10 Best Spirits Releases of 2012

Article by Virginia Miller, Press photos/from brand websites

Each year holds a range of interesting spirits released from around the globe. As the craft spirit industry continues to explode, there are many exciting newcomers this year. Here are some of the best of what’s crossed my desk in 2012.

FORD’s GIN ($27) -  The 86 Company is a new venture from spirits and cocktail world stars Simon Ford (former International Brand Ambassador for Plymouth Gin), Jason Kosmas and Dushan Zaric (owners of New York’s Employees Only bar, authors of Speakeasy). Just last month, they released Caña Brava Rum (a Panama rum, aged 3 years), Aylesbury Duck Vodka, and Ford’s Gin. It’s the gin I’ve been mixing with at home in every kind of cocktail from a basic gin and tonic to complex Ramos Gin Fizz. The gin’s bright citrus-juniper properties shine in each – and the price is right. Master Distiller Charles Maxwell, of Thames Distillers, worked with Ford to develop Fords Gin, made with nine botanicals, including juniper, coriander, cassia, jasmine, bitter orange, grapefruit peel. A nice, local connection (and environmental plus): distilled gin is shipped in bulk to and bottled by our own Charbay in Napa, cut with fresh Mendocino County water.

HIGH WEST CAMPIRE WHISKEY ($54) – Though I’ve been partial to Balcones Brimstone when it comes to a wild and wooly American smoked whiskey (in Balcones’ case, a corn whiskey smoked with Texas scrub oak), High West’s new Campfire continues in that rugged vein,  smoky with Old West charm. Bourbon, rye and smoky single malt are blended together in a spicy, woody, sweet, floral whole that makes me crave BBQ.

IMBUE PETAL & THORN Vermouth ($27) - From Portland and the creators of bittersweet vermouth Imbue (Derek Einberger, Neil Kopplin, and Jennifer Kilfoil), Imbue’s Petal & Thorn is a gorgeously bitter gentian liqueur using homegrown beets for color, alongside cinnamon and menthol – a truly unique elixir that’s lovely with soda on the rocks, in twists on classic cocktails like the Negroni, and on its own.

TEMPUS FUGIT KINA L’AVION D’OR ($35) – Fresh off the heels of their unparalleled Crème de Menthe and Crème de Cacao last year, Tempus Fugit does it again with Kina L’Avion D’or. Reminiscent of Lillet and Cocchi Americano but with a more intense flavor punch and elegant bitter quotient, it’s made from a hundred year old recipe from a Swiss distillery… a shining beauty in the quinquina family of aperitifs, distinct with quinine bite.

1512 SPIRITS Poitín ($39) – Poitín is a rare Irish spirit made in this case from potatoes and barley (the word poteen refers to small pot stills in which the liquor is historically made). Clear, bold and light, it evokes cucumber and Summer, with the spirit of an eau de vie and robustness of a white whiskey. There’s nothing quite like it.

WAHAKA MADRE CUISHE MEZCAL ($80) – New to the US this year, Wahaka Mezcals are solid across the line, from an affordable Espadin Joven ($30) to an award winning Tobala ($80). I especially appreciate the earthier Madre Cuishe ($80), made from the wild agave plant of the same name, evoking fresh earth, cigar ash, citrus even fresh, green vegetables. If you get a taste of their Real Matlatl Tobala Mezcal ($125), it’s blissfully like sucking on a stone, intensely earthy, fascinating – for the mezcal aficionado.

CHATEAU de LAUBADE BLANCE ARMAGNAC ($55) – From a Gascon, family-run Armagnac house established in 1870, this clear, refined Armagnac has more in common with an elegant grappa or pisco than beautifully rough and ready Armagnacs. Airy yet substantial with pear and floral notes, the lack of color is due to it being an unaged Armagnac. The purity of the base, made from 100% Folle Blanche grapes, shines. Consider it the cleaner, lighter side of brandy.

LEOPOLD BROTHERS FERNET ($35) – First tasting Leopold Brothers’ Fernet straight from the vat as it was fermenting when I visited their family-run Denver distillery in Sept. 2011, its release this year yielded a lighter, layered fernet-style amaro, where ginger, mint, cacao and floral notes peek out alongside the menthol bitterness Fernet is known for – the brothers (Todd and Scott) added sarsparilla root and molasses for a distinctly American touch.

GLENFIDDICH MASTER MALT Edition ($90) – This limited-edition whisky was released in September from the classic distillery, one of only four in Scotland still owned and run by the same family since the 1800′s. At 18,000 bottles, it’s small production for Glenfiddich, celebrating their 125th anniversary. Malt Master Brian Kinsman crafted this double-matured whisky, which spent roughly 6 to 8 years in used Bourbon barrels, then 4 to 6 years in sherry casks. Sherry characteristics hit first but don’t overpower, with accompanying brine and spice.

FOUR ROSES 2012 Limited Edition SINGLE BARREL BOURBON ($90)  – A bracing bourbon at 100-114 proof, depending on the barrel, with only 3600 bottles released, Master Distiller Jim Rutledge has personally selected these uncut, unfiltered 12 year bourbon barrels for special release this year, among the more noteworthy whiskey tastes of 2012.

Tasting craft beers alongside (expensive) Scotch at Highland Park & The Beer Chicks fantastically fun seminar at WhiskyFest SF 2012 (photo: Daniel Stumpf)

TASTING SPIRITS

Photos (unless otherwise noted) and article by Virginia Miller

NAVY STRENGTH GIN REACHES US SHORES

photo source: Plymouth Gin website

Unforgettable: my journey to the south of England in the town of Plymouth and its legendary distillery with Master Distiller Sean Harrison. Possibly the most beautiful distillery I’ve yet visited, I relished drinking Plymouth Navy Strength ($34.99) while in the UK, a bracing version of their classic gin at 57% ABV/114 proof, the preferred gin of the British Royal Navy. Though still smooth like Plymouth gin, Navy Strength packs a greater botanical punch, enlivening cocktails.

The good news is it finally arrived to the US merely weeks ago in September so drink up. It radiates in a classic Pink Gin (2 parts Plymouth Navy Strength, 3-4 dashes of Angostura bitters, lemon twist to garnish), which I enjoyed in the hills above Plymouth made by Harrison using fresh drops of reservoir water from the reservoir we enjoyed tea alongside. 

RECAPPING WHISKYFEST 2012

The sassy, lovely Beer Chicks (photo: Daniel Stumpf)

This year’s WhiskyFest was another memorable one. The hilarious Martin Daraz of Highland Park and the uber cool Beer Chicks, Christina Perozzi and Hallie Beaune (their book, The Naked Brewer, just released), killed it with their laughter-packed seminar. There wasn’t enough room for all who wanted to attend their tasting pairing Highland Park whiskies, all the way up to the glorious 30 year (still a favorite every time I taste it) with well-chosen craft beers selected by the Beer Chicks – a number of pairings went shockingly well together. This seminar should definitely return next year, giving all those who missed it a chance to partake of the joys.

Get him a stand-up comedian gig already! Highland Park's hilarious Brand Ambassador Martin Daraz (photo: Daniel Stumpf)

Digging further into the independent distillery line of BenRiach whiskies with international Brand Ambassador Stewart Buchanan was a highlight, whether the affordable steal of 10 year Curiositas, a robust, elegant 1995 Pedro Ximenez Cask #7165 (at cask strength, 52.3%) or the otherworldly, perfectly balanced 25 yr. The BenRiach line is a nuanced alternative to an Islay Scotch. Though peaty, these whiskies corner balance, letting the peat shine alongside other layers.

Photo source: Ben Krantz

On the American side, the standout was St. George’s 30th Anniversary XXX Single Malt Blend, a layered blend of whiskies from three generations of St. George distillers, Jörg Rupf, Lance Winters, Dave Smith. This new release (only 715 bottles) is a rare blend of whiskies: Winters’ first single malt distillation, his 1999 single malt aged in Rupf’s pear brandy barrels, a small portion of Lot 12 whiskey, and a whiskey distilled in 2007, aged in a port cask made of French oak. Pear notes shine in this bright whiskey as does ginger, butter, banana, hazelnut and orange peel.

Another Scotch standout was Classic Malts’ Glen Spey 21 year, a limited edition whisky maintaining a lively profile in spite of age from bourbon casks with notes of coconut, caramel, toffee.

THE FIRST SF CRAFT SPIRITS CARNIVAL

My favorite new taste at Spirits Carnival: Rhum J.M. Millesime 1997

Held this weekend in the massive Fort Mason, the first SF Craft Spirits Carnival was yet another opportunity for the consumer and industry to sample a wide range of international spirits. Though burlesque felt off in the middle of the vast space, acrobatics were more in line as we explored a US craft spirits-heavy selection with a good mix of Scotch, tequila, rum and the like from around the globe surrounded by gorgeous Bay and Golden Gate Bridge views.

While a number of my usual favorites were there (Highland Park, St. George, Old World Spirits, Charbay, Rhum Clement), there were quite a few new releases to taste. Charbay started importing beloved Tapatio tequila earlier this year, one of the best values out there for quality tequila, and at the Carnival, poured Tapatio’s just-imported Reposado and Anejo tequilas. Finally in the States, both are green, bright beauties thankfully allowing the agave to dominate over barrel wood.

Local distiller Don Pilar just released a refined Extra Anejo (aged a minimum of three years). Though I am typically not a big Extra Anejo – or sometimes even Anejo – fan when it masks agave properties with too much oak, Don Pilar manages complexity with agave liveliness.

Spirits tasting in a massive Fort Mason pavilion

Greenbar Collective’s (aka Modern Spirits) spiced rum ($30) from downtown Los Angeles could have been too sweet – as their fruit liqueurs were for me – but the spiced rum is subtle, nearly dry, aromatic with allspice, clove, cinnamon, vanilla, and orange zest, redolent of fall.

Michter’s from Kentucky (I’ve long appreciated their 10 year bourbon and their rye) poured their two brand new releases out this month, a decent Sour Mash (86.6%) aged over 4 years, mixable more than sippable, and a robust, cask strength (114.2%) 20 year single barrel bourbon, aged over 20 years with a definite rye spice, although they can’t disclose any information whatsoever on the grain make-up or distilling location.

Tapatio's just imported Reposado & Anejo tequilas

The tasting highlight of the weekend belonged to Rhum Clément. Already a fan of their elegant rhum agricoles from Martinique, they just released a fresh, smoky 6 year old ($56), and a cinnamon, wood, vanilla-inflected 10 year old ($73), both aged in virgin and re-charred oak.

In addition, Rhum Cément Cuvee Homere is aged in French Limousin barriques and re-charred bourbon barrels, smooth with tastes of biscuits, almond butter, hazelnut, chocolate, black pepper, while the stately, pricey Clément XO Rhum, is a Cognac-reminiscent treat blending rhums from highly regarded vintages, like 1952, 1970, 1976, complex with fruitcake, toffee, tobacco, leather. My favorite ended up being a cask strength (though still reasonable under 100 proof) 10 year old Rhum J.M. Millesime 1997, unfolding with toasted nut, lemon, sage, passion fruit, white pepper, cinnamon.

CHARBAY’s New Releases

Article and photos by Virginia Miller

A bright Spring Mountain Sour

Thanks to Napa-based Perfect Puree for a recent intimate dinner celebrating Perfect Puree neighbor Charbay Distillery’s new spirits releases at Jasper’s Corner Tap.

The ever talented Kevin Diedrich (bar manager at Jasper’s) crafted three drinks using Perfect Puree’s fresh, bright purees. In typical Diedrich fashion, subtlety and balance wove together each, from a Thymely Fashioned, vivid with Charbay White Whiskey, Perfect Puree Thyme Citrus puree (one of their new flavors), Galliano and bitters, to a beautifully frothy with egg white Spring Mountain Sour, named after the home of Charbay on Spring Mountain in St. Helena. The Sour was a mix of the White Whiskey, Marie Brizard Creme de Cacao, Perfect Puree Chipotle Sour puree (a little goes a long way with peppery smoke), Green Chartreuse and aforementioned egg white.

CHARBAY R5 Whiskeys

Charbay's new R5 Whiskies

As an avowed whiskey lover, Marko Karakasevic’s (Charbay’s distiller, alongside his father, Miles) whiskeys are among the best I’ve had anywhere. But his fantastic beauties, like Release II, are out of the price range of many of us at $300+ a bottle, though I would call it one of the few worth a splurge.

Thankfully, his new whiskies are on the way, each actually distilling Bear Republic’s finished beer, aging it in oak or stainless steel. Marko has been distilling bottle-ready beers for years, like the pilsner he used for his Release I whiskey in 1999.

Thymley Fashioned

Charbay’s new whiskies are well under $100 , the first just-released set (small production, roughly 650 cases) made with Bear Republic’s Racer IPA: think hoppy, herbaceous, redolent of pine, papaya, and malt.

The first, R5 Clear Whiskey ($52), is aged in small stainless steel tanks for 22 months after being distilled in a double copper Charentais alembic pot still. The second is R5 Aged Whiskey ($75), aged in French oak for 22 months, continuing the hoppy, bright, fruity, lychee direction. I tasted this whiskey in its early incarnation at 6 and 12 months – at each stage it was already a winner. Both are unique entries in the American whiskey category, especially approachable in this price range.

I’m particularly excited for Charbay’s upcoming release made from Bear Republic’s stout – again, at early stages of tasting, it is already brilliant. Hopefully, these more affordable whiskies will introduce more to the uniqueness of Charbay’s whiskies. Stay tuned for release dates and where you can find R5 this Summer here.

Tequila Tapatio

Tequila Tapatio

Tequila fans are thrilled that Tequila Tapatio, one of Mexico’s best quality-for-value tequilas (the blanco retails at $33 per bottle) distilled by delightful tequila master Carlos Camarena, is finally available in the US for the first time through Marko K Spirits, Charbay distiller Marko Karakasevic’s import company.

Tequila Tapatio is already on it’s way to numerous bars, restaurants and stores in California, New York and 7 other states, including being well stocked at Tres here in SoMa (a list of where to find it here).

Though I knew months back Marko would be the importer, it’s taken awhile for the tequila to arrive to the US. Now it’s here and it is smooth, robust, primed to be the savvy bartender’s well tequila of choice.

Don Julio private dinner at Quince

TEQUILA

DON JULIO 70 ANJEO CLARO

Don Julio 70 Anejo Claro

Don Julio 70 Añejo Claro is the 70th anniversary release created by Don Julio González himself. Yes, he is a person, who retired in 2002 but still creates anniversary recipes each decade (the last was his soft, elegant 1942 tequila released for their 60th anniversary).

At 80 proof, Añejo Claro sounds gimmicky at first: why would someone want to release a clear añejo, stripping out the color oak aging imparts? Don Julio was looking for an unexplored expression of tequila, taking on the challenge of creating his own custom filtration system to filter out color and gain clarity after the Claro is distilled, then aged at 18 months.

El Camino Real Sour at Quince: Reposado tequila, Amaro Cio Caro, lemon, fig, chile

Hoping to illuminate the agave properties that often get lost in an añejo due to too much oak, the agave really shines through here (although it also does in some of the better añejos I’ve tasted).

The bottom line in sipping Añejo Claro is that it’s an elegant product: citrus, green apple, caramel and vanilla notes intermingle with bright agave. It goes down all too smoothly and is a welcome addition to the Don Julio line.

I came away convinced after an intimate media meal at one of our city’s great restaurants, Quince, where we tasted much of the line side-by-side, also sampling the tequilas in 5 different cocktails Quince created. My favorite was Julio Cesar Chavez, a classically-inspired beauty of añejo, Gran Classico, Dolin dry vermouth and Amaro Nonino. Our last cocktail, Don Guapo, was paired with Quince‘s juicy Liberty duck entree (glazed in honey and tequila, naturally), consisting of añejo, Meletti amaro, Pedro Jimenez sherry, and Bittermans Xocolatl Mole bitters.

GRAPPA

(Photo source: Winebow)

In a recent tasting of 12 grappas with spirits industry friends, we concluded the obvious: there are some experimental, even lovely grappas being made in the States, but the finest examples of this pomace-based (grape skins, stems, seeds, pulp) brandy are often from Italy. The best of the day, bar none, was one I’ve had on my shelf for months:  La Grappa di Pino Zardetto, made about 40 miles outside Venice. It exhibits all those floral, fruity, subtle earthy notes of the best Italian grappas… with smooth, exquisite body.

Peach St. Grappas

Stillwater Spirits, a tiny Petaluma distillery I’ve visited a few times (they make a surprisingly flavorful single malt vodka), makes an intriguing Cabernet Sauvignon Grappa. Maple mixes with salty olives, gentle fruit and vanilla spice, and it keeps evolving as it sits.

Peach Street Distillers in Palisade, Colorado, makes a rather heavy-handed Muscat Grappa, but also a bright, fruity Viognier Grappa, with notes of apple, cream, even chocolate.

GIN

DARNLEY’S VIEW

Darnley's View Gin

Darnley’s View is a new gin made in London but produced by the Scottish Wemyss family who date back hundreds of years as vintners and spirits merchants. The gin mimics the London dry style in honor of Mary Queen of Scots’ union with Lord Darnley (a Scottish/English marriage) in 1565. Four times pot distilled, it is made with six botanicals: juniper, coriander, elderflower, angelica root, orris root, lemon peel and elderflower, the latter adding a softly floral dimension. It works as a mixing gin in cocktails.

RUM

St. LUCIA RUMS

Chariman's Reserve (photo source: product website)

I’ve been sipping rums from St. Lucia, an island roughly 20 miles south of Martinique in the Caribbean, claiming both French and English influences. St. Lucia’s Chairman’s Reserve is a blend of rums averaging 5 years in age, sweet and honeyed but not lacking in tobacco and spice to balance it out. The Spiced version sees nutmeg, clove, and citrus, to me subtly recalling wassail, which my family always makes at Christmas time. In some ways, I almost prefer the cheapest Chairman’s Reserve Silver (to the Gold or mainstay Reserve) as here sugarcane, coconut and spice come through with simple clarity.

I find their Castries Crème, a peanut cream that liqueur made from roasted peanuts with St. Lucia rum, rather a guilty pleasure. Creamy, yes. But not too heavy, offset with hints of vanilla and spice. It’s dessert cocktail time with this liqueur.

Talking Tequila with Carlos Camarena

Carlos Camarena, master distiller of El Tesoro tequila (along with Charbay, Tapatio, Ocho, Excellia and more) is a powerhouse. Not only does he mastermind an insane number of tequilas, but he is passionate about traditional, small production, hands-on methods, pure ingredients, no shortcuts… yet he never sounds like a PR pitch. His sincerity authenticates his words: “In every bottle you will taste a little piece of us… of our heart.”

Carlos Camarena (photo source: Drink PR)

He talks of being a third generation distiller officially (5th generation unofficially: “My ancestors, how do you say… made moonshine?”) El Tesoro is produced at La Altena Distillery in Jalisco, Mexico, which was rebuilt in 1937 by Carlos’ grandfather, Don Felipe, after the original was destroyed in the Mexican Revolution.

Sipping the El Tesoro line, you do taste the history, and, yes, the heart. Carlos shares of his family’s emphasis on quality, not quantity, as their business (and life) philosophy. He half jokes, “If you like our tequila, keep it quiet… we’re happy to sell another bottle or two, but we don’t want to grow too big and lose the quality.”

A couple unusual El Tesoro factors: unlike any other tequila, it is bottled at proof, and in the case of the unaged platinum tequila, is bottled within 24 hours of distillation so as not lose any of the purest agave flavors.

Platinum (blanco) – clear, smooth, clean, it is sweet with a hint of banana and smoke, white pepper, herbs, vanilla

Reposado – honey and dried fruit hit the nose, while the taste offers smooth, peppery slate tempered by a hint of oak sweetness

Anjeo – aged 2-3 years in oak barrels, as is key to anjeos, oak aging thankfully does not mask agave flavor; though there’s lots of vanilla cream in this, the smoothest and sweetest of the three standard tequilas, there’s still a hint of pepper and plenty of agave; as is typical for me, I prefer the platinum and reposado though this is an elegant anejo

Paradiso – though these days we see a lot of tequila aging experimentation, Carlos was the first to age in cognac barrels a good 20 years ago; Paradiso is aged up to 5 years in French oak barrels and is my sipping tequila choice: subtle spice and dark chocolate co-mingle with an almost mezcal mineral quality; earthy, lush, yet light

As I spent hours at an intimate lunch with Carlos at Slanted Door, their bar staff made four cocktails showcasing El Tesoro, including the ever-delightful Carter Beats the Devil (reposado, lime, mezcal, agave, chili – an original recipe from Flora restaurant in Oakland), and a light Los Tres Aztecas that went down all too smoothly with blanco, falernum, absinthe and coconut water.

Whimsical writing on Locanda's bar mirrors

I sample dozens of spirits, wines, beers and beyond in any given month. If there are tasting events (and there are), then multiply that a few times. Here are the ones that rose above, recommends for everyday sipping (and beyond):

COCKTAILS

Nona del Diavolo (rye, Strega, ginger, lime, seltzer)

LOCANDA, 557 Valencia Street between 16th & 17th, 415-863-6800

I am sad not to see the talented Brian MacGregor running this bar (he originally built the program). Interim bar manager Eric Alperin launched Locanda’s bar program (the latest restaurant is from the owners of Delfina). As one of LA’s top bartenders (from one of LA’s best bars, The Varnish), he brings his classy precision to their short but rich cocktail menu.

Though there on my first visit, Alperin is already back in LA, and the bar is now being overseen by Michael Sager, formerly of Milk & Honey London. In the meantime, it’s a worthy stop for understated, elegant cocktails (all $10).

Eastside at Locanda

Smoke & Spice really lays on the peat from an Islay scotch float, while gin, Carpano Antica and citrus peel compose the drink. Go refreshing with Nona del Diavolo: rye, Strega, ginger, lime and seltzer on the rocks, topped with a cube of candied ginger. I’m ever pleased to see grappa on a cocktail menu. Here it’s in the Agro Uve with peach, lemon, egg and bitters for another refresher.

My second visit entailed La Bella Confusione (bartender’s choice), a classic Eastside, aromatic with fresh cucumber and mint. They mostly seem to focus on the classics in this category (a bartender suggested a Ward 8 and other classics I love but make frequently at home), while their short list of in-house specials is focused and appealing.

WHISKEY

TRYBOX Series of NEW MAKE AMERICAN WHISKIES

New Make

Thanks to Daniel Hyatt at the Alembic, I sampled Heaven Hill’s latest Trybox Series. Un-aged New Make American whiskies, they produced both a rye and a bourbon (or, rather, the same grain recipe, aka mashbill, as bourbon and rye but clear and un-aged).

I love the cask strength intensity of both, both fiery smoothness layered with flavor, particularly the bourbon mashbill with its nose of sweet corn and clean, cornfield taste. It’s the base for Heaven Hill bourbons like Evan Williams and Elijah Craig. New Make rye is is the same mashbill used to produce Rittenhouse Rye, spicy and fruity simultaneously.

Once again, Heaven Hill does it right.

COLONEL E.H. TAYLOR JR. OLD-FASHIONED SOUR MASH BOURBON

Colonel E.H. Taylor Jr. Bourbon

Danny Louie, bartender extraordinaire (also launching an Asian food truck, TomKat), turned me on to the new Colonel E.H. Taylor Bourbon at the Alembic recently. Allocated (in the spirits world, this means few bottles set aside for specific bars and shops on a limited basis due to low production and/or high demand), this is a limited-edition bourbon. If you can get your hands on a bottle, it is delightful.

Bourbon Blog deems it “serious, full flavor”, saying “If a glass of ‘Bold Bourbon Pie’ existed, this could be it.” I’d have to agree: it’s bold, rich, yet surprisingly smooth, redolent of oak, spice and candied apple. Go now to Alembic and order a pour ($14) before it’s gone.

TEQUILA

ALQUIMIA

Alquimia Anjeo

At Taste of Tamales & Tequila By the Bay, I was quite busy judging cocktails over a four hour period. But in between, I made a beeline for tequila tables I was unfamiliar with.

Alquimia is an organic, family-owned tequila that impressed immediately.

Their anejo and blanco secured gold medals in the SF World Spirits Competition, though the entire line is worth trying. Their brand new extra anjeo, as well as their anejo, surprise with a light body but layers of complexity and taste, both unusual anejos. The blanco and reposado are equally clean and bright.

Purchase at Blackwells or order a pour at Tommy’s or Colibri.

3 Reasons to Drink Don Pilar Tequila

1. Local story – Yes, Don Pilar is actual tequila, which means it must be made in Jalisco, Mexico (in the Lowlands and Highlands around the town of Tequila. Now that we have that out of the way, I want to highlight that Don Pilar (aka Jose Pilar Contreras) is a local, Bay Area entrepreneur and all-around, Mexican-American success story.

Don Pilar Blanco (photo source: Don Pilar)

Born and raised in the Jaliscan highlands where his tequila is distilled (near the town of San Jose de Gracia), tequila was in his blood. He moved to California in the 1960’s to work its orchards and fields. With two business partners, he opened the popular Tres Amigos in Half Moon Bay in the ‘80’s (there’s now three locations). He also launched his own Amigos Grill in Portola Valley, where his whole family works. In 2002, he pursued his next venture: anejo tequila. Don Pilar is that rare figurehead who is hands-on in every aspect of his businesses. It’s not uncommon to find him buying supplies and produce or working the kitchen, nor to catch him supervising the agave fields in Mexico..

2. Anjeo value - You’d be hard-pressed to find a better anejo at this price. At places like the Jug Shop or K&L, the anejo can be priced in the low $30’s, a steal for an anejo this good. As tequila’s aged, golden counterpart, anejos usually cost well more than a blanco or reposado.

Don Pilar Anejo (photo source: Don Pilar)

This double-distilled anejo has been aged in virgin American white oak barrels with a medium char. The taste is redolent of butterscotch, chocolate, toasted agave. With a full, round finish, it has won a few awards, keeping up with other anejos that cost at least twice as much.

3. Release of their brand new Blanco – Starting with their anejo, they recently added to the family with Don Pilar Blanco. Just as blanco is young, unaged tequila, the bottle sports a photo of a younger Don Pilar (the anejo bottle carries a recent image). The blanco keeps pace in quality with its older sibling. Clean, bright with pineapple and zest, it has a gently creamy finish. After a release party at the legendary Tommy’s (of course you can sample both Don Pilar tequilas there, and in restaurants like Tropisueno, Colibri, Maya, Seasons Bar at the Four Seasons, even El Farolito), it feels only right to celebrate tequilas that hold up in the saturated tequila world, but also have local roots.

Top Ten Tastes at the 2011 FANCY FOOD SHOW at Moscone Center, 1/16-18

Fancy Food, the largest showcase of specialty foods in North America (held annually in NYC and SF) returned to the Moscone Center. Again I explored thousands of products from around the world, with the limits of my stomach to slow me after hours of sampling.

Sinai's stand-out mezcals

Fancy Food showcases trends in food, which there’s been much talk of this week already. I didn’t notice many major differences from last year, but saw a welcome increase in spirits vendors (though still merely a handful) and a continued proliferation of healthy, organic, low calorie (therefore sometimes tasteless) products. I was impressed by Teatulia out of Denver and their completely compostable wrappers and packaging. Their clean, 100% organic teas are grown in Bangladesh, subtle but full in flavor. I also took note of Philippe Padovani of Padovani Chocolates’ sultry chocolates, in flavors ranging from Apple Banana Ganache to Lilikoi Soft Caramel.

Here’s my coverage from last year, and my stand-outs this year:

Spirits

Velho Barreiro Cachaca

Sinai Mezcal – Probably the best taste of the day for this spirits lover was Sinai Mezcal, a tiny, under-the-radar mezcal that, despite tasting numerous brands, is the first to really excite me since Del Maguey. Whether Blanco, Reposado or Anejo, each is smoky, clean with slate and agave. Don’t mind the low budget labels… it’s all in the taste. They need a US distributor (hello, anyone?) At the very least, it should be on the shelf at Tommy’s.

Velho Barreiro - One of the most popular cachaca brands in Brazil, this bright sugarcane spirit tantalized in a well-made Caipirinha but also stood on its own, whether the traditional Velho Barreiro or Gold (aged) version.

Food

La Tourangelle oils

La Tourangelle Oils – Based out of Richmond, CA, it’s no surprise these memorable oils are local. La Tourangelle’s peanut, pistachio, sesame, white & black truffle, and avocado oils are superior to average brands, but their latest releases especially wow: Thai Wok Oil exudes lemongrass and basil essences, while Pan Asian Stir Fry Oil is layered with garlic, ginger, fried onion. You can purchase at Whole Foods, Andronico’s and Williams Sonoma, to name a few.

Rumba's ice creams

Rumba Dessert’s Ice Creams - I’d seen Rumba before, but had not been able to try as many as I did here. Whether creamy Banana & Cinnamon, tart Passion Fruit ‘Maracuya’ or caramel-y Lucuma (a tropical Peruvian fruit), I appreciate the robust flavor and care evident in these ice creams.  Rumba‘s husband/wife team are delightfully engaging (wife, Laly Protzel is president and creates the recipes, while her husband assists with marketing and business). Find Rumba at Noe Valley Whole Foods and RJ’s Market in the Rincon Center, not to mention around the Bay Area.

Tahitian Gold vanilla

Tahitian Gold Vanilla Products – Tahitian Gold is an elegantly-packaged line of vanilla products based out of Torrance, CA. Going the 100% natural route, they use a range of beans to create an intense vanilla bean paste, refined extracts for cooking, Tahitian vanilla sugar and fleur de sel. The look and quality is among the best I’ve seen in the vanilla world.

Glop – Glop may not exactly sound appetizing, but it’s a playful spread of Parmesan and Asiago cheeses, olive oil, garlic, herbs and spices. Another Bay Area-based company, the exciting part is they’re working with one of my very favorite chefs, Aziza’s Mourad Lahlaou, who has created sauces and dips they are hoping to sell further into the year. I especially like Smoky Harissa, Chickpea and Yogurt Herb.

Mourad's sauces & dips with Glop

Yarra Valley Dairy’s Marinated Feta – From Australia, Yara Valley Dairy’s creamy, uber-fresh feta pops with herbs. Handmade on the farm, it’s an elegant (and addictive) snack.

Crispy Green & Fruitzio – Usually a long list that includes gluten free, dairy free, vegan, nut free, means I’m not going to like it. In the case of a little bag of freeze-dried fruit from Crispy Green and Fruitzio, I’m pleased at just how edible the product is. Stand-outs were freeze-dried pineapple, banana and kiwi. It’s one of those guiltless snacks that doesn’t compromise flavor. Here’s where to find it.

Coffee

Malabar Gold espresso

Malabar Gold Supreme from Josuma Coffee Company – Kudos for a shiny, silver espresso machine calling me like a beacon and perfect espresso preparation of Malabar Gold from Josuma, based in Menlo Park. They sell their beans mainly to cafes or restaurants though are seeking retailers. The crema atop their espresso glows a warm, velvet brown, while the flavor awakens you with robust, elegant force.

Caffe Barbera – From Naples, Italy, Caffe Barbera, a fifth generation coffee company since 1870, likewise served a supreme shot from their gold espresso machine.

In Tequila, Mexico, at Fortaleza distillery

In a Guadalajaran cemetary

Agave fields on Fortaleza grounds

Fortaleza is truly a special tequila. On my recent visit to Tequila, Mexico, this distillery enchanted with its agave covered hillsides and haunting caves. Fortaleza means fortitude, though in Mexico, you’ll find their bottles labeled Los Abuelos in memory of the grandfathers of Guillermo E. Sauza, the fifth generation producer who passionately runs Fortaleza by old world methods. He comes from tequila royalty as a Sauza… yes, that Sauza (his family sold Sauza back in the ’70′s so don’t attribute the current quality level to them). Despite offers to be bought out by major tequila companies, Guillermo refuses, running his little distillery with a primary focus on quality and historical production. Here are just a few highlights of my visit over Day of the Dead in November.

DIA DE LOS MUERTOS at the distillery

Entering Fortaleza's caves

The workers of Fortaleza and their children threw us one unforgettable Day of the Dead party. They exhibited impressive effort in a play performed under the stars of the distillery grounds. Tacos were filled with fresh-grilled chorizo and beef. A woman squeezed dough into a giant vat of bubbling oil, making the best churros I’ve ever tasted. Young men serenaded us with guitars while impromptu dancing erupted. Palomas (tequila and grapefruit soda), Mexican beers, and of course, tequila flowed. The caves glowed with candles, friendly skeletons and the occasional bat. We caroused, celebrated, sang by a campfire, and reveled in the magic of a night that could not have been recreated elsewhere.

VISITING the SAUZA FAMILY GRAVE in GUADALAJARA

Sauza family grave

In a surreal moment, I took in sunset at the Panteon de Mezquitan cemetery in Guadalajara with Guillermo Sauza. We stood at the grave of his great great grandfather Don Cenobio, the first to export tequila to the US in 1860’s, of his great grandfather, Don Eladio, and grandather, Don Javier, who carried on the tradition. Crumbling graves huddled in a maze of statues and crypts recall European cemeteries. But unlike those hushed sanctuaries, this graveyard swarmed with local families, music streaming from loud speakers, food for sale.

Guillermo pours

We stood over the Sauza grave ablaze with orange flowers and streamers. Guillermo poured us shots of Fortaleza blanco while making a toast to his lineage. Over their graves we respectfully but joyfully partook of the fruit of their talented labor.

From a place of death, I walked away having breathed in life, the riches of shared gifts and family.

TEQUILA PRODUCTION at the distillery

Sifting through agave

Think old world tequila production practices: small copper pot stills, mature agave plants steam-cooked in a brick oven to release natural sweetness, then crushed by a volcanic stone wheel pulled by a man-driven tractor in a circular pit.

Mules used to pull that two-ton wheel but now a small tractor takes care of the heavy crushing. Two men still follow behind, sifting through the fibrous mash to achieve the right texture.

The pot stills are labor-intensive being the smallest I’ve seen at a distillery of Fortaleza’s output. They double distill, then age in American oak in reused whiskey barrels.

GLASS-BLOWING (of Fortaleza bottles) in TONALA

Glass-blowing in Tonala

In Guadalajara’s Tonala district, Fortaleza’s beautiful, hand-blown bottles with agave top are created. Hipolito Gutierrez, a third generation glass-blower, holds the Guinness World record for largest hand-blown bottle and runs this Tonala shop. Watching Fortaleza’s bottles being made is a mesmerizing dance of deft and delicate maneuvers. One misstep would lead to a serious burn as artisans flit between fire and searing hot molds with ease. I attempted to blow a glass myself, finding the greatest amount of breath I could muster was far from sufficient to fill even half a bottle with space. The skill required to blow continuously and fully is akin to the control Satchmo himself needed to play his trumpet.

EXPLORING TEQUILA

Mountains of agave

For those wanting to explore the riches of Tequila themselves, I met Clayton Szczech of Experience Tequila while in Mexico. Clayton regularly leads tours in the area, filling a rare niche for knowledgeable, passionate expertise on the region without rigid schedules and touristy stops one normally associates with a tour group. He purposely keeps it small, tailoring it towards the needs of each individual group. Clayton has good relationships with the distilleries (certainly with Fortaleza), maintaining a relaxed stance, as if traveling with friends, which, in fact, you just may become.

For more photos, see my article in the SF Guardian and also my three-page article in the January 2011 issue of 944 magazine.

Rare Tequilas I sampled in Mexico

In my travels last week through the magical land of Tequila, Mexico, I tasted, yes, ridiculous amounts of tequila from a wide range of distillers, but also at various restaurants and bars. After watching tequila being made and sampling it in its homeland, I gained a deeper appreciation than I already had for the agave spirit.

Here are three superb but uncommon tequilas only found in Mexico or in the states with some investigative cunning. Of course, the incomparable Tommy’s Mexican Restaurant here in SF at one time or another stocks every one of these by the pour if you wish to sample.

San Matias Gran Reserva Anejo
San Matias’ Gran Reserva Anejo is distilled in Ojode Agua, Jalisco, aged three years in French oak barrels, and is a shocking value in Mexico at less than $20 a bottle. Recommended to me by a restaurant owner on the outskirts of Guadalajara, I was pleased by its gentle amber color and subtle notes of orange peel, roasted apples and smoke playing off the herbaceousness it thankfully retains despite age (a fault I sometimes find with anejos). When asking locals why it’s so cheap compared to other anejos, they said it’s because it’s about 80% agave vs. a high quality 100%. Their website says otherwise, claiming to be 100%. I may never know the truth, but I can say this was a favorite find during my time in Mexico and certainly the best deal.

Arette Unique Reposado
Arette was one of the distilleries I visited in Tequila and has become a favorite, specifically for their fabulous, reasonable (around $60 a bottle in US, $30 in Mexico) Reposado Artesanal (they also have a basic reposado). But the one everyone claims can only be purchased in Mexico is their Unique Reposado (there’s a Unique Blanco and Extra Anejo as well). Though I see K&L Wines can special order it and even if I actually prefer the Artesanal repo, the Unique impresses with its refined balance, aged 11 months in white oak bourbon barrels. Nuanced and subtle, it’s a fine reposado intro for the uninitiated.

I was more excited by the rare, small production Gran Clase Extra Anejo, aged over three years with woody mellowness yet herbaceous, agave properties… and the extra anejo El Gran Viejo with its artistic, unusual bottle. It’s warm with vanilla, almond richness, rested six years in bourbon barrels.

Reserva de los Gonzalez Blanco
Another sip recommended by a Mexican local, Reserva de los Gonazalez has Don Julio ties.

Its directors are Eduardo and Francisco González, sons of none other than Don Julio González. Produced in Los Altos, Jalisco, and made from the Tequilana Weber blue agave plant, the Reserva Blanco is 100% pure agave, clean, reminiscent of Don Julio‘s blanco with a gentle sweetness, floral, grassy notes, and plenty of agave.

DON JULIO’s Master Distiller visits SF

A Dolores St. church transforms for Don Julio events

I’ve long said it: Don Julio is the one huge tequila brand I love. Though my favorite tequilas are less than mainstream, Don Julio remains consistent, especially with their refined reposado. I couldn’t miss the chance for an afternoon with their master distiller Enrique de Colsa when he was in town last week.

Fresh on the heels of my trip to Tequila, Mexico, I felt like I was still there, albeit in a striking Dolores Street church transformed into a stained glass temple to all things Julio.

Don Julio's master distiller, Enrique de Colsa

We tasted through the entire line, of course, enjoyed a fine Mexican lunch from the skillful 15 Romolo crew, and participated in Luxury Drop, a Top Chef-style mixology contest creating shots on the spot with fresh ingredients. Luxury Drop is a Don Julio concept conceived in London in 2009 with six of the world’s biggest mixologists (in case you’re curious, it was Salvatore Calabrese, Simon Difford, Dale DeGroff, Peter Dorelli, Gary Regan, and Hidetsugu Ueno). With the idea of creating modern interpretations of the classic ritual of pairing salt and lime with shots of tequila, bartenders all over are pairing ingredients with tequila shots and an accompanying ritual.

The church of (Don) Julio

At 80 proof and all twice-distilled, Don Julio’s elegant tequilas remain a standard. Blanco ($35) captures the essence of Tequila’s Highlands with a sweet agave nose, bright lemon/lime and pepper to taste. The aforementioned Reposado ($40) has long been my Julio choice, aged for eight months in American white oak (Jim Beam and Four Roses barrels). I love its woody, dry sweetness but also herbaceous qualities accented by cinnamon and vanilla. I’ve heard it said it’s a bourbon-lover’s tequila. I guess it’s obvious, as I’m a bourbon devotee? Anejo ($50) is maybe my least favorite in the line, yet strikes a fine balance: sweet but not syrupy. It has a dark chocolate earthiness married to maple, nuts, caramel.

Don Julio stations transform a Mission church

Don Julio 1942 Anejo Tequila ($100) was a 60th anniversary release in 2002 and remains an example of the range tequila can offer. It’s also my ideal savory/sweet “dessert”. Distilled in a small pot still for its second distillation, it’s aged 24 – 38 months. Though the nose hits you with vanilla, it’s not too sweet, instead is a layered mix of salted caramel, coffee, cinnamon spice, pepper, toffee, with a fine strain of agave shining through. This one’s gorgeous and you’d be a classy big shot serving it as an after-dinner pour.

Don Julio Real Extra Anejo ($350-$400) may not be the worth the price for many, but it’s a special pour. A light, golden brown, it’s aged 3-5 years with balance it’s leading characteristic. Yes, you get black pepper,  citrus, even that clean slate and hint of smoke essence one gets in mezcal. Thankfully, the usual barrel-heavy, butterscotch sweetness of a typical anejo are absent here. What remains is a nuanced, light, sweet spice.