NEW YORK CITY COFFEE

In a world-class city like New York, I’ve always been shocked that a proper coffee, whether it be straight-up cup, a cappuccino or espresso, is in such short order, especially given the Italian influence on the town. From that Italian perspective, coffee is as crucial to daily life as wine and one would not dream of serving Folgers or Sanka (!), which, even local friends have told me they’ve seen being used in fancy espresso machines at fine dining NY restaurants… for $6 a cup. For shame.

My hunt in years past for a proper NY coffee was essentially a fruitless effort. When dining at Mario Batali restaurants, like Lupa, I’d ask what kind of coffee they used after being burned so many times, and they were offended I’d even ask. I’m not quibbling as to why quality coffee is not the general standard here, like it is on the West Coast, but more why it’s been nearly non-existent in a city of such size and culinary magnitude, rife with gourmands and Italians… it shouldn’t be this hard. Thankfully, times, they are a changin’… and Brooklyn, no surprise, is at the forefront. I’ll have to save Brooklyn coffee explorations for my next visit.

Now that our own long-time standard, Blue Bottle, made it’s way to Brooklyn a few months ago, and Stumptown opened in the Flatiron District (now one of Manhattan’s best coffee stops), there’s finally a decent cup to be found. But what about locally originated shops? It was interesting that in roaming Manhattan, visiting eight of the most acclaimed coffee spots, only half were actually great. But four is a success compared to past years when the now-defunct East Village Simon Sips was the finer cup I’d had in NY, and recommendations to local favorites like Grey Dog Coffee and Jack’s yielded welcome neighborhood cafes but mediocre coffee.

Soho’s La Colombe, a Philadelphia (via Seattle) based coffee company, is a clean, high-ceilinged space with grainy, modern wood and coffee served in Old World tea sets. The appeal of the shop did not cover up the needlessly snooty staff whose cappuccino not only came in an over-sized cup, but was a LATTE, not a cappuccino: milky as heck. Fail.

More promising, was the appropriately small cappuccino at Ninth Street Espresso (I visited the East Village locale), which claims to be the first specialty coffee house in NY since 2001. The hipster staff were laid back and kind… but somehow there was texture to the drink, and not the cream of an appropriately foamed capp, but more a grainy, thick, slightly off-putting texture. On the right track, but not there.

In alphabetical order, here were the best in preparation and taste out of the eight in my explorations. These are the ones most in line with Italian-quality robustness, balanced bitterness, and, when it comes to the cappuccinos, proper ratios of milk and espresso with at least decent foam.

ABRACO, East Village – Locals and Bay Area friends alike, have told me since it’s 2007 opening that Abraco is the one single great cup in Manhattan. I’d agree it’s up there. In a postcard-sized East Village shop, the cappuccinos are the quality and preparation I’m used to. No surprise that one of Abraco’s founding partners and baristas, Jamie McCormick, lived in the Bay Area 10 years working at Oliveto and, you guessed it, Blue Bottle. Partner and chef, Elizabeth Quijada, also has a Bay Area history, where she met McCormick. They make a beautiful cup.

BIRCH COFFEE, Flatiron – This quirky, lovable shop inside the funky, beckoning Gershwin Hotel, has a thrift store feel in the upstairs library, free wi-fi, their own fair trade beans, and most importantly, a lovely espresso and strong coffee.

BLUEBIRD COFFEE SHOP, East Village – Though I knew my old NY coffee stomping grounds, Simon Sips, had closed, I inadvertently wandered back to where it was housed to find it had turned into Bluebird, utilizing the same charming, brick-walled space filled with locals enjoying cozy conversation over coffee. The espresso borders on too bitter, but overall, they do a fine job, are quite friendly and the shop is a welcome addition using Counter Culture coffee.

RBC COFFEE, Tribeca – I trekked from Midtown to Tribeca on a rainy weekday during rush hour commute for coffee at this high-ceilinged shop, replete with a shiny, costly Slayer machine. I feared going out of my way for this would be a letdown, like so many others, but it was not. In fact, both their espresso and cappuccino are just what that doctor (or coffee lover) ordered. RBC and Abraco are now my top two coffee recommends (along with the impeccable Stumptown) in Manhattan.

*** Check out the current June 2010 issue of Vogue magazine for Jeffrey Steingarten’s article on coffee, including a few I’ve mentioned here (I recommend his books, too). I read the article after my trip but enjoyed the focus on actual cups of coffee and tasting profiles vs. espresso and other coffee drinks.

CHICAGO

Back to Chicago… neighborhood by neighborhood, in a multi-part series, I’ve been covering some haunts during my last visit. Here’s my three previous columns on Chi-town.

NORTHWEST SIDE

Hot Doug’s – So much has already been said about this fairly recent addition to the Chicago dog landscape. I thankfully got to try about 8 dogs here and they were all awesome, though specials change regularly. And they can be wild. Even if you don’t want foie gras on your dog (I did: Foie Gras/Sauternes Duck Sausage is topped with foie gras mousse, truffle aioli, fleur de sel – $9), there’s something for literally everyone. I’m itching to try a new addition to the menu: Jack Daniels/Fennel-smoked Pork Sausage with roasted yellow pepper anchovy sauce, hickory-smoked sweet Swiss cheese – $7.50).  

These are goopy, loaded, all-American dogs, not gourmet chi-chi or even European-style sausages, despite some of the ingredients. Whether going international (Spicy Thai Chicken Sausage with Sriracha mustard/seaweed-sesame salad – $7.50), humorous (The Salma Hayek – $4, a “mighty, mighty, mighty hot!” Andouille Sausage, formerly the Madonna, the Raquel Welch, the Ann-Margret…), or straight-up traditional (The Dog – $1.75), the price is reasonable and Doug himself, a welcoming guy… cheerfully patient with the crowds swarming his place.

Hot Doug’s exemplifies what Chicago’s about. Oh, be aware that by 11:30am, even on a weekday, you’ll already be waiting at least 30 minutes to get in. Good thing I made friends with locals in line. And it’s much further out than you think it’s going to be, nowhere near the El. Take a cab or drive.

LINCOLN SQUARE

Nhu Lan Bakery – One of the better Bahn Mi’s ($3.25) I’ve had comes in house-baked French rolls (it was a pleasure watching them brush butter over rolls as they slid them into the oven) at this non-descript hole-in-the-wall (note: that charming, European-looking structure on their website is NOT their building!) I took the El way north to the Lincoln Square area solely for the purpose of trying these babies which intrigued me from a mention in Time Out Chicago. The area is more suburban-looking, with lawns for everyone. And the area is lucky to have such a tasty, cheap meal.

ANDERSONVILLE

Ann Sather’s famed cinnamon rolls disappoint me, lard-heavy and what exemplified incredible baked goods in the 1970’s but don’t hold up quite as well now… but Andersonville is one of my favorite Chicago ‘hoods. With a Swedish and Norwegian spirit, the family vibe and charming, cafe and shop-lined street recalls my  longtime home of Noe Valley here in SF. But there’s other influences present, characterized in humble spots like Middle East Bakery & Grocery with tasty warm, mini pies (tried Spinach & Feta and Artichoke & Syrian Cheese – $1.75).

•  The Coffee Studio – Probably the best cup of coffee I’ve had in Chicago, it’s Intelligentsia Coffee, which I’ve had prepared well numerous places both in its native Chicago and LA. Coffee Studio does their espressos right with a knock-you-over strength and fine crema on top. It’s housed in a modern, brick-walled storefront next to charming antique and vintage decor shops.

•  m. henry – This place is darling, if there ever was a proper time to use the word: an old country storefront modernized with ’shabby chic’ white wood pieces and gold, lower-case lettering. The back patio is funky, playful and welcoming. The food, however, despite raves as best brunch spot in many circles, is just alright.

It’s definitely a good brunch but upon ordering uber-popular Blackberry Bliss Cakes ($8.95), I suffered sugar-overload from drenched hotcakes in blackberry syrup and vanilla mascarpone cream. I wanted more of that brown sugar oat crust and less of the sopping mess my bottom pancake turned out to be (as my photo clearly displays). Jorge’s Black Bean Cakes & Eggs ($8.75) are decent, with chipotle sour cream, but not particularly memorable. It’s all about the setting.

BUCKTOWN

I stayed in a friend’s incredible loft right in the heart of trendy, hip Bucktown, a mere two blocks from Violet Hour. Disappointment came with mediocre sushi at Coast, and at Rodan, an Asian bistro/bar that intrigued with a brunch menu offering the likes of beignets with Vietnamese coffee (the first bland, the latter lukewarm, too sweet, inauthentic). What I did love at Rodan, however, was a big screen on the back wall playing jazz/big band “music videos” – nice to chill to Ellington as you’re waking up. Too bad the food doesn’t keep up. Sultan’s Market was an affordable little falafel shop and Middle Eastern deli in the ‘hood. Here were my favorites in Bucktown:

•  Violet Hour – The majority of cocktail raves in the city of Chicago center around this refined but youthful bar (refined but for weekend crowds descending rowdy and obnoxious from Illinois or Wisconsin suburbs). It certainly ushered Chicago into the artisanal, classic cocktail realm, though bars like this exist by the dozens in NY or even SF. I find fewer in Chicago of this caliber.

I visited Violet Hour a couple times (love the name, from a dreamy Bernard DeVoto quote found prominently on their home page). The first was a Friday night with annoyingly long wait, a doorman who let a group of shouting girls who looked about 18 and seemed wasted already, enter ahead of a long line of patient twosomes. Not was I was hoping for at supposedly a classy, cocktailians hang-out. Had it become too popular for its own good? Yes, is one answer to that question. Once we finally entered the graffiti-ed, signless door, we enjoyed our cocktails but Violet Hour fell well below my favorite Chi-town cocktail haven, The Drawing Room.

Thankfully I returned to Violet Hour, for a quiet couple hours at the bar on a Sunday at 5pm. What a difference! I made friends with those sitting next to me, fellow lovers of good food, drink, cities and unexpectedly, literature and poetry. I savored stimulating conversation paired with excellent drink and service… Stephen Cole was a top-notch bartender.

Generally around $12, my first visit entailed Zarzamora, Wild Turkey 101, Fernet, blackberries, house orange bitters, and Hush & Wonder, a refreshing blast of Matusalem rum, lime, Creme de Violette, grapefruit. It was better the second time around when I let the bartender choose. My favorite was a layered  but unfussy mix of Green Chartreuse, Peychaud, Angostura, lemon, lime, pineapple, Velvet Falernum, fresh mint – herbaceous, grassy, fresh. In tribute to my home, he served a Manhattan with Fernet (SF has long been the highest consumer of this bitter Italian digestif), Carpano, Luxardo cherries.

After this visit, I could warrant the fuss more. It’s still not my favorite bar in the country by any means, but I’m glad I got to experience the skill of its bartenders and the savvy of its regulars. Just go early…

•  Hot Chocolate – I went for a decadent three-course dessert one night and fell in love. The place is bustling, youthful, but noisy and crowded for my tastes. All was forgotten when I took my first bite of a Dark Chocolate Souffle Tart ($11) with salted caramel ice cream and pretzels. Salty/sweet perfection. Try to finish a sensual, lush dark Hot Chocolate ($6 – with a hint of caramel, or available in white or milk chocolate, with espresso, Mexican chocolate style or over ice – something for everyone!)

A Stout Caramel Milkshake ($6) with cookies mixed the malty taste of stout with ever-present caramel. Divine decadence all around. You’ll see why owner, Mindy Segal, has won multiple Outstanding Pastry Chef nominations at the James Beard Awards.

•  Miko’s Italian Ice – This guy rocks, sitting alone at a humble little window off a tree-lined street, scooping up ice flavors of the day.

I visited three of Chicago’s popular Italian ice spots this last trip but Miko’s was by far my favorite.

A tart, simple Lemon reminds me of East Coast Italian ices and Banana with Chocolate Chips is just fun.

This issue’s Top Tastes in DRINK

BEER

•  Attending a media-only Sam Adams Utopias dinner was a real treat at Monk’s Kettle on 11/19. Monk’s chef, Kevin Kroger, created a four course dinner of luxurious comfort food, each course paired (and some cooked) with a Sam Adams brew. I must digress to food for a moment: medium rare, ultra-tender Beef Tenderloin Tournedos in classic green peppercorn sauce, were nearly overshadowed by an unforgettable side: Sage Bread Pudding, crispy outside, moist and dense within. Some of us attendees are still emailing about it.

As for the beers, we were treated to seven, with commentary from Sam Adams brewer, Bert Boyce, direct from Boston, who mingled with us, talking beer and the coasts (East & West, that is) over dinner. I’ve had Coastal Wheat, Old Fezziwig Ale and classic Boston Lager before, but we also drank an intense, velvety Double Bock highlighting the purity of malted barley. Then, a rare, beauteous 1994 Triple Bock (17% ABV) with toffee, maple, oak notes, ending with the evening’s centerpiece: Utopias, the world’s strongest beer at 27% ABV. I’ll say, as many others already have, this tastes nothing like beer. It’s caramely, unique, rich – brewed like a beer, though not carbonated, more reminiscent of a fine sherry or port. Ruby black in color, at a few hundred bucks a bottle, it may not make it onto all our shelves, but I’d crave it after any dinner… or for dessert. Sam Adams founder and brewer, Jim Koch, says he wanted “to elevate people’s thinking about beer and to push the boundaries of traditional brewing in order to offer beer lovers an inspired drinking experience“. I would say he has…

COFFEE

•  I’ve been indulging more than once lately in Coffee Bar’s El Diablo.  The smooth mix of espresso, chipotle-infused milk, Guittard Chocolate, rocks my mornings with a subtle heat.

WINE

•  I move from food at the Inspirations of Tuscany dinner at Luce, to the wines… with Frescobaldi estates executive chef behind the stove, what better pairing than Frescobaldi wines? Each ranged from fine to superb, whether a bright, layered 2007 Benefizio or the subtle spice of Nipozzano Riserva Chianti Classico. Forced to choose, my favorites are a 2006 Attems Cicinis, a full-bodied white blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Bianco and Tocai Friulano grapes; and on the red side, a ‘99 Luce from Montalcino (I love that idyllic Tuscan village), velvety, tannin-heavy, and well integrated with 50% Merlot/50% Sangiovese.

SPIRITS

•  The first annual Indy Spirits Expo was held at Mighty on 11/19 and though I had to miss the VIP hour due to a prior event (sigh), finding the place way too packed and party-like by the time I arrived, I’m pleased at a spirits event showcasing only small batch, high quality artisanal spirits.

A few were represented I’m already a fan of, like North Shore Distillery in Chicago, and nearby Hangar One and Germain-Robin. Unexpected discoveries came in the form of J. Witty Spirits’ organic Chamomile Liqueur, served by the gracious Jill Witty (founder) herself. It’s even better than it sounds, both straight and in a cocktail. Lightly sweet, aromas of allspice precede a balanced mix of apples, clove, honey, with floral, spiced notes. A number of our fine establishments around town sell or serve it (here’s a list).

I took to the complexity of Corrido’s Extra Anejo, a tequila triple-aged in three types of barrels for a minimum of three years. Vanilla, white pepper, even sour cherry notes, hit my tongue, and the layers keep unfolding.

This issue’s Top Tastes in DRINK

Jalisco Flip at Rickhouse

COCKTAILS

• Rickhouse had my number from the get-go. How could it not? From owners of my regular stop over the years, Bourbon & Branch (sans password and reservation) and nearby Cask, this FiDi beauty debuted on July 1st to a packed house, with atmospheric, Old World space (ceilings and railings made from old Bourbon barrels, naturally), and gracious staff and bartenders. I want to cheer just leafing through the awesome menu (visually and in selection) of flips, fizzes, punches (punch bowls for groups), every kind of cocktail one could desire. Stand-outs? Besides being delighted to see the Favala, which I loved as a Bourbon & Branch special (check out “Drinks” in my last Top Tastes), after tasting eight different Rickhouse cocktails so far, my tops are a Rye Maple Fizz ($9) with rye, lemon, organic maple syrup, egg white, Angostura bitters and soda, and a Jalisco Flip ($12), a dessert-like (but not heavy-handed) blend of El Tesoro Anjeo, egg, organic maple syrup, aromatic bitters, freshly grated nutmeg. It’ll  surely be a pleasurable pursuit working my way through this menu (more in my SFBG Appetite column).

• I can’t say happy hour crowds and haphazard, if well-intentioned, service at Oakland’s new Penelope does much for me (currently only open weekdays), but the food is gourmet and mostly under $10 (paninis, salads and soup), with drinks using an interesting mix of fruits and veggies, like the namesake Penelope with tequila, beets, apples, pears. Though not as nuanced as my favorite cocktails, I enjoyed the refreshing heat of a Jicama Reposado ($9) with fresh jicama, habanero-infused reposado, salt rim and cucumber rinse.

• Clock Bar is always a classy experience, from chic, candlelit setting to drink creations from master behind the bar, Marco Dionysos. One of Marco’s greats, which I should have tried well before now but just got to is Snap: Canton ginger liqueur, Hennessey, lime, pineapple, allspice dram. It’s fresh and Fall-like, while redolent with island breezes. Amazing.

CHAMPAGNE

• A bottle of champagne from family-run Ployez-Jacquemart in Ludes, France, is biscuity, bright and earthy all at the same time. I felt lucky to be able to drink a bottle of small batch vintage.

COFFEE

• There’s yet another great coffee house on the way: but for now, Sightglass is our newest source for fine espressos, cappuccinos, coffees out of a garage in its soon-to-open space. I miss Four Barrel’s humble alley service before its slick cafe took over and will eventually have to miss Sightglass‘ friendly garage service.  But there’s much to look forward to when they do open: brothers, Jerad and Justin Morrison’s backgrounds include working with Blue Bottle and Four Barrel, and the open 1924 space will have a Chemex brewing station and a cupping table so us coffee fanatics can ‘geek out’ even further.

• More to come on my new Middle Eastern favorite from YaYa chef, Yahya Salih. It’s called Jannah and on the drink tip alone, the unusual fruit juices and coffees are worth a stop. I’ll focus on coffee for now: though there’s regular and Turkish, my choice is the Arabic Coffee ($2), aromatic with cardamom, the sludge at the bottom a soft mix of almost chocolaty espresso grounds, not overpowering as in some Turkish coffees I’ve had. I ate it with a spoon. As you can see from my photo, a book and an Arabic coffee equal a contented afternoon.

SAVORY – VEGETARIAN

• There are a number of Burmese gems in SF (see last month’s Top Tastes), but I’ve been getting my lunch lately at a little alley Burmese restaurant that’s quite tasty: Yellow Pa Taut. Traditional Tea Leaf or Ginger Salad ($9.95 each) are treated well here (ask for the Ginger Salad without dried shrimps if you’re a vegetarian). Some curries are a little oily, but savory and filling, with lots of fluffy rice.

• You wouldn’t expect culinary adventure in a nightclub, would you? I sure didn’t, which is why Brian Beach’s (formerly at Aqua and Cosmopolitan) recently launched menu at Infusion Lounge is a pleasant surprise. “Whimsical” ($9) is technically not vegetarian since the ice cream is made with bacon, but there’s no actual meat in this daring, well-executed dish: 63-degree egg with bacon ice cream, chive and sourdough toasts. The cream of the egg and ice cream meld into one savory, lush mix. Paired with a peppery Santa Carolina Carmenere from Chile ($7 a

glass), a smoky essence explodes. I felt like I was having breakfast… or maybe BBQ (see “Seafood” for another great dish.)

• 54 Mint, helmed by New York’s Il Buco chef, now an SF transplant, serves up some filling Italian fare. I love the delicate Octopus Carpaccio ($10) and was comfortingly filled by Arancina di Carne ($10 – rice ball stuffed with ragout), but it was the Caponata ($8), eggplant ratatouille with sweet, grilled peppers and onions, that lingered with me.

• Flour+Water may be yet another artisan pizza, pasta, charcuterie spot, but I still found worthwhile tastes, even if there are better pizzas around town (theirs still works, especially the Uovo/egg pizza, $15). There’s a bright, fresh Summer Squash Salad ($10) with duck prosciutto, toasted pistachio and vibrant basil leaves. I was especially struck by Sweet Pea & Ricotta Tortelli ($16) enlivened by mint, Meyer lemon and pig cracklings for some crisp (vegetarians, ask for it without the latter). PS – Kudos to the Paxton Gate-like bathroom display from Paxton’s designer, Sean Quigley.

SAVORY – MEAT

• In the wood and brass bar area of Grand Cafe, happy hour is a pleasure with a glass of wine or a cocktail (like Elphaba’s Wicked Emerald-tini: Hendrick’s Gin, Ciroc Vodka, St. Germain Elderflower, basil, cucumber, lemongrass syrup, $10 or $6 at happy hour… one of three inspired by “Wicked” at nearby Orpheum). Gougere d’ Escargots ($9), essentially escargot sliders in Chartreuse-garlic-parsley butter, go down like juicy jewels on puff pastry.

•  Little Skillet has been a good time from day one. How can I resist chicken & waffles from an alley walk-up window? They just went up a notch in my book by feeding my love of Cheese Grits with or without Andouille Sausage (with, thank you very much!) With maple syrup mixed in, there’s a hint of sweet to the savory, smooth cup o’ grits.

• Yes, Korean tacos and burritos risk getting played-out, but not yet in our city – and in an internet cafe? Slipping into Golden Gate Perk for a Spicy Pork Taco ($3) doused in lime is transporting – feels like I’m 23 and backpacking alone through Europe again… minus the Korean tacos. Low ceilings, top-40 hip hop playing (rock on, Kanye’s “Amazing“), sweet Korean owners, and European clientele checking email. But the best part is that these are damn good tacos – an ideal balance of meat and kimchi.

• On opening day lunch at new gourmet BBQ haven in FiDi, Wexler’s, I dug the minimalist, European-bistro reminiscent space, draft beer list (Allegash, Ommegang, hooray!) and uber-fresh Monterey Bay Squid Salad ($9) with chunks of fried green tomato (yeah!), pickled Fresno chilis and frisee. The 4505 Meats Mission Dog ($11) with bacon works (wanted it wrapped in bacon instead of bacon chunks), but I could just keep eating the “Sloppy Joe” ($12). Despite being engulfed in Acme bread, it was loaded with savory, tender Texas-style burnt ends, considered a delicacy as choice cuts of brisket. Read more in my SF Bay Guardian Appetite column.

SAVORY – SEAFOOD

• “Transcendence” ($13) is just that at Infusion Lounge. A thrill of a take on a BLT, with the flavor profile of a BLT but one creative path to get there! Hiramasa (yellowtail kingfish) is splayed out sashimi-style, tomato gelee to the side, topped with a frozen sorbet scoop of, yes, iceberg lettuce and pea shoots. The plate is streaked with Wasabi mayo, dusted with bacon powder. Brian Beach’s possibility and passion show in these kinds of dishes… and it happens at a nightclub (see “Vegetarian” for his Whimsical egg dish). Slip in post-work during happy hour (till 8pm with discounted drinks) for the unexpected.

• A Sunday afternoon at FISH is always idyllic. Seafood at picnic tables, sittin’ on the docks as houseboats squeak in the water, sipping beer from a mason jar. The good life (albeit at a price – sandwiches are $25, y’all! But portions are huge, so share!) On a radiant blue Sunday, I blissfully ordered Monterey Sardines ($14) from the specials board – plump, with lemon squeezed over them, their silver grilled skins shimmering in the sun atop a huge salad.

SWEET

• At Supperclub’s rousing Uber Dinner II on June 1, Jamie Lauren (Absinthe, Top Chef) and Jennie Lorenzo (Fifth Floor), prepared a one-night only 4-course feast with Guus Wickenhagen, Supperclub’s Exec Chef. Besides being one sensual experience of show, massage, food, drink, lounging, music, dance, it was fun to see what each chef created, my dessert rave for the night being Lorenzo’s Black Licorice Candy Parfait with strawberries. Tasted like an absinthe and berries cream – exquisite! Once the sparkling, blue bunny came out and the place erupted into a spontaneous dance party, it officially became a Monday night to remember.

DRINK

• Oh, boy. Coffee at darling, closet-sized Farm: Table is one non-stop joy. From a Tendernob (their version of a Gibraltar and ode to the ‘hood) to a bitter, strong espresso, it’s all beautiful, using Verve Coffee Roasters from Santa Cruz. Paired with apricot bread pudding or grapefruit bread as you sit in the picturesque window or sidewalk tables, feels like the best of a European lifestyle.

• Two vinos I especially enjoyed at Flour+Water are Anselmi’s San Vicenzo from Veneto ($7 glass/$28 bottle), a bright garganega white with hints of peach and nuts. A 2004 Di Bruno Sangiovese from Santa Barbara’s Stolpman Vineyard ($11.50 glass/$45 bottle) is smooth with smoky, cherry notes.

• Domaine Chandon hosted a fabulous Art of the Cocktail party on June 4 with DJ Dukes playing the tunes we all want to dance to (morphed into quite the dance party, let me tell you!) on Chandon’s scenic open-air tasting room and back patio.  NOPA’s Neyah White was the perfect guest bartender creating champagne cocktails using Chandon’s sparkling wines. A number of highlights, my top taste was his cardamom-infused cocktail. Sparkling wine, cocktail attire and great music under the stars makes for a truly magical Napa Summer evening. Join me at the next one?

As always, a taste-rich month in my city. Visited old favorites like Tommy’s for champion margaritas, Little Delhi’s savory Indian in the Tenderloin (glad they now have chaat on the menu), brunch and cocktails at classy, retro Presidio Social Club, hit-the-spot cheeseburgers at Sam’s, and Pho Ga at Turtle Tower. Then there’s new spots that didn’t quite grab me upon first visit: I dig Outerlands‘ woodsy, rustic charm, accepting vibe and staff, and daily fresh concept, but found the food a little bland; Mission’s The Corner is a cool spot to linger over a book, and such friendly staff, but my lunch sandwiches were, again, bland – I prefer their breakfast of coffee cake and Four Barrel coffee; The Tipsy Pig, despite great bar food and drinks, heady library room and casual back patio, is ruined by the literally screaming din of Marina-ites out to play (maybe when they’re open all day one can find a quiet hour?) Now for some favorites this month:

BREAKFAST

•    I couldn’t be happier about my fave Italian restaurant starting Sunday brunch. The menu walks the line of Incanto classics (like Rustic Pork Ragu), Chef Chris Cosentino’s fantastic Boccalone meats and hearty egg dishes. I’d trust the “Butcher’s Treat”, which changes weekly (c’mon – be adventurous!) Three slices of hearty Beef Tongue was a recent “treat” ($15) served with perfectly poached eggs, piquant salsa verde and buttery grilled bread (Chris is the offal master). A crowd-pleaser is surely the amazing Milk Toast ($9), like French toast without the “eggy” factor, soaked and plumped-up in raisin juice, citrus peel and mascarpone.

•    Got out to the recently oft-blogged-about Trouble Coffee (a couple blocks from the ocean in the Sunset) for a triple-threat breakfast of Cinnamon toast, Coconut and Coffee ($7). Toast is buttery and thick, accented by the fresh simplicity of juice straight out of a coconut, but the local coffee was a letdown for me. Watery and flavorless, I could barely drink half of it (strong and robust for me, thank you). Three cheers for funky garage sale decor in this closet-sized space and for the playful breakfast idea. Too bad about the coffee.

SAVORY – VEGETARIAN

•    Midi just opened in the former FiDi Perry’s space, two levels devoted to chic Pan-Asian food with Cali/Euro flair. Cocktails are surprisingly good with housemade syrups aplenty. I found the Fava Bean & English Pea Puree Sandwich ($13) with shaved gruyère and lemon oil, a refreshing lunch.

SAVORY – SEAFOOD

•    Still in its soft-opening run in showpiece Frisson space (the retro-riffic dome of that former interior intact), A5 Steak Lounge’s food is surprisingly better than I expected given the lax attitude in service and clientele. I like the option of a small 7 oz. cut of NY steak ($15), though you can upgrade to 8 oz. Kobe for $29. A generous Mac ‘n Cheese side ($7) is cheesy, piping hot, covered in bread crumbs. Common as it sounded, my fave may have been the Crab Salad ($12) – fresh crab meat with avocado, blood oranges, mache and what tasted like pomegranate drizzle.

SAVORY – MEAT

•    I’m lucky to work near Dogpatch’s covert garage/ weekday lunch outfit (getting quite the buzz in less than two weeks of opening), Kitchenette, as one visit already has me craving more. With daily changing menu, here’s hoping I’ll again see the perfect Bahn Mi-like sandwich of Beer Tangerine roasted Berkshire Pork ($8) with cilantro, jalapeno, cabbage and a side of macaroni salad. Paired with tart Meyer Lemon/Tangerine/ Blood Orange juice of the day ($2)… watch out!

•    Mission’s bright new hole-in-the-wall, La Oaxaquena, is a Mexican bakery and eatery serving a range of Oaxacan specialties like tlayudas (a crispy flatbread covered with everything from beans to meat), spiced Oaxacan Hot Chocolate ($1.35), and Chicken Mole Enchiladas ($8.50). The latter is two enchiladas, beans and rice, with tender, shredded chicken, cooked to perfection in a downright addictive chocolate mole sauce that’s balanced with spices.

•    Cortez is often forgotten or underrated in my estimation. Yes, portions are sometimes small and pricey, but over the years, even with a chef change, I find it a place of consistent quality and taste married to creativity. Daily changing soup shots are winners, desserts some of the best in town and plates like Shrimps a la Plancha are richly satisfying. Despite the overabundance of Pork Belly on menus these days, I rave about Cortez‘ version ($16) accented with tart Rhubarb slices, a little frisee and Honey-Mustard emulsion.

DRINK

•    Pirate Cat Radio has a Bacon Maple Latte ($5) I won’t soon forget (can’t spend that much on coffee on a regular basis!) Adding African cayenne? Shot it to the stratosphere. My day couldn’t help but be right after that savory breakfast dream of a drink. Now for a side of scrambled eggs.

•    On a weeknight at Heaven’s Dog (which I only recommend for cocktails from the all-star bartender lineup), I took a Whiskey Freedom from Choice (bartender’s discretion – you choose the spirit), as pro, Jackie Patterson, shook up two lovely versions of the brown stuff in herbal, then citrus form. My latest choice on the regular menu is a 1932 recipe of Tiger’s Milk No. II, a frothy blend of Spanish brandy, rum, sugar, cream and nutmeg. That’s what I call a nightcap.

•   At Nirvino’s Mixology Contest at Tres Agaves on 3/31, Josh Harris, of newly re-opened/refreshed 15 Romolo, made my favorite creation of the night, which thankfully won: “Eye in the Sky“, Cielo Blanco Tequila, Yellow Chartreuse, Velvet Falernum, fresh lime and pineapple, Peychauds, topped with fresh grated nutmeg and a spanked sage leaf!

•    Bourbon and Branch has become quite my regular spot over the years and I await each new seasonal menu with expectation. Spring debuted last week with highlights being Joel Baker’s balanced beauty, Pear Sonata (Old Tom Gin, Elderflower Liqueur, Pear Eau de Vie, Dry Vermouth, Lemon, Pear-Elderflower Foam) and Ian Scalzo’s crazy, smoky Mariachi (Mezcal, Yellow Chartreuse, Cointreau, Lemon, Orange Bitters). But the best drink at B&B this March was a St. Patty’s Day-only special (again, from the brilliant Joel Baker): Finnegan’s Wake ($12), a savory, creamy dessert of Bacon Rasher-infused Black Bush Irish Whiskey, turbinado syrup (turbinated sugar made from sugar cane extract), egg white, Bitter Truth aromatic bitters with a bacon-redolent skewer of baked beans. All I can say is, Wow… please be a permanent fixture! Honorable mention goes to to Martin Cate’s Port Light (bourbon, passion fruit, honey), of my beloved Forbidden Island Tiki Lounge, who was mixing it up for B&B’s “Tropics in the Tenderloin” party the last two nights!