Top Tastes, rather than a list of all-time favorites (another thing altogether), is highlights of the best things I’ve been eating since my last newsletter, often from new openings. Many don’t make the cut, being a revisit previously written about or simply not as stand-out as dishes mentioned.

CHEESE

• At an unbelievable Highland Park 1968 Vintage Tasting on 2/17 (see Imbiber), Will Edwards of SF Cheese School, led us through a cheese pairing with five HP scotches. It didn’t always sound like it would work, but it did. All five cheeses were thrilling, from a gorgeous, balanced Abbaye de Belloc, produced by Benedictine monks, to the brilliant butterscotch of Saenkanter Gouda. Who could choose favorites among such uniquely different cheeses? I couldn’t believe the grainy, melt-in-your-mouth intensity of a goat’s milk Bleu du Bocage… surprisingly, it did not overpower HP’s 25-year scotch. Isle of Mull Cheddar (from Scotland, naturally), is a memorable ivory-colored cheddar made from happy cows who’ve been ingesting spent whiskey grain. If this is an example of the wide-reaching range of cheeses Wil can lead you through, I’d sign up for one of his classes at the Cheese School now.

CHEAP EATS

• There’s been a recent resurgence of interest in humble little Mexican panaderia, King’s Bakery, when 7×7 added their Coconut Buns to Big Eat SF 2010. Sprinkled with sesame seeds, the slightly sour/savory roll is stuffed with sticky, sweet coconut. Bliss for 50 cents.

• A Middle Eastern dinner at brand new Tuba on the corner of Guerrero and 22nd is a soothing experience. They may not have a liquor license yet and there are a few service kinks (well-intentioned, as it is), but the space is warm, red, with bejeweled pillows, mellow music, and enchanting window-side seating. Food is fresh and appealing, stronger than many a similar Middle Eastern/Mediterranean spot. Love Esma ($6), a spread shaped in two round dollops, loaded with tomato and red pepper paste, walnuts, ideal with the warm, sesame-dusted bread you’re given at the outset. Icli Kofte ($7) is among the better versions of  ground beef in bulgur wheat (puff pastry-like) I’ve had, improved by a light sour cream-like sauce underneath.

• The Middle Eastern neighborhood restaurant trend continues with brand new Yemeni’s in Polk Gulch/Tendernob area. Half the menu isn’t yet available, it seems, but the owner and staff are sweethearts, and the food (baba ghannouj, warm from the oven Yemen bread, and a strip steak/hummus dish) were all fresh, flavorful and cheap. You can fill up for under $10.

MID-RANGE RESTAURANTS

• Under the same striking horse sculpture made of car, tractor and motorcycle parts, there’s a new chef at Urban Tavern, a conveniently located restaurant that could be a ‘go to’ when in Union Square. I enjoyed dinner there back when it first opened but a subsequent visit to the bar hinted at a decline in food and cocktail quality. Enter new exec chef, Colin Duggan, and my latest visit. While good times can be had at the bar with Hobbs Bacon “Tato Tots” ($5) or Warm Gruyere Cheese Puffs ($5) and their fine Maple Bourbon Sour ($11), I was pleasantly surprised to find that my decent starters were clearly outshone by the entrees.

I’m still reflecting on the fall-apart, meaty tenderness of Braised Beef Short Ribs ($22), a generous dish cooked in red wine, fresh horseradish grated on top with sides of potato puree, green beans, carrots. Paired with a glass of ‘06 Obsidian Ridge Cab ($13), it was a velvety mix of richness and a perfect Winter meal. Nearly as exciting was the Fish Du Jour ($22), an artistic presentation of Petrale Sole over a leek/garlic/white wine puree, jauntily accented by bits of chorizo sausage, artichokes and potatoes. I have zero complaints about the ‘PB Cup’ ($9) for dessert, with a crispy sea salt brittle and caramel gelato. Five hours of free parking (call them for instructions) only seals the deal… I’m eager to try the new lunch menu next: maybe a dip sandwich (prime rib, lamb or turkey) or a Spicy Caggiano Beer Sausage?

• A weekday getaway lunch on Belden Lane brings the usual, welcome European feel. Trademark is the newer kid on the alley, taking a more old-school American approach with a steak and oyster menu – and another place to ingest Joanna’s amazing Meetinghouse Biscuits. I’ve never been blown away by a Belden Alley restaurant, but there’s a certain comfort when I sit amongst business lunch-ers, European expats, and sweet older gentleman with Fedoras eating beef brisket solo. I couldn’t help but befriend a side of Buttermilk Vidalia Onion Rings ($5). A mix of of endive, grapes, walnuts, gorgonzola, and spicy maple vinaigrette in Celery Root & Fuji Apple Salad ($10), bordered on too sweet but for the occasional balance brought by the gorgonzola (more of that would have helped nicely). Dungeness Crab Three Cheese Melt ($16) is a pricey sandwich, but it’s a  filling one, loaded with warm crab meat, melted Colby cheddar, Pt. Reyes Blue and pepper jack, served with coleslaw and fries. Finish off with espresso and listen to the old guys next to you rant about the weather and politics.

Top Tastes, rather than a list of all-time favorites (another thing altogether), is highlights of the best things I’ve been eating since my last newsletter, often from new openings. Many don’t make the cut, being a revisit previously written about or simply not as stand-out as dishes mentioned.

SPECIAL OCCASION – A Feast to Remember

After years of longingly perusing Oliveto’s emails about their annual feasts (and having always enjoyed meals and impeccable service there over the years), I finally went to their legendary Whole Hog Dinners this month… Oliveto’s Bob Klein was hosting these dinners long before it was trendy to throw the whole hog and butchering dinners we’ve seen proliferate in recent years.

The meal is one orgiastic feast from start to finish. Come starving and you’ll still walk away stuffed, swimming in Potatoes lightly fried in rosemary and pork renderings ($6.50) or spreadable Catalonian salumi and Tuscan wild fennel salsiccia cruda: Sobressada & Sbriciolona ($15). Even those fearful of tripe, could find no fault with Sardinian Pork Tripe ($14) braised in saffron and mint, mixed with aged Provolone and crouton-like Polenta adding crisp to the tomato-rich sauce.

Friulian Bread & Pork Dumplings (Canederli; $16.50) are served in a pork/date sugo, sweet and salty melding with the sticky density of perfect dumplings. Take in the glory of a giant leg of Wild Boar Bacon Chops ($24), charcoal-grilled and cut with the citrus of blood orange wedges and a vegetable salad.

Blissfully sick on pig, my top two dishes in a night of hits, were Choucroute Garni ($31): sauerkraut with a fatty, gorgeous spit-roasted pork Pastrami, a lightly blackened hunk of lush Pork Belly Rib, and a classic Frankfurter. The other dish I wish I could eat about 10 of: Boudin Blanc ($16), served British Wellington-style in a puff pastry with Bhari dates adding sweetness to the savory white sausage. Hallelujah!

There could not possibly be room for dessert, so only a bit of heaven could allow the exception… paired with a dark, crema-rich espresso, a Valhrona Chocolate-Caramel Tart ($10) was basically buttery caramel with a layer of dark chocolate and two candied strips of pancetta languishing across the top. Add in a pinch of vanilla sea salt and I slept the night away awash in sweetly salty dreams.

MID-RANGE RESTAURANTS

Lucky we are that our city’s latest Izakaya is such a welcome addition in a quirky, diner setting on Mission Street with two narrow rooms: one diner/bar side with booths, and room full of tables. Nombe’s CIA-trained Exec Chef, Nick Balla, is equally skilled in rare Japanese dishes as he is in sashimi presentation. After choosing from an impressive sake selection or Japanese beers on draft, dig into plump Chicken Heart skewers ($4) or lightly fried Brussels Sprouts ($5) redolent with mint, carrot and lots of lime.

Step into rare territory with specials like Karasumi ($12), or basically, salted mullet roe, a high-priced delicacy in Japan. Balla serves three strips of the house-cured karasumi with bitter greens and a perfectly cooked egg, the yolk breaking and covering the dish in a filmy layer of goodness.

The meal’s highlight was the Sashimi Platter ($38 for 5 different fish, serving size for two people). A work of art, it was a fine of mix of straight fish and creative presentations like Tuna temari “balls” made from tuna, nori and sesame, or Ocean Trout with an egg ever so lightly torched on the top. As far as fish goes, Bigeye Tuna was the silkiest and toro-like. Nice touch to have whipped nagaimo and fresh wasabi with it. Dessert could be an afterthought, but if it’s Beignets ($7) with Seville orange jam and creme fraiche, it’s not. They melt, light as air, in your mouth.

They just launched a brunch I can’t wait to try with Japanese flair married to American breakfast sensibilities. I like the sound of Balla’s nod to a Tuna Melt: poached ahi tuna on grilled sourdough with melted cheddar and fried egg ($12). Nombe, I could really grow to love you.

CHEAP EATS

• You’ve heard me go on before about how much I love Kat and Ryan’s awesome, affordable Southern food out of the back room at Excelsior dive bar, Broken Record. We all lost something special when they left, but they’ve thankfully resurfaced in recent months, more centrally located at Bruno’s. The gang’s all here, from their rockin’ BBQ sandwiches (Pulled Pork, Brisket, $8) to comforting Hush Puppies ($5) with chili-apple butter and dreamy, divine biscuits. Only their sausages didn’t show up here, but there are plenty of great ones in this town so I’m ok to make room instead for Chicken & Sausage Gumbo ($13), Low Country Shrimp & Grits ($11.50), panko Mac N’ Cheese ($6) and those super-meaty Spicy Buffalo Wings ($7) I was crazy about from Broken Record days. Thankfully, you can still save room for Toffee Crack ($1) at the end of your meal… yes, that’s dark chocolate-dipped matzo.

• I’ve written a number of times over the years of the glories of Joanna Karlinsky’s Meetinghouse Biscuits… Her fairly new cafe that is “more than a cafe“, Sweet Jo’s, in the Jewish Community Center (JCC) holds some treasures beyond those dreamy biscuits, not the least of which is Joanna herself. She’s a true New Yorker who makes me homesick for my East Coast days and the frank sincerity of NY/NJ folk. She infuses spunk and care into pizzas ($11.50-$23) named after Jewish Biblical women, like Hannah (eggplant, spinach, feta, caramelized onions, red peppers) or Sarah (white garlic sauce, mozzarella, goat cheese, butternut squash, sage)… all quite tasty.

Chili comes in vegetarian and meat-based versions, plus there’s an array of sandwiches. Her Lucky Dawg ice creams are all-American, rich, thick – I’m partial to Chocolate Caramel Brownie, caramel swirl with crisp from the brownie. At a media dinner, I enjoyed conversing with Joanna and sampling an array of what she offers. I’ve also been for breakfast, grabbing coffee and flaky, buttery scones (like Lemon Currant). It’s a fine neighborhood go-to for a range of eats on the run or to eat-in at the JCC.

ICE CREAM

• I’ve given Humprhy Slocombe boatloads of love (while alerting many a previously unaware friend) since they opened a year ago – but if ever it were deserved… My flavor of the moment is Pepper Mint, cubeb pepper with Valhrona Chips. I’ve also been enjoying their SF Beer Week flavors like Blue Frog Scottish Ale and Speakeasy Prohibition Curry. Beer in ice cream? Hell, yeah! Best news of all, though, was when they started selling their ice cream at the Delessio near my house… since I moved from 24th St, it was a longer trek to get my fix. No more.

• Berkeley’s Ici is even costlier than the already ridiculously overpriced ice creams out there. Though that’s always been its downside for me, at least it’s delicious. Latest favorite? An Anise Almond Grappa Raisin.

Top Tastes is my usual run-down of favorites. Rather than a list of all-time favorites (another thing altogether), it’s highlights since my last newsletter, often from new openings. Many don’t make the cut, being a revisit written about before or simply not as stand-out as dishes mentioned.

SAVORY – MEAT

• My birthday dinner this year was a GOOD one: I finally made it to Daniel Patterson’s Coi. I could not possibly choose one top course, so a few may have to be named. Understated and muted as the dining room is, service is impeccable, Patterson himself delivers some of the courses, and gently hip sounds of Radiohead and Zero 7 set the backdrop for a blissful, hours-long meal. The Renaissance Man and I ate our 11 courses ($125 per person) over about three hours, savoring the range, creativity and precision of each dish. Sizes only appear small – at about the 8th course, I was getting full. I have to say it: their famed Slow Cooked Egg, served with crisp chicken skin and broth, Swiss chard, farro, is all it’s cracked up to be (oh, I loathe puns and here I am succumbing!) Texture, flavor, perfection.

SAVORY – SEAFOOD

• Bar Crudo has long been a seafood, and certainly crudo, favorite of mine since its original FiDi location, now in roomier (though missing some of the charm) Divisadero digs. There’s little I’ve ever had here I don’t just love, from the creamy dream of a chowder to crudo perfection. A Crudo Sampler ($12/23) is a great way to try a few, while a recent addition of Rhode Island Fluke ($12 for 4 pieces), with a kick of jalapeno, coconut milk, citrus, basil, mint, is topped with none other than chicharrones.  Could it get any better?

• Another Coi highlight was grilled Monterey Bay Abalone. Tender, it rocked the a la plancha treatment, accented with Meyer lemon, shellfish vinaigrette, and puntarelle (in the chicory family). A truly approachable abalone dish.

SAVORY – VEGETARIAN

• Coi, take three: creativity flavor combo points for Sunchoke-Buttermilk Soup… the buttermilk broth poured tableside over a gelatin-like sunchoke disc. The kicker comes in unexpected additions of Asian pear, cocoa nibs and mint.

• Potrero Hill’s new Mediterranean (in long-timer Eliza’s space), Pera, is working out new opening kinks but gracious service isn’t one of them. They’re hospitable, willing to chat and explain dishes (from Turkey, Greece and beyond). Meze (small plates) give me a chance to try more. I like the fresh meat of Cannellini beans in Fasolaki ($7 at lunch) contrasted with bright lemon vinegar, tomatoes, red onion, olive oil and scallions, topped with a boiled egg.

• By no means the best pizza in town, Local Kitchen & Wine Merchant’s Point Reyes Blue Pizza ($16/$21) with mozzarella, Pt. Reyes fabulous blue cheese, cherry tomatoes, oven roasted tomatoes and basil, still hit the spot on a recent brunch. Sunday nights it’s all-you-can-eat pizzas for $12.95 per person, which is the real deal.

• Bernal Heights’ new East-meets-West bakery, Sandbox, is mostly French pastries mixed with Asian baked goods. Pastry chef, Mutsumi Takehara, comes from a high pedigree: La Farine and Chez Panisse (the West) and Slanted Door (and the East). A welcome little addition to the ‘hood, in my initial visit I was impressed with a Sticky Bun ($2.25) – truly perfecting the ’sticky’ – and a Negi-Miso Challah ($2.25), a savory roll laced with miso and scallions.

SWEET

• Oakland’s Lush Gelato rolls out holiday and seasonal flavors with a lovely (and boozy) egg nog, a meaty-fresh pumpkin and a fine cinnamon. I still gravitate towards their year-round classics like fresh mint chip, tasting like a creamy mint herb garden.

• Back to Coi once more for dessert: though there were two dessert courses, both delicious, my favorite was Steamed Kabocha Squash Cake, a little moist cake reminiscent of a fine gingerbread or pumpkin bread, but more airy, with accents of apple, pomegranate and genius addition of garam masala spices.