WINTER WEEKEND ESCAPES:
NICK’S COVE, Tomales Bay

Once off the 101, it’s a winding trek via country lanes to Tomales Bay. On the shores of the Bay with its outlet to the Pacific Ocean visible in the distance, sits Nick’s Cove. Nick’s is a settlement built in the 1930′s with cottages and a restaurant on pilings over the Bay. There’s little else nearby; even cabins across the street are part of Nick’s. The cozy little row of cottages and main house reflect a boating, fishing spirit reflecting a history of hard-working folks who built the structures.

I’m a regular traveler, globally and nationally, even having stayed in Tomales Bay before. I can say Nick’s Cove is one of of my favorite places I’ve ever stayed. Upon arrival on a crisp, clear winter’s night, I felt immediately transported to somewhere far, far away… not merely one hour from my home in the city but to quiet, soothing shores.

Nick’s restaurant sits at the edge of a pier lit up by Christmas lights with a quirky Boat Shack perched at its end. In-shack telephones and menus allow you to call up the restaurant for food and drinks, as you lounge under the gaze of a diving mask evoking 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea. I could linger here for quite some time.

Stepping inside my cottage (I stayed in “Al”), elicited a sigh of delight. The space emits that warm glow of home, but with the comforts of a posh hotel.

From the cozy cabin is a view of the Bay and pier, while knotty, wood walls remind me of my grandpa’s home of over 60 years. Fishing poles, vintage photos, and a comfy, brown leather couch decorate the living room next to a wood-burning stove.

There’s a breakfast and a coffee table and a cabinet hiding a TV (from which I played classic Loretta Lynn, Gene Autry, and George Jones tunes on a traditional country music station ideally suited to the space). A wood hutch is lined with bottles of spirits, like Bulleit Bourbon and vermouth. One could make their own Manhattan or basic cocktail. Nice touch.

Through the tiny living room is a bedroom with inviting, king-sized bed, plump pillows and vintage lamps.

A roomy bathroom is delightfully old school, with clawfoot tub, classic floor tiles that are heated (praise be!), and vintage sink.

Most importantly, from our private deck (visible to neighboring cottage decks), the water’s gentle lapping underneath lulled me into rest.

There’s internet and TV, but you don’t need it.

Here you feel hundreds of miles from stress and pressure, nestled between the hills and blue water of Tomales Bay.

FOOD & DRINK

There aren’t many options on these isolated shores of Highway 1. But thankfully you only need one and it’s literally a few feet from your cabin or cottage. Nick’s Cove restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, with drinks and bar bites by the roaring brick fireplace in the bar, or water views from just about every table.

The shocker is that despite the seafaring paraphernalia and all day menus, there’s little kitschy or touristy about the food. In fact, I was surprised to find it damn good, particularly in the case of a brilliant off-menu chef’s special of a seared scallop atop a red rice cake in a curry sauce. A dish like this makes me intrigued to see what else the young, talented executive chef, Austin Perkins, can do.

Meanwhile, there’s a heaping pile of fritto misto ($14): delicately fried calamari and rock cod tossed with sweet potato, fennel and lemon peel. I won’t complain about pumpkin arancini ($12) with maple-cinnamon sour cream to dip those fried squash balls in.

On the non-fried tip, Dungeness Crab Risotto ($21) is generously laden with crabmeat – maybe as much crab as rice. Crispy yams, pancetta and Parmesan cheese dot the mountain o’ crab. Under entrees, fish specials of the day are a key way to go though there’s also wood-roasted ribeye ($29), braised lamb shanks ($23), and rabbit pappardelle ($23).

** Rates run anywhere from $225-$790 a night depending on season, cottage vs. cabin, and size of cabin. Take note of Nicolina, a darling, little boat on stilts, like a cozy captain’s berth.

ON THE DAIRY FARM

On a recent misty morning in Point Reyes, then inland for a Petaluma afternoon, I visited two of our most beloved creameries. The damp earth of a dairy farm in dark, early hours is oddly intoxicating, while sampling fresh cheese in various stages of ripening is sheer pleasure. These dairies make me proud of the familial, forward-thinking, humane food practices that have been going strong in the Bay Area for decades from pioneers such as these.

Straus Family Creamery

One look in the eyes of cows at Straus Family Creamery and you’re changed. If you did not care care where your milk came from, you do now. Petting baby cows, tagged with names such as Wilma or Eve (above), you become attached, even protective, of these peaceable animals. It inspires hope to see cows treated as well as they are here, a rarity in the mainstream dairy market.

Organic before it became a “trend”, Bill Straus began farming this coastal Point Reyes land in 1941 with 23 cows (there’s now over 300 milk cows). His wife Ellen read Rachel Carson’s game-changing Silent Spring in the ’60′s, mobilizing them both in lifelong commitment to environmental sustainability. They were the first certified organic dairy farm west of the Mississippi in 1994, leading in sustainable farming practices.

Early on a soft, grey weekday, I trekked up to the farm via scenic winding roads, not unlike those of the Scottish Highlands I’d just returned from a day before. Directly on Tomales Bay, the farm rolls down to the shore, often foggy in the mornings, with sun peeking through by afternoon. The air smells funky with cows, yes, but also bracingly of earth, water, grass.

Bill and Ellen’s son Albert Straus now runs the farm. Majoring in dairy science, he launched their ice cream line (he’s a real aficionado), continuing to grow Straus Creamery in sustainable practices like composting solids and waste to fertilize their land (or that of nearby biodynamic wineries).

Straus keeps a “closed herd” so no infection/disease gets transported to the cows. While he works with 300 milking cows, he’s simultaneously raising 250 young cows who begin milking after two years.

There’s not a lot of profit to be made allowing the natural process  vs. increasing milk flow by injecting cows with hormones. It is heartening to see those like Straus, who care more about the quality and health of the product for consumers, along with the animals and their land, than the bottom line. But this level of care costs.

As prices of basics like grain and production have gone up at least 25% in the last couple of years alone, there’s now even less to gain by doing it “right.” But Straus presses on, under standards for organic farm certification that are stricter than for any food product. Straus is pleased to note that organic farms in Marin and Sonoma now make up around 50% of those counties’ farms, indicating the area as an industry leader (learn more about the organization formed in part by Albert and Sue Conley of Cowgirl Creamery, Marin Organic, now celebrating 10 years and responsible for promoting much of the region and industry’s growth).

With a mission to maintain and preserve family farms, Albert is willing to take risks and try new approaches: “Most farmers are pretty risk averse, but I seem to continue to go the other way,” he laughs. Coming from a family line of risk-takers in dairy farming, we all gratefully reap the benefits.

Cowgirl Creamery

A day spent with Cowgirl Creamery founders, Sue Conley and Peggy Smith, among the finest cheesemakers in the country, is a delight. With close ties to the Straus family (they not only source milk from Straus, but Sue was in part inspired to launch Cowgirl by her relationship with the Strauses).

Both from rich culinary backgrounds, Peg and Sue created highly-lauded cheeses like that triple-cream dream, Mt. Tam, and earthy, unique Red Hawk. Their shop in SF’s Ferry Building is a cheese destination, with production now mainly in a larger creamery in Petaluma (a town boasting other major creameries like Clover and Cowgirl’s building neighbor, Three Twins).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

They produce ten different cheeses, seven in Petaluma, and three in their original (smaller) Point Reyes facility.

Peg notes that in Europe keeping cheeses regionally uniform (like Camembert in Camembert, France, for example) means strict style regulations. “We are lucky to have such great variety of cheeses here,” she says, claiming freedom of experimentation led to some of their most popular cheeses.

Besides an idyllic lunch at Sue’s house, the day’s high point came in sampling Mt. Tam in numerous states of age, from hours’ old, just-brined, tasting salty-sour-tart, to a meaty, acidic phase at seven days, finishing with a creamy, nutty thirty-two day Mt. Tam (it is usually sold in the mid 20-30 day ranges).

Schedule a tour of Cowgirl (tours resume in the Spring) or Straus farm (group tours only), and you may come away as I did, with an increased appreciation for cheese, cows, our diverse region, and the artisans who strive to create the best… and change the world while they’re at it.

Insects & Mezcal Dinner

DON BUGITO DINNER at HEADLANDS CENTER for the ARTS, Marin

Nestled near the ocean in the wilds of the Marin Headlands sits Headlands Center for the Arts, an artists’ haven in a reclaimed military barracks that is inspiring just to be in, as it must be for its artists in residence. Known for the culinary care and special event meals they host in their warm, open kitchen and dining room, I was intrigued to check it out. So what better excuse than for a five course insect and mezcal dinner?

You heard right. Don Bugito, a new La Cocina business that premiered at SF Street Food Festival this August (which I wrote about here, in my SF Bay Guardian column, and Grubstreet), hosted this unique meal.

Paired with Mexican juices, a take on the Michelada (a beer and spice-based imbibement), and the Mission’s De La Paz Coffee, the drink highlight was San Honesto Mezcal, a bright, grassy, gently smoky mezcal that is not yet available in the US but should be by early next year.

Having eaten mealworms and wax moth larvae with Don Bugito before, I was hoping for even further challenges at this meal. As an intro to bugs, the textures and tastes of the five insects served were inoffensive (yes, even to those who fear bugs), even tasty, proving the points made in a pre-dinner educational session: eating insects is nutritional, ecological and sustainable. One could see this being a micro movement in urban centers such as ours, just as beekeeping and urban farming have been.

Don Bugito owner, Monica Martinez, says, “Our goal is not to introduce insects as a novelty, but as something that will last.” I’d say with the palatable insect-tinged dinner we experienced, she is introducing an approachable, realistic way to eat insects.

The Headlands Center’s next dining event is December 7, a speakeasy-style, small plates cocktail party with cocktails from the incomparable Bon Vivants.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

MARIN

Tavern at Lark Creek’s new Biergarten, Larkspur

Think towering redwoods, smoky aromas of sausages, onions and peppers wafting from a grill, German beers on tap from a cooler, and a darling oompah band of elderly gentleman playing with spunk and skill. Enter the just-launched this week Biergarten at The Tavern at Lark Creek. For a short jaunt from the city to Larkspur, it feels worlds away.

I arrived the inaugural Sunday, 8/21, to sunny, fresh air and the knowing shade of those gorgeous redwoods that flank the Tavern (more a classic yellow and white house than tavern). The Biergarten will run every Sunday through October 30 (2–5:30pm) outside the restaurant. It evokes Munich beer garden days but with a decidedly California spirit from towering redwoods and elevated beerhaus food.

Chef Aaron Wright grills up smoked beer or chicken apple sausages and garlic bratwurst, juicy and savory, accompanied with grilled onions, peppers and two types of mustard. House-made pretzels come generously dusted with sea salt, or German potato salad helps in soaking up pints of Spaten’s Pilsner and Dark Optimator. Food operates with a ticket system (1-2 tickets, at $5 each, per dish or beer).

When the oompah band raised their steins with rowdy joy, I raised mine, feeling time stop if for a moment, aware of the simple joys of taste, smell, music, camaraderie and nature on a Sunday afternoon.

El Paseo, Mill Valley

Tyler Florence and Sammy Hagar’s (yes, of Van Halen) rebirth of El Paseo, the historic, brick-lined labyrinth of a space tucked off an alley in Mill Valley since 1947, has been going strong since March. And if you’ve tried, you know it’s mighty difficult to get a reservation. I have found, however, on a weeknight or Sunday, that slipping into the bar around 7:30pm affords me one of its two cozy tables, while seats at the bar tend to open up pretty regularly.

Despite the fact that I can vouch for the quality of food coming out of the kitchen, the number one reason to go is still that magical space. The enchantment of candlit, brick-walled walkways opening up into one dim, romantic dining room after another, evokes a subterranean wine cellar feel.

Even the font used for the restaurant name (on plates, knives, menus) harkens to the past, while the straightforward American chophouse menu confirms the old school vibe.

Though nothing here has been revolutionary, an heirloom salad ($15) loaded with yellow and red tomatoes, crispy croutons and thick mozzarella, is fresh, if a little salty, and more artful than expected. A a side of creamed corn ($8) is pretty much Summer goodness encapsulated.

Steaks ($26-29 or $60-90 for two) are juicy, dry-aged (for 38 days) California Holsteins (some come wrapped in bacon). Cravings for beef are satiated. As they are with the Béarnaise burger ($16): medium rare, its tenderness melts between toasted brioche, dripping with caramelized cioppolini onions and Nueske’s bacon.

There’s a worthy wine list, yes, but the one thing missing is a fine Scotch or bourbon/rye cocktail.

All in all, I’d come return again for more meaty, candlit enchantment.

SAUSALITO

WEAVER’S COFFEE, San Rafael

Weaver’s Coffee: if you aren’t drinking it, you should be.

Based in San Rafael, Weaver’s has a chill, little shop serving and selling their coffee and teas. The shop fronts their roasting facility and offices, which I had the privilege of touring recently.

John Weaver, master roaster and founder, was Peet’s master roaster for over 20 years, working directly with the late Alfred Peet. He brings a masterful perfection to Weaver’s coffees and teas, with a refined eye and palate for sourcing the best beans internationally. He returns to his roots with Weaver’s (under his parent company, Wild Card Roasters), able to once again create small batch, individualized blends.

During my visit, I sifted through burlap bags of raw beans from many countries, witnessing the different look and feel of each. Watching the roasting process in a massive Probat machine, divine aromas encompass.

Weaver and crew manually and continuously check the beans as they turn from light green/brown tones to a dark, chocolate-ly brown. Similar to craft distilling, they smell and examine beans through various stages to ascertain the exact moment when roasting is complete. It’s an art requiring expertise and timing.

There are many beans to recommend, from the rich, wine notes of Aged Mocha Java (also used in the current batch of St. George’s Firelit Liqueur), to the current special Astral Blend: smooth, sweet, earthy (bonus: purchasing this one supports breast cancer research).

I’ve been drinking Weaver’s since last Fall and it is the best new coffee I’ve had in awhile… as it begins to gain popularity, I’m proud to call it another local great.

**Purchase Weaver’s at Rainbow Grocery and Whole Foods locally, to name a few. Here’s a full listing.

**Drink Weaver’s at Curbside Coffee’s street cart, found at Off the Grid and parked weekdays in SoMa (they also specialize in Vietnamese coffee).