Top Tastes, rather than a list of all-time favorites (another thing altogether), are among the best eats since my last newsletter, often from new openings. Many don’t make the cut, being a revisit previously written about or simply not as stand-out as dishes mentioned.

EXPENSIVE RESTAURANTS

BENU, SoMa – Let’s get this out of the way now: yes, Benu is a noteworthy new fine dining destination from former French Laundry executive chef, Corey Lee. And, yes, it will take you weeks, if not months, to get a reservation, though it just opened (I made my reservation a month before it opened or I’d never have gotten in).

Let’s say you forgo the $160 tasting menu required for the whole table, which is way too much  for a non-special occasion, and opt for a la carte? The bill still came to $300 for two with four courses and two glasses of wine each, and though Benu is ‘the whole package’, I couldn’t help but recall recent visits to Commonwealth and Sons & Daughters, assuredly less refined experiences in terms of atmosphere and service, but when it comes to food, have a similar ethos, abandon and presentation… for less than half the price. I’m just saying.

For those able to drop this kind of cash, it’s a welcome addition to our fine dining scene The dining room is understated, a total transformation from the former Hawthorne Lane/Two space. You won’t recognize it.

Lighting and minimal artwork in the intimate side dining room create a clean, minimalist feel. But the space feels museum-like and sterile if it weren’t for truly gracious service. I went merely one week into opening and they already had service down like a well-orchestrated concert… other than system billing issues that caused a 15 minute delay in getting my bill.

The staff made it all right with their unobtrusive attentiveness and warm smiles. Two somms recommend wine pairings: Head Sommelier, Yoon Ha, and Sommelier, Michael Ireland.

The meal begins with the gratis bits: Buckwheat Lavash with nori, a crunchy, paper-thin flatbread, delicately hot with chili. Then a lovely amuse bouche: Spherification of Tomato with cucumber and Summer blossoms in a dashi broth. The tomato sphere explodes, while the skin of the sphere dissolves, allowing the full flavor of the tomato to coat the mouth.

As is all too often the case, first courses stole the show. Paired with the sweet dill and mustard notes of a 1996 C.H. Berres Spatlese Riesling from Mosel ($11 a glass), I was immediately wowed by Snapping Turtle Veloute ($16), a lush broth with bits of turtle meat poured over Langoustine (small lobster) and vegetable matignon. This dish was the young, vibrant girl of the menu: intelligent and full of promise, playful and enticing.

Veal Sweetbread Grenobloise ($14) with cauliflower, parsley, lemon and caper was none too shabby. Though I prefer the turtle dish, this is an impeccable sweetbread creation. Add in a glass of 2008 Depaquit Chablis ($11) and I moved on to pastas. Egg Tagliatelle ($16) with chicken liver, chanterelles, tomato, chive blossoms, is perfectly-executed pasta ribbons… but somehow the overall dish bored me a little. Thankfully, my thrills came in the other top dish of the meal (along with the turtle): decadent, lush Carnaroli Risotto ($22) with sea urchin, corn, lovage and black truffle.

Big Fin Squid ($26) with summer squash came off a bit bland but for squid ink pain de mie, a soft bread dark with squid ink that soaked up olive oil – a unique play on texture and color.

Sea Scallops ($22) are a lovely rendition, if not above other equal or superior versions of this type of dish. Certainly cabbage, white miso, turnip, fatty bacon and green apple make happy scallop partners.

Berkshire Pork Loin ($28) with smoked belly, black soy beans, sauteed lettuce and clam sauce is, once again, not an uncommon dish, though the clam sauce was ridiculously addictive. I wished for more of it with the dry but tasty pork loin – and the presentation was a step above the usual. Dry-aged “Pre-sale” Lamb Rack ($30) with garlic sausage, potatoes, lemon peel and coastal succulents is a well-crafted lamb dish.

The biggest “wow” post-Risotto came with a subtly intriguing dessert of Blackberries ($12) accented by Douglas fir meringue on top of a candy cap mushroom sable giving a little crunch to the softness of natural cream and blackberry sorbet.

SONS & DAUGHTERS, Downtown/Union Square – Sons & Daughters is exciting like eVe in Berkeley or Commonwealth in the Mission are exciting: young, visionary chefs creating fine dining worthy dishes with molecular touches… at insanely reasonable prices. In the case of Sons & Daughters, it’s a $48, four course prix fixe (four wines added for $36). A la carte dishes range from $9-24. It almost seems a given I would return to a place like this long before I’d return to Benu (above) due to quality-to-price ratio alone. I actually prefer the intimate chic of Sons & Daughters‘ black and white, chandelier glow, feeling like a European bistro with a romantic, youthful edge.

So many highlights… can we say, nearly all dishes? Kumamoto Oysters ($9 for 3, $16 for 6, $22 for 9) topped with a tinge of fresh horseradish and yuzu in celery juice are a briny, delightful intro. Herb Salad ($11) is a surprise of garden joys and delicate curds and whey over quinoa. Eucalyptus takes it to regions salads don’t always go… it feels like diving nose first into a vibrant, exotic garden.

Salmon Tartare ($12) doesn’t rest in its usual fatigued territory. This one offers the crunch of potato chip with miso, chevril, juniper berry and runny quail egg. Sweetbreads ($18) please, as they usually do for me, but this version, again, ventures away from typical by adding fresh Dungeness crab, garbanzo beans, baby greens and a Djion mustard foam into the mix.

A brilliant dish, my top one of the meal, is Seared Foie Gras ($24) with a glass of tart yogurt and Concord grape granite. Silky (foie) pairs with silky (yogurt), while the granite casts a bright, refreshing zing over the rich dish.

Squab Breast ($22) comes appropriately medium rare with a confit leg, chickpeas and potatoes. Buffalo Loin ($22) is equally well-prepared, accented by barely and onion, with a dollop of herb puree.

One dessert is essentially a glass of Melons with Watermelon Sorbet ($7), ratcheted up a notch with basil seeds on top. My ecstasy dessert moment came with Chocolate Truffle Cake ($7), however. Oozing warm, reminiscent of molten lava cake, the earthiness of truffle with chocolate sent me to bed with delicious dreams. But add in fresh spearmint ice cream and crumbled pistachios and it’s all over. Consider me a fan, Sons & Daughters.

Young Wine Director, Carlin Karr, offered welcome pairings, particularly the honeyed spice of a 2005 Chateau Haut Peyraguey Premier Cru Sauternes with Foie Gras, 2009 Domaine du Salvard Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire with the Herb Salad, and 2008 Green & Red Chiles Canyon Zinfandel with the Squab.

JARDINIERE, Civic Center – Sitting at the bar for a last ‘hurrah’ from bartender extraordinaire, Brian MacGregor, before he heads off to Delfina’s soon-to-open venture, Locanda, I ate what could be just another (lovely, no doubt) Heirloom Tomato Salad ($16). The addition of Padron peppers changed the whole tone of the salad. Salty Castelvetrano olives, piquant peppers and sweet, luscious tomatoes melded beautifully over arugula, while croutons added crunch. I could eat this one often.

MID-RANGE RESTAURANTS

DARTEALING LOUNGE, SoMa – Dartealing Lounge is my new go-to tea shop. It’s a darling, restful respite, well-spaced out (unlike, let’s say, crowded Lovejoy’s) and the food is actually quite good.

On a non-descript SoMa block, you go out of your way to be rewarded with  delicate tea sets, comfy chairs and flavorful sandwiches (I particularly like Chicken Curry). They do scones and Devonshire cream well, too – another important tea factor. There’s a range of tea services with food and bottomless pots (from $15-25), but everything is a la carte as well, making this an ideal lunch stop. I was won in by its charms immediately and feel already, even though merely open a few months, it could be the best smaller tea house in SF.

ROCKETFISH, Potrero Hill – You’ve heard me mention Rocketfish before, a regular lunch stop near my office at the Guardian.  My recent dinner visit yielded the surprise of creativity outside of the usual fish and sushi offerings from their gifted chef, Kenichi Kawashima. He serves some fine tempura or delicately fried calamari (with Fresno chilies), but if you ask for what’s in season, you might get Japanese and lemon cucumbers wrapped around red miso quinoa.

On the specials’ board, Pig Ears ($4) sauteed with garlic and lime, are a savory treat, sure to convert those afraid to eat an ear. They’re also on the regular menu with a radish and cucumber salad.

Unexpectedly, a stand-out dish is Farmers Tomato Salad ($7): heirloom tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella, which is ever one of the purest and best combos possible, but not something you’d look for at a Japanese restaurant. Here it takes on a whole new dimension with caramelized fennel, honey balsamic and ume salt. I truly love this dish.

I was surprised at cocktail quality: The 88 ($8) is the right balance of herbal, refreshing and spirituous with gin, maraschino, lemon, grapefruit and thyme… and is refreshing with fish and tempura.

CHEAP EATS

51st STATE, SoMa street cart - 51st State’s concept is a fun one, especially for a street cart: feature different American regional dishes in approachable, street food form. Maybe it’s Brunswick Stew ($8) from Virginia/Georgia? Or Wild Long Grain Rice & Potato Pancake ($7) with sauteed mushrooms from the Pacific Northwest.

You know I went straight for the South: Cornmeal-dusted Quail ($9) with jalapeno cheddar grits and spiced maple syrup to dip the quail in. Add in a side dish of Texas Caviar ($3 – black-eyed peas to you) with sweet bell peppers, tomato and cilantro, and you have a gourmet spread. I’ve eaten from many a street cart and the food at this one is superior to many, particularly the excellent quail. Not to mention they park in a cul de sac near the Embarcadero with radiant Bay Bridge views making this taste journey round the country a quintessential San Francisco experience.

KITCHEN KURA, Inner Sunset – Kitchen Kura may not be the best Japanese food around but it is a delightful haven of peace and quiet on Irving with KDFC tuned in for classical music in a tiny, homey space.

With self-proclaimed “homemade Japanese food”, the draw for me is an Okonomiyaki menu, those Japanese “pancakes” I am crazy about but don’t see often enough. Though I’ve had better versions from places like Namu, I like that Kitchen Kura offers seven different versions that come out piping out in a cast iron skillet, such as the Osaka ($7.99) with octopus, red ginger and green onion.

Top Tastes, rather than a list of all-time favorites (another thing altogether), are among the best eats since my last newsletter, often from new openings. Many don’t make the cut, being a revisit previously written about or simply not as stand-out as dishes mentioned.

MID-RANGE RESTAURANTS

COMMONWEALTH, Mission – I’ve been a fan of Mission St. Food (Mission Burger and Mission Chinese Food, too) since inception, so I made an immediate reservation (second day after opening) at Commonwealth from Anthony Myint and the awesome MSF team. It’s great to see former Bar Tartine chef Jason Fox back on the scene as chef here. Though I mourn the closure of the free-spirited St. Food and Burger concepts, I am glad to still have these guys on the scene, now in an uber-chic, cozy space serving $60 tasting menus with molecular gastronomy touches.

I chose to order more affordably a la carte so I could try more dishes (the whole table has to order the tasting menu), even as I wanted the tasting-menu-only Salt-Cured Foie Gras and Goat cooked in hay.

I started with a liquid nitrogen aperitif, The Narwhal ($11 – visions of LA’s The Bazaar in my head). Slushie-like, it’s a frozen blend of Floc de Gascogne, sake, ambrosia melon and lime. It awakened the taste buds, packing a boozy bite. If only there were more ‘cocktails’ like this on offer (they only serve wine and beer, though it’s a fine selection).

The meal started off high with Crispy Pig Ears ($5) on a julienned pile of carrots and radish. Spiced with chili, they were essentially entirely addictive, fatty chips. Shishito Peppers ($5) come in an unusual presentation of goat cheese foam and cream-colored rose petals.

Compressed Watermelon ($10) held loads of flavor, accented by nori, tofu, cucumber, wild greens and togarashi spices.  Potato Gnocchi ($11) does what gnocchi should: it dissolves in your mouth with a buttery sigh. This gnocchi is accented by corn, maitake mushrooms, sage, Parmesan and truffle oil. Fluke Crudo ($14) is a minuscule few slivers of fish but memorable with peach and jicama slivers, rose gelee, and Douglas fir tips. You know I get jazzed by this kind of free-spirited creativity.

A couple cutting-edge pleasers are warm Corn Custard ($15), dotted with sea urchin, chorizo chunks, jalapeno and foamed with lobster emulsion. Then there’s Marrow-stuffed Squid ($12), juicy with tamarind pork, shelling beans, black garlic and cilantro. Marrow oozes out of plump squid and all is right with SF’s dining scene (far from “figs on a plate”?)

Summer Squash ($9) comes in the form of a chilled soup, refreshing and nuanced with vadouvan spices, though the star is delicate, melting fried squash blossoms on the side. More, please.

The dishes I was less enthused about are Brown-butter poached Skate Wing ($13), fine enough with cauliflower and sea beans in a dashi broth, but not particularly memorable compared to the rest of the meal. Young Hen & Spot Prawn ($16) sounded exciting (I adore spot prawns), but I couldn’t quite taste the chocolate or almond in the emulsion and spinach and artichoke bits did little to enhance it. Also, where was the hen?

Dessert ($8 each) left a final impression of balance with Cinnamon Mille-Feuille, a cardamom marshmallow, chocolate ganache and burnt honey ice cream. The cardamom lingered with me throughout the night. A playful take on a White Russian was coffee ice cream, vodka gelee, raw milk mousse and genoise cake. Each part came together seamlessly, evoking the spirit of that dessert cocktail.

As the disco ball in the rafters above added sparkle to the dining room, I left expectant of what this restaurant could become in the SF dining scene.

ZERO ZERO, SoMa – I visited the new Zero Zero twice after opening week to get a good feel for Bruce Hill’s latest, as he’s behind spots I’ve long loved, like BIX and Pizzeria Picco in Marin. This hip new SoMa space feels like one ongoing party, both on the packed Monday night I first came in, and an even more mobbed Saturday night visit. I am more a fan of upstairs or the bars (love that they have a bar both upstairs and down), whereas my second visit I was initially sat in a booth  in the corner downstairs by the kitchen. It felt almost corporate and non-descript in that corner, and we were surrounded by three tables full of families with little kids. Not my ideal for a Saturday date night with my husband.

Upon request, they graciously moved us upstairs, surveying the bustling crowd below. Though it’s noisy everywhere, the vibe is more grown-up upstairs under a fabulously creepy mural of food and Pinocchio (look for it!) Here I was energized by that festive spirit once again.

I am as weary as any food reviewer of the overdone Neapolitan pizza craze, though I could never tire of pizza. And Zero Zero’s are fun (if sometimes bordering on soggy), rounds of blistered crusts and heartwarming toppings. Market Pizza ($13.50) has house mortadella, Padron peppers, mozzarella, roasted garlic and oregano. I prefer the simple, oozing goodness of Margherita Extra ($13.95) with buffalo mozzarella, Parmesan, basil, De Padova olive oil and tomato sauce.

On the appetizer front, Crudo ($9.75) are delicate, if minuscule, fresh tastes of the sea. Of Albacore Tuna Crudo (with Padron pepper bits, sea beans and coriander aioli) and California Halibut Crudo (with long pepper, lemon, crispy shallot and olive oil), I’d take the latter, the fried shallot adding a savory onion dimension to the fish. Pressed Watermelon Salad ($8.95) didn’t impress as much, but Ricotta-stuffed Fried Squash Blossoms ($6.95) satiate with a winning broccoli raab pesto.

I was won over by Sweet Corn Agnolotti ($12.95) with country ham, pickled peppers, Straus butter and capers, even if portion was quite small. It’s pillowy, buttery and meaty. Soft-serve Straus vanilla, chocolate, or swirl ice cream is an inspired dessert choice, not because you

haven’t seen it on menus before (such as the one at Pizzeria Picco), but because you haven’t seen it quite this way in hip SF restaurants of this nature. It’s a mix & match dessert menu, where you can order soft-serve on it’s own ($4.95), with a base like cinnamon waffle or double chocolate cookie (another $4), and a range of toppings (50 cents-$1 each) from caramel to candied peanuts. There’s also toppings you see at Pizzeria Picco, my top choices: Da Vero Olive Oil & Sea Salt or Strawberries & Manodori Balsamic Vinegar.

One big misstep for me in these initial two visits has been the cocktails. I’ve tasted four and all but one came off watered-down and lacking flavor. It’s not my mode to send things back unless they’re awful (and I’ve only done that twice in my lifetime, though I eat out a good 10 times a week). I actually considered sending these drinks back. But the complaint of “not being strong enough” never comes off well, even if it was true over both visits.

It’s too bad as the drink menu sounds delicious: Plum Smash ($10) muddles plum (a welcome slant) in my beloved bourbon with  lemon and mint. But despite the use of 100 proof Old Forester bourbon, the cocktail tasted like bourbon-scented water, not something I usually run across in this drinking town. A Jalisco Sour ($12) treated me the same, but redemption came in the form of The High Smolder ($10): Tres Agaves Anejo, pineapple gum syrup, lime, and nectarine jalapeno marmalade. This one had robust flavor and brightness.

Better to stick with fine choices from wines on tap or by the glass (in nice range of glass through 1liter options). I adore fruit and bread notes of a 2009 Palagrello Bianco “Caiti” Alois from Campania ($12 a glass), and found a 2007 Nebbiolo Langhe Cascina Ca ‘Rossa ($12 a glass) from Piedmont an ideal pairing with the pizza.

CHEAP EATS

SYCAMORE, Mission – Sycamore, oh, Sycamore… besides being an ideal Mission fit of casual eatery with good beers and wines, happy hour prices and sliders (I like the BLT Slider – $3), the real highlight is Sycamore’s Famous Roast Beef Sandwich ($8) on grocery store-reminiscent sesame buns with BBQ sauce and mayo – a sandwich tributing the roots of the native Bostonian owners. The beef is pink, shredded, both soft and dense, dissolving in your mouth. I feel like a kid again eating this sandwich.

PAPITO, Potrero Hill – Papito surprised me. From the Maktub Group, behind Chez Papa/Maman (yes, French background), I guess I wasn’t exactly expecting authentic Mexican food.

This is certainly a fresh take on Mexican, but I was delighted at just how palatable their Tacos (2 for $8) are. Duck Confit Tacos (Carnitas de Pato) are sweet (with tamarind sauce) but meaty little beauties contrasted with house pickles, habanero peppers, mint, cilantro and chipotle. I am picky about fish tacos since So. Cal. days. Their Baja Fish Taco doesn’t disappoint. In a Negro Modelo beer batter, there’s no fishiness to the rock cod with chipotle remoulade and purple cabbage slaw.

Elote Asadao ($5) is a juicy cob of corn, burnt and hardened on the ends, but sweet and juicy overall, covered in mayo and queso cotija cheese with lime and chili salt to add as desired. Instead of being smothered in mayo and cheese, as is traditional, this version has a light covering allowing all tastes to come through without overwhelming.

As Papito is near my work, I look forward to returning for Churros with chocolate ($5 – they were out on my first visit), Guacamole Papito ($6) and Enmolada ($13) – braised chicken with Oaxacan mole. The space is tiny and the kitchen a bit slow when busy, but it’s a surprisingly welcome Potrero Hill addition.

BAKED GOODS

GOODY GOODIE, SoMa – Goody Goodie is a delightful bakery window in SoMa, ideally paired with Vega’s (next door) Blue Bottle Coffee or fine Macau Iced Coffee. I enjoy their cookies (kudos for a mini option), especially “The Circus” with candy popcorn and semi-sweet chocolates. But a couple weeks ago, I was more intrigued by an Olive Cocoa Nib Wafer ($4.50 per paper-thin slab). Olive oil cured, it’s bitter chocolate, earthy and light. As the owner described meat and cheese pairings, I could almost taste the blue cheese or duck confit on top. Yes.

BAKER & BANKER BAKERY, Pacific Heights – I’ve already written of this wonderful restaurant, one of the best to open last year, both in this newsletter and for the Guardian’s 2010 Best of the Bay issue. In the last two weeks, Baker & Banker finally opened their next door bakery. Four Barrel coffee awaits along with ridiculously buttery, goopy Cinnamon Rolls, rich Peanut Butter Chocolate Bars, scones, cookies and cakes. You won’t hear me complaining.

Top Tastes, rather than a list of all-time favorites (another thing altogether), are among the best eats since my last newsletter, often from new openings. Many don’t make the cut, being a revisit previously written about or simply not as stand-out as dishes mentioned (for example, I appreciate Rocketfish opening by my office in Potrero Hill, though don’t have a stand-out menu item to share yet in my initial three visits. The remodel from the former Lingba space is now bright blues and browns).

MID-RANGE RESTAURANTS

HEIRLOOM CAFE, Mission -   The menu is simple: there are merely six items total, including appetizers and entrees, one $50 prix fixe option, three cheeses, and a couple desserts. But each is done to perfection, as such a brief menu should be, with more than a little Chez Panisse ethos, focusing on ultra-fresh, pristine ingredients. Opened by Matt Straus, who came from LA’s Grace to the city he calls “the best place in the world to me“, his passion for wine shows in his thoughtfully chosen wine list, ranging from $8-19 per glass, with an older wine list available by request. Sip a lush 2008 Chateau Musar Rose from Lebanon ($8 a glass), or a 2004 Lopez de Heredia “Vina Cubillo” Crianza from Rioja, Spain ($11 a glass).

With a juicy mountain of Heirloom Tomatoes piled over toasted bread and a mix of pickled fennel, cucumbers and feta ($11), the melding of this uber-fresh dish with the Rose becomes revelatory. But the Bacon Onion Tart ($11) is equally brilliant: flaky, doughy pastry loaded with sweet, caramelized onions and meaty bacon. One of the best onion tarts I’ve ever had. 

Potato Gnocchi ($15) is not exactly traditional in style or texture, but you will love it just the same: pillowy, lightly toasted, with crisp corn, mushrooms and a spicy house fennel sausage. A dessert of tart Plums & White Nectarines with a crumble and Straus vanilla ice cream atop ($10), continued the meal’s trajectory of perfection in straightforward language. In a dining room that’s Victorian country kitchen circa 2010 Mission, it’s one all-around satisfying experience.

GASPARE’S, Outer Richmond – Though I’ve been to Gaspare’s before, an old school bastion of East Coast-style Italian with individual booth jukeboxes, fake, plastic grapes and straw-covered wine bottles hanging from the ceiling, it’s always been just for pizza.

My latest visit, I ordered an array of pasta, from Spaghetti with meat sauce ($12), to Eggplant Parmigiana ($13.75), then a Caprese Salad ($7.75) and Garlic Bread ($4.50). But nothing transported me back to my Jersey high school days so much as the divine Baked Lasagna ($13.75), oozing with cheese, meat and the reddest of red sauces, lightly sweet, heavy on the savory, as good as home.

SPIRE, SoMa – Just back from New Orleans, I was happy to assuage immediate pangs of loss in leaving the South by visiting brand new Spire, whose Executive Chef, Laird Boles, is native to beautiful Charleston. The space is modern, industrial, clean, if not particularly memorable, but touches of the South on the menu intrigued. I’ve merely tried two dishes so far and they just began serving dinner (it was lunch only initially). Each staff member is genuinely warm and their friendly welcome, along with the promising menu, makes me ready to return.

Whenever I see Shrimp and Grits ($11) on a menu, I have to order it. But having eaten that dish in Charleston, Florida, New Orleans (just had a brilliant version at Le Petite Grocery last week), and with stand-out versions in SF (at 1300 on Fillmore, or the best at Brenda’s), Spire’s lemony grits, flavorful as they were, did not hold a candle in taste or texture to the best. But I did appreciate plump shrimp and juicy toy box tomatoes in tarragon-chardonnay butter. I was won over by what is a worthy change of pace from mac ‘n cheese: cheesy Oven Baked Spaetzle Gratin ($8), with gremolata and truffle infused throughout. More, please.

Top Tastes, rather than a list of all-time favorites (another thing altogether), are among the best eats since my last newsletter, often from new openings. Many don’t make the cut, being a revisit previously written about or simply not as stand-out as dishes mentioned.

EXPENSIVE RESTAURANTS

THERMIDOR, SoMa – The Mad Men craze is a natural for me as that era, from clothing to music to cocktails, has never gone out of style in my book. Whether through the Swingers/swing scene craze in Hollywood back in the 90’s, to the Mad Men resurgence currently, I’ve been collecting vintage dresses, obsessed with classic films and listening to records since I was a girl.

So as soon as I hear Thermidor is opening with a circa 1960’s/Mad Men vibe, I’m in. Even better that the menu is rife with classic dishes of the era. I am completely appreciative of the fact that they’re doing something different instead of the usual understated decor and Cali-fresh, charcuterie & pizza or pig-heavy menus. Not that I am not crazy about all those… I love anything done well. But I am ever grateful for a place that doesn’t just copy what is already there in abundance but seeks a lesser traveled road.

I love the look of the place: wood walls, white/Jetson’s-like vintage chairs, chrome chandeliers, wood paneling and high ceilings… 1960’s chic. The bar is inviting, with completely open doorways opening onto Mint Plaza. I’d return to sip the successful take off a Moscow Mule, the Warsaw Mule (cocktails all $9). It’s made with Bison grass vodka (one this non-vodka drinker likes), organic apple juice, lime, sunshine bitters and ginger beer. It’s refreshing but bracing, with a unique, layered profile.

I was intrigued by the Iceberg Daiquiri, not being the kind of thing I normally see on menus or would order. Thankfully, it wasn’t sweet, rather strong with a white rum/maraschino liqueur kick, a whiff of vanilla, and tart from grapefruit and lime. But I can’t say I ever want to go back to blended drinks days – I got ‘brain freeze’ from first sip, waiting for the drink to melt more before I could finish it.

I’ll get this out of the way now: portions are small in most cases, making prices too high for what you’re getting. The Renaissance Man and myself spent over $100 and didn’t leave full. But… what we had was by and large delicious. Excited as I was for a bit of Chips & Caviar ($6), I’ve had better versions at dinner parties (this one has smoked trout, creme fraiche and caviar on house-made chips).

On the $6 Hors d’Ouevres menu is Crispy Cauliflower, grilled in lemon and mint and quite satisfying. Celery Victor is puzzling (sounded so old school I had to order it). The first two celery stalks were fried and decent dipped in tartar sauce but were really just fried celery.

When I got to the third stalk, it had a white anchovy layered under the fry (as was listed on the menu) and suddenly perked up. I think they made a mistake: each stalk was supposed to have an anchovy? It transformed the appetizer.

A Mini-Lobster Roll ($15 – deal alert: there’s a full sized roll at lunch for only $3 more) was truly mini with nothing more than a side of (admittedly fabulous) pickled Tokyo turnips. I go on lobster roll hunts and though I’ve never had better than at Pearl Oyster Bar in New York, this one pretty much kicks ass. The brioche roll has the perfect combo of light crisp and melting softness, while the lobster is plump, sweet, coated in butter. Lobster Thermidor ($32), the priciest pinnacle of the entrees (otherwise $21-26), is disappointingly small (half a little lobster) but is ridiculously good, baked in the shell with brandy bechamel sauce and half of a twice-baked potato enhanced by crispy skin.

Next time I’ll go with our gracious waiter’s recommend for dessert (all $8.50): Caramelized Poppyseed Cake with thyme ice cream. Initially I had to order the one everyone is talking about: Coffee, Cigarettes & Doughnuts. Though I appreciate the notes of Jim Jarmusch in the dessert’s moniker, I couldn’t taste even a hint of tobacco in the white chocolate custard, nor much carrot in the carrot cake doughnuts. Coffee ice cream over crumbled, dirt-like cookie crumbs, was the highlight of a dish higher on presentation than taste.

I look forward to my next visit to this thankfully unique new restaurant, though thinking economically, it’s going to be for lunch or Chicken Kiev and cocktails at the bar.

MID-RANGE RESTAURANTS

HOG & ROCKS, Mission – I went to a test night of this brand new (sure to be) Mission hot spot, Hog & Rocks, so though I plan to return soon, this initial take comes with the caveat of a number of menu items not yet being available and kinks still being worked out. The space is spare with stainless steel and black, plus plenty of communal seating, and a focus on hams (hog) and oysters (rocks).

I was pleased to see tasting notes listed under the oysters – this should be standard. I sampled G&W Hamery’s 10-month aged ham from Murfreesboro, TN, with whiskey-glazed peanuts and cress salad, as well as Broadbent’s medium hickory smoked ham from Kuttawa, KY, with frisee and cherry tomatoes ($9-11 a platter). There are five hams to choose from, sliced thinly/prosciutto-like, and eight oysters ($1.50-2.50 each), though the menu changes for each.

Cocktails ($7-9) are classics like a Whiskey Sour, Tom Collins or a Hurricane (with the awesome idea of $1 of the latter going to New Orleans’ Gulf Coast Oil Spill Fund). At pre-opening, bartenders were still being trained and the cocktails I tried were solid, though lacking in the finesse you might find in the same drinks elsewhere, though the price point is good.

Wine and beer lists are short but thoughtfully chosen (delighted to see an Austrian Zweigelt among the 6 reds), with nods to the welcome, growing trend of a few kegs of wine available by the glass or carafe, and all available in $3.50 half glasses (wish every restaurant did this).

As for the food, it’s a smartly chic menu under $14 of dishes like Fish Pie ($14), Sweetbreads with piquillo peppers ($10), Corned Beef Tongue ($9) and Pickled Sardines ($9). Sadly, none of those were available pre-opening, but I did try Cast Iron Octopus ($10), pleasing enough grilled, with potatoes, pickled jalapeno and a ham vinaigrette.  Chicken Wing Confit ($10) is a generous portion of boneless chicken wings (not sure where the confit part comes in?) in a buffalo wing-style hot sauce with blue cheese dip. My favorite bite (besides sampling the hams) was Crab & Artichoke spread in a jar with Levian bread ($8). There are four different spreads in a jar (the Pimento Cheese, $6, with baguette is creamy, Southern satisfaction), and it’s in their most playful menu items such as these that Hog & Rocks shows its promise.

GREENS, Marina/Fort Mason – It’s a rare restaurant that survives 30 years. But to survive while maintaining a high standard in the kitchen is even more rare. This year is the 30th anniversary of Greens, the first high profile, upscale vegetarian restaurant in the country, with the lovely, warm Annie Sommerville as Executive Chef… and they have maintained.

The anniversary is a fine reason to return to a place I frequented more often when I first moved here nearly a decade ago. Though the space has remained the same with simple,  streamlined decor, stunning views of the Bay, Marin and Golden Gate Bridge remain the setting’s star, while the menu showcased the glories of Summer.

Current menu highlights: Grilled Blossom Bluff Peaches ($12) were improved, if that were possible, by Bellwether Farms‘ incomparable fromage blanc and a dab of Snyder’s wildflower honey, while fresh watercress tasted herbal, grassy. I’ve had a lot of corn cakes in my day, but their Ricotta Corn Cakes ($11.50) are among the finer with crispy white corn accented by jalapenos, scallions and smoked cheddar. House creme fraiche, fire roasted tomato salsa and pumpkin seed cilantro salsa accompanied.

On the entree side, Masa Harina Crepe ($23) is tortilla-reminiscent, made with corn masa, but a light, paper-thin crepe. More corn played prominent with peppers, poblano chilies, and grilled onions piled inside, accented by salsa and creme fraiche. I couldn’t taste chipotle lime butter on the accompanying grilled grazzini squash. I loved Summer Vegetables (carrots, squash, etc…) Indian Curry ($21.50 large; $17.50 small), a curry rich with coconut milk, ginger, tamarind, chilies, on top of mustard seed basmati rice, beautifully contrasted with a “chutney” of juicy peaches in a cherry glaze.

Bing Cherry Almond Cake ($8.75) was heavy on the almond, dry but for plump cherries, and rose geranium ice cream that was a soapy rose bomb. But altogether, it became another dessert entirely, no piece overwhelming the other, cake moistened by a creamy hint of rose.

Greens, after all these years, remains a destination for lovingly-prepared vegetarian cooking. Long may she live.

CHEAP EATS

Mission Chinese Food, Mission – Recently bereft of our beloved twice weekly Mission Street Food dinners in dingy Lung Shan and Mission Burger in Duc Loi Supermarket, there’s at least comfort in knowing founders Anthony Myint and Danny Bowien are still on the scene, now with playful Chinese food at Mission Chinese Food.

For starters, it’s cheap (under $10), but the killer part is: they deliver… anywhere in the city? Guess who’s been savoring some Ma Po Tofu ($8) – ground pork, fermented black beans, mushrooms, peppercorn, ginger and flaming chili oil over rice – from comfortably behind her desk at the Guardian? You can eat in, too, as they’re open seven days week (11am-10:30pm). However you eat it, something tells me you won’t find the likes of Peking Duck Chinito ($8) anywhere. Think Peking duck confit, cucumber and cilantro wrapped inside a Chinese donut. Then cover the roll in rice noodle and dip it in a spicy Hoison oil. I knew you’d be intrigued…

Zaytoon, Mission – A simple menu of five items, an unassuming, bright green and white storefront, and kindly staff make brand new Zaytoon a worthy Valencia Street stop for Falafel Wraps ($6.95-$7.95), Chicken or Lamb Shawerma ($7.95) or a Mazza Platter ($7.95) of falafel, dolmas, hummus, babaganoosh, tabouleh, cucumber/tomato salad and feta. The place and ingredients are spanking fresh, clean and easy to devour.

Moya, SoMa – Though not the best Ethiopian food around (favorites here), I love the mother/daughter team working at brand new Moya (just opened 7/12) and their lunch steal of three vegetarian dishes of your choice piled on injera with salad and yet more injera for just $8.

Mr. Pollo, Mission – Want one of the best Arepas in town ($1.50 for cheese, $5.50 with meat)? Head to Mr. Pollo near the 24th Street BART and get a warm off the grill Cheese Arepa, oozing with cheese and a hint of honey sweetness. It’s as good or better even than ones I had in Venezuela.

Top Tastes, rather than a list of all-time favorites (another thing altogether), are among the best eats since my last newsletter, often from new openings. Many don’t make the cut, being a revisit previously written about or simply not as stand-out as dishes mentioned.

I’ve been busy with visiting family and dear friends so am returning to favorites, like Chez Panisse, Michael Mina, Dosa on Fillmore, the original Sushi Bistro, Mission Beach Cafe and B Star.

MID-RANGE RESTAURANTS & CELEBRATORY MEALS

PROSPECT, SoMa – Nancy Oakes, Kathy King and Pamela Mazzola of Boulevard opened Prospect, a long-anticipated restaurant with a stellar crew: Ravi Kapur as chef, Brooke Arthur (long a favorite for her cocktail menu at Range), and Amy Currens as Wine Director (formerly of Luce).  You couldn’t ask for a better line-up, with all the elegance of Boulevard but more of an experimental, hip approach.

The space is huge, almost corporate-looking, but warmed by brown tones and centered bar. I haven’t dined fully here yet (opened June 29) but at the pre-opening party, I sampled a wide range of the food (over ten dishes), pretty much all stellar, as well as three fine cocktails.

The kitchen is impressive, allowing a finely tuned team to crank out Dayboat Scallops ($16) with summer truffles and shaved squash, addictive Pulled Pork Sandwiches, and Whole Wheat Crepes ($19) stuffed with ricotta, nettles and roasted mushrooms. I love Black Cod ($14) in red curry with snap peas, shiitakes, and lightly-fried shiso shrimp fritters.

Desserts were equally intriguing from a blissfully dark, creamy chocolate mousse/cake topped with berries, to the truly unique presentation and awesome taste of Cherries atop a Thyme Pavlova ($8) with vanilla, black pepper and frozen yogurt.

See my cocktail coverage of Prospect in Imbiber…

Opened to the public on 6/29, I suspect Prospect is going to become a key SF dining and drinking destination.

AZIZA, Outer Richmond – It’s always a privilege to be back at this Moroccan stunner, especially when genius chef Mourad Lahlaou is in the kitchen, as he was on my latest visit.

Dishes are better than basic descriptions sound at Aziza, like the artistic splay of Avocado, Chicken Cracklings, Radishes, Spring Onions & blossoms ($12), a farm-fresh contrast in textures, or a sashimi-style Tuna ($13), curled up with cucumber strips and sea beans on a black garlic puree.

Rarely will you taste Eggplant, Cauliflower, Medjool Dates, Veggies over Couscous ($18) like this: grilled, earthy, in saffron foam. Might as well die happy with the lush richness of Squab (including some confit-style pieces), Cherry, Frisee, Spiced Honey Bread and a whipped mound of Foie Gras ($16). Wow and wow.

Desserts maintain the quality level and cocktails are some of the most inventive in town (see Imbiber).

SAISON, Mission – Walk through the side gate of Stable Cafe, with unique 1800’s carriage house setting, and enter Saison’s newly remodeled garden, evocative of an Italian or Mediterranean villa patio: white lights strung across the courtyard, lemon tree emitting a soft citrus scent, rocking chair and vintage ashtray stand inviting you to linger, and wood-burning hearth (which will also be a bread baking oven with mention of whole animal cooking to come)? Entirely transporting.

Chef and owner Joshua Skenes has taken his acclaimed weekly “pop-up” and launched a full, Tuesday through Saturday restaurant, opened June 22.

Cooking on the only Molteni stove in the Bay Area, the 30-seat interior is minimalist, but warm and glowing, with Danish furniture and open flow between dining room and kitchen. Prices are hefty for this unusual dining experience, from a one nightly seating/$98 per person/8-course tasting menu, to a four-seat chef’s counter at $200 per person, or a two-seat chef’s table with 20 customized courses at $200 to $500 per person (!) They were very smart to add the casual, enchanting patio to the mix with a la carte options for those not partaking in multi-courses. Something for everyone.

At a pre-opening dinner, I sampled possible menu offerings, while Sommelier Mark Bright kept us satiated with wine pairings like affordable 2005 Chateau de Montpezat Coteaux du Languedoc and 2004 Neal Ellis Shiraz. Dishes were delicate, tiny, artistic, and, of course, farm fresh, from hand-picked, local ingredients. Highlights include crispy Sweetbreads roasted with caramelized honey and intriguing slant of berbere spicing, as well as a perfect rendition of one of my favorites: Rhubarb as a sorbet on milk granite with tart strips of rhubarb.

NOMBE, Mission - I’ve written about Nombe before, but only recently finally made it out for their brunch, unlike any other in town. Chef Nick Balla offers Japanese Breakfast ($19) with broiled Black Cod, Onsen Tomago (silky, slow-cooked egg), miso soup, Koshihikari rice with wild nori, pickled vegetables and umeboshi. It’s a spread of delicate flavors and traditional Japanese technique, lovingly created in a colorful assembly of small plates.

For a more hearty dish, order Tonkatsu Donburi ($13), a heaping bowl of Koshihikari rice with nori, mizuna, scrambled egg and pickled cabbage mixed in, tonkatsu-style Llano Seco pork on top. Wash it down with milky iced Matcha Tea ($4) and save room for those awesome beignets… this last visit offered ultra-tart Strawberry Beignets ($7) stuffed and topped with tart strawberry jam.

SERPENTINE, Dogpatch – It felt good returning to Serpentine, a hip Dogpatch staple I visited more when it initially opened. While every dish may not wow, the quality level is high from cocktails (see Imbiber) to dessert. Bright, seasonal contrasts play together in salads, like Snow Angel Peach & Crimson Baby Nectarine Salad ($10.50) with little gems  and purslane  greens, juicy, thick pancetta, mint, toasted hazelnuts, elderflowers  in a zingy champagne vinaigrette. Creamy green peppercorn vinaigrette provided a contrast in a Shaved Summer Squash Salad ($9) with arugula, fennel,  radish, spring onion, basil and moist ricotta salata shaved on top with crunchy bread crumbs.

An intriguing mix of Asian and Middle Eastern spices play out in dishes all over the menu, something you wouldn’t catch perusing it (see the Tasting Table article that coincidentally came out the day I visited). I was transported back to Thailand with the heavy Thai chilis and fenugreek in tender Pan-Seared Petaluma Chicken Livers ($8) with hearts of palm & potato salad.

The dish that stole the night, unexciting as it may sound, was Chickpea Battered Calamari ($8.50): a comforting heap of tasty squid accented with garam masala spicing, Italian butter beans, tomato and mint. 

Dessert topped it off with the decadent sweetness of an Ice Cream Sandwich ($7.50) packed with Bi-Rite’s roasted banana ice cream in burnt sugar cookies, surrounded by caramel-y, Santa Teresa Rum sauce. Balance is best exemplified in Tcho Dark Chocolate Cake ($7.50) which fuses an already great local chocolate, toasted coconut ice cream and balsamic cherry compote in a pleasing blend of bitter, sweet and creamy.

Top Tastes, rather than a list of all-time favorites (another thing altogether), are among the best eats since my last newsletter, often from new openings. Many don’t make the cut, being a revisit previously written about or simply not as stand-out as dishes mentioned.

Besides visiting newcomers Fondue Cowboy and Spice Kit (great for those working nearby for fresh Ssam, Bahn Mi and Pork Buns, if not necessarily worth a trek across town), here are new openings (and one classic) from the last two weeks:

CHEAP EATS

SKOOL, Potrero Hill – On a sunny afternoon during Skool’s (soft) opening week (June 21), I wandered over to this new fish haven run by husband and wife duos, Toshihoro and Hiroko Nagano (of my beloved Bushi Tei) and Andy and Olia Mirabell (of Blowfish Sushi).

The Zen-peace of the patio, enclosed in gorgeous Japanese foliage, is brightened by orange Aperol umbrellas. Inside it’s sleek, Japanese minimalism in the form of warm, brown woods and gentle lighting.

They’re expecting their liquor license any day, which means dinner is not far behind – it’s lunch only at the moment. They make good sans alcohol with fine teas, Illy coffee and virgin drinks like Teacher’s Pet ($4): apple juice, honey water, topped with ginger foam and a basil leaf. I almost don’t miss my cocktail. Ginger Mule ($4) doesn’t fare as well as there’s not enough ginger, mostly just soda water.

First visit, I ordered a hefty “lunch box” Crab Sandwich ($13), Dungeness crab tossed in a light mayo with yuzu whole grain mustard, topped with avocado, butter lettuce, tomato, and a poached free range egg. Freshly generous, the only part that didn’t work for me was the dense but bland Filone bun – I would have preferred a thinner bread as this one drowned out the goodness between it. It comes with a salad and soup of the day: a light carrot-ginger.

I came back for the Washugyu Sandwich ($15) with coffee-marinated washu-beef, mozzarella and Parmesan cheeses, caramelized onions, pepper cress and wasabi aioli. All the notes came together pleasingly but there was not quite enough beef compared to bread and a little too many onions. Ceviche ($10) is nicely presented with hirame, kampachi, serrano chile, brown popped-rice but was sorely lacking in flavor. Squid Ink Spaghetti ($14) intrigued with Monterey squid, shrimp, garlic tomato compote, shiso and Enoki mushrooms. But the red curry/lemongrass dashi I was excited to have it coated in was all too subtle. I barely got any curry though there was a nice whisper of lemongrass. Dessert was a seductively jiggly Lavender Panna Cotta ($6), surprisingly light, drizzled with a honey vanilla bean sauce.

I definitely sense Bushi Tei freshness and creativity at work here but it seems quite uneven after two visits, needing to work out kinks. I could see it become a neighborhood classic, because how can you not fall in love with that patio?

** Note: this place is actually mid-range in prices but since it’s just a lunch spot so far, I’m filing it with casual eats.

RANCHO PARNASSUS, SoMa – Step through the doorway of this all day cafe (free wi-fi) and event space on dodgy 6th Street (which continues to evolve what with new, unexpected spaces like Passion Cafe and early pioneers like Split Pea Seduction), and you’re in for a surprise at Rancho Parnassus. Open cooking kitchen, eclectic decor (think everything from owls to Greek-like statues), aquamarine and gold colors, a healthy, minimal menu (they want your input on what else you’d like to see on it), and a whole range of drinks.

You could sip Kombucha on tap (Rose Black or Lavender Green, for example). Or shockingly strong coffee from fair trade, organic Thanksgiving (which, so far, I’ve only seen at Gather in Berkeley). Then there’s quality beers on draft, like Brother Thelonious.

Maybe you need a daily shot of Vitalah Oxylent Ozygenating Multi-Vitamin drink ($1.75)? They’ve got it. Or, from a non-soda drinker herself, my new preferred cola, the intriguing, spiced, almost savory Taylor’s Tonics (made locally): Chai Cola or Cola Azteca ($2 a bottle).

I like the offering of Aghan Bolani (flatbread – $5), even if it’s made at a local farmers market purveyor rather than in-house. What makes it fun is your choice of four different sauces drizzled on top. I had Pumpkin Bolani with Sweet Jalapeno, Sweet & Sour Carrot, Lentil Curry, Garlic Mint Cheese.

Yes, this quirky space is off-the-beaten-path and pretty much all over the place concept-wise, but it’s unlike any cafe I’ve seen and as I chat with the friendly owner who has long dreamed for and planned this space, I want to see it succeed.

HOOKER’S SWEET TREATS, TenderNob – The name continually prompts the obvious jokes, but all that aside, Hooker’s Sea Salt Dark Chocolate-covered Caramels are as addictive and bitchin’ as everyone says. Don’t be swayed by lesser versions. These are truly in their own league and I’m delighted they now have their own shop… especially one so charming.

Visiting opening day, I found it’s not merely a storefront for the caramels (expensive at $2 each, $7 for 3, or $20 for 10), but also for wonderful coffee and capuccinos from Sightglass, serving the first of their own roasted beans here (returning the favor since Sightglass first sold Hooker’s caramels).

They bake bread pudding daily (always wins points with me), a nod to the owner’s Louisiana roots (another point!) The space is cozy, with one communal table that gazes lazily out a window framed by a leafy tree, and turn-of-the-century country kitchen decor of dark blue and wood. Along with microscopic Farm: Table, there’s now two linger-worthy, coffee mecca cafes in this neck of the ‘Loin.

BAAN THAI HOUSE & WINE BAR, Inner Sunset – Though Baan Thai House may be another Thai restaurant in the Sunset, opening without much fanfare this Spring, it’s mod interior and wine list set it slightly apart from Thai hole-in-the-walls and take-out joints. I appreciated the playful difference of Apple Curry at lunch ($8 with salad), particularly satisfying with salmon added ($2), bell peppers, basil leaves in a slow burn red curry sauce. The skin puckered on the tender, baked red apples, delivering a hint of sweetness to the savory offerings.

BURGERS: Old School vs. New

ROAM ARTISAN BURGERS, Cow Hollow – Roam opened June 21, at a pre-opening party I tasted through all four burgers: grass-fed beef, bison (lean, meaty), turkey and veggie.  All come with various topping choices, whether fried egg or veggie.

Veggie impressed, even as I never consider veggie burgers a replacement for “real” burgers. This is, rather, a unique, veggie sandwich with patties made primarily of quinoa and beets, loaded with avocado. Straus Creamery shakes are lush in flavors like Salted Caramel and Matcha Green Tea. Kombucha on tap is refreshingly smooth. House sodas were a highlight, particularly the sweet, puckery tart of Meyer Lemon. Sweet Potato Fries cooked in maple syrup may be my favorite item as this casually chic new burger lounge.

GRUBSTAKE, TenderNob – When nothing but old school will do, I always leave satiated at Grubstake, from their comforting, quirky rail car setting to juicy burgers (try Gold Rush Blue – $8.25, or Nugget with bacon and fried egg – $9.25) and non-greasy but quite fried onion rings. Don’t forget their Portuguese menu.

Top Tastes, rather than a list of all-time favorites (another thing altogether), are among the best eats since my last newsletter, often from new openings. Many don’t make the cut, being a revisit previously written about or simply not as stand-out as dishes mentioned.

CHEAP EATS

American Grilled Cheese Kitchen, South Park - It’s brand new, funky cute, with playful grilled cheese menu… and waits are 30 minutes for a sandwich at opening time of 11am (even longer later). One register is the first problem, though they have a few people standing around offering you cookie samples (take them!) or juice while you wait. Sweet staff… a couple registers and extra kitchen help is really where all that extra, friendly manpower is needed – I hear they have another register on the way, so they are on it. Maybe the crowds will die down once it’s been open awhile, or this confirms widespread cravings for grilled cheese sandwiches?

Ingredients are quality, on crusty house bread. The Piglet ($8) had a whisper-thin layer of artisan ham, and lacked much of the Tillamook aged white cheddar, rosemary butter or apple mustard that would have made it work. Jalapeno Popper ($9), however, is a more enticing sandwich of chèvre, monterey jack, applewood-smoked bacon and apricot-jalapeño relish. A classic Moustrap ($6) comforts with Tillamook sharp cheddar, creamy havarti and monterey jack. I love the concept, feel, look and friendliness of this place and trust it can become and SF institution with time.

Chairman Bao, follow on Twitter for location – All the Chairman Bao vs. Baohaus in NY controversy has only aided business to Chairman Bao, the new Chinese bun truck roaming the Bay Area with artwork designed by a DC Comics artist and steamed ($2.95) or baked ($5.75)  buns stuffed with five-spiced duck confit, meatballs with kimchi, and naturally, pork belly. For $9, you get two steamed buns and a shaved ice (normally $3.50). The Mango Matcha Green Tea Shaved Ice I tried lacked much flavor but was refreshing. Next time, I’ll get Pineapple Salted Caramel. It may not be life-changing, but it is tasty, good fun and (bonus) often parked near my work.

Mr & Mrs. Miscellaneous, Dogpatch – Dogpatch’s new ice cream shop also has homemade candies, brittle and baked goods. It’s an airy, spanking fresh space. But you go for the goods, which, so far, have been killer Maldon Sea Salt Caramels (75 cents each), minty-fresh White Grasshopper ice cream, and the soon-to-be-signature Ballpark, a stellar ice cream made with Anchor Steam beer laced with chocolate pretzels and peanuts ($4 for 1/2 pint; $8 a pint).

Tony’s Pizza Napoletana, North Beach - I’ve raved about this favorite before. It’s been, hands down, one of the best additions to SF, and certainly North Beach, in years. I’m just hear this time to say I finally ordered the Jersey-style Original Tomato Pie ($15): simple, reddest of red sauces and crispy crust… freakin’ A, it’s amazing. It fulfills my East Coast homesickness. Ditto the giant Sicilian-style foccacia pizzas ($26-29; feeds a few) glistening with olive oil, like a Colombo, dotted with pepperoni, chopped garlic and Italian sausage.

MID-RANGE

Palio d’Asti, Financial District - As this FiDi Italian classic hits its 20th anniversary, it’s an accomplishment to still be alive and kicking in today’s restaurant climate. I’ve always liked the Il Palio theme and flags (from enchanting Siena) lining the spacious restaurant, even if I don’t make it out more than once every few years.  A recent visit delivered filling, four course Italian food in the form of a simple but heartwarming Fedelini con Granchio: linguine with fresh Dungeness Crab, San Marzano tomato sauce, oregano and a little heat from Calabrese chilies. Proscuitto San Daniele paired well with strawberries instead of the traditional melon. Paglia e Fieno was another pasta pleaser with “grass and hay” green taglierini tossed with braised suckling pig, sweet peppers, smoked Provolone.

Palio often offers some of the best happy hour deals around, like free pizza with the purchase of two cocktails, or a current special of a $1 Martini or Manhattan with their 3-5 course dinners, the only dinner menu options (no a la carte). Come prepared to gorge on any combination you crave (e.g., antipasti, pasta, pizza or salad, pizza, entree, dessert): $29 for 3 courses, $37 for 2, $45 for 4.

To celebrate their 20th, they’re having an unusual contest where all diners, whether eating lunch or dinner, can win prizes. These are sweet prizes, like an Iron Chef-style Mixology Class for you and nine of your friends. Or Wine Tasting Dinner for six.

I love the touch of Chocolatier Blue truffles for dessert, a Berkeley chocolatier I wrote about a couple years ago when they first opened. I ‘heart’ the Peanut Butter & Jelly truffle!