JANNAH

1775 Fulton Street (at Masonic)
San Francisco, CA  94117
415-567-4400

Jannah is an affordable Middle Eastern restaurant, serving excitingly uncommon dishes. I credit chef Yahya Salih, who I greatly missed from YaYa days  and am delighted to see back in SF. I’ve written about Jannah since its July opening in my Bay Guardian Appetite column, and our Best of the Bay issue. Here’s a photo tribute to some of my favorite dishes, all under $11, unique, heartwarming.

301 Mission Street (at Beale)
San Francisco, CA 94199
415-543-7474
www.michaelmina.net/rn74

RN74… Michael Mina’s latest project, named after a highway running through Burgundy. Much has been said since its April 24 opening, most of it raving about the unparalleled 3000+ wine selection, heavy on the French, with treasures at every turn (and every price range). Responses to the food have been more mixed, including an early menu change that was actually a response to feedback on sizes being too small (I respect a restaurant that takes immediate action on input). I’ve also heard debate on it being “too fine dining” (those prices do add up), in “typical” Michael Mina fashion, for as casual a setting as it is, or if they should focus on small plates rather than multi-course options. Since I finished writing my review, Michael Bauer’s buzzed about three star review came out (on 6/28), giving it high marks.

Having been three times since opening week, for dinner (food priced at $9-31), lunch ($11-21) and in the bar, I’ve had a solid initial sampling, taking immediately to the industrial chic space with warm splashes of red and wine bottles highlighted on a French train station board. I find, in some ways, you can make RN74 what you want it to be, from special occasion meal to a post-work stop for bites with a glass of wine. I feel the space and service allow for all these scenarios.

The food? Well, a starter of  Smoked Sturgeon Rillettes ($9) is a pot of creamy heaven: smoky-fresh sturgeon mixed with creme fraiche, herbs, meyer lemon and toasts to spread it on. A highlight, to be sure.

Yes, I’m partial to Pork Belly, and RN74 does right by theirs, at turns decadently fatty and crispy. I had the dinner version ($19) with butter lettuce, cherries, pearl onion, black truffle cream and hazelnut vinaigrette.

Applewood-Smoked Sturgeon ($15) with fingerling potatoes (prefer the Sturgeon rillettes) and Italian Yellow Cornmeal & Mascarpone Agnolotti ($16) are both satisfying enough dishes, but what blew me away was the Foie Gras Terrine ($22). Currently, they’re serving it with Dijon mustard and grilled peach (works for me!), but when I had it, it was a divine melding of strawberry with buttery toasts, celery and poppy seed marmalade.  Sweet and silky.

A generous Organic Chicken Breast ($26) is pricey for what is certainly a less exciting meat, but trust them to elevate the bird: juicy, enlivened with fennel, apricots, brioche bread pudding, green peppercorns and watercress.

But, oh, those scallops! A supremely done scallop has to be one of the finer things and at dinner, three hefty, perfectly-cooked Maine Sea Scallops ($29) with tender Rancho Gordo beans, grilled Swiss chard, Meyer lemon were a among the best I’ve ever had. RN74’s Foie Gras and Scallops could follow me home and I would not turn them away.

Then there’s the wines… many a better expert than myself can wax eloquent about the glories residing in RN74’s extensive wine list from brilliant Sommelier and French wine expert, Rajat Parr. Some may get a rush from seeing the last remaining bottle disappear off the train station sign after they order it. I felt privileged to taste truly exceptional wines by the glass I can’t afford by the bottle (though there are many reasonably-priced bottles). Since my goal was to taste wines I may not always get to, my top picks (barring the Tissot Classique) are on the pricier end, but, once again, there’s a range on the menu:

• 2005 Vincent Girardin Puligny-Montrachet Chardonnay from Burgundy ($8.50 taste/$17 glass) – Citrus crisp with notes of rose and vanilla.
• 2006 Tissot Classique Arbois Chardonnay from Jura, France ($6 taste/$12 glass) – Reasonably priced but intriguingly complex and spicy; tops for taste vs. value… and from a woman winemaker, no less.
• 2004 Domaine Lejeune Pommard “Poutures” 1er Cru from Burgundy ($10 taste/$20 glass) – For someone who can tend to find many California Pinots, for lack of a better term, bland (I usually prefer Zins, Syrahs, Cabs), this French Pinot blew me away with subtle cherry and plum notes and an earthy mushroom complexity. Nothing like any other Pinot I’ve tasted.
• 2004 Betts & Scholl Hermitage Syrah from Rhone, France ($9.50 taste/$19 glass) – This captivating wine (92 points in Wine Spectator) has butter almond notes with a creamy finish.

Cocktails didn’t fare as well with me, though none I tried were poor by any means. All nice, they didn’t quite stack up to the ever-growing list of craft cocktails to be had in this town. At least, not yet. Ingredients are of top quality and recipes intriguing – it’s just not a cocktail destination. Especially with all the wines you must try!

Desserts ($9 each) are a happy finish, though not as striking as starters and entrees: I like tart Kumquat Confiture with coriander sponge cake, yogurt and white verjus sorbet, or rich Chocolate Delice with roasted banana and brown butter cashew ice cream.

Though costly, a meal at hip-but-low-key RN74 is cheaper than Michael Mina’s flagship and namesake fine dining destination (which remains a special occasion favorite for me).  If money is no object, there are dozens of revelatory taste discoveries here. For the rest of us, it’s a place to escape into vino bliss (from Mr. Parr to the waitstaff, trust them with informed wine recommendations), whether treated as a wine bar with fine food accompaniments or a fine restaurant with a stellar wine list.

Contigo

1320 Castro Street (at 24th)
San Francisco, CA  94114
415-285-0250
www.contigosf.com
www.inpraiseofsardines.com

My cozy ‘hood of Noe Valley hasn’t had a truly noteworthy restaurant opening in some time. Though we have one-of-a-kind places like Incanto and Firefly, we lack in top-notch ethnic food (which makes me sad) or a slew of above-average options the amount of which some ‘hoods have. But merely one block from my apartment is a new place worth trekking across town for. Brett Emerson’s Contigo is here. His passion for Spanish food, perfected in many travels to Spain and education from their local chefs (not to mention his Chez Panisse background), shows in each touch, from organic, humane food sources, to a back patio garden, to restored woods in a sleek, inviting dining room. This opening has been a long time coming, as chronicled in Brett’s delightful blog, but, the wait? Oh, so worth it.

A wood-fired oven glows as you approach the front door, and unless you arrive early, be ready for a wait as they do not take reservations except for six or more. Though only open since March 3rd, multiple visits show few early kinks to work out. Service is welcoming and food comes out in steady flow. With a thoughtful drink list of Spanish-predominant wines and sherries (white sherry is an ideal aperitif), beers from Spain and the US, and crispy Spanish Cavas (champagne/sparkling wine), some of my favorites have been from the Portuguese wines. They’ll give a taste or two if you’re not sure what to choose.

The menu is reasonably priced with three Pica Pica (small plates, some quite small) for $21, or $8 each, top quality Jamon (hams) for $9 each (three for $24), and large plates ranging from $12-19. The long list of highlights is, true to Spain, heavy on the salty, with lots of anchovies (Anchoas del Cantabrico is four perfect filets drizzled in olive oil), sardines sourced from Spain (Brett has clearly learned the art of preparing anchovies and sardines), salted cod, squid. But there’s plenty to contrast with the salty. I rave about the balance found in the Sardinas en Escabeche, a silvery gray sardine filet punctuated with blood oranges, beet relish and chickpea puree. It covers multiple taste sensations – probably my favorite Pica Pica thus far. Oxtail Croquetas are already a hit here and rightly so – fragrantly warm with oxtail meat (on an alternate night, it was the secondary but still great Croquetas de Bacalao, or salt cod fritters). 18 and 36-month aged jamons from Spain make an appearance, as does superb Benton’s Smoky Mountain Country Ham from Tennessee (a big hit at SF’s Slow Food Nation event last year).

Judiones a la Segoviana ($16) is a generous serving of juicy butter beans with silky pork belly, pig ears and feet… yep, it’s fun food, y’all. Coques ($12-14) are wood-oven crisped, paper-thin Catalan flatbreads covered with pleasing options like jamon, manchego cheese, artichokes, Basque sausage. I love the Coca del Mercat with Rapini (aka Broccoli Rabe) and Carmelized Onions, although the Coca Amb Beco is smoky rich with Benton’s bacon.

Buzzing from the glow of conversation over a long meal with friends, take one final journey through the dessert menu with Blue Bottle Coffee (served in a French press). A Blood Orange Lemon Tart finishes with a fresh punch, while Churros with chocolate seem to be an early crowd favorite (I wanted my churros a little warmer and crispier, but I did down that chocolate!) For a non-cake lover like myself, the “Pastel Vasco” Almond Cake was a pleasant surprise: fluffy, creamy, not dry, with a thin layer of ollalieberry preserves at the bottom. Olive Oil ice cream is an ideal finish to a tour ’round seductive Spain.

Many are already comparing Contigo to hotspot SPQR. Though similar in small plates structure and no reservation policy, they’re pretty different. I personally prefer Contigo to SPQR, which I enjoy but find somewhat overhyped and heavy on the fried (SPQR’s fried brussel sprouts are worth all hype, however). Contigo is certainly a much needed new dining destination in Noe, but more so, it’s one of those rare places that transports you to a pace of life as it should be, where attention is paid to detail and a warm welcome awaits.

TART FROZEN YOGURT (aka FROYO)

Though there’s never a reason not to have ice cream/gelato in my book, a great (if secondary) alternative is frozen yogurt. Not regular frozen yogurt, which I’ve always found bland and boring comparatively, but the ever-trendy tart, plain “froyo” (hate the term), healthy with cultures and probiotics… a guilt-free dessert.

Southern California’s widespread Pinkberry chain may have started it all, but many SF locales have met or improved upon that unusual taste. Though a ridiculous number of SF “froyo” openings (and even more ridiculous hype around said openings) makes me want to avoid the whole subject, once I got started, I couldn’t stop tasting, on the hunt for the best.

I tasted every flavor at each place listed, and took notes with each visit, rating and comparing flavors. The basic groundwork: you can get similar toppings at all stores – everything from cereals to fruits (like blackberries or lychees) to chocolate. They’re in a similar price range ($2.50-$6 on average plus toppings). Here’s my rundown of the great, good and not-so-great:

MY FAVORITES
So it’s a tie between…

YoCup: With two locations downtown (one in SoMa near the Embarcadero and one on Market Street bordering FiDi/SoMa), this place does me right with one of the best Original/Plain flavors I’ve tasted, and their bracing, tart Blueberry.

So Green: So they cost more than most (at $4.25 for a Small!), but the clincher for me is their tart, strong Green Tea (made with matcha). There’s playful, candy-like Strawberry (a changing seasonal fruit flavor), and a solid Original/Plain (YoCup makes a better one). I also like their not sweetened, ultra fresh smoothies, which can be mixed with cereal for a ‘to go’ breakfast if you work near FiDi’s Crocker Galleria.

OTHER GREATS

Jubili: In Lower Fillmore near Yoshi’s, Jubili hits the right notes with their Plain (Original), subtle Peach, and a light but flavor-rich Strawberry Sorbet. They also focus heavily on cereals so come for breakfast.

Swirl Culture: For all the controversy surrounding the opening of this North Beach shop, I find it one of the best with giant windows offering wide-open, street corner views as you down an excellent Passionfruit or Plain. Friendly and warm, it’s a great addition to the genre.

Yogurt Bar: In two locations (Cow Hollow and a brand new SoMa spot), I give it mention because it was the first around, really, when many were not yet open… They feature a changing, monthly flavor, which means some are better than others. I like regulars: Plain, Chocolate, Green Tea. Good on them, they recently lowered their prices due to the economy (see an explanation on the website)! I can get behind that.

AROUND the BAY

Fraiche Yogurt: This is Palo Alto’s spot for not only great frozen yogurt, but fresh probiotic, cultured yogurt (made from Clover organic milk; tart but not sour). Besides the fact that they bless the South Bay by serving Blue Bottle Coffee, I love their Valrhona Chocolate frozen yogurt, which is unique amongst all local “froyo” shops. They also serve a Soy frozen yogurt, which I like better than their Plain.

Yogurt Harmony: Downtown Berkeley’s answer to the craze. Though the store has less of a crisp, clean feel than others, they serve great frozen yogurt (highlights: Plain or Mango Tart).

NOT SO MUCH

Tutti Melon: I find this one the worst, which is interesting (or speaks for itself?) since it’s also the one with multiple SF locations (2 now with 5 more on the way!) I find the texture thin, less creamy than all others I tried (the fat-free aspect?), and the flavors (Plain, Green Tea, Mango), bland.

Yogen Fruz: This worldwide Canadian chain recently opened its first West Coast location in SF’s Embarcadero Center. I can’t say it’s a welcome addition to the scene. First off, the name. Secondly, unlike every other Froyo shop, you can’t sample first because they have frozen bars of fruit to “blend” with Plain yogurt so no pre-made flavors. The plus is: you can choose your own… but they’re frozen packets of fruit yogurt, reminiscent of Jamba Juice (did I just make that comparison?)

BELGIAN ALE HOUSES

The Belgian craze hit hard last year with three Bay Area openings… its not new news. But it’s good news. Here’s my take after they have been open a few months:

La Trappe: My personal favorite for atmosphere alone, made perfect by the beer selection. When you walk down a dark wood, winding staircase to the brick walled, candlelit basement, you’re transported. For me, it’s reminiscent of atmospheric basement bars I visited in Berlin (minus flames shooting out of the walls). The glow of candles and classic jazz playing over the speakers creates a relaxed, intimate vibe.

Sadly, expect a differing degree of enjoyment depending on which bartender you get. They’re all quite knowledgeable about the overwhelming range of beers both by the bottle and in the ever-changing, impressive tap selection. Out of the 138 beers in the regular menu, 113 are Belgians, many served in different shaped glasses with each beer’s logo on it.

The staff offer many tastes of tap beers to help you choose just the right one. In early visits, the bartender chatted up my group and I like old friends, serving us mini-glasses of just about everything on tap. But on a recent visit, another bartender said he might “get in trouble” if he served us too many tastes. Really?

A more unfortunate recent note was being told we could not eat our Mussels and Frites anywhere other than at the bar (or a dining table), when we already had staked out a cozy spot on the leather couches. It felt like we were kids being relegated to the kitchen table for fear we’d spill – when I asked why the change, they mumbled something about not having the necessary staff to clean it up. An odd reason, since they’re already cleaning up beers.

These inconsistencies breed concern, marring the overall experience. But having met one of the owners weeks after they opened, I see what a quality person he is and what vision he and his partner have for the place. I hope for consistency and growth as they pass the year mark. La Trappe has a magical environment and beer selection unlike any around – well worth trekking across town for (I go on quieter weeknights).

Pair your beers with savory dishes like Rabbit Stew or traditional Belgian Mussels and Frites, served three ways (I loved the non-traditional option of Mussels in Coconut Curry with Jasmine Rice). Most importantly, the Beer/Ale selection is full of rich treasures that will keep you coming back again and again.

Monk's Kettle

Monk’s Kettle: The space is small and waits are long if you don’t go on an “off” hour. But thank you, Monk’s Kettle, for being open all day, every day, providing plenty of hours one can hit this Mission treasure for a quiet pint or hearty ‘pub grub’.

With 24 draft beers and over 100 bottles, they’ve arranged the well thought-out beer selection by taste profile so you can satisfy any given mood with the right ale. The food is no afterthought: from artisan Cheese and Charcuterie plates, to hearty favorites like Chili, Burgers (Niman Ranch, of course) and Pulled Pork. There’s also a Pot Pie of the Day, gourmet entrees in the $12-18 range such as pork chops, chicken breast or beef short ribs. I love the Pretzel with Stone Ground Mustard and Cheddar Ale Sauce (I have to ask for more of both!)

The small room (formerly beloved Kelly’s Burgers) doesn’t allow much leeway for even the imaginative. But dark wood booths are squeezed in as pleasing an arrangement as possible given the tiny space, and the atmosphere is more about the food, drink and company you’re with, not special on its own, like La Trappe. I find the service more even at Monk’s Kettle; certainly well informed, with waiters and bartenders who love the drink and food they serve.

The Trappist

The Trappist: The Trappist is a narrow, brick-walled bar in Downtown Oakland that doesn’t serve food and offers little opportunity to sit. But in the Bay Area’s Trappist/Belgian Ale scene, it’s well worth mentioning for it’s 15 rotating taps and over 140 bottles of excellent beers. With “no big corporate beer” as their website motto, you can be sure that the beer/ale connoisseurs among you will come away satiated.

LOLO

3230 22nd Street (between Mission and Bartlett) San Francisco, CA 94107
415-643-5656
Hours: Tuesday-Thursday: 5:30-10pm
Friday-Saturday: 5:30-11pm

Yet another “fusion” restaurant, nonetheless Lolo has captured my fancy as a great Mission addition and a step above the average Nuevo Latino spot. Combining cuisines of the owners’ homelands of Mexico and Turkey (with an unwitting touch of Asia?), Lolo’s servers are affable, aiming to please. The décor is inviting, funky, colorful… all made from recycled materials. Bright fabrics line the couch along the wall, with eye-catching wallpaper, paintings, knickknacks, and cute, retro lawn benches out front. The place feels ‘homemade with love’, appropriate for the Mission’s creative spirit, without looking too grunge or garage sale.

If you focus more on small plates, the real highlight here, you’ll savor delicious, unusual dishes. The much hyped menu king is Panko-breaded shrimp “tacos” with chipotle aioli and tropical fruit relish ($8), which may not sound revolutionary, but on a tortilla shaped sheet of jicama, delivers a surprising burst of crisp flavor. The downside? You only get two to an order. Pistachio Salmon is another favorite of mine: crunchy on the outside, seared inside, with an ideal accompaniment of wasabi cream and ponzu sauce. The Huitlacoche & Ricotta Dumplings are paired well with a fluffy corn sauce, even if the idea of eating Huitlacoche fungus, otherwise charmingly known as “corn smut”, throws some off. Dubbed by the James Beard Foundation as “the Mexican Truffle”, a more appealing term for corn fungus, Huitlacoche, paired with ricotta, is a unique, mild, taste experience. The breaded Baked Brie pops with a delectable hibiscus-juajillo sauce.

On the entrée side, I like Duck Confit Tacos ($15), though the portion is too small to fill the hot, homemade tortillas (more confit, please?) The dish is perfectly simple, accompanied by cilantro and a piquant sauce. Grass-fed Flank Steak is charcoal-grilled and served with crispy tortilla strips, but its strawberry peach mole tasted neither like strawberry or peach, though still pleasing.

Wines by the glass are overpriced, hovering in the teens, so imbibe Tuesdays and Wednesdays when they’re discounted 30%. Forgoing wine, I like a not-on-the-menu creation they call “Madre”, a refreshing, generous blend of white wine with strawberry, orange and cranberry juices.

If Lolo could work out minor issues such as price vs. portion size (none of the dishes need be much bigger than they are – just a slight increase would do), this could easily become not only a great neighborhood joint but a unique destination serving dishes with flare and flavor so memorable, you’ll want to experience them again.

1300 on Fillmore

1300 Fillmore Street (at the corner of Eddy)
San Francisco, CA 94115

415-771-7100
www.1300fillmore.com

Hours:
Monday-Sunday: 5-11pm
Lounge: 5am-1am

The South enchants me.  Even as its beliefs and mentality feel far removed from the essence of me, I cannot help but be profoundly drawn to its music and food as if it has long been a part of my roots.

Thus my craving for Southern food in all its forms: BBQ, Creole, Cajun, and so on.  California is not without these foods but they’re certainly not plentiful.  So when a Southern spot opens in my city, I am there, looking for hints of what I’ve tasted in travels through the Carolinas, Georgia and Tennessee… or that Queen of Southern cities: New Orleans.

1300 on Fillmore opened about three months ago in the same building as the new Yoshi’s jazz club, a welcome addition in the attempted revitalization of San Francisco’s former jazz heavy, “Harlem of the West”: Fillmore Street.   Enter the gorgeous lounge/bar area of 1300 and witness an ode to Lower Fillmore’s past in an illuminated wall of photos featuring many of my jazz heroes from John Coltrane to Ella Fitzgerald singing at the clubs that once lined this street.  Though such luminaries are no longer alive (and without peer today, even in a sea of excellent jazz musicians), the idea of this street bursting with jazz clubs again thrills me.

Sipping cocktails in 1300’s lounge as you sink into the brown leather couch or comfy armchairs, is an evening in and of itself, and well worth your time.  A small selection of appetizers grace the bar menu for a hint of what the kitchen is concocting.  With entrees ranging from $18-$29, the restaurant sure isn’t cheap, but my dining experiences thus far have been worthy of celebrations as well as perfect for a group.

The service is delightful, personable yet not too chatty.  The staff seems as excited about the place as I am, sharing menu items and favorite dishes with relish.   Each time I’ve visited, both chef and owner greeted my table, offering stories of their vision for a Sunday Gospel Brunch soon to come (yes!!) and the woes of securing a cabaret license, which they are very near to gaining, for regular live jazz in the restaurant.

The menu is “Upscale Southern”… certainly with modern, California touches, infusing some of the best elements of Southern cuisine.  It reminds me of elegant restaurants I enjoyed in Charleston (like Anson) or Savannah (Bistro Savannah) where inventiveness met tradition in the most satisfying way.

Favorite dishes?  Their hominy Grits in multiple forms, tasting like stone-ground, gourmet grits I ate in the South, not at all like what may very well be “the real thing”: bland, cream-of-wheat style mush (which I also like!)  Order grits as a $13 appetizer withBarbecue Shrimp (also on the Lounge/Bar menu) or as the perfect accompaniment to Beef Tenderloin, scented with Blue Cheese.  Another favorite appetizer is Braised Pork Belly on White Bean Puree ($11), which dissolves tenderly in the mouth.   On a low note, the side of Caramelized Sweet Onion Ham Hock Braised Greens ($6) was surprisingly bland despite a seemingly surefire seasoning of ham hocks.

Maple Syrup Slow Braised Beef Short Ribs ($28) is a decadent entrée piled with onion rings on top of buttermilk chive mashed potatoes.  The aforementioned Grilled Tenderloin of Beef ($29) plays rousingly well with Blue Cheese Hominy Grits and balsamic onions.  The Pork Chop ($25) with apples and chicory, is likewise heart (and gut) warming.  Seared Salmon ($25) is nicely executed yet fails to excite my taste buds but for its accompanying “Lobster Mash” with juicy junks of fresh lobster meat.   Fried Chicken ($21) needs extra prep time (30 minutes!) but comes out in a huge serving, crispy and moist, with truffle whipped potatoes and biscuits.  It gives Firefly’s (www.fireflyrestaurant.com) famed Fried Chicken dish a competitor, yet I think Firefly still comes out slightly superior.

Dessert offers large Beignets with an intriguing shot of coffee soda and addictive dark chocolate dipping sauce, an always pleasingBananas Foster, or a rich, not-to-sweet Sweet Potato Bread Pudding.

Though it’s too pricey to frequent 1300 as much as I’d like to, the glowing service, atmosphere and savory, shining food makes this a new San Francisco favorite and a welcome sign of things to come on Lower Fillmore.