Experimentation: alive & well
at BAUME, Palo Alto

There are meals that live on in memory: a diorama of conversation, heartwarming food, and that misty glow from a fine bottle of wine. Then there are the game changers, meals that are an elaborate tapestry, weaving complex threads of creativity into an unexpected whole. True: experimentation is useless if it is not also delicious. But if the food is as impacting to the taste buds as to the eye, it borders on art.

Baume (pronounced “bo-meh”) vies for the latter category at a level not seen enough in the Bay Area. Having lived in numerous parts of the country, including near major food cities (New York and Los Angeles), and ever eating my way across the globe, it’s easy to list San Francisco as one of the world’s great food cities. We breathe food from our pores, the quality of ingredients and passion for good cooking as high as you’ll see anywhere… and has been for decades.

Here I never suffer for impeccable presentation, ethnic authenticity, or heartwarming perfection. Where I find myself hunting for inspiration is in the realm of, for lack of a better term,  molecular experimentation? Molecular gastronomy has been deemed by many as “out” (or according to Britain’s seminal chef Heston Blumenthal, “dead”), a “trend” that watched its glory days die with the closing of legendary El Bulli. But if, as Thomas Keller posits, the issue is in the terminology, since the ripple effect of Ferran Adria has so permeated restaurants everywhere as to become “standard”, then experimental cooking is far from irrelevant.

Though the Bay Area has pushed boundaries for decades, one finds countless perfect Neapolitan pizzas or whole animal menus here, but only a handful of molecular menus. Maybe it’s our fierce devotion to purity, our desire to be above pretense, our commitment to letting ingredients speak for themselves that makes the Bay Area somewhat skittish around fussy equipment, even as we played out sous vide and foams along with every other leading food city.

We have our masters (e.g. Manresa, Coi, Restaurant at Meadowood, Benu, the great French Laundry). We also claim that growing category of fine dining, molecular cooking in affordable, casual formats (AQ, Commonwealth), a godsend to those of us who want boundaries pushed but not under the weight of stuffiness or stratospheric costs.

The study of science and gastronomy has been greatly advanced by locals like Harold McGee and Elizabeth Cawdry Thomas. While we have made notable inroads historically and new ones of late, I wish for just a few more Alinea and Jose Andres’ The Bazaar-type restaurants on our varied culinary map.

Craving comfort and loathing pretension as much as anyone, I don’t want to see us shrink from boundary-pushing. There’s room for it all. With the “dumbing down” of fine dining everywhere in recent years, many fear appearing ostentatious. Hence, “upscale comfort food” has taken over formerly more creative menus ad nauseam. Such a climate makes moves like chef Dominique Crenn opening Atelier Crenn all the more bold.

Thankfully, Baume is not staying in the safe, comfort zone. Foams may be long over, but for an adventurous food lover, to sit down for three hours with merely a list of ingredients, nearly 20 bites and courses, is an exciting event.

Baume has become one of our best fine dining restaurants. It is artful, employing molecular processes alongside classic French technique. A list of ingredients like vadouvan, Calvados, kabocha, caviar, and like, tease but essentially give little intimation of what lies ahead.

Naming Baume one of 2010′s best new restaurant openings in both SF Guardian and the Perfect Spot, I found Chef Bruno Chemel’s vision inspiring, even as the restaurant was still discovering itself. Returning at the end of 2011, it is coming into its own. Prices reflect this “sense of self”. Formerly just over $100 per person, it’s now a whopping $168 without drink. Add on wine pairings and it’s $288 (or $368 if you desire the premium wine pairing). It’s one mighty expensive night out. But there are more courses than there were before, more intermezzos, bites, and delights at every turn. If you’re going to splurge, Baume is one of the more experimentally satisfying fine dining options in the Bay Area.

The setting is understated, modern, but still a little staid, even museum-like. Thankfully, intimacy and bright orange and brown tones keep it from being cold, with one small room of 4-5 tables and additional individual tables behind curtains. Service is seamless, though with this many courses, expect to see waitstaff often throughout the meal. I am always impressed when I can ask even a server filling my water about ingredients and all are well-versed on each dish. This level of care is crucial in a place like Baume. I’m glad to say their staff seem clued in on the vision.

Even a menu of expensive aperitifs (four, ranging from $15-28) is elevated since my last visit. A Baumetini ($18) is dramatically presented with sparkling sake poured over liquid nitrogen lilikoi/passion fruit “ice”, an icy haze erupting from the glass, while the taste is tart, intense, palate-cleansing.

On a white, indented ceramic block sits a round roll of fig pistachio “focaccia” – the bread course. Looking more akin to mochi, the warm, green roll perks up in yuzu glaze and salt flecks. Moving on to juicy beets and onions in panko crumbs with a potent shot of celery beet juice, it’s clear this meal won’t be typical.

In 2010, Chef Chemel’s most memorable dish was a 62 degree egg. This is the only dish I recognize from the year before, silky as ever, though presentation is different over lentils in a vermouth sabayon, topped with tiny sage leaves and toasted garlic bread crumbs.

Produce proves to be a realm where Chemel shines. A delicate Autumn salad is one of the most beautiful and finest tasting dishes. It combines bits of apple, pear, squash, and vivid red leaves with acorn wafers. The dish blossoms with a gorgeous pairing of 2005 Domaine des Baumard Clos du Papillion Savennieres from the Loire, a 100% Chenin Blanc that surprises with orchard fruit contrasted by mineral earthiness.

Other stand-out moments included the add-on course (yes, for even more money) of Alba white truffles from Piemonte, Italy, in season and available for a matter of days. They generously shaved a luxurious truffle over cauliflower tapioca risotto, pairing it with 2006 Morey-Coffinet Morgeot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru from Burgundy.

Fatty suckling pig in crispy skin is a winning main with braised endive and ginger sponge foam. Apple plays prominent  in both freeze-dried green apple slices and a sauce of balsamic Calvados (French apple brandy). A bright, acidic 1999 Heitz Cellars Trailside Vineyard Cabernet from Napa alternately displays a raisin richness reminiscent of port, making an ideal apple-pig companion.

Dessert comes in four parts, but it’s a liquid shot that leaves an impression: fizzy, young coconut water soda with a lychee float. After dessert, I was served house eggnog with nutmeg foam in an egg shell. Perfect for December, it’s a playfully refined statement to end a nearly three hour feast.

Additional courses:

- Caviar parfait with green apple, puffed rice, carrot, smoked creme fraiche, gold flecks
- Matsutake mushroom wasabi consomme with 2007 Chateau de Fonselette Blanc, Cotes-du-Rhone – surprisingly excellent pairing, bringing out sweet, mulled cider notes in wine
- Halibut in pumpkin scales with coconut vadouvan emulsion
- Lobster with vanilla coffee foam, lavender, mushroom, paired with 2009 Kistler Chardonnay Les Noisetiers, Sonoma Coast – wine is full bodied, with mineral, passion fruit notes
- Intermezzo: green apple sorbet over green apple sand with marjoram
- Grass-fed filet mignon with leek terrine, truffle jus, black shaved truffle, paired with 2007 Bernard Burgaud Cote Rotie, a Rhone Syrah with dry mouth feel, tart, earthy notes
- Cheese course: funky, earthy, French cow’s milk cheese, L’Ami du Chambertin served with grapes and frisee; creamy, earthy, raw sheep-cow’s milk cheese Il Menalat Robiola, Lombardia, Italy
- Dessert: Pink ruby red grapefruit mint gelee; a “Rocky Road” redux including vanilla orange marshmallow and liquid nitrogen-toasted walnuts; coconut passion fruit blanc mange with Madelienes on a bed of guava

Intriguing bites and openings in other parts of the Bay Area? All Spice is a new, upscale Indian restaurant in San Mateo. Though still working out kinks with some dishes not yet fully realized, the space is romantic and service engaging in a cottage I adored in its former iteration.

Oakland’s Camino is a space I love for different reasons: rustic, glowing, like a hall of an old English home with modern-day spirit. Returning after a year’s absence yielded an imperfect meal with sometimes small portions of dishes I’ve tasted better versions of elsewhere. Still, the overall package holds merit, particularly the drinks.

San Mateo

ALL SPICE - The magic of the enchanted cottage housing All Spice, enhanced by delightful husband-wife owners,  Sachin Chopra and Shoshana Wolff, is truly the highlight of this Indian gem. Promise radiates in almost every aspect, while service is professionally warm. I anticipate seeing how they evolve.

Without a liquor license yet, I partook of unusual drink offerings like sweet tea masala-infused water ($2), grapefruit-rosemary punch ($5), and, my favorite, a light but creamy passion fruit mint lassi ($2.50).

A starter of lavender cumin scallops ($12), may not have been mind-blowing but the trio of scallops were generous in size, while bacon bits over black cardamom pureed potato are inspired accents. Farro Chaat ($8) is aesthetic, shaped in a circle of wheat over purple Peruvian potatoes and cauliflower with chaat masala vinaigrette. Despite it’s beauty, it was served cold, tasting just a little bland.

Bacon-wrapped rack of lamb ($23) in sundried tomato red chile sauce with mushroom marmalade was a solid, savory dish. Poached black cod ($23) was a little salty but had the right texture while rutabaga puree and spiced southern greens underneath were downright addictive.

Chili mango bread pudding ($7) with ginger creme anglaise disappointed without a hint of the chili I was hoping for and dried mango bits rather than fresh, warm mango. Presentation stole the show with blackberries dotting the surface. A few tweaks and it could be memorable.

Faring better was a trio of house-made ice creams ($6). A bed of nuts and dried fruits under the scoops were a bit of a taste and texture distraction from the flavors of coconut curry, lemon thyme, chocolate anise, but overall it’s a winning finish, particularly the anise kick of the dark chocolate.

Oakland

CAMINO - The main stand-outs at my last visit to Camino were the small but well-prepared drinks. A simple Cocchi Americano on the rocks with a twist of orange ($7) is fine way to get the appetite flowing – a sweetly bitter aperitif. I can’t help but love a Camino Negroni ($9), made with with Gran Classico instead of Campari. This has been done all over SF for awhile, yet remains a lush version of a Negroni.

Mezcal works twice: light and fluffy with egg white, lemon, honey and rosemary in Mezcal Drink ($10); smoky and slate-like in the Oaxacan Old-Fashioned ($10 – reposado, mezcal, agave, Angostura bitters). It all flows with dishes like grilled rabbit and pig’s head with pig trotter fritters,  sauerkraut and fresh horseradish ($11), the best dish of the night.

Best Restaurant Openings 2010,

Bay Area

In Top Tastes I list the top ten new restaurant openings of the year in San Francisco. Here I list an additional four best new Bay Area openings: one in the South Bay, two in the East Bay, one in Wine Country. In the midst of Oakland’s continued proliferation as a dining hotspot and the new downtown Napa reign of celebrity chefs from Tyler Florence to Morimoto, here are a few that rose above, in alphabetical order.

BAUME, Palo Alto
In the realm of all-senses-engaged gastronomy temples like Chicago’s Alinea or the whimsical decadence of Jose Andres The Bazaar in LA, San Francisco is shockingly lacking. We have the talent and creativity here of the best food cities in the world. But it seems at times there can be a fear of getting too experimental. Thankfully, in 2010 Chef Bruno Chemel (formerly of Chez TJ) opened Baume in a non-descript, ’70’s-looking Palo Alto building.

Yes, it’s crazy expensive (tasting menus), special occasion dining, but it stands out with well-orchestrated service and a simple but striking dining room of elegant orange and warm browns. You are teased with ingredients, like liquid nitrogen, curry, leek, seaweed, endive, then await the presentation like a gift. The best part is that Baume is not merely molecular showmanship… dishes are rich with flavor and heart. Don’t miss Chef Bruno’s 62-degree sous-vide egg. I had it with wild mushroom and Noilly Prat dry vermouth foam paired with shots of fresh celery and lime juice punctuated by roasted rosemary stalks. Currently, he’s serving the egg with lichee, lilikoi, espresso, chocolate. I’m intrigued.

GATHER, Berkeley
A December 2009 opening, Gather is the best thing to come along in Berkeley in ages. It reads typical Bay Area at first glance: local, sustainable, organic everything, from meats and veggies to spirits, wine and beer. The rounded corner room, with bustling, open space in full view of the kitchen is holistically casual and urban.

And, yes, everything you have heard about the raved-about vegan “charcuterie” is true. Decidedly non-vegetarian, I marvel at this artwork array of vegetables on a wood slab, five delicately-prepared (and delicious) combinations for $16. You might have roasted baby beets with shaved fennel, dill, blood orange, horseradish almond puree and pistachio as one item, then King Trumpet mushroom crudo with parsnip-pine nut sea palm risotto as another. Exec Chef Sean Baker and team do meat right, too. Whether sausage pizza with pork belly and chiles, or house-cured ham topped with crescenza cheeze and cardoon-walnut salsa, carnivores will leave happy. Gather displays an ethos and presentation one can only dream of being a standard everywhere.

PLUM, Oakland

Easily the best new opening in Oakland in 2010,, Daniel Patterson’s long-anticipated Plum delivers his impeccable technique in heartwarming food. Despite communal seating on uncomfortable wood stools, one is warmed by skillfully prepared food under $20. Chef Charlie Parker recently took the reigns, serving impeccably nuanced soups like ham hock & brussels sprouts or turnip apple soup with miso. Deviled eggs benefit from caperberry tarragon relish, while a rich beef cheek and oxtail burger welcomes the contrast of accompanying Autumn pickles. Patterson’s power continues to be used for gourmet good, and this time Oakland is the recipient.

FARMSTEAD, St. Helena
Farmstead may not be the most exciting restaurant to open in Wine Country in 2010 but I find it among the most satisfying. Part of Long Meadow Ranch, a welcome package of winery, poultry farm, herb garden, grass-fed beef ranch, and olive press, it’s in a modern, converted barn with fireplace, tractors and chairs on the outdoor patio. Inside it’s funky light fixtures, cavernous ceilings and leather booths.

Their grass-fed beef is, in a word, exemplary. It makes for a decent steak, but my money goes towards the meltingly-good cheeseburger. On a house potato bun, it’s lathered with addictive mustard (they don’t skimp on the horseradish), cheddar and arugula. Order “potted” pig: tender, shredded pig packed in a mason jar with a layer of lard on top, served with toasts and that fabulous mustard. Another humane, locally-sourced restaurant, Farmstead brings a casual playfulness I don’t see often enough in Wine Country.

SAN CARLOS

THE REFUGE – Much has already been said about the famed pastrami at San Carlos’ Belgian bar and hearty sandwich/burger spot, The Refuge. Jan Newberry of San Francisco magazine rightly lists it as one of the best in her sandwich guide.

All I can say, is get there if you haven’t. These are among the best of these kinds of sandwiches on the West Coast (yes, I’ve had Brent’s and Langer’s, et. al.)  The beer selection is excellent, especially for the South Bay. Belgians and sours flow. And, yes, the pastrami sandwiches, whether plain ($13), with Swiss and mustard ($14), toasted slaw #19 ($16) with coleslaw and Russian Dressing, or as a reuben ($16) with sauerkraut, Swiss and Russian Dressing, all slay you with chunky, meaty tenderness. It may not be the best I’ve ever had, but it’s up there.

In the wake of the pastrami hype, however, I was shocked to find I loved the Roast Brisket of Beef ($12) more. The beef is sliced thin and in tangy sweet Carolina-style sauce with a lather of horseradish cream to give the already melting combo of warm bread and meat even more lusciousness.

On the ‘lighter’ side, you can have your meat, Prosciutto in this case, with Peaches ($14) as a salad. But you’re missing out on a simple yet profound pleasure if you skip that beef sandwich.

BERKELEY

SLOW – There’s a fairly recent, winning little neighboring trio on this block University Ave. Husband/wife restaurant, eVe, utilizes fine dining technique at a steal, while next door Chocolatier Blue creates delicate chocolates and hot chocolates. Add in the newest member, Slow, and you have the trio. Their connection is no coincidence: they all know each other from days working in Charlie Trotter’s kitchen.

Nebraska native Kyle Anderson is the chef at Slow, recreating his fine dining background (which also includes a stint at none other than Daniel Boulud’s Daniel in NY) in a casual Berkeley take-out setting. There are a few stools to eat in, a peaceful back garden, and you can order anything to-go, all under $12.

The experience is not equivalent to eating at a sit-down restaurant, but for take-out, the quality is welcome. Braised Short Rib ($12) is the highest-priced dish (and most popular in its few opening weeks), served with mascarpone polenta, tender escabeche carrots and roasted cippolini onions.

I was less enthused with the Stuffed (with eggplant, peppers, mango) Portobello Mushroom ($10) over potatoes and cauliflower, which was well-prepared but a little bland compared to the rest despite a mango perk. Chilled Mussels ($6) in citrus broth make a refreshing starter, as do White Anchovies with marinated olives ($6). The purity of a straightforward Heirloom Tomato/Basil/Mozzarella Salad ($5) ended up being the most satisfying dish, colorful with green and red tomatoes. A dessert finish of Seasonal Cobbler ($3) evoked Fall and home cooking.

SAN MATEO – Acqua Pazza Ristorante

Despite the suburban setting, the spirit of servers and food is authentically Italian at San Mateo’s Acqua Pazza. Owned by three Rosano brothers (out of nine children!) from Naples, they brought their Mama’s own recipes from Italia, as well as technique learned at Naples’ Scuola Albergheria and Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s Vong in London.

Amalfi Coast photography lines the hallway and the dining room surroundings are clean and crisp in shades of deep blue.

The red sauce in a Zucchini Parmigiana starter ($10.95) is textbook delicious from their Mamma Carmela’s recipe. Half Moon Bay zucchini keeps it local, with plenty of meltingly good Buffalo Mozzarella.

Gnocchi Gorgonzola ($14.95) is also their Mamma’s recipe, a fine rendition of what is one of my most beloved Italian dishes. Cherry tomatoes cut the rich, heavy cream sauce, the overall effect happily fattening.

Vitello Milanese ($18.95) is a classic rendition of veal scallopini pounded flat, breaded and in a lemon dressing. A heap of arugula salad atop it added a healthy aspect. Even if it wasn’t the best rendition of the dish I’ve ever had, it worked.

A Bellini ($8.50) was a refreshing sparkling wine starter, though I can’t help but lament the common use of peach nectar instead of fresh peaches, which is less common but tastes significantly better. House wines are affordable ($6.50) and generous, served in a little carafe – easily two glasses worth. Whether Chardonnay, Chianti or Cabernet, they did the trick, as did a straightforward Affogato for dessert.

Hints of Italy live in the streets of San Mateo…

OAKLAND

Encuentro – One of three owners behind this new-ish Oakland vegetarian is Millennium exec chef, Eric Tucker, long a standard-maker in vegetarian cuisine. The food here is inventive, even if portions are tiny.

Just a few blocks off Jack London Square, the high-ceilinged space is modern and airy, though a little stiff (as is service, in some ways), but the setting highlights bright dishes like Panzanella Salad ($9) with roasted celery root, beets, Gorgonzola, pine nuts, winter greens and crispy bread cubes.

A mere whiff of a bite, there’s two pieces of Bruschetta ($5) available with different toppings. I was won over by Avocado, Cilantro, Black Salt & Olive Oil Bruschetta with an addictive chili jam.

Just added to the menu that day, I found  Maple Mustard-glazed Tempeh “Bacon” Sandwich ($9) surprisingly comforting: warm, on the softest of wheat rolls. For one skeptical of fake “meat” substitutions (there just is no substitution for the real thing), this didn’t taste anything like bacon but was a worthy sandwich nonetheless. Stuffed Prunes ($4), with either goat cheese or macadamia nut pate, were good but didn’t stand out as much as other dishes.

A highlight was a  Rich Truffled Mushroom Pecan Pate ($11). The portion is delicate (read: small), but mini crostinis, grain mustard, sweet prune jam, and caper berries accented a lush pate that was almost smoother and more crowd-pleasing than some meat pates I’ve tasted. This dish showcases what is special about Encuentro that you can’t find elsewhere.

An interesting wine pairing came in the form of a toasty, crisp Irish Monkey Chardonnay ($7 a glass), made in Davis, CA, of all places, with tasting room/offices in Oakland.

SOUTH BAY

Cafe Gibraltar – After a day of poetry and walks on the beach in Pescadero and Half Moon Bay, dinner at Gibraltar is a relaxing finish, idyllically perched with ocean view and breezy, Mediterranean menu. Service is effusive, even if there was an awfully complex pile-up and wait getting a number of tables seated at the front door.

The space and crowd feel a tad suburban, but Moroccan tables on the far wall with pillows, floor seating and separate curtains, add a little intrigue to the dining room. The fresh, pleasing food is served in larger portions than expected, so order accordingly. Even with “light” crudo and seafood dishes, I was stuffed and would have ordered less if I’d known.

Bisque de Crevettes ($9) is a creamy, rich shrimp bisque seasoned with apples, sweet onions, dill and white wine. The shrimp nearly melt with tenderness and dill plays a dominant role. Ahi Tuna Crudo ($15) was generously portioned: a row of delicate, flash-seared ahi with an avocado salad that was too heavily drenched in a lime/ginger/habanero dressing.

Fairing better is Ahtapot Salata ($16), a Turkish beauty of a dish with plump octopus and calamari, grilled, then sautéed with chile, garlic, herbs and lemon, mixed with red onion, tomatoes, watercress. I tasted harissa-like spices and marveled at the meaty heft of the seafood. On the Moroccan front, they cook a lovely Tajin B’il Hut ($24), served in a proper tajine, with large cuts of Hawaiian blue snapper baked in a wood oven with olives, potatoes, baby onions, preserved lemons and tomatoes (I didn’t taste the lemons). Atop couscous and in a chermoula broth, it’s one of the great tajine dishes in the Bay Area.

With a nice wine list offering a number of zippy Portuguese or Alsace whites to accompany all that seafood, I left satisfied, though maybe not as impressed as years of raves about this place led me to believe… at least until I ate warm house bread dipped in sweet, aged basalmic and olive oil.

BERKELEY

• Gather – Yes, it’s local, sustainable, organic (even the spirits, wine and beer). Though that’s happily typical in the Bay Area, I venture to say that Gather, open only since December, already operates like a hardly “typical”, fully-realized restaurant. In a large, rounded corner room, the bustling, open space is in full view of the kitchen, a muted showpiece in the center of activity. It’s casual, holistic and chic, all at the same time.

Cocktails stand out with organic spirits (like Papagayo rum), without sacrificing craftsmanship and taste. Portions are small but classically so, in the proper sizes cocktails once were served. Greg’s Pisco Sour ($10) is served in a champagne flute with Square One cucumber vodka, Marian Farms pisco, lemon, lime, with shaved hibiscus over the top of egg white foam.

Humo Dulce ($12), 4 Copas tequila, Del Maguey Crema de Mezcal, lime, pineapple gum syrup, captures the proper smokiness of the mezcal and doesn’t play it sweet. Wines and beers are local and organic, from Bay Area south to Santa Cruz, north to Wine Country and Mendocino.

Not your typical grilled squid dish, Monterey Bay Squid ($12), on Forbidden black rice, with aioli, mint, chili, bacon, is a sumptuous small plate with layers and warmth. All I can say is “wow” for 28-month House-Cured Ham ($13) with grilled Castelfranco, marinated crescenza, cardoon-walnut salsa. The crescenza cheese is warm and melting over a delightful, thinly sliced ham, prosciutto-like, ribboned with fat. One of the best dishes here.

The piece de resistance is Vegan “Charcuterie” ($14)… and this comes from a decidedly non-vegetarian. As soon as this artwork array of vegetables come out on a wood slab, you know you’re about to experience something unique. If only veggies were always this flavor-packed, we’d eat them without complaint. Completely worth the price for a vegetable extravaganza. On the platter was:
- Heirloom carrots, green garlic confit, mint, English pea-tarragon puree
- Grilled asparagus, almond-pepper puree, Spanish red spring garlic, “aioli”
- Roasted sunchokes, Rub Red crescent potatoes, fried onion cabernet vinaigrette, oyster mushrooms
- Roasted baby beets, shaved fennel, dill, blood orange, horseradish almond puree, pistachio
- Fried tofu skin bruschetta, avocado, spicy baby fennel escabeche.

Those of us who eat for a living can get burnt out on the pizza insanity of recent years… that is, until we have another great one. I did not come here for pizza but as soon as I saw one, I had to order it. Puffy crust bubbles up in charred mounds filled with doughy bread and the house Sausage Pizza ($17) did not disappoint, laden with spring onion salsa, oregano, corno di capra (sweet peppers). A Petrale Sole special ($22) was a flaky, grilled fish with greens and lemon, rustically presented. It’s always work picking out little bones but the dish recalled whole fish I’ve had in Switzerland, fresh from the lakes.

With little room left for dessert, I still managed to bask in the light cream of Citrus Rice Pudding ($7.50) with uber-tart Meyer lemon frozen yogurt and cinnamon-dusted graham shortbread. This early on, I project that Gather is not only one of the East Bay’s best new openings but already one of its best restaurants.

OAKLAND

• Hibiscus is one of those chic Uptown newcomers with rustic walls and homey notes mixed with modern sensibilities serving “upscale” Caribbean food. I absolutely love the space, especially the charming bar area, which looks pretty different from the spacious dining room. It’s inviting, as is the sweet staff. I want to be crazy about the food, too, and I think it shows great promise. The restaurant is still in its early weeks of opening and should become more even over time. For now, ingredients are of high quality, even as some dishes stand out more than others. Exec Chef Sarah Kirnon plays with a range of culinary influences from Trinidad to the Congo. Jerk Cornish Hen ($10.25) is prepared Maroon-style (Jamaican), with luscious coconut-braised Sea Island peas and Red Fresno salsa. This was my favorite dish.

Super spicy Crab & Grits ($9) turns the traditional Southern dish on its head with Caribbean spices, peppers and plenty of heat. Saltfish & Ackee ($8.75), the national dish of Jamaica, comes with sweet plantains, contrasting with salty cod and heat intensity of garlic oil. Split-Pea Fritters ($7.50) with tamarind sauce weren’t as flavorful or texturally interesting as I’d hoped.

A simple Parish Punch ($7) is a mix of El Dorado Rum and house Ginger Limeade, initially a bit sweet, but once the salty heat of the meal kicks in, a refreshing soother. With ingredients and animals sourced locally and sustainably, not to mention the welcome pleasure of something different, this place has the potential of becoming another downtown Oakland gem.

SOUTH SAN FRANCISCO

• South San Francisco’s Xiao Long Bao Kitchen makes some mean xiao long bao (Shanghai soup dumplings). They’re downright addictive and among the better I’ve had locally, warm broth oozing over ground pork and chewy dumpling wrapper. $6.95 for eight good-sized dumplings is a deal. If you order one giant one, good luck trying to eat it.