Citrus Rice Pudding at Gather in Berkeley

BERKELEY

Gather's lights

• Gather – Yes, it’s local, sustainable, organic (even the spirits, wine and beer). Though that’s happily typical in the Bay Area, I venture to say that Gather, open only since December, already operates like a hardly “typical”, fully-realized restaurant. In a large, rounded corner room, the bustling, open space is in full view of the kitchen, a muted showpiece in the center of activity. It’s casual, holistic and chic, all at the same time.

Cocktails stand out with organic spirits (like Papagayo rum), without sacrificing craftsmanship and taste. Portions are small but classically so, in the proper sizes cocktails once were served. Greg’s Pisco Sour ($10) is served in a champagne flute with Square One cucumber vodka, Marian Farms pisco, lemon, lime, with shaved hibiscus over the top of egg white foam.

Organic cocktails

Humo Dulce ($12), 4 Copas tequila, Del Maguey Crema de Mezcal, lime, pineapple gum syrup, captures the proper smokiness of the mezcal and doesn’t play it sweet. Wines and beers are local and organic, from Bay Area south to Santa Cruz, north to Wine Country and Mendocino.

Not your typical grilled squid dish, Monterey Bay Squid ($12), on Forbidden black rice, with aioli, mint, chili, bacon, is a sumptuous small plate with layers and warmth. All I can say is “wow” for 28-month House-Cured Ham ($13) with grilled Castelfranco, marinated crescenza, cardoon-walnut salsa. The crescenza cheese is warm and melting over a delightful, thinly sliced ham, prosciutto-like, ribboned with fat. One of the best dishes here.

Stunning Vegan "Charcuterie" Platter

The piece de resistance is Vegan “Charcuterie” ($14)… and this comes from a decidedly non-vegetarian. As soon as this artwork array of vegetables come out on a wood slab, you know you’re about to experience something unique. If only veggies were always this flavor-packed, we’d eat them without complaint. Completely worth the price for a vegetable extravaganza. On the platter was:
- Heirloom carrots, green garlic confit, mint, English pea-tarragon puree
- Grilled asparagus, almond-pepper puree, Spanish red spring garlic, “aioli”
- Roasted sunchokes, Rub Red crescent potatoes, fried onion cabernet vinaigrette, oyster mushrooms
- Roasted baby beets, shaved fennel, dill, blood orange, horseradish almond puree, pistachio
- Fried tofu skin bruschetta, avocado, spicy baby fennel escabeche.

Awesome house-cured ham w/ crescenza cheese

Those of us who eat for a living can get burnt out on the pizza insanity of recent years… that is, until we have another great one. I did not come here for pizza but as soon as I saw one, I had to order it. Puffy crust bubbles up in charred mounds filled with doughy bread and the house Sausage Pizza ($17) did not disappoint, laden with spring onion salsa, oregano, corno di capra (sweet peppers). A Petrale Sole special ($22) was a flaky, grilled fish with greens and lemon, rustically presented. It’s always work picking out little bones but the dish recalled whole fish I’ve had in Switzerland, fresh from the lakes.

With little room left for dessert, I still managed to bask in the light cream of Citrus Rice Pudding ($7.50) with uber-tart Meyer lemon frozen yogurt and cinnamon-dusted graham shortbread. This early on, I project that Gather is not only one of the East Bay’s best new openings but already one of its best restaurants.

OAKLAND

Saltfish & Ackee

• Hibiscus is one of those chic Uptown newcomers with rustic walls and homey notes mixed with modern sensibilities serving “upscale” Caribbean food. I absolutely love the space, especially the charming bar area, which looks pretty different from the spacious dining room. It’s inviting, as is the sweet staff. I want to be crazy about the food, too, and I think it shows great promise. The restaurant is still in its early weeks of opening and should become more even over time. For now, ingredients are of high quality, even as some dishes stand out more than others. Exec Chef Sarah Kirnon plays with a range of culinary influences from Trinidad to the Congo. Jerk Cornish Hen ($10.25) is prepared Maroon-style (Jamaican), with luscious coconut-braised Sea Island peas and Red Fresno salsa. This was my favorite dish.

Hibiscus' Jerk Cornish Hen

Super spicy Crab & Grits ($9) turns the traditional Southern dish on its head with Caribbean spices, peppers and plenty of heat. Saltfish & Ackee ($8.75), the national dish of Jamaica, comes with sweet plantains, contrasting with salty cod and heat intensity of garlic oil. Split-Pea Fritters ($7.50) with tamarind sauce weren’t as flavorful or texturally interesting as I’d hoped.

A simple Parish Punch ($7) is a mix of El Dorado Rum and house Ginger Limeade, initially a bit sweet, but once the salty heat of the meal kicks in, a refreshing soother. With ingredients and animals sourced locally and sustainably, not to mention the welcome pleasure of something different, this place has the potential of becoming another downtown Oakland gem.

Xia Long Bao in South SF

SOUTH SAN FRANCISCO

• South San Francisco’s Xiao Long Bao Kitchen makes some mean xiao long bao (Shanghai soup dumplings). They’re downright addictive and among the better I’ve had locally, warm broth oozing over ground pork and chewy dumpling wrapper. $6.95 for eight good-sized dumplings is a deal. If you order one giant one, good luck trying to eat it.

BAUME – Palo Alto Molecular Gastronomy

Minimalist presentation cheese plate: Swiss Tete de Moine comes in shaved curls that melt like velvet or buttery wings, while a fritter is oozing with the same cheese, accented with yuzu marmalade

As far as I’m concerned, there’s room for it all. I crave artistic, mind-blowing experimentation as much as I hunger for pure, simple comfort food. We excel in the latter in San Francisco but I don’t see enough of the former. There’s Coi and Daniel Patterson bringing us fine dining in ways we won’t see it done anywhere else. But where are the all-senses-engaged gastronomy temples like Chicago’s Alinea or the whimsical decadence of Jose Andres The Bazaar in LA (my review and photos coming next issue)?

"Baume-tini": sparkling sake with bursting passion-fruit lilikoi pearls

Thankfully, the Bay Area just gained a molecular gastronomy gem from Chef Bruno Chemel (formerly of Chez TJ in Mountain View), who opened Baume in a non-descript, ’70′s-looking Palo Alto building on California Street.

This is expensive, special occasion dining, but only weeks into opening, I’d already say it’s one of the more rewarding options for the price in all of the Bay Area. Service is well-orchestrated, timely and warm, each server informed and seemingly happy to be there.

In a simple but striking dining room of brightly elegant orange and warm browns, choose from five ($78), 10 ($108) or 15 courses ($158), plus more for wine pairings (I heard the table next to me ask to split a wine pairing and was delighted they accommodated – ideal for tasting but not wanting to go overboard).

Foie gras comes with apricot miso, a sliver of candied pineapple and a hoppy shot of house pineapple beer

As a guest of the restaurant last month, I was offered the 10-course meal and ready for whatever Chemel might serve. I hear he may slightly alter a dish each night, and, naturally changes the menu often. As an eater who’s about food first, I crave adventure and artistry… but never at the expense of taste or with pretension. Chemel manages to succeed on all fronts and I can imagine his menu only ripening with time.

The meal hit its highest note early with a 62 degree sous-vide egg (this type of a dish is also a highlight at Coi) served in a bowl with wild mushroom and Noilly Prat (French dry vermouth) foam. I closed my eyes, letting out a moan of delight at first silky bite. Paired with shots of fresh celery and lime juice with roasted rosemary stalks, it was the best course of the night.

Thoughtful wine pairings took it further… and at quite a range. It could be anything from a local 2008 Viognier from Jazz Cellars, to Blandy’s 10 year Malmsey Madeira with dessert. I especially savored two Chardonnays: first, an ’06 Collovray-Terrier “Vielles Vignes” Pouilly-Fuisse (mineral initially but after sitting there awhile, became buttery). Then, a 2007 Windy Oaks “One-Acre Estate” Chard from the Santa Cruz Mountains, with a mineral acidity reminiscent of white Burgundy wines.

I’ll share just some of the beauties of the meal here through my photos…

The piece de resistance: 62 degree egg with celery lime juice shots

Paper-thin nori-shoyu flatbread with tofu parsley spread and an aged balsamic "butter" so addictive I ate every drop

Striped bass over bouillabaisse gelee, topped with a transparent purple potato chip

Asparagus Salade in shallot vinaigrette - simple, gorgeous with Parmesan, edible flowers, creamy hollandaise pearls

Palate cleanser of lavender foam frozen with liquid nitrogen - nitrogen 'smoke' playfully expels from your mouth

Grass-fed filet is prepared sous-vide, completely dry yet miraculously juicy with orange vinaigrette and spring onion

A dessert extravaganza, from pastry chef Ryan Shelton, is an ode to the strawberry: mini donut with strawberry gelee; chocolate tarragon ganache and burnt almond “rocks’’, and my favorite: a dry strawberry ice cream soda with sorbet-like float

Fireside table

DOLLIE MARIE’S

1602 South El Camino Real
San Mateo, CA  94402
650-638-9238
www.dolliemaries.com

Dollie Marie's enchanting entrance

I can never get enough of that unique-to-the-US cuisine: Southern cooking. Enter Dollie Marie’s, delightful, boisterous Chef Gator’s latest, whose restaurants I’ve had the pleasure of eating at through the years (and sadly saw close), from Noe Valley’s Alcatraces to Gator’s in downtown San Mateo. When you add in white suit jackets and a whisper of fine dining elegance at reasonable prix fixe prices ($38 for three courses or $49 for four – your choice of dishes), I’m lured in.

Then there’s an amuse bouche (crawfish bisque, thank you very much!), a palate cleanser (orange mint sorbet), homemade candies, and courses cooked with love and finesse, all in a gorgeous cottage, fireside glowing, each room lined with photos of Chef Gator’s family through the generations (including his mother, the restaurant’s namesake). It’s the complete package and I’m won over.

Lovely restored floors

I’m already thinking about when I can next make it to this new gem in the Bay Area dining scene, tucked away off El Camino Real in a non-descript part of San Mateo. For less than the cost of many mid-range San Francisco restaurants, it’s a Southern feast to linger over.

There’s the finest Frog Legs I’ve ever eaten, gently fried and juicy with flavorful black-eyed pea gravy and cheesy dirty rice loaded with bacon and green onion. 

Rich, luscious Alligator & Caramelized Onion Gratin is baked under a puff pastry shell with fontina cheese. There’s also classic Turtle Soup, giant and delicious Oysters pan-fried in cornmeal with a fabulous remoulade, a fine Shrimp & Grits with plump Gulf shrimp, and desserts like Gator’s Bananas Foster or a comforting Sweet Potato & Apple Cobbler with cinnamon ice cream.

Crawfish Bisque amuse

A Blackened Catfish entree is quite tasty and flaky, but I never quite go for the heavy pepper inflections of this type of dish. This version is handled deftly (joyously resting on a bed of crawfish risotto), but I still could do with less pepper. Due to the lack of availability of proper rabbit when I was there, the rabbit entree wasn’t on the menu (I appreciate them holding out for a better meat) but it sounds amazing: Braised Rabbit with Jack Daniels maple syrup gravy. Next time.

The flavors of the South that I crave  are here, done with a gourmet touch and the kind of quality ingredients we’re used to in the Bay Area. I certainly love Oakland’s Pican (despite a rather sterile, corporate-looking dining room) and SF’s gorgeous, jazz haven, 1300 on Fillmore… both are pricey, Southern-influenced menus with a CA touch and I’m so glad they’re here.

Gentle pink tones

Though Gator has that Cali touch as an Oakland native, his family’s Southern roots show in a more traditional but fresh menu I enjoyed the likes of in Charleston and New Orleans. This one feels like the real deal and worlds removed from the bustling spirit of Pican and 1300 on Fillmore. You get more for your money here: a delicious multi-course meal, warm and inviting, with fine dining hints.

The intimacy and quiet of the cottage is like dining in a friend’s Southern home, complete with charm and comfort. The wine list is so-so and service sweet, attentive and still working itself out. Gator is ever jovial and welcoming, and his wife, Mary Ann, makes sure you’re taken care of. All in all, I’m thrilled to see this unique addition to the Bay Area dining scene. You’re transported to the elegant South… where it feels like a special occasion, even if it’s not.

Oh, those frog legs!

Brazil Cafe in Berkeley

Top Tastes is my usual run-down of tastes over the past two weeks. Rather than a list of all-time favorites (another thing altogether), it’s highlights since my last newsletter, often from new openings. Many don’t make the cut, being a revisit written about before or simply not as stand-out as dishes mentioned.

SAVORY – MEAT

Tri-tip Sandwich & Mango Smoothie at Brazil Cafe

• Berkeley’s Brazil Cafe feels like vacation… hit the original, street-side stand (they now have an indoor restaurant down the street), draped in palm leaves, with umbrella-covered tables, faded posters of Rio, a surfboard menu, and friendly owner, Pedro Robin, who seems like he lives a perpetual vacation. A Mango or Avocado Smoothie washes down the insanely tasty (fast becoming legendary around Berkeley) Tri-Tip Sandwich ($7.99), doused in addictive cilantro garlic sauce. Tender, juicy tri-tip is loaded with pineapple, jalapeno, green olive, tomato, onion, lettuce – a small bit of each for overall balance. Really, perfection in a sandwich. I’m salivating just thinking about it.

Naked Lunch's Foie Gras/Duck Prosciutto Sandwich

• Though I think $15 is an insane amount to pay for a sandwich of this size and from a lunch window next to Enrico’s in North Beach, Naked Lunch (skilled Chef Ian Begg, of now-closed Cafe Majestic) serves some truly gourmet sandwiches at a worthy $8-9… until you get to the mother lode: the $15 Foie Gras Torchon & Duck Prosciutto Sandwich with Heirloom tomato, butter lettuce, white truffle oil. You might still be hungry afterwards, but it’s well worth trying – a luscious, luxurious, if spendy, sandwich.

SAVORY – VEGETARIAN

Bunny Chao at Three Papayas/Doc's Clock

•  It was with humor and reverence that I entered Doc’s Clock blissfully greasy bar on a Sunday, ordered a peppery Bloody Mary ($8) with a tender piece of tri-tip and two stalks of asparagus (all of which bartender, Ryan, grills himself some Sundays), placed it on my Michael Jackson (Jackson 5 days) placemat and opened up a Bible to the Three Papayas menu inside. Three Papayas is chef Ta-Wei Lin, who just launched Vietnamese brunch every Sunday afternoon from 12-4pm at Doc’s. Portions are huge and all $8 (about 5 of them). Chef Lin garnishes plates with seasonal, delicious fruits like figs, passion fruit and, of course, papayas. Lin’s creative plates are fun enough to look at, but even more fun to eat. I dig the Vietnamese Crepe (vegetarian or with pork & shrimp), Papaya Salad, and for cardamom and daal (lentil) lovers, I recommend the unusual Bunny Chao, a hefty, hollowed-out loaf of bread (with filling piled neatly on the side) overflowing with green lentils, veggies and cardamom-pods. Amen and hallelujah!

Aziza's Moroccan "Taco"

•  Probably my favorite dishes (at least of the few I was able to try due to 30 minute+ lines) at the madly-packed SF Street Food Festival were Aziza’s.  Their “Bite”, a Squid Salad ($3) with maras pepper, preserved lemon, cabbage, mint and cilantro, was explosively bright, and their “Forks & Fingers” main dish, a Moroccan “Taco” ($8), was a thick, grilled flatbread drizzled with harissa, filled with yogurt and veggies – or lamb, if you so desired. Yum.

SAVORY – SEAFOOD

Sakoon's colorful bar

•  The trek down to Mountain View provides something we don’t see a lot of in SF, despite our excellent Tenderloin ‘curry houses’: upscale, creative Indian food with cocktails (yes, Amber attempts this). New Sakoon is sleekly designed, with upstairs lounge and striking fiber-optic light fixtures oozing a magical glow. I’m partial to the Kerela Fish Curry ($18), a finely cooked sea bass with shrimp and scallops joining in, covered in creamy coconut curry sauce. It partners well with The Mistress of Spice cocktail ($8): Cuervo Traditional tequila, Rhum Clement Creole Shrubb, 5-spiced mango nectar, lemon, salt rim. I couldn’t get enough of their Naan – especially Rosemary Pesto.

Gulf Prawns at Nettie's

•  Since it opened, I’ve had a problem with the overpricing at Nettie’s Crab Shack, much as I adore the bright, New England-meets-California decor. In a recent re-visit, I found a more affordable way to eat here than $17 Fish & Chips or $36 Lobster Rolls (ouch! Even in NYC, mid-20′s is the highest I paid for the best I’ve ever had at Pearl’s Oyster Bar). I started with Blueberry Skillet Cornbread in maple syrup ($5 for two big pieces), four juicy Gulf Prawns on a skewer ($10), a lovely Halibut Fish Taco ($5) and a perfectly grilled Sardine ($4). Four items for the cost of one of the main dish highlights. The outdoor grill gets going at noon and with a $7 Boston Swizzle (bourbon & lemon in a frosty, julep-like cup), it’s a pleasant lunch.

Jai Yun's Octopus Salad

•  Jai Yun is a Chinatown classic known for its multi-course, Chinese feasts - starting at $55 a person. Those dinners add up but a cheaper alternative is try it at lunch on a weekday where a mere $18 gets you five starter tastes (pickled vegetables, ginger and other delights) and 6 dishes, many of which are served as part of the dinners. I’m such a fan of being able to taste many things, rather than being limited to one or two, and this lunch delivered. My favorite was an Octopus Salad, punchy with chilis and a flavorful broth.

SWEET

Strawberry Fig Crumble at Starbelly

•  I recommend brand new Starbelly (from owners of wildly successful Beretta), because new opening kinks and all, it’s already an ideal urban comfort food spot with fine beers on tap, gracious service and reasonably-priced gourmet goods (hello, Corn with mascarpone & garlic!) A first go-round at Starbelly led me to a finale that topped it all: Warm Strawberry & Fig Crumble ($7) with my beloved Humprhy Slocombe’s balsamic-caramel ice cream. 

•  Summer (and ANY time) is the right time for ice cream and Tara’s is a happy addition to the Bay Area, established in Sante Fe but moved to Berkeley last year. Thankfully, there’s an SF option now as well as the Berkeley shop – you can get Tara’s at the daily Island Earth Farmer’s Market inside the Metreon. Not only are Tara’s ice creams unique, full of flavor and organic, but the staff have excellent pairing suggestions – flavors you might think wouldn’t go together, end up making wonderful partners. Why not try Basil and Banana?  Sweet Corn and Sage? Black Sesame stands strong alone. Ask them.

•  Not being a cream puff lover, it says a lot when one wins me over… I tried a few at new Pacific Puffs, but my ‘hats off’ to the Classic ($3.25), oozing vanilla custard, crowned with chocolate. From the owners’ long-held family recipe, it does them proud.

Aziza's Squid Salad at SF Street Food Fest

CLASSIC FILMS at Palo Alto’s STANFORD THEATRE

Thanks to my classic film-obsessed Mother, one of my favorite pastimes is watching old movies. I may not know as much as my Mom does about all things classic film, but I do have an in-depth appreciation & knowledge of film in general, and the classics in particular. I feel lucky to be able to partake in the incomparable line-up of popular and rare (often not available on DVD/video) old movies shown daily at the Stanford Theatre in downtown Palo Alto.

This historic theater has the necessary classic movie-house organ (with live performances before most evening screenings), elaborate carvings and murals. Tickets are $7, which will get you into both films on whatever day/night you go. Over the years, I’ve hit screenings during what can be 2-3 month long “festivals” showing dozens of films of featured actors (Bette Davis, Jimmy Stewart, Katharine Hepburn, Cary Grant), directors (Alfred Hitchcock, Preston Sturges, George Cukor) or themes like Romantic Comedies or Film Noir. They’re keeping it light for the holidays with perennial classics like Bogart films, “The Wizard of Oz” and “It’s A Wonderful Life”.

Palo Alto, though more lively (and crowded) than most suburban downtowns, doesn’t have a wealth of city-quality restaurants (there’s certainly a great volume, however), and I more often than not, end up having a mediocre meal, but after much digging over the years, here are some of the best for pre or post film viewing:

RESTAURANTS

Bistro Elan

My favorite restaurant in Palo Alto is Bistro Elan where a gourmet, fresh, delicious Cal French meal (and warm service) is in order, but… it’s not really ideal in conjunction with a film as it’s a short drive, rather than walk, from University Ave, and as you want to take your time here. Still, I had to mention it as a Palo Alto great.

Tamarine

SF’s impeccable Bong Su was opened by owners of Palo Alto’s Tamarine. Upscale Vietnamese is done right here with Crab and Garlic Glass Noodles ($15), Clay Pot Cod ($19), Hoisin Lamb Chops ($25) or Citrus Soft Shell Crab ($11), served in a spare, but elegant, dining room.

Evvia

Evvia Estiatorio – An offshoot of SF’s fabulous, elegant Greek Kokkari, Evvia is a secondary player to the more stimulating décor and layout at Kokkari, though charging similar prices. Here you can get lunch or dinner in a large, open-air room with delicious Greek food, making it one of Palo Alto’s better dining options.

LIGHT EATS/APPETIZERS

Vino Locale – See description below under “Drink” and come here for Panini to eat in or to go.

Kanpai Sushi (330 Lytton Avenue, between Florence and Bryant Streets; 650-325-2696) is a decent sushi stop in downtown Palo Alto where the Omakase meals are steep ($45-65) but lunch is real deal and ala carte items are always available.

Nola – This place must come with a caveat: at least half the menu and drinks are suburban average and at night the party scene and noise absolutely ruins it. But for lunch or appetizers, this place transports to The Big Easy with its awesome two-level layout of house, bar, courtyard, Zydeco music and NoLa artwork; menu items are not quite Cajun (um, Cajun Spiced Fish Tacos?) and not always that good. Still, portions are generous and the better dishes are satisfying enough (think of it as better-than-average bar food and you’ll be on the right track), but it’s all about the setting. I like the surprisingly good, albeit drowned in rich cream sauce, Crawfish Andouille Dumplings ($8.95) or Crispy Calamari & Delta Blue Lakes with Red Creole Remoulade ($8.95). Share these hearty appetizers with friends over a cocktail (again, hit and miss) and you just might be ready to party Mardi Gras-style.

DRINK

Vino Locale – There’s no place around quite like this magical Victorian cottage housing bottles of local wines, simple foods (appetizers, salads, panini and desserts prepared with a Slow Food ethos), local artists’ artwork (+ a monthly “Meet the Artist” night) and all around charm. Sip a glass in the house or courtyard or order food for a picnic.

Junoon – Though the décor is hot, their bland “Indian fusion” is way overpriced and utterly disappointing – don’t even waste your time on appetizers. But you just might like the Tipsy Lassi, a Mango Lassi spiked with Mango Rum, for an after-movie imbibement. And the setting is, after all, cool in that London Indian restaurant sort-of-way.

Tea Time – A cute little shop with a nice range of teas… pre-movie only as they close early (7pm Monday-Saturday; 6pm Sunday).

DESSERT

Peninsula Fountain/Palo Alto Creamery – A charming, retro diner around since 1923, don’t come here for a meal, but do come for dessert (baked pies or creamy milkshakes). An ideal setting for a soda or an ice cream float post-classic films (yes, you can sit at the counter and pretend you’re Lana Turner about to be discovered).

Fraiche Yogurt – This is Palo Alto’s “froyo” (tart frozen yogurt) locale with not only great froyo, but fresh probiotic, cultured yogurt (made from Clover organic milk; tart but not sour). I love the Valrhona Chocolate flavor. They also serve a Soy frozen yogurt, which I like better than their Plain. And they bless the South Bay with Blue Bottle Coffee.

Zibibbo – Though taste value vs. cost means eat elsewhere, the candlelit, spacious dining room and bar are so enchanting, it’s worth a drink or dessert to soak up the atmosphere.

Reconnect with your Country Roots

Just in time for Fall, when I continue to dive into my beloved classic country albums (my ultimate hero, Cash, but also Hank Williams, Dolly, George Jones, Loretta, Waylon, etc…), I get nostalgic for hearty BBQ and roots music. There are a number of us in a city as diverse as San Francisco who were born or grew up in places like Oklahoma (my birthplace, before we moved to Kansas City when I was one, then on to California at age six), the South, Mid-West or anywhere classic country music and good BBQ are considered imperative.

Where can a down-home boy or gal get a fix in our metropolitan West Coast city? Though there are tons of cowboys in the Wild West of California (there’s a huge amount of cowboy events year round in towns like Visalia and Victorville, or the annual Monterey Cowboy Music & Poetry Festival – yep, cowboy poetry), but less for you little cowhands in the big city. Events like the Grand National Rodeo at Cow Palace should help satiate, as might a few of these local stops:

MUSIC

Atlas

Atlas Café Bluegrass Thursdays: Long time Mission tradition, Bluegrass Thursdays at Atlas (8-10pm) are down home, good time jams. You’ll hear not just bluegrass but country swing and hillbilly in this small café with fresh, affordable food, coffee, teas, and draft beers.

Thee Parkside

Twang Sundays at Thee Parkside: Every Sunday, 5-8pm, Potrero’s divey neighborhood fave, Thee Parkside, serves icy cold beers to go w/ free live twangy country, Americana, rockabilly and western music.

Freight & Salvage

Freight & Salvage Coffee House: Berkeley does it their way at this classic coffee house and non-profit community arts organization known for its concerts. Though the focus ranges in Traditional music from all ethnicities (read: World Music), much of the concerts here are comprised of Americana, bluegrass, and fiddle bands.

Hootennany

SF Hootenanny Night at Café International: (in Lower Haight) Held every second Saturday of the month, this folk music jam/concert is raucous… and free. Yeehaw!

After my BBQ tasting road trip through the South, I concur with Michael Lee West, quoting her Mama, in “Consuming Passions: A Food Obsessed Life”: “I can understand leaving a man, or even a town… but not good barbecue.”

FOOD

Uncle Franks

Uncle Frank’s BBQ: The number one reason to drive all the way down to Mountain View (besides an occasionally great Theatre Works play, is Uncle Frank’s. In the back room of a dingy bar on a non-descript, suburban street (since only through the bar, the back patio is the spot for 21 and under!), lies a dim dive with killer BBQ sauce, sides and, of course, BBQ. I’ve been a fan for years, but this year it popped up in Zagat for the first time, so the word continues to spread. This is the closest we’re gonna get to real Southern BBQ on the West Coast, y’all. Signature, tender beef brisket is thick with fat AND, thus, robust with flavor. Pork ribs and Louisiana links will make your belly… well, let’s just say… happy. Sides are excellent: fire-hot Cajun Corn is one of my top choices, but baked bean and coleslaw lovers won’t be disappointed. Then there’s Sweet Potato Pie and cinammon-y Peach Cobbler. Uncle Frank, why must you be all the way down the Peninsula?

Ironwood

Ironwood BBQ: Randomly situated on a golf course in Golden Gate Park, next to the Archery Field (with parking!) this unexpected BBQ mecca offers some of SF’s best Pulled Pork, Brisket and homemade BBQ Sauce. Using a rare Wham Turbo BBQ Pit from Memphis, meats are 100% oak-wood fired. There’s Ribs or Chicken but I’m a Pulled Pork girl first and foremost, and theirs does not disappoint. Sit outside overlooking the golfing green, whether foggy or sunny, for a unique experience of down home BBQ in GG Park. I’ve been happily going since they opened, as this is one of SF’s lesser-known food havens.

Bluegrass Grill

Bluegrass Grill: A delightful new Wine Country addition in the middle of Glen Ellen is this mid-range restaurant dishing BBQ and Western eats in a more refined setting. Laid back and friendly, its décor honors cowboys and Indians without being kitschy. In an old mill over a stream (natch) with a picture window view of the rotating water wheel from the bar area, you can smell the meat simmering. On the back deck, families and hefty, all-American guys chow down on beers and ribs… comforting in a hip, Midwestern sort-of way. I “heart” their brisket, BBQ sauce and Smoked Pork Nachos! Settle your stomach with a cold Bundaberg Ginger Beer as you fill up on appetizers like Blue Cheese Chili Oil Fries or Panko Crusted Chili Relleno. But save some room for the meat!

Johnson's BBQ

Johnson’s BBQ: Though SF isn’t swimming in authentic BBQ joints, there are a few gems, Johnson’s being one. This is Arkansas style BBQ… when they say their sauce is hot, they mean it. Lunch is a deal: for $6.75, I get a half order of the “pork sandwich” plus two sides (coleslaw, baked beans, yams, etc…), which is actually a huge heaping of BBQ pulled pork over a slice of bread (worth it even if you don’t want the bread!) They serve ribs, catfish, oxtails, links and more. I have to say the dingy environment is far from appealing, but that’s part of the authenticity.