BERKELEY

LOCANDA DA EVA – It’s interesting to see a food writer open his own restaurant… dining out every night (and often lunch, too) gives you a unique perspective from which to assess what elements create the most magic in atmosphere, while it inevitably imparts harsh comparison standards.

Robert Lauriston, who’s all over Chowhound boards and used to write for the SF Weekly, opened Locanda da Eva in what was the beloved Zax Tavern space with chef Huw Thornton (formerly of SPQR) in the kitchen.

I must admit, I wearied of yet another gourmet pizza opening (even as I never weary of eating good pizza) with antipasti, pasta, etc… and the Berkeley location means I couldn’t visit multiple times and still write this within any reasonable time frame of its opening. So my initial caveat is that this is based on one visit.

I was struck by the glow of woods and lighting as I walked through the bar but found the dining area a little chain-like in appearance. Ultra-dim lighting (making photos difficult to take) eased some of the blandness, casting a warm glow, as did a welcome jazz soundtrack.

Things accelerated the moment I got a drink. The lovely Jackie Patterson created the cocktail menu and it shows. A small, but thoughtful selection covers the range from Campari to rye. Temezcal ($9) is a smoky little imbibement of Siete Leguas Silver Tequila and Benesin Mezcal balanced with St. Germain and Dolin Blanc Vermouth. I was particularly impressed with Jackie’s Kingston Old Fashioned ($9). Another twist on one of my favorite classics, I feared it might be sweet with a combo of two rums (Appleton Extra and Smith & Cross). Not so. Rounded out with cane syrup, Angostura and orange bitters, it had a tinge of molasses sweetness but was spicy, earthy, round. Another, please.

Then there’s Lauriston’s obsessive, detailed wine list. Our server told me he’s fine to have someone take it home if they wished. I did. Not one selection is an afterthought, with thoughtful explanations and details. While he is not a sommelier, his love for vino shows in a predominantly Italian selection plus some French, Argentinian, and West Coast wines.

Starters were strong, especially Pork Trotter Fritters ($9) with roasted corn and Poblano peppers, one of the better trotter dishes I’ve had this year. Also liked tender Beef Tongue ($9) with radishes, pickled onions and a perky tomatillo salsa brightening the meat.

On the pasta front, al dente house pastas satisfied, particularly Spaghetti ($16) with walnut pesto, cherry tomatoes, Pecorino Romano. I also sampled Strozzapreti ($16), rich with chiles, lamb sausage, roasted eggplant, tomatoes, ricotta salata. But I unexpectedly preferred Pork & Fennel Sausage (house made) Pizza ($14). It certainly isn’t the best pizza I’ve ever had but was utterly satisfying and savory topped with roasted gypsy peppers, Grana Padano, red onions, and Robiola cheese.

Pork Loin Saltimbocca ($19) is solid, wrapped in La Quercia prosciutto with a side mostarda of nectarines, currants, radicchio. Even better? Braised Chicken & Ricotta Meatballs ($18) with kale, onions, Grana Padano, spiced with sumac and cumin. The meatballs are soft, dissolving with a mild, meaty finish.

An unusual and fun dish, and oddly enough, may have been my favorite here, was a seasonal side that is now off the menu: Fried Brentwood Corn on the Cob ($6) with a salsa verde aioli-style dip. Crispy, juicy, sweet, it takes the vegetable in a playful direction.

I went for the most popular dessert: Peanut Butter & Chocolate Chip Cookies ($8), filled with peanut butter gelato, bitter chocolate ganache, and sea salt. It’s as pleasing, peanuty and creamy as it sounds.

Our waiter’s recommend of a Polenta Torte ($8) soaked in chamomile grappa liqueur, covered in nectarines, blackberries and citrus mascarpone, was a straightforward, pure, sophisticated finish.

SAN CARLOS

THE REFUGE – Much has already been said about the famed pastrami at San Carlos’ Belgian bar and hearty sandwich/burger spot, The Refuge. Jan Newberry of San Francisco magazine rightly lists it as one of the best in her sandwich guide.

All I can say, is get there if you haven’t. These are among the best of these kinds of sandwiches on the West Coast (yes, I’ve had Brent’s and Langer’s, et. al.)  The beer selection is excellent, especially for the South Bay. Belgians and sours flow. And, yes, the pastrami sandwiches, whether plain ($13), with Swiss and mustard ($14), toasted slaw #19 ($16) with coleslaw and Russian Dressing, or as a reuben ($16) with sauerkraut, Swiss and Russian Dressing, all slay you with chunky, meaty tenderness. It may not be the best I’ve ever had, but it’s up there.

In the wake of the pastrami hype, however, I was shocked to find I loved the Roast Brisket of Beef ($12) more. The beef is sliced thin and in tangy sweet Carolina-style sauce with a lather of horseradish cream to give the already melting combo of warm bread and meat even more lusciousness.

On the ‘lighter’ side, you can have your meat, Prosciutto in this case, with Peaches ($14) as a salad. But you’re missing out on a simple yet profound pleasure if you skip that beef sandwich.

BERKELEY

SLOW – There’s a fairly recent, winning little neighboring trio on this block University Ave. Husband/wife restaurant, eVe, utilizes fine dining technique at a steal, while next door Chocolatier Blue creates delicate chocolates and hot chocolates. Add in the newest member, Slow, and you have the trio. Their connection is no coincidence: they all know each other from days working in Charlie Trotter’s kitchen.

Nebraska native Kyle Anderson is the chef at Slow, recreating his fine dining background (which also includes a stint at none other than Daniel Boulud’s Daniel in NY) in a casual Berkeley take-out setting. There are a few stools to eat in, a peaceful back garden, and you can order anything to-go, all under $12.

The experience is not equivalent to eating at a sit-down restaurant, but for take-out, the quality is welcome. Braised Short Rib ($12) is the highest-priced dish (and most popular in its few opening weeks), served with mascarpone polenta, tender escabeche carrots and roasted cippolini onions.

I was less enthused with the Stuffed (with eggplant, peppers, mango) Portobello Mushroom ($10) over potatoes and cauliflower, which was well-prepared but a little bland compared to the rest despite a mango perk. Chilled Mussels ($6) in citrus broth make a refreshing starter, as do White Anchovies with marinated olives ($6). The purity of a straightforward Heirloom Tomato/Basil/Mozzarella Salad ($5) ended up being the most satisfying dish, colorful with green and red tomatoes. A dessert finish of Seasonal Cobbler ($3) evoked Fall and home cooking.

COCKTAILS

SPOONBAR, Healdsburg - I wrote last issue about Spoonbar in Sonoma County. It’s up to you get out there… and fast… for some of the best cocktails in all of the Bay Area (no surprise) from Mr. Scott Beattie.

Ask for the full cocktail menu beyond the one you get when first seated. It’s a glory of new creations, featuring edible flowers and the herbal, produce-driven beauties Beattie has perfected since Cyrus days. There’s the added bonus of classics done with a Beattie sensibility. I get giddy at the site of three versions each of Old-Fashioneds, Negronis, Manhattans and Sazeracs, the holy foursome of cocktails.

I chose the Tempus Fugit Negroni ($8.50). How could I not? Made with Ransom’s impeccable Old Tom Gin, Dolin Rouge Vermouth, orange zest and Tempus Fugit‘s brilliant Gran Classico Bitter, it’s a musky, full revelation.

On the classics front, Beattie’s Dark ‘n Stormy trumps all others. There’s an Appleton Reserve version for $7.50 (or pitcher for five at $37.50). I had the Ron Zacapa Solera 23 (a rum I’ve long been a fan of) version for $9/$45. With fresh lime juice and Angostura bitters, Beattie adds drops of essential ginger oil for a pure, full taste. Locally grown sunflower leaves are a vivid garnish.

Going the creative Beattie route is equally thrilling. John Chapman ($10.5) is a taste of fall. When you mix St. George Whiskey and Pear Eau de Vie with lemon, apple, ginger and a Thai coconut foam, you get magic. Ditto, on the other side of the spectrum, with the Summery  Siddartha ($9.5). This one utilizes Hangar One Buddha’s Hand Citron Vodka with Beefeater Gin, St. Germain Elderflower, lemon, Thai coconut milk and lemon verbena. It’s silky, seductively bright and garden fresh.

Trust a drink from Beattie and try the spectrum. I am plotting a return…

BAR AGRICOLE, SoMa - I’ve been asked about my take on the new and long awaited hotspot from Thad Vogler. Though I tried three cocktails and bites at a pre-opening event for Bar Agricole, I did not walk away with enough of a stand-out yet to give you a proper report, though I’m sure one will be forthcoming.

I will say the space is strikingly unique, welcome in our city of understated dining rooms. It’s forward-thinking and fresh, from the photography behind the bar, to radiant light fixtures, to the awesome front garden and patio.

15 ROMOLO, North Beach - I’m always happy here… you hear me say it enough. The 15 Romolo guys do it again with two divergent cocktails. One is Spaghetti Western ($9), it’s cool name belying the crazy candy taste that happens when rye and Campari meld with sweet tomatoes (love the plump tomato garnish), lemon and a Pilsner float. The other, the spirituous bitter of Lo Scandinavo ($11) with North Shore aquavit, Gran Classico, Carpano Antica… a Scandinavian approach to a Negroni.

TAMARINDO ANTJOERIA’s MIEL BAR and REVIVAL BAR & KITCHEN, Oakland and Berkeley - And in the East Bay, Tamarindo Antojeria opened a tequila bar, Miel, in half of their restaurant, a chic, shining temple of all things tequila. Besides a fine selection of tequilas by the pour, cocktails like the Mezcalito ($12) highlight Del Maguey’s Creme de Mezcal with a little fresh orange and volcanic salt rim. They do a nice job on their margaritas and Paloma, too.

Revival Bar & Kitchen is a welcome cocktail stop in downtown Berkeley, even if the menu (food and drink) is similar to many you’ve seen in SF in recent years. They do classics, like Death in the Afternoon, Bourbon Crusta and Jalisco Sour, but also whip up specials of their bartender’s doing, fresh with the likes of lavender, lemon and egg white.

REZA ESMAILI’S ROSEBUD, served at SF CHEFS’ SPICE PARTY

This is a layered, aromatic aperitivo created by Reza for SF Chefs and one of my favorite drinks of the week. He was gracious enough to share the recipe…

Rosebud
1oz vodka
.5oz Hendrick’s gin
1oz Lillet Blanc
.5oz Aperol
3 drops rosewater
1 “Russia Rose” or mini, dry rose used for asian teas

-stir ingredients for approx 10 seconds
-strain into two sherry or port glasses
-garnish with rose
serves two

SPIRITS

MINISTRY OF RUM – Another year of Ministry of Rum, a fine rum tasting event put on by rum expert (and a downright great guy), Ed Hamilton (read about last year’s here).

Many of last year’s same vendors were there at Waterfront Hotel/Miss Pearl’s Jam House in Jack London Square. Bartending greats shook cocktails as we sipped through various rums.

Diplomatico Reserva Exclusiva stands out with a caramelized, spiced nose and buttery spice and tobacco flavors. Cruzan’s smooth Single Barrel Rum is an easy after-dinner sip: a light but mature, pleasing rum at the right price (retails from $27-35 online).

Despite the greater aged 8 and 12 year El Dorado rums, I prefer the 5 year cask-aged version. It’s medium-bodied, lively and redolent of the tropics with toasted coconut and fruit notes.

Each time I’ve tasted them, I enjoy honey and dark chocolates notes in Santa Teresa 1796, aged in Solera oak barrels, and Flor de Cana’s rich, charred oak and dark caramel-tinged Centenario 18 year.

Black Tot Rum was the big hoopla of the afternoon, a 40-year rum doled out in dropper-sized tastes. From the little I could gather, it was nuanced though hardly revelatory, especially compared to whiskies of similar age. Though I find some younger rums more exciting, Black Tot was nonetheless an excellent slice of history and a worthy sip.

When it comes to rum, I can’t help but return to Zacapa rums as favorites, both the Centenario and the XO.

Here’s to next year, and thanks, Ed, for ever furthering our knowledge and showing us the scope of rum.

HEAVEN HILL – Heaven Hill has an enviable line-up including some of my favorite bourbons in existence. I jumped at a chance to stop in at 83 Proof on my way to judging a whisky contest to sip one of my top bourbons (another being Pappy Van Winkle 20 and 23 year): Parker’s Heritage.

I fell in love after first trying their anniversary edition at Whiskyfest. Tasting Parker’s 27 year again is fabulous every time. Sip their Golden Anniversary edition and you’ve died and gone to bourbon heaven.

I adore rye, and Rittenhouse 25-year Rye is surely a fine one, but I’m not sure I gained much more from the added years. When it comes to aged rye, my love still lies with Van Winkle Family Reserve 13-yr Rye, which is, tragically, very hard to come by.

ST. GEORGE’s AGUA LIBRE - Don’t even get me started on how much I love St. George Spirits. I’ve been a fan for years, from my rush to purchase their incomparable Absinthe Verte upon release, to the loss of my last bottle of Agua Azul Reposado until they make a tequila again in the future, I’ve been proud to have them in the Bay Area. Tours, release parties, any event at the distillery is memorable.

I won’t go into the joys and secrets of a private tour from distiller Dave Smith last week, replete with tastes, whiffs and ecstasies from bottles, test tubes and barrels of unreleased products. Experimentation is alive and well at St. George/Hangar One and it thrills me to witness it.

In the meantime, there’s two brand new releases to enjoy. The first US rum agricole grown from US sugarcane, Agua Libre comes in two forms: dark, aged rum and white, unaged, both grassy and smooth. Also, the second batch of Firelit Coffee Liqueur was just released with dark chocolate notes from the Blue Bottle beans.

BERKELEY

• Gather – Yes, it’s local, sustainable, organic (even the spirits, wine and beer). Though that’s happily typical in the Bay Area, I venture to say that Gather, open only since December, already operates like a hardly “typical”, fully-realized restaurant. In a large, rounded corner room, the bustling, open space is in full view of the kitchen, a muted showpiece in the center of activity. It’s casual, holistic and chic, all at the same time.

Cocktails stand out with organic spirits (like Papagayo rum), without sacrificing craftsmanship and taste. Portions are small but classically so, in the proper sizes cocktails once were served. Greg’s Pisco Sour ($10) is served in a champagne flute with Square One cucumber vodka, Marian Farms pisco, lemon, lime, with shaved hibiscus over the top of egg white foam.

Humo Dulce ($12), 4 Copas tequila, Del Maguey Crema de Mezcal, lime, pineapple gum syrup, captures the proper smokiness of the mezcal and doesn’t play it sweet. Wines and beers are local and organic, from Bay Area south to Santa Cruz, north to Wine Country and Mendocino.

Not your typical grilled squid dish, Monterey Bay Squid ($12), on Forbidden black rice, with aioli, mint, chili, bacon, is a sumptuous small plate with layers and warmth. All I can say is “wow” for 28-month House-Cured Ham ($13) with grilled Castelfranco, marinated crescenza, cardoon-walnut salsa. The crescenza cheese is warm and melting over a delightful, thinly sliced ham, prosciutto-like, ribboned with fat. One of the best dishes here.

The piece de resistance is Vegan “Charcuterie” ($14)… and this comes from a decidedly non-vegetarian. As soon as this artwork array of vegetables come out on a wood slab, you know you’re about to experience something unique. If only veggies were always this flavor-packed, we’d eat them without complaint. Completely worth the price for a vegetable extravaganza. On the platter was:
- Heirloom carrots, green garlic confit, mint, English pea-tarragon puree
- Grilled asparagus, almond-pepper puree, Spanish red spring garlic, “aioli”
- Roasted sunchokes, Rub Red crescent potatoes, fried onion cabernet vinaigrette, oyster mushrooms
- Roasted baby beets, shaved fennel, dill, blood orange, horseradish almond puree, pistachio
- Fried tofu skin bruschetta, avocado, spicy baby fennel escabeche.

Those of us who eat for a living can get burnt out on the pizza insanity of recent years… that is, until we have another great one. I did not come here for pizza but as soon as I saw one, I had to order it. Puffy crust bubbles up in charred mounds filled with doughy bread and the house Sausage Pizza ($17) did not disappoint, laden with spring onion salsa, oregano, corno di capra (sweet peppers). A Petrale Sole special ($22) was a flaky, grilled fish with greens and lemon, rustically presented. It’s always work picking out little bones but the dish recalled whole fish I’ve had in Switzerland, fresh from the lakes.

With little room left for dessert, I still managed to bask in the light cream of Citrus Rice Pudding ($7.50) with uber-tart Meyer lemon frozen yogurt and cinnamon-dusted graham shortbread. This early on, I project that Gather is not only one of the East Bay’s best new openings but already one of its best restaurants.

OAKLAND

• Hibiscus is one of those chic Uptown newcomers with rustic walls and homey notes mixed with modern sensibilities serving “upscale” Caribbean food. I absolutely love the space, especially the charming bar area, which looks pretty different from the spacious dining room. It’s inviting, as is the sweet staff. I want to be crazy about the food, too, and I think it shows great promise. The restaurant is still in its early weeks of opening and should become more even over time. For now, ingredients are of high quality, even as some dishes stand out more than others. Exec Chef Sarah Kirnon plays with a range of culinary influences from Trinidad to the Congo. Jerk Cornish Hen ($10.25) is prepared Maroon-style (Jamaican), with luscious coconut-braised Sea Island peas and Red Fresno salsa. This was my favorite dish.

Super spicy Crab & Grits ($9) turns the traditional Southern dish on its head with Caribbean spices, peppers and plenty of heat. Saltfish & Ackee ($8.75), the national dish of Jamaica, comes with sweet plantains, contrasting with salty cod and heat intensity of garlic oil. Split-Pea Fritters ($7.50) with tamarind sauce weren’t as flavorful or texturally interesting as I’d hoped.

A simple Parish Punch ($7) is a mix of El Dorado Rum and house Ginger Limeade, initially a bit sweet, but once the salty heat of the meal kicks in, a refreshing soother. With ingredients and animals sourced locally and sustainably, not to mention the welcome pleasure of something different, this place has the potential of becoming another downtown Oakland gem.

SOUTH SAN FRANCISCO

• South San Francisco’s Xiao Long Bao Kitchen makes some mean xiao long bao (Shanghai soup dumplings). They’re downright addictive and among the better I’ve had locally, warm broth oozing over ground pork and chewy dumpling wrapper. $6.95 for eight good-sized dumplings is a deal. If you order one giant one, good luck trying to eat it.

Top Tastes is my usual run-down of tastes over the past two weeks. Rather than a list of all-time favorites (another thing altogether), it’s highlights since my last newsletter, often from new openings. Many don’t make the cut, being a revisit written about before or simply not as stand-out as dishes mentioned.

SAVORY – MEAT

• Berkeley’s Brazil Cafe feels like vacation… hit the original, street-side stand (they now have an indoor restaurant down the street), draped in palm leaves, with umbrella-covered tables, faded posters of Rio, a surfboard menu, and friendly owner, Pedro Robin, who seems like he lives a perpetual vacation. A Mango or Avocado Smoothie washes down the insanely tasty (fast becoming legendary around Berkeley) Tri-Tip Sandwich ($7.99), doused in addictive cilantro garlic sauce. Tender, juicy tri-tip is loaded with pineapple, jalapeno, green olive, tomato, onion, lettuce – a small bit of each for overall balance. Really, perfection in a sandwich. I’m salivating just thinking about it.

• Though I think $15 is an insane amount to pay for a sandwich of this size and from a lunch window next to Enrico’s in North Beach, Naked Lunch (skilled Chef Ian Begg, of now-closed Cafe Majestic) serves some truly gourmet sandwiches at a worthy $8-9… until you get to the mother lode: the $15 Foie Gras Torchon & Duck Prosciutto Sandwich with Heirloom tomato, butter lettuce, white truffle oil. You might still be hungry afterwards, but it’s well worth trying – a luscious, luxurious, if spendy, sandwich.

SAVORY – VEGETARIAN

•  It was with humor and reverence that I entered Doc’s Clock blissfully greasy bar on a Sunday, ordered a peppery Bloody Mary ($8) with a tender piece of tri-tip and two stalks of asparagus (all of which bartender, Ryan, grills himself some Sundays), placed it on my Michael Jackson (Jackson 5 days) placemat and opened up a Bible to the Three Papayas menu inside. Three Papayas is chef Ta-Wei Lin, who just launched Vietnamese brunch every Sunday afternoon from 12-4pm at Doc’s. Portions are huge and all $8 (about 5 of them). Chef Lin garnishes plates with seasonal, delicious fruits like figs, passion fruit and, of course, papayas. Lin’s creative plates are fun enough to look at, but even more fun to eat. I dig the Vietnamese Crepe (vegetarian or with pork & shrimp), Papaya Salad, and for cardamom and daal (lentil) lovers, I recommend the unusual Bunny Chao, a hefty, hollowed-out loaf of bread (with filling piled neatly on the side) overflowing with green lentils, veggies and cardamom-pods. Amen and hallelujah!

•  Probably my favorite dishes (at least of the few I was able to try due to 30 minute+ lines) at the madly-packed SF Street Food Festival were Aziza’s.  Their “Bite”, a Squid Salad ($3) with maras pepper, preserved lemon, cabbage, mint and cilantro, was explosively bright, and their “Forks & Fingers” main dish, a Moroccan “Taco” ($8), was a thick, grilled flatbread drizzled with harissa, filled with yogurt and veggies – or lamb, if you so desired. Yum.

SAVORY – SEAFOOD

•  The trek down to Mountain View provides something we don’t see a lot of in SF, despite our excellent Tenderloin ‘curry houses’: upscale, creative Indian food with cocktails (yes, Amber attempts this). New Sakoon is sleekly designed, with upstairs lounge and striking fiber-optic light fixtures oozing a magical glow. I’m partial to the Kerela Fish Curry ($18), a finely cooked sea bass with shrimp and scallops joining in, covered in creamy coconut curry sauce. It partners well with The Mistress of Spice cocktail ($8): Cuervo Traditional tequila, Rhum Clement Creole Shrubb, 5-spiced mango nectar, lemon, salt rim. I couldn’t get enough of their Naan – especially Rosemary Pesto.

•  Since it opened, I’ve had a problem with the overpricing at Nettie’s Crab Shack, much as I adore the bright, New England-meets-California decor. In a recent re-visit, I found a more affordable way to eat here than $17 Fish & Chips or $36 Lobster Rolls (ouch! Even in NYC, mid-20′s is the highest I paid for the best I’ve ever had at Pearl’s Oyster Bar). I started with Blueberry Skillet Cornbread in maple syrup ($5 for two big pieces), four juicy Gulf Prawns on a skewer ($10), a lovely Halibut Fish Taco ($5) and a perfectly grilled Sardine ($4). Four items for the cost of one of the main dish highlights. The outdoor grill gets going at noon and with a $7 Boston Swizzle (bourbon & lemon in a frosty, julep-like cup), it’s a pleasant lunch.

•  Jai Yun is a Chinatown classic known for its multi-course, Chinese feasts - starting at $55 a person. Those dinners add up but a cheaper alternative is try it at lunch on a weekday where a mere $18 gets you five starter tastes (pickled vegetables, ginger and other delights) and 6 dishes, many of which are served as part of the dinners. I’m such a fan of being able to taste many things, rather than being limited to one or two, and this lunch delivered. My favorite was an Octopus Salad, punchy with chilis and a flavorful broth.

SWEET

•  I recommend brand new Starbelly (from owners of wildly successful Beretta), because new opening kinks and all, it’s already an ideal urban comfort food spot with fine beers on tap, gracious service and reasonably-priced gourmet goods (hello, Corn with mascarpone & garlic!) A first go-round at Starbelly led me to a finale that topped it all: Warm Strawberry & Fig Crumble ($7) with my beloved Humprhy Slocombe’s balsamic-caramel ice cream. 

•  Summer (and ANY time) is the right time for ice cream and Tara’s is a happy addition to the Bay Area, established in Sante Fe but moved to Berkeley last year. Thankfully, there’s an SF option now as well as the Berkeley shop – you can get Tara’s at the daily Island Earth Farmer’s Market inside the Metreon. Not only are Tara’s ice creams unique, full of flavor and organic, but the staff have excellent pairing suggestions – flavors you might think wouldn’t go together, end up making wonderful partners. Why not try Basil and Banana?  Sweet Corn and Sage? Black Sesame stands strong alone. Ask them.

•  Not being a cream puff lover, it says a lot when one wins me over… I tried a few at new Pacific Puffs, but my ‘hats off’ to the Classic ($3.25), oozing vanilla custard, crowned with chocolate. From the owners’ long-held family recipe, it does them proud.

CIOCCOLATA DI VINO
1801 Shattuck Avenue, Suite C
Berkeley, CA 94709
510-898-1392
www.cioccolatadivino.com

Open just a few months now, I’ve been eager to try this dessert-focused spot, ever wishing there were more options for post-dinner imbibements. Berkeley’s Cioccolata di Vino does have a Savory antipasti menu with some pleasing-looking Italian plates, but I’m not going for that… I want the namesake chocolate and wine experience.

Candlelit, playing a mixture of classic jazz (Ella, my Ella!), world music and even oldies, the space is soothing immediately, as are the sweet servers, if not exactly the occasional large groups that pass through (I was given the option to move if the large group was too noisy). But most moments were quiet, and to while a couple hours with a close friend in deep conversation over vino, dessert, candlelight and jazz, is magic.

Unless you hate chocolate (who are you?!), you probably shouldn’t go without ordering the Torta al Cioccolato Liquefatto ($6.95) – yes, it’s basically warm, molten lava cake, something you can get a lot of places, but this is a dense, dark, squeal-inducing version, and unlike other restaurants, you can feel free to come solely for this dish.

Equally squeal-inducing, the hot chocolate, of which I am a picky customer (MUST be dark, rich, not watered-down in any way), did not disappointment. I was particularly warmed by the Cinnamon and Spice ($3.50) version (there’s also a Sweet Vanilla, Hot Cha Chai, and straight up Cioccolato Caldo). Thankfully not sweet, it’s rich without being heavy and appropriately spiced. Ooh, la la.

And what about vino? In a thoughtful, reasonably-priced selection of bubbly, whites, reds, and what they call “stickies”, basically dessert wine, I find the 2006 Orange Muscat from Margaret’s Vineyard/ Robert Hall, Paso Robles ($5 glass/$42.75 bottle) is one you can’t go wrong pairing with chocolate. Clear and light, there’s spice on the nose and hints of orange blossom and tropical fruit to taste.

Best of all was the White Port from Bodega Bay Port Works, Kenwood ($8 glass/$48 bottle), a late harvest Chardonnay that hints of honey on the nose but has such strong, nutty flavors that send me into ecstasy when sipped along with the Torta al Cioccolato.

Good news: it’s open all day (from 11am on) so you can come in for hot chocolate and pastries, blissfully securing a buzz from chocolate instead of coffee.