WEAVER’S COFFEE, San Rafael

Weaver’s Coffee: if you aren’t drinking it, you should be.

Based in San Rafael, Weaver’s has a chill, little shop serving and selling their coffee and teas. The shop fronts their roasting facility and offices, which I had the privilege of touring recently.

John Weaver, master roaster and founder, was Peet’s master roaster for over 20 years, working directly with the late Alfred Peet. He brings a masterful perfection to Weaver’s coffees and teas, with a refined eye and palate for sourcing the best beans internationally. He returns to his roots with Weaver’s (under his parent company, Wild Card Roasters), able to once again create small batch, individualized blends.

During my visit, I sifted through burlap bags of raw beans from many countries, witnessing the different look and feel of each. Watching the roasting process in a massive Probat machine, divine aromas encompass.

Weaver and crew manually and continuously check the beans as they turn from light green/brown tones to a dark, chocolate-ly brown. Similar to craft distilling, they smell and examine beans through various stages to ascertain the exact moment when roasting is complete. It’s an art requiring expertise and timing.

There are many beans to recommend, from the rich, wine notes of Aged Mocha Java (also used in the current batch of St. George’s Firelit Liqueur), to the current special Astral Blend: smooth, sweet, earthy (bonus: purchasing this one supports breast cancer research).

I’ve been drinking Weaver’s since last Fall and it is the best new coffee I’ve had in awhile… as it begins to gain popularity, I’m proud to call it another local great.

**Purchase Weaver’s at Rainbow Grocery and Whole Foods locally, to name a few. Here’s a full listing.

**Drink Weaver’s at Curbside Coffee’s street cart, found at Off the Grid and parked weekdays in SoMa (they also specialize in Vietnamese coffee).

Top Ten Tastes at the 2011 FANCY FOOD SHOW at Moscone Center, 1/16-18

Fancy Food, the largest showcase of specialty foods in North America (held annually in NYC and SF) returned to the Moscone Center. Again I explored thousands of products from around the world, with the limits of my stomach to slow me after hours of sampling.

Fancy Food showcases trends in food, which there’s been much talk of this week already. I didn’t notice many major differences from last year, but saw a welcome increase in spirits vendors (though still merely a handful) and a continued proliferation of healthy, organic, low calorie (therefore sometimes tasteless) products. I was impressed by Teatulia out of Denver and their completely compostable wrappers and packaging. Their clean, 100% organic teas are grown in Bangladesh, subtle but full in flavor. I also took note of Philippe Padovani of Padovani Chocolates’ sultry chocolates, in flavors ranging from Apple Banana Ganache to Lilikoi Soft Caramel.

Here’s my coverage from last year, and my stand-outs this year:

Spirits

Sinai Mezcal – Probably the best taste of the day for this spirits lover was Sinai Mezcal, a tiny, under-the-radar mezcal that, despite tasting numerous brands, is the first to really excite me since Del Maguey. Whether Blanco, Reposado or Anejo, each is smoky, clean with slate and agave. Don’t mind the low budget labels… it’s all in the taste. They need a US distributor (hello, anyone?) At the very least, it should be on the shelf at Tommy’s.

Velho Barreiro - One of the most popular cachaca brands in Brazil, this bright sugarcane spirit tantalized in a well-made Caipirinha but also stood on its own, whether the traditional Velho Barreiro or Gold (aged) version.

Food

La Tourangelle Oils – Based out of Richmond, CA, it’s no surprise these memorable oils are local. La Tourangelle’s peanut, pistachio, sesame, white & black truffle, and avocado oils are superior to average brands, but their latest releases especially wow: Thai Wok Oil exudes lemongrass and basil essences, while Pan Asian Stir Fry Oil is layered with garlic, ginger, fried onion. You can purchase at Whole Foods, Andronico’s and Williams Sonoma, to name a few.

Rumba Dessert’s Ice Creams - I’d seen Rumba before, but had not been able to try as many as I did here. Whether creamy Banana & Cinnamon, tart Passion Fruit ‘Maracuya’ or caramel-y Lucuma (a tropical Peruvian fruit), I appreciate the robust flavor and care evident in these ice creams.  Rumba‘s husband/wife team are delightfully engaging (wife, Laly Protzel is president and creates the recipes, while her husband assists with marketing and business). Find Rumba at Noe Valley Whole Foods and RJ’s Market in the Rincon Center, not to mention around the Bay Area.

Tahitian Gold Vanilla Products – Tahitian Gold is an elegantly-packaged line of vanilla products based out of Torrance, CA. Going the 100% natural route, they use a range of beans to create an intense vanilla bean paste, refined extracts for cooking, Tahitian vanilla sugar and fleur de sel. The look and quality is among the best I’ve seen in the vanilla world.

Glop – Glop may not exactly sound appetizing, but it’s a playful spread of Parmesan and Asiago cheeses, olive oil, garlic, herbs and spices. Another Bay Area-based company, the exciting part is they’re working with one of my very favorite chefs, Aziza’s Mourad Lahlaou, who has created sauces and dips they are hoping to sell further into the year. I especially like Smoky Harissa, Chickpea and Yogurt Herb.

Yarra Valley Dairy’s Marinated Feta – From Australia, Yara Valley Dairy’s creamy, uber-fresh feta pops with herbs. Handmade on the farm, it’s an elegant (and addictive) snack.

Crispy Green & Fruitzio – Usually a long list that includes gluten free, dairy free, vegan, nut free, means I’m not going to like it. In the case of a little bag of freeze-dried fruit from Crispy Green and Fruitzio, I’m pleased at just how edible the product is. Stand-outs were freeze-dried pineapple, banana and kiwi. It’s one of those guiltless snacks that doesn’t compromise flavor. Here’s where to find it.

Coffee

Malabar Gold Supreme from Josuma Coffee Company – Kudos for a shiny, silver espresso machine calling me like a beacon and perfect espresso preparation of Malabar Gold from Josuma, based in Menlo Park. They sell their beans mainly to cafes or restaurants though are seeking retailers. The crema atop their espresso glows a warm, velvet brown, while the flavor awakens you with robust, elegant force.

Caffe Barbera – From Naples, Italy, Caffe Barbera, a fifth generation coffee company since 1870, likewise served a supreme shot from their gold espresso machine.

Top Tastes, rather than a list of all-time favorites (another thing altogether), are among the best eats since my last newsletter, often from new openings. Many don’t make the cut, being a revisit previously written about or simply not as stand-out as dishes mentioned.

A MEAL

CHABAA THAI’S Pork Neck Larb, Inner Sunset – I am transported straight back to my two months roaming the country of Thailand with Chabaa Thai‘s only-in-Thai menu (in addition to their regular menu). The menu has only recently been translated (roughly) into English.

Tasting just like I’ve had it in Thailand, Nam Tok (Pork Neck Larb) with pork skin ($8.75) is impeccably authentic. The pork is meaty, spiced, even tender, while accents of mint, cilantro, red onion, and lime fish sauce keep it lively. Another highlight from the Thai menu is Gaeng  Som, a sour orange curry loaded with fish and shrimp ($10.45) or acacia leaf omelet ($13.45). Gently sour and spicy as hell, the thin broth warms on a cold night.

RINCON PERUANA’s Pescado Frito, Mission - Rincon Peruana is a dingy, 1970′s wood-paneling, postage stamp-sized diner, packed with locals, with friendly vibe and a no-nonsense charm.

Peruvian staff specialize in the meaty, like Lomo Saltado (a Peruvian stir-fry of sautéed Beef, French fries, onions and tomatoes over rice). Their number one seller is fried fish: Pescado Frito ($11.95). It’s plain fried fish over rice and salad, but these boneless fish fillets are surprisingly fresh, with no fishiness, while the gentle heat of a little jalapeno salsa and a squeeze of lemon invigorate.

MAZZAT, Hayes Valley – I left with a nice, garlicky finish from Eggplant Pomegranate Spread (with pita) and fresh Spanakopita at the unassuming corner Middle Eastern cafe, Mazzat. There are wraps and falafel, while most everything is generously portioned and under $10. A relaxing, new addition to the neighborhood.

FIRST KOREAN MARKET’s Kimbap, Outer Richmond - Impressed by the Korean grocery selection squeezed into tiny First Korean Market, a highlight is pre-wrapped Kimbap. Otherwise known as the Korean answer to sushi/maki (something I eat in NY but see less of here), these seaweed rice rolls don’t contain raw fish. Instead, sesame seed-dusted rolls are filled with fish cake, shredded carrots, pickled daikon and rice. But beware the Pajeon (Korean pancakes) – they are quite dry and stale. Stick to the fresher, tasty Kimbap.

BREAKFAST and COFFEE

CAFE PASCUCCI’s Gold Espresso, SoMa – I feel like I’m back in Italy at brand new Caffe Pascucci, the first outpost of a popular Italian chain. The crisp, white space is chic, even as the place buzzes with the Italian families and individuals already filling the place within merely days of opening.

It’s not just because the menu is loaded with dozens of types of espresso, cappuccinos and iced coffees topped with banana or doused with amaretto. It’s because the majority Italian staff and clientele exude convivial Italian spirit, throwing out “ciaos” and “pregos” liberally.

I like the robust Gold Espresso, though Dark Hot Chocolate was a little too pudding-like in consistency, even if thankfully dark (my favorites in Italy or France are syrupy rich, but not stiff). Chad Newton (formerly of Fish & Farm) executes a simple but pleasing menu of salads and sandwiches – even an ultra-basic Tri-Color Salad is three types of greens (including bits of endive), gentle shavings of Parmesan, and a perky lemon dressing.

CONTRABAND COFFEE, Nob Hill - Yet another in the endless flow of Third Wave coffee houses,  brand new Contraband Coffee Bar occupies a less coffee-driven corner of Nob Hill (the Mission and SoMa don’t need more… spread the wealth!)

The space is clean, white, with modern art, and baristas I’ve seen working at other coffee havens around town. They sport a shiny Synesso Hydra espresso machine and also offer V60 pour-over and Chemex preparations for their own roasted beans. Additional kudos for getting the snacks right: Dynamo Donuts and Peasant Pies.

MAGNOLIA BREWERY’S Crispy Pork Belly over grits, Upper Haight - I’ve been to brunch at Magnolia Brewery many-a-time. Merely a few blocks from home, those little black and wood booths welcome with Blue Bottle Coffee and Magnolia’s first-rate beers.

My latest brunch favorite is Chef Matt Kerley’s Crispy Pork Belly ($11), juicy and thick, resting on a bowl of Anson Mills cheddar grits. You already know pork and grits get me every time, but add in a perfectly poached egg and crunchy, fried shallots, and I need nothing else.

BAR AGRICOLE’S Laugenbrötchen, SoMa - The simplicity is appealing. Bar Agricole, previously open for dinner and bar only, shares its soothing garden patio and forward-thinking, urban interior for a Four Barrel coffee and one food item: a pretzel bun, aka Laugenbrötchen, from Mountain View’s German baker par excellence, Esther’s Bakery. Order the pretzel roll with a side of apple butter, jam or cream cheese. Oh, they also have free WiFi and are open all day (from 8am on) until the dinner switchover at 5pm. There are fewer cooler spaces you could linger in.

COCKTAILS

On the cocktail tip, here are a few recent stand-outs:

The Alembic, Upper Haight - Leave it to Louie (Danny, that is) for another beauty: Vasco da Gama is one of his creations last year. A smoky-spiced concoction, it’s lush with Buffalo Trace bourbon, smoky with Caol Ila 12yr scotch (they were out last week so he used Bowmore 15yr in its place), spiced with garam masala apple syrup.

Comstock Saloon, North Beach – It’s a fine night in the time-transporting booths of Comstock when Jonny Raglin is behind the bar. Easy to give in to Barkeep’s Whimsy ($10) and let him make what he will. Sparkling wine tops off one drink, a skewer of cherries another. Veer off the short-but-sweet classics menu at your own gain, though there’s plenty of pleasure in classic mainstays like the Martinez, $12, which they prepare to perfection with Old Tom gin, maraschino liqueur, sweet vermouth and bitters.

Range, The Mission – Under the able hands of bar manager Jeff Lyon, I continue to happily sip from Range’s refreshing cocktails, still going strong five years later.

Oaxaca Lemonade ($10) has Pubelo Viejo tequila as the base, zippy with lemon and ginger, gently sweet with honey, smoky with crema de mezcal. Their DOT (drink of the day) delivers, recently in Eagle Eye Cherry: Eagle Rare bourbon (my go-to affordable bourbon preference),  John Taylor’s velvet falernum, lime, grapefruit.

An off-menu highlight was bartender Ken Furusawa’s Monk’s Elixir: Plymouth Gin, Green Chartreuse, tarragon syrup, lime juice, egg white, and a splash of soda. Frothy, bright and spirituous.

SPIRITS

St George and Firelit Liqueur – I had the privilege of visiting St. George Spirits distillery last week as distillers Jeff Kessinger and Dave Smith began making their third batch of Firelit, the ultimate coffee liqueur. Veering from the Blue Bottle beans in the first two versions, this third batch uses Weaver’s coffee. Weaver’s is a new favorite I’ve been brewing at home the last couple months, launched by John Weaver, known for his decades as Peet’s roaster.

Here are a few photos from my visit as I watched barrels of fresh-ground Weaver’s beans dumped into a massive still, stirred with water while the coffee gained a sumptuous dirt/chocolate look… the smell was invigorating. Alcohol was added as the week progressed, then bottling, and is available for taste and purchase ($50 for 750ml bottle) at the distillery starting this Friday (12/17).

Watch for this new batch. After tasting a range of the final choices for version three of Firelit, I can see that using Weaver’s robust Aged Mocha Java (earthy, woody, red wine notes) is going to add a new dimension to Firelit while retaining it’s signature taste profile.

Chic graffiti art lines pressed-tin ceilings at Ma'velous

Ma’velous, my favorite new coffee haven

Cheesy puns aside, Ma’velous is truly that. Kudos to Phillip Ma and his new coffee/wine bar which I’d be ecstatic to have in my own neighborhood. This coffee haven on Market Street (near Civic Center) is worth heading out of your way for. No, there is nothing else like it, even in a city of fabulous coffee.

The space is blessedly unique with graffiti artwork, pressed tin ceilings, retro-modern reclaimed furniture, textured floors, nooks with chairs, a couch, tables. The setting inspires but the coffee elevates.

Bean choices included beloveds like Intelligentsia and Ecco but also rare Tim Wendelboe from Norway. Wendelboe’s coffee is huge in Norway and this is the about the only place to get it in the States.

The preparation options are where it gets truly exciting for any coffee geek or the curious. You might want a Kyoto iced coffee or to have it prepared via siphon, V60, Beehouse pour over, French press, or Chemex. Then there’s their custom-made La Marzocco espresso machine. The staff is well-trained to create coffee in all forms.

A favorite already is an exquisite espresso made with Tim Wendelboe beans. I’m delighted by a “palette tasting bar” where you can sample coffees prepared three ways or three different brews.

Their hot chocolate, made with local TCHO chocolate, is initially airily dark, becoming more rich and silky as you near the bottom of the cup.

Ma’velous is a shining new star in the coffee firmament, thankfully doing it differently than other greats in town. I love it so much I want to be a regular.

NEW YORK CITY COFFEE

In a world-class city like New York, I’ve always been shocked that a proper coffee, whether it be straight-up cup, a cappuccino or espresso, is in such short order, especially given NY’s Italian influence. From that Italian perspective, coffee is as crucial to daily life as wine. One would not dream of serving Folgers or Sanka (!?), which even local friends have told me they’ve seen being used in fancy espresso machines at fine dining NY restaurants… for $6 a cup. For shame.

My hunt in years past was essentially a fruitless effort. When dining at Mario Batali restaurants like Lupa, I’d ask what kind of coffee they used after being burned so many times, and they actually were offended. I’m not quibbling as to why quality coffee is not the general standard here as it is on the West Coast, but more why it’s been nearly non-existent in a city of such size and culinary magnitude, rife with gourmands and Italians? It shouldn’t be this hard. Thankfully, times, they are a changin’… and Brooklyn, no surprise, is at the forefront. I’ll have to save Brooklyn coffee favorites for my next visit.

Now that our own long-time standard, Blue Bottle, made it’s way to Brooklyn a few months ago, and Stumptown opened in the Flatiron District (and is one of Manhattan’s best coffee stops), there’s finally a decent cup to be found. But what about local shops? It is interesting that in roaming Manhattan, visiting eight of the most acclaimed coffee spots, only half were actually great. But four is a success compared to past years when the now-defunct East Village Simon Sips was among the finer cups I’d had in NY, and recommendations to favorites like Grey Dog Coffee and Jack’s yielded welcoming neighborhood cafes but mediocre coffee.

Soho’s La Colombe, a Philadelphia-based (via Seattle) coffee company, is a clean, high-ceilinged space with grainy, modern wood and coffee served in Old World tea sets. The appeal of the shop did not cover up the needlessly snooty staff whose cappuccino not only came in an over-sized cup, but was a LATTE, not a cappuccino: milky as heck. Fail.

More promising, was an appropriately-sized cappuccino at Ninth Street Espresso (I visited the East Village locale), which claims to be the first specialty coffee house in NY since 2001. The hipster staff were laid back and kind… but somehow there was texture to the drink, and not the cream of an appropriately foamed capp, but more a grainy, thick, slightly off-putting texture. On the right track, but not there.

In alphabetical order, here were the best in preparation and taste out of the eight in my recent explorations. These are the ones most in line with Italian-quality robustness, balanced bitterness, and, when it comes to cappuccinos, proper ratios of milk and espresso with at least decent foam.

ABRACO, East Village – Locals and Bay Area friends alike, have told me since it’s 2007 opening that Abraco is the one single great cup in Manhattan. I’d agree it’s up there. In a postcard-sized East Village shop, the cappuccinos are of the quality and preparation I’m used to. No surprise that one of Abraco’s founding partners and baristas, Jamie McCormick, lived in the Bay Area 10 years working at Oliveto and, you guessed it, Blue Bottle. Partner and chef, Elizabeth Quijada, also has a Bay Area history, where she met McCormick. They make a beautiful cup.

BIRCH COFFEE, Flatiron – This quirky, lovable shop inside the funky, beckoning Gershwin Hotel, has a thrift store feel in the upstairs library, free wi-fi, their own fair trade beans, and most importantly, a lovely espresso and strong coffee.

BLUEBIRD COFFEE SHOP, East Village – Though I knew my old NY coffee stomping grounds, Simon Sips, had closed, I inadvertently wandered back to where it was housed to find it had turned into Bluebird, utilizing the same charming, tiny, brick-walled space filled with locals enjoying cozy conversation over coffee. The espresso borders on too bitter, but overall, they do a fine job, are quite friendly and the shop is a welcome addition using Counter Culture coffee.

RBC COFFEE, Tribeca – I trekked from Midtown to Tribeca on a rainy weekday during rush hour commute to this high-ceilinged shop, replete with a shiny, costly Slayer machine. I feared going out of my way would be a letdown, like so many others have been. Thankfully, it was not. In fact, both their espresso and cappuccino are just what that doctor (or coffee lover) ordered.

RBC and Abraco are now my top two coffee recommends (along with the impeccable Stumptown) in Manhattan.

*** Check out the current June 2010 issue of Vogue magazine for Jeffrey Steingarten’s article on coffee, including a few I’ve mentioned here (I recommend his books, too). I read the article after my trip but enjoyed the focus on actual cups of coffee and tasting profiles vs. espresso and other coffee drinks.

CHICAGO

Back to Chicago… neighborhood by neighborhood, in a multi-part series, I’ve been covering some haunts during my last visit. Here’s my three previous columns on Chi-town.

NORTHWEST SIDE

Hot Doug’s – So much has already been said about this fairly recent addition to the Chicago dog landscape. I thankfully got to try about 8 dogs here and they were all awesome, though specials change regularly. And they can be wild. Even if you don’t want foie gras on your dog (I did: Foie Gras/Sauternes Duck Sausage is topped with foie gras mousse, truffle aioli, fleur de sel – $9), there’s something for literally everyone. I’m itching to try a new addition to the menu: Jack Daniels/Fennel-smoked Pork Sausage with roasted yellow pepper anchovy sauce, hickory-smoked sweet Swiss cheese – $7.50).  

These are goopy, loaded, all-American dogs, not gourmet chi-chi or even European-style sausages, despite some of the ingredients. Whether going international (Spicy Thai Chicken Sausage with Sriracha mustard/seaweed-sesame salad – $7.50), humorous (The Salma Hayek – $4, a “mighty, mighty, mighty hot!” Andouille Sausage, formerly the Madonna, the Raquel Welch, the Ann-Margret…), or straight-up traditional (The Dog – $1.75), the price is reasonable and Doug himself, a welcoming guy… cheerfully patient with the crowds swarming his place.

Hot Doug’s exemplifies what Chicago’s about. Oh, be aware that by 11:30am, even on a weekday, you’ll already be waiting at least 30 minutes to get in. Good thing I made friends with locals in line. And it’s much further out than you think it’s going to be, nowhere near the El. Take a cab or drive.

LINCOLN SQUARE

Nhu Lan Bakery – One of the better Bahn Mi’s ($3.25) I’ve had comes in house-baked French rolls (it was a pleasure watching them brush butter over rolls as they slid them into the oven) at this non-descript hole-in-the-wall (note: that charming, European-looking structure on their website is NOT their building!) I took the El way north to the Lincoln Square area solely for the purpose of trying these babies which intrigued me from a mention in Time Out Chicago. The area is more suburban-looking, with lawns for everyone. And the area is lucky to have such a tasty, cheap meal.

ANDERSONVILLE

Ann Sather’s famed cinnamon rolls disappoint me, lard-heavy and what exemplified incredible baked goods in the 1970′s but don’t hold up quite as well now… but Andersonville is one of my favorite Chicago ‘hoods. With a Swedish and Norwegian spirit, the family vibe and charming, cafe and shop-lined street recalls my  longtime home of Noe Valley here in SF. But there’s other influences present, characterized in humble spots like Middle East Bakery & Grocery with tasty warm, mini pies (tried Spinach & Feta and Artichoke & Syrian Cheese – $1.75).

•  The Coffee Studio – Probably the best cup of coffee I’ve had in Chicago, it’s Intelligentsia Coffee, which I’ve had prepared well numerous places both in its native Chicago and LA. Coffee Studio does their espressos right with a knock-you-over strength and fine crema on top. It’s housed in a modern, brick-walled storefront next to charming antique and vintage decor shops.

•  m. henry – This place is darling, if there ever was a proper time to use the word: an old country storefront modernized with ‘shabby chic’ white wood pieces and gold, lower-case lettering. The back patio is funky, playful and welcoming. The food, however, despite raves as best brunch spot in many circles, is just alright.

It’s definitely a good brunch but upon ordering uber-popular Blackberry Bliss Cakes ($8.95), I suffered sugar-overload from drenched hotcakes in blackberry syrup and vanilla mascarpone cream. I wanted more of that brown sugar oat crust and less of the sopping mess my bottom pancake turned out to be (as my photo clearly displays). Jorge’s Black Bean Cakes & Eggs ($8.75) are decent, with chipotle sour cream, but not particularly memorable. It’s all about the setting.

BUCKTOWN

I stayed in a friend’s incredible loft right in the heart of trendy, hip Bucktown, a mere two blocks from Violet Hour. Disappointment came with mediocre sushi at Coast, and at Rodan, an Asian bistro/bar that intrigued with a brunch menu offering the likes of beignets with Vietnamese coffee (the first bland, the latter lukewarm, too sweet, inauthentic). What I did love at Rodan, however, was a big screen on the back wall playing jazz/big band “music videos” – nice to chill to Ellington as you’re waking up. Too bad the food doesn’t keep up. Sultan’s Market was an affordable little falafel shop and Middle Eastern deli in the ‘hood. Here were my favorites in Bucktown:

•  Violet Hour – The majority of cocktail raves in the city of Chicago center around this refined but youthful bar (refined but for weekend crowds descending rowdy and obnoxious from Illinois or Wisconsin suburbs). It certainly ushered Chicago into the artisanal, classic cocktail realm, though bars like this exist by the dozens in NY or even SF. I find fewer in Chicago of this caliber.

I visited Violet Hour a couple times (love the name, from a dreamy Bernard DeVoto quote found prominently on their home page). The first was a Friday night with annoyingly long wait, a doorman who let a group of shouting girls who looked about 18 and seemed wasted already, enter ahead of a long line of patient twosomes. Not was I was hoping for at supposedly a classy, cocktailians hang-out. Had it become too popular for its own good? Yes, is one answer to that question. Once we finally entered the graffiti-ed, signless door, we enjoyed our cocktails but Violet Hour fell well below my favorite Chi-town cocktail haven, The Drawing Room.

Thankfully I returned to Violet Hour, for a quiet couple hours at the bar on a Sunday at 5pm. What a difference! I made friends with those sitting next to me, fellow lovers of good food, drink, cities and unexpectedly, literature and poetry. I savored stimulating conversation paired with excellent drink and service… Stephen Cole was a top-notch bartender.

Generally around $12, my first visit entailed Zarzamora, Wild Turkey 101, Fernet, blackberries, house orange bitters, and Hush & Wonder, a refreshing blast of Matusalem rum, lime, Creme de Violette, grapefruit. It was better the second time around when I let the bartender choose. My favorite was a layered  but unfussy mix of Green Chartreuse, Peychaud, Angostura, lemon, lime, pineapple, Velvet Falernum, fresh mint – herbaceous, grassy, fresh. In tribute to my home, he served a Manhattan with Fernet (SF has long been the highest consumer of this bitter Italian digestif), Carpano, Luxardo cherries.

After this visit, I could warrant the fuss more. It’s still not my favorite bar in the country by any means, but I’m glad I got to experience the skill of its bartenders and the savvy of its regulars. Just go early…

•  Hot Chocolate – I went for a decadent three-course dessert one night and fell in love. The place is bustling, youthful, but noisy and crowded for my tastes. All was forgotten when I took my first bite of a Dark Chocolate Souffle Tart ($11) with salted caramel ice cream and pretzels. Salty/sweet perfection. Try to finish a sensual, lush dark Hot Chocolate ($6 – with a hint of caramel, or available in white or milk chocolate, with espresso, Mexican chocolate style or over ice – something for everyone!)

A Stout Caramel Milkshake ($6) with cookies mixed the malty taste of stout with ever-present caramel. Divine decadence all around. You’ll see why owner, Mindy Segal, has won multiple Outstanding Pastry Chef nominations at the James Beard Awards.

•  Miko’s Italian Ice – This guy rocks, sitting alone at a humble little window off a tree-lined street, scooping up ice flavors of the day.

I visited three of Chicago’s popular Italian ice spots this last trip but Miko’s was by far my favorite.

A tart, simple Lemon reminds me of East Coast Italian ices and Banana with Chocolate Chips is just fun.