TOP TASTES in Drink

This issue’s Top Tastes in DRINK

BEER

Beef Tenderloin at Monk's Kettle

•  Attending a media-only Sam Adams Utopias dinner was a real treat at Monk’s Kettle on 11/19. Monk’s chef, Kevin Kroger, created a four course dinner of luxurious comfort food, each course paired (and some cooked) with a Sam Adams brew. I must digress to food for a moment: medium rare, ultra-tender Beef Tenderloin Tournedos in classic green peppercorn sauce, were nearly overshadowed by an unforgettable side: Sage Bread Pudding, crispy outside, moist and dense within. Some of us attendees are still emailing about it.

As for the beers, we were treated to seven, with commentary from Sam Adams brewer, Bert Boyce, direct from Boston, who mingled with us, talking beer and the coasts (East & West, that is) over dinner. I’ve had Coastal Wheat, Old Fezziwig Ale and classic Boston Lager before, but we also drank an intense, velvety Double Bock highlighting the purity of malted barley. Then, a rare, beauteous 1994 Triple Bock (17% ABV) with toffee, maple, oak notes, ending with the evening’s centerpiece: Utopias, the world’s strongest beer at 27% ABV. I’ll say, as many others already have, this tastes nothing like beer. It’s caramely, unique, rich – brewed like a beer, though not carbonated, more reminiscent of a fine sherry or port. Ruby black in color, at a few hundred bucks a bottle, it may not make it onto all our shelves, but I’d crave it after any dinner… or for dessert. Sam Adams founder and brewer, Jim Koch, says he wanted “to elevate people’s thinking about beer and to push the boundaries of traditional brewing in order to offer beer lovers an inspired drinking experience“. I would say he has…

COFFEE

Frescobaldi's 1999 Luce

•  I’ve been indulging more than once lately in Coffee Bar’s El Diablo.  The smooth mix of espresso, chipotle-infused milk, Guittard Chocolate, rocks my mornings with a subtle heat.

WINE

•  I move from food at the Inspirations of Tuscany dinner at Luce, to the wines… with Frescobaldi estates executive chef behind the stove, what better pairing than Frescobaldi wines? Each ranged from fine to superb, whether a bright, layered 2007 Benefizio or the subtle spice of Nipozzano Riserva Chianti Classico. Forced to choose, my favorites are a 2006 Attems Cicinis, a full-bodied white blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Bianco and Tocai Friulano grapes; and on the red side, a ’99 Luce from Montalcino (I love that idyllic Tuscan village), velvety, tannin-heavy, and well integrated with 50% Merlot/50% Sangiovese.

SPIRITS

•  The first annual Indy Spirits Expo was held at Mighty on 11/19 and though I had to miss the VIP hour due to a prior event (sigh), finding the place way too packed and party-like by the time I arrived, I’m pleased at a spirits event showcasing only small batch, high quality artisanal spirits.

J. Witty's Chamomile Liqueur (photo: www.jwittyspirits.com)

A few were represented I’m already a fan of, like North Shore Distillery in Chicago, and nearby Hangar One and Germain-Robin. Unexpected discoveries came in the form of J. Witty Spirits’ organic Chamomile Liqueur, served by the gracious Jill Witty (founder) herself. It’s even better than it sounds, both straight and in a cocktail. Lightly sweet, aromas of allspice precede a balanced mix of apples, clove, honey, with floral, spiced notes. A number of our fine establishments around town sell or serve it (here’s a list).

I took to the complexity of Corrido’s Extra Anejo, a tequila triple-aged in three types of barrels for a minimum of three years. Vanilla, white pepper, even sour cherry notes, hit my tongue, and the layers keep unfolding.

BELGIAN ALE HOUSES

The Belgian craze hit hard last year with three Bay Area openings… its not new news. But it’s good news. Here’s my take after they have been open a few months:

La Trappe

La Trappe: My personal favorite for atmosphere alone, made perfect by the beer selection. When you walk down a dark wood, winding staircase to the brick walled, candlelit basement, you’re transported. For me, it’s reminiscent of atmospheric basement bars I visited in Berlin (minus flames shooting out of the walls). The glow of candles and classic jazz playing over the speakers creates a relaxed, intimate vibe.

Sadly, expect a differing degree of enjoyment depending on which bartender you get. They’re all quite knowledgeable about the overwhelming range of beers both by the bottle and in the ever-changing, impressive tap selection. Out of the 138 beers in the regular menu, 113 are Belgians, many served in different shaped glasses with each beer’s logo on it.

The staff offer many tastes of tap beers to help you choose just the right one. In early visits, the bartender chatted up my group and I like old friends, serving us mini-glasses of just about everything on tap. But on a recent visit, another bartender said he might “get in trouble” if he served us too many tastes. Really?

A more unfortunate recent note was being told we could not eat our Mussels and Frites anywhere other than at the bar (or a dining table), when we already had staked out a cozy spot on the leather couches. It felt like we were kids being relegated to the kitchen table for fear we’d spill – when I asked why the change, they mumbled something about not having the necessary staff to clean it up. An odd reason, since they’re already cleaning up beers.

These inconsistencies breed concern, marring the overall experience. But having met one of the owners weeks after they opened, I see what a quality person he is and what vision he and his partner have for the place. I hope for consistency and growth as they pass the year mark. La Trappe has a magical environment and beer selection unlike any around – well worth trekking across town for (I go on quieter weeknights).

Pair your beers with savory dishes like Rabbit Stew or traditional Belgian Mussels and Frites, served three ways (I loved the non-traditional option of Mussels in Coconut Curry with Jasmine Rice). Most importantly, the Beer/Ale selection is full of rich treasures that will keep you coming back again and again.

Monk's Kettle

Monk’s Kettle: The space is small and waits are long if you don’t go on an “off” hour. But thank you, Monk’s Kettle, for being open all day, every day, providing plenty of hours one can hit this Mission treasure for a quiet pint or hearty ‘pub grub’.

With 24 draft beers and over 100 bottles, they’ve arranged the well thought-out beer selection by taste profile so you can satisfy any given mood with the right ale. The food is no afterthought: from artisan Cheese and Charcuterie plates, to hearty favorites like Chili, Burgers (Niman Ranch, of course) and Pulled Pork. There’s also a Pot Pie of the Day, gourmet entrees in the $12-18 range such as pork chops, chicken breast or beef short ribs. I love the Pretzel with Stone Ground Mustard and Cheddar Ale Sauce (I have to ask for more of both!)

The small room (formerly beloved Kelly’s Burgers) doesn’t allow much leeway for even the imaginative. But dark wood booths are squeezed in as pleasing an arrangement as possible given the tiny space, and the atmosphere is more about the food, drink and company you’re with, not special on its own, like La Trappe. I find the service more even at Monk’s Kettle; certainly well informed, with waiters and bartenders who love the drink and food they serve.

The Trappist

The Trappist: The Trappist is a narrow, brick-walled bar in Downtown Oakland that doesn’t serve food and offers little opportunity to sit. But in the Bay Area’s Trappist/Belgian Ale scene, it’s well worth mentioning for it’s 15 rotating taps and over 140 bottles of excellent beers. With “no big corporate beer” as their website motto, you can be sure that the beer/ale connoisseurs among you will come away satiated.