The Face of Bordeaux

Bordeaux surprises. Some think of Bordeaux wines as pricey, out of reach, inaccessible. Others as some of the best wines in the world.

Visiting numerous winemakers throughout the region during their recent harvest, I was delighted at the vast range of quality, affordable wines from the region.

Another pleasant surprise is witnessing traditional chateaus and generational family winemakers alongside forward thinking, modern wineries and career-changing winemakers entering the field later in life.

Here are just a few of the faces, chateaus and wines of Bordeaux that made an impression on me. All recommended wines are available in the US, many through K&L Wine Merchants and JJ Buckley Fine Wines.

CHATEAU de PRESSAC, Saint-Emilion

Probably my favorite winery and couple of my Bordeaux travels is Jean-Francois and Dominique Quenin at Chateau de Pressac. Jean-Francois bursts with joy over the work he does at his stunning chateau, first built in the Middle Ages. A career changing top-level executive who went from major corporation (Darty, a huge European electronics company) to winemaker, he’s also St. Emilion’s Wine Council President.

Jean-Francois and his wife exude a tender love for the land. They hosted an unforgettable lunch in their chateau, sampling me through other winning wines from the region besides their own.

Recommended wine: 2008 Chateau de Pressac exhibits ripe cherries on the nose, with cassis, a silky texture and balanced acidity. $28

CHATEAU PALOUMEY, Haut-Medoc

Chateau Paloumey‘s female winemaker, Martine Cazeneuve, is inspiring. A teacher turned winemaker, she restored the land’s vines to award-winning status (formerly Cru Bourgeois Superieur), her vino served in many Michelin-starred restaurants. Martine and staff also educated on the Medoc region and its brand new classification and rating system, with a tasting of numerous wines from the region, mostly priced under $25.

Recommended wine: Though I like the smooth, soft 2007 Chateau Paloumey, the 2009 Cru Bourgeois Grand Vin de Bordeaux, a Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot blend, exhibits the most promise, tasting of dusty strawberry, balanced acidity, minimal oak, and a hint of smoke. $20-25

 CHATEAU OLIVIER, Pessac-Leognon

Chateau Olivier has a storied history, dating back to the 12th century when its striking, moat-surrounded chateau was built. Winemaker Laurent Lebrun uses forward-thinking winemaking techniques, replanting vines and maximizing the land’s varied, rich soil of gravel, sand, clay, and limestone.

Recommended wine: 2009 Chateau Olivier Blanc is a blend of 75% Sauvignon Blanc, 23% Semillion, 2% Muscadelle grapes. On the nose it is refreshingly grassy and bright with lemon peel, translating to acidic citrus and hint of herbs to taste. $38.99

2005 Chateau Olivier is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 5% Cab Franc. Earthy berries hit on the nose, with a taste of wood, dark chocolate and berries in this balanced, elegant red. $45

CHATEAU D’ARCOLE, Saint-Emilion

Delightful couple Victorie and Phillipe own a winery in Bordeaux’s Entre deux Mers region, but after turning 40 decided it was a time for a new challenge. They took on a tiny, 5 hectares plot of land in ultra-expensive Saint-Emilion. Their Chateau D’Arcole land has never seen chemicals and is certified organic, a rarity in the region. Victorie and Phillipe restored the humble winery from the ground up. In soil of gravel and sand, they planted 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet grapes.

Recommended wine: I like their 2009 Chateau D’Arcole Grand Cru best, with soft, fresh berry on the nose, and a round, earthy, dried berry profile. $20

CLEMENT PICHON, Medoc

On an idyllic estate with a magnificent 1885 mansion, ponies, ponds and statues, sits Chateau Clement Pichon, with merely 25 hectares of vineyards and modern, sleek production facilities.

Owned by Clement Fayat of the huge Fayat Group, the peaceful grounds will soon launch five guest rooms and host outdoor parties by a fountain with full view of the mansion where the Fayat family resides.

Recommended wine: 2008 Clement Pichon is 70% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Cab Franc. With high acidity and a light body, it’s elegant but easy, everyday drinking. $16.99

CHATEAU LA GRAVE & CHATEAU D’ARCHE, Sauternes

In the famously “sweet” region of Sauternes, I met two winemakers, the soft spoken, hard working Virginie Tinon, a 1st generation winemaker for Vignoble Tinon wines, and Jérôme Cosson on the peaceful grounds of Chateau D’Arche, with on-site lodging and a talented chef.

Both châteaux pick grapes completely by hand. I had the privilege of harvesting “noble rot” (botrytis) grapes with the workers at Chateau D’Arche. Painstaking work it is, with multiple picks required as the grapes rot at various stages, requiring multiple “picks”.

D’Arche’s on-site chef walked us through numerous mostly savory food pairings with their wines, showcasing Sauternes wines as more than just dessert wine.

Recommended wine: Chateau D’Arche‘s 2008 Chateau Costeau is 100% Semillion (from grapes in the Cadillac region of Bordeaux) with honey, peach notes but a vivid acidity keeping cloying aspects at bay. $15

The wild beauty of Ring of Kerry on the Western coast of Ireland

AT HOME in COUNTY CORK, IRELAND

West Cork is known, according to an article in Bon Appetit back in May 2008, as “the California of Ireland,” due in part to its striking coastline and artisan foods. Though I see a far wider range of produce in Northern California than I did throughout County Cork, it’s clear Cork leads the way in Ireland.

The wealth of produce showing up in Irish restaurants surpassed what I saw in London just prior, despite the fact that London has grown by leaps and bounds in dining. In Ireland, I beheld more than a mere couple types of greens, and was offered fresh vegetables and fish, locally-made meats, cheeses and products on almost every menu. Going back a few decades, they have their own pioneers of farmers markets, Slow Food cooking, and organic farming, like Darina Allen (head of the famed Ballymaloe Cooking School), who is their equivalent to Alice Waters. Not dissimilar to home.

Whether dining on the cheeses of Ardrahan, Ardsallagh, Knockalara, Gubbeen (also love their sausages), or Clonakilty’s legendary black pudding (yes, made of thick, dried blood mixed with meats, grains and vegetables), all is made in County Cork. Each are examples of the artisan quality of the region, products one finds on menus from Dublin and beyond (see my article on Dublin last issue).

Driving on the Western side of Ireland, the touristy town of Killarney nevertheless enchanted me with its quirky Irish spirit, cobblestone streets, and prime location as a gateway to the stunning Ring of Kerry. Often celebrated as Ireland’s finest coastline, a (long – allow a few hours) drive around this Peninsula is full of visual thrills and should be done at least once in a lifetime.

CORK

The city of Cork itself can feel a tad dingy. It has evolved since its more industrial days, with a few welcome pedestrian-only, cobblestone streets, marked by food destinations, like the English Market. After a few days here, I suspect I’d have been happier staying in the countryside or along the coast. The entire county is packed with goodness and Cork is a base from which to take it all in, with plenty of celebrated restaurants and pubs for when the day’s explorations wane. The more I explored its streets, the more I came to appreciate its blue collar charms. There’s gourmet finds, like dark chocolates and hot chocolates at O’Conaill’s, creative fish ‘n chips at the Fish Hatch, or a glass of wine by a plunging waterfall in the alley entrance of Greenes Restaurant.

New Midleton Distillery (where Jameson, Redbreast, Powers, and key Irish whiskies are produced), is barely a 20 minute drive away, as are darling coastal fishing towns like Kinsale. The highlight of Cork was hearing Ricky Lynch, local music legend who evokes more than just a bit of the spirit of the Highwaymen, covering everything from Johnny Cash to the Beatles with a voice that is iconic on its own.

Lynch plays every Monday night at atmospheric Counihan’s, my most memorable pub experience in Cork. As elsewhere in Ireland, locals, particularly older gentleman, struck up a conversation with us, eager first and foremost to talk music. As one of the great loves of my life, I can talk endlessly on the subject. These Irishmen spoke with glistening eyes of Bob Dylan’s upcoming concert that week right there in Cork.

The manager at New Midleton Distillery excitedly told us the same thing earlier. It seemed every Cork man over a certain age had tickets, eager to finally see their hero live. Having seen Dylan a couple times since the mid-90’s, I hope they weren’t disappointed. I’ve no doubt his shows were once unforgettable, but in recent decades he comes across a garbled mess. Dy;an could easily be playing to no audience for as little as he acknowledges (or engages) them. But for these heartfelt, rugged men of Cork, I pray that every word out of Dylan’s mouth, distinguishable or not, was a revelation. They deserve at least that.

ENGLISH MARKET – FARMGATE CAFE

After what I’d heard about the English Market, I must admit I was ever so slightly disappointed. Yes, it’s loaded with excellent local cheeses, meats, breads, juices and chocolates that reflect the talent and heart of the county. But when one has visited many of the world’s best markets and food cities, the range and scope wasn’t quite what I had hoped for. After the initial letdown, I reset my expectations and made way for my usual excitement for the best in local foods. Upstairs, Farmgate Café could not be a more appealing respite for a relaxing breakfast, lunch or pastries.

English Market is the heartbeat of County Cork’s culinary spirit, a place from which to sample many of the county’s best. The artisan breads of Alternative Bread Co. please, though I found the highlight their dense Chester Cake, an almost forgotten Cork tradition revived. A clever use of stale bread leftovers, it’s sweet, spiced and heavy with a lemon sugar icing. I ordered fresh fruit juices daily from Fruit Boost, and snagged black and white pudding from Ashley O’Neil. One needn’t go hungry at the English Market.

JACQUES

Jacques is an established Cork classic, around for 30 years, with a distinctly Irish take on French dining, utilizing local ingredients.

A light, vibrant Castletownbere crab and apple salad (€13.90) packs much flavor. Coriander, coconut, and lime perk up locally-revered crab. Piedmont peppers are stuffed with Knockalara cheese & Gubbeen salami (€9.90), harkening to Spain by way of County Cork.

A cornmeal pancake entrée is topped with red onion, courgette (zucchini), Ardsallagh goat cheese, tomato and baby caper salsa (€21.90). Rack of free range pork is perfected in a mustard Parmesan crust, atop spring cabbage and Granny Smith apple puree (€22.90).

The real deal is a €25 prix fixe before 7pm on Friday and Saturday, and all night Monday-Thursdays. A mellow retreat off an alley, Jacques’ white walls are lined with black and white photography taken by a family member in decades past, adding a vintage spirit to the modern, peaceful dining room.

CAFE PARADISO

Cork’s vegetarian destination, Café Paradiso, has cookbooks from its famed chef. The simple, casual space belies somewhat pricey dishes, although wine and a three-course €35 prix fixe is the dinner deal. Disappointment came in lackluster service from a French waitress who acted above her customers. She got our order wrong once, but did so twice with the poor table next to us, bringing out the wrong starter and entrée. The diner said she would deal with the wrong dish so as not to watch her companion eat alone. Atrocious service soured an already rainy, gloomy night.

This was even more off-putting when dishes were less exciting than hype had intimated. Potato watercress soup (€10 a la carte) with sweet pepper and walnut sounded delightful but was bland and forgettable. The same goes for a gingered sweet potato spring roll (€13) stuffed with sesame green beans, vermicilli, pickled cucumbers. A side of coconut chili dip promised flavor but did not deliver. Another lackluster dish was a feta, pistachio, couscous cake (€24) in sweet & hot pepper jam. Reading so well on the menu made each bite even more of a letdown. The winner was a hazelnut crepe stuffed with asparagus and Ardrahan cheese (€25). Topped with balsamic beetroot and lentils, hints of mustard and tarragon butter solidify the dish’s lush spirit. If it weren’t for the above-it-all, incompetent waitress, we might have considered dessert.

KINSALE

FISHY FISHY

The opposite of Cork’s dingy greys, Kinsale is a bright seaside village, Irish in spirit, evoking fishing villages the world over. Fishy Fishy is the celebrated town restaurant serving a menu of local seafood. It is particularly interesting to note the turning point for the chef/owner was coming to San Francisco years ago.

In his book and menu, he waxes eloquent about the freshness of the seafood in San Francisco and the international influences that keep its food dynamic. He talks of bringing back techniques and ideas he gathered working in SF. One sees hints of this in dishes like a salad of sauteed monkfish topped in a sweet chili sauce.

Asian ingredients and fresh salads pop up, confirming a California stamp. It was touching to find influences from my home across the world in this tiny seaside town. This is the restaurant to visit within miles and is a comfortable, cheery respite for lunch or dinner near the Irish coast.

KILLARNEY

MURPHY’S ICE CREAM

My top treat in Ireland (I went to their shops in Dublin and Killarney, with a third in Dingle), is Murphy’s Ice Cream, lush with ingredients representing the country, from Kerry Cream to Dingle Sea Salt. I went crazy over Brown Bread ice cream: it captures the dense heft of brown bread yet with creamy texture. And they make a killer dark, rich drinking chocolate, too (chili optional).

THE ENCHANTMENT OF DUBLIN

Dublin surprises me. I expect the charm of a European city, particularly that certain appeal the Irish hold, but there’s indescribably more. Despite gray days and even incessant rain one day in Summer (plus one glorious, clear night), I fell under Dublin’s eclectic, literary spell cast by Joyce, Shaw, Yeats, and the many figures who came from or made their name in these streets.

Record shops, vintage style, peaceful St. Stephen’s Green, chic shops, literature, eclectic markets, music, and most of all, the people… this city’s cobblestone streets and squares, medieval churches and cozy pubs, welcomed me in. It may not be the prettiest city (though it is by no means an eyesore), or the biggest, but it holds world class charms with a funky edge I did not expect. All this with that incomparable Irish welcome.

The Renaissance Man and I made friends everywhere, chatting with fellow diners, in pubs, and at churches,  engaging, intelligent locals blessed with a wicked sense of humor. The people are Ireland’s biggest asset and worth experiencing in their home country at least once in your life.
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I had a little preview of Ireland when wandering cobblestone, pedestrian-only lanes in London just days before, stumbling upon a singer and a pianist practicing for their evening concert in (the small) St. Bride’s Church near (the massive) St. Paul’s Cathedral. An Irish lad, Dean Power, his concert was part of Irish Heritage, a preservation organization. He sang Irish folk songs and English ballads in a clear, heartbreaking tenor. I stopped in my tracks to linger and listen. This snapshot moment captured the sadness and longing, the straightforward beauty of Ireland.

Dublin’s charms are many, some of its churches dating all the way back to the 11th and 12th centuries. I was particularly haunted by St. Audoen’s Church, receiving a personal tour from the church’s sweet staff, who take such care with this ancient space. I spent a happy hour out of the rain in the Winding Stair, with its excellent selection of local culinary and cook books. Live music at an out-of-the-way pub (see O’Donoghue’s below) is an unforgettable  must in Ireland.

Yet another surprise was how good Dublin’s restaurants were. Having just come from London, I’d had a range of good to excellent meals. Dublin not only kept pace, but in the case of produce and fresh, experimental cooking, Dublin surpassed a number of experiences I had over nine days in London. Whereas vegetables remain limited in London, Dublin was the first I saw even a few types of lettuce or greens in my couple weeks in England and Ireland. I was not remotely ready to leave Dublin and have a list of restaurants still to visit next time.

Last issue I wrote about my visit to New Midleton Distillery where Jameson, Redbreast and many Irish Whiskeys are made. Next issue, I’ll share food favorites from the incredible foodie county of Cork.

Restaurants

RUSTIC STONE

Dublin native Dylan McGrath, worked at and helmed his own Michelin-starred restaurant prior to opening Rustic Stone in the heart of Dublin. Their philosophy reminds me of home in Northern California: in homegrown ingredients, creative experimentation, with health in mind. I left here feeling invigorated, with culinary cravings satiated.

Blessedly, the menu offers half and full portions so I was able to try a wide range. It’s a menu where vegetarian, wheat and gluten free dishes are noted, as are the chef’s health notes. Yet the food does not feel hippie or even green, rather smart and fun )one can only be so “healthy” when equally known for juicy, rare steaks cooked on the stone – hence the name). Just head down to the basement where the air is thick with smoke of steaks roasting tableside.

Their most popular “bites” item are enticing chicken wings, tossed in sticky soy, roasted sesame seeds, lime zest, garlic chips, red sprouts and coriander. Salads are worthwhile, like Luscious Lime (€9.25 / €6.25) with four types of lettuce, cucumber, pickled ginger, mango, coriander and watermelon. A lime-roasted coconut, dill seed and lime dressing perfects it.

“Soups” or broths are a revelation. I’d like to see this type of presentation more, even in my own city. Poured over vegetables, each was packed with flavor. Carrot broth infused with star anise & tarragon (€5.25) is bold over fresh peas, grated carrot, mint, chervil and olive oil. Iced cucumber soup (€5.75) is poured over avocado sorbet, cucumber and tomato. Gorgeous.

A range of steaks appeal, cooked on the stone tableside, while even a chargrilled hamburger (€16.90) is playfully good, using a range of cow cuts. Herb mayonnaise, tomato lemon chutney, crispy onions and Irish smoked cheddar seal the deal inside a brioche bun with polenta chips (or fries) as a side.

Dessert was the one misstep in my meal. Though Exotic Fruit Sushi (€7.50), a roll of sticky rice, wasabi and ginger, sounded delightful, it was cold, sticky and bland. Only caramel passion fruit dipping sauce held substantive flavor.

COPPINGER ROW

Coppinger Row may be my top Dublin restaurant. Inviting, convivial and contemporary, the restaurant felt “of the moment” yet not trendy. Service was relaxed yet attentive, and both sets of tables next to us ended up striking up heartwarming conversations with us. I’ll never forget the darling and inspiring older Irish couple we chatted with at length.

Food is the main draw. Garlic & chili prawns a la plancha (€9/12) are plump, juicy shrimps with the right amount of spice. Local crab & crayfish (€12.50)  are tossed with basil and lemon in a salad tasting of Ireland, while grilled and stuffed aubergine (eggplant; €6/9) over lentils and roasted peppers is a vegetarian winner.

My favorite dish was black pudding (blood sausage) and fig rocket salad (€11.50) with blue cheese. Hearty yet with a delicate hand, it’s a gourmet version of the beloved spiced sausage recipe originating in Clonakilty in County Cork. I adore the cinnamon and clove type spices that make blood sausages so rich and layered… of course, the blood helps do that, too.

Coppinger Row is the one place in Ireland I had actual creative, current cocktails. Guavage (€13) is a recipe of guava, Hendricks gin, and fresh sage. Seemingly simple, its flavor profile melds beautifully, robust yet seamless. They also served a Pegu Club cocktail and lovely Red Currant & Rose Daiquiri.

Dessert was another highlight at Coppinger Row. With various shots of dark, hot drinking chocolate spiked with liqueurs available, I chose the Spiced Cacao (€7). It was tiny and shot-sized, but elegantly packed a punch with cacao powder, brown sugar, spiced rum, cream, and a ginger crumble on top.

JAIPUR

Indian food is solid in Ireland, if not as exceptional as in London. A place like Jaipur seems to take a few cues from London, fusing authentic dishes with creative flair. However, Jaipur is an Irish standard, having grown to multiple locations over the years.

While I can’t say the meal was as good as some upscale Indian restaurants I visited in London (my favorites here), and as locals tell me there are worthy, more casual Indian spots in town, I found service attentive and enjoyed dishes like Duck Chettiyar (free range Barbary duck breast in southern spiced coconut tamarind marinade) or Samundari Ratan (pan-seared five spice Irish scallops with cumin coconut cauliflower).

EDEN

Dublin immediately revealed what it was made of in the food realm with my first meal at Eden. In an open and bustling space, the first bite minted pea risotto ( €9.00 for a generous small plate/€15.00 large) made me sigh. Creamy and hearty, it’s laden with grilled courgettes (zucchini), asparagus, wilted rocket (arugula), topped with Parmesan shavings.

I was equally delighted with Castletownbere crab salad (€11.50). The crab is from the County Cork coastal town of Castletownbere, is tossed in curry aioli, and carefully molded over slices of beetroot, with toasts and greens atop the mound. Fresh and invigorating,

Food & Coffee

I recommend the Temple Bar Food Market held on Saturdays. Here you can taste local cheeses, oysters, breads, meats, juices, excellent coffee like Ariosa from County Meath, and so on. It is a memorable outing and snapshot of just what hardcore foodies the Irish are.

Fallon & Byrne is a foodie’s dream grocery and should not be missed (wine fans head to the underground cellar for tastings). The striking Powerscourt Centre is an architectural beauty, particularly inside it’s open atrium. It’s worth at least a peek, and is filled with food and drink options as it is with antiques and fashion.

My top treat in Ireland (I went to their shops in Dublin and Killarney, with a third in Dingle), is Murphy’s Ice Cream, lush with ingredients representing the country, from Kerry Cream to Dingle Sea Salt. I went crazy over Brown Bread ice cream: it captures the dense heft of brown bread yet with creamy texture. And they make a killer dark, rich drinking chocolate, too.

Cocoa Atelier is the best chocolate I had in Ireland, a chic outpost of drinking chocolate and elegant truffles filled with local specialties, like pot still Irish whiskey (smile from me).

Fixx Coffee is a fun locals hangout for coffee, not as third wave and robust as Ariosa, but still good with friendly, flirty staff. Bewley’s is far more touristy being actually on chain store-ridden Grafton Street, but is still a decent option for Italian-style coffees/espresso.

Being a lifelong U2 fan, I had to visit the Tea Room in their hotel, The Clarence. It was certainly less (or not at all) edgy as I’d anticipated but it’s a peaceful respite for afternoon tea, lunch, breakfast.

I was pretty disappointed in Queen of Tarts. The atmosphere is as darling and cozy inside as it appears from the outside, but mediocre tarts and dishes from breakfast menu (even the ok coffee) leave a lot to be desired. Pastries and tarts tended towards the bland and did not taste as if they were straight out of the oven. I find this interesting as it has been praised by the New York Times and beyond.

Bars

CAFE EN SEINE
Cafe en Seine is like falling down the rabbit hole into a wonderland of a Paris that doesn’t really exist except inside your dreams. It’s fanciful, over the top, and must be seen to be believed. One doesn’t go here for quality drinks per se, but even if you just walk through or stop in for coffee or tea (it operates as cafe, bar and restaurant), you’ll be impressed with this space. There is sometimes live jazz… even better.

BAR WITH NO NAME
This place has many names: The Secret Bar, 3 Fade Street (the address), or the Snail Bar (as a little snail hangs outside the entrance), and is upstairs in the boutique Kelly Hotel.

Its got that secretive feel getting in, but once inside, it’s clear the secret’s out. The place is mobbed and it is tough getting a drink. They do actually serve cocktails (€10-12.50), from classic Negronis or South Sides, to refreshers like a Lemon Basil Smash or Lavender Margarita.

The space is one big party in an 1800′s home: massively high ceilings, multiple drawing rooms, and a patio-like area covered by a red and white striped tent. The tent lends an old-fashioned carnival air to the patio. As they’re open every day from 1pm on with free wifi, I’d go back next time for a mellow afternoon respite, skipping the vibrant nighttime crowds.

FITZWILLIAMS HOTEL BAR

The Fitzwilliams Hotel off St. Stephen’s Green looks like any other hotel bar. But a trusted industry source recommended I go and ask for Alex. Alex served us a classic daiquiri and a spicy, off-menu tequila cocktail, all while talking cocktails the world round with us. It’s always heartening to meet craftsmen and women around the globe, and Alex is one at the Fitzwilliams.

LIBRARY BAR
A comfortable rainy day respite is the Library Bar (upstairs in Central Hotel). It is mellow, except for the occasional flurry of families and children. Cozy couches and a living room feel beg for a book and a coffee.

HORSESHOE BAR

Inside the uber-elegant Shelbourne Hotel is the Horseshoe Bar, a classic, horseshoe-shaped bar with red-vinyl bench seats lining the walls. Cocktails aren’t generally excellent in Ireland, but you can get a decent one here. One goes mainly for the atmosphere. It holds a retro, cozy feel, while its history includes a mention in James Joyce’s Ulysses, and a claim to being the bar where Ireland’s great band, The Chieftains, was formed.

No. 23 at the MERRION
No. 23 at the Merrion on the stately Upper Merrion Street in a row of high end hotels is a relaxing, if a bit stuffy, respite on a gray, Dublin afternoon. Old world, somewhat dated decor, a fireplace, couches and chairs and professional service are the backdrop for a French 75 that costs well over $20 (ouch!) But it was a quiet place from which to journal and collect my thoughts.

Pubs

O’DONOGHUE’S
Possibly the most magical moment in Dublin and of my entire trip was had at O’Donoghue’s. Just a block east of St. Stephen’s Green, this tiny pub is crammed with musicians in the front window jamming for hours, alternating between playing all together or in various configurations.

With a repertoire of traditional Irish music, every player is excellent, and one well over the age of 60 bought me a Scotch and started calling me Judy, saying I had Judy Garland’s soulful eyes. He flirted shamelessly with my husband right there, saying goodbye with a big kiss on my cheek.

The unreal moment came when a girl watching quietly from the cozy crowd inside the bar, began to sing a mournful Irish ballad a capella. She had the perfect voice for a ballad of love lost to death and the loneliness that ensues. Clear, angelic, sweet, she sang plaintively and humbly. I could not help but shed tears. This, my friends, is Ireland.

PORTERHOUSE
This Irish micro-brewery is actually a rarity: making truly small batch beers served around town (and in London), their multi-floored, wood-lined pub is packed with nooks and crannies in which to disappear with a pint and a book. The Porterhouse is known for their Plain Stout (which even beat out the mighty Guinness in the “Brewing Oscars“). I also like Porterhouse Red.

DAWSON’S LOUNGE
Dawson’s is billed as “the smallest pub in Ireland” with a max capacity of 24. Enter a narrow door, down even red, twisty stairs into a low-ceilinged, wood-paneled bar that evokes the 1970′s. It feels packed with far more than 24 people, yet not overwhelmingly so. A unique spot for a pint.

BRAZENHEAD
It may be touristy due to its claim as the oldest pub in Dublin since 1198 (!), but I find the Brazenhead worth a visit due to its magic atmosphere. It’s just what you want in a pub: stone walls, history, cozy, wood-lined rooms, an open air stone patio, sing-along sessions and convivial conversation. All can be had here and the setting is unbeatable. Far from the rowdy Temple Bar pubs and crowds, it’s mellow and welcoming.

LONG HALL PUB
When it’s not too packed (it can be annoyingly filled body-to-body), I enjoy Long Hall for its Victorian lamps, mahogany bar, and chandeliers reflecting off mirrors. It’s an elegant pub with over 100 years of history.

 

 

Dining in Colorado

My brother and sister-in-law recently moved to Denver which means I’ll be there more often. I hadn’t been back in 5 years and was pleasantly surprised at how the dining scene has unfolded compared to my last trip. I have a long list of recommends and suspect you, too, might find Denver an unexpectedly solid food town.

Denver Food

LINGER, Denver, CO
Probably my top overall restaurant in Denver is Linger from chef/owner Justin Cucci. It wins on many fronts: an eclectic, Asian-influenced menu grouped by continent, with nothing over $15 (except a lovely cheese platter). They focus on mostly organically sourced food from many local farmers and producers, using rice bran oil for frying. Then there’s the space. In a multi-floored former mortuary, one could get the creeps, but everything has been completely redone with recycled materials. It’s a stunningly hip, playful space with front row views of downtown.

Industrial and modern, it’s warmed by a funhouse of touches like pool table balls filling the floor next to a ramp, 1970’s smoking ads from India, and 1960’s-era mug shots covering bathroom doors. A dramatic staircase leads to an upstairs bar with that same city view. The space is festive, full of life, ideal for groups (though make reservations), particularly to share plates.

Dishes are prepared with finesse though approachable. Cocktails I tasted were made with quality ingredients though required more balance. I appreciated that they didn’t make them too sweet, though their Corpse Reviver # 2.5 went the other extreme with far too sour citrus.

Here are a few dish highlights by menu grouping:

ASIA - Korean BBQ pork on a Chinese spring onion pancake with poached egg and kimchi (everyone at the table was crazy about this one)
- A bright Pad Thai ($9) with farm egg, pickled veggies
- Cold Peanut Noodles ($7) using Kombu noodles, miso-pickled cucumbers, cilantro, radish, Fresno chilies, peanuts
- Vietnamese “Goi Bo” ($12): wok-seared wagyu skirt steak, pickled daikon, carrots, crispy shallots, peanuts, bean sprout, shrimp chips

AMERICAS - Biker Jim Dog ($9), Denver’s great local sausage, is topped with Boylan’s Cola-braised onions, layered with warm, oozing cream cheese, and a side of addictive sweet potato waffle fries with chipotle ketchup

SOUTH ASIA - Bhel Puri ($7) puffed rice, crunchy lentil noodles, chickpeas, red onion, cashews, tomatoes, cilantro, melon raita, tamarind-date chutney
- Masala Dosa ($9): rice & lentil crepe filled with masala potatoes, peas, black mustard seeds, dipped in tamarind-date chutney and coconut chutney

AFRICA & MIDDLE EAST – Chicken B’stilla ($12), my favorite Moroccan dish of a phyllo pastry filled with shredded chicken, almonds, apricots, golden raisins, Saigon cinnamon, harissa and a side of preserved lemon yogurt

BIKER JIM’S, Denver, CO
Chicago has Hot Doug’s and Denver has Biker Jim’s. All the Anthony Bourdain and press raves are rather warranted, I must say. Sports and beer overtake the casual space (newly opened – Jim’s used to be merely a food cart – those are still in operation), but sausages rule.

While not everyone is as amazing as the last, they are all so plump, juicy, and loaded with flavor… choose reindeer, rattlesnake, boar, elk, pheasant, etc… then a topping like “The International”, an irresistible mix of wasabi aioli, caramelized apples and shaved Irish cheddar. This is some seriously good eatin’.

Yes, these hefty sausages will rest heavy on your stomach (both in feeling and weight gain). I had to re-heat half a dog for later… I just couldn’t finish it. But even reheated, Biker Jim’s is one of Denver’s greatest treats.

LITTLE MAN ICE CREAM, Denver, CO
After a meal at Linger, don’t miss Little Man Ice Cream, a milk cream tower just outside the huge Linger space, with light-strewn courtyard, live music, lines down the sidewalk… a local’s favorite for homemade ice cream. Some flavors work better than others, but each are rich, evoking childhood with unfussy, homegrown heart. When it comes to flavors, I have two words for you: Salted Oreo. Oh, man.

EUCLID HALL, Denver, CO
Another striking space, Euclid Hall’s 1883 building downtown was once used for everything from Women’s Relief Corps to flea market, its pressed tin ceilings and dramatic two story, atrium-style bar/restaurant an inviting place to linger over hearty, gourmet pub fare. Yes, we’ve seen many an upscale gastropub, but I suspect there’s nothing else like this in Denver and it helps that it’s all done with exceptional quality.

The beer selection is strong, with many Colorado beers on draft, Belgians and beyond. Sean Kenyon created the cocktail menu which is an equally solid way to go. El Diablo ($8) refreshes with Pubelo Vieja tequila, Leopold’s blackberry liqueur, Regatta ginger beer and lime. Go classically boozy with a Smoking Frenchman ($11): Germain-Robin Craft Method Brandy, Domaine de Canton ginger liqueur, Talkisker Scotch and bitters.

There are many dishes ideal for soaking up craft beers. I’m delighted to see poutine on the menu, roasted duck poutine ($12) with ducky gravy, black pepper and Wisconsin cheddar curds being hearty, gut-filling food. A brat burger ($9.50) on a bretzel (aka pretzel) bun oozes with pickled cabbage, house 10,000 Island dressing and Jarlsberg cheese.

Chicken & Waffles ($12.50) are, similar to many in the Bay Area, a fresh interpretation of the classic dish using organic Petaluma chicken alongside sourdough waffles with pure maple syrup and salty walnuts. E-dog ($5) is exactly as they describe it on the menu: “all turkey kick-ass corn dog”.

A melting griddled camembert & peach preserve sandwich ($14.50) with a tasty Waldorf salad was unexpectedly my top dish. I’d crave it on a rainy day, while the salad gives crunchy green apple tart to go with the gooey, sweet sandwich. Sides ($3.50 each) of caraway spätzle and apple cabbage caraway slaw are both above-average interpretations. Finish with funnel cake fried bananas ($4) in peanut butter caramel, evoking the spirit of bananas foster.

CHOLON, Denver, CO

Cholon, a downtown Asian fusion restaurant, is a business lunch spot during the week and sleek, bamboo-lined Asian space for nighttime dining. This place particularly impressed with clean, focused tastes and preparation. It all went down well with their Full Moon Margarita ($11) using Republic Plato organic tequila, Sombra mezcal, with tamarind chili salt rim. Smoky, tart, hot yet refreshing.

I could keep popping cheesesteak wontons ($9), with quality beef and raclette fondue standing in for cheesesteak Cheez Whiz. I particularly loved lemongrass beet salad ($8): multi-colored beets are savory with blue cheese, sweet with candied walnuts, the lemongrass adding a tart kick.

Chili crab rolls ($12) are another crowd-pleaser, fresh spring roll style in rice paper wraps stuffed with crabmeat and charred corn salad with Sriracha mayo to dip.

Lunch entrees fell short of appetizers. An Asian lobster shrimp roll ($19) plays like a New England-style lobster roll tossed in mayo alongside avocado and lettuce. All in all it works, but as a pricey sandwich, it’s missing a flavor punch, as fresh and well-executed as it is.

Veggie fried rice ($10) was disappointingly bland, falling short of most hole-in-the-wall Thai versions of pineapple fried rice. There were only a couple pieces of pineapple in the whole bowl and other items from nuts to scallion were equally minimal. Only a smattering of poached egg adds some flavor.

Overall, I’d return to Cholon, which has been voted one of the year’s best new restaurant in Denver by Denver’s 5280 Magazine (so was Euclid Hall, above), due to its attention to detail and fresh focus.

TAG, Denver, CO
Under Larimer Square’s ceiling of white lights lining the street,  I sit in Tag’s small, outdoor patio. They offer a range of sake, beer and spirits, with solid, though not exceptional, cocktails ($9-11): Smoke on the Water is simple but refreshing with watermelon, Bulleit bourbon, lemon, agave; Blushing Geisha is Tyku soju, sparkling sake, lavender syrup, pineapple.

Tag chef/owner Troy Guard wins points for being willing to play, whether it all works or not. Flash-seared hiramasa ($14) is a sashimi-style platter bright with yuzu, jalapeno, white soy, tatsoi (spinach mustard green) and myoga ginger. The clincher is pop rocks dotting the dish. Admittedly, it’s not the best candy taste with fresh fish, but the textural pop is as fun as one expects (I’ve seen a handful of chefs in the past decade use this on occasion to perk up a dish). Australian kangaroo ($14) is meaty but not gamey, contrasted with watermelon, Sriracha, lime, and soft goat cheese.

Interestingly enough, Kobe beef sliders ($13) topped with gorgonzola aioli and shallot confit was the best dish, as tired and overdone as sliders are. Overall, it seemed to have the most harmony, particularly with duck fat fries, which aren’t unusual either, but dusted with a bit of sugar and spice here, are savory, sweet, and utterly satisfying. Caramelized butterfish ($13) was as lovely as it ever is, particularly with lump crab, apple, English peas, and hon shimeji (East Asian mushrooms).

Buratta cheese salad ($8) was sad with a mere couple tiny drops of buratta, and spare few cherry tomatoes and marcona almonds over greens. I usually can’t resist ordering buratta salad (as the ultimate form of mozzarella) at home… but I’ve never seen less than huge dollops of buratta. I could barely find it here.

Chef Guard makes his own ice cream flavors – some more exciting in theory than actuality. I headed straight for the most unusual: uni and salted caramel lobster ice creams ($4 per scoop). I figured they’d both be amazing together but the uni was far too salty (and I love savory desserts). Still, kudos for the concept. I’d like to see those perfected: creamy, rich and appropriately salty.

WEDNESDAY’S PIE, Denver, CO

After dinner at Tag, or anywhere else in Larimer Square, for that matter, a real treat is Wednesday’s Pie, the “front” for Green Russell, a faux speakeasy culinary bar (below). Thankfully, the shop is open all day, too, so you can pick up a pie or a slice as you wish ($20 pie, $5 slice). These are all-American pies with childhood favorite fillings.

Though I’ve had more buttery, flaky crusts elsewhere, the fillings are superb. An uber-tart cherry pie evoked summer and was my favorite. A creamy oreo and a warm apple caramel pie were happy taste experiences both. They also do chocolate peanut butter pie and vary flavors seasonally.

Denver Drink

GREEN RUSSELL, Denver, CO

It’s a speakeasy with a sign… so not really secretive in the faux speakeasy way that eventually became the rage in NYC and SF over the past decade plus. But head downstairs off Larimer Square, through darling Wednesday’s Pie shop (see above) decked out in 1950’s black and white tile with red stools, on through to a subterranean den of romance: Green Russell.

Described as a “chef-driven cocktail joint”, it is culinary cocktails like I’m used to at home. The long space snakes around a wonderfully huge bar that is runs the length of the entire space. Lined with retro red chair stools, there is no shortage of spots to sit at the bar and take in the team of friendly bartenders who clearly love what they’re doing. Behind the bar is a glass-walled greenhouse of sorts, growing a range of herbs used in their drinks.

A small food menu offers some funky, gourmet bites (like BBQ rabbit on toast). The drink menu reflects a handful of house cocktails and thought-out spirits list, though much of the fun here is chatting with your bartender about what they might make you based on your mood and preferences.

On menu, It’s Japanese ($12) followed a whiskey citrus trail with a twist. Suntory 12 year bring the Japanese piece, using Leopold’s American Orange liqueur, lemon, yuzu, and a house ginger balsamic honey. Served tall and on the rocks, it’s refreshing as it is boozy.

The highlight was a Bitter Mai Tai, a delightful recipe in the July/August issue of Imbibe magazine which I’ve been making at home on more than one occasion. Here, however, after expressing being in the mood for either a bitter (like Campari) or mezcal, willing to go either direction, my sweet bartender did both. Mezcal, Campari, orgeat (almond syrup), and orange bitters. Served over crushed ice in an icy metal cocktail shaker (sans lid), it’s garnished with mint, refreshing, smoky, creamy, bitter on the finish, awakening all the taste buds.

Green Russell marries romance and craft cocktails, making it a destination place to linger over conversation with good friends.

COLT & GRAY, Denver, CO

Next time I must dine at Colt & Gray (the type of offal, meat and fowl menu long common in big cities but ever a joy when done well). It was clear to me from the moment I sat down at the bar of this newer downtown restaurant that felt like I hadn’t left SF.

Five years ago there was nothing like this in Denver, but here I could walk in and find spirituous cocktails, both classic and new, good American whiskies, and a range of local spirits… not to mention classic films playing on a flat screen over the understated bar.

Most importantly, head barman Kevin Burke ended up being my bartender and his knowledge and skill for what he doing is, again, what I’ve long been used to at home, the kind of care that showed me what drink could be when I first converted. With plain old great service, he made me an off-menu rye cocktail with house tinctures and homemade orgeat… I was hooked.

Boulder

THE MED (aka Mediterranean Restaurant), Boulder, CO

I may not have loved entrees or Neapolitan pizza at The Med, a favorite hangout in Boulder, but all was solid. What really works is their outdoor patio courtyard with wall fountain, reminiscent of many restaurants I’ve dined at in Mexico. Happy hour tapas run 3-6:30pm every day, are merely $2-4 each, and are quite good, particularly with a tall glass of their passion fruit-laden sangria ($4). I recommend bacon-wrapped dates with garlic sauce ($3.50); ajo ($2.75), a roasted garlic bulb with balsamic jam and blue cheese; gambas ($4.25), Gulf shrimp in lime sherry vinaigrette; and tender albondiags ($3), pork meatballs in a sweet tomato sauce.

THE CUP, Boulder, CO
Strong, bracing, bold, The Cup makes a fine cappuccino that with micro-foam that goes down like silk.

Roasting their own beans and sourcing them from all over the world, the student vibe of the comfortable space does not signify typical college hangout coffee shop quality. This is the right stuff and the best coffee I had in Boulder.

Louisville

Louisville is a charming, tiny town a short drive from Denver, walkable and slow-paced. For next time, Lucky Pie intrigues with beers and pizza using locally grown-flour, and Cactus Wheel has a 60+ tequila selection, was playing 1970′s country music as I walked up, and sports a big patio out front (Mexican food there, however, looks like an uninformed white person’s idea of what Mexican food is).

SWEET COW, Street, Louisville, CO

Ice cream at Sweet Cow, a blue and white local shop with vintage lawn chairs out front and little cows for the kids to play with. Though it looks sugary and some flavors are, there are little dozens of flavors. Just start reading the long list of flavors on the back fridges. I enjoyed their ice cream sandwiches with crusty cookies evoking childhood,

PAUL’S COFFEE & TEA, Louisville, CO
Another coffee standout on my trip was Paul’s Coffee and Tea. At the Louisville Farmer’s Market on Saturday morning, it was the highlight of the market, sourced globally through a California contact and roasted locally.

 

At NEW MIDLETON DISTILLERY
County Cork, Ireland

Ireland is a green land of rolling hills, sheep and craggy coastline, to be sure. The people enchanted even more… a generous, welcoming, hilarious lot. One of my favorite people in recent Ireland travels was Liam O’Leary, distillery operations manager at New Midleton Distillery in County Cork, near the southern coast of Ireland.

The name New Midleton may not mean  a lot to some, but if you follow Irish whiskey, you know there are merely three distilleries producing publicly-sold spirits in all of Ireland and this one’s the Mother. It’s most famous as home to Jameson (founded in 1780 by John Jameson, originally produced in Dublin at the Old Jameson Distillery, which I also visited). New Midleton also produces numerous Irish whiskies including Midleton, Powers Gold Label, Tullamore Dew, Paddy, and smaller pot still brands like my longtime favorite Irish whiskey Redbreast and new love, Green Spot (oh, that it would become available in the States).

Liam hosted the Renaissance Man and I on a private tour of the grounds. Spending pleasurable hours  talking whiskey and of his 40 year history at Jameson (long before it was the huge company it is now),  we delved into a subject dear to my heart, and, it seems, to every local I spoke to: music. We watched mass distilling in action, and finished with a hearty Irish lunch in the distillery restaurant.

The New Midleton facility is to date the most colossal, high production I’ve yet seen: towering stills, control panels, endless storage buildings stacked with barrels, and the world’s largest pot still (able to hold up to 125,000 liters, or roughly 33,000 gallons), which is no longer in use but is viewable in the Old Midleton museum. Numerous copper pot stills operate simultaneously, holding a massive 75,000 liters each. The facility whirs and buzzes continuously, recalling Ireland’s past, creating its future.

Tasting Jameson

Exploring New Midleton, it’s only fitting we talk Jameson. Possibly the highlight of my trip to Ireland (and there were many), was tasting Jameson 20 year whiskey straight from bourbon barrels (of which the majority of Jameson is aged in), and alongside it, 10 year whiskey in sherry barrels, both of which are blended into higher-end final product.

Both were superb, the purest forms of Irish whiskey I’ve tasted, particularly the golden, 20 year in bourbon barrels. Its layers kept unfolding, warm, honeyed and bright, spicy, fresh with grain and fruit. Already perfection, this stuff should be bottled at cask strength on its own. The sherry cask whiskey adds round, dark notes, giving it fullness and sensual depth.

As I taste through the Jameson line at home, notes from those unforgettable barrels come back to me. I pick up various strains from the bourbon and sherry oak, all with that ever-present smoothness Irish whiskey is known for as it is generally triple-distilled. As the biggest selling Irish whiskey in the world, Jameson has done much to advance the category, while I crave pot still beauties like Redbreast and Green Spot. For further reading, Paul Clarke wrote an article in this month’s issue of Imbibe that illumines Irish whiskey’s growth, history and current status in cocktail culture.

Here are my tasting notes from sipping (multiple times) through the Jameson line:

Jameson Rarest Reserve, $279 – Rarest Reserve is the grandaddy of the line. Winning numerous awards (including this year’s Double Gold at the SF World Spirits Competition), it’s an expensive but truly special imbibement. After one explores the full-bodied aromas of ripe plum and spice, the taste impresses with toasted wood, dusty peach, dark chocolate, a hint of slate, leather and earth. Here I find encompassed the approachable yet elevated possibilities inherent in Irish whiskey.

Jameson 18yr Limited Reserve, $86.99 – The 18yr is another big award-winner, hitting my taste buds with an intense amount of peach. For me it evokes a golden summer freshness. Though I prefer it neat, it’s also lovely on the rocks. A couple drops of water allow other tastes to unfold, including orange marmalade, gentle spice, nuttiness, and biscuit. It’s soft yet bright, and could convert the non-whiskey drinker.

Jameson Gold Reserve, $60.99 – Gold Reserve is a richer whiskey than the 12yr or Jameson Irish Whiskey. I get creamy apple on the nose, a gentle honey texture and a peppery finish.

Jameson 12yr Special Reserve, $39.99 – The 12yr won Gold this year at the SF World Spirits Competition), sweet and spicy with sherry, wood notes. Oddly enough, I find its astringency is softened and rounded out with food.

Jameson Irish Whiskey, $24.99 – The original Jameson has never been my Irish whiskey go-to. I find it a bit hot and thin, despite sweet fruit, vanilla and nuts. But this is the great global seller in Irish whiskey, often the first introduction many have to the category.

 

Tobago single estate chocolate, beautiful with Angostura 1919 Rum at Taste of London

EATING AROUND LONDON

It was 10 years ago that I spent a month in England, a country I felt immediately at home in. Returning to the incomparable London last month certainly revealed changes – most for the better, including the ignited culinary and cocktail scene (I covered cocktails last issue). Maybe it wasn’t as devastatingly amazing as some claimed (and produce still falls far behind what I’m used to), but over two weeks, I ate well and broadly, pleased to see London has become a world-class dining city, along with its other endless assets.

Foodies, do not miss Borough Market, the ultimate London food destination. It may not be a produce mecca like our own Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, but it shows off the best of local foods like cheese, sausages, meats, warm savory pies and pasties, fish, curries, fresh juices (from Natural Smoothie Co.), and, yes, produce.

Sip a Pimm’s while sampling jamon from Tapas Brindisa (loved chorizo rocket sandwiches they were grilling outside). More highlights included African sauces (like coconut chili) from Bim’s Kitchen, Exquisite Deli’s Tyrolean sausages and salami, and a Rosé Spritzer (rosé wine, lemonade, Pimm’s) from Borough Wines. See more favorites below under Coffee, Chocolate, Spirits & Wine Shops.

Another event I was privileged to attend was Taste of London in idyllic Regent’s Park, similar to food and drink tasting galas in the States. Walking along purple carpets across muddy grass (it has just rained, thankfully clearing in time for the event), we tasted under tents and in makeshift cafes… an excellent way to sample from some of London’s hottest chefs and artisan food and drink purveyors. Highlights were many:

- Caramel-rich Angostura 1919 Rum, paired beautifully with just-launched Tobago Estate, a dark, lush, single-estate chocolate from the West Indies

- Raved-about restaurant Yauatcha served some of their truly excellent dim sum, including Sweet Potato Mei-Si, Venison Puffs and a Crispy Duck Roll
- Brand new Polka Gelato: the owner and her ice creams/sorbets are delightful, particularly a Pink Grapefruit/Campari/Lime Pop
- Creole Soda Bread: I wish I could find a website for these guys, though I did run across a local blogger who felt the same as I did about these addictive breads; each one was better than the last, from Carrot Cherry to Ginger Fig

- Union Hand-Roasted Coffee is fair trade – they were doing single drip cups just like I’m used to at home; they roast small-batches, delivered to individual homes, restaurants and cafes
- Hendrick’s Gin hosted a gin garden party, complete with a retro-clad hostess (dressed similar to much of my own wardrobe), and refreshing Hendrick’s cocktails
- None other than Heston Blumenthal had an ice cream cart with two flavors: Chocolate & Rosemary, and my tops, Salted Caramel Popcorn

Gelupo gelato

- Ice cream showed strong at Taste… I was crazy about Gelupo, creamy, sexy gelato (with a shop in Soho); just try not to fall in love with their Ricotta & Sour Cherry Ripple; they also served a Granita Cocktail: fresh cucumber and their rose granita doused with Hendrick’s Gin – perfecto!

**One note when dining in London: be aware that a majority of mid-to-upscale restaurants offer a dizzying number of menus, different ones for tasting, a la carte, weekends, weekdays, lunch, dinner and so on. Wanting freedom of choice, I found a la carte usually served me best and didn’t lock me into costly tasting menus.

Restaurants

Pinchito, Shoreditch – Pinchito is your quintessential tapas bar. It’s casual, convivial, and most importantly, delicious. Rounds of padrón peppers, warm cod fritters, patatas bravas, and pork belly with mango flow. Things step up a notch when a garlicky, comforting bowl of Gulas al Ajillo (baby eels) arrive, glistening in oil, slippery like fine noodles. I sip a classic Daiquiri and dive in.

Hawksmoor, two locations – Hawksmoor claims the best steaks in London… and they may be right. One of the juicier, medium-rare, dry-aged steaks I’ve ever had, their Porterhouse (£6.50/100g) is a lesson in steak perfection with just the right amount of charcoal crust. With a hefty bone one is tempted to grab onto and gnaw off, a side of plump, colorful tomatoes in olive oil adds a feminine yin to the steak’s manly yang.

Starters of a half Dorset Crab (£15) with hazelnut butter or Potted Smoked Mackerel (£6) on rustic bread please. Do not miss their impeccable cocktails, which I raved about last issue. One of their visually striking and refreshing-tasting juleps makes an ideal companion to all that North Yorkshire cow.

The Cinnamon Club, Westminster – In the Old Westminster Library, Cinnamon Club’s clean-lined, high-ceilinged library is a memorable space for upscale Indian dining. Scents of curry waft down the street as you pass Westminster Cathedral on your way inside this elegant respite.

Start off with Cinnamon Bellinis. They are better than they sound, evoking the space’s signature spice with effervescence. Executive chef Vivek Singh’s creativity with Indian flavors is impressive: you will likely have dishes here in ways you’ve never experienced them before.

Tasting menus are a pricey £75 a head. There was a Maharaja’s Express (a luxury train the chef recently traveled with) menu at £50, but I was happiest going a la carte. Thankfully, I got to try one dish each from both tasting menus: Cwalior, a selection of street-food chaat/snacks (like mini-bhel puri), and an innovative Chickpea Cake, moist, with a hint of Indian spices and mint sauce. Out of the ten dishes I tried, a key stand-out was vegetarian: Plantain ‘Kofta’ (£15) came with beetroot chutney in a yoghurt coconut sauce. Layered and exciting, it was bright, healthy and full of flavor.

Benares, Mayfair – Benares may not have been as seamless (or in as beautiful a setting) as Cinnamon Club, but it’s another upscale Indian restaurant with attentive service and inventive Indian food. I could eat Chicken Tikka Pie in a flaky pastry shell with wild berry sauce over and over again. I wasn’t going to complain about Tandoori Pigeon Breast either, especially with beet puree and vanilla beetroot accents. Their satisfying Tandoori Ratan means you can try Fennel Lamb Chop, Mustard Chicken Tikka and King Prawn on one platter. Also a pricey restaurant, a la carte is the best way to go.

Hix, Soho – Over punchbowls with Nick Strangeway, we were treated to an hours-long, private dinner in Hix‘ atmospheric, candlelit basement. Our Chop & Trout Feast just kept coming. Rounds of asparagus salad topped with with soft-boiled Burford brown eggs, British Isles rock oysters, and potted smoked salmon flowed. The baked Bone Marrow shimmered with garlic and herbs, buttery slathered on toasts. It may be the exemplary bone marrow dish among the many I’ve had. Lemon Ginger Nut Cheesecake arrived shaped like a creamy egg, a fine finish to a true feast.

St. John’s, Farringdon – Fergus Henderson and his restaurant St. John’s revolutionized London (and the world’s) dining scene since it opened in 1994. Nose-to-tail, whole animal, offal… whatever you call it… had its renaissance at the hands of Henderson via this humble restaurant in an open, rustic room, tables lined with butcher paper.

Other than having a downright snotty French waiter, which did not suit the environment (and is really unforgivable any time), we enjoyed famed Roasted Bone Marrow & Parsley Salad (£7.10 – although I preferred Hix‘ version, above), Venison Saddle alongside green beans and pickled walnut (£9.70), Ox Tongue with fennel & green sauce (£16.70), and a comforting slice of Welsh Rarebit (£5.20). Though pretty, a Chocolate & Cherry Pot (pot de creme) was an ok finish. Stick to the animal parts as that is what St. John’s is all about.

Saf, Shoreditch – I know it may seem strange for a carnivore in London to “waste” a meal on all vegetables, particularly when underwhelmed with produce throughout my weeks here. But it may be because of this very reason I wanted to know there was a place doing produce right and inventively. I’d heard from a couple sources that Saf was hands-down the best vegetarian in London. After I visit, I can see why.

Eating at the original, sit-down location (not their more casual restaurant in Whole Foods), portions may appear small, but entrees were larger and by meal’s end, I was full. Nothing is over £15.50), which is a steal in London for a hip restaurant such as this.

Of the eight dishes I tried, stand-outs included raw ‘Caviar’ Blinis (£7.50), or rather sweet potato blinis topped with beetroot & herbs balled into tiny ‘caviar’, and a Taco Trio (£14.45) of three mini-blue corn shells filled with pineapple relish, guac or tomato. They were having fun with cocktails like Sgt. Pepper (£8.85): Cazadores Tequila, pink peppercorns, red grapes, peach liqueur, lemon juice. I asked them to tone down the peach liqueur to make it less sweet – they obliged and as I hoped, pink peppercorn and tequila shone through.

Hakkasan, Mayfair - Hakkasan is big in India… and London. The bar serves cocktails on the chichi, fruity side, though there’s a broad spirits selection. With subterranean basement and deafening roar, it’s a bit scene-y for me, but thankfully the upscale Chinese food satisfies. Their dim sum platter is particularly artful, loaded with traditional options like scallop shumai and har gow, but brightened with roe and colorful dumpling wrappings. Meat dishes and stir fries are all tasty, though not exactly traditional Chinese. Crispy Duck Salad was the best dish, with its sweet/salty shreds of duck accented by pomelo, pine nut and shallot.

El Camino (which has become El Camion, though sign still says Camino), Notting Hill – For a hint of where NOT to go, I was struck by just how bad “Mexican” food was at otherwise adorably hip El Camion (sans a single Mexican on staff during my visit). It tasted not much better than the “Mexican” I had in London 10 years ago, though a Mexican food craze has swept the city in recent years. There must be better than this around town (?), but I still find without a significant Mexican population, it seems hard to do Mexican right. Most of the US and the world generally don’t get it right, it only makes sense that London doesn’t either (despite claims I’ve heard to the contrary). That is, unless you consider gummy gunge to be guacamole (with stale grocery store chips), or thick flour tortillas and a worse-than-Pace-Picante red paste (I mean “salsa”) to be the real deal. (PS – in typical London fashion, you’ll also pay nearly $15 US dollars for two little tacos).

Breakfast

Ottolenghi, Islington - Brunch at the original location of ever-popular Mediterranean bakery Ottolenghi was as delightful as I’d heard (Yotam Ottolenghi himself is in SF this week and has been blogging rave reviews about the experience). In a clean, white space, creative savory and sweet baked goods make a dramatic mountain piled atop the counter. Just try to decide which cake, tart, muffin or other glorious baked goods you’ll choose. Their breakfast menu is likewise fresh and enticing, especially Sweet Corn & Spring Onion Pancakes (£8.50) with roasted tomato (a British staple), bacon, avocado cucumber salsa, and sour cream.

Modern Pantry, Clerkenwell - Downstairs from our fabulous Zetter Townhouse, off a cobblestone cul de sac, is this charmer of a restaurant. I recommend Modern Pantry’s airy, light-filled space for breakfast. Service was about the most caring I had anywhere in London. When I didn’t finish one plate (due to ordering too many and thus full), they were concerned we didn’t like it. Without a guilt trip, they wanted to replace it and make it right. I insisted all was lovely. And it was. Try Spiced Red Wine-poached Tamarillo (£5.80): tart and robustly red, warm fruit, in a creamy Greek yoghurt drizzled with Manuka honey.

Kipferl, Islington – Just opened in April, Kipferl, an Austrian café off darling Camden Passage (a narrow, cobblestone-lined street evoking Old World Europe), is nearly museum-like in its quiet. It’s a bit unnerving if you wish to talk (sit in the back for that). The majority of solo diners are in the front room, bright under big, picture windows. I heartily recommend it as a respite to read, write, work or think over a Viennese coffee. Pastries are a bit hit-and-miss (I had a dry poppyseed cake), but made with care, while a long Austrian sausage oozes with cheese inside, draped over a mound of near perfect sauerkraut.

Caravan, Clerkenwell – At the Aussie/Kiwi-influenced Caravan, coffee is impeccable while lemon curd/cream cheese/coconut bread is topped with rhubarb and served for breakfast. Get a table outside along the cobblestone, pedestrian-only Exmouth Market street, and it feels truly like Europe.

The Wolsley, St.James/Mayfair - Touristy or not, the gorgeous Wolsley Hotel (around the corner from my St. James hotel, Duke’s) hosts a breakfast evoking Old World elegance. Coffee is strong, served in delicate white cups, paired well with a flaky pain au chocolat.

The real winner is a traditional British omelette, the Arnold Bennett (£10.75), originally named after Arnold Bennett at the Savoy Hotel as he loved it there so much, he insisted it be made for him wherever he traveled. It’s a creamy, egg-y dream, salty with smoked haddock, in a creme fraiche and Parmesan cheese sauce. The lovely Sophie Dahl shows you how to cook one  of these sinfully rich breakfasts here.

Blanche, Hammersmith – Out in the friendly, peaceful neighborhood of Hammersmith, I loved Blanche Eatery, a closet-sized shop making an excellent cappuccino, delectable baked goods (like lime poppyseed cake) and various to-go salads (quinoa, Mediterranean-style, etc…)

Coffee

Monmouth Coffee, Borough Market near London Bridge – You can’t miss Monmouth Coffee at the edge of the ultimate British market, Borough Market (with two other locations). It’s Blue Bottle-esque for all you Bay Area folk, i.e. lines stretch out the door all day long. And it’s of that caliber. Probably the best cup I had in London.

Espresso Room, Bloomsbury – On a rainy day (one of many), as I wandered the streets of Bloomsbury and explored Charles Dickens house, Espresso Room was like a beacon in the chilly June air. I was on the hunt for it, knowing it immediately by the carved-wood coffee cup hanging from a storefront on a mostly residential street. I could have been in the Mission in SF watching young hipsters grind beans in a tiny, wood-walled shop. It warmed up the grey day immediately (another nearby respite is The Lamb, a 1700′s pub all-the-more cozy with a good book – purportedly Dickens hung out there).

Third wave, robust coffee – and just a plain good cup – has hit London full force. There’s a long list of spots to sip a proper cup. Here are just a few more to recommend: Taylor Street Baristas, Flat White, Milk Bar, Dose, Store St. Espresso and Kaffeine.

Chocolate

Paul A. Young, Islington – On par with the best chocolates I’ve had anywhere in the world, Paul A. Young’s truffles (£2 each) are so fresh and luxurious, not to mention unusual, I’m still dreaming about them.

With a shop on charming Camden Passage (near Kipferl, above), Young was also at the Taste of London. He rose to fame as pastry chef for the likes of Marco Pierre White. Yes, he can do a Sea Salted Caramel and Dark Chocolate Champagne truffle like no other. But try Marmite for earthy, funky fun, or Passion Fruit & Vanilla, or Peppermint Leaf. Even among the best chocolatiers, I love some truffles and not others. But eight truffles later, I was loving every one of Young‘s.

The Rabot Estate, Borough Market - The chocolate stop at Borough Market, Rabot Estate is a rustic, hip shop with staff roaming the store pouring cups of free dark hot chocolate, salvation on chilly, rainy days.

A dark chocolate chili bar particularly won me over with lush base of their Santa Lucia-grown chocolate. You can also order bites from their menu like banana, salted caramel & cacao nibs on toasted brioche or duck confit salad with chocolate dressing and orange marmalade. You can see why I love this place.

Artisan du Chocolat, Borough Market – Artisan du Chocolat is at numerous London shops and high-profile department stores such as Selfridges. I bought a box at Borough Market. Unlike with Paul A. Young, I was disappointed in a number of their truffles, though they are at least half the price of Young’s chocolates. Artisan du Chocolat makes intriguing flavors like banana & thyme, tobacco, or lumi (sun-dried lime). I just wish all tasted as amazing as they sounded.

Spirits & Wine Shops

Whisky Exchange, Borough Market - About the best whiskey shop in the world? Whisky Exchange just off Borough Market could easily contend for that tile. A leading website for whisky, they sure know their Scotch, Irish and Japanese whiskies. But I was impressed with their expertise on American whiskies. Having met many of the world’s greatest distillers, Hector swapped stories and favorite bottles for a good hour with us. He’s a veritable whisk(e)y encyclopedia. We left with a couple special whiskies they bottle in-house. Spirits aficionados, don’t miss this place on your next visit to London.

Utobeer, Borough Market – A truly impressive little section inside Borough Market, Utobeer wows with a well-curated beer selection, including a number of the US’s best craft beers from Goose Island in Chicago to OC’s The Bruery. As some London locals tell me, many Brits don’t believe America has any clue what a good beer is, one of many reasons Utobeer‘s selection is a rarity and a boon for the city. I was particularly impressed with London-brewed craft beer from The Kernel, wishing we had that one here.

Berry Bros. & Rudd, St.James/Mayfair - Around the corner from my St. James hotel, Duke’s, Berry Bros. & Rudd may exhibit a bit of a rarified air, but is a classic spirits and wine shop. Their spirits selection is far smaller than at Whisky Exchange, but extremely well-curated. First and foremost, it’s a wine-lovers destination. Open since 1698, the space evokes Old World London with creaky wood floors, old chandeliers and coffee scales from its original shop. Along with neighboring Fox of St. James, a cigar shop frequented by Winston Churchill who’s chair sits in the basement smoking lounge, and the unreal artistry of John Lobb, a very high end shoe shop and cobbler, St. James Street is lined with historical, evocative shops worth spending time in.

The incomparable Alessandro Palazzi at Duke's prepares martinis tableside

7 Themes in Exploring London’s Cocktail Scene

Twenty-five bars across multiple areas, from Notting Hill to Hoxton… I did some serious exploring of London’s famed cocktail scene, from cutting-edge experimentation to divey comfort, legendary classics to just-opened destinations. I sipped with cocktail luminaries like Nick Strangeway over dinner at Hix, and imbibed incognito. As I dig into the scene in any city I travel, here’s my take-aways from London.

1. Incredible experimentation and creativity – It’s true: there’s some cutting edge stuff going on in London Town. 69 Colebrooke Row is known as a standard of experimentation thanks to drink pioneer Tony Conigliaro. Visiting their test lab, Drink Factory (“a collective of like minded bartenders and artists”), is a revelation. Here they explore numerous flavors via a collection of expensive lab equipment from sous vide to centrifuge. This is far beyond infusions.

When you taste a Rhubarb Gimlet, you get the pure tart of fresh rhubarb stalks, its essence extracted from a centrifuge. This gimlet was among the best cocktails of my visit to London. Simple yet complex, it vibrantly showcased rhubarb and Beefeater gin with a twist of grapefruit.

Bartender Marcis Dzedelanis walked us through the lab equipment, making a dirty martini with olives in the centrifuge – a briney, smooth imbibement. I put drops of their aromatic tinctures on my wrists, releasing intense aromas. Conigliaro’s team works as perfumer, scientist and alchemist combined (even if they seemed a bit serious and subdued).

The Drink Factory/Colebrooke crew recently took on the fabulous, new Zetter Townhouse bar (the top hotel of my trip). They’ve created a cocktail menu (£8.50 each) of understated yet intricate sips like a Nettle Gimlet with Beefeater gin and house nettle cordial, or a musky Master at Arms with Myers rum, port evaporation and homemade grenadine.

I like the funky Flintlock: Beefeater gin, gunpowder tea tincture, sugar, Fernet Branca, dandelion and burdock bitters. Zetter’s British drawing room, whimsically peppered with taxidermy (a full-sized kangaroo!), gramophone, mismatched furniture, plus a stately yet quirky basement gaming room, is among London’s best spots (old or new) to linger over drinks (reserve a table ahead during prime times as it remains packed at nights – it is open all day).

My other real stand-out bar was spanking new (only 4 weeks old at the time I visited): Worship Street Whistling Shop. Difford’s CLASS magazine just posted an article this week on wood in barrel-aging cocktails, mainly talking with one of Whistling Shop’s owners, Tristan Stephenson. I chatted with bar manager Ryan Chetiyawardana, who some may know from his Bramble Bar days in Edinburgh and a stint at 69 Colebrooke Row.

First off, the atmosphere enchants. Candlelight glows warm against dark woods and a classic organ, with more than a hint of Victorian-era influences in the basement bar. There’s a Prohibition-era nod to bathtub gin in a small room with antique bathtub, and, yes, plenty of gin, including some real rarities. There’s also a tiny, glass-walled ‘lab’ where Chetiyawardana showed us their Rotovap (for distilling at low temperatures). Here they create bitters, tonics, and special ingredients like “Walnut Ketchup” (nothing like ketchup but rather port wine, green walnut, chocolate, saffron and spice – used in a lovely Punch & Judy cocktail (£9.50) with Ron Zacapa 23 rum and crisp, clean malic acid).

Wonders are many here, from a ‘simple’ House Gin Fizz (£8.50) utilizing vanilla salt, orange bitters, extra virgin olive oil, and soda, to a conversation-starter, The (Substitute) Bosom Caresser (£9), layered with baby formula milk (you heard right), Hennessy Fine de Cognac, dry Madeira, house grenadine, salt and pepper bitters. A pricey Champagne Gin Fizz (£80 for a 75cl bottle) takes No. 3 gin, lemon, sugar, fermenting the ingredients with yeast via méthode champenoise, a classic process of secondary fermentation in the bottle usually reserved for high-quality sparkling wines. The fizz is an elegant, integrated beauty.

Some of Whistling Shop‘s most profound joys come from a row of mini-casks behind the bar where a range of spirits sit infusing with an intriguing mix of ingredients. Though the barrel-aged cocktail craze has swept the world at this point, I tasted a range here I’ve yet to see at any one bar.

Gin & Pep (£9) salutes the Victorian era with gin and vintage Crème de Menthe in new oak. WS2 ‘Whisky’ (£30) ages Balvenie with beech, maple and peat syrup in new oak. I found the WS2 ‘Genever’ (£10) one of the most captivating: Tanqueray gin, Caol Ila Scotch, green malt, spices, aged in sherry oak.

Wherever you turn at this bar, you’ll find the unusual… most of it balanced and delicious, while the staff and vibe are comfortable, classy. Just the kind of place I’d love to have in my own city.

2. Well-made classics (with a twist) - You’ll hear more from me on the juicy steaks at Hawksmoor (two locations). But for now, let’s talk cocktails. This is Nick Strangeway territory, where friendly bartenders continue his tradition of well-crafted drinks.

I was delighted to order from a menu with line-up of juleps, cobblers, punches, et. al. My St. Regis Mint Julep (£7.50) took a long time to be made (nearly 15 minutes), but was worth it. In this 1930′s New Orleans recipe, rye whiskey and Cuban rum form the base, while homemade grenadine rounds it out. It comes (blessedly) in a traditional julep cup (though non-traditionally caked in thick ice), with vivid garnishes of berries and mints, tasting like a proper Southern julep. Compared to other smoke-infused cocktails, I would have liked to taste more tobacco in their Tobacco Old Fashioned (£8), but with rye and house tobacco bitters, it was still a beautifully-executed Old Fashioned.

Montgomery Place is retro meets modern: mellow, classy, where we made friends with fellow bar patrons (even Stanley Tucci sat by us – adore him since Big Night directing days). This is a place I’d return to for environment alone. I can’t say drinks overly impressed, though presentation is top-notch with dramatic garnishes. I stuck to house cocktails rather than ordering classics I can get anywhere at home (and make myself). The menu is extensive so there are surely pleasures inherent, although sipping a couple from the Acqua Vitae (whiskey) section of the menu produced drinks either too sweet or underwhelming. Bar Manager Ales Olasz’ passion is absinthe, so absinthe paraphernalia and fountain line the bar. He emphatically recommended C. F. Berger Verte Suisse 1898, and it took me a minute to realize that’s Ted Breaux‘ higher-end absinthe, which I enjoy but have had a few times – would rather have gone with something harder to locate in the States.

3. And then… not so much – It’s incredible how many acclaimed London menus are still littered with flavored vodkas and fruity, chi-chi (or just plain played-out) drinks. I witnessed entire groups of friends each with a mojito in hand in bars that carried extensive, fascinating menus. Eager and expectant to have my mind blown by London’s drink scene, I hate to say there were more disappointments than I anticipated. Of course experiences can be outstanding, but one has to be more choosy than just going to the most lauded cocktail havens.

If you are nearby, peek inside the brand new Booking Office in the other-worldly St. Pancras hotel. After years of restoration, this Victorian Gothic masterpiece (a film site for “Harry Potter” movies) just re-opened while I was in London, reflecting its full glory in massive arches and cavernous ceilings. Drinks were solid, particularly a Pimm’s No. 1 Cup and a punch-of-the-day, Billy Dawson’s Punch (Jamaican rum, demerara sugar, lemon, VSOP Cognac, Batavia Arrack, porter), served out of copper bowls, while Charles Dickens Punch was pleasing but sweet. The short menu given in the bar seemed generally basic (download the full menu here), particularly from expert consultants Nick Strangeway and Henry Besant. The letdown was that vibe, clientele and bartender knowledge (or lack thereof) felt strictly tourist hotel bar, though service aims to please.

1930′s tunes and the classy, basement vibe of Nightjar work in the scheme of speakeasy-themed bars. But clientele appeared to be not a day over 18, making the place feel like “kindergarten just let out”, as The Renaissance Man said. Flamboyantly garnished but crappy-tasting drinks make it a place to avoid rather than go to. Despite a beautiful menu, “signature” cocktails tasted of juice (Pedro Pamaro) or smoky tea (Name of the Samurai) but not at all of alcohol. The only “win” was a surprisingly good canape platter. For a mere £6, one can get 6 tasty, generously-sized canapes until 2 or 3am. This is significant when you realize how impossible it is to get even a bite to eat in London’s hippest neighborhoods after 11pm (just try!)

Islington’s Wax Jambu attempts to elevate fruity cocktails. Their bartenders are delightful, garnishing creations with fresh fruit, herbs and a wink. But the inventive sound of cocktails like Junglist Julep (£8) didn’t taste as good as they looked. A bartender described it as savory with Bitter Truth’s fabulous celery bitters but instead it was soapy/floral due to a heavy hand with house rose syrup in Four Roses bourbon, plus flavorless mango.

Shoreditch’s brand new Ninety Eight Bar & Lounge is a chic surprise down a curvy, wrought-iron staircase. White walls and furniture, animal prints, quirky touches like lamps made with balloons, Louis XIV French design… it’s high-end eclecticism. The idiosyncratic space is a pleasure to linger in, as oddly inventive as its owner, who chatted awhile with us over cocktails. Upstairs there’s a mixology classroom with individual, well-equipped bar stations for teaching cocktail craft. I’m not sure who’s teaching (seems it’s mostly being rented out by corporations for staff functions), but it’s an impressive set-up.

The downside? The drinks. Sweetness plays a heavy hand in drinks like Apricot Jam Comfort (what’s with all the SoCo I saw flowing in London?), utilizing apricot-infused SoCo with apple juice and apricot jam. Tasting the infusion on its own, yields sugary excess. Off in the Clouds is a memorable presentation of fluffy white, cotton candy ‘clouds’ with sky-blue, gin & lavender-infused vodka poured over. I’m not sure how why you wouldn’t use gin vs. vodka in the first place but I couldn’t taste lavender, only sugar.

Baked Bean Delight (Karlsson’s vodka infused with black peppercorn, baked beans and egg white) intrigued but came off sludgy, though they are using one of the best vodka brands out there. Surprisingly, Labito worked best – a lavender mojito with rum, blueberries and mint – was refreshing and well-balanced. I tasted a number of their infusions: some creative, some typical, many needing more time (or having had too much in the case of apricot SoCo). I like the staff and unique vibe of Ninety Eight and trust that drinks could be improved upon?

4. Pomp sometimes outweighs taste - Expectations were high for my visit to the lauded Artesian at the Langham. The gorgeous, airy room is illuminated with Asian-meets-French decor, romantic and intimate. An extensive menu hosts a brilliant flavor-profile map to help choose a cocktail to suit your mood. All seemed to confirm how special this place was.

I was prepared for pricey £16 cocktails (roughly $25), but wasn’t prepared for the menu to read better than it tasted. The stand-out was Cask Mai Tai (£15), a cask-aged Mai Tai, deeply spiced and fall-like with tart lime and fresh mint.

However, Silk Route (£15), an intriguing milk punch of Batavia Arrack, Pimento Dram and Elements 8 Platinum Rum, was bland with a funky aftertaste. I wished for its sun-dried roasted coconut and lime to come through. A pipette of bitters to squeeze into the drink was a nice touch, adding some dimension to what tasted mostly of milk.

Alexino (£15), inspired by a classic Alexander, sounded luscious: Ron Zacapa 23 Rum shaken with whipping cream, red bean paste and aromatic spices. It could have been the perfect dessert, but I tasted little red bean or spice, while the bean paste sat sludge-like at the bottom of the glass. Granted, red bean is not an easy ingredient to mix in a drink, but at roughly $25 a cocktail, each should be exemplary.

At stunning hotels, I was served by star bartenders. At the Connaught, it was Agostino Perrone, who I watched win Tales of the Cocktail‘s International Bartender of the Year last year. He’s suave and professional with an eye for presentation. I was rather shocked, however, after tasting 10 different cocktails, each dazzling with elaborate garnishes in varying glasses, to find that only two of the ten actually worked for me. One was too sour, another, too sweet, one actually tasted like Fun Dip. An off night?

Even the theatrics of his famous martini cart, a visual treat prepared tableside, didn’t quite deliver in taste. Perrone adds one of his house bitters to gin and dry vermouth – in our case, it was cardamom, a flavor I adore but one that didn’t necessarily enhance the martini (I’d rather return to Duke’s – see point # 7 – for a classic martini). That being said, the Connaught is still an elegant, refined respite for drink, romance and conversation.

5. Spirit of fun… a saving grace from annoying members-only bars - Despite my heightened anticipation for the C.S. Lewis-meets-Lewis Carroll vibe and fine drinks I’d heard about at Hoxton’s Calooh Callay, it disappointed for two reasons: velvet-rope crowds and its back room policy.

I understand reservations for “secret” bars, having done that for years in SF and NY. I prefer quiet spots to enjoy with friends, loathing clamoring “scenes” and reservation-only bars often make this possible. But memberships are another thing. I noticed widespread members-only bars and restaurants in London. Memberships are often very expensive just for the right to make a reservation in a space. Through Calooh Callay‘s wardrobe door (a la Narnia), sat a half empty room. When we couldn’t stand the body-to-body screeching of the main bar, we wandered to this blessedly mellow space. They didn’t bother to explain the room was members-only, only that they they were “booked up”. It’s frustrating as a spirits/cocktail aficionado to find exclusivity hits against the people who would value a place most. I guess it was better the room sat half empty in order to maintain its exclusivity?

Though we left that obnoxious setting as fast we could, the saving grace was the bartenders’ gaiety. Young guys slinging bottles and shakers through the air were clearly having a good time, despite a mobbed room. They answered my questions with good cheer, engaging me with jokes. Best of all, drinks didn’t come with extensive garnishes and excess show as I’d grown accustomed to elsewhere around the city. They were all balanced… and delicious. Playful drinks on a comic book menu heightened the fun. Beetroot gets proper treatment in Beets Me (£9) with a touch of passionfruit, Beefeater 24 gin, Aperol and lemon. Slightly bitter, earthy and sweet, it was perfectly harmonious. The Helm (£9.50) did Scotch right serving Glenmorangie Original with lemon, orange, orange bitters and red currant jelly. Turbulent Truce (£9) had fun with Pisco Aba, maraschino liqueur, lemon, tarragon sugar. Batavia Arrack adds complex notes, while egg white keeps it light.

A welcome watering hole is months-old Happiness Forgets, a chic dive, if there ever was one. Owner Alastair Burgess has lined up rotating, star bartenders serving classics and straightforward cocktails. Burgess is having a good time with his little Hoxton respite – a place for conversation in dim, basement setting, at a welcome £7 per cocktail. Sipping a Mexican Sunset (tequila, Campari, lemon, agave, bitters), I appreciated the menu’s promise of “Mixed Drinks and Mischief”. Happiness Forgets doesn’t take itself too seriously… all while serving fine drinks.

Notting Hill’s Trailer Happiness is maximized “American” kitsch. It’s an oddly delightful amalgam of topless Hawaiian hula statue at the entrance, underground 1970′s den replete with shag carpeting, wood-paneled walls, and Tiki/Caribbean cocktails. The menu has Tiki, rum, classics, and house classics sections, slumming it with the likes of SoCo in drinks such as Bueller made with Woodford Reserve, Southern Comfort, Grand Marnier, lemon and peach puree. Better yet, prices hover in the £7 range.

On the same Notting Hill block as Trailer Happiness is another quintessential hangout with good tunes. Portobello Star is small, intimate, full, yet not obnoxious. Everyone has a seat and though bartenders are slow to get drinks out, no one bugs you to keep ordering. Sit in conversation as long as you like. It’s mellow, with the warm glow of a cozy, neighborhood bar. Pina Coladas and Strawberry Daiquiris sit alongside a Whiskey Smash or Bramble (in the £7-8 range), all well-made, the menu offering a little history behind each cocktail.

Another joy of a bar is the closet-sized Casita in Shoreditch. With the coolest, laid-back bartenders making playful sips with names like Rhubarb & Custard, it’s a fun spot with Mexican luchador spirit (and masks). They also make the best sangrita, a green twist on the traditional, spicy with jalapenos, tart with lime, luscious.

6. Cocktails are way over-priced – As with everything in London, cocktails will cost you. Expect to pay £12-18 for most cocktails in hotels and £8-14 at bars. In US dollars, this is roughly $19-28 (!) or $12-22. Often cocktails are not superior to what one can find in great cocktail cities elsewhere, in fact, many cost that much made with brands like Jim Beam or the aforementioned SoCo.

7. Sometimes classic is best - It was a thrill to visit the dazzling Savoy, legendary for celebrities who frequented the bar (like Sinatra, Chaplin, Noel Coward, Judy Garland).

Among cocktail lovers, it’s known as a key place cocktails (an American invention) were popularized in Europe, thanks to Harry Craddock, a US citizen who fled to London during Prohibition, publishing the Savoy Cocktail Book, a must-have in any serious cocktailian’s library. Called the American Bar, it definitely feels a bit touristy with schmaltzy vocalist (I’d love some instrumental tunes from that stately grand piano at the center of the bar). White-jacketed bartenders maintain the retro vibe though over-sized, average cocktails don’t as much.

The Hanky Panky was created here by Ada Coleman – the ultimate Fernet Branca cocktail. I sampled an amped-up version here made with all kinds of spirits, including Fernet, that should not have worked together, but did. The recent and extensive revamp of the Savoy has restored it to full glory, and a mini-museum in the bar showcases its vibrant history. Cocktail enthusiasts should visit once in their lives.

I’ve saved one of the best for last: Duke’s. This elegant, small hotel (where I stayed first on my trip) is a temple to the martini, though they also house the new PJ Lounge for champagne, plus a cognac and cigar garden. I can see why the bar was frequented by James Bond author Ian Fleming and other martini lovers over the years: I cannot recall a more perfect martini I’ve had anywhere. Head barman Alessandro Palazzi is among the most delightful, consummate bartenders I’ve had the pleasure to be served by. As he wheels out a trolley laden with olives, lemons, ice and gorgeous barware, he impressed immediately with his gin knowledge.

Asking where we were from, he immediately launched into his love of San Francisco gins, 209 and Junipero, saying he’s long been extolling the glories of Junipero. He knew distillers Arne and Fritz, and is well-versed and intimately acquainted with the best gins the world over. A world class bartender.

I asked for London’s Sipsmith gin in my martini. Alessandro proceeded to bring out another locally-produced, small distiller, Sacred, so we could compare side-by-side. He mixes his martinis to icy perfection, gin’s bite tempered with the refreshing cool of dry vermouth and a hint of lemon. This tiny, quiet haven remains among my favorite memories of London. Three cheers for Alessandro!