COCKTAILS

• Neyah does it again: when I asked for a cachaca drink at Nopa, he served Sagatiba Cachaca and Dimmi, with their own house Birch Beer Bitters. Birch beer and Dimmi’s herbal/floral/grappa notes melded into a beautifully unique coctail. While you’re there, try White Whiskey as it should be imbibed in a White Manhattan or Buck with your choice of small batch white whiskeys… my Manhattan featured an as of yet unreleased white whiskey from Leopold Bros. that reigned supreme in taste compared to other worthy versions.

• Victoria D’amato-Moran’s (of Cent’Anni Cocktails) drinks often taste like vacation, and none more so than a tropical imbibement she whipped up at a recent private spirits tasting event at Tres Agaves, as well as at Taste of the Nation. Called the Yucatan Punch, it consists of Chinaco Reposado, dreamy Kalani Coconut Liquor (a 100% natural coconut liqueur that puts other coconut liqueurs to shame), D’aristi Xtabentun (a rum/honey/anise liqueur) and pineapple.

SPIRITS

Stand-outs at a recent private spirits tasting at Tres Agaves:

• Blackbull scotch – newer to the market but 30 years aged, a sherry-like whisky, certainly not a favorite but intriguing
• Briottet – surprising, ripe, elegant Creme de Cassis (blackcurrant liqueur), Creme de Banane,  Creme de Mure (blackberry)
• D’Aristi Kalani Coconut Liqueur – 100% natural, fresh, un-toasted coconut – tastes like tropical vacation – may be the best I’ve had of its kind
• English Harbor Rum – toasty, burnt sugar, complex, even at merely 5 years
• Luxardo’s Anice – clean, light anise liqueur, not syrupy or cloying
• Ypioca Cachaca – satiny Brazilian cachaca, from Crystal to smokey Gold or clean Silver

WINES

4/22 – TOAST OF THE TOWN – It was a bit surreal having the entire War Memorial Opera House filled with wine and food, live jazz, and a smartly-dressed crowd. As these tasting events so often do, it grew overly packed once two pleasant VIP hours passed and the general public entered. In those early hours, I enjoyed a number of global sips.

A stand-out was Winemonger’s German Rieslings, particularly a snappy, mineral ‘08 Neumayer Zwirch Gruner Veltliner and a fruity/floral ‘07 Johann Donabaum Riesling Offenberg Smaragd.

French highlights: 2007 Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is a full-bodied white, alternately dry, fruity and floral.  And on the more affordable end, Mouton Cadet’s 2008 Bordeaux Blanc is a smooth, citrusy Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet blend.

Schramsberg has long been a local favorite for their sparkling wines in particular: it was delightful to sip their 2001 Reserve Brut with cherry notes, and their ‘06 J. Davies Cabernet Sauvignon, with Malbec, Merlot and Petit Verdot blended in.

A Cabernet Sauvignon highlight was Louis M. Martini’s velvety, rich 2005 Monte Rosso Vineyard Cab, available during the VIP tasting only.

4/29 – WINES OF CHILE - On a weekday afternoon, I visited a trade tasting held here and in Chicago. It was an education on the range in Chilean wines, which I certainly have been drinking more of in recent years. Similar to Portugal, which I wrote about last issue, the quality to affordability ratio is strong. Many wines I tried were $6-13 a bottle, ideal in these tight times. In tasting (and spitting) dozens, a few that rose to the forefront initially:

• Terra Andina – loved the whole line, from fruity, vanilla (with hint of smoke) Chardonnay, to berry, tobacco, tannin-rich ‘08 Carmenere; Andina isn’t readily available but they just got distribution in So. Cal. K&L Wines so should make their way here soon
• Lapostolle – French owners (who also own Grand Marnier) but Chilean-grown; floral/citrus ‘09 Casa Sauvignon Blanc may have been my favorite, but appreciated ‘07 Cuvee Alexandre Chardonnay and ‘08 Carmenere
•  ‘06 Carmen Reserva Carmenere/Cabernet Sauvignon – berry, earth, hint of spice
• Aliwen ‘09 Sauvignon Blanc – Affordable ($10 or less), crisp, Summery

WHISKIES OF THE WORLD – MARCH 27

• Whiskies of the World (aka WoW)- Smaller in scope and selection than Whiskyfest, I expected a little more focus and ease at this event in the Hotel Nikko. It ended up being obnoxiously over-crowded, with only slightly more breathing room during the VIP hour.

Bagpipes from Bushmills Pipe & Drum Band were a nice touch – they came through every hour or so. But the body-to-body mayhem was less appealing. Maybe a bigger venue next time? There were similar greats in the whisk(e)y world here as at classier Whiskyfest, but not necessarily with their greater-aged spirits. There was a nice focus on small batch distillers, like Edradour, who weren’t at the last Whiskyfest. For your money, I’d still recommend Whiskyfest, but I’m glad I was able to attend WoW.

The most fascinating hour came with the Craft Panel Discussion at 9pm, a prime board led by Ralph Erenzo of Hudson Valley, NY’s, Tuthilltown Spirits, Scott Bush of Templeton Rye in Western Iowa, Brian Ellison of Death’s Door outside of Madison, WI, and the one-and-only Fritz Maytag of our own Anchor Steam. Each shared the history of their companies, formed from the ground up – true American-ingenuity stories. It was especially inspiring hearing from Mr. Maytag, with his delightfully crusty sense of humor. He’s really a grandfather of the new wave of craft distilling in the US, leading the way in beer in the ’70’s, then spirits a good 20 years ago, long before craft distilling techniques became a highly-valued commodity again.

In a side by side tasting from these masters, Tuthilltown’s whiskey is a spicy rye with a sticky, musky smell and notes of vanilla, mustard and honey. Templeton’s 2006 whiskey is influenced by Bush’s great grandfather, a Templeton distiller during Prohibition. It’s a strong, brown sugar-tinged rye at 95% rye/5% barley grains (non-craft ryes are usually around 51% rye, which is not as complicated to produce). Death’s Door white whiskey is about the best example of this young, robust spirit experiencing a resurgence. Made from malted barley and organic red winter wheat, it’s double distilled, aged for less than 72 hours (to secure the whiskey moniker) and is clean, smooth,  grainy, sweet, strong.  Anchor Steam’s Old Potrero 18th Century-style whiskey is a favorite stocked in my home for some time. Fiery on the nose, it is grassy, complex and singeing on the palate.

As far as tasting in the main ballroom, many of the greats were there, like Glenmorangie, but here are a few tastes that were new or noteworthy to me this time around:

• Dalmore – I was able to try more scotches in the Dalmore line, from a new 18 year expression (spice, coffee, chocolate notes) to a Gran Reserva (aged from 10-15 years) with dried fruit, chocolate and citrus accents.  King Alexander III stood out with layers of sherry, citrus and vanilla… an expertly blended mix of different aged malts.

• Prichards – Rum from… Tennessee? You did hear right, and it’s a good time. But my kicks were had with their Double-Barrel Bourbon. This is a medium-bodied, smooth Tennessee whiskey and I imagine it makes a pretty fine Manhattan.

• Corsair – I like Corsair’s (a small Kentucky craft distiller) whiskeys, but was more interested in their Pumpkin Spice Moonshine, a white whiskey with the spirit of a pumpkin ale, and their intriguing RED Absinthe: floral fennel notes with a pinkish hue from hibiscus.

• Dry Fly – Dry Fly Single Malt Whiskey is from a fairly new (2007) distillery in Spokane, WA, also making gin and vodka. It is a 100% wheat whiskey, spicy for merely 80 proof, but smooth, with sweet peach notes. The wheat aspect comes through almost like cinnamon toast.

• Bruichladdich Organic – Available for tasting during the VIP hour only, it was a pleasure to sip what they’re labeling as “the world’s first organic Islay” scotch, a 2003 vintage, creamy but hot, with hints of currant and flowers.

• Tomintoul 31 Years Reserve – Another VIP hour tasting, their line is a delight, while the 31 year is a slightly sweet, smooth scotch.

NON-WHISKEY

•  Bend Distillery – I’ve been itching to tell you about Bend Distillery, pleased to see them at WoW. Though they make award-winning vodka and gin in Bend, OR, they also have two special brands I can’t get enough of: Cofia is a lush blend of roasted hazelnuts and fresh-brewed coffee in vodka. It’s not sweet but aromatic and dark. The other stand-out is Mazama-infused Pepper Vodka. Trust me and try and get your hands on this one.  Named after a volcano that erupted to become Crater Lake, it is blend of six different sweet and hot peppers. Heat is abundant and its redolent of fresh pepper skins. It’s smashing on its own, even though recommended in cocktails or for cooking.

• Germain-Robin – These brandies are gorgeous and a Northern California (Ukiah) treasure. Trying the line was a pleasure, from cigar-friendly Old Havana to their elegant grappas. Take note of the lush Craft-Method Brandy XO.

• St. George Spirits – My beloved St. George (which is also Hangar One) lines my home bar with their incomparable Absinthe and Agua Azul Reposado. I always enjoy trying anything they make and a seasonal Spiced Pear Vodka is clean but laden with creamy clove.

*More on my non-whiskey picks from WoW in SF Bay Guardian article.

TOP TASTES IN DRINK

Wine & sparkling wine cocktails at brand new Prohibition Speakeasy in Healdsburg

SPIRITS

•  Classic & Vintage Roadshow rolled into SF the first week of March with an industry tasting lunch at Nopa on March 3. This was an ideal tasting event as there were a handful of small batch vendors of highest quality. No wading through a sea of mediocrity to find a gem or two. This was a a selection of hand-picked, boutique distillers offering superb product.

There’s the awesome Bitter Truth, a dynamic German duo (Stephan Berg and Alexander Hauck) making some of the best bitters in existence. Not only are they the only ones making Celery Bitters, their brand new Creole Bitters, a tribute to classic New Orleans-style bitters, is beautifully labeled with spice, floral and cardamom notes. They take it into the stratosphere with Jerry Thomas Bitters in tribute to the bartender who exemplified the craft in full form back in the 1800’s. Tweaked from the Professor’s own recipe, these bitters taste good on their own, punching bitter, spiced and fruity notes hard.

I’m quite taken with Death’s Door Spirits, a small batch distiller with impeccable, classic packaging and gracious distiller, Brian Ellison,  along with Nick Quiat, at the helm. Reflecting the terroir and ingredients of their Washington Island, WI, locale, their vodka, gorgeous gin and awesome white whiskey are made from organic, local Wisconsin wheat in a way that promotes small scale farming. All three are stand-outs in recent years.

An Italian representative flew out for Averna products, like Citrus Sambuca, a sticky sweet but bold combo of citrus and anise. Cognac, France, was also ‘in the house’ with lush, floral gins from G’Vine like Florasion (which makes a fab Gin & Tonic, by the way) and the especially lush Nouasion, which tastes lovely all by itself. Fazenda Mae de Ouro Cachaca stood out with its smooth but peppery, citrus notes… an above average, small batch cachaca. I’ve already happily been exposed to Ransom Old Tom Gin from a small farm in Sheridan, Oregon, thanks to Neyah White at Nopa introducing it to me in his cocktails, but it was nice to taste it straight here. Check out the mention of it in Saveur magazine’s current Gin article by expert, Dave Wondrich. Award-winning, unusual Suprema Grappas are a pleasure, particularly the soft Refosco with its seductive, long finish.

• Bushmill’s Irish Whiskey – March 12 was a dream start to St. Patty’s Day week: an industry-only Irish breakfast at Lefty O’ Doul’s with Bushmill’s Master Distiller, Colum Egan. Colum exemplified the charm and ease of an Irish chum walking you through his favorite spirits over breakfast, albiet one who makes what you’re drinking. Two hours later, full of corned beef hash and Irish coffees, we’d tasted the entire line from Original and Black Bush whiskeys, to the 10, 16 and 21 year. The 21 year, aged in Oloroso sherry, bourbon-seasoned and Madeira casks, haunted me with raisin notes, spicy malt and smooth dry fruit. My other favorite was the 1608 Anniversary Edition, layered with sweetness, leather, toasted nuts, dark toffee. As Egan described it, Bushmills is a line meant for casual, friendly drinking… not elitist or froufrou. All this is true, yet the aged whiskeys maintained a smooth elegance that keeps up with some of the better whiskeys out there.

WINE

•  Prohibition Speakeasy is the first of its kind up in Wine Country: a speakeasy with clandestine phone booth entrance through a Healdsburg shop selling hand-picked accouterments amidst vintage telephones and film cameras. Delightful owners, Richard and Kae Rosenberg, a retired film producer and runway model/novelist respectively, also own nearby Grape Leaf Inn. Their guest-only, secret cellar at the inn has been so successful, it inspired them to open the speakeasy-style bar, infused with Richard’s grandfather’s legacy running an actual speakeasy during Prohibition.

Though I long for Sonoma County to have some fine classic cocktail bars, this won’t quite be it as they don’t have a hard liquor license. Staying true to wine country, it’s wines here, including many small, acclaimed local wineries, like Williams-Selyem, plus a few ales and beers (SF’s own Speakeasy ales, naturally).

Thankfully, they have some sparkling wine cocktails on the menu to mix things up, with playful names like Bogart Breeze and The Flapper. The decor inside is not as vintage as I anticipated, more a comfortable, modern wine bar with classic touches, like a flat screen playing Cagney films and an actual Tommy Gun displayed behind the bar. Convivial and packed (mostly standing room) only three days into opening, I suspect this will be a big a hit in downtown Healdsburg, especially with the gracious warmth of its owners behind it.

•  Disclaimer: this recommend does not fall into fine wines but was an ideal partner to Currywurst and Chicken Cherry sausages ($6 each) from Rosamunde in the Mission. They had a cheap ($5) Napa Marsanne out of a barrel. I expected basic house wine but was surprised with crisp but buttery layers of this white, reminiscent of a Chardonnay. House wine like this, I can do… it actually brought out layers in the Currywurst.

• At a winemaker dinner at The Moss Room, a stunning restaurant with moss-laced wall and fish pond inside the Academy of Sciences, the winemaker (Christian himself) from Domaine Christian Moreau made an appearance, though I wish he had interacted with guests or did a brief talk on his wines. It was a pleasingly bold move to have four chablis wines for each course, and a happy education comparing the nuances of each as we progressed through a four-course seafood dinner.

The first 2007 Chablis had an earthy, mushroom crispness that married well with beech mushrooms and Kombu Marinted Ocean Trout. An ‘07 Chablis 1er Cru “Vaillon” had a creamy tinge to its acidity… ideal with Dungeness Crab Capellini mixed with sea urchin and Meyer lemon. We moved on to a brightly acidic ‘07 Chablis Grand Cru “Les Clos de Hospices”, paired with Baked Sablefish (loved crispy skin and buttery folds of white fish giving way at the touch of my fork), with fava bean shoots, celery root, grapefruit shallot gremolata. Finishing with Cowgirl Creamery’s famed “Mt. Tam” cheese, which I’ve had (and loved) many a time, the natural sweetness of baked apple and walnut levian toast balanced the cheese and an ‘05 Chablis Grand Cru “Valmur”, which smelled distinctly of cheese itself. Though the nose was pungent, its taste was more a buttery mix of citrus and baked pear.

I’m not sure if the whole experience was worth $95 compared to other meals I’ve had for similar cost (or less) – especially without any interaction from the visiting winemaker (doesn’t fit with the moniker of “winemaker’s dinner”), but the Moss Room is a one-of-a-kind setting worth visiting.

Top Tastes in DRINK

I'm excited to return to Oakland's new Era Art Bar & Lounge (www.oaklandera.com) - a photo from my sneak peek pre-opening

Here’s two brand new openings I’d recommend for sipping a glass of vino:

• Brave 6th Street and duck into Passion Cafe, a spacious French bistro with rooftop garden and multi-room space so cool, it’s a pleasure to linger over a glass.

• I’ve been a big fan of Kitchenette’s fabulous food since they opened… so it’s an easy win to be able to get it in greater variety at the Mission’s new wine bar, Heart. A crisp, minimalist space and startling photography set the tone for the playfulness that awaits when French wines are served in Mason jars (with these kind of tasting descriptions: “Like licking a skeleton with a pineapple in your mouth.”)

WINE

• At the dream of a pig feast that is Oliveto’s Whole Hog Dinners, I couldn’t decide which wine I loved best with all that pig… each one cut the fat beautifully, never overpowered, but stood its ground. There’s the refreshing acidity of an ‘06 Garlider Sylvaner from Alto Adige. Two more Italian beauties on the red side: 2005 Grifalco Aglianico del Vulture (dark red cherry and herbal notes) or the subtle plum and earthiness of a ‘05 Valmaggione Nebbiolo d’Alba. I finished fine with a ‘07 Cuvee Classique Domaine Monpertuis Chateaneuf-du-Pape: 70% Grenache, layered with dark fruit, dried herbs, spice, even leather notes.

• Bagrationi Sparkling Brut is from Georgia… a tiny country situated on the edge of Eastern Europe and Western Asia (next to Albania). For a reasonable $13.99, it’s a good value, from hand-picked grapes, refreshing, with light citrus and honeydew notes.

BEER

A few of my favorites from SF Beer Week’s Opening Gala at Yerba Buena:

• My love for spirits first and foremost clearly plays into my top taste from Beer Week: Abacus, a bourbon barrel-aged barleywine (13% ABV) that has aroma and tastes of bourbon (caramel, vanilla, oak). Thank you, Paso Robles’ Firestone Walker. They also deliver a bright Union Jack IPA, but it’s Abacus that wowed me. I’m not alone – demand for this barelywine has been such that they are purported to finally bottle it for the first time later this year.

•  Devil’s Canyon makes some fine beers, but its their awesome Root Beer I fell madly in love with. Small batch and organic, its touch of sweet comes from organic cane sugar, agave nectar and California honey. Rich, rooty, refreshing.

•  Linden Street Brewery’s owner, Adam Lamoreaux, is such a cool guy and one man show at Oakland’s newest brewery, making “Old California style” lagers like a roasty, dark Burning Oak Lager.

•  Schmaltz Brewing Company – I was quite impressed with the fine taste of Albino Python, a white lager brewed with orange peel, ginger, fennel. My other fave is Jewbelation Bar Mitzvah, their 13th anniversary ale brewed with 13 malts, hops and 13% alcohol. These guys are doing it right.

•  North Coast Brewing Co.’s Brother Thelonious Belgian-style abbey ale is robust and memorable (9.3% ABV). It doesn’t hurt that jazz genius Monk himself is the mascot.

SPIRITS

•  Stranahan’s Colorado Whiskey- Far from a traditional whiskey, the unusual taste of Stranahan’s intrigued my palate with smooth wood and a range of tastes from caramel and spice to tobacco and leather. Here’s Malt Advocate’s publisher, John Hansell’s, great review.

• You’ll rarely see me go for flavored rums, vodkas (or vodka in general), etc… John Meisler, Don Q’s ambassador, gave quite the rum education and tasting on 2/2 at Yoshi’s for an industry event. Somewhere in the middle of side-by-side tastings of Don Q next to popular rums (of which I won’t name names) which lacked the flavor of Don Q (from Gold to a Grand Anejo), I kept burying my nose in a glass of Don Q CoCo, a rum flavored with natural coconut oils. I’d never order it but the fresh scent of coconut oil transported me immediately to some island beach, relaxed and tan, far from my seat on a Winter afternoon.

SAKE

• The Mission’s new izakaya extraordinaire, Nombe, has an admirable selection of sakes, including flights to further your education. Out of a $15 Akita flight, the two that stood out the most were an acidic but balanced Manabito Kimoto Junmai Ginjo and elegant, chilled Akitabare Koshiki Junzukuri.

This issue’s Top Tastes in DRINK

“Alcohol may be man’s worst enemy, but the Bible says love your enemy.” - Frank Sinatra

COCKTAILS

It’s a special night (10/21) at Cantina (a worthy destination any night) when New York City’s Joaquin Simo, of Death & Co, and Toby Moloney (formerly of Milk & Honey, now running culinary cocktail bars around the country, including Chicago’s one-and-only Violet Hour) guest bartend. All tattoos and friendliness, these guys are cool – and awe-inspiringly adept behind the bar (behold the energy with which Toby shakes a cocktail or the deft discreetness dealt in Joaquin’s lighting of citrus peel). I put full reign in their hands and they delivered every time. Joaquin did his own variation of a bourbon cocktail using Old Overholt Rye instead with Aperol, Peychaud’s bitters, Yellow Chartreuse. Smooth, balanced, sexy. I truly loved his Oaxacan Old Fashioned, a Death & Co staple  with El Tesoro Reposado tequila, a smoky tinge from Los Amantes Joven mezcal, amber agave nectar and Angostura bitters. Toby stopped the show using one of my favorites, Zacapa Rum, with Green Chartruese, lemon, egg white, Angostura, dash of Peychaud’s on top and a Campari rinse. Hello!

WINE

• A New Zealand 2006 Rippon Riesling paired just right with seafood courses at Fleur de Lys: floral and crisp with a slightly viscous texture, it maintains a proper balance of sweet and dry.

•  Wine & Spirits Top 100 event was a swank affair, jazz band, striking atrium, tasty bites from some of SF’s best restaurants and eateries… I couldn’t begin to pick a best out of 100 award-winning beauties from around the world. There was quite a line-up of champagnes and sparklers, wines from Portugal, Chile, Greece, and, of course, Italy, France, California. I immediately took to Australian Penfolds Shiraz and Riesling, Chilean Concha y Toro’s Sauvignon Blanc and Carmenere, a 2005 Joseph Drouhin Puligny-Montrachet, and a 2000 Vilmart Champagne Brut Coeur de Cuvee Premier Cru.

SPIRITS

My first Whiskyfest was a memorable experience. Only held in Chicago, New York and SF annually, it’s a sea of whiskies from around the globe in SF Marriott ballrooms, with distillers and staff from various countries flying out to serve you unlimited tastes (oh, so dangerous). Yes, you must pace yourself, fill up on the buffet of roast beef, pastas and such, and plan strategically from the long list of vendors. Though pricey ($110 a ticket or $150 for VIP hour), out the many events I attend in a year, I find this is one worth saving up for, particularly if you love the brown spirit.

One of the joys of the night was Steve Beal’s Classic Malts class (all classes included with ticket price – line up a little early to secure a seat). Graciously leading us through various regions of Scotland, Steve used photos and stories of the history and production of some key scotches (including distiller’s editions of Glenkinchie, Dalwhinnie, Oban, Lagavulin, Cragganmore, Talisker)… with little glasses of each as we journeyed along.

It is impossible to name favorites so I will list at least a few highlights beyond the more-affordable greats like Oban, multiple years of Caol Ila, and ever-reliable Lagavulin (I enjoyed trying the Distiller’s Edition: super peaty, with notes of brine, sherry wood). Highland Park’s dark 30-year wowed… but the boozy 25-year was not too shabby either. Glenrothes 1975 was a bright blend of fruit and spice, while the 1979 equally delighted. I’d happily imbibe Pappy Van Winkle’s smooth 23 and 20 year bourbons again. Parker’s Heritage 27 year is brilliant – so much going on. See if Malt Advocate’s description doesn’t make you salivate.

And this is just for starters… get thee to next year’s Whiskyfest.