Dining & Sipping
in the city of BORDEAUX

A week loaded with fatty duck, foie gras, canneles, and, of course, wine… such was my time in Bordeaux (see last issue on Bordeaux winemakers).

Try tasting numerous wines from morning till night in weather just shy of 90 degrees. Though I was craving a good cocktail and a salad by week’s end, I was complimented by locals who deemed my eat-everything-(with gusto)-approach as “very French”. Another local informed me that with picky eaters (I’m sorry, that includes vegetarians in their book), they are polite, “but we do not invite them back. We’d invite you back.”

The city of Bordeaux (founded in the 3rd century A.D.) is a pleasant surprise. Having undergone a series of renovations and renewal over the past fifteen years, its Beaux Arts architecture, narrow, cobble-stoned streets, and new tramway, enliven the ancient, narrow streets, the historic district closed to cars. As the 6th largest city in France, it is bustling and full of things to do, yet approachable and walkable.

I fell most deeply into its charms getting lost wandering cobblestone streets, happening upon exquisite, hand-crafted shoemakers, elegant boutiques and home decor shops, enchanting tea cafes, countless bars and restaurants, opening into animated squares lined with tables. Basically some of the prime joys found in European cities are present in this small, bustling city that is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

As a base from which to explore vineyards of the storied region, Bordeaux is packed with sidewalk cafes, restaurants and bars (though give up now, ye cocktail lovers, on even getting a drink that resembles a cocktail – an Americano with Campari, sweet vermouth and soda is as good as it’s going to get).

Forget even finding much cognac, armagnac, calvados or other French spirits. As I was told in many a bar, those products are not made in their region specifically (even if produced merely an hour away) so they don’t offer them (!?) Every bar stocked plenty of Bacardi, Jim Beam, and other big brand, sub-mediocrity, however. Havana Club and Coke was the only drink that didn’t do me wrong. The Cuban rum’s inaccessibility in the US makes the otherwise average rum even more appealing.

This is wine country after all, and they’re sticking to that. Thankfully, the wine is excellent and I had many an affordable  bottle with heartwarming French meals.

FOOD

JEAN d’ALOS FROMAGERIE

I wanted to sample every last cheese in the pristine, renowned Jean d’ Alos cheese store. Clean and spare, cheeses are elegant, some looking like candies in colorful herb molds. Fabulously smelly, this little store is a French cheese lovers’ paradise (exporter is Patricia Dubourg, patricia[at]fromages-jean-dalos.com).

La MAISON DARRICAU

Owner, Nathalie, and chocolatiers, Michel & Lawrence, have created both a charming, romantic little shop and memorable chocolates. Truffles are creative, made fresh daily, and consistently lovely. I enjoyed Violette, Médoc (filled with wine from the region), Gingembre (ginger), Basilic (basil), Setchuan (Szechuan pepper), Datte (date with curry), and the excellent Prunoux (prune, almond paste, Armagnac).

MAISON GEORGE LARNICOL

Despite an odd policy of no photos and seemingly disinterested staff, Maison George Larnicol, is a shop I was drawn to multiple times for bins of Les galets des Glénan (mini-chocolate discs topped with crystallized ginger, mango, apples or nuts), Les rochers des Glénan (clusters of dark chocolate, almonds,  orange), and Noisettes enrobées (dark chocolate-coated hazelnuts).

Their macarons are delightful and intensely flavored, particularly passion fruit. They are also known for their kouignette, mini kougin-amann, a Breton  sticky cake, layered with caramelized sugar and salted butter (these became trended in SF last year). The store is conveniently located off the city’s main square across from the Opera House/Grand Theater.

AMORINO

Granted, it’s a European chain with a shop in NYC, but Amorino, founded by two Italians who know gelato, is far and away the best ice cream I had in Bordeaux. It’s real deal gelato (try Amarena cherry). They won me over with Speculoos. Speculoos is a Belgian cookie redolent of cinnamon, sugar, nutmeg, pepper and spices, rather like a spiced graham cracker. It tastes amazing combined with their fresh banana ice cream.

RESTAURANTS

WINE & SOUL

The newer Wine & Soul was my favorite meal in Bordeaux. Run by a gracious young couple, the decor is reds and blacks with LPs as table settings, soulful tunes in the background, and a vintage Marx Brothers movie poster.

The food is French with a Spanish tapas approach and Italian nods. Caprese salads and shrimp cocktail stand alongside beef filets.

The best dishes? A ridiculously good baked Swiss style Camembert roti, oozing with onions over potatoes; and beef tartare a l’italianne, basically classic raw beef tartare tossed with Parmesan cheese, garlic and basil. Delicious.

Wine stand outs: a mineral, crisp pear-inflected 2010 Chateau de Malrond (100% Semillion) and a mushroom, butter 2010 Chateau Dubois Challon.

LA TUPINA

La Tupina is rustic Bordeaux cooking. The region claims foie gras. Here it is thick, buttery and rich. Stone walls, a French country kitchen, and massive hearth greet you upon entrance. In front of the blazing fire is a board laden with giant cuts of beef, duck, whole fowl.

The food is served a la carte or family style and is a hearty pleasure from start to finish. Scallops with cep mushrooms and duck fat fries earn additional points.

Wine stand outs:  Crisp, passion fruit notes of 2010 Chateau D’ Haurets, rare coastal wine, 2008 Chateau Laroche Joubert Cotes du Bourg.

DUBERN

With flirty, French waiter, elegant upstairs rooms, sidewalk seating and 30-35 Euro prix fixe menus, Dubern is a worthy dinner destination. While sipping a dry, light, seafood-friendly 2006 Benjamin de Chantegrive from nearby Graves, I savored a Tartare de la Mer of salmon dourade and local Cap Ferret oysters to start. Oysters were served with rye bread and a side of duck sausages. Nice.

My main course was monkfish medallions done tandoori style with a cool cucumber raita. Local French pastry cannele came came in threes, sliced in the middle and filled with ice cream. Already full, I could not finish the generous dessert.

However, I did finish the creamy, citrus glass of 2007 Chateau Reynon, produced in nearby Cadilliac.

DRINK

MAX BORDEAUX WINE CELLAR

Max Bordeaux is the ultimate tasting room, which they call a “wine gallery and cellar”. Their non-stuffy approach makes tasting and learning about Bordeaux wines and appellations fun.

The rarity? They have some of the best (and most expensive) wines of the region available by the taste. Buy tasting cards in increments of 25 Euros, and they will help you max out your sips accordingly. I visited affordable producers around the region, but at Max Bordeaux, I was able to sample some of Bordeaux’s Grand Crus Classés, upper tier wines.

It’s a must-visit when in the town of Bordeaux.

Here are some amazing wines I tasted here, including their by-the-bottle price:
2005 Aromes de Pavie, Saint Emilion Grand Cru:  earthy, dry, dusty, gentle spice (70 Euro)
2007 Chateau La Conseillante, Pomerol:  elegant, tart berry, violets (100 Euro)
2007 Chateau Palmer (read about my dinner with their winemaker last year), Margaux: acidic, spice, smooth, complex nose, earth, medium finish (200 Euro)
2007 Chateau Pichon-Longueville: Cru Classic Paulliac (170 Euro)
2007 Ducru-Beaucaillou, Saint Julien: long finish, vanilla, cassis, acidic (100 Euro)
2004 Chateau Guiraud 1er Cru, Sauternes:  organic (60 Euro)
2004 Chateau Climens 1er Cru, Barsac (85 Euro)

LA COMTESSE

Wandering the Rue Parlement St Pierre led me to La Comtesse, a sexy bar, reminiscent of old Paris in absinthe greens with dim corners for conversation and cocktails.

I perked up at a chalkboard listing Gin Fizzes and Cuba Libres. My intrepid digging led me to the one place in the city I could finally get a real cocktail… or so it first seemed. Though they had an actual cocktail menu, they served them the same way I’d faced around town: sometimes in an ice cream-type glass, always with a bad, neon maraschino cherry and a straw (?)

The Gin Fizz wasn’t anything like a real gin fizz, more a strange mix of Aperol and gin. Thankfully, the bar is full of Old World charm so I wanted to linger in conversation for hours.

CAFE BRUN

You’d not go wrong ending every night in the city of Bordeaux at Cafe Brun.

With personality to spare, the bar is packed with quirky locals, random visitors, exuding a festive, eccentric spirit. In dark woods, the worn space is well-loved, feeling a bit like Parisian-meets-Irish-pub.

There’s live music, spirits, beers, and French ciders. Here you catch the playful side of Bordeaux.

CAFE OPERA

Cafe Opera is along the left side of the stately Opera House. Dripping chandeliers and breezy, columned walkways mark the elegant space.

They serve solid food, though I would recommend the bar as a stylish stop for a a glass of wine (like sips from nearby Pessac-Leognan: a tart apple 2010 Domaine du Grand Maison, or full-bodied 2006 Chateau D’Eck) or a pour from their decent (for the city) spirits selection.

The Face of Bordeaux

Bordeaux surprises. Many I talk to think of Bordeaux wines as pricey, out of reach, inaccessible…. or as some of the best in the world.

Visiting numerous winemakers throughout the region during their recent harvest, I was surprised by the number of quality, affordable wines from each part of region.

I witnessed traditional chateaus and multi-generational family winemakers alongside forward thinking, modern wineries and career-changing winemakers entering the field later in life.

Here are a few of the faces, chateaus and wines of Bordeaux that made an impression on me. All recommended wines are available in the US, many through K&L Wine Merchants and JJ Buckley Fine Wines.

CHATEAU de PRESSAC, Saint-Emilion

Probably my favorite winery and couple of my Bordeaux travels is Jean-Francois and Dominique Quenin at Chateau de Pressac. Jean-Francois bursts with joy over the work he does at his stunning chateau, first built in the Middle Ages. A career changing top-level executive who went from major corporation (Darty, a huge European electronics company) to winemaker, he’s also St. Emilion’s Wine Council President.

Jean-Francois and his wife exude a tender love for the land. They hosted an unforgettable lunch in their chateau, sampling me through other winning wines from the region besides their own.

Recommended wine: 2008 Chateau de Pressac exhibits ripe cherries on the nose, with cassis, a silky texture and balanced acidity. $28

CHATEAU PALOUMEY, Haut-Medoc

Chateau Paloumey‘s female winemaker, Martine Cazeneuve, is inspiring. A teacher turned winemaker, she restored the land’s vines to award-winning status (formerly Cru Bourgeois Superieur), her vino served in many Michelin-starred restaurants. Her passion for wine, art and the Medoc region shines from both her and in her fresh, modern winery lined with paintings. Martine and staff also educated on the Medoc region and its brand new classification and rating system, with a tasting of numerous wines from the region, mostly priced under $25.

Recommended wine: Though I like the smooth, soft 2007 Chateau Paloumey, the 2009 Cru Bourgeois Grand Vin de Bordeaux, a Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot blend, exhibits the most promise, tasting of dusty strawberry, balanced acidity, minimal oak, and a hint of smoke. $20-25

 CHATEAU OLIVIER, Pessac-Leognon

Chateau Olivier has a storied history, dating back to the 12th century when its striking, moat-surrounded chateau was built. Winemaker Laurent Lebrun uses forward-thinking winemaking techniques, replanting vines and maximizing the land’s varied, rich soil of gravel, sand, clay, and limestone.

Recommended wine: 2009 Chateau Olivier Blanc is a blend of 75% Sauvignon Blanc, 23% Semillion, 2% Muscadelle grapes. On the nose it is refreshingly grassy and bright with lemon peel, translating to acidic citrus and hint of herbs to taste. $38.99

2005 Chateau Olivier is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 5% Cab Franc. Earthy berries hit on the nose, with a taste of wood, dark chocolate and berries in this balanced, elegant red. $45

CHATEAU D’ARCOLE, Saint-Emilion

Delightful couple Victorie and Phillipe own a winery in Bordeaux’s Entre deux Mers region, but after turning 40 decided it was a time for a new challenge. They took on a tiny, 5 hectares plot of land in ultra-expensive Saint-Emilion. Their Chateau D’Arcole land has never seen chemicals and is certified organic, a rarity in the region. Victorie and Phillipe restored the humble winery from the ground up. In soil of gravel and sand, they planted 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet grapes.

Recommended wine: I like their 2009 Chateau D’Arcole Grand Cru best, with soft, fresh berry on the nose, and a round, earthy, dried berry profile. $20

CLEMENT PICHON, Medoc

On an idyllic estate with a magnificent 1885 mansion, ponies, ponds and statues, sits Chateau Clement Pichon, with merely 25 hectares of vineyards and modern, sleek production facilities.

Owned by Clement Fayat of the huge Fayat Group, the peaceful grounds will soon launch five guest rooms and host outdoor parties by a fountain with full view of the mansion where the Fayat family resides.

Recommended wine: 2008 Clement Pichon is 70% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Cab Franc. With high acidity and a light body, it’s elegant but easy, everyday drinking. $16.99

CHATEAU LA GRAVE & CHATEAU D’ARCHE, Sauternes

In the famously “sweet” region of Sauternes, I met two winemakers, the soft spoken, hard working Virginie Tinon, a 1st generation winemaker for Vignoble Tinon wines, and the gracious Jérôme Cosson on the peaceful grounds of Chateau D’Arche, with on-site lodging and a talented chef.

Both châteaux pick grapes completely by hand. I had the privilege of harvesting “noble rot” (botrytis) grapes with the workers at Chateau D’Arche. Painstaking work it is, with multiple picks required as the grapes rot at various stages, requiring multiple “picks”.

D’Arche’s on-site chef walked us through numerous mostly savory food pairings with their wines, showcasing Sauternes wines as more than just dessert wine.

Recommended wine: Chateau D’Arche‘s 2008 Chateau Costeau is 100% Semillion (from grapes in the Cadillac region of Bordeaux) with honey, peach notes but a vivid acidity keeping cloying aspects at bay. $15

The wild beauty of Ring of Kerry on the Western coast of Ireland

AT HOME in COUNTY CORK, IRELAND

West Cork is known, according to an article in Bon Appetit back in May 2008, as “the California of Ireland,” due in part to its striking coastline and artisan foods. Though I see a far wider range of produce in Northern California than I did throughout County Cork, it’s clear Cork leads the way in Ireland.

The wealth of produce showing up in Irish restaurants surpassed what I saw in London just prior, despite the fact that London has grown by leaps and bounds in dining. In Ireland, I beheld more than a mere couple types of greens, and was offered fresh vegetables and fish, locally-made meats, cheeses and products on almost every menu. Going back a few decades, they have their own pioneers of farmers markets, Slow Food cooking, and organic farming, like Darina Allen (head of the famed Ballymaloe Cooking School), who is their equivalent to Alice Waters. Not dissimilar to home.

Whether dining on the cheeses of Ardrahan, Ardsallagh, Knockalara, Gubbeen (also love their sausages), or Clonakilty’s legendary black pudding (yes, made of thick, dried blood mixed with meats, grains and vegetables), all is made in County Cork. Each are examples of the artisan quality of the region, products one finds on menus from Dublin and beyond (see my article on Dublin last issue).

Driving on the Western side of Ireland, the touristy town of Killarney nevertheless enchanted me with its quirky Irish spirit, cobblestone streets, and prime location as a gateway to the stunning Ring of Kerry. Often celebrated as Ireland’s finest coastline, a (long – allow a few hours) drive around this Peninsula is full of visual thrills and should be done at least once in a lifetime.

CORK

The city of Cork itself can feel a tad dingy. It has evolved since its more industrial days, with a few welcome pedestrian-only, cobblestone streets, marked by food destinations, like the English Market. After a few days here, I suspect I’d have been happier staying in the countryside or along the coast. The entire county is packed with goodness and Cork is a base from which to take it all in, with plenty of celebrated restaurants and pubs for when the day’s explorations wane. The more I explored its streets, the more I came to appreciate its blue collar charms. There’s gourmet finds, like dark chocolates and hot chocolates at O’Conaill’s, creative fish ‘n chips at the Fish Hatch, or a glass of wine by a plunging waterfall in the alley entrance of Greenes Restaurant.

New Midleton Distillery (where Jameson, Redbreast, Powers, and key Irish whiskies are produced), is barely a 20 minute drive away, as are darling coastal fishing towns like Kinsale. The highlight of Cork was hearing Ricky Lynch, local music legend who evokes more than just a bit of the spirit of the Highwaymen, covering everything from Johnny Cash to the Beatles with a voice that is iconic on its own.

Lynch plays every Monday night at atmospheric Counihan’s, my most memorable pub experience in Cork. As elsewhere in Ireland, locals, particularly older gentleman, struck up a conversation with us, eager first and foremost to talk music. As one of the great loves of my life, I can talk endlessly on the subject. These Irishmen spoke with glistening eyes of Bob Dylan’s upcoming concert that week right there in Cork.

The manager at New Midleton Distillery excitedly told us the same thing earlier. It seemed every Cork man over a certain age had tickets, eager to finally see their hero live. Having seen Dylan a couple times since the mid-90’s, I hope they weren’t disappointed. I’ve no doubt his shows were once unforgettable, but in recent decades he comes across a garbled mess. Dy;an could easily be playing to no audience for as little as he acknowledges (or engages) them. But for these heartfelt, rugged men of Cork, I pray that every word out of Dylan’s mouth, distinguishable or not, was a revelation. They deserve at least that.

ENGLISH MARKET – FARMGATE CAFE

After what I’d heard about the English Market, I must admit I was ever so slightly disappointed. Yes, it’s loaded with excellent local cheeses, meats, breads, juices and chocolates that reflect the talent and heart of the county. But when one has visited many of the world’s best markets and food cities, the range and scope wasn’t quite what I had hoped for. After the initial letdown, I reset my expectations and made way for my usual excitement for the best in local foods. Upstairs, Farmgate Café could not be a more appealing respite for a relaxing breakfast, lunch or pastries.

English Market is the heartbeat of County Cork’s culinary spirit, a place from which to sample many of the county’s best. The artisan breads of Alternative Bread Co. please, though I found the highlight their dense Chester Cake, an almost forgotten Cork tradition revived. A clever use of stale bread leftovers, it’s sweet, spiced and heavy with a lemon sugar icing. I ordered fresh fruit juices daily from Fruit Boost, and snagged black and white pudding from Ashley O’Neil. One needn’t go hungry at the English Market.

JACQUES

Jacques is an established Cork classic, around for 30 years, with a distinctly Irish take on French dining, utilizing local ingredients.

A light, vibrant Castletownbere crab and apple salad (€13.90) packs much flavor. Coriander, coconut, and lime perk up locally-revered crab. Piedmont peppers are stuffed with Knockalara cheese & Gubbeen salami (€9.90), harkening to Spain by way of County Cork.

A cornmeal pancake entrée is topped with red onion, courgette (zucchini), Ardsallagh goat cheese, tomato and baby caper salsa (€21.90). Rack of free range pork is perfected in a mustard Parmesan crust, atop spring cabbage and Granny Smith apple puree (€22.90).

The real deal is a €25 prix fixe before 7pm on Friday and Saturday, and all night Monday-Thursdays. A mellow retreat off an alley, Jacques’ white walls are lined with black and white photography taken by a family member in decades past, adding a vintage spirit to the modern, peaceful dining room.

CAFE PARADISO

Cork’s vegetarian destination, Café Paradiso, has cookbooks from its famed chef. The simple, casual space belies somewhat pricey dishes, although wine and a three-course €35 prix fixe is the dinner deal. Disappointment came in lackluster service from a French waitress who acted above her customers. She got our order wrong once, but did so twice with the poor table next to us, bringing out the wrong starter and entrée. The diner said she would deal with the wrong dish so as not to watch her companion eat alone. Atrocious service soured an already rainy, gloomy night.

This was even more off-putting when dishes were less exciting than hype had intimated. Potato watercress soup (€10 a la carte) with sweet pepper and walnut sounded delightful but was bland and forgettable. The same goes for a gingered sweet potato spring roll (€13) stuffed with sesame green beans, vermicilli, pickled cucumbers. A side of coconut chili dip promised flavor but did not deliver. Another lackluster dish was a feta, pistachio, couscous cake (€24) in sweet & hot pepper jam. Reading so well on the menu made each bite even more of a letdown. The winner was a hazelnut crepe stuffed with asparagus and Ardrahan cheese (€25). Topped with balsamic beetroot and lentils, hints of mustard and tarragon butter solidify the dish’s lush spirit. If it weren’t for the above-it-all, incompetent waitress, we might have considered dessert.

KINSALE

FISHY FISHY

The opposite of Cork’s dingy greys, Kinsale is a bright seaside village, Irish in spirit, evoking fishing villages the world over. Fishy Fishy is the celebrated town restaurant serving a menu of local seafood. It is particularly interesting to note the turning point for the chef/owner was coming to San Francisco years ago.

In his book and menu, he waxes eloquent about the freshness of the seafood in San Francisco and the international influences that keep its food dynamic. He talks of bringing back techniques and ideas he gathered working in SF. One sees hints of this in dishes like a salad of sauteed monkfish topped in a sweet chili sauce.

Asian ingredients and fresh salads pop up, confirming a California stamp. It was touching to find influences from my home across the world in this tiny seaside town. This is the restaurant to visit within miles and is a comfortable, cheery respite for lunch or dinner near the Irish coast.

KILLARNEY

MURPHY’S ICE CREAM

My top treat in Ireland (I went to their shops in Dublin and Killarney, with a third in Dingle), is Murphy’s Ice Cream, lush with ingredients representing the country, from Kerry Cream to Dingle Sea Salt. I went crazy over Brown Bread ice cream: it captures the dense heft of brown bread yet with creamy texture. And they make a killer dark, rich drinking chocolate, too (chili optional).

THE ENCHANTMENT OF DUBLIN

Dublin surprises me. I expect the charm of a European city, particularly that certain appeal the Irish hold, but there’s indescribably more. Despite gray days and even incessant rain one day in Summer (plus one glorious, clear night), I fell under Dublin’s eclectic, literary spell cast by Joyce, Shaw, Yeats, and the many figures who came from or made their name in these streets.

Record shops, vintage style, peaceful St. Stephen’s Green, chic shops, literature, eclectic markets, music, and most of all, the people… this city’s cobblestone streets and squares, medieval churches and cozy pubs, welcomed me in. It may not be the prettiest city (though it is by no means an eyesore), or the biggest, but it holds world class charms with a funky edge I did not expect. All this with that incomparable Irish welcome.

The Renaissance Man and I made friends everywhere, chatting with fellow diners, in pubs, and at churches,  engaging, intelligent locals blessed with a wicked sense of humor. The people are Ireland’s biggest asset and worth experiencing in their home country at least once in your life.
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I had a little preview of Ireland when wandering cobblestone, pedestrian-only lanes in London just days before, stumbling upon a singer and a pianist practicing for their evening concert in (the small) St. Bride’s Church near (the massive) St. Paul’s Cathedral. An Irish lad, Dean Power, his concert was part of Irish Heritage, a preservation organization. He sang Irish folk songs and English ballads in a clear, heartbreaking tenor. I stopped in my tracks to linger and listen. This snapshot moment captured the sadness and longing, the straightforward beauty of Ireland.

Dublin’s charms are many, some of its churches dating all the way back to the 11th and 12th centuries. I was particularly haunted by St. Audoen’s Church, receiving a personal tour from the church’s sweet staff, who take such care with this ancient space. I spent a happy hour out of the rain in the Winding Stair, with its excellent selection of local culinary and cook books. Live music at an out-of-the-way pub (see O’Donoghue’s below) is an unforgettable  must in Ireland.

Yet another surprise was how good Dublin’s restaurants were. Having just come from London, I’d had a range of good to excellent meals. Dublin not only kept pace, but in the case of produce and fresh, experimental cooking, Dublin surpassed a number of experiences I had over nine days in London. Whereas vegetables remain limited in London, Dublin was the first I saw even a few types of lettuce or greens in my couple weeks in England and Ireland. I was not remotely ready to leave Dublin and have a list of restaurants still to visit next time.

Last issue I wrote about my visit to New Midleton Distillery where Jameson, Redbreast and many Irish Whiskeys are made. Next issue, I’ll share food favorites from the incredible foodie county of Cork.

Restaurants

RUSTIC STONE

Dublin native Dylan McGrath, worked at and helmed his own Michelin-starred restaurant prior to opening Rustic Stone in the heart of Dublin. Their philosophy reminds me of home in Northern California: in homegrown ingredients, creative experimentation, with health in mind. I left here feeling invigorated, with culinary cravings satiated.

Blessedly, the menu offers half and full portions so I was able to try a wide range. It’s a menu where vegetarian, wheat and gluten free dishes are noted, as are the chef’s health notes. Yet the food does not feel hippie or even green, rather smart and fun )one can only be so “healthy” when equally known for juicy, rare steaks cooked on the stone – hence the name). Just head down to the basement where the air is thick with smoke of steaks roasting tableside.

Their most popular “bites” item are enticing chicken wings, tossed in sticky soy, roasted sesame seeds, lime zest, garlic chips, red sprouts and coriander. Salads are worthwhile, like Luscious Lime (€9.25 / €6.25) with four types of lettuce, cucumber, pickled ginger, mango, coriander and watermelon. A lime-roasted coconut, dill seed and lime dressing perfects it.

“Soups” or broths are a revelation. I’d like to see this type of presentation more, even in my own city. Poured over vegetables, each was packed with flavor. Carrot broth infused with star anise & tarragon (€5.25) is bold over fresh peas, grated carrot, mint, chervil and olive oil. Iced cucumber soup (€5.75) is poured over avocado sorbet, cucumber and tomato. Gorgeous.

A range of steaks appeal, cooked on the stone tableside, while even a chargrilled hamburger (€16.90) is playfully good, using a range of cow cuts. Herb mayonnaise, tomato lemon chutney, crispy onions and Irish smoked cheddar seal the deal inside a brioche bun with polenta chips (or fries) as a side.

Dessert was the one misstep in my meal. Though Exotic Fruit Sushi (€7.50), a roll of sticky rice, wasabi and ginger, sounded delightful, it was cold, sticky and bland. Only caramel passion fruit dipping sauce held substantive flavor.

COPPINGER ROW

Coppinger Row may be my top Dublin restaurant. Inviting, convivial and contemporary, the restaurant felt “of the moment” yet not trendy. Service was relaxed yet attentive, and both sets of tables next to us ended up striking up heartwarming conversations with us. I’ll never forget the darling and inspiring older Irish couple we chatted with at length.

Food is the main draw. Garlic & chili prawns a la plancha (€9/12) are plump, juicy shrimps with the right amount of spice. Local crab & crayfish (€12.50)  are tossed with basil and lemon in a salad tasting of Ireland, while grilled and stuffed aubergine (eggplant; €6/9) over lentils and roasted peppers is a vegetarian winner.

My favorite dish was black pudding (blood sausage) and fig rocket salad (€11.50) with blue cheese. Hearty yet with a delicate hand, it’s a gourmet version of the beloved spiced sausage recipe originating in Clonakilty in County Cork. I adore the cinnamon and clove type spices that make blood sausages so rich and layered… of course, the blood helps do that, too.

Coppinger Row is the one place in Ireland I had actual creative, current cocktails. Guavage (€13) is a recipe of guava, Hendricks gin, and fresh sage. Seemingly simple, its flavor profile melds beautifully, robust yet seamless. They also served a Pegu Club cocktail and lovely Red Currant & Rose Daiquiri.

Dessert was another highlight at Coppinger Row. With various shots of dark, hot drinking chocolate spiked with liqueurs available, I chose the Spiced Cacao (€7). It was tiny and shot-sized, but elegantly packed a punch with cacao powder, brown sugar, spiced rum, cream, and a ginger crumble on top.

JAIPUR

Indian food is solid in Ireland, if not as exceptional as in London. A place like Jaipur seems to take a few cues from London, fusing authentic dishes with creative flair. However, Jaipur is an Irish standard, having grown to multiple locations over the years.

While I can’t say the meal was as good as some upscale Indian restaurants I visited in London (my favorites here), and as locals tell me there are worthy, more casual Indian spots in town, I found service attentive and enjoyed dishes like Duck Chettiyar (free range Barbary duck breast in southern spiced coconut tamarind marinade) or Samundari Ratan (pan-seared five spice Irish scallops with cumin coconut cauliflower).

EDEN

Dublin immediately revealed what it was made of in the food realm with my first meal at Eden. In an open and bustling space, the first bite minted pea risotto ( €9.00 for a generous small plate/€15.00 large) made me sigh. Creamy and hearty, it’s laden with grilled courgettes (zucchini), asparagus, wilted rocket (arugula), topped with Parmesan shavings.

I was equally delighted with Castletownbere crab salad (€11.50). The crab is from the County Cork coastal town of Castletownbere, is tossed in curry aioli, and carefully molded over slices of beetroot, with toasts and greens atop the mound. Fresh and invigorating,

Food & Coffee

I recommend the Temple Bar Food Market held on Saturdays. Here you can taste local cheeses, oysters, breads, meats, juices, excellent coffee like Ariosa from County Meath, and so on. It is a memorable outing and snapshot of just what hardcore foodies the Irish are.

Fallon & Byrne is a foodie’s dream grocery and should not be missed (wine fans head to the underground cellar for tastings). The striking Powerscourt Centre is an architectural beauty, particularly inside it’s open atrium. It’s worth at least a peek, and is filled with food and drink options as it is with antiques and fashion.

My top treat in Ireland (I went to their shops in Dublin and Killarney, with a third in Dingle), is Murphy’s Ice Cream, lush with ingredients representing the country, from Kerry Cream to Dingle Sea Salt. I went crazy over Brown Bread ice cream: it captures the dense heft of brown bread yet with creamy texture. And they make a killer dark, rich drinking chocolate, too.

Cocoa Atelier is the best chocolate I had in Ireland, a chic outpost of drinking chocolate and elegant truffles filled with local specialties, like pot still Irish whiskey (smile from me).

Fixx Coffee is a fun locals hangout for coffee, not as third wave and robust as Ariosa, but still good with friendly, flirty staff. Bewley’s is far more touristy being actually on chain store-ridden Grafton Street, but is still a decent option for Italian-style coffees/espresso.

Being a lifelong U2 fan, I had to visit the Tea Room in their hotel, The Clarence. It was certainly less (or not at all) edgy as I’d anticipated but it’s a peaceful respite for afternoon tea, lunch, breakfast.

I was pretty disappointed in Queen of Tarts. The atmosphere is as darling and cozy inside as it appears from the outside, but mediocre tarts and dishes from breakfast menu (even the ok coffee) leave a lot to be desired. Pastries and tarts tended towards the bland and did not taste as if they were straight out of the oven. I find this interesting as it has been praised by the New York Times and beyond.

Bars

CAFE EN SEINE
Cafe en Seine is like falling down the rabbit hole into a wonderland of a Paris that doesn’t really exist except inside your dreams. It’s fanciful, over the top, and must be seen to be believed. One doesn’t go here for quality drinks per se, but even if you just walk through or stop in for coffee or tea (it operates as cafe, bar and restaurant), you’ll be impressed with this space. There is sometimes live jazz… even better.

BAR WITH NO NAME
This place has many names: The Secret Bar, 3 Fade Street (the address), or the Snail Bar (as a little snail hangs outside the entrance), and is upstairs in the boutique Kelly Hotel.

Its got that secretive feel getting in, but once inside, it’s clear the secret’s out. The place is mobbed and it is tough getting a drink. They do actually serve cocktails (€10-12.50), from classic Negronis or South Sides, to refreshers like a Lemon Basil Smash or Lavender Margarita.

The space is one big party in an 1800′s home: massively high ceilings, multiple drawing rooms, and a patio-like area covered by a red and white striped tent. The tent lends an old-fashioned carnival air to the patio. As they’re open every day from 1pm on with free wifi, I’d go back next time for a mellow afternoon respite, skipping the vibrant nighttime crowds.

FITZWILLIAMS HOTEL BAR

The Fitzwilliams Hotel off St. Stephen’s Green looks like any other hotel bar. But a trusted industry source recommended I go and ask for Alex. Alex served us a classic daiquiri and a spicy, off-menu tequila cocktail, all while talking cocktails the world round with us. It’s always heartening to meet craftsmen and women around the globe, and Alex is one at the Fitzwilliams.

LIBRARY BAR
A comfortable rainy day respite is the Library Bar (upstairs in Central Hotel). It is mellow, except for the occasional flurry of families and children. Cozy couches and a living room feel beg for a book and a coffee.

HORSESHOE BAR

Inside the uber-elegant Shelbourne Hotel is the Horseshoe Bar, a classic, horseshoe-shaped bar with red-vinyl bench seats lining the walls. Cocktails aren’t generally excellent in Ireland, but you can get a decent one here. One goes mainly for the atmosphere. It holds a retro, cozy feel, while its history includes a mention in James Joyce’s Ulysses, and a claim to being the bar where Ireland’s great band, The Chieftains, was formed.

No. 23 at the MERRION
No. 23 at the Merrion on the stately Upper Merrion Street in a row of high end hotels is a relaxing, if a bit stuffy, respite on a gray, Dublin afternoon. Old world, somewhat dated decor, a fireplace, couches and chairs and professional service are the backdrop for a French 75 that costs well over $20 (ouch!) But it was a quiet place from which to journal and collect my thoughts.

Pubs

O’DONOGHUE’S
Possibly the most magical moment in Dublin and of my entire trip was had at O’Donoghue’s. Just a block east of St. Stephen’s Green, this tiny pub is crammed with musicians in the front window jamming for hours, alternating between playing all together or in various configurations.

With a repertoire of traditional Irish music, every player is excellent, and one well over the age of 60 bought me a Scotch and started calling me Judy, saying I had Judy Garland’s soulful eyes. He flirted shamelessly with my husband right there, saying goodbye with a big kiss on my cheek.

The unreal moment came when a girl watching quietly from the cozy crowd inside the bar, began to sing a mournful Irish ballad a capella. She had the perfect voice for a ballad of love lost to death and the loneliness that ensues. Clear, angelic, sweet, she sang plaintively and humbly. I could not help but shed tears. This, my friends, is Ireland.

PORTERHOUSE
This Irish micro-brewery is actually a rarity: making truly small batch beers served around town (and in London), their multi-floored, wood-lined pub is packed with nooks and crannies in which to disappear with a pint and a book. The Porterhouse is known for their Plain Stout (which even beat out the mighty Guinness in the “Brewing Oscars“). I also like Porterhouse Red.

DAWSON’S LOUNGE
Dawson’s is billed as “the smallest pub in Ireland” with a max capacity of 24. Enter a narrow door, down even red, twisty stairs into a low-ceilinged, wood-paneled bar that evokes the 1970′s. It feels packed with far more than 24 people, yet not overwhelmingly so. A unique spot for a pint.

BRAZENHEAD
It may be touristy due to its claim as the oldest pub in Dublin since 1198 (!), but I find the Brazenhead worth a visit due to its magic atmosphere. It’s just what you want in a pub: stone walls, history, cozy, wood-lined rooms, an open air stone patio, sing-along sessions and convivial conversation. All can be had here and the setting is unbeatable. Far from the rowdy Temple Bar pubs and crowds, it’s mellow and welcoming.

LONG HALL PUB
When it’s not too packed (it can be annoyingly filled body-to-body), I enjoy Long Hall for its Victorian lamps, mahogany bar, and chandeliers reflecting off mirrors. It’s an elegant pub with over 100 years of history.

 

 

Dining & Drinking in Colorado

My brother and sister-in-law recently moved to Denver which means I’ll be there more often. I hadn’t been back in 5 years and was pleasantly surprised at how the dining scene has unfolded compared to my last trip. I have a long list of recommends and suspect you, too, might find Denver an unexpectedly solid food town.

Denver Food

LINGER, Denver, CO
Probably my top overall restaurant in Denver is Linger from chef/owner Justin Cucci. It wins on many fronts: an eclectic, Asian-influenced menu grouped by continent, with nothing over $15 (except a lovely cheese platter). They focus on mostly organically sourced food from many local farmers and producers, using rice bran oil for frying. Then there’s the space. In a multi-floored former mortuary, one could get the creeps, but everything has been completely redone with recycled materials. It’s a stunningly hip, playful space with front row views of downtown.

Industrial and modern, it’s warmed by a funhouse of touches like pool table balls filling the floor next to a ramp, 1970’s smoking ads from India, and 1960’s-era mug shots covering bathroom doors. A dramatic staircase leads to an upstairs bar with that same city view. The space is festive, full of life, ideal for groups (though make reservations), particularly to share plates.

Dishes are prepared with finesse though approachable. Cocktails I tasted were made with quality ingredients though required more balance. I appreciated that they didn’t make them too sweet, though their Corpse Reviver # 2.5 went the other extreme with far too sour citrus.

Here are a few dish highlights by menu grouping:

ASIA - Korean BBQ pork on a Chinese spring onion pancake with poached egg and kimchi (everyone at the table was crazy about this one)
- A bright Pad Thai ($9) with farm egg, pickled veggies
- Cold Peanut Noodles ($7) using Kombu noodles, miso-pickled cucumbers, cilantro, radish, Fresno chilies, peanuts
- Vietnamese “Goi Bo” ($12): wok-seared wagyu skirt steak, pickled daikon, carrots, crispy shallots, peanuts, bean sprout, shrimp chips

AMERICAS - Biker Jim Dog ($9), Denver’s great local sausage, is topped with Boylan’s Cola-braised onions, layered with warm, oozing cream cheese, and a side of addictive sweet potato waffle fries with chipotle ketchup

SOUTH ASIA - Bhel Puri ($7) puffed rice, crunchy lentil noodles, chickpeas, red onion, cashews, tomatoes, cilantro, melon raita, tamarind-date chutney
- Masala Dosa ($9): rice & lentil crepe filled with masala potatoes, peas, black mustard seeds, dipped in tamarind-date chutney and coconut chutney

AFRICA & MIDDLE EAST – Chicken B’stilla ($12), my favorite Moroccan dish of a phyllo pastry filled with shredded chicken, almonds, apricots, golden raisins, Saigon cinnamon, harissa and a side of preserved lemon yogurt

 

BIKER JIM’S, Denver, CO
Chicago has Hot Doug’s and Denver has Biker Jim’s. All the Anthony Bourdain and press raves are rather warranted, I must say. Sports and beer overtake the casual space (newly opened – Jim’s used to be merely a food cart – those are still in operation), but sausages rule.

While not everyone is as amazing as the last, they are all so plump, juicy, and loaded with flavor… choose reindeer, rattlesnake, boar, elk, pheasant, etc… then a topping like “The International”, an irresistible mix of wasabi aioli, caramelized apples and shaved Irish cheddar. This is some seriously good eatin’.

Yes, these hefty sausages will rest heavy on your stomach (both in feeling and weight gain). I had to re-heat half a dog for later… I just couldn’t finish it. But even reheated, Biker Jim’s is one of Denver’s greatest treats.

LITTLE MAN ICE CREAM, Denver, CO
After a meal at Linger, don’t miss Little Man Ice Cream, a milk cream tower just outside the huge Linger space, with light-strewn courtyard, live music, lines down the sidewalk… a local’s favorite for homemade ice cream. Some flavors work better than others, but each are rich, evoking childhood with unfussy, homegrown heart. When it comes to flavors, I have two words for you: Salted Oreo. Oh, man.

EUCLID HALL, Denver, CO
Another striking space, Euclid Hall’s 1883 building downtown was once used for everything from Women’s Relief Corps to flea market, its pressed tin ceilings and dramatic two story, atrium-style bar/restaurant an inviting place to linger over hearty, gourmet pub fare. Yes, we’ve seen many an upscale gastropub, but I suspect there’s nothing else like this in Denver and it helps that it’s all done with exceptional quality.

The beer selection is strong, with many Colorado beers on draft, Belgians and beyond. Sean Kenyon created the cocktail menu which is an equally solid way to go. El Diablo ($8) refreshes with Pubelo Vieja tequila, Leopold’s blackberry liqueur, Regatta ginger beer and lime. Go classically boozy with a Smoking Frenchman ($11): Germain-Robin Craft Method Brandy, Domaine de Canton ginger liqueur, Talkisker Scotch and bitters.

There are many dishes ideal for soaking up craft beers. I’m delighted to see poutine on the menu, roasted duck poutine ($12) with ducky gravy, black pepper and Wisconsin cheddar curds being hearty, gut-filling food. A brat burger ($9.50) on a bretzel (aka pretzel) bun oozes with pickled cabbage, house 10,000 Island dressing and Jarlsberg cheese.

Chicken & Waffles ($12.50) are, similar to many in the Bay Area, a fresh interpretation of the classic dish using organic Petaluma chicken alongside sourdough waffles with pure maple syrup and salty walnuts. E-dog ($5) is exactly as they describe it on the menu: “all turkey kick-ass corn dog”.

A melting griddled camembert & peach preserve sandwich ($14.50) with a tasty Waldorf salad was unexpectedly my top dish. I’d crave it on a rainy day, while the salad gives crunchy green apple tart to go with the gooey, sweet sandwich. Sides ($3.50 each) of caraway spätzle and apple cabbage caraway slaw are both above-average interpretations. Finish with funnel cake fried bananas ($4) in peanut butter caramel, evoking the spirit of bananas foster.

CHOLON, Denver, CO

Cholon, a downtown Asian fusion restaurant, is a business lunch spot during the week and sleek, bamboo-lined Asian space for nighttime dining. This place particularly impressed with clean, focused tastes and preparation. It all went down well with their Full Moon Margarita ($11) using Republic Plato organic tequila, Sombra mezcal, with tamarind chili salt rim. Smoky, tart, hot yet refreshing.

I could keep popping cheesesteak wontons ($9), with quality beef and raclette fondue standing in for cheesesteak Cheez Whiz. I particularly loved lemongrass beet salad ($8): multi-colored beets are savory with blue cheese, sweet with candied walnuts, the lemongrass adding a tart kick.

Chili crab rolls ($12) are another crowd-pleaser, fresh spring roll style in rice paper wraps stuffed with crabmeat and charred corn salad with Sriracha mayo to dip.

Lunch entrees fell short of appetizers. An Asian lobster shrimp roll ($19) plays like a New England-style lobster roll tossed in mayo alongside avocado and lettuce. All in all it works, but as a pricey sandwich, it’s missing a flavor punch, as fresh and well-executed as it is.

Veggie fried rice ($10) was disappointingly bland, falling short of most hole-in-the-wall Thai versions of pineapple fried rice. There were only a couple pieces of pineapple in the whole bowl and other items from nuts to scallion were equally minimal. Only a smattering of poached egg adds some flavor.

Overall, I’d return to Cholon, which has been voted one of the year’s best new restaurant in Denver by Denver’s 5280 Magazine (so was Euclid Hall, above), due to its attention to detail and fresh focus.

TAG, Denver, CO
Under Larimer Square’s ceiling of white lights lining the street,  I sit in Tag’s small, outdoor patio. They offer a range of sake, beer and spirits, with solid, though not exceptional, cocktails ($9-11): Smoke on the Water is simple but refreshing with watermelon, Bulleit bourbon, lemon, agave; Blushing Geisha is Tyku soju, sparkling sake, lavender syrup, pineapple.

Tag chef/owner Troy Guard wins points for being willing to play, whether it all works or not. Flash-seared hiramasa ($14) is a sashimi-style platter bright with yuzu, jalapeno, white soy, tatsoi (spinach mustard green) and myoga ginger. The clincher is pop rocks dotting the dish. Admittedly, it’s not the best candy taste with fresh fish, but the textural pop is as fun as one expects (I’ve seen a handful of chefs in the past decade use this on occasion to perk up a dish). Australian kangaroo ($14) is meaty but not gamey, contrasted with watermelon, Sriracha, lime, and soft goat cheese.

Interestingly enough, Kobe beef sliders ($13) topped with gorgonzola aioli and shallot confit was the best dish, as tired and overdone as sliders are. Overall, it seemed to have the most harmony, particularly with duck fat fries, which aren’t unusual either, but dusted with a bit of sugar and spice here, are savory, sweet, and utterly satisfying. Caramelized butterfish ($13) was as lovely as it ever is, particularly with lump crab, apple, English peas, and hon shimeji (East Asian mushrooms).

Buratta cheese salad ($8) was sad with a mere couple tiny drops of buratta, and spare few cherry tomatoes and marcona almonds over greens. I usually can’t resist ordering buratta salad (as the ultimate form of mozzarella) at home… but I’ve never seen less than huge dollops of buratta. I could barely find it here.

Chef Guard makes his own ice cream flavors – some more exciting in theory than actuality. I headed straight for the most unusual: uni and salted caramel lobster ice creams ($4 per scoop). I figured they’d both be amazing together but the uni was far too salty (and I love savory desserts). Still, kudos for the concept. I’d like to see those perfected: creamy, rich and appropriately salty.

WEDNESDAY’S PIE, Denver, CO

After dinner at Tag, or anywhere else in Larimer Square, for that matter, a real treat is Wednesday’s Pie, the “front” for Green Russell, a faux speakeasy culinary bar (below). Thankfully, the shop is open all day, too, so you can pick up a pie or a slice as you wish ($20 pie, $5 slice). These are all-American pies with childhood favorite fillings.

Though I’ve had more buttery, flaky crusts elsewhere, the fillings are superb. An uber-tart cherry pie evoked summer and was my favorite. A creamy oreo and a warm apple caramel pie were happy taste experiences both. They also do chocolate peanut butter pie and vary flavors seasonally.

Denver Drink

GREEN RUSSELL, Denver, CO

It’s a speakeasy with a sign… so not really secretive in the faux speakeasy way that eventually became the rage in NYC and SF over the past decade plus. But head downstairs off Larimer Square, through darling Wednesday’s Pie shop (see above) decked out in 1950’s black and white tile with red stools, on through to a subterranean den of romance: Green Russell.

Described as a “chef-driven cocktail joint”, it is culinary cocktails like I’m used to at home. The long space snakes around a wonderfully huge bar that is runs the length of the entire space. Lined with retro red chair stools, there is no shortage of spots to sit at the bar and take in the team of friendly bartenders who clearly love what they’re doing. Behind the bar is a glass-walled greenhouse of sorts, growing a range of herbs used in their drinks.

A small food menu offers some funky, gourmet bites (like BBQ rabbit on toast). The drink menu reflects a handful of house cocktails and thought-out spirits list, though much of the fun here is chatting with your bartender about what they might make you based on your mood and preferences.

On menu, It’s Japanese ($12) followed a whiskey citrus trail with a twist. Suntory 12 year bring the Japanese piece, using Leopold’s American Orange liqueur, lemon, yuzu, and a house ginger balsamic honey. Served tall and on the rocks, it’s refreshing as it is boozy.

The highlight was a Bitter Mai Tai, a delightful recipe in the July/August issue of Imbibe magazine which I’ve been making at home on more than one occasion. Here, however, after expressing being in the mood for either a bitter (like Campari) or mezcal, willing to go either direction, my sweet bartender did both. Mezcal, Campari, orgeat (almond syrup), and orange bitters. Served over crushed ice in an icy metal cocktail shaker (sans lid), it’s garnished with mint, refreshing, smoky, creamy, bitter on the finish, awakening all the taste buds.

Green Russell marries romance and craft cocktails, making it a destination place to linger over conversation with good friends.

COLT & GRAY, Denver, CO

Next time I must dine at Colt & Gray (the type of offal, meat and fowl menu long common in big cities but ever a joy when done well). It was clear to me from the moment I sat down at the bar of this newer downtown restaurant that felt like I hadn’t left SF.

Five years ago there was nothing like this in Denver, but here I could walk in and find spirituous cocktails, both classic and new, good American whiskies, and a range of local spirits… not to mention classic films playing on a flat screen over the understated bar.

Most importantly, head barman Kevin Burke ended up being my bartender and his knowledge and skill for what he doing is, again, what I’ve long been used to at home, the kind of care that showed me what drink could be when I first converted. With plain old great service, he made me an off-menu rye cocktail with house tinctures and homemade orgeat… I was hooked.

Boulder

THE MED (aka Mediterranean Restaurant), Boulder, CO

I may not have loved entrees or Neapolitan pizza at The Med, a favorite hangout in Boulder, but all was solid. What really works is their outdoor patio courtyard with wall fountain, reminiscent of many restaurants I’ve dined at in Mexico. Happy hour tapas run 3-6:30pm every day, are merely $2-4 each, and are quite good, particularly with a tall glass of their passion fruit-laden sangria ($4). I recommend bacon-wrapped dates with garlic sauce ($3.50); ajo ($2.75), a roasted garlic bulb with balsamic jam and blue cheese; gambas ($4.25), Gulf shrimp in lime sherry vinaigrette; and tender albondiags ($3), pork meatballs in a sweet tomato sauce.

THE CUP, Boulder, CO
Strong, bracing, bold, The Cup makes a fine cappuccino that with micro-foam that goes down like silk.

Roasting their own beans and sourcing them from all over the world, the student vibe of the comfortable space does not signify typical college hangout coffee shop quality. This is the right stuff and the best coffee I had in Boulder.

Louisville

Louisville is a charming, tiny town a short drive from Denver, walkable and slow-paced. For next time, Lucky Pie intrigues with beers and pizza using locally grown-flour, and Cactus Wheel has a 60+ tequila selection, was playing 1970′s country music as I walked up, and sports a big patio out front (Mexican food there, however, looks like an uninformed white person’s idea of what Mexican food is).

SWEET COW, Street, Louisville, CO

Ice cream at Sweet Cow, a blue and white local shop with vintage lawn chairs out front and little cows for the kids to play with. Though it looks sugary and some flavors are, there are little dozens of flavors. Just start reading the long list of flavors on the back fridges. I enjoyed their ice cream sandwiches with crusty cookies evoking childhood,

PAUL’S COFFEE & TEA, Louisville, CO
Another coffee standout on my trip was Paul’s Coffee and Tea. At the Louisville Farmer’s Market on Saturday morning, it was the highlight of the market, sourced globally through a California contact and roasted locally.

At NEW MIDLETON DISTILLERY
County Cork, Ireland

Ireland is a green land of rolling hills, sheep and craggy coastline, to be sure. The people enchanted even more… a generous, welcoming, hilarious lot. One of my favorite people in recent Ireland travels was Liam O’Leary, distillery operations manager at New Midleton Distillery in County Cork, near the southern coast of Ireland.

The name New Midleton may not mean  a lot to some, but if you follow Irish whiskey, you know there are merely three distilleries producing publicly-sold spirits in all of Ireland and this one’s the Mother. It’s most famous as home to Jameson (founded in 1780 by John Jameson, originally produced in Dublin at the Old Jameson Distillery, which I also visited). New Midleton also produces numerous Irish whiskies including Midleton, Powers Gold Label, Tullamore Dew, Paddy, and smaller pot still brands like my longtime favorite Irish whiskey Redbreast and new love, Green Spot (oh, that it would become available in the States).

Liam hosted the Renaissance Man and I on a private tour of the grounds. Spending pleasurable hours  talking whiskey and of his 40 year history at Jameson (long before it was the huge company it is now),  we delved into a subject dear to my heart, and, it seems, to every local I spoke to: music. We watched mass distilling in action, and finished with a hearty Irish lunch in the distillery restaurant.

The New Midleton facility is to date the most colossal, high production I’ve yet seen: towering stills, control panels, endless storage buildings stacked with barrels, and the world’s largest pot still (able to hold up to 125,000 liters, or roughly 33,000 gallons), which is no longer in use but is viewable in the Old Midleton museum. Numerous copper pot stills operate simultaneously, holding a massive 75,000 liters each. The facility whirs and buzzes continuously, recalling Ireland’s past, creating its future.

Tasting Jameson

Exploring New Midleton, it’s only fitting we talk Jameson. Possibly the highlight of my trip to Ireland (and there were many), was tasting Jameson 20 year whiskey straight from bourbon barrels (of which the majority of Jameson is aged in), and alongside it, 10 year whiskey in sherry barrels, both of which are blended into higher-end final product.

Both were superb, the purest forms of Irish whiskey I’ve tasted, particularly the golden, 20 year in bourbon barrels. Its layers kept unfolding, warm, honeyed and bright, spicy, fresh with grain and fruit. Already perfection, this stuff should be bottled at cask strength on its own. The sherry cask whiskey adds round, dark notes, giving it fullness and sensual depth.

As I taste through the Jameson line at home, notes from those unforgettable barrels come back to me. I pick up various strains from the bourbon and sherry oak, all with that ever-present smoothness Irish whiskey is known for as it is generally triple-distilled. As the biggest selling Irish whiskey in the world, Jameson has done much to advance the category, while I crave pot still beauties like Redbreast and Green Spot. For further reading, Paul Clarke wrote an article in this month’s issue of Imbibe that illumines Irish whiskey’s growth, history and current status in cocktail culture.

Here are my tasting notes from sipping (multiple times) through the Jameson line:

Jameson Rarest Reserve, $279 – Rarest Reserve is the grandaddy of the line. Winning numerous awards (including this year’s Double Gold at the SF World Spirits Competition), it’s an expensive but truly special imbibement. After one explores the full-bodied aromas of ripe plum and spice, the taste impresses with toasted wood, dusty peach, dark chocolate, a hint of slate, leather and earth. Here I find encompassed the approachable yet elevated possibilities inherent in Irish whiskey.

Jameson 18yr Limited Reserve, $86.99 – The 18yr is another big award-winner, hitting my taste buds with an intense amount of peach. For me it evokes a golden summer freshness. Though I prefer it neat, it’s also lovely on the rocks. A couple drops of water allow other tastes to unfold, including orange marmalade, gentle spice, nuttiness, and biscuit. It’s soft yet bright, and could convert the non-whiskey drinker.

Jameson Gold Reserve, $60.99 – Gold Reserve is a richer whiskey than the 12yr or Jameson Irish Whiskey. I get creamy apple on the nose, a gentle honey texture and a peppery finish.

Jameson 12yr Special Reserve, $39.99 – The 12yr won Gold this year at the SF World Spirits Competition), sweet and spicy with sherry, wood notes. Oddly enough, I find its astringency is softened and rounded out with food.

Jameson Irish Whiskey, $24.99 – The original Jameson has never been my Irish whiskey go-to. I find it a bit hot and thin, despite sweet fruit, vanilla and nuts. But this is the great global seller in Irish whiskey, often the first introduction many have to the category.

 

Tobago single estate chocolate, beautiful with Angostura 1919 Rum at Taste of London

EATING AROUND LONDON

It was 10 years ago that I spent a month in England, a country I felt immediately at home in. Returning to the incomparable London last month certainly revealed changes – most for the better, including the ignited culinary and cocktail scene (I covered cocktails last issue). Maybe it wasn’t as devastatingly amazing as some claimed (and produce still falls far behind what I’m used to), but over two weeks, I ate well and broadly, pleased to see London has become a world-class dining city, along with its other endless assets.

Foodies, do not miss Borough Market, the ultimate London food destination. It may not be a produce mecca like our own Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, but it shows off the best of local foods like cheese, sausages, meats, warm savory pies and pasties, fish, curries, fresh juices (from Natural Smoothie Co.), and, yes, produce.

Sip a Pimm’s while sampling jamon from Tapas Brindisa (loved chorizo rocket sandwiches they were grilling outside). More highlights included African sauces (like coconut chili) from Bim’s Kitchen, Exquisite Deli’s Tyrolean sausages and salami, and a Rosé Spritzer (rosé wine, lemonade, Pimm’s) from Borough Wines. See more favorites below under Coffee, Chocolate, Spirits & Wine Shops.

Another event I was privileged to attend was Taste of London in idyllic Regent’s Park, similar to food and drink tasting galas in the States. Walking along purple carpets across muddy grass (it has just rained, thankfully clearing in time for the event), we tasted under tents and in makeshift cafes… an excellent way to sample from some of London’s hottest chefs and artisan food and drink purveyors. Highlights were many:

- Caramel-rich Angostura 1919 Rum, paired beautifully with just-launched Tobago Estate, a dark, lush, single-estate chocolate from the West Indies

- Raved-about restaurant Yauatcha served some of their truly excellent dim sum, including Sweet Potato Mei-Si, Venison Puffs and a Crispy Duck Roll
- Brand new Polka Gelato: the owner and her ice creams/sorbets are delightful, particularly a Pink Grapefruit/Campari/Lime Pop
- Creole Soda Bread: I wish I could find a website for these guys, though I did run across a local blogger who felt the same as I did about these addictive breads; each one was better than the last, from Carrot Cherry to Ginger Fig

- Union Hand-Roasted Coffee is fair trade – they were doing single drip cups just like I’m used to at home; they roast small-batches, delivered to individual homes, restaurants and cafes
- Hendrick’s Gin hosted a gin garden party, complete with a retro-clad hostess (dressed similar to much of my own wardrobe), and refreshing Hendrick’s cocktails
- None other than Heston Blumenthal had an ice cream cart with two flavors: Chocolate & Rosemary, and my tops, Salted Caramel Popcorn

Gelupo gelato

- Ice cream showed strong at Taste… I was crazy about Gelupo, creamy, sexy gelato (with a shop in Soho); just try not to fall in love with their Ricotta & Sour Cherry Ripple; they also served a Granita Cocktail: fresh cucumber and their rose granita doused with Hendrick’s Gin – perfecto!

**One note when dining in London: be aware that a majority of mid-to-upscale restaurants offer a dizzying number of menus, different ones for tasting, a la carte, weekends, weekdays, lunch, dinner and so on. Wanting freedom of choice, I found a la carte usually served me best and didn’t lock me into costly tasting menus.

Restaurants

Pinchito, Shoreditch – Pinchito is your quintessential tapas bar. It’s casual, convivial, and most importantly, delicious. Rounds of padrón peppers, warm cod fritters, patatas bravas, and pork belly with mango flow. Things step up a notch when a garlicky, comforting bowl of Gulas al Ajillo (baby eels) arrive, glistening in oil, slippery like fine noodles. I sip a classic Daiquiri and dive in.

Hawksmoor, two locations – Hawksmoor claims the best steaks in London… and they may be right. One of the juicier, medium-rare, dry-aged steaks I’ve ever had, their Porterhouse (£6.50/100g) is a lesson in steak perfection with just the right amount of charcoal crust. With a hefty bone one is tempted to grab onto and gnaw off, a side of plump, colorful tomatoes in olive oil adds a feminine yin to the steak’s manly yang.

Starters of a half Dorset Crab (£15) with hazelnut butter or Potted Smoked Mackerel (£6) on rustic bread please. Do not miss their impeccable cocktails, which I raved about last issue. One of their visually striking and refreshing-tasting juleps makes an ideal companion to all that North Yorkshire cow.

The Cinnamon Club, Westminster – In the Old Westminster Library, Cinnamon Club’s clean-lined, high-ceilinged library is a memorable space for upscale Indian dining. Scents of curry waft down the street as you pass Westminster Cathedral on your way inside this elegant respite.

Start off with Cinnamon Bellinis. They are better than they sound, evoking the space’s signature spice with effervescence. Executive chef Vivek Singh’s creativity with Indian flavors is impressive: you will likely have dishes here in ways you’ve never experienced them before.

Tasting menus are a pricey £75 a head. There was a Maharaja’s Express (a luxury train the chef recently traveled with) menu at £50, but I was happiest going a la carte. Thankfully, I got to try one dish each from both tasting menus: Cwalior, a selection of street-food chaat/snacks (like mini-bhel puri), and an innovative Chickpea Cake, moist, with a hint of Indian spices and mint sauce. Out of the ten dishes I tried, a key stand-out was vegetarian: Plantain ‘Kofta’ (£15) came with beetroot chutney in a yoghurt coconut sauce. Layered and exciting, it was bright, healthy and full of flavor.

Benares, Mayfair – Benares may not have been as seamless (or in as beautiful a setting) as Cinnamon Club, but it’s another upscale Indian restaurant with attentive service and inventive Indian food. I could eat Chicken Tikka Pie in a flaky pastry shell with wild berry sauce over and over again. I wasn’t going to complain about Tandoori Pigeon Breast either, especially with beet puree and vanilla beetroot accents. Their satisfying Tandoori Ratan means you can try Fennel Lamb Chop, Mustard Chicken Tikka and King Prawn on one platter. Also a pricey restaurant, a la carte is the best way to go.

Hix, Soho – Over punchbowls with Nick Strangeway, we were treated to an hours-long, private dinner in Hix‘ atmospheric, candlelit basement. Our Chop & Trout Feast just kept coming. Rounds of asparagus salad topped with with soft-boiled Burford brown eggs, British Isles rock oysters, and potted smoked salmon flowed. The baked Bone Marrow shimmered with garlic and herbs, buttery slathered on toasts. It may be the exemplary bone marrow dish among the many I’ve had. Lemon Ginger Nut Cheesecake arrived shaped like a creamy egg, a fine finish to a true feast.

St. John’s, Farringdon – Fergus Henderson and his restaurant St. John’s revolutionized London (and the world’s) dining scene since it opened in 1994. Nose-to-tail, whole animal, offal… whatever you call it… had its renaissance at the hands of Henderson via this humble restaurant in an open, rustic room, tables lined with butcher paper.

Other than having a downright snotty French waiter, which did not suit the environment (and is really unforgivable any time), we enjoyed famed Roasted Bone Marrow & Parsley Salad (£7.10 – although I preferred Hix‘ version, above), Venison Saddle alongside green beans and pickled walnut (£9.70), Ox Tongue with fennel & green sauce (£16.70), and a comforting slice of Welsh Rarebit (£5.20). Though pretty, a Chocolate & Cherry Pot (pot de creme) was an ok finish. Stick to the animal parts as that is what St. John’s is all about.

Saf, Shoreditch – I know it may seem strange for a carnivore in London to “waste” a meal on all vegetables, particularly when underwhelmed with produce throughout my weeks here. But it may be because of this very reason I wanted to know there was a place doing produce right and inventively. I’d heard from a couple sources that Saf was hands-down the best vegetarian in London. After I visit, I can see why.

Eating at the original, sit-down location (not their more casual restaurant in Whole Foods), portions may appear small, but entrees were larger and by meal’s end, I was full. Nothing is over £15.50), which is a steal in London for a hip restaurant such as this.

Of the eight dishes I tried, stand-outs included raw ‘Caviar’ Blinis (£7.50), or rather sweet potato blinis topped with beetroot & herbs balled into tiny ‘caviar’, and a Taco Trio (£14.45) of three mini-blue corn shells filled with pineapple relish, guac or tomato. They were having fun with cocktails like Sgt. Pepper (£8.85): Cazadores Tequila, pink peppercorns, red grapes, peach liqueur, lemon juice. I asked them to tone down the peach liqueur to make it less sweet – they obliged and as I hoped, pink peppercorn and tequila shone through.

Hakkasan, Mayfair - Hakkasan is big in India… and London. The bar serves cocktails on the chichi, fruity side, though there’s a broad spirits selection. With subterranean basement and deafening roar, it’s a bit scene-y for me, but thankfully the upscale Chinese food satisfies. Their dim sum platter is particularly artful, loaded with traditional options like scallop shumai and har gow, but brightened with roe and colorful dumpling wrappings. Meat dishes and stir fries are all tasty, though not exactly traditional Chinese. Crispy Duck Salad was the best dish, with its sweet/salty shreds of duck accented by pomelo, pine nut and shallot.

El Camino (which has become El Camion, though sign still says Camino), Notting Hill – For a hint of where NOT to go, I was struck by just how bad “Mexican” food was at otherwise adorably hip El Camion (sans a single Mexican on staff during my visit). It tasted not much better than the “Mexican” I had in London 10 years ago, though a Mexican food craze has swept the city in recent years. There must be better than this around town (?), but I still find without a significant Mexican population, it seems hard to do Mexican right. Most of the US and the world generally don’t get it right, it only makes sense that London doesn’t either (despite claims I’ve heard to the contrary). That is, unless you consider gummy gunge to be guacamole (with stale grocery store chips), or thick flour tortillas and a worse-than-Pace-Picante red paste (I mean “salsa”) to be the real deal. (PS – in typical London fashion, you’ll also pay nearly $15 US dollars for two little tacos).

Breakfast

Ottolenghi, Islington - Brunch at the original location of ever-popular Mediterranean bakery Ottolenghi was as delightful as I’d heard (Yotam Ottolenghi himself is in SF this week and has been blogging rave reviews about the experience). In a clean, white space, creative savory and sweet baked goods make a dramatic mountain piled atop the counter. Just try to decide which cake, tart, muffin or other glorious baked goods you’ll choose. Their breakfast menu is likewise fresh and enticing, especially Sweet Corn & Spring Onion Pancakes (£8.50) with roasted tomato (a British staple), bacon, avocado cucumber salsa, and sour cream.

Modern Pantry, Clerkenwell - Downstairs from our fabulous Zetter Townhouse, off a cobblestone cul de sac, is this charmer of a restaurant. I recommend Modern Pantry’s airy, light-filled space for breakfast. Service was about the most caring I had anywhere in London. When I didn’t finish one plate (due to ordering too many and thus full), they were concerned we didn’t like it. Without a guilt trip, they wanted to replace it and make it right. I insisted all was lovely. And it was. Try Spiced Red Wine-poached Tamarillo (£5.80): tart and robustly red, warm fruit, in a creamy Greek yoghurt drizzled with Manuka honey.

Kipferl, Islington – Just opened in April, Kipferl, an Austrian café off darling Camden Passage (a narrow, cobblestone-lined street evoking Old World Europe), is nearly museum-like in its quiet. It’s a bit unnerving if you wish to talk (sit in the back for that). The majority of solo diners are in the front room, bright under big, picture windows. I heartily recommend it as a respite to read, write, work or think over a Viennese coffee. Pastries are a bit hit-and-miss (I had a dry poppyseed cake), but made with care, while a long Austrian sausage oozes with cheese inside, draped over a mound of near perfect sauerkraut.

Caravan, Clerkenwell – At the Aussie/Kiwi-influenced Caravan, coffee is impeccable while lemon curd/cream cheese/coconut bread is topped with rhubarb and served for breakfast. Get a table outside along the cobblestone, pedestrian-only Exmouth Market street, and it feels truly like Europe.

The Wolsley, St.James/Mayfair - Touristy or not, the gorgeous Wolsley Hotel (around the corner from my St. James hotel, Duke’s) hosts a breakfast evoking Old World elegance. Coffee is strong, served in delicate white cups, paired well with a flaky pain au chocolat.

The real winner is a traditional British omelette, the Arnold Bennett (£10.75), originally named after Arnold Bennett at the Savoy Hotel as he loved it there so much, he insisted it be made for him wherever he traveled. It’s a creamy, egg-y dream, salty with smoked haddock, in a creme fraiche and Parmesan cheese sauce. The lovely Sophie Dahl shows you how to cook one  of these sinfully rich breakfasts here.

Blanche, Hammersmith – Out in the friendly, peaceful neighborhood of Hammersmith, I loved Blanche Eatery, a closet-sized shop making an excellent cappuccino, delectable baked goods (like lime poppyseed cake) and various to-go salads (quinoa, Mediterranean-style, etc…)

Coffee

Monmouth Coffee, Borough Market near London Bridge – You can’t miss Monmouth Coffee at the edge of the ultimate British market, Borough Market (with two other locations). It’s Blue Bottle-esque for all you Bay Area folk, i.e. lines stretch out the door all day long. And it’s of that caliber. Probably the best cup I had in London.

Espresso Room, Bloomsbury – On a rainy day (one of many), as I wandered the streets of Bloomsbury and explored Charles Dickens house, Espresso Room was like a beacon in the chilly June air. I was on the hunt for it, knowing it immediately by the carved-wood coffee cup hanging from a storefront on a mostly residential street. I could have been in the Mission in SF watching young hipsters grind beans in a tiny, wood-walled shop. It warmed up the grey day immediately (another nearby respite is The Lamb, a 1700′s pub all-the-more cozy with a good book – purportedly Dickens hung out there).

Third wave, robust coffee – and just a plain good cup – has hit London full force. There’s a long list of spots to sip a proper cup. Here are just a few more to recommend: Taylor Street Baristas, Flat White, Milk Bar, Dose, Store St. Espresso and Kaffeine.

Chocolate

Paul A. Young, Islington – On par with the best chocolates I’ve had anywhere in the world, Paul A. Young’s truffles (£2 each) are so fresh and luxurious, not to mention unusual, I’m still dreaming about them.

With a shop on charming Camden Passage (near Kipferl, above), Young was also at the Taste of London. He rose to fame as pastry chef for the likes of Marco Pierre White. Yes, he can do a Sea Salted Caramel and Dark Chocolate Champagne truffle like no other. But try Marmite for earthy, funky fun, or Passion Fruit & Vanilla, or Peppermint Leaf. Even among the best chocolatiers, I love some truffles and not others. But eight truffles later, I was loving every one of Young‘s.

The Rabot Estate, Borough Market - The chocolate stop at Borough Market, Rabot Estate is a rustic, hip shop with staff roaming the store pouring cups of free dark hot chocolate, salvation on chilly, rainy days.

A dark chocolate chili bar particularly won me over with lush base of their Santa Lucia-grown chocolate. You can also order bites from their menu like banana, salted caramel & cacao nibs on toasted brioche or duck confit salad with chocolate dressing and orange marmalade. You can see why I love this place.

Artisan du Chocolat, Borough Market – Artisan du Chocolat is at numerous London shops and high-profile department stores such as Selfridges. I bought a box at Borough Market. Unlike with Paul A. Young, I was disappointed in a number of their truffles, though they are at least half the price of Young’s chocolates. Artisan du Chocolat makes intriguing flavors like banana & thyme, tobacco, or lumi (sun-dried lime). I just wish all tasted as amazing as they sounded.

Spirits & Wine Shops

Whisky Exchange, Borough Market - About the best whiskey shop in the world? Whisky Exchange just off Borough Market could easily contend for that tile. A leading website for whisky, they sure know their Scotch, Irish and Japanese whiskies. But I was impressed with their expertise on American whiskies. Having met many of the world’s greatest distillers, Hector swapped stories and favorite bottles for a good hour with us. He’s a veritable whisk(e)y encyclopedia. We left with a couple special whiskies they bottle in-house. Spirits aficionados, don’t miss this place on your next visit to London.

Utobeer, Borough Market – A truly impressive little section inside Borough Market, Utobeer wows with a well-curated beer selection, including a number of the US’s best craft beers from Goose Island in Chicago to OC’s The Bruery. As some London locals tell me, many Brits don’t believe America has any clue what a good beer is, one of many reasons Utobeer‘s selection is a rarity and a boon for the city. I was particularly impressed with London-brewed craft beer from The Kernel, wishing we had that one here.

Berry Bros. & Rudd, St.James/Mayfair - Around the corner from my St. James hotel, Duke’s, Berry Bros. & Rudd may exhibit a bit of a rarified air, but is a classic spirits and wine shop. Their spirits selection is far smaller than at Whisky Exchange, but extremely well-curated. First and foremost, it’s a wine-lovers destination. Open since 1698, the space evokes Old World London with creaky wood floors, old chandeliers and coffee scales from its original shop. Along with neighboring Fox of St. James, a cigar shop frequented by Winston Churchill who’s chair sits in the basement smoking lounge, and the unreal artistry of John Lobb, a very high end shoe shop and cobbler, St. James Street is lined with historical, evocative shops worth spending time in.