina), and Gerald Hirigoyen (Piperade) and their kids.

A winning night last year was Thursday’s Sugar & Spice Party. Smaller than Union Square events, tastes cover palate extremes, while cocktails from key bartenders and local wineries are featured. The line-up is strong (including Hoss Zaré of Zaré at Flytrap and Mourad Lahlou of Aziza), but it’s manageable and memorable in the stunning mezzanine ballroom of the Westin.