WHISKIES OF THE WORLD – MARCH 27

Friendly pours at Whiskies of the World

• Whiskies of the World (aka WoW)- Smaller in scope and selection than Whiskyfest, I expected a little more focus and ease at this event in the Hotel Nikko. It ended up being obnoxiously over-crowded, with only slightly more breathing room during the VIP hour.

Bagpipes from Bushmills Pipe & Drum Band were a nice touch – they came through every hour or so. But the body-to-body mayhem was less appealing. Maybe a bigger venue next time? There were similar greats in the whisk(e)y world here as at classier Whiskyfest, but not necessarily with their greater-aged spirits. There was a nice focus on small batch distillers, like Edradour, who weren’t at the last Whiskyfest. For your money, I’d still recommend Whiskyfest, but I’m glad I was able to attend WoW.

A tipsy duck

The most fascinating hour came with the Craft Panel Discussion at 9pm, a prime board led by Ralph Erenzo of Hudson Valley, NY’s, Tuthilltown Spirits, Scott Bush of Templeton Rye in Western Iowa, Brian Ellison of Death’s Door outside of Madison, WI, and the one-and-only Fritz Maytag of our own Anchor Steam. Each shared the history of their companies, formed from the ground up – true American-ingenuity stories. It was especially inspiring hearing from Mr. Maytag, with his delightfully crusty sense of humor. He’s really a grandfather of the new wave of craft distilling in the US, leading the way in beer in the ’70′s, then spirits a good 20 years ago, long before craft distilling techniques became a highly-valued commodity again.

Fritz Maytag, of Anchor Steam, talks craft distilling

In a side by side tasting from these masters, Tuthilltown’s whiskey is a spicy rye with a sticky, musky smell and notes of vanilla, mustard and honey. Templeton’s 2006 whiskey is influenced by Bush’s great grandfather, a Templeton distiller during Prohibition. It’s a strong, brown sugar-tinged rye at 95% rye/5% barley grains (non-craft ryes are usually around 51% rye, which is not as complicated to produce). Death’s Door white whiskey is about the best example of this young, robust spirit experiencing a resurgence. Made from malted barley and organic red winter wheat, it’s double distilled, aged for less than 72 hours (to secure the whiskey moniker) and is clean, smooth,  grainy, sweet, strong.  Anchor Steam’s Old Potrero 18th Century-style whiskey is a favorite stocked in my home for some time. Fiery on the nose, it is grassy, complex and singeing on the palate.

As far as tasting in the main ballroom, many of the greats were there, like Glenmorangie, but here are a few tastes that were new or noteworthy to me this time around:

Prichards Double-Barrel Bourbon

• Dalmore – I was able to try more scotches in the Dalmore line, from a new 18 year expression (spice, coffee, chocolate notes) to a Gran Reserva (aged from 10-15 years) with dried fruit, chocolate and citrus accents.  King Alexander III stood out with layers of sherry, citrus and vanilla… an expertly blended mix of different aged malts.

(L) Ralph Erenzo (Tuthilltown) & (R) Brian Ellison (Death's Door)

• Prichards – Rum from… Tennessee? You did hear right, and it’s a good time. But my kicks were had with their Double-Barrel Bourbon. This is a medium-bodied, smooth Tennessee whiskey and I imagine it makes a pretty fine Manhattan.

• Corsair – I like Corsair’s (a small Kentucky craft distiller) whiskeys, but was more interested in their Pumpkin Spice Moonshine, a white whiskey with the spirit of a pumpkin ale, and their intriguing RED Absinthe: floral fennel notes with a pinkish hue from hibiscus.

• Dry Fly – Dry Fly Single Malt Whiskey is from a fairly new (2007) distillery in Spokane, WA, also making gin and vodka. It is a 100% wheat whiskey, spicy for merely 80 proof, but smooth, with sweet peach notes. The wheat aspect comes through almost like cinnamon toast.

Craft Panel w/ Scott Bush of Templeton Rye (R)

• Bruichladdich Organic – Available for tasting during the VIP hour only, it was a pleasure to sip what they’re labeling as “the world’s first organic Islay” scotch, a 2003 vintage, creamy but hot, with hints of currant and flowers.

• Tomintoul 31 Years Reserve – Another VIP hour tasting, their line is a delight, while the 31 year is a slightly sweet, smooth scotch.

NON-WHISKEY

Drew Faulkner pouring Bend Distillery spirits

•  Bend Distillery – I’ve been itching to tell you about Bend Distillery, pleased to see them at WoW. Though they make award-winning vodka and gin in Bend, OR, they also have two special brands I can’t get enough of: Cofia is a lush blend of roasted hazelnuts and fresh-brewed coffee in vodka. It’s not sweet but aromatic and dark. The other stand-out is Mazama-infused Pepper Vodka. Trust me and try and get your hands on this one.  Named after a volcano that erupted to become Crater Lake, it is blend of six different sweet and hot peppers. Heat is abundant and its redolent of fresh pepper skins. It’s smashing on its own, even though recommended in cocktails or for cooking.

Corsair Moonshine (photo source: Corsair website)

• Germain-Robin – These brandies are gorgeous and a Northern California (Ukiah) treasure. Trying the line was a pleasure, from cigar-friendly Old Havana to their elegant grappas. Take note of the lush Craft-Method Brandy XO.

• St. George Spirits – My beloved St. George (which is also Hangar One) lines my home bar with their incomparable Absinthe and Agua Azul Reposado. I always enjoy trying anything they make and a seasonal Spiced Pear Vodka is clean but laden with creamy clove.

*More on my non-whiskey picks from WoW in SF Bay Guardian article.

This issue’s Top Tastes in DRINK

BEER

Beef Tenderloin at Monk's Kettle

•  Attending a media-only Sam Adams Utopias dinner was a real treat at Monk’s Kettle on 11/19. Monk’s chef, Kevin Kroger, created a four course dinner of luxurious comfort food, each course paired (and some cooked) with a Sam Adams brew. I must digress to food for a moment: medium rare, ultra-tender Beef Tenderloin Tournedos in classic green peppercorn sauce, were nearly overshadowed by an unforgettable side: Sage Bread Pudding, crispy outside, moist and dense within. Some of us attendees are still emailing about it.

As for the beers, we were treated to seven, with commentary from Sam Adams brewer, Bert Boyce, direct from Boston, who mingled with us, talking beer and the coasts (East & West, that is) over dinner. I’ve had Coastal Wheat, Old Fezziwig Ale and classic Boston Lager before, but we also drank an intense, velvety Double Bock highlighting the purity of malted barley. Then, a rare, beauteous 1994 Triple Bock (17% ABV) with toffee, maple, oak notes, ending with the evening’s centerpiece: Utopias, the world’s strongest beer at 27% ABV. I’ll say, as many others already have, this tastes nothing like beer. It’s caramely, unique, rich – brewed like a beer, though not carbonated, more reminiscent of a fine sherry or port. Ruby black in color, at a few hundred bucks a bottle, it may not make it onto all our shelves, but I’d crave it after any dinner… or for dessert. Sam Adams founder and brewer, Jim Koch, says he wanted “to elevate people’s thinking about beer and to push the boundaries of traditional brewing in order to offer beer lovers an inspired drinking experience“. I would say he has…

COFFEE

Frescobaldi's 1999 Luce

•  I’ve been indulging more than once lately in Coffee Bar’s El Diablo.  The smooth mix of espresso, chipotle-infused milk, Guittard Chocolate, rocks my mornings with a subtle heat.

WINE

•  I move from food at the Inspirations of Tuscany dinner at Luce, to the wines… with Frescobaldi estates executive chef behind the stove, what better pairing than Frescobaldi wines? Each ranged from fine to superb, whether a bright, layered 2007 Benefizio or the subtle spice of Nipozzano Riserva Chianti Classico. Forced to choose, my favorites are a 2006 Attems Cicinis, a full-bodied white blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Bianco and Tocai Friulano grapes; and on the red side, a ’99 Luce from Montalcino (I love that idyllic Tuscan village), velvety, tannin-heavy, and well integrated with 50% Merlot/50% Sangiovese.

SPIRITS

•  The first annual Indy Spirits Expo was held at Mighty on 11/19 and though I had to miss the VIP hour due to a prior event (sigh), finding the place way too packed and party-like by the time I arrived, I’m pleased at a spirits event showcasing only small batch, high quality artisanal spirits.

J. Witty's Chamomile Liqueur (photo: www.jwittyspirits.com)

A few were represented I’m already a fan of, like North Shore Distillery in Chicago, and nearby Hangar One and Germain-Robin. Unexpected discoveries came in the form of J. Witty Spirits’ organic Chamomile Liqueur, served by the gracious Jill Witty (founder) herself. It’s even better than it sounds, both straight and in a cocktail. Lightly sweet, aromas of allspice precede a balanced mix of apples, clove, honey, with floral, spiced notes. A number of our fine establishments around town sell or serve it (here’s a list).

I took to the complexity of Corrido’s Extra Anejo, a tequila triple-aged in three types of barrels for a minimum of three years. Vanilla, white pepper, even sour cherry notes, hit my tongue, and the layers keep unfolding.

This issue’s Top Tastes in DRINK

“A cocktail hath the soul of wit, it is brief. It is a jest, a bon-mot, happy thought, a gibe, a word of sympathy, a tear, an inspiration, a short prayer. ” - Sportsman/travel writer, Francis Francis in Nineteenth Century

Victoria D'Amato's cocktail list at La Costanera, Half Moon Bay

COCKTAILS

Cocktails with an ocean view at La Costanera

•  Neyah White at Nopa can always be counted on to create a superior cocktail… Nopa’s sherry cocktails are influenced by his recent travels in Spain. Post Exchange ($9) is bright with Pedro Ximénez sherry, Bulleit bourbon, lemon juice and egg white. Puro ($9) is a smoky nightcap of Diplomatico rum, Oloroso sherry, Pedro Ximénez sherry, Angostura bitters, the glass first seductively filled with smoke. Non-sherry cocktails are equally stimulating, including a Westward Old Fashioned ($9), made of small batch spirits across the country: Wasmund’s Single Malt from Virginia, rare North Shore Mole Gin from Chicago and Oregon’s Ransom Old Tom Gin.

• Victoria D’Amato created the drink menu at La Costanera in Montara, between Pacifica and Half Moon Bay. Though I’m sad not to see her there making my drink, the cocktail menu (all $10) reflects her sensibilities with fresh fruit purees and homemade syrups. A change of pace from a margarita is La Montara with Sauza Horintos Reposado, hibiscus juice (gives it a pinky tinge), lime and a light jalapeno syrup. Pisco de Agave had a bit too much agave nectar sweetness for me, but I loved the fresh cucumber juice and lime with Pisco Acholado. Best of all is breathtaking ocean views and fire pits as you imbibe.

Tropical cocktails by Martin Cate at Jardiniere's Tiki Dinner

• Tiki torches welcomed outside of Jardiniere, a favorite of mine, during their one night only (11/9) Tiki Dinner (though every Monday there’s a themed $45 prix fixe). Guest bartender, Martin Cate, of the soon to open, highly-anticipated Smuggler’s Cove, served three of his island-friendly cocktails all night. No one makes tropical drinks like Cate and out of all three he served, my favorite was Don’s Beach Planter ($10) with Rhum Neisson, brandy, Coruba rum, pineapple, passion fruit, lime, Angostura bitters and Herbsaint, the latter two ingredients keeping it nuanced, lush, the right amount of sweet.

WINE

•  Wow, is my sadly inept descriptor for 2004 Alsace Zind-Humbrecht Gewurztraminer, blissfully enjoyed with friends at Circolo. Mineral notes, hints of rose petal, it confronts with layered complexity. I fell in love immediately.

Fresh sugar cane press at Leblon Cacaha Master Distiller session

•  At One Market‘s Weekly Beast Goat dinner, the vanilla, cedar finish of 2005 Millbrandt “Traditions” Merlot held up with a ham-like Goat Leg course.

SPIRITS

•  A special session on 11/10 (held at Conduit) with Leblon Cacahca’s Master Distiller, Gilles Merlet, visiting from Brazil and Cognac, France, included a rare bottle of unfiltered cachaca and cocktails from Reza Esmaili, Conduit’s bartender. Reza created three lovely cocktails, including a lushly smooth Avocado mi Amor with avocado, key lime, agave nectar, pure cane juice, and, yes, cachaca. We tasted pure cane sugar juice and learned of distilling processes for cachaca. A fine way to spend an afternoon.