3 First-Rate Cheap Eats Spots

Our city is loaded with amazing cheap eats. Here’s three new places worth adding to your go-to list.

CHUBBY NOODLE, North Beach (570 Green Street between Columbus & Jasper Place, 415-361-8850)

Chubby Noodle easily counts as a best cheap eats opening of 2011. In the back of comfortably retro Amante bar, order at a kitchen window (illuminated in neon by the word, “Hungry?”). Then slide into roomy booths to fill up on fresh, daily ceviche, Hawaiian tuna poke ($11), and heartwarming red miso ramen ($9 with pork and poached egg; $11 with shrimp). From owners of the excellent, neighboring Don Pisto’s, I expected good, but it’s better than good.

Whatever you do, don’t miss organic, buttermilk-brined, Mary’s fried chicken (5-piece wings or strips $9; 2 piece drum & thigh meal $7). It’s American fried chicken with Asian attitude, dipped in habit-forming, creamy sambal dipping sauce. Tender chicken strips are an elevated, gourmet version of chicken tenders from childhood.

House kimchi is no slouch, working its gently heated wonders as a side ($4) or on a kimchi kobe beef hot dog ($6). Besides the fried chicken, my other top dish is spicy garlic noodles ($8). Chewy and homemade, they’re oozing with garlic, oyster sauce, and a little jalapeno kick. Their Korean pork tacos ($9) aren’t carbon copies of the usual trendy dish. Instead of shredded pork, chunks of Niman Ranch rib chop imbue beefy heft, contrasted by Korean pickles, yogurt sauce, and arbol chile vinegar.

Don’t opt for Italian next time you’re in North Beach. Opt for Chubby Noodle. You won’t be sorry.

ROOSTERTAIL, Pacific Heights (1963 Sutter Street between Fillmore & Webster), 415-776-6783

Roostertail is, yes, another rotisserie joint. But only weeks into opening, and a few visits later, I’m impressed with friendly staff who exude a warm welcome even when merely grabbing take-out (note: they just launched curbside pick-up with pre-paid phone orders). The space boasts silver countertops and bright red stools, festive with beer and wine on draft.

When it comes to rotisserie, I’ll take dark meat, thanks ($5.75-$18.50, quarter to whole birds). The organic, juicy meat is delightful with their garlicky green sauce. Husband/wife team, Gerard Darian and Tracy Green, get their mainstay right.

A pulled pork sandwich ($10.75) is a solid sandwich pick, on an Acme bun topped with fresh coleslaw unencumbered by mayo. Tiny chicken wings didn’t excite (I prefer Hot Sauce & Panko‘s creative, meatier wings), nor did the cheesesteak sandwich. But there’s brisket, five different sandwiches or hefty salad options, along with soulful sides ($4-$5.50) like brisket baked beans or brussels sprouts with bacon.

I keep going back for the rotisserie.

GALETTE 88, Financial District (88 Hardie Place at Kearny, 415-989-2222)

There’s a Ti Couz-shaped hole where my Brittany crepe hunger resides.

Through the years, crepes didn’t get better than at the now-defunct Ti Couz. At the end of an alley off Kearny, the new Galette 88 isn’t exactly a replacement. There’s note quite the same depth of buckwheat earthiness. Their French galettes (aka buckwheat crepes; savory: $6-10, sweet: $5-6) are even thinner, still crisp, a little less flavorful, but nonetheless worthwhile. Gluten free and healthy, they’re made with only three ingredients (water, sea salt, buckwheat flour made from buckwheat which is a plant, not a grain), loaded with fiber, vegetable protein, calcium, iron.

Order Four Barrel coffee, Mighty Lea tea, or hard cider and choose a crepe. Bruce’s choice ($10) is my first pick, layered with smoked salmon, caramelized onions, and capers, topped with avocado slices, greens, and a tart/sweet lemon chive creme fraiche. Light yet filling, the zesty lemon sauce makes it.

Bleu Velvet ($9) is a savory/sweet choice of blue cheese, browned apples, arugula, honey, toasted almonds. Dessert crepes (lemon sugar, roasted apples with salted caramel, chocolate with candied orange peel, or nutella), made with eggs, milk, wheat flour and sugar, lacked the subtle chewiness and flavor of Ti Couz’ wheat dessert crepes.

But in their absence, Galette 88‘s crepes contend for the best in town.

It’s already one of the more pleasant FiDi lunch options (with just-added dinner, Wed.-Fri.): casual, order-at-the-counter ease, the owner flitting about, ensuring water cups are filled and everyone is content. The space is minimalist with live birch trees towering in one corner and a decidedly Mission air… rare in FiDi.

Galette 88 may not fill that Ti Couz-shaped hole, but it definitely satisfies Breton crepe cravings.

Dishes for a Winter’s Night

As we arrive at the end of 2011, here are a few dishes of soothing comfort for a winter’s night from four under-the-radar places: two new, two established.

Egg noodles in a Japantown culinary respite
BUSHI-TEI, 1638 Post Street, 415-440-4959

Bushi-Tei has long been one of my underrated restaurant picks. I’ve said as much (e.g. May 2011 article in 944 magazine), reveling in refined takes on Japanese French cuisine. There’s much to love in the two-tiered space lined in rugged Japanese woods, with 18-foot communal table, and ever-sure conversation starter: Japanese toilets in the bathrooms (air dryers and seat warmers!)

When I heard new chef Michael Hung (of Jardiniere) and pastry chef Yuko Fujii (of Fifth Floor) were coming aboard, I hoped the intricacies I admired would remain intact. I was delighted after a couple visits to see Hung has married comfort and intricacy, inventiveness with tradition. Tasting menus are $55, or $8-18 starters, $17-27 main courses.

Tak and Keiko Matsuba thankfully still run the restaurant – among the most adorable husband/wife teams I’ve met. They bring a gentle passion to each aspect of the place, including Tak’s thoughtful wine pairings (like an Alsace riesling with fish, or sake with noodles).

There’s Sunday brunch offering elegant bowls of egg noodles in Sonoma duck ragout or Haiga rice porridge (reminiscent of Chinese congee) laced with salt-roasted albacore tuna and a poached farm egg. A small serving of grilled Monterey calamari ($8) in a ginger bourride (a stew made with egg yolk and garlic) impresses with nuanced sauce and juicy squid.

Memorable dinner dishes include tataki of Hawaiian albacore ($12), a delicate, sashimi-style starter over black sesame aioli. Handmade egg noodles ($17) steal the show from worthy entrees like roasted Kurobuta pork Nabemono (Japanese stew). Hung makes his egg noodles (the same ones at brunch) with egg and soda, and at a recent dinner, tossed them in brown butter cauliflower and hatcho miso (a miso from South Central Japan).

Fujii shows her skills in a unique dessert of Kabocha squash and matcha mochi dotting a coconut tapioca broth. Dense and warm, it is thankfully unsweet and richly satisfying, its three lush bean pastes (red bean, green tea, squash) the shining finish.

Post-dinner, Tak offers a pour of Denshin “Yuki” Junmai Ginjo sake brewed by Ippongi Kubohonten Co. He spoke of its cowboy boot, kimono-wearing sake maker who’s area of Japan (Fukui) was hit hard by the recent earthquake. Matsuba loves to support such producers, welcoming them when they are in the States. We’re lucky to have this haven of pristine East-West cuisine in our city.

Egg Yolk and Ricotta Ravioli in cozy Nob Hill restaurant
SEVEN HILLS, 1550 Hyde St. (between Jackson & Pacific), 415-775-1550

Seven Hills is one of those neighborhood favorites many outside the ‘hood aren’t aware of. An Italian spot run by French natives (?), it’s a mellow respite for conversation with caring service. Pasta is where I most enjoyed myself, like their signature ravioli uovo ($9.50) filled with ricotta, spinach, and oozing Full Belly Farm egg yolk. In a light pool of brown butter and white truffle oil, it flirts with decadence. Spaghetti ($9.50/$19) is a heartwarming bowl (conveniently in two sizes) dotted with French Grandpa George’s recipe of plump fennel sausage, caramelized onions, and bell peppers in tomato sauce.

Chestnut soup in a tiny French bistro
BOUCHE, 603 Bush St. (at Stockton), 415-956-0396

Bouche has only been open a couple weeks and thus is too new to comment in-depth on. Though I have pangs of nostalgia wishing Bar Crudo was still in this tiny, charming space, the one dish out of a number of small plates ($6-18) that began to assuage those pangs was a creamy chestnut soup ($6). It’s aroma evokes winter, the soup dotted with sage leaves fried in butter (which I could smell downstairs before the dish arrived to my table upstairs), with a side of crispy root vegetable chips to place on top.

Healthy “Unfried” Chicken & Ancient Grains in Palo Alto
LYFE, 167 Hamilton Avenue, Palo Alto 94301, 650-325-5933

Call it healthy “fast food” for the Peninsula set: LYFE Kitchen is a bustling, new eatery in downtown Palo Alto. Draft beers and wines, smoothies and juices flow, while vegan, vegetarian and organic foods encourage guilt-free eating. This sort of place would take off in downtown SF as its healthful approach doesn’t leave taste behind, while its connection to celebrity chef Art Smith is a point of interest for foodies.

Though not everything worked (I’m afraid fries are ultimately better – and less soggy – when actually fried), two stand-outs are Art’s unfried chicken ($11.99) and roasted beets & farro salad ($7.79).

Chicken is a dish I often brush past for more enticing options, but their tender, “unfried” chicken is pounded flat, textural with breaded crust, on a heartwarming bed of roasted squash, brussels sprouts, dried cranberries, tied together by a drizzle of cashew cream and Dijon vinaigrette. The salad is loaded with roasted red beets over whole-grain farro and field greens, with a melange of fennel, walnuts, dried cranberries, oranges, red onion, and basil in maple-sherry vinaigrette. Every bite packs a flavor punch. Here one can fill up with a clear conscience.

AQ SHINES

AQ, 1085 Mission Street (between 6th & 7th), 415-341-9000

In its initial opening weeks, AQ reminds me of Commonwealth and Sons and Daughters. At all three restaurants, precision marries inventiveness… at a reasonable cost. AQ’s starters are $9 or $13, while entrees are $24 (prices lower at lunch). Dining in cities the world and country over, I can vouch that it is rare to see this level of skill and creativity at this price.

Seasonal menus are a dime a dozen here, but how often do you witness seasonal trees and plants with seasonal bar glassware, and a seasonally-changing bartop?

As AQ’s bartop morphs from copper to Italian marble for the winter and fall leaves enliven, the space exudes celebratory beauty. There’s exposed brick, funky whisk lighting, open kitchen and a ridiculously cool basement lounge with mid-century lamps and couches viewable from a mini-bridge walkway at the restaurant’s entrance.

Then there’s the food. Executive chef/owner Mark Liberman combines New York and San Francisco sensibilities (he’s cooked in both cities, France, Napa, and with Daniel Boulud and Joël Robuchon in Vegas), Mediterranean and French influences, but in style and ingredients, is decidedly Californian.

All this comes into focus when you taste Monterey squid and charred avocado ($9). Parsnips and grapefruit add brightness, while black sesame char over silky avocado ushers in a dish rich, earthy, unusual. A delicate starter, it is rife with flavor.

I adore Boudin Noir (blood sausage or black pudding, depending on if you’re from the US or UK/Ireland) and Liberman’s version is a thrill. A warm, spiced pile of tender meat (not in a sausage casing) is companion to chestnuts done three ways ($9): raw, confit, and as a cream sauce.  With quince and sorrel, the dish pops. At this point, I’m catching my breath at the level of detail and sapidity, recalling countless basic salads or sandwiches I’ve had for the same price.

In each dish, nuance prevails without getting mired in overwrought fussiness. Starters are small, but entrees are filling as they are complex. With every visit, my meals keep getting better. Only open since October, I repeat what I noted last month about AQ’s bar menu: AQ is a restaurant to watch.

Not as revelatory as the charred avocado or boudin noir, I was still pleased with toasted barley and Dungeness crab ($13) tossed with mushrooms and Douglas fir, and with cauliflower ($9) in various iterations from charred to raw, doused in vadouvan spices with golden raisins.

In the Autumn spirit, roasted pumpkin ($10) sits alongside carrots, ancho cress greens, with a heaping scoop of mascarpone cream. Even a little gem salad in buttermilk dressing ($10) fends of being typical with poppy seeds, watermelon radish and cured sardines.

On the entree front, one witnesses Liberman’s range in a juicy, utterly satisfying slow-cooked veal breast (all entrees $24), subtly candied in orange, accompanied by unfried, plump sweetbreads and broccoli. He does not leave vegetarians in the shadows with Kohlrabi “Bourguignon”. Kohlrabi, a brawny German turnip, stands stoically in the center of the plate, a root sprouting from the dish with flair. Notes of horseradish and star anise peek out but it’s the red wine sauce that must be lapped up.

Desserts (desserts $6 lunch, $8 dinner) are equally expert in detail but didn’t capture me the way savory dishes like the veal breast, boudin noir, or charred avocado have. I enjoyed ginger cake with Asian pear and salted toffee, cooked in Amaro Montenegro, and a devil’s chocolate cake dusted in coffee and smoked streusel, with shavings of roasted white chocolate, though I could have used more smoked streusel to bring out the earthiness of the cake.

As I’ve written before, the bar, with a winning team of talented bartenders helmed by Timothy Zohn, is worth a visit alone and should be a new go-to for cocktailians. Winter’s chill diminishes sipping New Amsterdam # 1 (all menu cocktails $10): raisin-infused Bols Genever, maple syrup, Old Fashion bitters, and a splash of apple cider. Head south with Mexican Piano: Espolon blanco tequila, huckleberry syrup, lime, tarragon, topped with a torched bay leaf.

In keeping with early opening weeks, they mix lovely aperitif and digestif cocktails, many amaro based, with a section of classics given seasonal treatment, like a Sazerac of date-infused Russell’s Reserve Rye, sugar, Peychaud’s winter bitters.

The concise menu reflects a thoughtful range,  vintage glassware is gorgeous, and cocktails sophisticated yet unpretentious.

Already, AQ feels like “the whole package”: seamless, warm service, excellent bar and cocktails, exciting cuisine, smart space. I wouldn’t be surprised if AQ becomes a favorite San Francisco dining destination for many.

Morocco to Bone Marrow Brilliance:
Four Memorable Meals

Here are four recent stand-out dishes or meals, from affordable hole-in-the-walls (Grill House and Prime Dip Sandwiches) to upscale creativity (Haven and Aziza):

HAVEN Preview Dinner at PLUM,  Oakland (Haven will be in Jack London Square; preview dinners are at 2214 Broadway; 510-444-7586)

Anticipating the opening of Daniel Patterson’s restaurant (currently slated by year’s end), Haven in Jack London Square, there’s been a series of preview dinners on Tuesdays at his Oakland restaurant, Plum (the last one is 11/15). Haven chef Kim Alter has been on hand cooking a five course Haven dinner, recalling her signature style she made waves with at Sausalito’s Plate Shop.

While I saw Alter’s promise there, I find myself more excited by the Haven preview. It seems her meticulous artistry is making space for comfort in a way that satisfies yet is not routine or predictable.

Three cheers for her bone marrow dish, possibly my favorite bone marrow interpretation ever. A trail of garlic scents the air as two hefty bones come out. Vivid, pickled watermelon radishes brighten up the marrow visually, while leeks and yuzu juice add unexpected layers.  Smeared over crusty bread, it was so satisfying and garlicky, we wanted to applaud. A main course of duck breast and tender duck confit delighted with the accompaniment of beets multiple ways, including dehydrated beets ground up with rye grain, or in German sauerkraut style.

Cocktail king Scott Beattie put three classics on the preview dinner menu, getting creative with ingredients in keeping with a gin theme. Old World Spirits‘ Rusty Blade gin makes a lush base with maraschino liqueur and Carpano Antica sweet vermouth for his take on a classic Martinez ($10). Smooth and sexy with the duck dish in particular.

Coi’s (Patterson’s flagship) pastry chef Matt Tinder took care of dessert, winning me over by filling buttery brioche with warm Brillat-Savarin cheese topped with crispy honeycomb. Savory, creamy, with gently floral honey, it’s a dessert exemplifying the spirit of the entire dinner: inventive yet ultimately gratifying. I’m left expectant for what Alter and crew will cook at Haven.

P.S. It seems Grubstreet (where I fill in as SF editor from time to time) had an equally winning menu on another Tuesday Haven preview.

GRILL HOUSE MEDITERRANEAN, Tenderloin (533 Jones Street, 415-440-7786)

After moving around to various Tenderloin and North Bay storefronts, gifted Turkish chef Vahit Besir’s started at the new Grill House Mediterranean, only to leave a few weeks later. I caught him on one visit to this humble hole-in-the-wall, no longer there on my most recent stop. Though other food writers have deemed their visits inconsistent, my tastes here have been steady and as such, I find it a worthy place to pick up Middle Eastern bites when in the ‘Loin, though missing Besir.

Shredded chicken, lamb or beef shawarma ($9.99 plate, or combo of all three: $11.99) fills out a toasted lavash wrap ($6.99-7.99) quite nicely, companion to lettuce, tomato, cucumber, hummus and tahini sauce (as spicy as you wish).

The menu runs $10 or less with ubiquitous starters ($3.99 each) of baba ganoush, tabouli, dolmas, piyaz (white bean salad), and lahmajun, essentially Middle Eastern flatbread topped with ground beef. The most addictive bite is feta cheese pie ($3.99) straight out of the oven (or stuffed with beef, chicken or spinach). Tomatoes and warm feta ooze from a roll sprinkled in sesame seeds. A supreme Middle Eastern treat.

PRIME DIP SANDWICHES, Tenderloin (518 Larkin Street between Turk and Eddy, 415-800-8244)

Blue collar workers and Civic Center government staff line-up at Prime Dip, a new sandwich shop on Larkin. No frills, just hefty dip sandwiches ($6.99-7.99) on French bread, including a popular prime rib dip. Under $8 is a deal for such hefty rolls, including a choice of sides like mac n’ cheese or mixed veggies. There’s a loaded lobster dip ($12.99) with hot dill butter, though I find my New Jersey (NY) roots push me straight for the hot pastrami dip. Crusty French bread softens when dipped in meaty jus, while spicy mustard and melted Swiss cushion thinly sliced pastrami.

AZIZA,  Outer Richmond (5800 Geary Blvd., 415-752-2222)

A meal at Aziza is never boring. Celebrated Chef Mourad Lahlou (whose new cookbook was just released) puts such an artistic spin on Moroccan food, one never knows what a dish will look like just from reading the ingredients listed on the menu. Some achieve greater heights than others but all fascinate, reinterpreting elements of Moroccan food. Though Aziza’s anticipated downtown location just fell through, they are on the hunt for a new building.

Savory, garden-fresh cocktails were the highlight of a recent visit (see Imbiber), but on the food front, juicy, little meatballs ($14)  on skewers with grapes play the sweet/savory card to winning effect, accented by herb-tossed jicama. I adore Lahlou’s basteeya (or bastilla), my ultimate Moroccan dish, found commonly at Moroccan restaurants. This visit it was tweaked from the usual chicken or traditional squab, filled instead with duck confit. Tender, shredded duck is encased in phyllo dough ($22), sweetly contrasted by raisins, cinnamon and powdered sugar, plus slivers of almonds. Savory and sweet gets me every time.

Top Tastes is not a list of all-time favorites, rather the best tastes of the last two weeks (since my last newsletter), often from new openings.

Breakfasting in SF

San Francisco has long been a brunch town. Weekends are packed with brunch attendees staving off Monday. But what about weekday breakfasts? Breakfasting on recent weekdays has yielded three newer options (also open weekends), and one Sunday-only brunch so good I just had to include it.

Sunday Brunch Decadence:
BAKER & BANKER, 1701 Octavia St. (at Bush), 415-351-2500

Husband/wife duo, Lori Baker and Jeff Banker, interact with diners during Sunday brunch at their restaurant Baker & Banker (which I named one of last year’s best new openings in the Guardian and The Perfect Spot). Jeff delivers dishes to tables, chatting with patrons, while Lori spends her time between the restaurant and next door bakery.

In keeping with the delights available for dinner, the fairly recent addition of Sunday brunch offers joys beyond mere scrambles and pancakes. While it’s still Fall, do yourself a favor and order their cinnamon and spice-dusted donuts ($9) filled with a blessedly less-than-sweet pumpkin pie cream. Five to a basket, these warm rounds of fall goodness disappeared from my table quickly. One hopes they will change the filling seasonally, keeping these on the menu.

On the savory side, there’s house-smoked trout on latkes, roasted squash salad, brisket hash, and Cajun eggs benedict. I’d like to single out mascarpone brown butter polenta as the decadent base for eggs in purgatory ($14). Two semi-runny eggs over polenta are dotted with house sausage, swimming in a spicy sweet tomato sauce adding a Southern Italian dimension. It’s an utterly satisfying breakfast dish seemingly half the restaurant ordered.

Delightfully unhipster yet hip:
LITTLE GRIDDLE, 1400 Market St. (between Polk & Fell), 415-864-4292

One of the best things to come along on this stretch of Market in awhile is Little Griddle, a few months old corner breakfast spot and burger joint. Blue collar workers and Civic Center government employees line up for bagels and Zoka coffee in the morning, while a large selection of around 15 burgers is the crowd favorite throughout the day.

Little Griddle was serving the sadly now defunct Spot Bagels. They currently offer New York Bagels (from Richmond, CA), delivered fresh daily, topped with lox, cream cheese, and the like. Their breakfast platters of omelets or scrambles are massive, enough for two at roughly $8-11, with crispy hash browns or salad. I like the Sandbox ($10.75): Black Forest ham, apple-smoked bacon, avocado, crimini mushrooms, yellow onions.

Griddle cakes ($5-8) are likewise massive and come double or triple-stacked, topped with strawberries and bananas, or dotted with pecans or chocolate chips.

Little Griddle’s space is humble. I relish orange floor tiles and the 1970′s spirit of the tiny, triangular space. It keeps the gourmet, local approach from feeling hipster or put on. In fact, it’s a neighborhood joint equipped for commuters, in keeping with San Francisco food quality and values sans pretension.

Bakery Treats:

THE PASTRY CUPBOARD, 1596 Market St. (at Franklin), 415-864-2755

Near the busy Van Ness Muni/BART stop, The Pastry Cupboard is a couple months old bakery from Chona Piumarta who was executive pastry chef at Slanted Door.

Pastry Cupboard leans towards American baked goods with cakes, pies, cookies and her signature coconut almond macaroons (puffy and cake-like with a caramelized exterior). Scones and danishes cater to a morning appetite, but my poison is a cherry chocolate strudel. With a sugar icing and almonds on top, tart cherries and dark chocolate layer inside a pastry shell with sweet cream cheese. Like a Bavarian version of a danish, it happily pairs with a robust espresso.

A beachside Taste of Ireland:
BEACHSIDE COFFEE BAR & KITCHEN, 4300 Judah St. (at 48th), 415-682-4961

Beachside Coffee Bar & Kitchen (from the owners of neighboring Java Beach) is a roughly three months old cafe at the edge of the city, merely a block from the ocean. Coffee is a highlight here, made with care, cup by cup, sourcing beans from varying parts of the world.

In a cozy, simple space, friendly staff serve vegetarian or vegan bahn mi, fried egg and bacon or sausage sandwiches on brioche, and all things waffles: bacon waffles, Belgian waffles, chicken & waffles.

On a recent rainy morn, I was sold on their Irish Breakfast sandwich ($6.95 regular, or $9.95 large). Transported back to rainier days this Summer traveling Ireland, I was delighted to eat Irish bacon and sausage, white and black pudding, and grilled tomatoes all packed into one sandwich with an egg.  Though not quite the supreme blood sausages I’ve had in Ireland or Scotland, they are well-made and the real deal. With an accompanying chutney to dip the sandwich in, I was transported straight back to Ireland’s windswept shores… not unlike our own on a day of massive waves and fog.

Top Tastes is not a list of all-time favorites, rather the best tastes of the last two weeks (since my last newsletter), often from new openings.

Sweet Explorations

Though my sweet tooth has diminished over the years, it only means I can’t stomach sickly sweet. I still take immense pleasure in a fine dessert. Here are desserts so good, they threaten to surpass the meal that came before:

CITIZEN CAKE ICE CREAM PARLOR & EATS, Pacific Heights (2125 Fillmore Street between California & Sacramento, 415-861-2228)

Citizen Cake has been on a meandering journey from it’s original Grove Street location, to its new Fillmore home, with a recent revamp from restaurant to ice cream parlor. My last visit nearly went south when in the 4pm hour we arrived hungry for a meal as well as chef Elizabeth Falkner’s ever dreamy desserts. Our server informed us they weren’t serving the regular menu though their website, menu and storefront all say they serve lunch from 11am on daily. I’m glad they decided to make a meal for us (they said it was because we were close to 5pm dinner time), but I hope this gets worked out quickly so what is stated as being served is served.

Thankfully, savory dishes we ordered pleased, particularly a fried chicken Cobb sandwich ($13). Though pricey, the chicken is high quality and expertly fried over a layer of egg salad (nice touch), topped with avocado, blue cheese and bacon tomato vinaigrette in a brioche bun. The savory menu is predominantly sandwiches, salads, appetizers and comfort food dinner dishes like meatloaf or spaghetti and meatballs.

Where I get excited is with soda fountain offerings. In classic style, there’s egg creams (favorites from my East Coast days), milkshakes (made with any choice of Falkner’s cakes), phosphates, spritzers, floats, and my all-time favorite root beer, Devil’s Canyon, on draft (now I don’t have to wait for SF Beer Week to have this gorgeous root beer!) Though cherry or Concord grape phosphates ($4) are listed on the menu, ask about off-menu options: I recently ordered a passion fruit phosphate, subtly floral and bright. I likewise reveled in the effervescent tart of a fresh Lime Ricky ($4) balanced by bitters.

If you’ve been paying attention, you know soda fountains are making a comeback, though I’ve been waiting for more to open in SF (watch for a classic parlor to open up soon in Cole Valley).

Darcy O’ Neil’s book, Fix the Pumps, outlines the history and richness of soda fountain culture. I can’t help but fall for the romance of perching on a stool at the counter and ordering a phosphate (the only thing missing is a jukebox).

Soda fountain sips are just the beginning. Falkner’s lush cakes, macarons, cookies, tarts and cupcakes still abound. But there’s now a liquid nitrogen ice cream machine (which she was operating herself on last visit), the liquid nitrogen ice creams a base for an extensive new list of sundaes and shakes.

I went straight for sourdough ice cream, delicately bready, not too sweet and altogether right in an SF sourdough sundae ($9) drizzled with grape syrup, brazil nuts and salted Spanish peanuts. The bowl is dotted with diced strawberries and an exceptional chocolate-peanut butter halvah, sticky and satisfying. I was ready for a second bowl as soon as I finished the first.

PISCO LATIN LOUNGE/DESTINO, Castro (1815 Market Street, 415-552-4451)

The duo of Pisco Latin Lounge and Destino share adjoining storefronts and menus, including the biggest selection of pisco (over 50 bottles) around. But I’ve said enough about sipping pisco here in 7×7 and Where magazines. Unexpectedly, dessert stands out here, too.

Recent returns to this duo (which I’ve been dining at on occasion for years), included a relaxed Sunday brunch and dessert. Blessedly, both brunch and dinner menus offer triple chocolate chile buñeulos ($7). These dense chocolate dough balls are dark and oozing, with merely a hint of chile. Resting in a pool of salted caramel with a vanilla crème anglaise dipping sauce, they are dangerously decadent.

 

Top Tastes is not a list of all-time favorites, rather the best tastes of the last two weeks (since my last newsletter), often from new openings.

NEW TASTES in NEW PLACES

These three new places just opened; these early dishes jump out.

PARK TAVERN, North Beach (1652 Stockton Street, 415-989-7300)

Staring out at Washington Square Park and city views from Park Tavern’s front dining room, one could be in Europe or New York… yet the glow is distinctly SF. The menu exemplifies typical San Francisco cooking: high quality ingredients and preparation in heartwarming dishes. There’s raw, fried or smoked menu categories, and entrees like a plump poulet rouge (red chicken) standing at attention over a platter of potatoes and wilted spinach, doused in herbs and jus. From the owners of Marlowe, this new space is already a source for comfortable sophistication in North Beach.

Early stand-out: Though bites like NY steak crudo ($10) sprinkled with Parmesan and crispy horseradish delight, a delicate (read: slight) appetizer of compressed Yellow Doll watermelon and Mangalitsa prosciutto over mustard greens ($11) is the one that leaves an impression. It’s true: compressed watermelon with meat is a trendy starter in recent years, but it’s a delicate whisper of truffle that sends it over the top. Truffle can easily be heavy-handed, but here it’s a welcome tease, hinting at umami worlds behind its initial sweet and savory contrasts.

Bonus: Dessert should not be forgotten at Park Tavern, and, no, I’m not talking about daily “birthday cake” specials (like coconut cream or chocolate caramel), both sold out on my last visit. I headed straight for grown-up ice cream shakes ($9 each): Fernet ice cream with a shot of Fernet and Fever Tree ginger beer, or an Arnold Palmer with black tea ice cream, lemon gelato and St. Germain elderflower liqueur.

UMAMI BURGER, Cow Hollow (2184 Union Street, 415-440-8626)

Raved about ad nauseum in LA for years, Umami Burger already has a staunch following ensured. The chain’s first SF opening paves the way for the next two Bay Area locations already in the works. Whether craving their sauces (Umami ketchup, Dijon mustard, roasted garlic aioli, jalapeno ranch) or veggie burgers like the Earth Burger ($12 – mushroom edamame patty in white soy aioli with truffle ricotta),  Umami Burger is a guaranteed hit. Overhyped? Definitely. These are good burgers, to be sure, but there are many equally gourmet and crave-worthy burgers in town. Still, they’re having fun and it shows.

Early stand-out: I’m all about the Manly Burger ($11): beer cheddar cheese, smoked salt onion strings, bacon lardons. There’s only a bit of each ingredient, but somehow the thin layer of bacon cheesiness makes you appreciate it all the more. Add in a side of giant tempura onion rings ($4.50) and the day’s stresses seem minimized.

CANELA, Castro (2272 Market Street, 415-552-3000)

Canela is an airy new Spanish tapas restaurant in the Castro. With the front window ushering in bright sun and Market Street’s bustle, it’s a lovely mid-day respite with a glass of sangria ($5). They’re still finding their legs with the menu (mostly tapas; will evolve to include dinner entrees), and as is expected, some dishes work better than others. Kudos for their house-made chorizo on coca flatbread ($14-15).

Early stand-out: There’s two… a bright amuse of gazpacho (also on the menu at $5 cup/$7 bowl). Tomato, cucumber, red bell pepper, garlic, and olive oil puree kick-start the taste buds. Salt cod salad ($9 small/$15 large) is punctuated by olives, red onion, and orange slices, cutting the saltiness of the fresh fish, while orange vinaigrette ties it together. For me, salt cod evokes the Mediterranean, particularly when it’s this fresh and, well, salty. This simple salad sent me right back to Spain gazing out at the sea.