May
01
2012

May 1, 2012

“One day you finally knew
what you had to do, and began
though the voices around
kept shouting
their bad advice.”

Mary Oliver, “The Journey”

Seen in a window wandering Edinburgh streets (see "Wandering Traveler")

Welcome May’s warm days and invigorating breezes. I’m appreciating favorites, like rhubarb and kumquats, starting to show up at farmers markets and on menus, and also chatting with neighbors on the front stoop while sipping Americanos.

Bagpipes on Edinburgh's Royal Mile

Top Tastes - Unusual Communal Dining: Four new spots, from gourmet bowling alley to Neapolitan pizza hang-out for SF’s deaf community, offer uniquely engaging environments for interaction with fellow diners.

ImbiberSpring Cocktail Trends: Bottled cocktails and Pimm’s Cups are on the rise, while three wine cocktails refresh.

Wandering TravelerEdinburgh: Exploring restaurants, bars and coffee in romantic Edinburgh.

Around the BayCheap Eats in Palo Alto & Berkeley: Eating at new Asian and Peruvian eateries in the East and South Bay.

On the TownPebble Beach: Photos of celebrity chefs  and best bites during the 2012 Pebble Beach Food & Wine Classic.

I’d love your feedback on any spots visited from my site. As your personal concierge who tells it to you like a good friend would, I also create personalized itineraries: trips, meals, explorations (under “Services“).

Let me guide you to the perfect spot,

Virginia

Follow me on Twitter: http://twitter.com/ThePerfectSpot

Recent entries in my Bay Guardian column:
The Hunt for Authentic Southern BBQ in the Bay Area
** 3 Spring Cocktail Trends
New Gourmet Cheap Eats in SF
** 2012 Pebble Beach Food & Wine Classic

An Elegant Line of Tequilas
** Exploring 3 Wineries in Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario

**Unless otherwise noted, all photos by Virginia Miller**

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Written by in: Intro Letter |
May
01
2012

Top Tastes

Convivial gathering around Claudine's cozy bar

(UNIQUELY) COMMUNAL DINING

Bowling pin light fixtures oversee Mission Bowling Club's open space

Incredible burgers in a bowling alley, SF’s deaf community gathering over Neopolitan pizzas, brothers serving food from their hometown of Nice in a tiny restaurant, dining around a U-shaped counter off a FiDi alley… each of these restaurants opened within the last 6 months providing a unique communal experience (and most importantly, fine food to go with) that makes one feel like actually engaging with, rather than ignoring, fellow diners.

MISSION BOWLING CLUB, Mission (3176 17th St. between Shotwell & Van Ness, 415-863-2695)

Mission Bowling Club (MBC) is one badass bowling alley. Hipster all the way, there’s no funky smell or dated dinginess in this brand new space. Open and industrial, there’s a front patio, separate dining room downstairs and one upstairs overseeing six lanes and a wood-lined bar area. Cheer on bowlers from comfy couches while sipping a cocktail (solid, though not noteworthy drinks) and filling up on French onion casserole. Essentially, it’s got all you could dream of in a bowling alley in what is already a “seen and be seen” hang-out.

Entering MBC

As soon as we heard chef Anthony Myint, Mission Chinese Food and Mission St. Food wunderkind, would oversee the menu, it was easy to guess MBC was going to boast exceptional food. The beloved Mission Burger ($15; $10 during happy hour) is back. I missed the rich, granulated patty, lathered in caper aioli. An avowed carnivore, I was shocked to find the vegan burger ($10) is almost as exciting. A fried chickpea, kale, shitake fritter is brightened up with sambal (Indian chili sauce), guacamole, and fennel slaw. A juicy sausage corn dog ($7) arrives upright in molecular fashion, standing watch over a dollop of habanero crema. Only a hard, small “everything pretzel” ($5) disappointed. Break up the fat with a taco “salad” ($9), a colorful mix of lettuce wraps, fried tortilla strips, salsa verde and queso fresco. Not bad for a bowling alley.

Suspended corn dog

MBC's front patio

 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

CASTAGNA, Marina (2015 Chestnut St. at Fillmore, 415-440-4290)

Brothers Jerome and Stephane Meloni from Nice infuse their Italian heritage and French upbringing in Italian and niçoise dishes.

Classic Niçoise caramelized onion tart

I enjoyed Stephane’s cooking at their former Restaurant Cassis, a far roomier Pac Heights space, but their tiny, new Castagna lends itself to connection. Stephane cooks within full view, Jerome interacts with diners, and I found myself in conversation with tables next to me.  On a good night, it exudes that neighborhood conviviality found in similar-sized restaurants around Europe. Decor isn’t particularly memorable, though red walls always bring a space to life, here accented by the ubiquitous vintage Taittinger champagne ad.

Castagna's warm, red walls

Sticking closer to tradition is the best way to navigate Castagna’s menu. Stephane’s classic Niçoise caramelized onion tart ($7.50) is the best dish, silky with caramelized onions in a flaky crust, with (the good stuff) white anchovies on the side, which they explained neighborhood diners weren’t quite ready for – I say place them on top and let diners sort it out. I found the steak in my steak frites ($18) too well done (medium rare, please) despite a lush green peppercorn sauce. I’d opt instead for linguine (not house made as they have so little kitchen space, but made fresh for them using their pasta recipe), in sauces from pistou (pine nut, basil, garlic) to bolognaise. Also of note: French-style campagnarde pizza ($15), in the spirit of flammkuchen (Alsatian flatbread), covered in potato sauce, bacon, crème fraîche and raclette cheese.

MOZZERIA, Mission (3228 16th St. between Guerrero & Spencer)

Sheer comfort: the Mozzeria bar

Communal award could easily go to the Mission’s Mozzeria. Maybe we didn’t need the umpteenth Neapolitan pizza place, but there’s none quite like this, run by a deaf couple and staff. San Francisco’s deaf community gathers en masse at a hang-out where speaking with your eyes and hands is as important as speaking verbally. Of course, verbal processors are welcome, too.

Mozzeria's sparkling wood-burning oven

The dining bar is my preferred perch, particularly to engage with chef Russell Stein (who co-owns the place with his wife Melody). He’s hilarious and reads lips like a master, joking with diners as he spreads ingredients over wheels of dough before popping them into a wood-burning oven.  His heartwarming Neopolitan pizzas ($12-18) are topped with the likes of caramelized onion, pancetta, mozzerella or goat cheese and eggplant. I must admit, my favorite item, the Mozzeria bar ($8), isn’t the most gourmet, but hearkens back to my Jersey youth. Let’s just call it what it is: a fried mozzerella cheese log doused in pomodoro sauce and basil. Sheer comfort.

CLAUDINE, Financial District (8 Claude Lane at Bush, 415-362-1988)

Meatball, kale and fregola (a Sardinian pasta similar to Israeli couscous) soup

Claudine’s chic cafe charms. Big picture windows and corner space on an alley up a half flight of stairs appeal, while a u-shaped front bar creates a convivial dining experience as the bar is so small so you can’t help but exchange good will with neighboring patrons. You can dine at a table, but the bar is far more fun, and works for a quick, casual meal all day.

Dining at Claudine's alley tables

Much has been made of their meatball, kale and fregola soup ($7/10), and rightly so. It is an unexpected culinary delight in an olive oil-laced brodo (broth) laden with Parmesan, onions, carrots. I can be bored by broth soups at times, but this one holds my interest with plump veal-pork-beef meatballs and pleasantly soggy kale. Roasted mussels ($12/17) arrive aromatic with fennel sausage in lemon and white wine, while even avocado toast ($12) delights topped with dill gravlax, Spanish black radish, and lemon. Leave room at the end for Claudine favorite, s’mores ($7) baked in a glass bowl with layers of marshmallow and chocolate on graham cracker crust. My meals at dinner have been more satisfying than at lunch but it seems to improve with each visit.

Claudine's colorful dining room wall

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May
01
2012

Imbiber

SPRING COCKTAIL TRENDS

Jasper's bar manager Kevin Diedrich pours bottled Pimm's Cups

Spring imparts new life and lush green after Winter rains. It also ushers in a glut of Spring cocktail menus emphasizing the best produce of the season and new trends.

Bottled Cocktail Line-up

Typewriters, newspapers & bottled cocktails at Local Edition

Bottled cocktails are sprouting up everywhere, including just-opened (on April 12), 1950′s era speakeasy, Local Edition, from the Bourbon & Branch crew. There is no carbonation here, rather bottlings utilizing house syrups to drive flavor profiles. Instead of individual-sized bottles, bar manager Ian Scalzo is opting for 750-ml bottles they cork and seal in-house. Along with tableside decanter service, this spacious, sexy underground bar is a place you can order a bottle of rum infused with house made yerba maté syrup for the table (some come with a shot of sparkling wine/champagne or soda) as you enjoy live music from the Local Edition stage.

Teitelbaum's bottled Mojito

At Harry Denton’s Starlight Room, bar manager Joel Teitelbaum created a carbonated line-up ($12 per bottle), with even more in the works. Clear spirits dominate the bottled cocktail menu (just launched April 10), but don’t be surprised if brown liqueur shows up, too. He’s already working on a Bulleit Rye cocktail for bottling. Try a Carbonated Negroni lively with Campari, Plymouth gin, and sweet vermouth, or a Phizzed Phosphate Daiquiri of Bacardi white rum perked up with cane sugar, phosphate, citric acid, and distilled lime juice. You heard right – distilled juice – a tough prospect as citrus easily turns bitter and pungent during distillation. With lots of experimentation (and failed batches), he’s cornered a subtle aroma of lime that blends seamlessly into his bottled Daiquiri, Mojito and Gin & Tonic.

Starlight Room's bottled G&T

Teitelbaum is tweaking the Banks 5 Rum Mojito for a little more mint, while Brokers Gin-based Gin & Tonic is my favorite of the bunch. The homemade tonic is a natural light brown from cinchona bark (filtered out of most tonics, which can tamper with flavor). The G&T gives off a floral aroma laden with cardamom, while the distilled lime juice tastes here of kaffir lime. Cutting-edge bars like The Aviary in Chicago are experimenting with high concept, fine dining-level bottled cocktails, while Teitelbaum is going for approachable, crowd-pleasing classics… with a twist.

Pimm’s Cup Revival

Pimm’s Cups are on the rise.  There are numerous versions of the classic cocktail made with the beloved English product line, Pimm’s (mainstay Pimm’s No. 1 is a gin-based, rosy red liqueur, with notes of citrus and spice).

Jasper's bottled Pimm's Cup

Alongside Pimm’s, you’ll commonly find lemon and cucumber in a Pimm’s Cup, maybe even gin, ginger ale, 7-Up, soda water, or mint. No matter the version, it’s the perfect warm day compliment, a boozy cucumber lemonade for grown-ups. Typically generously garnished, the drink is visually pleasing as it is to taste.

In past years, I’ve gotten my Pimm’s Cup fix at 15 Romolo. They still make a lovely version with your choice of liquor (“anything but Scotch”, reads the menu), plus actual Pimm’s, cucumber, mint, lemon, house ginger syrup, bitters and soda water. Get the “from scratch” treatment at Heaven’s Dog next month (under new bar manager Trevor Easter) when they make a fresh batch of gin-based, house Pimm’s liqueur from bar director Erik Adkins’ recipe. With this base, they craft a gorgeous Pimm’s Cup, lively with cucumber and lemon.

A house made Pimm's in Heaven's Dog's Pimm's Cup

Bar manager Kevin Diedrich at Jasper’s Corner Tap downtown just started bottling his own Pimm’s Cup. A vivid orange, it goes down bright and bold with cucumber, ginger, lemon, Pimm’s, soda, and the secret ingredient: a hint of fresh strawberry. Diedrich’s little bottled beauties border on addictive. I wish I could stock them at home.

Pimm’s brand slogan, “It’s Pimm’s O’Clock”, is a cheery call to restore and revivify. Pimm’s Cups are staples in London, even offered as a morning imbibement at farmers markets (like ever popular Borough Market). In New Orleans, the drink is a historic tradition (if not a great version) at 1700′s bar Napoleon House – much needed in muggy Nola heat. I wouldn’t mind seeing more Pimm’s traditions in our own city – it seems we’re on our way.

Wine Cocktails

Global Warming at Maven

Sampling through Spring menus I’ve noticed an old trend – wine cocktails – receiving fresh life, particularly if these three cocktails are any indication.

At Wo Hing, bar manager Brooke Arthur’s new Spring cocktails include a Cynar Spritzer made from the Italian artichoke liqueur, Cynar, and Plymouth Gin, alongside Punt E Mes vermouth, Cava (Spanish sparkling wine), orange bitters, lemon peel and a pinch of salt. This dark, earthy red refresher is blissfully bitter, bright and invigorating, the salt enhancing flavors, the bubbles imparting texture.

Jasper's St. Helena Fizz

Kevin Diedrich at Jasper’s Corner Tap created a St. Helena Fizz served tall in a Collins glass. This wine-based cocktail is blessedly light on alcohol, perfect for a mid-day imbibement, using Newton Chardonnay, St. Germain elderflower, Benedictine, Peychaud’s bitters, Bitter Truth grapefruit bitters and soda. It’s a mini-escape to Wine Country.

Maven’s Kate Bolton created a unique wine aperitif in Global Warming ($11). You get dry riesling, but also sake, even a splash of Ransom’s Old Tom Gin. Tart with lemon, a little scoop of absinthe sorbet permeates the drink as it melts.

Who says vino and spirits don’t mix?

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May
01
2012

Wandering Traveler

EXPLORING EDINBURGH

The Bon Vivant's fantastic haggis pakoras

Bagpipes along the Royal Mile

Edinburgh is a haunted, romantic city of greys and browns, greens and the blue of the sea. I had not been back to Edinburgh and Glasgow in a decade so my trip this past fall was welcome on the heels of a visit to the breathtaking Scottish Highlands and Speyside.

Returning to Edinburgh, it was obvious dining and cocktail scenes had grown tremendously. Though a fraction of what’s available in London, Edinburgh’s efforts are memorable for food and drink lovers alike. Depending on which streets you wander, the city is hip as it is ancient, presided over by its famed castle, bordered by two distinct neighborhoods: Old Town (15th-17th century) and New Town (18th century).

View from front steps of striking 1800's The Dome (bar/restaurant)

From my Princes Street Suites‘ two bedroom apartment (with kitchen), I got chills gazing out. The apartment sat directly over Old Calton Cemetery, where famed Scots like philosopher David Hume, are buried. Green hills, crumbling stones, dark graves and family monuments splayed outside my windows. I was immersed in the haunted history of Scotland, with a front row view from my modern, cozy apartment.

Most eerie was Abraham Lincoln standing tall atop the Scottish-American Soldiers Monument, hand in his pocket. His back was to my apartment, clearly a statue in daylight. But at night, his figure cast a forlorn profile, as if someone was keeping watch in the night from the cemetery mound directly outside my window. It took me a couple nights (and fear that someone was watching) to eventually figure out it was Lincoln, solid and stately, cool as stone.

RESTAURANTS

Sexy Bon Vivant

THE BON VIVANT

Stuart McCluskey’s bar program at The Bon Vivant, from cocktails to an extensive bubbly selection, is already one of the best places to drink in Edinburgh (see “Drink” below). But it’s equally a fantastic place to dine. Dim and romantic, the casual space exudes a Parisian/Spanish bar spirit with drippy candles and convivial glow.

Food is incredibly affordable, bites and small plates ranging from £1-10. It’s vibrant food where tradition (beef & Guinness pie) meets fusion (flash-fried squid with veggies in lemongrass dressing). There’s an  array of Spanish ham, cheese and olives, while the most fun is had in bites like black pudding (blood sausage – incredible in Scotland & Ireland) in tomato chili chutney, or best of all, haggis pakoras, meaty with Indian spices. Utterly playful, it’s an ideal way to try sausage-like haggis, if you have not appreciated its pleasures before.

View from my Princes St. Suites apartment overlooking Old Calton Cemetery

The DOGS

Amazing fish & chips: rainbow trout encrusted in oatmeal

Saddened I was to here of the recent closure, not long after my visit, of Seadogs, the seafood arm of popular restaurants, The Dogs, Amore Dogs and Underdogs bar. Seadogs is where I savored black pudding, fried smelts, and the best rainbow trout fish and chips ever, encrusted not in beer batter, but oatmeal. Though I haven’t eaten at their other restaurants, I’d say they are a safe bet given the quality of Seadogs. I peeked into each of their spaces: funky and comfortable, with friendly staff.

FISHERS in LEITH

Fishers on Leith

The coastal neighborhood of Leith is a charming, laid back port area of Edinburgh evoking old, seafaring Britain with fish and chips and local seafood. Fishers is an Edinburgh tradition, with the original Leith location (there is one other) set in a 17th century watchtower.

The blue and white storefront evokes a fishing village pub but with a little refinement and gourmet preparation. There’s cockles and razor clams, fried and fresh oysters, and whole lobster. I savored sea bass in mint lemon creme fraiche and smoked haddock filet. Best to see what’s fresh and dig in (£5.95-24.95).

Savoring fresh fish at historic Fishers

DRINK

THE BON VIVANT

Tequila Rhubarb Sour, The Volunteer

As mentioned above, I’d put The Bon Vivant on any Edinburgh food list, though it’s a drink destination. Order from Stuart McCluskey’s strong bubbly and Scotch list or from the renowned (with good reason) cocktail menu (generally £6-7).

I delighted in the likes of an elegant, classic Brandy Crusta with Courvoisier Exlusif Cognac, a bright Tequila Rhubarb Sour (blanco, rhubarb, lemon, sugar, cracked pepper), and a boozy Volunteer (Gentleman Jack, Ardbeg 10yr Scotch, Noval Port, demerara syrup, chocolate bitters).

RACONTEUR

Rum Raisin Sazerac w/ absinthe chaser

The strongest classic cocktail bar I visited in Edinburgh is Raconteur, where legendary Blue Blazers were flowing, flame-to-flame, bartenders wore vests and joked generously with customers.

Raconteur sips

But this is no shrine to old recipes. The cocktails (generally £6.50-10) evoke classic spirit with a playful twist, like a sweet Rum Raisin Sazerac mixing Courvoisier Exlusif Cognac, demerara sugar, raisin-infused rum, and rum raisin bitters. Naturally, it’s served with an absinthe chaser.

Their Hot Buttered Toffee is likewise atypical. Ron Zacapa rum, soy milk, nutmeg and cinnamon… sure. But toffee popcorn butter? Makes one feel like a giddy kid on a chilly night. Also of note: in their pineapple-vanilla Pisco Raconteur Punch, they’re using Chilean pisco vs. more common Peruvian pisco.

BRAMBLE BAR

Bramble Bar launched bartending superstars like Ryan Chetiyawardana, who is creating some of the most exciting cocktails in London at Worship St. Whistling Shop, and the aforementioned Stuart McCluskey of The Bon Vivant.

Celery Sour at Bramble

Though the website calls out to cocktail geeks with a quote from David A. Embury on the home page, the bar itself is more funk than stuffiness, loud and rowdy, a gathering place for expats and Scots alike. I was charmed by the DJs’ rap-alt rock mashups (a little Dr. Dre with White Stripes, anyone?), the most eclectic, multi-racial crowd I saw in Edinburgh, and dim, candlelit basement setting. Cocktails run from the classic and classically inspired. to refreshers like a Celery Sour using Beefeater Gin. Particularly pleasing are childlike drinks utilizing popcorn, butterscotch or Coke.

MONTEITH’S

Bramble's cozy, basement setting

Though not as memorable as the three aforementioned bars, Monteith’s bar staff are knowledgeable, creating a range of cocktails from spirituous classics to seasonal refreshers like a Ruby Rickey, made with pink grapefruit marmalade.

The setting is mysterious and appealing, entered into by a narrow, white light-strewn walkway off the Royal Mile. Books, fireplace, plaid chairs and cozy nooks make it an appealing place to linger. Next time I’ll have to try the modern Scottish food.

DIVINO ENOTECA

Sexy Divino Enoteca

Absolutely sexy, the sultry Divino Enoteca is a wine bar with a European-dominant wine list. The subterranean basement setting with exposed brick walls, candles, leather couches, corner booths, feels like New York and Italy combined. An extensive, Italian-centric wine list delights, from Lambrusco to Vermentino.

GUILDFORD ARMS

Scotch Malt Whisky Society's Edinburgh tasting room

Though I focused on cocktails and whisky this trip, for a pint I was mesmerized by the Old World romance of Guildford Arms. It’s an 1800′s Victorian-era beauty, moody with dark woods, wood-canopied bar, upstairs mezzanine, and plenty of beers on draught.

A DRAM OF SCOTCH

Don’t miss the incomparable bar at The Scotch Whisky Experience in Edinburgh, a museum to all things Scotch with over 300 bottles to taste. If you become a member, the one-of-a-kind, single barrel Scotches available only through The Scotch Malt Whisky Society are a must. There’s thankfully a US society, but as a member, don’t miss the two historic Edinburgh and Leith club locations.

COFFEE

Artisan Roast's back room

Two places made me feel right at home with quality coffee. One is is down half a flight of stairs on George Street in New Town, Wellington Coffee, serving top notch cappuccinos with proper foam in a cozy, confined space.

The other is mini, third wave coffee chain, Artisan Roast, with two Edinburgh (and one Glasgow) shop. Artisan Roast’s red booth and burlap sack-lined back room is ideal for lingering with a Chemex coffee or lush, dark hot chocolate laced with pink peppercorn. I particularly appreciate the sign by their doorway, mocking the slew of cafes around Edinburgh that claim part-time resident J.K. Rowling wrote Harry Potter books there: “J.K. Rowling never wrote here.”

"J.K. Rowling never wrote here"

FOOD/DRINK SHOPS &
FARMERS MARKETS

EDINBURGH FARMERS MARKET

Farmers Market beneath Edinburgh Castle

Edinburgh’s Farmers Market, similar to other farmers markets in the UK, is quite light on produce. In fact, compared to what we’re used to here in the Bay Area (yes, we are spoiled), it barely registers as a “farmers” market at all. What it is, however, is a worthy showcase of local food purveyors: bakers, chocolatiers, butchers, cheesemongers, even one vegan food source.

I sampled numerous treats, like Stichill’s lovely Jersey cow cheeses, Puddledub’s buffalo and Angus beef, Stoat’s porridge cart (Balvenie Double Wood Whisky & Honey porridge, thank you very much!), Tay Valley Fruits’ quirky chutneys and sauces (like hot banana chutney), and Valvona & Criolla‘s caramelized onion flatbread. All this in the shadow of the grand Edinburgh Castle. 

THE BON VIVANTS COMPANION

Bon Vivant's Companion

Next door to The Bon Vivant, Stuart McCluskey has opened the darling Bon Vivant’s Companion, a dream liquor shop, brand new when I was there last fall.

This well-curated selection of beer, cider, wine, bubbly, spirits, bitters and barware has no equal in town. Plus there’s an atmospheric, brick-walled basement for events and tastings, lined with vintage barware and antique trunks.

ROYAL MILE WHISKIES

Royal Mile Whiskies

The best for-purchase whisky selection (and whiskey, for that matter) seen in my Scotland travels was Royal Mile Whiskies. Despite its touristy setting smack dab in the middle of the Royal Mile, it’s an aficionado’s as well as a novice’s haven, with samples given from passionate staff who are well-versed far beyond Scotch, from Japanese to American whiskies, even on gin and tequila. I spent far more time here than planned and would return every time I’m in Edinburgh. Bonus: bottle prices are reasonable and they’ll ship to you as the law allows.

L’EPICERIE

L'Epicerie's charming shop

L’Epicerie is a delightful little French deli making fresh macarons daily (delicious), selling cheese, charcuterie, French ciders, homemade rillettes and terrines, Calvados and Armagnac.

COCO CHOCOLATE

Coco Chocolate is the best local chocolate I’ve had in Scotland but also one of the better chocolatiers I’ve had in Europe (Paul A. Young in London is tops).

Charming Coco Chocolate

They don’t do truffles so much as handmade bars, like herbaceous rosemary or rose and black pepper. I wanted the tobacco bar to taste more of tobacco but it was barely noticeable. However, my favorites were pink peppercorn and nutmeg, and in particular, lime and coconut, tropical flair invigorating dark chocolate.

View of Edinburgh from Greyfriars Kirkyard (church graveyard)

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Written by in: Wandering Traveler | Tags:
May
01
2012

Around the Bay

Brasa's sunny, charming back patio

NEW EAST & SOUTH BAY CHEAP EATS

In the spirit of my new SF cheap eats article last issue (and recent Guardian column), here are two noteworthy new cheap eats joints East and South: Berkeley and Palo Alto.

ASIAN BOX, Palo Alto (855 El Camino Real, 650-391-9305)

Fresh, Asian eats in Palo Alto

Asian Box is a newer take-out shop (with one narrow communal table inside and a couple tables outside) in a mobbed Palo Alto strip mall. What could be just another casual Asian food joint has two key things going for it. One is two former San Francisco chefs behind it: executive chef Grace Nguyen, of Out The Door’s Bush Street location, and Chad Newton, who many of us followed at Fish & Farm (where he created one incredible burger).

The other is that Asian Box’s affordable food ($6.95-$8.25) is ultra-fresh and satisfying. It’s an assemble-your-own meal, starting with short or long grain rice, Asian vegetable salad or rice noodles. Choose a protein – I like juicy garlic soy glazed beef or creamy coconut curry tofu, and finish with add-ons like jalapeno, bean sprouts, carrots, peanuts, mint, basil, pickled vegetables, lime – all at no additional charge (except for a .95 caramel egg).

Choose-your-own ingredients

In terms of sauces, creamy peanut sauce with lime and coconut stands out, while there’s also Sriracha and a no oil fish sauce. Vietnamese iced coffee and tart lemon lime marmalade ($2.95 – both winners) flow from juice dispensers, while, much as I wanted to try it, house Jungle jerky ($2.75) was sold out on my recent visit.

Though SF residents needn’t trek from the city, if you’re in the area, it’s easily one of the best cheap meals in Palo Alto and would be a lunch hit in SF if they had a Financial District location.

BRASA, Berkeley (1960 University Avenue at Milvia; 510-868-0735)

Brasa Peruvian

In the space were eVe used to be (which I included in the Guardian’s 2010 Best of the Bay), husband/wife owners, Veronica and Chris Laramie, reopened the place as Brasa, a casual Peruvian eatery with lime green and neutral walls, and idyllic back deck. While they hope to revisit the eVe concept in a bigger space eventually, Veronica tells me the current goal is to open another Brasa.

The menu is simple, heartwarming Peruvian fare, if not solely worth heading across the bridge for, is worthwhile if in the area. Classic Peruvian favorites like Lomo Saltado here become a sandwich ($8.25) packed with hangar steak, red onion, tomato, soy sauce, and French fries.

Brasa's small dining room

Their house specialty is rotisserie chicken (quarter to whole chicken with 1-2 sides: $8.75-$21.75), crispy skin dotted with herbs. We have quality rotisserie in SF, but dipping sauces are a plus here, featuring common Peruvian peppers, aji amarillo and rocoto, my favorite being a green hucatay, sometimes referred to as Peruvian black mint, though it is actually an herb related to marigold and tarragon. The sauce is spicy, herbaceous and creamy.

Sip a refreshing chicha morada ($2), a sweet, purple corn Peruvian juice laden with clove and cinnamon, and finish with house alfajores ($3.50), dulce de leche sandwich cookies (though my favorite alfajores remain Sabores del Sur in SF) or Straus soft serve ice cream (cone $3, pint $6) infused with coffee caramel.

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May
01
2012

On the Town

PEBBLE BEACH FOOD & WINE
April 12-15, 2012

Landing in a helicopter at the base of the Santa Lucia Highlands for a Carmel Road vineyard wine tasting

My first Pebble Beach Food & Wine this April. Despite chilly breezes post-rainfall and those outrageously high ticket prices ($500 is a cheap dinner ticket), it was a bustling, fun-filled weekend of food and far more wine, much of it high quality, celebrity chefs, after (and after-after) parties, copious amounts of caviar, champagne and white Burgundy sipped overlooking the waves from the Inn at Spanish Bay fire pits, and a helicopter ride with sommeliers landing in Carmel Road’s idyllic winery grounds at the base of the Santa Lucia Highlands.

Here is a photo recap of highlights from the weekend…

Helicopter view just after takeoff from the Monterey airport

After landing on Carmel Road's expansive grounds, we road this tractor to a pinot tasting tent among the vines

Carmel Road riesling tasting tent waiting as our helicopter landed

Bites from Restaurant 1833 in Monterey to pair with the wines

Inside Saturday's Grand Tasting

Intelligentsia coffee station

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

At Saturday's Grand Tasting: Chef Craig von Foerster's (Post Ranch Inn, Big Sur) raw beef

At Saturday's Grand Tasting: Chef John Sedlar's (Rivera, Los Angeles) corn pudding

Chef Sang Yoon of Lukshon (Los Angeles)

Chef Sam Choy of Sam Choy's Kai Lanai, Kailua-Kona (Hawaii)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Joe's Stone Crab crew came out from Florida bearing fresh stone crab which was available in endless supply at Saturday's mid-afternoon caviar & champagne party at the Inn at Spanish Bay fire pits

Chef Chris Cosentino of Incanto (San Franisco)

Chef Elizabeth Falkner - moving from SF to NYC

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sunset at the Lodge at Pebble Beach before Saturday's Italian Love Affair Dinner

Chef Paul Bartolatta (Las Vegas) in the kitchen preparing his course for Italian Love Affair Dinner

Chef Nancy Silverton (Mozza, LA) preps her course at Italian Love Affair Dinner

THE best course of the Italian Love Affair Dinner: Chef Michael White's (of Marea, NYC) agnolotti filed with duck liver & guinea hen in rich foie gras sauce

Chef Paul Bartolotta (Bartolotta Ristorante di Mare, Las Vegas) explains his course at the Italian Love Affair Dinner

Italian Love Affair Dinner: Fabio Viviani jokes after intro as a Top Chef star: "I've lost that freakin' show twice-screw Top Chef!"

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Food Network star Anne Burrell smiles & interacts with fans at Sunday's Grand Tasting

Chef Douglas Rodriguez (Alma de Cuba, Miami) serves a Sunday Grand Tasting favorite: egg baked inside a pupusa-like corn patty

Chef Michael White (Marea, NYC) explains decadent ingredients of his agnolotti, receiving an "ahhh" from diners when mentioning foie gras sauce, joking: "I wish I could get this response from my wife"

Nancy Silverton (Mozza, LA) prepares one of the simplest, best tastes of Sunday's grand tasting: perfect burrata & tomatoes in pesto sauce with toasted bread

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Written by in: On the Town | Tags:
Apr
15
2012

April 15, 2012

“What harbor can receive you more securely than a great library?”
Italo Calvino, If On A Winter’s Night a Traveler

My stay way up north in Scotland at the Macallan estate (see "Wandering Traveler")

Just back from a vivid, taste-filled weekend at Pebble Beach Food & Wine (more on that next issue), I anticipate a sunny spring week ahead.

Top TastesThe Hunt for Authentic Bay Area BBQ: It’s tough finding BBQ that comes to close to the best in the South. BBQ-obsessed, I continue the search for the real deal among new Bay Area ‘que joints.

Craving BBQ (& sauce) - on the hunt for the real deal outside the South (see "Top Tastes")

ImbiberLocal Edition: The Future Bars/Bourbon & Branch crew have done it again with a 1950′s era, underground bar just opened in the Examiner’s former printing room.

The LatestGourmet Cheap Eats: The latest in taste-worthy cheap eats, from Dorito chicken salad sandwiches, to Russian piroshkis, to a Muffaletta in a Bayview parking lot.

Wandering TravelerScotland & Scotch: My stay at the enchanting Macallan Estate in Speyside and rare scotch tastes from my Scotland travels.

I’d love your feedback on any spots visited from my site. As your personal concierge who tells it to you like a good friend would, I also create personalized itineraries: trips, meals, explorations (under “Services“).

Let me guide you to the perfect spot,

Virginia

Follow me on Twitter: http://twitter.com/ThePerfectSpot

Recent entries in my Bay Guardian column:
Jazzy 1950′s era bar in a former newspaper printing room – visiting new Local Edition
Two on the Rise: Bar Tartine & Txoko’s Evolution
The Magic of Monterey’s Restaurant 1833
New bar manager and menu at Heaven’s Dog

**Unless otherwise noted, all photos by Virginia Miller**

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