Chef's Roasted Nuts & Mainland Cocktail at Roy Choi's A-Frame

LOS ANGELES

My January jaunt to LA yielded a number of discoveries from mediocre to delightful – here’s a rundown:

Latest & Hottest

A-FRAME, Culver City – I hit A-Frame, Roy Choi’s (of Kogi Korean taco truck fame) latest restaurant, just a few weeks after it opened. How could I not love the converted IHOP with a-frame shape and outdoor patio punctuated with bright color and firepits? They had me immediately. The under $20 menu helped, as did personable service. Add in some solid cocktails, and I’m as happy as a clam.

While every dish does not wow, the price is right and most of all, Choi clearly has fun with his menus, as do you eating his food. Snacks are the likes of chef’s roasted nuts ($5), a Japanese trail mix of sorts, with shredded beef jerky added in for good measure. Kitchen fries ($6) are so much more than fries. A few kinds of spud, from purple Okinawan sweet potato to Korean sweet potato, are fried lightly, then dusted with sea salt. Dipped in a midly spicy kimchi sour cream, there is no better accompaniment to drinks like the light, silky Mainland ($10) with pisco, lilikoi (passion fruit), lime, egg white, cayenne.

Island farmer’s market salad ($7) is no throwaway: a huge portion, it’s a mountain of greens sparked by shaved Maui onions, tofu, fried garlic, seasonal fruit and a ginger shoyu vinaigrette. Clam chowder ($9) is really an Asian cream soup with coconut milk, green curry, lemongrass, pancetta, and toasted sourdough toasts. Delicious.

But the best dish of all? Warm cornbread & chicken salad ($8). The cornbread sits toasted and warm, piled high with shredded chicken, Italian sausage ragoût, covered in a tart salsa verde (green tomatillos) and pickled red onion. This is comfort food I craved but wouldn’t have dreamed up.

At this point, there’s no room left for fried apple pie ($6) with Southern Comfort caramel and cheddar ice cream… but you’ll find a way.

GJELINA, Venice – Gjelina is among the better meals I’ve ever had in LA. In spite of an annoying no reservations policy given the crowds and obnoxious din all day long, the food is of high quality in ingredients and preparation… very Bay Area in its approach, the artisan pizza and appetizer thing has been well overdone in SF. But in LA it has not and Gjelina rivals Pizzeria Mozza in its food. If you can get a table in the tiny garden out back, take it. That, and the mini-room towards in the back, are the only spots where you can hear your own voice.

Try not to fall in love with caramelized fennel & fennel salami pizza ($15). Tomato confit adds a sweet contrast to the herbal, meat slant. A beautiful pie. Pure ingredients illuminate a sandwich like tuna conserva salad ($13) with roasted pepper, arugula & caper aioli. A salad ($9) of Tuscan kale, radish, fennel, and ricotta salata topped with breadcrumbs exemplifies how pleasurable eating your greens can be.

I’ve had a few Butterscotch Pot de Crèmes ($8) in my day, but I couldn’t help releasing a sigh of delight with the first silky bite of Gjelina‘s. Ultra-salty with salted caramel, a dollop of crème fraiche adds texture.

WATERLOO & CITY, Culver City – One of the hotspots in LA right now, and on top ten lists for best new opening of 2010, incessant crowds and an unimpressive space are downsides. But Waterloo & City has a staff that manages to make you feel taken care of in the midst of the bustle. Food and drink isn’t life-changing, by any means, but it’s solid fare in a casual setting: a gourmet pub with LA flair.

Cocktails work, like Honey Bear ($10): Maker’s Mark, Barenjager honey liqueur, orange bitters, orange twist. Simple veggie sides ($6) are among the strongest items I tried here, including broccolini in garlic and chili oil, and greens tossed with ricotta salata and radishes.

Indian butter chicken pizza ($14) was not near as exciting as it sounded, definitely needing more murgh makhani sauce.  Fettuccine ($18) in a Thai red curry lobster sauce did nicely with lime but a couple of the mussels tasted funky.

The winning dish by far is a well-crafted Smoked Tongue & Carrot Terrine ($12) with sweet & sour chilies and a robust mustard. Made me wish I tried more of their terrines, trotters, pates.

Cheap Eats

TLAPAZOLA, West LA – Tlapazola surprised me. It’s a humble, mid-range Mexican spot in West LA (with a second location in Venice). Our server was sweet and attentive, exhibiting a clear love for Tlapazola‘s cuisine.

With Oaxacan roots, their moles are lovely (black, yellow, or pumpkin seed), while their NY steak taco plate ($16) is unexpectedly perfect: tender, meaty beef with rice, black beans, molcajete sauce. Fish special entrees (in my case, mahi mahi with a subtle tomato ginger sauce at $20) are hefty slices of fish over veggies, cooked expertly if not overwhelmingly memorable.

I was particularly impressed with their cocktails, which I didn’t even come here for. I heard they had a broad tequila selection (they do), but cocktails are shockingly creative. There’s a tiny bar with no seating at the front of the restaurant, hardly a showcase for their winning drinks.

Ron-Chata ($9) is creamy with Whalers white rum, Kraken spiced rum, and Tres Leches triple-cream liqueur. A house cinnamon syrup adds spice, fruity notes come from prickly pear puree, and a caramelized walnut offers contrasting crunch.

Tlapazola ($10), the house drink, is made with Joya azul mezcal reposado, agave nectar, lime juice and old fashioned bitters. Cilantro layers it with an herbal tinge, while their own black mole adds heat, texture and meatiness. Further intrigue comes from a spritz of Pechuga mezcal mist, a favorite mezcal from Del Maguey.

I only regret not being able to try more Tlapazola cocktails.

MO-CHICA, Downtown – I’ve heard much hype from trusted sources like Jonathan Gold calling Mo-chica the best Peruvian in LA. That may be true, but I haven’t found Peruvian to be particularly strong in LA generally speaking. The plus of this humble eatery in a downtown LA’s Mercado La Paloma is its cheap prices, particularly for the quality.

But there were let-downs. Causas ($5), mashed Peruvian potatoes and vegetables shaped in a  circle, and, in this case, topped with crab meat, are among my favorite Peruvian dishes. But I’ve had a far superior version at La Mar here in SF many a time, though granted for double the price. The crab causa at Mo-chica was cold, a little bland, the crabmeat tasting slightly fishy.

Ceviche del Dia, or ceviche of the day (market price), was certainly stronger and a great deal, in large or small sizes (fish varies). My top dish was an unexpected one: Aji De Gallina ($10), shredded chicken in a spicy yellow sauce of aji amarillo chilies, walnuts and bread. Served with a side of rice, it’s filling, comforting and tastes better with each bite.

Old School

DAN TANA’S, Beverly Hills/West Hollywood – Ultimately, I can’t recommend you go to Dan Tana’s, classic Hollywood though it may be.

You know how much I adore old school Italian ala NY/Jersey-style. This place has that spirit in spades with movie-star clientele, cheeky hosts and bartenders to boot. But $24 for a plate of spaghetti or $31 for veal parmigiana?  I can get food just as good for half the price at dozens of other places. The fact that George Clooney et. al. have menu items named after them as regulars is far from a good reason to pay that much.

That being said, Clooney’s veal cutlet Milanese ($29) is lemon-y, caper goodness, and that hefty, cheesy lasagna ($27!) is beyond comforting. It’s got Rat Pack written all over it, and I even enjoyed being squeezed into a tiny corner booth. But I’d never pay those prices again for basic American-Italian food.

FOUNTAIN COFFEE ROOM, Beverly Hills – Legendary and gorgeous Beverly Hills Hotel, is classic Beverly Hills in a pink/green, 1960′s tropical motif, lined with palm trees. Head downstairs inside to tiny Fountain Coffee Room. The food is merely a few steps above diner food at Beverly Hills prices. Not worth a detour. But the waitresses have sass and the counter-only view makes for interactive eating. A decent Belgian waffle and corned beef plate were no match for the highlight: Fresh Orange Freeze ($6.75). For the same price as a glass of OJ, this fresh-squeezed juice is blended with yogurt, reminiscent of a grown-up, fresher version of Orange Julius.

Snacks

LEMONADE, Venice – Lemonade is an ideal cafe with buffet-style, build-your-own salads, sandwiches  and heartwarming sides and entrees, like braised short ribs or beef stroganoff. What I came for was the lemonade. Daily specials give you multiple options and lemonades are thankfully tart. Two specials I tried were Pomegranate Tarragon and Cucumber Mint, the former, sweet and juicy, the latter spa-like and refreshing.

COMPARTES CHOCOLATIER, Brentwood – The best local chocolates I’ve had from LA, Compartes creates gorgeous dark chocolate truffles and bars, including the apricot & shichimi 7-spice chocolate bar ($8), and truffles like Smoked Salt, Peanut Butter, Pink Peppercorn & Raspberry, which were the three best out of the many I recently tried.

EL CAPITAN SODA FOUNTAIN, Hollywood – Touristy and kiddie-central, there is no reason to go to the El Capitan Soda Fountain except for ice cream from Bakersfield’s legendary Dewar’s. When attending a wurlitzer concert at El Capitan, then back in Hollywood a couple nights later, I indulged both times in a Peppermint Freeze ($6-6.95 for three sizes; Dewar’s peppermint ice cream and 7-up). It’s a bright and minty guilty pleasure.

SUSINA BAKERY, Beverly Blvd. – I actually was disappointed in Susina Bakery, a cafe I’d heard under-the-radar raves about. Despite a welcoming Parisian cafe vibe and fine chocolate selection, pastries and coffee were mediocre and not at all worth going out of one’s way for.

KING’S ROAD CAFE, Beverly Blvd. - The coffee at King’s Road Cafe is no third wave beauty nor even old school robust, but this constantly busy cafe is better than the rest in the area if you happen to be on Beverly Boulevard. Otherwise, it’s not noteworthy.

 

Library Bar at Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel, Los Angeles

Not to be confused with downtown LA’s Library Bar (a pleasantly casual, book-lined hang-out, though not memorable on the drink front), the Library Bar, hidden in the back of the Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel‘s lobby, makes about the best cocktails I’ve ever had in LA (alongside the New York classicism of The Varnish and molecular creativity of The Bazaar). And that hasn’t always been the most rewarding search over the years.

A surprising respite off the jarring, touristy Hollywood Boulevard across from Grauman’s Chinese Theater, it’s a one-bartender show on any given night. This means you will wait for a drink, but it is worth it.

A farmers’ market spread of fruits, herbs and vegetables, selected daily, hints at the delights in store. There’s no menu. Tell bartender, Matt Biancaniello, your preferences or mood, trusting him to concoct a winner. And he will.

Though I love faux zebra bar stools and chairs, paired with sultry, brown leather couches in the mellow room. The one sour note is common in my experience at LA bars: the clientele.

Only one of a handful of people that night seemed to actually be any kind of cocktail appreciator. And he was driving home the point fairly loudly to the girls he was trying to flirt with. These women asked for a vodka tonic or some variation thereof… I couldn’t help but wish that these types would go to any of the hundreds of bars nearby that would happily serve them just such a flavorless drink, leaving this a quiet haven for cocktail aficionados and adventurous palates.

But it’s to Biancaniello’s credit that he cheerfully asked these women questions, pushing their boundaries using various herbs and white rum or gin instead of vodka. Stretching them a bit, but not too far, he did what a great bartender should do: educate and enlighten, without talking down to.

For those with expanded taste, delights await. Tastes run savory with vegetables or spices, lush with foams or house-infused liqueurs, tart with an array of citrus. As Biancaniello will say, he’s clearly inspired by the likes of Scott Beattie. If not reaching that level of artistry, he pursues it.

On my visit, Biancaniello made cocktails with white raspberries and sage, or hops-infused gin. After asking for something savory and different, I was a little disappointed to get a drink with gin and strawberries, Last Tango in Modena (which Jonathan Gold calls one of the best cocktails in LA as of 3/3). It was expertly made, though not my favorite of the night. Hendricks gin gave it a cucumber crispness, married with strawberries, topped with St. Germain foam, brown with a sweet, 25yr balsamic vinegar. I have had the aged vinegar and strawberry combo before, from drinks to ice cream, though this was certainly a superior version.

He mixed rum with California’s Winter bounty: blood oranges, Meyer lemons and satsumas. St. Elizabeth’s Allspice Dram imparted a Wintery spice. A crisped orange slice exhibited a Beattie-like touch.

I especially took to Kentucky Bubble Bath, a bourbon cocktail (Bulleit, in this case), brightened with lemon. Gently floral with house lavender syrup (hence the bubble bath), Cynar artichoke liqueur adds a layer of gentle bitterness.

Cocktail lovers should make a beeline for this bar whenever they’re in LA. It’s not typical for that city, or anywhere, really. The skillful, one-man-show, California farmers market bounty, and intimate setting (minus a bit of clientele douchebaggery) make it a drink destination.

But please, if you want a vodka tonic, just go to the perfectly nice-looking bar at the front of the hotel instead.

LOS ANGELES

My last jaunt to LA yielded a few spots I thought you should know about:

OLD PLACE, Agoura Hills – Take to the winding roads of Agoura Hills where happening upon Old Place feels like a mirage in the wild West. The smell of BBQ lures you in, while a rustic wood porch makes you want to pull out a banjo and ‘set a spell’.

This restaurant is a surprise in any part of LA. Rustic yet current, it’s like stepping into another dimension, a Bonanza-like LA where Hoss or Little Jo might ride up any minute for beef stew or blue corn meal flapjacks yet the clientele is youthful and hip. As for the food, I can’t vouch yet (they are open for dinner and a popular brunch), as I lingered in the rustic chic wine bar next door. But I can say I was enchanted amidst the dry brush and quiet of winding Agoura Hills.

MOLES LA TIA, East LA – Never mind the sketchy area when a slew of lovingly prepared Oaxacan moles await at the humbly wonderful Moles La Tia. The gracious staff brought me a few additional moles to taste as I couldn’t possibly eat all the dishes I wanted to.

Passion fruit mole is brightly piquant without being sweet. Coffee mole is earthy and lush. Get blissfully lost in the mole menu, but if you haven’t had Chef Rocio Camacho’s Mole Negro, or Oaxacan Ancestran Black Mole over quail ($15), do not delay.  Dark as the night, layered and complex, you’ll taste something different in every bite, all the while singing Camacho’s praises. 

EL TEPAYEC, East LA - The famed Hollenbeck Burrito is something you should try once in your life, giant enough to feed a few, overflowing with rice, beans, tons of pork and what feels like an entire avocado. But the real appeal at El Tepayec is the world worn, charming 1970′s diner, the adorable, elderly doorman (yes, even on a weekday this place has a line), and the Mexican curios lining the walls. Locals swarm the brown-toned dining room. At the take-out window (with side patio ideal for a quick bite), I’ve heard men order two Hollenbeck burritos… each.

PORTO BAKERY, Burbank – This swarming Burbank bakery operates like a massive, chandelier-laced cafeteria doling out Cubano sandwiches and box-upon-box of cakes and sweets to go. Cuban families and nearby film and TV studio workers pack the place out for lunch. Understandable, considering most sandwiches were under $5.

I filled a box with pastries from Porto’s, impressed that unlike most gourmet bakeries these days, most items are under $1. That’s right: for the same sized pastry I pay $3-4 for elsewhere, I paid 75 cents. The owners’ heritage is Cuban so I avoided the French or Americanized pastries and went for unusual items like Guava & Cheese Strudel, Mango Empanadas, or Chorizo Pie. Fruity, tart, flaky… each was a delight. And less than $5 for a number of them.

JOSE ANDRES’ THE BAZAAR
LOS ANGELES

I’ve been privileged to savor the wonder that is molecular gastronomy done right, whether it be at Alinea, Baume or even the creativity of Coi. In visiting The Bazaar at the SLS Beverly Hills Hotel, I arrived with tempered expectations but left wowed. From DC/Spanish chef genius, Jose Andres, the meal is a wonderland of inventiveness that never commits the cardinal sin of molecular cooking: all style, no substance (or flavor).

One after another, his stellar (if tiny) dishes parade out, adding up to a big bill, though each item may only cost around $10. As opposed to astronomical, fixed price tasting menus at all other molecular restaurants, one of many things I love about The Bazaar is that you order a la carte, even in the bar, as much or as little as you wish. If I lived nearby, I’d try a new bite or two regularly, eventually working my way through the entire menu. This is now my all-around favorite LA restaurant.

The space is stunning, Alice-in-Wonderland eclectic but with a classy bent. It could easily be gimmicky, but it works – and I appreciate getting a ‘show’ in setting as well as food for my money. Moving from the general dining room, through a chic bar to the museum-like dessert area, is all part of a drama that works…

For a cocktail hound like  myself, one of the many joys here is that cocktails are equally inventive: whether it’s a margarita with salt foam instead of a rim (I wish all margaritas could be this balanced: salt permeates, but never dominates, every part) or a liquid nitrogen caipirinha prepared tableside, you’ll experience classic cocktails in ways you’ve never had them before.

There is a menu of “traditional” Spanish tapas, including a top-notch Spanish meat and cheese selection, but I stuck to “modern” tapas as this is what you can’t get elsewhere.

Since half the joy here is the work of art inherent in each course, I will let my photos do the talking, urging you to dream of what intense flavors and unexpected tastes could surprise from each plate. Better yet, make sure you visit next time you’re in LA, whether for a couple bites or a full evening extravaganza… bring a sense of adventure and wonder.

IMBIBER in LOS ANGELES

• Downtown LA’s The Varnish has only been open for one year, helmed by the gracious Eric Alperin. From NYC, he opened Varnish with Sasha Petraske of NY’s famed Milk & Honey (where Eric used to work) and Cedd Moses of LA’s 213 bars (including Seven Grand). A NY pedigree shows in the muted classiness of the place. Certainly speakeasy style, you get there via delightful Cole’s French Dip back door. It feels like the 1920′s with an upright piano, lots of wood, mellow lighting and jazz.

This is the LA bar with my ideal environment: grown up, refined but relaxed, everyone is seated, conversation is easy, music is excellent and at the right volume. Of course, none of that would matter if service and drinks weren’t superb, and they are. At $12 each, there’s Hot Buttered Rum (with aged rum), cozy on a winter’s night. Holland Razor Blade takes Genever far with a kick of lemon and cayenne. El Diablo is a refreshing mix of tequila, ginger, lime, cassis, seltzer. But the highlight was being able to get Milk & Honey’s Penicillin: smoky with two kinds of scotch, accented by lemon, fresh ginger, honey syrup… plus a decadent candied ginger garnish. I’d go for bartender’s choice with their perfect ice spheres and elegantly balanced drinks. The Varnish will show you how it’s done.

•  Scoot right next door to the grand door with lion knocker and enter The Association, with a decidedly different vibe. While chandeliers shimmer alluringly, on a Friday night, music is loud, everyone is standing around, and decor is chic Vegas, circa 1970′s. Conversation is not as easy, but drinks are top notch, and the staff some of the most delightful I’ve met at any bar. Owner McCray Miller is warm, hospitable and his spirit infuses the staff. Fred Warner was our bartender par excellence, showcasing his skills in classics utilizing every spirit from pisco to scotch.  Fred makes a brilliant Blood and Sand – maybe the best version I’ve had. He whips up a mighty fine Pisco Sour, too. Ditto on his Singapore Sling, variation on the Last Word (using blanco tequila instead of gin), as well as a refreshing Paloma. If I lived close by, this is the place I’d love to stop in early or on weeknights, when the vibe is mellow, and let them make me what they will.

•  I could sing the praises of Jose Andres’ The Bazaar‘s exciting molecular cocktails (and food). For now, I claim it to be among the best in LA, saving details for my upcoming review of The Bazaar.

•  VODKA rears its head for a comeback. Myself included, there’s been a rejection amongst many fine cocktailians and bartenders to steer far from vodka… understandably so, given its abuses and often lack of distinction. Sure, I love a classic vodka martini (though usually prefer gin), but there aren’t many I’d sip straight, especially compared to other spirits. As I begin to see small batch, higher quality vodkas behind my favorite bars, being made by distillers I respect (plus articles like Imbibe’s current cover treatment), I’m starting to find more I can work with.

It was a pleasure to further my vodka palate in Beverly Hills at Nic’s one-of-a-kind Vodbox. A frozen room (28 degrees), it’s available by appointment and for small groups (flights $21-30 per person). Our host wore an evening gown but couldn’t have been more relaxed, appealing to tastes of each person in our group, from the novice who wants flavored vodkas to bourbon/scotch drinkers like myself.

Hilarity ensued when we were given fur coats and hats to don – leopard coats for the ladies. After laughing at each other in giant, puffy hats, we were grateful for the furry warmth in a freezing, refined, orange and white room. We tasted vodkas from Poland, Iceland, Russia, Vietnam, covering rice, wheat, rye and potato grains. Thanks to our knowledgeable host, who led us through varying taste profiles, we discerned nuances and dramatically unique profiles of each. From Rekya’s “green” vodka of Iceland (with notes of jalapeno and lemon), Zubrowka Bison Grass vodka from Poland, to Jewel of Russia’s striking, hand-painted ultra-vodkas, I found plenty to relish here.

We didn’t eat at Nic’s except to dive into tasty, baked oysters ($13), with spinach, walnuts, garlic. I sampled an array of martinis, some a little fruity for my tastes, others with nice herbaceous notes. Kudos for What A Nice Pear You Have, a martini of Grey Goose Poire Vodka, fresh pear juice and shaved Parmesan on top! They also win points for warm hospitality… and a Dean Martin shrine.

Left disappointed:

•  I actually recommend The Edison, a big player in LA’s classic cocktail scene, because it’s a stunner of an underground movie set. The Renaissance Man likened it to Disneyland, however, and coupled with a sceney, sometimes obnoxious crowd, it’s almost ruined. But go at least once to check out the subterranean space, a mad scientists’ elegant cocktail lab with creepy but mesmerizing, turn-of-the-century (1900, that is) black and white shorts playing on the walls, velvet couches and leather chairs strewn throughout (though good luck sitting anywhere unless you reserve ahead). I know Marcos Tello is a skilled, creative bartender, I didn’t see him – our bartender was just trying to keep up with the crowds so no time to engage. Though I asked him to make me whatever he wanted with bourbon or scotch, he made something straight off the menu. I loved the concept of an Anejo Old Fashioned ($13 each cocktail), but it was heavy on the agave nectar. Fairing better was The Edison, Woodford Reserve bourbon, pear cognac and a hint of honey.

•  I wanted to love Roger Room, I really did. Less than a year old and hidden behind a faux tarot card storefront is a cozy, low-ceilinged bar reminding me of classic New York, with wood, murals, red booths and a ‘good old boys’ clubby feel. Bartenders are friendly, even if the crowd swings too heavily towards giggling ‘girlfriends’ sporting mini-skirts. Looking at the drink menu on hippie, rainbow-colored paper, I got scared. Vodka played heavily on the list – I’d heard this was a classic cocktail joint? Maybe if I’d stuck to basics, it would have been ok. But I heard the Pican Millionaire ($12) was one to get: Torani Amer, Punt e Mes, Luksusowa Vodka, pomegranate syrup, black pepper. It sounded intriguing but tasted like cough syrup… and, yes, was too sweet.

•  Tar Pit was a priority: not only had it just opened a couple months prior, but NY’s cocktail queen, Audrey Saunders, was behind the menu. Literally days after my visit, she was suddenly no longer affiliated with the establishment. Hmmm.

With muted music and soothing elegance in a 40′s inspired room, I expected this would become a favorite as I sat at the refined bar. There was a little snobbery at the door, but I put that behind me… until the bartenders displayed the same. Low marks for unnecessary aloofness.

Cocktails ($12-17) are strikingly presented. Watching the bartender deftly make our drinks, I noticed perfect ice, ingredients of high quality, fresh herbs lining the bar. But he disappeared after serving one round and never returned, though I saw him hanging out in the kitchen. All three drinks I tried suffered from being too sweet. I was shocked. Audrey’s supposedly about balance!

Though the bartender was correct in saying a beautiful Liquorice Whiskey Smash was more herbal than licorice, he failed to mention it was sickeningly sweet. I couldn’t even drink half. It was served proper julep style in a julep cup with crushed ice but even diluted by ice it retained  its syrupy flaws. A Lemon-Thyme Daiquiri was bright with white rum, muddled lemon and thyme, lime juice and lime syrup. Would have been lovely if it weren’t… you guessed it… sugary. I actually asked for the Agave Bravo (mezcal, reposado, agave syrup, Angostura bitters, grapefruit twist) to be less sweet since I’d heard beforehand that this particular drink was (who knew that applied to all?) This was the only drink out of three with equilibrium.

LOS ANGELES

Restaurants

•   Animal has received endless raves since opening in 2008. With a menu laden with animal parts, pig and bacon/chocolate, I’ve seen the like dozens of times in SF and long before 2008. So I found the hype unwarranted. But they do everything well in what is an unusual menu for LA. It leans heavily toward the fried side of things and I’ve had better versions of similar dishes in SF. That being said, I’d recommend it as a tasty LA meal that, similar to SF, is about the food, not the scene (the dining room is noisy but casual).

Crispy Hominy with lime ($5) lost my interest after a couple fried bites, and Grilled Sardines ($10) with duck fat gremolata, pine nuts and raisins, were prepared properly but not the best I’ve had (I’m a big sardine lover). More memorable was a rich Duck Confit ($14), its intense saltiness contrasted by the sweetness of dates and apple, plus pecan and arugula. The richness continued with a tender, medium-rare Flat Iron Steak ($25), drenched in truffle Parmesan fondue with sunchoke hash. Yes, once again, it’s fried, but I loved Quail Fry ($15), packed with crunch and maple jus, over creamy grits, chard and smoky slab bacon. I’ve had the bacon chocolate combo many a (happy) time – and here it remains happy in a Bacon Chocolate Crunch Bar ($7).

•   Jitlada – I finally made it to LA’s legendary Thai spot, renowned for rarely found Southern Thai specialties and heat that transports me right back to my two life-changing months working at orphanages and in slums around Thailand. It’s in a dingy strip mall, but memorable for its immense menu of unusual Thai delicacies. For better or worse, I stuck to the more ‘authentic’ (read: unbearably hot) second menu in my ordering choices.

Spicy Sugar Brown Chicken ($11.95) comes in a rare Southern curry native to the chef’s hometown – nuanced spicing compared to more common Thai curries – and brutally hot. A spicy (big surprise) Tumeric Curry ($9.95) was tempered with coconut milk, pineapple, shrimp.

Spicy (seeing a theme here?) Basil Crab ($15.95) is searingly hot, succulent soft shell crabs fried with basil leaves and dried coconut. Watch out for that yummy curry sauce. At first, it seems like it cuts the heat – then you find it’s more extreme. That was a favorite, along with lovely Khao Yam ($9.95), a salad with less chilis then the other dishes – but it still left a burn. It’s a melange of jasmine rice, mango slivers, green beans, kaffir lime leaves, lemongrass, carrots, cucumbers, sprouts, coconut, dried shrimp. Finish with a silky rendition of Mango Sticky Rice.

•   R23 actually disappointed me. There’s absolutely nothing wrong with this solid Japanese spot for sashimi, rice and cooked fish dishes. But there’s nothing particularly noteworthy about it either. LA has too much good Japanese food to go out of your way.

Salmon Skin Salad ($9) had a fine crunch, Chirashi bowls (sashimi over rice, $11-14) worked decently, as did platters of sushi and grilled fish, except for a dry, overcooked salmon. Yellowtail Collar (market price) is  served by the collarbone… a hefty fish, its crispy skin too blackened in parts but striking in presentation. In a warehouse, art gallery space, I’d heard many recommendations for R23 over the years so expected more, but came away feeling it was just average.

•   Even with reservations, Sushi Gen, in a Little Tokyo strip mall, is a long wait for a table among a mostly Japanese clientele. They serve straightforward sushi and sashimi, so don’t come looking for rolls or creativity. What you will find is traditional quality.

Though my favorite Japanese in LA thus far remains Asanebo, Sushi Gen is a great locale for straightforward sashimi – I went for the deluxe platter (around $35) and left pleased. They fry up satisfying tempura vegetables and shrimp, too.

•   Wurstkuche is one of LA’s newer hotspots. All under $7.75, order at the counter in the back (or front, depending on which side you enter from), grab beers at the bar and pick a table in a brick-walled warehouse. My anticipation was high from a menu laden with wild game and exotic sausages, among my top foods.

I have to say, SF’s own Rosamunde Sausages have been doing this WAY longer (over a decade) and much better, while newer places like Hot Doug’s in Chicago are exponentially more exciting  and delicious. Some Wurstkuche sausages were dry, others lacked the robustness expected in the combo (Alligator & Andouille, for example). Apricot Ginger Chicken Turkey sausage in a lamb casing worked best of the ones I tried.

Similar to Rosamunde, there’s a fine selection of Belgians and artisan beers (we had St. Bernardus Prior 8 and their # 12, as well as Chimay White, all on tap; $8 a glass)… but what I like here is the roomy, cavernous space, long picnic tables laden with mustard, awesome sweet peppers and the joyous bustle of families and friends chowing down on sausages. It made it taste better.  I was delighted to order hard-to-find flavors of Reed’s ginger beers, like Spiced Apple Brew or Cherry Ginger ($3.50). It’s an all-around good time, and affordable, to boot… even if they’re not top-notch dogs.

Bites

•   Cacao Mexicatessen – This Oaxacan gourmet deli is actually one of the highlights of my last visit. I’d go out of my way again for divine Carnitas de Pato ($3.49): duck confit tacos with avocado, onion, radish and the bite of vinegar and chile oil. Cheers to hand-made tortillas and fall-apart duck.

Choose from specialty cacaos, iced or hot, like Azteca Mocha ($3.50 or $3.75): coffee and Oaxacan chocolate with sugar, cinnamon, almonds, chile de arbol, chipotle. Street snacks and candies imported from Mexico are likewise a draw. My mouth puckered from the extreme heat and sour of 30 cent Saladitos Con Chile, salted plums with chile.

•   Casbah Cafe is a fine neighborhood go-to in Silver Lake, especially after the morning ritual of coffee at Chicago’s own Intelligentsia next door. I like the quiche and especially their scones (ginger in particular).

Best part is an eclectic, boho vibe and sidewalk seating. Across the street, is a longtime fave, Pazzo Gelato, which I’ve written about before.

•   Scoops – Besides the aforementioned Pazzo Gelato, this is my other tops in LA ice cream. With only a few alternating flavors, texture is memorable: almost soft serve-like, but still creamy, robust in taste. The crunch/cream contrast in Brown Bread or scotch goodness of Chocolate Whiskey stay with me.